Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:20 AM - Re: Sun visors (David Maib)
2. 05:42 AM - Re: Glider flying, HuH!! (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
3. 07:15 AM - Re: Glider flying, HuH!! (Lenny Iszak)
4. 07:21 AM - Re: Re: Rudder/aileron Gust Lock (Rene Felker)
5. 07:43 AM - Re: Rudder/aileron gust lock (curtis groote)
6. 09:01 AM - Re: Heads Up On Wheel Pant Fiberglass Quality... (AirMike)
7. 09:22 AM - Re: Heads Up On Wheel Pant Fiberglass Quality... (Matt Dralle)
8. 10:16 AM - Re: Re: Dynon AP Flight Test (Andrew Johnson)
9. 12:13 PM - Re: Dynon AP Flight Test (woxofswa)
10. 12:57 PM - Re: Re: Rudder/aileron gust lock (Tim Olson)
11. 01:27 PM - Door glass/windows (aerosport1)
12. 01:37 PM - closing up the tailcone (James Ochs)
13. 02:15 PM - Re: closing up the tailcone (Kelly McMullen)
14. 03:09 PM - Re: Sam James Cowl (Thane States)
15. 04:05 PM - Re: closing up the tailcone (James Ochs)
16. 07:17 PM - Re: closing up the tailcone (Jim Berry)
17. 07:30 PM - Re: Door glass/windows (Jim Berry)
18. 07:43 PM - Re: Re: closing up the tailcone (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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I went with the Blue Sky visors that Alex DeDominices sells on his
site. http://www.aviationtechproducts.com/html/accessories.html
I am very happy with them and they are almost $200 less than the
Rosens. I think the Rosens are a bit more robust, but I think the
size of the Blue Sky visors is perfect in the -10
David Maib
40559
On Jun 5, 2009, at 5:23 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
Can anyone recommend a good sun visor for the 10? There are several
out there.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Glider flying, HuH!! |
that's what I thought it might be since I couldn't figure out how you
could do that dive below redline.
Having the ability to deploy at speeds up to redline can be very handy
if venturing too close to a big western CuNimb. In fact, I'm not sure
how else one gets away; redline or spoilers.
Anyway, thanks again for the video. Beats gliding down mountains in
those free fall suits.
John Gonzalez wrote:
> That was the alarm for the spoiler deployment with having the landing
> gear down. What I find interesting is that they were flying at 120+
> knots with the spoilers open so that they could better follow the
> terrain without building even more airspeed...but in my glider, I
> believe it is prohibited to open or have open spoilers at that speed.
>
> > Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2009 14:16:54 -0400
> > From: MauleDriver@nc.rr.com
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glider flying, HuH!!
> >
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> >
> > Great stuff!
> >
> > The audio set off my airsickness button though. I used to airsick so
> > often when competing that the mere sound of the audio turns my stomach.
> >
> > Having said that, what was the other klaxon that went off when the dive
> > down the valley started? Just not familiar with that sound.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > John Gonzalez wrote:
> >> Just thought you all might find this interesting. This is Mount
> >> Whitney California, 14,500' ASL, where I soar almost every weekend in
> >> the summer months.
> >>
> >> I am only sharing this, this is not me piloting the glider, nor am I
> >> endorsing this type of flying. In soaring cross country, we are always
> >> thinking about many things, like where to land if we can't make the
> >> next airport, not getting into a box canyon where we cant get out,
> >> where the lift is, what kind of lift etc. We often times are close to
> >> terrain, but normally we don't put ourselves on purpose into this type
> >> of gliding. Indeed, I have been in those canyons, albiet a little
> >> higher, but trying to climb up and out, always having the ability to
> >> glide down and out, but *altitude* is everything in soaring and IMO
> >> should be in any flying. Anyway enjoy this crazy guy's adventure who
> >> lived to see another day. I was flying in the area on that day, but
> >> away from the overdevelopment you see in the video.
> >>
> >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjTmNJmJXbk
> >>
> >> John #409 faring in the gear fairings.
