Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:08 AM - Re: Re: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 (Werner Schneider)
2. 05:09 AM - Re: UMPCs for the cockpit (T.C. Chang)
3. 05:09 AM - Re: First Flights was Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' (jim@CombsFive.Com)
4. 06:39 AM - Re: First Flights was Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' (linn)
5. 06:39 AM - Re: First Flights was Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' (Werner Schneider)
6. 06:43 AM - Re: trimming cabin cover door openings (linn)
7. 07:10 AM - Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' (Rene Felker)
8. 07:13 AM - Re: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 (Tim Olson)
9. 07:45 AM - Re: trimming cabin cover door openings (Les Kearney)
10. 08:37 AM - Re: First Flights was Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyabili (orchidman)
11. 09:13 AM - Re: trimming cabin cover door openings (Tim Olson)
12. 09:13 AM - Re: First Flights was Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' (Tim Olson)
13. 09:14 AM - Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' (Tim Olson)
14. 09:39 AM - Re: Question for the door experts (A followup observation) (John Gonzalez)
15. 09:42 AM - Re: Portable oxygen (nukeflyboy)
16. 09:50 AM - Re: Question for the door experts (A followup observation) ()
17. 09:57 AM - Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' (Miller John)
18. 09:59 AM - Re: First Flights was Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyabili (egohr1)
19. 11:14 AM - Off Topic: Name that Plane (Perry, Phil)
20. 11:15 AM - glueing the doors (Chris Hukill)
21. 12:06 PM - Re: trimming cabin cover door openings (linn)
22. 12:10 PM - Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' (linn)
23. 12:11 PM - Interior paint under upholstery? (Todd Agold)
24. 12:57 PM - Re: Interior paint under upholstery? (Bob Leffler)
25. 02:17 PM - Re: Off Topic: Name that Plane (Bob Turner)
26. 02:40 PM - Re: Off Topic: Name that Plane (Seano)
27. 02:50 PM - Re: Off Topic: Name that Plane (Geoff Combs)
28. 03:23 PM - Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' (Deems Davis)
29. 08:20 PM - tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners (James Ochs)
30. 08:35 PM - Re: tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners (Kelly McMullen)
31. 08:53 PM - Re: tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners (Rob Kochman)
32. 09:12 PM - Re: UMPCs for the cockpit (Lenny Iszak)
33. 09:17 PM - Re: Interior paint under upholstery? (Jim Berry)
34. 09:43 PM - Re: Question for the door experts (A followup observation) (AirMike)
35. 09:46 PM - Re: tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners (James Ochs)
36. 09:55 PM - Re: trimming cabin cover door openings (AirMike)
37. 09:59 PM - Re: tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners (Kelly McMullen)
38. 11:53 PM - Re: tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners (Albert Gardner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
Hi Michael,
as my plane is currently in the driveway I just checked, I have SW
Version 4.01 my manual also refers to this.
I've just tested it as following and it works:
FUNC ON (I'm in Diagnostic mode)
12x FUNC (I'm on Operation config page with VS rate / Format / VRF ID
/ALT Alert Dev)
3x CRSR (the VFR ID Field is highlighted)
7 0 0 0 (Field has changed to 7000 Cursor is on 1st digit of ALT Alert Dev)
OFF (switching it off and saving)
Stein, any idea what Version 6 of the SW has different then 4.x (that is
two major releases) and how to get an update?
br
Werner
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Thank you for all your input. I tried it out and it still didn't work. All other
fields work and stay after the power cycle. I have software version 6.0 installed.
Is there probably a setting that always resets the VFR id to factory
default that needs to be disabled?
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245625#245625
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | UMPCs for the cockpit |
I have a Samsung UMPC. The screen is just not bright enough to use in my
9A.
It will be better in a 10, yet still not ideal.
------------------------------------------
T.C. Chang
http://3limafoxtrot.com/
RV-9A, Lycoming (ECI) O320-D2A, 160 hp, Carb, left Mag + right
Lightspeed
EI, Sensenich FP
GRT dual DU H1, TT DigiFlight II VSGV, 579 hrs Hobbs
Last flight: http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR
<http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR&last=1>
&last=1
RV10 emp, #40948
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 9:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: UMPCs for the cockpit
For the technophiles out there, I am about to lay down some cold cash
for a
Viliv S5. It will be used as a backup GPS and flight planning system in
the
cockpit. Anyone have any experience with these devices?? (Note that
they
also come in a 32G SSD version)
http://jkontherun.com/2009/04/18/viliv-s5-review/
Cheers,
Ron
VH-XRM
Do not archive
"Warning:
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: First Flights was Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
Les,
I had transition training with Alex in Dallas. He
made sure to cover the emergency landing piece of flying! I felt
pretty good on the first flight. Just don't expect to do a lot on
the first flight.
Gary brought up a good point. If
you are not used to the EFIS screens, you can be overwhelmed by the amount
of information presented. It takes a while (Several hours of flying)
to get used to what you need to look and and what can be ignored.
Spending time on the ground with the systems up and running goes a long
way before actually getting in the air and wondering what buttons to push
to get this and that to happen.
Jim C
N312F - It's a
wonderful airplane to fly!
Do Not Archive
--> RV10-List
message posted by: "Les Kearney" <kearney@shaw.ca>
Hi
This thread and the various perspectives are
interesting to say the least.
I'd like to add a twist related to
first flights especially given all the
newly minted -10s that have
been taking off of late.
When the time comes to take my -10 up,
I will be current in my PA28 and
will
also have taken transition
training. That being said, the first flight
really seems to me to be
a flight into the unknown. Sure everything will
have been quadruple
checked but then again, sometimes s**t does happen. At
that point
experience will count for everything. Although I have a 1000+
hours
in my Cherokee, I have never had an off field landing (touch wood)
or
a serious emergency.
That being said, my plan was to
get a pilot experienced in initial flights
to do the first test
flight. What happens if something goes seriously
wrong
on the
initial flight? Are we builders, especially after reduced flying
hours due to building, really the best people to fly the initial
flight?
