Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:45 AM - Prepping fibreglass surfaces (Les Kearney)
2. 08:23 AM - Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
3. 08:56 AM - Starting finally (Sandra & Rick Lark)
4. 09:13 AM - =?us-ascii?Q?PosiStrobeXPT__Combination_Tail_Position_Light/Strobe_Light? (Albert Gardner)
5. 09:25 AM - Re: Starting finally (Tim Olson)
6. 09:43 AM - Re: Starting finally (effectus@rogers.com)
7. 10:40 AM - Interior prep (Eric_Kallio)
8. 11:34 AM - Re: PosiStrobeXPT Combination Tail Position Light/Strobe Light (Bob Leffler)
9. 11:34 AM - Re: Interior prep (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
10. 01:24 PM - Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces (Vernon Smith)
11. 04:00 PM - Re: Interior prep (orchidman)
12. 04:24 PM - Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces (Dave Leikam)
13. 04:41 PM - Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces (linn)
14. 04:43 PM - Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
15. 05:50 PM - Re: Re: Interior prep (Miller John)
16. 05:59 PM - Fw: Prepping fibreglass surfaces (David Saylor)
17. 06:04 PM - Re: Interior prep (johngoodman)
18. 06:11 PM - Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces (Dave Leikam)
19. 06:22 PM - Re: Re: Interior prep (effectus@rogers.com)
20. 06:39 PM - Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
21. 06:41 PM - Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces (linn)
22. 07:11 PM - Sanding Fibreglass (Les Kearney)
23. 07:22 PM - Re: Starting finally (Les Kearney)
24. 08:05 PM - Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces (Dj Merrill)
25. 08:23 PM - Re: PosiStrobeXPT Combination Tail Position Light/Strobe Light (Albert Gardner)
26. 10:53 PM - non magnetic door guide pins (Steven DiNieri)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
Hi
Looking through the archives I have seen references to using acetone (Rick
Sked) to clean fibreglass prior to applying epoxy. I have been using lacquer
thinner in my cleanup which contains toluene as an active ingredient. Is
this an acceptable substitute for the acetone for prep work?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les
#40643 living in a fiberglass world
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
Les,
Wash all the parts first in dawn dish soap and hot water....then I wiped everything
down with acetone, I used Loehle wonder fill then their black high dill primer
sanded and patched the weave with Metal glaze and shot white high fill primer...were
doing that as I write this. Acetone is just a good cleaner to get
stubborn mold release out if present after washing...the thinned epoxy was not
needed with the wonderfull but I did use it on the cowl due to the potential
oil and fuel exposure
Rick
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney@shaw.ca>
Subject: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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| Subject: | Starting finally |
Hi all
Well it's taken about 5 years to get to this point, but as of Thursday May
14, I became builder #40956. I've finally gotten to a point where I have
enough time to build. I've been following this group since the yahoo list
days so it's been a long time in the making.
My spouse and I were on a vacation in Oregon so I showed up at the Aurora
airport and ordered the tail kit. In typical Vans fashion my order was met
with no fan fare what so ever (not even a thankyou), not that I expected any
. None the less I'm pumped and looking forward to the build.
I learned to fly 32 years ago, have a commercial ticket, multi, single IFR,
presently co-own a '76 FG Cardinal and am located in Southampton, Ont.
I'm going to be at Oshkosh for a few days this year so hopefully can put
some faces to names that I recognize.
I also had a personal demonstration of the Advanced Flight Systems EFIS
while I was in the Aurora area and want to thank Rob Hickman for his time.
For someone who has flown IFR behind "steam gauges" for as long as I have,
the new PFD's and MFD's are amazing.
Anyway keep expounding all your wisdom on me as I'm sure I'm going to need
it.
