Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:56 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
2. 07:34 AM - Re: Re: Bending Fuse Side Skins (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
3. 07:53 AM - Re: Re: Canopy Question / Observation (Les Kearney)
4. 08:20 AM - Re: Bending Fuse Side Skins (Paul Ohman)
5. 08:21 AM - Re: Dark Orange RV-10 (RobHickman@aol.com)
6. 08:31 AM - Re: Dark Orange RV-10 (RobHickman@aol.com)
7. 09:20 AM - Re: Re: Canopy Question / Observation (John Gonzalez)
8. 01:01 PM - AFS Manifold transducer & Lightspeed Ignition Manifold p (Michael Wellenzohn)
9. 01:20 PM - EA10 electric aileron trim (Ralph E. Capen)
10. 01:24 PM - Re: AFS Manifold transducer & Lightspeed Ignition Manifold p (Ralph E. Capen)
11. 01:44 PM - Re: EA10 electric aileron trim (Tim Olson)
12. 01:56 PM - Re: seat belt counter sink? (jayb)
13. 02:21 PM - Re: EA10 electric aileron trim (Ralph E. Capen)
14. 05:44 PM - Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question (Kelly McMullen)
15. 05:58 PM - Re: Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question (Deems Davis)
16. 06:02 PM - Re: AFS Manifold transducer & Lightspeed Ignition Manifold p (orchidman)
17. 06:14 PM - Re: Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question (Bob Leffler)
18. 06:35 PM - Re: AFS Manifold transducer & Lightspeed Ignition Manifold p (jim@CombsFive.Com)
19. 07:51 PM - Re: Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question (Jim Berry)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking |
My opinion on this is that, like everything else, $$ drives a fix or lack thereof.
As long as Van's isn't incurring additional costs in support, PR, or hard
dollars, there is no incentive to deal with it. This is the same as the nose
wheel and other issues. The first time someone contacts VISA and requests
a charge reversal because of a defective product that the vendor won't fix they
$might$ look at addressing the problem. Or they might fix the problem by withholding
any future sales to the individual leaving them with a worthless partial
kit.
My $0.02
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Rivet Leaking
Going back to that prior discussion about fuel tanks
I remember someone said they hadn't heard much about
any QB tanks leaking, and that it was rare. I would
like to point out that this thread has shown the reason
that my personal opinion leans towards building my
own tanks. It hasn't been very publicized before in
this amount on the list, but I've talked to many many
RV-10 builders with QB tanks that have had these problems.
I know, repetition on riveting wings isn't fun, but they
build fast, and when you're done you will know that you
did a good job prosealing. I don't understand WHY the
QB tanks seem to have such an issue....my only guess is
that to save costs they go as light on sealant as
possible. It's a common enough problem though that I
really think the company should re-evaluate the instruction
given to the offshore builders and encourage a little
more attention paid to making the tanks leak free.
The sad part is, for many builders they want to paint
before flying. I liked it that way, myself. But giving
your tanks a chance to be thoroughly leak tested may
be a good reason to delay painting on at least the wings
of your QB kit, if you're trying to choose when to paint.
Luckily most rivet leaks will be on the bottom side
of the wing.
It would be interesting to take a tally of how many QB
wings came with leaks, and then forward the numbers
to Van's. Perhaps they don't have a clue the number is
so high, but compiling it here may provide incentive to
them to do a bit more training over there.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Bending Fuse Side Skins |
I also recently ran across my old section 29 clamping block (cut from
oak). Same deal, free to anybody that needs/wants it, contact me
offline and pick up the tab for shipping.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Question / Observation |
Hi
I have been late in posting this....
I spoke to Ken Scott of Vans on Tuesday who advised that the door sill
should be no thinner than 1/8" (perhaps slightly thinner is okay). He also
advised that a 3/32" gap between the canopy joggle and mid fuse skin at the
door frame was acceptable.
It is good to have this info so now I know that standard to work with...
Cheers
Les
#40643 - some assembly required.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
Sent: May-04-09 11:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Canopy Question / Observation
Les,
3/16 is about where mine is. I didn't want to make the door sill that much
thinner...
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242671#242671
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Bending Fuse Side Skins |
Mike,
Thanks for the phone call. Here is my address/phone
2410 Milton Way Unit F
Milton WA 98354
(253)-517-3491
Paul
--------
Paul Ohman
40810
slow build fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243031#243031
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Dark Orange RV-10 |
That was it, thanks.
My RV-10 goes into the paint shop tomorrow and we are still working on th
e
final color scheme.