Even factory built a/c are test flown by skilled *test*
pilots for the
first
time. Just food for thought.....
Cheers
Les
#40643 KOSH 20xx or bust
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: First Flights was Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> This thread and the various perspectives are interesting to say the least.
> I'd like to add a twist related to first flights especially given all the
> newly minted -10s that have been taking off of late.
>
> When the time comes to take my -10 up, I will be current in my PA28 and will
> also have taken transition training. That being said, the first flight
> really seems to me to be a flight into the unknown.
It absolutely is!!!!
Sure everything will
> have been quadruple checked but then again, sometimes s**t does happen. At
> that point experience will count for everything. Although I have a 1000+
> hours in my Cherokee, I have never had an off field landing (touch wood) or
> a serious emergency.
Now, I sure wish I could say that!>
> That being said, my plan was to get a pilot experienced in initial flights
> to do the first test flight. What happens if something goes seriously wrong
> on the initial flight? Are we builders, especially after reduced flying
> hours due to building, really the best people to fly the initial flight?
Locally, there have been two crashes of Kitfox on the first flight. One
with two fatalities .... an instructor went along with the builder/pilot
.... and they tried to return to the airport after engine failuer on
climbout. The second ended in injuries and totaled the airplane. So,
yes, S**t does happen.
>
> Even factory built a/c are test flown by skilled *test* pilots for the first
> time. Just food for thought.....
And those are good thoughts!
I'm no 'hot stick', but the first flight in my Pitts was my first ever
in one. I flew anything with a tailwheel that I could wrangle prior to
that flight, but had the luxury of being current in my Grumman .....
which may or may not have any bearing on the successful completion of
that first flight. Took me 13 years to hurt it.
The first flight is special ..... after all, you built it ..... but if
you're the least bit uncomfortable or wary ..... get someone qualified
to do the deed. As I go down the building path, there will be more -10s
flying, and I hope to get some stick time, just to get the feel of it.
It's a great excuse to fly, and it'll surely help my confidence level.
Linn
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643 KOSH 20xx or bust
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: First Flights was Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
Jim,
a good advice seen in the LAA publication, if you have a configurable
system declutter the screens and have only the minimal information
shown, later on add features and get used to it. At least with the cheap
Dynon that is an option
br Werner
jim@CombsFive.Com wrote:
> Les,
>
> I had transition training with Alex in Dallas. He made sure to cover
> the emergency landing piece of flying! I felt pretty good on the
> first flight. Just don't expect to do a lot on the first flight.
>
> Gary brought up a good point. If you are not used to the EFIS
> screens, you can be overwhelmed by the amount of information
> presented. It takes a while (Several hours of flying) to get used to
> what you need to look and and what can be ignored. Spending time on
> the ground with the systems up and running goes a long way before
> actually getting in the air and wondering what buttons to push to get
> this and that to happen.
>
> Jim C
> N312F - It's a wonderful airplane to fly!
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> Hi
>
> This thread and the various perspectives are interesting to say the least.
> I'd like to add a twist related to first flights especially given all the
> newly minted -10s that have been taking off of late.
>
> When the time comes to take my -10 up, I will be current in my PA28 and
> will
> also have taken transition training. That being said, the first flight
> really seems to me to be a flight into the unknown. Sure everything will
> have been quadruple checked but then again, sometimes s**t does happen. At
> that point experience will count for everything. Although I have a 1000+
> hours in my Cherokee, I have never had an off field landing (touch wood)
> or
> a serious emergency.
>
> That being said, my plan was to get a pilot experienced in initial flights
> to do the first test flight. What happens if something goes seriously
> wrong
> on the initial flight? Are we builders, especially after reduced flying
> hours due to building, really the best people to fly the initial flight?
>
> Even factory built a/c are test flown by skilled *test* pilots for the
> first
> time. Just food for thought.....
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643 KOSH 20xx or bust
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
I omitted the 'read the whole section' step when I trimmed my first door
and ended up with little contact area to work with ....... trimmed to
the 'almost finished' line. So I have clecos everywhere that go into
the 'air space' between door inner shell and cabin top. At the bottom
of the door, I'll have to use strips to press the bottom glue line
together. But I think that having the clecos will actually help in the
gluing process.
But my alignment holes came out OK, so there's something going on that I
don't understand.
Linn
Rob Kochman wrote:
> Saying it looks like a drunk monkey made the scribe lines on my cabin
> cover is probably unfair to drunk monkeys. At least I have options: at
> times I have 2 or 3 scribe lines to choose from in a particular area,
> and in other places I get to create my own line.
>
> Joking aside, I'm contemplating whether to trim to the lines around the
> door openings now or wait until I'm fitting the doors. I need to trim
> at least part of the way around the cabin attachment screw holes to get
> a countersink in there. I heard at least one person say they overtimmed
> in this area by following the lines, hence my hesitation doing it now.
> Anyone have a recommendation?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
After 6 hours of transition training, I did my first flight in Curious
George. I would want to have it any other way. It was my airplane.....
I am one of those pilots that rates himself as below average....I also suck
at sports....but I am confident in my skills. My first flight was exciting
and I will remember it for the rest of my life.
Flights of memory in my life.... in order
1. First flight in airplane (teenage friends dad's tripacer out of a hay
field)
2. First flight in my RV-10
3. PPL check ride (note not my first flight after......)
4. Ride in backseat of an F-15 (WOW)
Note my number one......any Utah EAA members that want to do Young Eagle
flights on Saturday, I was told last night that Chapter 58 has 60 kids
signed up and expect more. They are doing it in conjunction with chapter 23
and the flights will be out of Ogden (KOGD) -- in conjunction with the B-17
flights. (Sorry about the semi ad) I will be there in my RV-10, last year
Scott was there also. I know I did four flights...12 passengers and hope to
get in 5 or 6 this year.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
Werner,
No, the standard 330 just does the normal transponder type functions
but has the datalink capability to listen and send TIS info to a
Display. I am not an expert but I don't think it transmits vector
info. BUT, if you buy the 1090-ES upgrade then yes indeed the system
MUST be tied into a very accurate GPS and then that fits into the ADS-
B system and does transmit out TCAS type info for others with 1090-ES
receivers to display. It's only with that upgrade though. The ADS-B
UATs do the same sort of thing but at 978mhz. In the US in a few
years one of the two will be a requirement.