Rick Lark #40956
Message 4
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| Subject: | =?us-ascii?Q?PosiStrobeXPT__Combination_Tail_Position_Light/Strobe_Light? |
I bought this light from Aircraft Spruce. The description below comes from
their Web catalog. The unit looks and works great but you may want to know
there is an issue with this light. This part no. will not flash the strobe
separately, it will strobe only when the tail light is also on. I contacted
the factory and they said "...What we can do is send you a different model
PosiXP that has a universal circuit board in it and which will permit you to
have whichever connection pattern you desire.... strobe on with light or
strobe off with light....."
They asked me to return the one I have and they would send the different
model out from the next production run in mid-June. BTW, this problem was
solved the same day I raised the issue with the manufacturer, aren't
airplane people great to deal with?
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
>From Aircraft Spruce Web Catalog.
"PosiStrobeXPT, a higher performance mini-position / strobe, the all-new and
super bright PosiStrobeXPT. Integrating the most technologically-advanced
and brightest LEDs available in the world to the amazing and all-new
exclusive AveoOptimizerT circuitry.
White / White
Description Part Number Price
AveoFlash PosiStrobeXPT 9-32V 11-07361 $317.95" (actual price was $306)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Starting finally |
Welcome to the group, Rick. Since you've been following it all so
long, I'm sure you know how easy it is to get help when you
need...just ask. You'll enjoy the building process, I'm sure.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Sandra & Rick Lark wrote:
>
> Hi all
>
> Well it's taken about 5 years to get to this point, but as of Thursday
> May 14, I became builder #40956. I've finally gotten to a point where I
> have enough time to build. I've been following this group since the
> yahoo list days so it's been a long time in the making.
>
> My spouse and I were on a vacation in Oregon so I showed up at the
> Aurora airport and ordered the tail kit. In typical Vans fashion my
> order was met with no fan fare what so ever (not even a thankyou), not
> that I expected any . None the less I'm pumped and looking forward to
> the build.
>
> I learned to fly 32 years ago, have a commercial ticket, multi, single
> IFR, presently co-own a '76 FG Cardinal and am located in Southampton, Ont.
>
> I'm going to be at Oshkosh for a few days this year so hopefully can put
> some faces to names that I recognize.
>
> I also had a personal demonstration of the Advanced Flight Systems EFIS
> while I was in the Aurora area and want to thank Rob Hickman for his
> time. For someone who has flown IFR behind "steam gauges" for as long as
> I have, the new PFD's and MFD's are amazing.
>
> Anyway keep expounding all your wisdom on me as I'm sure I'm going to
> need it.
>
> Rick Lark #40956
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Starting finally |
Rick,
Welcome to the Southern Ontario RV-10 Builder's Association!!
Give me a call and I'll let you know what's going on here in the London area.
Congratulations,
Dave Hertner
Effectus (at) rogers (dot) com
Do not archive
------Original Message------
From: Sandra & Rick Lark
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Starting finally
Sent: May 17, 2009 11:29 AM
Hi all
Well it's taken about 5 years to get to this point, but as of Thursday May
14, I became builder #40956. I've finally gotten to a point where I have
enough time to build. I've been following this group since the yahoo list
days so it's been a long time in the making.
My spouse and I were on a vacation in Oregon so I showed up at the Aurora
airport and ordered the tail kit. In typical Vans fashion my order was met
with no fan fare what so ever (not even a thankyou), not that I expected any
. None the less I'm pumped and looking forward to the build.
I learned to fly 32 years ago, have a commercial ticket, multi, single IFR,
presently co-own a '76 FG Cardinal and am located in Southampton, Ont.
I'm going to be at Oshkosh for a few days this year so hopefully can put
some faces to names that I recognize.
I also had a personal demonstration of the Advanced Flight Systems EFIS
while I was in the Aurora area and want to thank Rob Hickman for his time.
For someone who has flown IFR behind "steam gauges" for as long as I have,
the new PFD's and MFD's are amazing.
Anyway keep expounding all your wisdom on me as I'm sure I'm going to need
it.