> >> *
> >>
> >>
> >> *
> >
> > <==================
> >
> >
> >
> *
>
>
> *
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Glider flying, HuH!! |
Beats this? [Shocked] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27QHQVCtWts
Lenny
MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com wrote:
> that's what I thought it might be since I couldn't figure out how you
> could do that dive below redline.
>
> Having the ability to deploy at speeds up to redline can be very handy
> if venturing too close to a big western CuNimb. In fact, I'm not sure
> how else one gets away; redline or spoilers.
>
> Anyway, thanks again for the video. Beats gliding down mountains in
> those free fall suits.
>
>
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247080#247080
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder/aileron Gust Lock |
Here is the gust lock I am using. Seems to work great. Light and small.
http://www.aviationtechproducts.com/html/products_pics.html
One or two items down the page. It is getting a workout here in Reno as I
write this.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Saturday, June 06, 2009 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder/aileron Gust Lock
It's made of aluminum tubing.... the feet are dipped in a plastic bath....
and to use it as an aileron lock all you need is a short piece (6") of
velcro.... wrap it around the gust lock and the stick. The spring loaded
pin is there just so it can be stored as a shorter unit. You can put as
many holes as you'd like, or just one that compresses the spring all the
way.
Because I needed one quickly, I also made a pvc unit. It worked well, but
was heavy, bulky, and uglier than sh%&.
I installed it today and then went to the back of the plane and shook the
heck out of the rudder just to see if I could shake it loose.... no problem,
it hung right in there.
The other advantage is that you will NEVER be able to take off and forget to
remove it..... no matter how oblivious you may be.
Don
--- On Fri, 6/5/09, lbgjb10 <lbgjb@gnt.net> wrote:
From: lbgjb10 <lbgjb@gnt.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder/aileron Gust Lock
<http://us.mc05g.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=lbgjb@gnt.net> >
also, what's it made of??
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/vie
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247030#247030>
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" sp;--> http://f
<http://forums.matronics.com/> - List Contributionsp;
&bsp;--> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder/aileron gust lock |
I've had a rudder lock (ATP) for some while now and it works great. -Howe
ver, use caution when connecting it by a velcro strip to the stick for an a
ileron lock. -In gentle or moderate winds/gusts it'll do okay, but if the
re are significant gusts you'll find your whole contraption on the floor ha
ving been loosened by the strong side force of the stick.=0A=0A=0A
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Heads Up On Wheel Pant Fiberglass Quality... |
Their Q/C seems to be inconsistent. Some parts are really good on my kit, some
are mediocre, and some are awful - especially the wing root fairings. I saw a
fellow EAA members doors a few weeks ago for a Lancair and I must say that the
difference is dramatic. The Lancair parts are really high quality and very impressive.
It is my impression from talking to Vans that pricing (keeping the kits
reasonably priced) plays a big part in the operation. It is tough to argue
with that philosophy, but you pay for it in wasted build time on crappy fiberglass
parts. I guess that you always have to option to fabricate yourself or go
to the Sam James cowl.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247088#247088
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Heads Up On Wheel Pant Fiberglass Quality... |
Well, the irony of "keeping the cost down" is that I personally would gladly pay
twice as much for fiberglass kit parts, if they were of the finest quality possible.
Oh, wait, I just DID pay twice for my wheel pants... :-)
Seriously, though, we RV builders are Metal workers and pretty much all of us detest
this fiberglass sillyness. If I wanted to work with fiberglass, I'd of
built a Lancair. I think anything Van's can do to minimize the amount of fiberglass
work (or rework as the case may be) is worth any incremental cost on their/our
part.
How much extra would you be willing to pay to simply take the cowling out of the
box, for example, and just be able to bolt it on to the front of the fuselage
and be done? I'd pay double the current price of that fiberglass part.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Finishing Up Wheel Pant, Digging Out The Wings...
At 08:56 AM 6/6/2009 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>Their Q/C seems to be inconsistent. Some parts are really good on my kit, some
are mediocre, and some are awful - especially the wing root fairings. I saw a
fellow EAA members doors a few weeks ago for a Lancair and I must say that the
difference is dramatic. The Lancair parts are really high quality and very impressive.