Tim
On May 28, 2009, at 12:47 AM, Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Tim,
>
> does your GTX330, due to the serial GPS Info, output your flight
> path vector in order to provide TCAS user with vector information?
> (some kind of enhanced surveillance mode)
>
> Werner
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>
>> My GNS480 is wired to the GTX330 via Serial. I'm not sure what
>> you mean about vector info though. For traffic I do get the
>> vector info.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>
>>
>>
>> Werner Schneider wrote:
>>>
>>> That is true Tim,
>>>
>>> did you wire that via ARINC or serial? Does your GTX330 then also
>>> provide vector info?
>>>
>>> Werner
>>>
>>> Tim Olson wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Side note.... the GTX330 will switch to ALT mode from GND mode
>>>> if you have it wired to a panel mount GPS. So if you're a
>>>> 430/480/530
>>>> owner too, you won't need a squat switch.
>>>>
>>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Werner Schneider wrote:
>>>>> <glastar@gmx.net>
>>>>>
>>>>> Sorry Michael,
>>>>>
>>>>> I should have been more precise so looked it up again in the
>>>>> manual:
>>>>> "Holding down the FUNC key and pressing the ON key provides
>>>>> access to the configuration pages. The FUNC key sequences
>>>>> forwrad through the configuration pages. The START/STOP key
>>>>> reverses through the pages, stopping at the Menu page. The CRSR
>>>>> key highlights selectable fields on each page. When a field is
>>>>> highlighted the 0-9 keys enter numeric data and the 8 or 9 keys
>>>>> move through list selections. Press the CRSR key to accept
>>>>> changes. When a field is highlighted, pressing the FUNC key
>>>>> moves to the next configuration page without saving the changes."
>>>>>
>>>>> And don't forget, that you will need to wire a SQUAT switch for
>>>>> ground/air operation for the 330.
>>>>>
>>>>> Werner
>>>>>
>>>>> Werner Schneider wrote:
>>>>>> >
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi Michael,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> be aware, that you do the right procedure to SAVE that new code
>>>>>> at the end. Mine has 7000 and it stays 7000 ;o)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Werner
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hi there,
>>>>>>> I tried to change the VFR code from 1200 (preset by default)
>>>>>>> to 7000 as we have it here in Europe per instructions from the
>>>>>>> installation manual. For some reason after a power cycle the
>>>>>>> VFR code is back at 1200.
>>>>>>> Did anyone else experience the same issue?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Michael
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> --------
>>>>>>> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>>>>>>> #511
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245422#245422
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | trimming cabin cover door openings |
Linn
I am not sure if I understand your problem about the bottom of the door, but
if I have got it right there may be a better solution for you.
On my first door I had a gap on the bottom door seam. I found that the epoxy
coverage wasn't what it should be and much of the door seam opened up. To
fix, I pumped *lots* and *lots* of thickened epoxy into the seam and then
clamped with 20 or so cleco clamps. I folded packing tape over the seam
first so the clamps didn't get epoxied to the door. The result was quite
good.
I found a 10cc syringe (of the type used to dispense meds to kids) was able
to suck up and dispense thickened epoxy.
If you have trimmed too much off the door bottom to cleco it into door
opening per the plans, you may find the above approach helpful. Just leave
the bottom seam unglued do it after the sides and top have been glued.
As far as alignment holes were concerned, that was my problem - they didn't
align nor did the placement (in case of the front tab) match the plans. For
such position sensitive parts, I am very disappointed with the Van's QC.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - living in a f/g world
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn
Sent: May-28-09 7:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: trimming cabin cover door openings
I omitted the 'read the whole section' step when I trimmed my first door
and ended up with little contact area to work with ....... trimmed to
the 'almost finished' line. So I have clecos everywhere that go into
the 'air space' between door inner shell and cabin top. At the bottom
of the door, I'll have to use strips to press the bottom glue line
together. But I think that having the clecos will actually help in the
gluing process.
But my alignment holes came out OK, so there's something going on that I
don't understand.
Linn
Rob Kochman wrote:
> Saying it looks like a drunk monkey made the scribe lines on my cabin
> cover is probably unfair to drunk monkeys. At least I have options: at
> times I have 2 or 3 scribe lines to choose from in a particular area,
> and in other places I get to create my own line.
>
> Joking aside, I'm contemplating whether to trim to the lines around the
> door openings now or wait until I'm fitting the doors. I need to trim
> at least part of the way around the cabin attachment screw holes to get
> a countersink in there. I heard at least one person say they overtimmed
> in this area by following the lines, hence my hesitation doing it now.
> Anyone have a recommendation?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: First Flights was Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyabili |
jim(at)CombsFive.Com wrote:
> Les,I had transition training with Alex in Dallas.
I also had the training with Alex. I would say a must for any new -10 builder.
I now have over 10 hours in my -10. I have dual AFS in my plane and I set the
right seat EFIS full screen engine and my screen the stock Airspeed, Altimeter
with the engine across the bottom.
I just wanted to know what my airspeed and altitude was and to be able to monitor
the engine and not be confused with all the extra info. I am now adding all
the other info to the screen as I am becoming more comfortable with everything.
I just feel safer knowing that I will be able to stay with or ahead of all
the information in front of me, inside and out :D
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245710#245710
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
You may want to just look at other people's RV-10's and photos
of flying RV-10's. I worried I'd trim too much too, but it
turns out it's not really one of those major worries. I thought
I did at one point but then I ended up trimming more. The
scribe lines on mine were the same way. Sometimes 2 or 3 lines,
and you don't know which one to use. But, it all works out.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Rob Kochman wrote:
> Saying it looks like a drunk monkey made the scribe lines on my cabin
> cover is probably unfair to drunk monkeys. At least I have options: at
> times I have 2 or 3 scribe lines to choose from in a particular area,
> and in other places I get to create my own line.