Rick Lark #40956
Message 7
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I am prepping the canopy interior surfaces for the upcoming interior and headliner
purchase from Abby at Flightline. When you get the interior pieces is there
a padded backing to it that covers minor surface blemishes of the fiberglass,
or is it just straight leather pieces that adhere to the surface? I have smoothed
out the 'veins' on the lid and am still sanding and smoothing, just want
to know how for to go on the sanding for the headliner and what areas won't be
covered and need to be finish sanded smooth.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244399#244399
Message 8
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| Subject: | PosiStrobeXPT Combination Tail Position Light/Strobe Light |
Dan Langhout did an excellent write up on the posistrobexp from Aveo and the
suntail from AeroLEDs.
(http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=42940)
I'm glad to hear that there is an upgrade in the works. Have you noticed
any RF issues with the posistrobexp as Dan reported?
Initial comparisons has the Suntail producing a brighter strobe output, but
at about $70 cost penalty.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 12:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: PosiStrobeXPT Combination Tail Position Light/Strobe
Light
I bought this light from Aircraft Spruce. The description below comes from
their Web catalog. The unit looks and works great but you may want to know
there is an issue with this light. This part no. will not flash the strobe
separately, it will strobe only when the tail light is also on. I contacted
the factory and they said "...What we can do is send you a different model
PosiXP that has a universal circuit board in it and which will permit you to
have whichever connection pattern you desire.... strobe on with light or
strobe off with light....."
They asked me to return the one I have and they would send the different
model out from the next production run in mid-June. BTW, this problem was
solved the same day I raised the issue with the manufacturer, aren't
airplane people great to deal with?
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
>From Aircraft Spruce Web Catalog.
"PosiStrobeXPT, a higher performance mini-position / strobe, the all-new and
super bright PosiStrobeXPT. Integrating the most technologically-advanced
and brightest LEDs available in the world to the amazing and all-new
exclusive AveoOptimizerT circuitry.
White / White
Description Part Number Price
AveoFlash PosiStrobeXPT 9-32V 11-07361 $317.95" (actual price was $306)
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Interior prep |
The bulkhead panel sits on the forward edge of the corrugated panel and is about
1/4 thick overall. It covers the rivet line on the cabin top above the panel
------Original Message------
From: Eric_Kallio
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: Rv
Sent: May 17, 2009 10:39 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Interior prep
I am prepping the canopy interior surfaces for the upcoming interior and headliner
purchase from Abby at Flightline. When you get the interior pieces is there
a padded backing to it that covers minor surface blemishes of the fiberglass,
or is it just straight leather pieces that adhere to the surface? I have smoothed
out the 'veins' on the lid and am still sanding and smoothing, just want
to know how for to go on the sanding for the headliner and what areas won't be
covered and need to be finish sanded smooth.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244399#244399
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
Message 10
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| Subject: | Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
Hi Les=2C
I asked the same question of PolyFiber the manufacturer of UV Smoothprime.
They recommended using acetone and not substituting lacquer thinner when pr
eparing fiberglass for their primer. The reasoning had to do with acetones
faster evaporation rate and not leaving residual solvents behind.
Vern Smith (#324 finishing)
From: kearney@shaw.ca
Subject: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
Hi
Looking through the archives I have seen references to using
acetone (Rick Sked) to clean fibreglass prior to applying epoxy. I have bee
n
using lacquer thinner in my cleanup which contains toluene as an active
ingredient. Is this an acceptable substitute for the acetone for prep work?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les
#40643 living in a fiberglass world
_________________________________________________________________
Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail=AE.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tut
orial_QuickAdd1_052009
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| Subject: | Re: Interior prep |
You will want to smooth out the inside of the top. There is no foam backing.
You will glue it right to the top. The top doesn't have to be sealed or any thing
like that, just get it smooth.
If you are going to put a center console in, it is best fit with the top off.