It is my impression from talking to Vans that pricing (keeping the
kits reasonably priced) plays a big part in the operation. It is tough to argue
with that philosophy, but you pay for it in wasted build time on crappy fiberglass
parts. I guess that you always have to option to fabricate yourself or
go to the Sam James cowl.
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247088#247088
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon AP Flight Test |
Have you tested the Dynon system yet? I'm very curious to see how it
works...
Andy Johnson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Dynon AP Flight Test
>
> I believe they are always in the loop, but don't exercise any force
> unless they are turned on. They do, however, have drag on the controls,
> just like the TruTrak. I took out the TruTrak servos and installed the
> Dynon servos for the testing, so I don't expect there would have been a
> noticeable change. I haven't worked the controls without an autopilot
> servo connected in a long time, so I can't help much there. They
> certainly don't create a great deal of drag, but I would say they would
> be equivalent to the TruTrak.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Jun 4, 2009, at 2:24 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
>>
>> Are the dynon servos always in the control loop, like the TruTrak's, or
>> do they have a release clutch, like the Trio? If the former, could you
>> detect any change in control pressures before and after installation?
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246806#246806
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon AP Flight Test |
Thanks for the update. I am right at the pitch servo mount stage. Did you manufacture
your own or did you find a ready made piece that worked?
TIA
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247104#247104
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder/aileron gust lock |
I'd stick with the seat belts to secure the ailerons. (Actually
it's good for the elevator too. I'm a little leery of the
spring loaded rudder gust locks because if it isn't a locked-in-place
setup, the wind could blow the gust lock compressed and then it could
pop out. I've known people parked in 40+ mph winds that
had problems in the past. So a solid locking method would be good.
My gust lock isn't pretty, but with an added strap from the fork
to the stick, I am able to neutralize the ailerons, provide
a solid lock to the rudders, and neutralize the elevator too.
It could be built prettier, but I really like the function.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
curtis groote wrote:
> I've had a rudder lock (ATP) for some while now and it works great.
> However, use caution when connecting it by a velcro strip to the stick
> for an aileron lock. In gentle or moderate winds/gusts it'll do okay,
> but if there are significant gusts you'll find your whole contraption on
> the floor having been loosened by the strong side force of the stick.
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Door glass/windows |
I am in the process of installing my windows in the doors and the windows are
.165 to .1875 thick and do not fit the window channel. They are almost .04 to
.060 to thick. It seems that these should be the same thickness as the rear windows
which were .120 to .140. Has anyone else had this issue? If I try to sand
down the shelf the window sits on I will sand almost or will go through the
external door skin. At this thickness
there would be no good way to blend these into the outer door skins.
Geoff
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Finishing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247108#247108
Message 12
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| Subject: | closing up the tailcone |
Hi all,
I'm getting to the point of starting to rivet the tailcone and I want
to put in all the necessary stuff for pulling wires/tubes, etc as
early as possible. I have a big roll of innerduct like Tim O used,
and I'd like to get that in place now. I'm not so concerned about the
battery area stuff since it's right at the front of the tailcone, but
I'd prefer not to be crawling around inside it later... so if someone
could point me to some pics (or text) of the following items, I'd
appreciate it.
1) How does the tail strobe wiring (and electric trim wiring) get from
the tailcone to the rudder? The rear spar on the VS is solid and so
is the rear bulkhead on the tailcone, and once through that how do you
get it into the rudder in a way that is not going to create stress on
the wires when the rudder moves? I'm also considering a camera in the
top of the VS, are there any issues with securing the fiberglass bits
with nutplates and screws rather than riveting it on?
2) On the static plumbing I understand the recommended method is to go
up from one static port, over the top, hit a T with the plumbing going
forward and then continue down to the other static port. Is it better
to run the plumbing forward on the right or left side or does it
matter? I also noticed there are a series of small holes arcing over
the top in the bulkhead closest to the static ports... can I use those
for securing the static line with zip-ties or do they serve some
purpose that I am not aware of? Also, someone asked me a question
that I hadn't thought about which was "are you going to put a drain in
the static line?" and I didn't have an answer... what is your opinion
on that? I'm using the safeair1 system with the alternate static
option if that matters.