>
> Joking aside, I'm contemplating whether to trim to the lines around the
> door openings now or wait until I'm fitting the doors. I need to trim
> at least part of the way around the cabin attachment screw holes to get
> a countersink in there. I heard at least one person say they overtimmed
> in this area by following the lines, hence my hesitation doing it now.
> Anyone have a recommendation?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Rob
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: First Flights was Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
I was VERY paranoid about how I'd transition to an EFIS from steam
gauges for my first flight. I went into it figuring I may not
even look at the EFIS much because it wouldn't be as easy to
read and understand. Turns out I was wrong. I found that the
transition went really smooth, almost immediate. Now, if you're
talking about the "How do I load approaches" and that kind of thing,
that's a whole different story. But, just being able to view
and quickly interpret the EFIS...that wasn't bad at all. Just
try not to turn on every item of clutter that you have, and
keep it simple.
The BIGGER headache is going for that first flight with all of
your alarm limits not tuned in. I had my stall warning set
intentionally high (probably shouldn't have done that), and
some other limits set in places that I later adjusted. I
didn't know what to expect, so I guess at their set points.
So on my first flight, I was getting stall warnings when I
was far from a stall....I just flew by feel. In retrospect,
if there had only been more flying RV-10s back then it would
have been nice to just copy what someone else had for limits
and go with it for the first flight, being realistic on that
stall speed. (I had mine set for 75kts or something like
that).
I had spent a bit of time not only sitting behind the
powered up screen, but playing with the simulator on the
PC before I flew, so it wasn't totally from ground zero.
One bit of warning though.... if you have devices like
heading indicators and other things that require calibration,
or scaling, do that before your first flight. Way too
many people seem to skip it and then they end up with
some unusual avionics issues that they wouldn't have had
to deal with.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
jim@CombsFive.Com wrote:
> Les,
>
> I had transition training with Alex in Dallas. He made sure to cover
> the emergency landing piece of flying! I felt pretty good on the first
> flight. Just don't expect to do a lot on the first flight.
>
> Gary brought up a good point. If you are not used to the EFIS screens,
> you can be overwhelmed by the amount of information presented. It takes
> a while (Several hours of flying) to get used to what you need to look
> and and what can be ignored. Spending time on the ground with the
> systems up and running goes a long way before actually getting in the
> air and wondering what buttons to push to get this and that to happen.
>
> Jim C
> N312F - It's a wonderful airplane to fly!
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> Hi
>
> This thread and the various perspectives are interesting to say the least.
> I'd like to add a twist related to first flights especially given all the
> newly minted -10s that have been taking off of late.
>
> When the time comes to take my -10 up, I will be current in my PA28 and
> will
> also have taken transition training. That being said, the first flight
> really seems to me to be a flight into the unknown. Sure everything will
> have been quadruple checked but then again, sometimes s**t does happen. At
> that point experience will count for everything. Although I have a 1000+
> hours in my Cherokee, I have never had an off field landing (touch wood)
> or
> a serious emergency.
>
> That being said, my plan was to get a pilot experienced in initial flights
> to do the first test flight. What happens if something goes seriously
> wrong
> on the initial flight? Are we builders, especially after reduced flying
> hours due to building, really the best people to fly the initial flight?
>
> Even factory built a/c are test flown by skilled *test* pilots for the
> first
> time. Just food for thought.....
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643 KOSH 20xx or bust
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
Unless someone is a real low time pilot, I can't imagine
not doing my own first flight. Some may call that crazy,
but I found it to be a magical and special time. My
thought is, if you aren't prepared to do your first flight,
you should probably prepare yourself....get some additional
training, or ask for 5 or 10 more hours of transition training,
or do whatever you need to do to prepare. If you have done
a good job flying with one of the transition training
folk, you won't have any big problem with yours as long
as you don't have a mechanical issue. And, it's also your
job to do a good job building so that you can minimize
your chances of mechanical issues. Most things are
preventable, and having a few experienced sets of eyes
inspect things with you can minimize your mechanical
problems too. To date, I've never had the experience
of watching my RV-10 depart from the earth without me
in the front seat, let alone the airplane.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Rene Felker wrote:
>
>
> After 6 hours of transition training, I did my first flight in Curious
> George. I would want to have it any other way. It was my airplane.....
>
> I am one of those pilots that rates himself as below average....I also suck
> at sports....but I am confident in my skills. My first flight was exciting
> and I will remember it for the rest of my life.
>
> Flights of memory in my life.... in order
>
> 1. First flight in airplane (teenage friends dad's tripacer out of a hay
> field)
> 2. First flight in my RV-10
> 3. PPL check ride (note not my first flight after......)
> 4. Ride in backseat of an F-15 (WOW)
>
> Note my number one......any Utah EAA members that want to do Young Eagle
> flights on Saturday, I was told last night that Chapter 58 has 60 kids
> signed up and expect more. They are doing it in conjunction with chapter 23
> and the flights will be out of Ogden (KOGD) -- in conjunction with the B-17
> flights. (Sorry about the semi ad) I will be there in my RV-10, last year
> Scott was there also. I know I did four flights...12 passengers and hope to
> get in 5 or 6 this year.
>
>
>
> Rene' Felker
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
> 801-721-6080
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Question for the door experts (A followup observation) |
Monoject 412 curved tip syringe=2C google and buy them from a dental supply
house. At a hooby store they are about a buck a piece. A person can get 50
for about $19.00.
From: kearney@shaw.ca
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Question for the door experts (A followup observati
on)
Ben
A small 10cc hypodermic works well to push thickened epoxy into gaps. I wen
t to the local pharmacy and bought a few along with a few #20 bore needles
(I haven=92t tried them yet). The pharmacist didn=92t bat an eye when I exp
lained what I wanted them for.