You will probably want to put the top on and dry fit the console a couple times
also. I believe most of us that are installing a console are attaching it with
the top off. It is much easier. Also you might want to attach the headliner
in the central area with the top off. It is much easier to apply the center
18 to 20 inches with the top up side down. Let it dry and install the top
for the last time.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Final Finishing - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244425#244425
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
Why would you want to apply anything to clean the surface? I am no
expert but wouldn't a good scrubbing with 80-100 grit sand paper give a
nice bare raw surface to apply epoxy to?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Vernon Smith
To: RV 10 list
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 3:23 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
Hi Les,
I asked the same question of PolyFiber the manufacturer of UV
Smoothprime. They recommended using acetone and not substituting lacquer
thinner when preparing fiberglass for their primer. The reasoning had to
do with acetones faster evaporation rate and not leaving residual
solvents behind.
Vern Smith (#324 finishing)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: kearney@shaw.ca
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 08:26:03 -0600
Hi
Looking through the archives I have seen references to using acetone
(Rick Sked) to clean fibreglass prior to applying epoxy. I have been
using lacquer thinner in my cleanup which contains toluene as an active
ingredient. Is this an acceptable substitute for the acetone for prep
work?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les
#40643 living in a fiberglass world
http://www.matronics.com/Navigatwww.matronics.com/contribution">http://ww
w.matronics.com/contribution
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
You want to get rid of the powder from sanding that's down in the pores
...... it'll help everything stick better.
Linn
Dave Leikam wrote:
> Why would you want to apply anything to clean the surface? I am no
> expert but wouldn't a good scrubbing with 80-100 grit sand paper give a
> nice bare raw surface to apply epoxy to?
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Vernon Smith <mailto:planesmith@hotmail.com>
> *To:* RV 10 list <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 17, 2009 3:23 PM
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
>
> Hi Les,
>
> I asked the same question of PolyFiber the manufacturer of UV
> Smoothprime. They recommended using acetone and not substituting
> lacquer thinner when preparing fiberglass for their primer. The
> reasoning had to do with acetones faster evaporation rate and not
> leaving residual solvents behind.
>
> Vern Smith (#324 finishing)
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> From: kearney@shaw.ca
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
> Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 08:26:03 -0600
>
> Hi
>
>
>
> Looking through the archives I have seen references to using acetone
> (Rick Sked) to clean fibreglass prior to applying epoxy. I have been
> using lacquer thinner in my cleanup which contains toluene as an
> active ingredient. Is this an acceptable substitute for the acetone
> for prep work?
>
>
>
> Inquiring minds need to know
>
>
>
> Les
>
> #40643 living in a fiberglass world
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigatwww.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail. See how.
> <http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_QuickAdd1_052009>
>
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
You need to wash all oils and mold release agents off
or you will scrub them into the pin holes and con
taminate the surface when you sand them
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Interior prep |
I put 1/8 inch foam backing (fire retardant0 on my fabric from Abby.
Worked great and you don't have to worry about smoothing out the top.
grumpy
N184JM
do not archive
On May 17, 2009, at 5:59 PM, orchidman wrote:
>
> You will want to smooth out the inside of the top. There is no foam
> backing. You will glue it right to the top. The top doesn't have
> to be sealed or any thing like that, just get it smooth.
> If you are going to put a center console in, it is best fit with the
> top off. You will probably want to put the top on and dry fit the
> console a couple times also. I believe most of us that are
> installing a console are attaching it with the top off. It is much
> easier. Also you might want to attach the headliner in the central
> area with the top off. It is much easier to apply the center 18 to
> 20 inches with the top up side down. Let it dry and install the top
> for the last time.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Final Finishing - SB
> (N2GB registered)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244425#244425
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: David Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
Scuffing with 80 grit then wiping with acetone is the standard prep before
applying resin. 80g mechanically opens up the material, then the acetone
washes and softens up the resin to make it ready for the resin.
On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 4:23 PM, Dave Leikam <daveleikam@wi.rr.com> wrote:
> Why would you want to apply anything to clean the surface? I am no
> expert but wouldn't a good scrubbing with 80-100 grit sand paper give a nice
> bare raw surface to apply epoxy to?
