Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:36 AM - Re: Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question (Perry, Phil)
2. 11:02 AM - Air vent question (Bob Leffler)
3. 11:54 AM - Re: Air vent question (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
4. 12:43 PM - Re: Air vent question (Patrick Thyssen)
5. 02:09 PM - RV10 Tail Kit for Sale (Larry Mersek)
6. 02:44 PM - Re: AFS Manifold transducer & Lightspeed Ignition Manifold p (Michael Wellenzohn)
7. 03:52 PM - tire tubes (Eric_Kallio)
8. 04:34 PM - Re: tire tubes (David McNeill)
9. 07:27 PM - Re: Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question |
I back riveted them against a bucking bar - not a back rivet plate.
I gave my highly unskilled wife the bucking bar and asked her to hold it
tight against the skin and flush head. On the other side, I shot it
with a back rivet set.
Worked great and we didn't have to worry about rolling the entire
assembly around.
One word of caution on the back rivet technique for the bulkheads
though. Pay attention to where your retainer spring is located... The
retainer spring on the rivet gun is the right height and it will want to
hang on the bulk head. Qhen you pull the trigger, it'll cut into and
notch your bulkheads before you know it.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 7:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question
"Step 3: Rivet both F-1073 Side Skins to the Stiffeners, frames and
bulkheads. Start riveting at the top of the skins (don't river the
F-1032 Longerons). *then work down and around the bottom radius of the
skins*."
Looking for technique recommendations for riveting the bottom radius of
each frame/bulkhead. I've back riveted all the flat part of the side
skins. Looks like either conventional flush rivet set or back rivet
might work but will be tricky to stay dead on the rivet and not ding the
skin.
Kelly
40866
Message 2
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| Subject: | Air vent question |
For those that installed an overhead console with air vents:
What did you do with the standard rear seat vents? Are you happy with your
decision?
If you removed the vent and permanently close the opening or you left the
vent per plans , any regrets in doing so?
As you might surmise, I'm trying to decide what to do myself and am looking
for other opinions and data points to help me make a decision. At the
moment, I'm leaning towards removing the vent and permanently closing the
opening. I think that the overhead vent will be able to deliver ample air
via two new naca vents in the tailcone. I would also think this would
minimize the chance for rain and other objects to come in through the vents.
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
mykitlog.com/rleffler
Message 3
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| Subject: | Air vent question |
Bob,
I removed the internal hinging mechanism, glassed them over on the
outside and had Abby make my interior side panels without the notch. No
regrets at all! Plenty of air from the OH vents, in fact, I think that
2 NACA vents feeding the overhead is actually overkill.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 1:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Air vent question
For those that installed an overhead console with air vents:
What did you do with the standard rear seat vents? Are you happy with
your decision?
If you removed the vent and permanently close the opening or you left
the vent per plans , any regrets in doing so?
As you might surmise, I'm trying to decide what to do myself and am
looking for other opinions and data points to help me make a decision.
At the moment, I'm leaning towards removing the vent and permanently
closing the opening. I think that the overhead vent will be able to
deliver ample air via two new naca vents in the tailcone. I would also
think this would minimize the chance for rain and other objects to come
in through the vents.
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
mykitlog.com/rleffler
Message 4
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| Subject: | Air vent question |
I kept mine just because they were already there and sometime it good to ge
t air from more then one directions.Just like dthe forward vents. The two s
coops on side produce a lot of air thats for sure. Overhead has a lot of ai
r and lots of leaks that has to be addressed in the future.
imhop
Patrick Thyssen
hunk=C2- is flying.
--- On Fri, 5/8/09, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <bob.condrey@baesystems.com> wrot
e:
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Air vent question
=0A=0A=0A =0A =0A=0A =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ABob, =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0AI rem
oved the internal hinging mechanism,=0Aglassed them over on the outside and
had Abby make my interior side panels=0Awithout the notch.=C2- No regret
s at all!=C2- Plenty of air from the OH vents, in=0Afact, I think that 2
NACA vents feeding the overhead is actually overkill.=C2- =0A=0A =C2-
=0A=0ABob =0A=0AN442PM (flying) =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0AFrom:=0Aowner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com=0A[mailto:owner-rv10-list-s
erver@matronics.com] On=0ABehalf Of Bob Leffler
=0ASent: Friday, May 08, 2009 1:01 PM
=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com
=0ASubject: RV10-List: Air vent=0Aquestion =0A=0A=0A=0A =C2- =0A=0AFor=0A
those that installed an overhead console with air vents: =0A=0A =C2- =0A
=0AWhat=0Adid you do with the standard rear seat vents?=C2- Are you happy
with your=0Adecision? =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0AIf=0Ayou removed the vent and pe
rmanently close the opening or you left the vent per=0Aplans , any regrets
in doing so? =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0AAs=0Ayou might surmise, I=99m trying
to decide what to do myself and am looking=0Afor other opinions and data p
oints to help me make a decision.=C2-=C2- At=0Athe moment, I=99m
leaning towards removing the vent and permanently closing=0Athe opening.=C2
-=C2- I think that the overhead vent will be able to deliver=0Aample ai
r via two new naca vents in the tailcone.=C2- I would also think this=0Aw
ould minimize the chance for rain and other objects to come in through the
=0Avents. =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0AThanks, =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0ABob =0A=0A#40684
=0A=0Amykitlog.com/rleffler =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0A =C2- =0A
=0A =C2- =C2-http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.
matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution =C2- =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A
Message 5
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| Subject: | RV10 Tail Kit for Sale |
I'm posting this for a local RV-6 pilot who is unable to complete his
RV10 project. The project is located at Calaveras Airport San Andreas,
CA. (KCPU)
--Larry Mersek
RV-6, flying
RV10 Tail Kit for sale. Vertical and rudder are built. The horizontal
is drilled to fit, dimpled, countersunk, and has been clecoed together
before. It is ready for primer and priced at $2500. Marc at (209)
609-1947. fieldbaren@volcano.net
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: AFS Manifold transducer & Lightspeed Ignition Manifold |
p
Thank you Gary that helped a lot.
Michael
DO NOT ARCHIVE
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243190#243190
Message 7
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In lieu of the tires and tubes that come from Vans in the finish kit I went to
Desser tires and purchased the tires I thought suited me best (Goodyear Flight
Custom II...but don't want to start a tire war). With the tires, I ordered tubes
that had a 90 bent stem and were about an inch long after the bend and face
outward. The main tire tubes of that kind aren't stocked and they sent me the
bent stem tubes with the long bend in them that are closer to 2-2.5 inches.
Are these going to fit inside the wheel pants with the longer (part number TR-87)
valve stems? I plan on modifying the wheel pants to allow for a spring loaded
opening that allows me to service the tire without removing the wheel pants
and hope these tubes will work since the guys at Desser gave me the new, and
much more expensive, tubes at the price of the ones I ordered.
If noone is sure can anyone get me the measurement from the outboard edge of their
tire to the wheel pant? Thanks.
Eric Kallio #518
Waiting on the finishing kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243196#243196
Message 8
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I believe that 15/600-6 are supplied with the kit and the Michelin leak
proof tubes are also supplied. I remove the front cover of the wheel pant to
service. Service is required only about 2 or 3 times per year; unlike my
Cardinal RG which required air about every two weeks because of the old
standard tube. I also found that I inadvertently ordered 600-6 retreads for
the 10 and they fit fine as well. What ever tire you install, check wheel
pant clearance after removal from the jacks and rolling forward and reverse
to align the wheel after jacking. Otherwise you might think that the
clearance is insufficient.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 3:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: tire tubes
In lieu of the tires and tubes that come from Vans in the finish kit I went
to Desser tires and purchased the tires I thought suited me best (Goodyear
Flight Custom II...but don't want to start a tire war). With the tires, I
ordered tubes that had a 90 bent stem and were about an inch long after the
bend and face outward. The main tire tubes of that kind aren't stocked and
they sent me the bent stem tubes with the long bend in them that are closer
to 2-2.5 inches. Are these going to fit inside the wheel pants with the
longer (part number TR-87) valve stems? I plan on modifying the wheel pants
to allow for a spring loaded opening that allows me to service the tire
without removing the wheel pants and hope these tubes will work since the
guys at Desser gave me the new, and much more expensive, tubes at the price
of the ones I ordered.
If noone is sure can anyone get me the measurement from the outboard edge of
their tire to the wheel pant? Thanks.
Eric Kallio #518
Waiting on the finishing kit
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243196#243196
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Tail Cone Page 10-20 Question |
Thanks for all the suggestions. Back riveted a couple, found it to be
difficult to get tail cone tight enough against back rivet plate, so
did the rest with flush set, and my able SO bucking. Came out fine.
Hangar at 103F this afternoon slowed progress a bit.
On Fri, May 8, 2009 at 8:32 AM, Perry, Phil <Phil.Perry@netapp.com> wrote:
>
> I back riveted them against a bucking bar - not a back rivet plate.
>
> I gave my highly unskilled wife the bucking bar and asked her to hold it
> tight against the skin and flush head. On the other side, I shot it
> with a back rivet set.
>
> Worked great and we didn't have to worry about rolling the entire
> assembly around.
>
> One word of caution on the back rivet technique for the bulkheads
> though. Pay attention to where your retainer spring is located... The
> retainer spring on the rivet gun is the right height and it will want to
> hang on the bulk head. Qhen you pull the trigger, it'll cut into and
> notch your bulkheads before you know it.
>
> Phil
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