Cheers
Les
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: May-27-09 8:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Question for the door experts (A followup observati
on)
Les=2C
I too ended up with some gaps in the seams of my first door=2C especially a
round the window openings. I ended up squeezing more epoxy into the gaps a
s much as practical. The doors are still very solidly glued together but I
was worried about moisture getting into the gaps over time. The thing tha
t got me the most was that the amount of lip left before trimming the windo
w opening is somewhat misleading. You don=92t realize how far in you end u
p trimming the window opening. It does seem like you cut out darn near all
the glued surface. The second one I used about 30% more of the epoxy laye
r when gluing the halves together and spread it out wider on the contact su
rfaces. That one came out much better.
I ended up inadvertently cutting off one of the alignment tabs (the front o
ne I think) on one of my doors. I got a little wild with the cutoff tool w
hen doing the initial trimming. It worked out OK cause I only did it to on
e of the halves. I don=92t think that any of my window holes actually line
d up... maybe one.
-Ben Westfall
#40579 ' metal glaze is great!
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Wednesday=2C May 27=2C 2009 5:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Question for the door experts (A followup observation)
Hi
A couple of weeks ago I ran into a problem with missing / misaligned index
holes in my left door halves. Based on Van=92s recommendation=2C I =93creat
ed=94 the front index hole by shimming the front so the front door profile
was sitting about the same height as the rear. This worked out quite well.
Yesterday=2C I started assembling the left door. In this case only two of t
he window index holes matched=2C the rear index holes were mismatched and o
f course the front index holes were completely missing. I am glad I had alr
eady done one door as I would have been stumped as to what to do otherwise.
To a certain extent=2C I was very=2C very lucky as the alignment between t
he door halves and the canopy turned out quite nicely. If the door halves a
re not aligned against the canopy correctly=2C you can end up trimming too
much of the flange on the bottom the door when fitting the door (especially
if working from the top down). In my case I worked from the bottom up and
avoided trimming too much off the bottom of the door.
I also had a problem with =93gaps=94 in the seams on the first door. In ret
rospect I think Van=92s plans should specify a much thicker epoxy layer on
the bonding surfaces. I did this on the second door with a much better resu
lt.
Anyway=2C these are comments from a f/g neophyte ' YMMV
Cheers
Les
#40643 ' Look ma=2C its snowing fiberglass
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney@shaw.ca]
Sent: May-14-09 6:38 PM
Subject: Question for the door experts
Hi
Well today I start on my doors. First I trimmed the door opening to about 1
/8=94 from the scribe lines. Then=2C as per the plans=2C I trimmed the door
halves and drilled the index holes. Well=2C the first problem was that the
window index holes didn=92t align ' two were off by =BD=94. Next I found
the forward index hole did not match the hole left open on the forward fus
e skin. TRhe door index holes is high by at least a couple of inches compar
ed to the hole in the fuse skin.
Has anyone else run into this problem and if so how did you deal with it?
I spoke to Ken Scott at Van=92s who mentioned that this was a first for him
. I guess I am just lucky.
Cheers
Les
#40643 ' Covered in f/g dust http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Lis
t http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Portable oxygen |
I had the same idea as Les. All stuff from Mountain High, the bottle is behind
the left rear seat. Tubing is run to the tunnel console for the front seats
and to the rear seat side panels for the rear passengers. Bulkhead fittings are
used for service connections and to tie in the bottle. This way the bottle
can be removed easily for filling or use in the RV-6.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245728#245728
Message 16
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| Subject: | Question for the door experts (A followup observation) |
Another option that works good - if you have a local farm supply - they carry a
good variety of needles and syringes - some quite large. Appear less expensive
then the pharmacy. I used the large syringe with no needle fro things like
proseal and weld-on. Just drill hole larger if needed. $5.00 got me all I needed
for the project and then some..
Byron
N253RV Assigned
DNA
---- John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Monoject 412 curved tip syringe, google and buy them from a dental supply house.
At a hooby store they are about a buck a piece. A person can get 50 for about
$19.00.....
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
I agree with Tim.
I wouldn't have let anyone else do the first flight!
grumpy
N184JM
do not archive
On May 28, 2009, at 11:13 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Unless someone is a real low time pilot, I can't imagine
> not doing my own first flight. Some may call that crazy,
> but I found it to be a magical and special time. My
> thought is, if you aren't prepared to do your first flight,
> you should probably prepare yourself....get some additional
> training, or ask for 5 or 10 more hours of transition training,
> or do whatever you need to do to prepare. If you have done
> a good job flying with one of the transition training
> folk, you won't have any big problem with yours as long
> as you don't have a mechanical issue. And, it's also your
> job to do a good job building so that you can minimize
> your chances of mechanical issues. Most things are
> preventable, and having a few experienced sets of eyes
> inspect things with you can minimize your mechanical
> problems too. To date, I've never had the experience
> of watching my RV-10 depart from the earth without me
> in the front seat, let alone the airplane.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> Rene Felker wrote:
>> After 6 hours of transition training, I did my first flight in
>> Curious
>> George. I would want to have it any other way. It was my
>> airplane.....
>> I am one of those pilots that rates himself as below average....I
>> also suck
>> at sports....but I am confident in my skills. My first flight was
>> exciting
>> and I will remember it for the rest of my life. Flights of memory
>> in my life.... in order 1. First flight in airplane (teenage
>> friends dad's tripacer out of a hay
>> field)
>> 2. First flight in my RV-10 3. PPL check ride (note not my first
>> flight after......)
>> 4. Ride in backseat of an F-15 (WOW)
>> Note my number one......any Utah EAA members that want to do Young
>> Eagle
>> flights on Saturday, I was told last night that Chapter 58 has 60
>> kids
>> signed up and expect more. They are doing it in conjunction with
>> chapter 23
>> and the flights will be out of Ogden (KOGD) -- in conjunction with
>> the B-17
>> flights. (Sorry about the semi ad) I will be there in my RV-10,
>> last year
>> Scott was there also. I know I did four flights...12 passengers
>> and hope to
>> get in 5 or 6 this year.