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Vernon Smith <planesmith@hotmail.com>
> *To:* RV 10 list <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 17, 2009 3:23 PM
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
>
> Hi Les,
>
> I asked the same question of PolyFiber the manufacturer of UV Smoothprime.
> They recommended using acetone and not substituting lacquer thinner when
> preparing fiberglass for their primer. The reasoning had to do with acetones
> faster evaporation rate and not leaving residual solvents behind.
>
> Vern Smith (#324 finishing)
>
> ------------------------------
> From: kearney@shaw.ca
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
> Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 08:26:03 -0600
>
> Hi
>
>
> Looking through the archives I have seen references to using acetone (Rick
> Sked) to clean fibreglass prior to applying epoxy. I have been using lacquer
> thinner in my cleanup which contains toluene as an active ingredient. Is
> this an acceptable substitute for the acetone for prep work?
>
>
> Inquiring minds need to know
>
>
> Les
>
> #40643 living in a fiberglass world
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
> *
> *
>
>
--
--
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Interior prep |
Eric,
In her instructions, Abby points out certain parts of the canopy that need to be
painted. Another thing to do.
I'm really glad you asked these questions now - I'm in the process of gluing in
the windows and plan on the liner next.
Everybody make suggestions so I can go to school on them :D
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244440#244440
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
Blow off dust with compressed air to remove? If the pores are full, the
particles would need to be dissolved to remove with solvent? Again, I am
just a lowly airplane cobbler. Educate me.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
>
> You want to get rid of the powder from sanding that's down in the pores
> ...... it'll help everything stick better.
> Linn
>
> Dave Leikam wrote:
>> Why would you want to apply anything to clean the surface? I am no
>> expert but wouldn't a good scrubbing with 80-100 grit sand paper give a
>> nice bare raw surface to apply epoxy to?
>> Dave Leikam
>> RV-10 #40496
>> N89DA (Reserved)
>> Muskego, WI
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* Vernon Smith <mailto:planesmith@hotmail.com>
>> *To:* RV 10 list <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> *Sent:* Sunday, May 17, 2009 3:23 PM
>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
>>
>> Hi Les,
>>
>> I asked the same question of PolyFiber the manufacturer of UV
>> Smoothprime. They recommended using acetone and not substituting
>> lacquer thinner when preparing fiberglass for their primer. The
>> reasoning had to do with acetones faster evaporation rate and not
>> leaving residual solvents behind.
>>
>> Vern Smith (#324 finishing)
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> From: kearney@shaw.ca
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
>> Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 08:26:03 -0600
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> Looking through the archives I have seen references to using acetone
>> (Rick Sked) to clean fibreglass prior to applying epoxy. I have been
>> using lacquer thinner in my cleanup which contains toluene as an
>> active ingredient. Is this an acceptable substitute for the acetone
>> for prep work?
>>
>> Inquiring minds need to know
>>
>> Les
>>
>> #40643 living in a fiberglass world
>>
>>
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigatwww.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail. See how.
>>
>> <http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_QuickAdd1_052009>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Interior prep |
Hi All,
It is truly amazing to be out here in the shop working on exactly the same thing
other builders are! The Blackberry vibrates and there is another guy gluing
in the rear windows. Technology is sure wonderful!
Dave
Do not archive
------Original Message------
From: johngoodman
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Interior prep
Sent: May 17, 2009 9:03 PM
Eric,
In her instructions, Abby points out certain parts of the canopy that need to be
painted. Another thing to do.
I'm really glad you asked these questions now - I'm in the process of gluing in
the windows and plan on the liner next.
Everybody make suggestions so I can go to school on them :D
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244440#244440
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
Dave,
Its really not hard...wash the parts with soap and water..sand the parts to remove
the gloss, smooth rough spots and wipe with acetone to clean. Compressed air
is fine but I like to vacuum. Use your primer/filler of choice...I just happen
to be using Mike Loehle's paint system which uses his pin hole filler called
wonderfil...you rub it into the glass parts and when the primer hits it, it
fuses with the wonderfil and seals the pin holes...sand the primer, use filler
(I like Metal Glaze by Evercoat) to fix any weave, rub more wonderfil into any
existing pin holes and prime again...sand and your ready for paint. This is
the best stuff I've ever used...and his paint and primer is awesome...