3) Is there any other wiring/plumbing or anything else that needs to
go to the back of the tailcone? Antennas, etc? If I am putting
antennas back there then do the antenna wires need to be kept separate
from the other wires for any reason? Are there some recommendations
on where to put doublers in now even if I don't have the antenna(e)?
4) As far as putting foam down for sound proofing, is there any needed
in the tailcone, or does that all go into the cabin area?
5) Lastly, I've been looking through the archives and trying to look
at the plans but I am not totally clear on where the rudder cables run
and I don't want to put the inner duct through a lightening hole if
that is where my rudder cable is going to go... where is it safe to
run that stuff? Also, I don't really want to go randomly making new
holes without knowing that its not going to affect the structural
integrity
Apologies if this has all been hashed and re-hashed already, I'm just
not finding the answers ;)
Thanks,
James
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: closing up the tailcone |
IMHO, you are worrying too much about getting stuff in early. You will need
someone to crawl in to rivet the top skin to the ribs anyway. It isn't that
long a reach. Just closed mine in a few weeks ago. Other than riveting the
static ports in place, I just followed the plans.
On Sat, Jun 6, 2009 at 1:25 PM, James Ochs <jochs@froody.org> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm getting to the point of starting to rivet the tailcone and I want to
> put in all the necessary stuff for pulling wires/tubes, etc as early as
> possible. I have a big roll of innerduct like Tim O used, and I'd like to
> get that in place now. I'm not so concerned about the battery area stuff
> since it's right at the front of the tailcone, but I'd prefer not to be
> crawling around inside it later... so if someone could point me to some pics
> (or text) of the following items, I'd appreciate it.
>
> 1) How does the tail strobe wiring (and electric trim wiring) get from the
> tailcone to the rudder? The rear spar on the VS is solid and so is the rear
> bulkhead on the tailcone, and once through that how do you get it into the
> rudder in a way that is not going to create stress on the wires when the
> rudder moves? I'm also considering a camera in the top of the VS, are there
> any issues with securing the fiberglass bits with nutplates and screws
> rather than riveting it on?
>
> 2) On the static plumbing I understand the recommended method is to go up
> from one static port, over the top, hit a T with the plumbing going forward
> and then continue down to the other static port. Is it better to run the
> plumbing forward on the right or left side or does it matter? I also
> noticed there are a series of small holes arcing over the top in the
> bulkhead closest to the static ports... can I use those for securing the
> static line with zip-ties or do they serve some purpose that I am not aware
> of? Also, someone asked me a question that I hadn't thought about which was
> "are you going to put a drain in the static line?" and I didn't have an
> answer... what is your opinion on that? I'm using the safeair1 system with
> the alternate static option if that matters.
>
> 3) Is there any other wiring/plumbing or anything else that needs to go to
> the back of the tailcone? Antennas, etc? If I am putting antennas back
> there then do the antenna wires need to be kept separate from the other
> wires for any reason? Are there some recommendations on where to put
> doublers in now even if I don't have the antenna(e)?
>
> 4) As far as putting foam down for sound proofing, is there any needed in
> the tailcone, or does that all go into the cabin area?
>
> 5) Lastly, I've been looking through the archives and trying to look at the
> plans but I am not totally clear on where the rudder cables run and I don't
> want to put the inner duct through a lightening hole if that is where my
> rudder cable is going to go... where is it safe to run that stuff? Also, I
> don't really want to go randomly making new holes without knowing that its
> not going to affect the structural integrity
>
> Apologies if this has all been hashed and re-hashed already, I'm just not
> finding the answers ;)
>
> Thanks,
> James
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Sam James Cowl |
I have to agree with all the comments about the James cowl and plenum
install. I would have to say that I do have a solid 180 kts. airplane,
but I don't know if the advertised speed gains are valid from James.
I also have the James wheel pants.