>> Rene' Felker
>> RV-10 N423CF Flying
>> 801-721-6080
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: First Flights was Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyabili |
I second or third the value of the training with Alex. I felt very comfortable
with the RV-10 in after the training.
Alex's 10 has the Trutrak efis as the primary display, so the transition training
added to the comfort level with the AFS glass system.
I spent 10-15 hours with the AFS system powered up in the plane during building
and installation. I used a PC power supply as the power source allowing to unlimited
run times. This let me set up all the alarms and limits, test all the
connections. Tip the efis to simulate flight prior to taking the plane to the
airport. I highly recommend getting familiar with all displays on the ground.
As for the first flight, stick with the proven flight plans from vans and the FAA,
pick the right airport, check everything 4 times.
As for today I have 5 hours on my RV-10 with only a couple if minor squawks.
--------
eric gohr
EGOHR86@alumni.carnegiemellon.edu
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245731#245731
Message 19
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| Subject: | Off Topic: Name that Plane |
I received my latest version of the AOPA credit card last night. I was
excited to see it actually sported the image of an aircraft this time.
:)
Now I'm confused, what type of plane is it? It looks kinda like a
Dakota with a Sam James cowl mod...
I could use your help to settle a bet.
Here 's a photo of it that I found online.
Phil
Message 20
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| Subject: | glueing the doors |
I'm currently working on the doors, and have a suggestion for others to
consider,i.e., don't be in a hurry to glue them together. I am modifying
the doors with molded armrests/handles as well as Hendricks latches and
a hardpoint for a pull down strap in the forward part of the door, that
is strong enough to use as
a hold-onto strap for taxing with the door partially open, for airflow
(poor mans AC).
There is a CONSIDERABLE amount of modifications to the inner door
panels, to accomplish these changes, especially the latches. I can trim
the openings in the cabin top, and cut the doors as needed to
accommodate all the mods, with the doors clecoed and clamped together
while making measurements, and then take the halves apart to make all
the cuts and glass on the parts as needed. I can't imagine trying to do
all that with the doors glued together.
Chris Hukill
turning parts into HAZMAT
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
Les, thanks for the note! This morning we glued the pilots door halves
together. Attached is picture. You can see the tabs I used to hold the
bottom door tight to the fuselage. The door halves fit really well
together, and did fit the contour of the fuselage with the exception of
the very top where the hinges go. Also, the angle of the two halves was
different in the area of the third cleco up where the windshield will
be, and I just filled that with epoxy/milled fiber. All in all, the
gluing went well, but it was really messy!!!
Now comes the trimming/sanding/filling/sanding/contouring .....
Passenger door goes together next week!! ... Should be a whole lot
easier since I didn't trim the passenger side like the pilot side!!!
Linn
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Linn
>
> I am not sure if I understand your problem about the bottom of the door, but
> if I have got it right there may be a better solution for you.
SNIP!
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
Tim, I agree ..... My Pitts is 28 years old ...... and it's never gone
flying with me on the ground!!!
When I took my first flight, I'm not sure if I was really prepared, or
just in denial, but my Pitts landings turned out to be a non-event.
Fast forward 13 years later .... and I did an outside 1/2 loop on a
landing at Sun-n-fun. Formal training probably would have prevented
that because (as Curtis Pitts told me)I didn't know how to properly land
it!! It was an embarrassing and expensive education, but I'm still here
to relate.
For me, that first flight probably ranks up there with my wedding day,
kids and grandkids being born ...... put your big moments here.
Linn
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Unless someone is a real low time pilot, I can't imagine
> not doing my own first flight. Some may call that crazy,
> but I found it to be a magical and special time. My
> thought is, if you aren't prepared to do your first flight,
> you should probably prepare yourself....get some additional
> training, or ask for 5 or 10 more hours of transition training,
> or do whatever you need to do to prepare. If you have done
> a good job flying with one of the transition training
> folk, you won't have any big problem with yours as long
> as you don't have a mechanical issue. And, it's also your
> job to do a good job building so that you can minimize
> your chances of mechanical issues. Most things are
> preventable, and having a few experienced sets of eyes
> inspect things with you can minimize your mechanical
> problems too. To date, I've never had the experience
> of watching my RV-10 depart from the earth without me
> in the front seat, let alone the airplane.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Message 23
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| Subject: | Interior paint under upholstery? |
I'm nearing the point of being done with the interior aluminum and will be transisioning
to the fiberglass. I know a lot of people have painted their interior
at this point. My question is, do you really need to? I've primed all my interior
parts gray and plan on a grey interior from Flightline. I know that the
interior covers most of the interior structure and there is some minor painting
to be done. Is there any benefit to painting the whole thing vesus just the
portions that won't be covered? I'm thinking that I could save some weight (hey,
it adds up ) by just painting a few areas after I get the cabin top secured
and doors done. Any thoughts or experiences out there?
Thanks!
__________________
Todd
RV-10 #362
Message 24
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| Subject: | Interior paint under upholstery? |
Todd,
It appears that we are probably at similar points in the build. My opinion
would be to paint the interior now. I don't know what primer you used, but
I would guess that it probably requires a top coat. The top coat over the
primer will be a more effective sealer than just the primer. I used AKZO on
most of the parts. AKZO doesn't require a top coat, since it's a two part
epoxy, however, it needs to be covered with a more pleasant color. I'm
probably going to go with gray as well. I have some of the interior parts
primed with NAPA 7720, which does require a top coat.
As far as sequence of painting, I'm still contemplating the best approach.
I'm thinking that paint the aluminum before canopy attach and rudder
installation, but only those pieces that are visible. That way I don't have
to work about masking too many items. I suspect the canopy can be painted
before mounting to make life easier, although the whole canopy doesn't have
to be painted if you have a headliner. I imagine that painting with the
canopy on would create some real interesting overspray issues.
I would be interested in hearing from others as to what worked and didn't
work for them.
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Todd Agold
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 3:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Interior paint under upholstery?