Rob Hickman
N402RH Painted for OSH
**************Big savings on Dell=99s most popular laptops. Now star
ting at
$449!
=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663472%3B36502367%3Bg)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Dark Orange RV-10 |
_http://flightaware.com/photos/view/toptail/116892-4a89300b1260aace3c5f171
13
a535348658b14aa;tail=N939DM;o=0_
(http://flightaware.com/photos/view/toptail/116892-4a89300b1260aace3c5f171
13a535348658b14aa;tail=N939DM;o=0)
Was it already repainted white and gray?
Rob Hickman
N402RH
**************Big savings on Dell=99s most popular laptops. Now star
ting at
$449!
=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663472%3B36502367%3Bg)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Question / Observation |
As stated before the important point is that there is enough material for t
he pop rivets to hang onto and that the intersection with the rear aluminum
on the top mates correctly.
One more thing to remember is that the thinner you make the door sill fiber
glass=2C notice that it tapers inward toward the part that is on the outsid
e of the sill(expososed side). So the more you thin it=2C the further insid
e the sill sits inside the aluminum fuse opening which then affect the way
the doors interface with the structures when the door is closed.
John 409
> From: kearney@shaw.ca
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Canopy Question / Observation
> Date: Thu=2C 7 May 2009 08:51:11 -0600
>
>
> Hi
>
> I have been late in posting this....
>
> I spoke to Ken Scott of Vans on Tuesday who advised that the door sill
> should be no thinner than 1/8" (perhaps slightly thinner is okay). He als
o
> advised that a 3/32" gap between the canopy joggle and mid fuse skin at t
he
> door frame was acceptable.
>
> It is good to have this info so now I know that standard to work with...
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643 - some assembly required.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
> Sent: May-04-09 11:01 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Canopy Question / Observation
>
>
> Les=2C
>
> 3/16 is about where mine is. I didn't want to make the door sill that muc
h
> thinner...
>
> Lenny
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242671#242671
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | AFS Manifold transducer & Lightspeed Ignition Manifold p |
Hello
I am wondering how those of you, who use the LSE Plasma ignition and the AFS Engine
monitor interconnected the manifold tubes. Is there a Y-connector available
that allows to root one pipe to the LSE and the other to the AF Manifold transducer
from the firewall tube fitting.
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243058#243058
Message 9
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| Subject: | EA10 electric aileron trim |
Anyone done this? Care to share your experiences? Care to share your
results?
I would like to find out how different their system on the pushrod is from
the one I designed for my 6A. Maybe theirs is better - either way, trying
to figure it out for my second offense.....
Ralph
RV6A N822AR @ N06 still flying off the hours - now undergoing builders
withdrawl......
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: AFS Manifold transducer & Lightspeed Ignition Manifold |
p
I had a similar issue for my 6A - I used one of the ports of Vans manifold
and doubled it off for my AFS3400 and the LASAR ignition
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 4:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: AFS Manifold transducer & Lightspeed Ignition Manifold p
> <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
>
> Hello
> I am wondering how those of you, who use the LSE Plasma ignition and the
> AFS Engine monitor interconnected the manifold tubes. Is there a
> Y-connector available that allows to root one pipe to the LSE and the
> other to the AF Manifold transducer from the firewall tube fitting.
>
> Cheers
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243058#243058
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: EA10 electric aileron trim |
Do you mean the standard Van's RV-10 Electric Aileron Trim,
like Section OP-38 in the plans? If so, it seems to work
real well...better than I figured it would. The fuel
imbalance, (and in my case the pilot vs. wife imbalance)
can be pretty significant, so I find I use it on most of
the X/C trips. No real complaints.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> Anyone done this? Care to share your experiences? Care to share your
> results?
>
> I would like to find out how different their system on the pushrod is
> from the one I designed for my 6A. Maybe theirs is better - either way,
> trying to figure it out for my second offense.....
>
> Ralph
> RV6A N822AR @ N06 still flying off the hours - now undergoing builders
> withdrawl......
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: seat belt counter sink? |
I used the countersink yesterday and it's DULL. Not sure if these things can be
sharpened???
I inherited an identical 5/16" countersink from a former -10 builder and it worked
great. I'll send both of them on to the next guy. The new one has blue marker
on the bottom.
The list is: Jay - Linn Walters - Bob Leffler - Mike Schulz - Lew
Mike - Please email me your address offline and I'll add you to the list.
Regards,
Jay
Do not archive
mds4878 wrote:
> Please put me on the list.