The install of the cowl was as easy as Vans except when it came to
fabricating the airbox from scratch. But like Robin I did not have to
modify the clean look of the cowl intake. The plenum was as Deems said
very rough and needed a great deal of mods and re-work.
I would go the same route again if not for a better looking cowl, but
the possibility of some added speed.
I have had no cooling issues. Oil temp 180's, all CHT's in the 350's-
380's. Now when the temps in the south come up I will have a little
higher temps in the climb, but still able to cool it down in cruise.
BTW, I am running the BPE. 540; 288 hp.CAI. and love the power and
smoothness. Great engine.
Thane States
65 hrs. flown
----- Original Message -----
From: pilotdds@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 2:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Sam James Cowl
Looking for feedback from those of you flying with the James
cowl.Specificaly how hard was the install,how are the oil temps and
where did you mount the oil cooler.Would you do it again?
Thanks-Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: fixitauto@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 5:33 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
Jesse
What did you use for pitch control servo mounting brackets?
-----Original Message-----
From: Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 7:51 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Dynon Autopilot
For those who will be going with a more budget-level panel and might
be considering a Dynon EFIS and Autopilot, I just installed the Dynon
servos today and will be test flying it tomorrow. I will report on how
well it handles the plane, especially compared to the TruTrak line that
I am very familiar with. The installation of the servos was very simple
and the wiring was even easier. I am impressed so far. Now we'll see
how it flies.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America Takes it Off to learn how.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America Takes it Off to learn how.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: closing up the tailcone |
Heh, you are probably right... it's just how I am. I just figure it's
better to get it all done now and have to crawl in once to button up
the top than to have to drag a bunch of drills, rivet guns and
whatever else down there half a dozen times, especially if I have to
make any big holes for the innerduct or try to rivet doubler plates in
the bottom skin, both of which I think are much more easily done now
than when I'm squeezed into a space that's too tight for me to begin
with.
do not archive
thanks,
James
On Jun 6, 2009, at 2:11 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> IMHO, you are worrying too much about getting stuff in early. You
> will need someone to crawl in to rivet the top skin to the ribs
> anyway. It isn't that long a reach. Just closed mine in a few weeks
> ago. Other than riveting the static ports in place, I just followed
> the plans.
>
> On Sat, Jun 6, 2009 at 1:25 PM, James Ochs <jochs@froody.org> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm getting to the point of starting to rivet the tailcone and I
> want to put in all the necessary stuff for pulling wires/tubes, etc
> as early as possible. I have a big roll of innerduct like Tim O
> used, and I'd like to get that in place now. I'm not so concerned
> about the battery area stuff since it's right at the front of the
> tailcone, but I'd prefer not to be crawling around inside it
> later... so if someone could point me to some pics (or text) of the
> following items, I'd appreciate it.
>
> 1) How does the tail strobe wiring (and electric trim wiring) get
> from the tailcone to the rudder? The rear spar on the VS is solid
> and so is the rear bulkhead on the tailcone, and once through that
> how do you get it into the rudder in a way that is not going to
> create stress on the wires when the rudder moves? I'm also
> considering a camera in the top of the VS, are there any issues with
> securing the fiberglass bits with nutplates and screws rather than
> riveting it on?
>
> 2) On the static plumbing I understand the recommended method is to
> go up from one static port, over the top, hit a T with the plumbing
> going forward and then continue down to the other static port. Is
> it better to run the plumbing forward on the right or left side or
> does it matter? I also noticed there are a series of small holes
> arcing over the top in the bulkhead closest to the static ports...
> can I use those for securing the static line with zip-ties or do
> they serve some purpose that I am not aware of? Also, someone asked
> me a question that I hadn't thought about which was "are you going
> to put a drain in the static line?" and I didn't have an answer...
> what is your opinion on that? I'm using the safeair1 system with
> the alternate static option if that matters.
>
> 3) Is there any other wiring/plumbing or anything else that needs to
> go to the back of the tailcone? Antennas, etc? If I am putting
> antennas back there then do the antenna wires need to be kept
> separate from the other wires for any reason? Are there some
> recommendations on where to put doublers in now even if I don't have
> the antenna(e)?