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
Blow off dust with compressed air to remove? If the pores are full, the
particles would need to be dissolved to remove with solvent? Again, I am
just a lowly airplane cobbler. Educate me.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
>
> You want to get rid of the powder from sanding that's down in the pores
> ...... it'll help everything stick better.
> Linn
>
> Dave Leikam wrote:
>> Why would you want to apply anything to clean the surface? I am no
>> expert but wouldn't a good scrubbing with 80-100 grit sand paper give a
>> nice bare raw surface to apply epoxy to?
>> Dave Leikam
>> RV-10 #40496
>> N89DA (Reserved)
>> Muskego, WI
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* Vernon Smith <mailto:planesmith@hotmail.com>
>> *To:* RV 10 list <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> *Sent:* Sunday, May 17, 2009 3:23 PM
>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
>>
>> Hi Les,
>>
>> I asked the same question of PolyFiber the manufacturer of UV
>> Smoothprime. They recommended using acetone and not substituting
>> lacquer thinner when preparing fiberglass for their primer. The
>> reasoning had to do with acetones faster evaporation rate and not
>> leaving residual solvents behind.
>>
>> Vern Smith (#324 finishing)
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> From: kearney@shaw.ca
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces
>> Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 08:26:03 -0600
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> Looking through the archives I have seen references to using acetone
>> (Rick Sked) to clean fibreglass prior to applying epoxy. I have been
>> using lacquer thinner in my cleanup which contains toluene as an
>> active ingredient. Is this an acceptable substitute for the acetone
>> for prep work?
>>
>> Inquiring minds need to know
>>
>> Les
>>
>> #40643 living in a fiberglass world
>>
>>
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigatwww.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail. See how.
>>
>> <http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_QuickAdd1_052009>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
There is a lot of contamination on the FG BEFORE you even sand ......
oils from your hands .... mold release .... dirt and dust from the shop
.... which should all be cleaned off before you sand. Sanding with all
the crud on there pushes a lot of it down into the FG. Soapy water (hot
if you can get it)and a red 3M pad works wonders. Plenty of water to
flush all the bad stuff away. Let it dry real good before you sand.
As you sand, the dust is pushed down into the FG. Acetone will soften
the powder and give the surface of the FG a little 'nap' as the little
strands of glass stand up .... and give whatever you put on the surface
something better to adhere to. Without the acetone and some mechanical
(your rag or 3M pad) the dust will become a barrier between your next
material you put on it (more epoxy or paint).
Quoting Dave Saylor:
Scuffing with 80 grit then wiping with acetone is the standard prep
before applying resin. 80g mechanically opens up the material, then the
acetone washes and softens up the resin to make it ready for the resin.
.... which also works if you're spraying primer on it.
Blowing the dust off gets the surface stuff, but not the embedded stuff,
and it's real hard to make sure the whole surface gets the strongest air
blast. Not totally effective.
We're all lowly airplane builders .... some of us have worked with
various materials before, and mostly learned the hard way .... by
finding what works and what doesn't. ..... and we all were educated by
someone else. Nobody is born with this knowledge!!!
Hope this helps.
Linn
Dave Leikam wrote:
>
> Blow off dust with compressed air to remove? If the pores are full, the
> particles would need to be dissolved to remove with solvent? Again, I
> am just a lowly airplane cobbler. Educate me.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
Message 22
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| Subject: | Sanding Fibreglass |
Hi
Once again I just have to say that this list is an absolutely indispensible
resource to first time builders like me. Thanks to all who chime in and
provide guidance.