> Mike Schulz
> #40447
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243067#243067
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: EA10 electric aileron trim |
I don't have OP-38 - are they on your RV-10 site?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 4:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: EA10 electric aileron trim
>
> Do you mean the standard Van's RV-10 Electric Aileron Trim,
> like Section OP-38 in the plans? If so, it seems to work
> real well...better than I figured it would. The fuel
> imbalance, (and in my case the pilot vs. wife imbalance)
> can be pretty significant, so I find I use it on most of
> the X/C trips. No real complaints.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>>
>> Anyone done this? Care to share your experiences? Care to share your
>> results?
>>
>> I would like to find out how different their system on the pushrod is
>> from the one I designed for my 6A. Maybe theirs is better - either way,
>> trying to figure it out for my second offense.....
>>
>> Ralph
>> RV6A N822AR @ N06 still flying off the hours - now undergoing builders
>> withdrawl......
>>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question |
"Step 3: Rivet both F-1073 Side Skins to the Stiffeners, frames and
bulkheads. Start riveting at the top of the skins (don't river the
F-1032 Longerons). *then work down and around the bottom radius of the
skins*."
Looking for technique recommendations for riveting the bottom radius
of each frame/bulkhead. I've back riveted all the flat part of the
side skins. Looks like either conventional flush rivet set or back
rivet might work but will be tricky to stay dead on the rivet and not
ding the skin.
Kelly
40866
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question |
Kelly, I used some padding, on each side and under to position the
tailcone so that those rivet lines would be flat to the table and the
large rivet plate positioned underneath them, then used the back rivet
set to pound them, worked pretty good for me.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> "Step 3: Rivet both F-1073 Side Skins to the Stiffeners, frames and
> bulkheads. Start riveting at the top of the skins (don't river the
> F-1032 Longerons). *then work down and around the bottom radius of the
> skins*."
>
>
> Looking for technique recommendations for riveting the bottom radius
> of each frame/bulkhead. I've back riveted all the flat part of the
> side skins. Looks like either conventional flush rivet set or back
> rivet might work but will be tricky to stay dead on the rivet and not
> ding the skin.
>
> Kelly
> 40866
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: AFS Manifold transducer & Lightspeed Ignition Manifold |
p
I forget what the ID is on the yellow tubing that comes with the LS kit but get
a barb T from Aircraft Spruce for that size. Call Rob at AFS and they can send
you a replacement fitting for the inside of the bulkhead fitting from Vans.
You then use the yellow tubing from the bulkhead to the T and from the T to
the LS. The use another short piece from the T perhaps 1/2" and push it inside
some tygon tubing. You will use something like the 1/8" ID tygon tubing and
slip it over the yellow tubing and together push it onto the 3rd T fitting.
The other end goes to the AFS manafold transducer.
Hope the attached picture helps.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Final Finishing - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243089#243089
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_3075_100.jpg
Message 17
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| Subject: | Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question |
I just used a standard flush rivet set.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 8:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question
"Step 3: Rivet both F-1073 Side Skins to the Stiffeners, frames and
bulkheads. Start riveting at the top of the skins (don't river the
F-1032 Longerons). *then work down and around the bottom radius of the
skins*."
Looking for technique recommendations for riveting the bottom radius
of each frame/bulkhead. I've back riveted all the flat part of the
side skins. Looks like either conventional flush rivet set or back
rivet might work but will be tricky to stay dead on the rivet and not
ding the skin.
Kelly
40866
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: AFS Manifold transducer & Lightspeed Ignition Manifold |
p
I picked up a part at the local auto parts store. Standard vacuum
tubing universal Y part.
Jim Combs
N312F - 60+ hours!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wellenzohn"
<rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Hello
I
am wondering how those of you, who use the LSE Plasma ignition and the
AFS Engine monitor interconnected the manifold tubes. Is there a
Y-connector available that allows to root one pipe to the LSE and the
other to the AF Manifold transducer from the firewall tube fitting.
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder
(engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this
topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243058#243058
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Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question |
Kelly,
I did the same as Deem's. With a couple of old pillows I was able to prop the tail
cone so the the section being riveted was always flat on the back rivet plate.
When you get to the upper aft tail cone skin, I would suggest you back rivet
the stiffeners to the skin before you cleco the skin to the bulkheads. Just
leave the rivets out temporarily where the stiffener crosses the bulkheads.
It is much easier to do the top skin with everything flat on your bench, than
it is to do it working inside the cone. With a little flexing of the stiffeners,
it was no problem getting them and the skin positioned on the bulkheads. I
had zero smiley's on my tail cone. I love back riveting.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243103#243103
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