---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 05/18/09: 4 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:40 AM - Re: Prepping fibreglass surfaces (gary) 2. 11:52 AM - RV-10 Wing Kit (RobHickman@aol.com) 3. 04:51 PM - Re: Sanding Fibreglass (Vernon Smith) 4. 05:24 PM - Re: Sanding Fibreglass (Les Kearney) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:40:46 AM PST US From: "gary" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces Replacetone will work for cleaning containers and tools, but do not use it to prep the fiberglass. It is non volatile and will not easily evaporate from the glass surface. Additionally it does not dissolve the resins and IMHO will not properly prep the surface. Acetone is not very toxic if you use common sense and don't bathe in it or sniff it to get high. Use appropriate methods and it is the best material for the job. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 9:59 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prepping fibreglass surfaces On 5/17/2009 9:37 PM, linn wrote: > Quoting Dave Saylor: > Scuffing with 80 grit then wiping with acetone is the standard prep > before applying resin. 80g mechanically opens up the material, then the > acetone washes and softens up the resin to make it ready for the resin. I bought some stuff called "Replacetone" for cleanup mostly because it is a lot more "safe" than acetone. Would this also work as a substitute for acetone for prepping fiberglass work? -Dj ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 11:52:52 AM PST US From: RobHickman@aol.com Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Wing Kit RV-10 standard build wing kit for sale $7,500 Van's current price is $9,040 Located in Portland Oregon Rob Hickman N401RH RV-4 N402RH RV-10 Email: _Rob@Advanced-Flight-Systems.com_ (mailto:Rob@Advanced-Flight-Systems.com) **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! =Mayfooter51809NO115) ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 04:51:29 PM PST US From: Vernon Smith Subject: RE: RV10-List: Sanding Fibreglass Hi Les=2C If it is the mating surfaces on the doors halves (page 45-2)=2C the idea is to roughen the surface for a good bond with the epoxy. I remember using sm all disk sander with a 25 or 40 grit disk. Again the purpose is to roughen the surface not remove material. If you are getting ready to epoxy your doors together both Tim and Deems ha ve great information on their websites. Vern Smith (#324 finishing) do not archive From: kearney@shaw.ca Subject: RV10-List: Sanding Fibreglass Hi Once again I just have to say that this list is an absolutely indispensible resource to first time builders like me. Thanks to all who chime in and provide guidance. Here is my next question. When prepping the doors=2C Van=92s instructs that you =93=94sand the bag side surface=94 of the inner and outer door shells. After fitting the canopy=2C it seems to me that the term =93sand=94 could mean a light touch up or sanding to 0.0000001=94. That being said=2C I have sanded the perimeters until they are nearly=2C but not quite completel y smooth. I didn=92t want to take too much material off. Is this correct or should these surfaces be absolutely smooth (i.e. no low spots at all no matter how slight)? Inquiring minds need to know Les #40643 - Our reality is shaped by the assumptions we make _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail=AE has a new way to see what's up with your friends. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/WhatsNew?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tut orial_WhatsNew1_052009 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:24:56 PM PST US From: "Les Kearney" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Sanding Fibreglass Hi Vern I thought that would be the case but the mating surfaces are quite uneven in spots. Mating this would leave a very uneven result. Again my assumption is that the surfaces should mate fairly evenly. Is that correct? Inquiring minds need to know Les #40643 - Our reality is shaped by the assumptions we make _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith Sent: May-18-09 5:49 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Sanding Fibreglass Hi Les, If it is the mating surfaces on the doors halves (page 45-2), the idea is to roughen the surface for a good bond with the epoxy. I remember using small disk sander with a 25 or 40 grit disk. Again the purpose is to roughen the surface not remove material. If you are getting ready to epoxy your doors together both Tim and Deems have great information on their websites. Vern Smith (#324 finishing) do not archive _____ From: kearney@shaw.ca Subject: RV10-List: Sanding Fibreglass Hi Once again I just have to say that this list is an absolutely indispensible resource to first time builders like me. Thanks to all who chime in and provide guidance. Here is my next question. When prepping the doors, Van's instructs that you ""sand the bag side surface" of the inner and outer door shells. After fitting the canopy, it seems to me that the term "sand" could mean a light touch up or sanding to 0.0000001". That being said, I have sanded the perimeters until they are nearly, but not quite completely smooth. I didn't want to take too much material off. Is this correct or should these surfaces be absolutely smooth (i.e. no low spots at all no matter how slight)? Inquiring minds need to know Les #40643 - Our reality is shaped by the assumptions we make http://www.matronics.com/contribution _____ HotmailR has a new way to see what's up with your friends. 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