Here is my next question. When prepping the doors, Van's instructs that you
""sand the bag side surface" of the inner and outer door shells. After
fitting the canopy, it seems to me that the term "sand" could mean a light
touch up or sanding to 0.0000001". That being said, I have sanded the
perimeters until they are nearly, but not quite completely smooth. I didn't
want to take too much material off. Is this correct or should these surfaces
be absolutely smooth (i.e. no low spots at all no matter how slight)?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les
#40643 - Our reality is shaped by the assumptions we make
Message 23
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| Subject: | Starting finally |
Hi Rick
Welcome to our insanity oops I mean happy group.
I spent more than few weekends in Southampton a lifetime ago - you are lucky
to be living in that part of the world.
Make sure you find the RV10 group at Kosh - it is always a pleasure to put
names and faces together.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Some assembly required
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sandra & Rick
Lark
Sent: May-17-09 9:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Starting finally
Hi all
Well it's taken about 5 years to get to this point, but as of Thursday May
14, I became builder #40956. I've finally gotten to a point where I have
enough time to build. I've been following this group since the yahoo list
days so it's been a long time in the making.
My spouse and I were on a vacation in Oregon so I showed up at the Aurora
airport and ordered the tail kit. In typical Vans fashion my order was met
with no fan fare what so ever (not even a thankyou), not that I expected any
. None the less I'm pumped and looking forward to the build.
I learned to fly 32 years ago, have a commercial ticket, multi, single IFR,
presently co-own a '76 FG Cardinal and am located in Southampton, Ont.
I'm going to be at Oshkosh for a few days this year so hopefully can put
some faces to names that I recognize.
I also had a personal demonstration of the Advanced Flight Systems EFIS
while I was in the Aurora area and want to thank Rob Hickman for his time.
For someone who has flown IFR behind "steam gauges" for as long as I have,
the new PFD's and MFD's are amazing.
Anyway keep expounding all your wisdom on me as I'm sure I'm going to need
it.
Rick Lark #40956
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces |
On 5/17/2009 9:37 PM, linn wrote:
> Quoting Dave Saylor:
> Scuffing with 80 grit then wiping with acetone is the standard prep
> before applying resin. 80g mechanically opens up the material, then the
> acetone washes and softens up the resin to make it ready for the resin.
I bought some stuff called "Replacetone"
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/replacetone.php> for
cleanup mostly because it is a lot more "safe" than acetone.
Would this also work as a substitute for acetone for prepping
fiberglass work?
-Dj
Message 25
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| Subject: | PosiStrobeXPT Combination Tail Position Light/Strobe Light |
I have not installed the PosiStrobe XP light as I am returning it in favor
of the model that allows strobe and position light to function separately so
can't comment on the RF issue. However, the Suntail from AeroLEDs doesn't
appear to mount the same way the Whelan it would replace does. IE, the LED
housing covers the holes for our mounting screws while the Aveo PosiStrobe
XP does not so it is a direct replacement unit. Not sure how one would mount
the Suntail unit.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RE: RV10-List: PosiStrobeXPT Combination Tail Position Light/Strobe
Light
Dan Langhout did an excellent write up on the posistrobexp from Aveo and the
suntail from AeroLEDs.
(http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=42940)
I'm glad to hear that there is an upgrade in the works. Have you noticed
any RF issues with the posistrobexp as Dan reported?
Initial comparisons has the Suntail producing a brighter strobe output, but
at about $70 cost penalty.
Message 26
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| Subject: | non magnetic door guide pins |
sorry guys, but, I cannot find my list of builders who wanted non
magnetic guide pins, please email me offline if you wanted me to swap out
your pins and haven't received any yet..
If your not sure what I'm talking about, I had several requests to make non
magnetic stainless guide pins for the rv10 billet guide block set. I'll
send out two non-mag pins no cost to any who ask simply return the magnetic
ones. (even if they were purchased elsewhere). there's been some concern
about mag interference with certain instruments.
sorry for the wasted bandwidth
steve
iflyrv10.com
steve@iflyrv10.com
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