I'm nearing the point of being done with the interior aluminum and will be
transisioning to the fiberglass. I know a lot of people have painted their
interior at this point. My question is, do you really need to? I've primed
all my interior parts gray and plan on a grey interior from Flightline. I
know that the interior covers most of the interior structure and there is
some minor painting to be done. Is there any benefit to painting the whole
thing vesus just the portions that won't be covered? I'm thinking that I
could save some weight (hey, it adds up
<http://www.vansairforce.com/community/images/smilies/wink.gif> ) by just
painting a few areas after I get the cabin top secured and doors done. Any
thoughts or experiences out there?
Thanks!
__________________
Todd
RV-10 #362
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Off Topic: Name that Plane |
The newer Pipers have the cowls with the round air inlets.
Not sure, but I think it's a fixed gear Saratoga.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245763#245763
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Off Topic: Name that Plane |
RV-15;)
----- Original Message -----
From: Perry, Phil
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 12:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Off Topic: Name that Plane
I received my latest version of the AOPA credit card last night. I
was excited to see it actually sported the image of an aircraft this
time. :)
Now I'm confused, what type of plane is it? It looks kinda like a
Dakota with a Sam James cowl mod...
I could use your help to settle a bet.
Here 's a photo of it that I found online.
Phil
Message 27
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| Subject: | Off Topic: Name that Plane |
This is a newer Cherokee 6
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 5:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Off Topic: Name that Plane
RV-15;)
----- Original Message -----
From: Perry, <mailto:Phil.Perry@netapp.com> Phil
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 12:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Off Topic: Name that Plane
I received my latest version of the AOPA credit card last night. I was
excited to see it actually sported the image of an aircraft this time.
:)
Now I'm confused, what type of plane is it? It looks kinda like a
Dakota
with a Sam James cowl mod...
I could use your help to settle a bet.
Here 's a photo of it that I found online.
<http://images.google.com/url?source=imgres&ct=tbn&q=http://www.kin
gschools.
com/otherimages/AOPA_card.gif&usg=AFQjCNFNKQrRmIWFLL7sGGboplx_sIJ47Q>
Phil
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Pilot Proficiency vs RV10 'flyability' |
I'll second what Tim said about the 1st flight in _your_ airplane, that
_you_ built. After 2 'false starts' at homebuilding, and delaying the
build for 25 years while the family grew and I attended to work. I don't
think there were too many nights when I went to bed that I didn't dream
about 'My 1st flight'. Strangely perhaps, a large part of the motivation
for building this airplane centered around that 1st trip down the
runway. I took 8.5 hours of Transition from Mike S. Had the opportunity
to fly another 2-3 hours in friends RV-10's. After dreaming about 'the
day' I'll admit to a whole bag of mixed emotions, anxiety being one of
the most dominant. When I pushed in the throttle pulled the stick back
and the plane just sort of magically levitated...... My 1st thought was
... Oh good I'm not going to die today ! As the engine & prop kept on
turning and the plane kept on climbing. The flood of joy, frequently
referred to as 'THE GRIN' swept its way through me. I orbited above the
airport for several circuits, trying REALLY hard to focus on temps, and
guages. Nonetheless I apparently missed at least one call from the
tower. I can vaguely remember the landing (I think) but in a couple more
months that will fade. The 1st TO however is etched permanently, and
while the event is now behind me, I relive it nearly every night just
before the last conscious thought of the day passes. With luck I'll have
that moment to carry with me for another 25 years.
Deems Davis
N519PJ 31.3 hrs and counting
Save us a place in the RV10 parking row @ OSH :-)
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Unless someone is a real low time pilot, I can't imagine
> not doing my own first flight. Some may call that crazy,
> but I found it to be a magical and special time. My
> thought is, if you aren't prepared to do your first flight,
> you should probably prepare yourself....get some additional
> training, or ask for 5 or 10 more hours of transition training,
> or do whatever you need to do to prepare. If you have done
> a good job flying with one of the transition training
> folk, you won't have any big problem with yours as long
> as you don't have a mechanical issue. And, it's also your
> job to do a good job building so that you can minimize
> your chances of mechanical issues. Most things are
> preventable, and having a few experienced sets of eyes
> inspect things with you can minimize your mechanical
> problems too. To date, I've never had the experience
> of watching my RV-10 depart from the earth without me
> in the front seat, let alone the airplane.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> Rene Felker wrote:
>>
>>
>> After 6 hours of transition training, I did my first flight in Curious
>> George. I would want to have it any other way. It was my airplane.....
>>
>> I am one of those pilots that rates himself as below average....I
>> also suck
>> at sports....but I am confident in my skills. My first flight was
>> exciting
>> and I will remember it for the rest of my life.
>> Flights of memory in my life.... in order
>> 1. First flight in airplane (teenage friends dad's tripacer out of a
>> hay
>> field)
>> 2. First flight in my RV-10 3. PPL check ride (note not my first
>> flight after......)
>> 4. Ride in backseat of an F-15 (WOW)
>>
>> Note my number one......any Utah EAA members that want to do Young Eagle
>> flights on Saturday, I was told last night that Chapter 58 has 60 kids
>> signed up and expect more. They are doing it in conjunction with
>> chapter 23
>> and the flights will be out of Ogden (KOGD) -- in conjunction with
>> the B-17
>> flights. (Sorry about the semi ad) I will be there in my RV-10, last
>> year
>> Scott was there also. I know I did four flights...12 passengers and
>> hope to
>> get in 5 or 6 this year.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rene' Felker
>> RV-10 N423CF Flying
>> 801-721-6080
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners |
Hi all,
I'm working off of revision 1 plans dated 05/28/2008 and am at the
part where I'm sliding the stiffeners between the bottom skin and the
bulkhead frames. The plans say to cut the J stiffeners to 50 5/8" and
to line up the marks at the front holes, and that the aft end of the
stiffener should be "captured" between the bottom skin and the F-1008
frame... my question is, yes, its captured, but it doesn't reach the
rivet hole in that back frame... is there supposed to be a rivet on
the back end, or is "captured" good enough? If there's supposed to be
a rivet, then either my skin is wrong or the plans are wrong... I even
re-measured them twice to make sure I wasn't seeing things.
thanks,
James
#40400
Assembling tailcone
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners |
Suggest looking at http://www.etigerrr.com/TailCone/TailCone_April_7.htm
and http://www.etigerrr.com/TailCone/tail_cone_april_23_2004.htm The
picture for step 2 shows correct positioning.