>
> 4) As far as putting foam down for sound proofing, is there any
> needed in the tailcone, or does that all go into the cabin area?
>
> 5) Lastly, I've been looking through the archives and trying to look
> at the plans but I am not totally clear on where the rudder cables
> run and I don't want to put the inner duct through a lightening hole
> if that is where my rudder cable is going to go... where is it safe
> to run that stuff? Also, I don't really want to go randomly making
> new holes without knowing that its not going to affect the
> structural integrity
>
> Apologies if this has all been hashed and re-hashed already, I'm
> just not finding the answers ;)
>
> Thanks,
> James
>
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> ==========
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Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: closing up the tailcone |
James,
Kelly is right, it is not a big deal. But there are some things you could do now
to save a little crawling around later. Everything I suggest below can/should
be done after the tail cone is riveted, but before the tail cone is riveted
to the fuselage.
I ran 2 parallel lengths of duct from the bulkhead just aft of the baggage bulkhead
to the bulkhead just forward of the aft-most bulkhead. Sorry I can't reference
part numbers, but I am not near my plans. One duct would have been adequate.
Install a pull cord in every duct.Generally there is no need to separate
strobe or antenna wiring , assuming you use quality coax and proper technique.
The rudder cables run through the bottom of each bulkhead, so they do not interfere
with wiring. Later on Van's will have you drill a hole through the aft
bulkhead and VS spar for the tail strobe and nav light wiring.
If you want a static drain port, the tail cone is probably not the place. You want
it at the low point of your static plumbing, and easily accessible.
If you want your strobe power pack and/or elt mounted in the tail cone, I would
install the mounting brackets now. If you want antennas mounted in your tail
cone I would install the doublers now while you have easy access to both sides
of the skins(especially if you rivet without a helper).
As far as riveting the tail cone, I would recommend back riveting the top 3 J-channels
to the top aft skin before riveting the skin to the bulkheads(to eliminate
smileys in a very visible skin). I was able to back rivet my entire tail
cone, with the exception of about a dozen of the most aft rivets. If I recall
Deems liked that method, but Kelly did not. If you decide to buck the rivets,
some people have found it easier to suspend the tail cone from the ceiling, big
end down. That way your bucking partner can stand inside the cone, rather than
crawl around inside.
When you get the tail cone riveted to the rest of the fuselage, you are going to
discover that in spite of your planning you are going to have to crawl in the
tail cone for something anyway. A couple of 2 x 6's about 3 feet long, placed
on the bottom of the bulkheads will give you enough support to crawl all the
way back.
Jim Berry
40482
Getting ready for the DAR.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247143#247143
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Door glass/windows |
Geoff,
Other than smoothing the outer face of the window channel, I would not remove any
material trying to make the outer face of the window flush with the door. Most/all
of the window edge will stand proud of the door. I think most people have
found more variability with the rear windows i.e. in some places the window
is proud(high) and in other places the cabin top is proud. Welcome to the world
of body working Van's quality fiberglass products to make it all pretty. Flox,
micro and hours of sanding will bring it all to the same level(eventually).
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247146#247146
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: closing up the tailcone |
I did back rivet the stiffeners to the top aft skin. That was super. I did
not back rivet the ribs to the top skin. Those were bucked, which worked
very nicely, other than bucker having to crawl in. I lined bottom skin with
a sleeping bag and a piece of plywood to protect stuff. Most of the rest of
tail cone was back riveted except for longerons which I did with pneumatic
squeezer.
On Sat, Jun 6, 2009 at 7:16 PM, Jim Berry <jimberry@qwest.net> wrote:
>
>
> As far as riveting the tail cone, I would recommend back riveting the top
> 3 J-channels to the top aft skin before riveting the skin to the
> bulkheads(to eliminate smileys in a very visible skin). I was able to back
> rivet my entire tail cone, with the exception of about a dozen of the most
> aft rivets. If I recall Deems liked that method, but Kelly did not. \<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
>
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