James Ochs wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm working off of revision 1 plans dated 05/28/2008 and am at the
> part where I'm sliding the stiffeners between the bottom skin and the
> bulkhead frames. The plans say to cut the J stiffeners to 50 5/8" and
> to line up the marks at the front holes, and that the aft end of the
> stiffener should be "captured" between the bottom skin and the F-1008
> frame... my question is, yes, its captured, but it doesn't reach the
> rivet hole in that back frame... is there supposed to be a rivet on
> the back end, or is "captured" good enough? If there's supposed to be
> a rivet, then either my skin is wrong or the plans are wrong... I even
> re-measured them twice to make sure I wasn't seeing things.
>
> thanks,
> James
> #40400
> Assembling tailcone
>
>
--
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners |
There's supposed to be a rivet. You sure one or both of the frames aren't
bowed? Make sure all the other frame/skin holes are aligned.
-Rob
On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 8:18 PM, James Ochs <jochs@froody.org> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm working off of revision 1 plans dated 05/28/2008 and am at the part
> where I'm sliding the stiffeners between the bottom skin and the bulkhead
> frames. The plans say to cut the J stiffeners to 50 5/8" and to line up the
> marks at the front holes, and that the aft end of the stiffener should be
> "captured" between the bottom skin and the F-1008 frame... my question is,
> yes, its captured, but it doesn't reach the rivet hole in that back frame...
> is there supposed to be a rivet on the back end, or is "captured" good
> enough? If there's supposed to be a rivet, then either my skin is wrong or
> the plans are wrong... I even re-measured them twice to make sure I wasn't
> seeing things.
>
> thanks,
> James
> #40400
> Assembling tailcone
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: UMPCs for the cockpit |
I have a samsung Q1 ultra, and it's mostly visible, but not always.
I'm building a 1600 nit screen with a capacitve touch sensor. Most of the resitive
sensors i looked at are rated for max 10000ft.
Has anyone ever had problems with resistive touch screens (most laptops tablets
& pdas use it) working at high altitude?
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245833#245833
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Interior paint under upholstery? |
I sprayed the entire interior. I decided it was going to take more time to figure
out what areas were not going to be covered by the Flightline interior and
mask it off, than it was to shoot the whole thing. Abby sent me a sample of the
material, and my local paint shop was able to mix a dead on match.
Jim Berry
40482 Weight & Balance
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245835#245835
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Question for the door experts (A followup observation) |
The doors while sexy when finished are the real Achilles heel of the 10.
The top hinge leaves a lot to be desired safety wise.
As a part of the build experience it is not fun. The door part leaves you anxious
and frustrated. I think that a front hinged, jig assembled door would be a
real step up for the RV10.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245839#245839
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners |
Ok. Operator error. I guess I'm either getting tired or need to go
back to tape measure school.
You know how something stares you in the face and you don't get it?
Well it turns out I cut them 50 and 5 hash marks on the tape, not 50
and 5/8's... the tape measure is marked in sixteenths. *goes very red
in face* At least all the others are right :P
back to vans web store for replacement parts.
do not archive
On May 28, 2009, at 8:52 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> There's supposed to be a rivet. You sure one or both of the frames
> aren't bowed? Make sure all the other frame/skin holes are aligned.
>
> -Rob
>
> On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 8:18 PM, James Ochs <jochs@froody.org> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm working off of revision 1 plans dated 05/28/2008 and am at the
> part where I'm sliding the stiffeners between the bottom skin and
> the bulkhead frames. The plans say to cut the J stiffeners to 50
> 5/8" and to line up the marks at the front holes, and that the aft
> end of the stiffener should be "captured" between the bottom skin
> and the F-1008 frame... my question is, yes, its captured, but it
> doesn't reach the rivet hole in that back frame... is there supposed
> to be a rivet on the back end, or is "captured" good enough? If
> there's supposed to be a rivet, then either my skin is wrong or the
> plans are wrong... I even re-measured them twice to make sure I
> wasn't seeing things.
> s.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ====
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Wings
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
I too found the scribe lines confusing. The doors are a big project and they will
never be as perfect as you want them. But do not worry too much about over-cutting
the door (except if you disturb the glue joint). You can always build
up the cabin top flange to meet the door with epoxy and F/G tape or tape/micro-baloons
combo.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=245842#245842
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners |
Don't feel bad. I don't think there are any of us that haven't made some
parts 2 or 3 times, until we get it right or can live with the results.
Whether it is measurements or not bending smoothly or band saw blade
breaks or drill or rivet gun slips, you just hope it is less expensive
parts and the shipping costs aren't too great.
Don't you wish you had already done the pre-emptive drill hole in finger
now?? ;-)
Kelly
40866
James Ochs wrote:
> Ok. Operator error. I guess I'm either getting tired or need to go
> back to tape measure school.
>
> You know how something stares you in the face and you don't get it?
> Well it turns out I cut them 50 and 5 hash marks on the tape, not 50
> and 5/8's... the tape measure is marked in sixteenths. *goes very red
> in face* At least all the others are right :P
>
> back to vans web store for replacement parts.
>
> do not archive
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners |
There are some mistakes that can be fixed without replacing the parts.
Look
at it as a repair. Using Acceptable Methods as a guide consider splicing
the
stiffener to make it the correct length.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tail cone bottom skin and stiffeners
Ok. Operator error. I guess I'm either getting tired or need to go
back to
tape measure school.
You know how something stares you in the face and you don't get it?
Well it
turns out I cut them 50 and 5 hash marks on the tape, not 50 and
5/8's...
the tape measure is marked in sixteenths. *goes very red in face* At
least
all the others are right :P
back to vans web store for replacement parts.
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