Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 11:04 AM - Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance (Walt Fuller)
2. 11:22 AM - Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance (Miller John)
3. 11:39 AM - Cabin hinge bolt clearnce (Dsyvert@aol.com)
4. 11:44 AM - Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance (Dave Saylor)
5. 02:03 PM - Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance (Susan)
6. 02:51 PM - Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance (Robin Marks)
7. 03:27 PM - window fitting - gap between flange and plexi (Rob Kochman)
8. 03:47 PM - Re: Cabin hinge bolt clearance (Les Kearney)
9. 03:48 PM - Hot weather (lbgjb10)
10. 03:59 PM - Re: Starter replacement (McGann, Ron)
11. 04:14 PM - Re: Starter replacement (Kelly McMullen)
12. 04:14 PM - Re: Hot weather (Deems Davis)
13. 04:17 PM - Two Birds (McGann, Ron)
14. 04:39 PM - Re: Bonaco Fuel lines - selector to wing (Bob Turner)
15. 04:39 PM - Re: Starter replacement (David McNeill)
16. 04:40 PM - Re: Hot weather (Kelly McMullen)
17. 04:44 PM - Re: window fitting - gap between flange and plexi (Bob Turner)
18. 04:45 PM - Re: window fitting - gap between flange and plexi (Lew Gallagher)
19. 05:12 PM - Re: Bonaco Fuel lines - selector to wing (William Curtis)
20. 06:48 PM - Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance (Jim)
21. 07:05 PM - Re: window fitting - gap between flange and plexi (John Ackerman)
22. 07:20 PM - Re: Starter replacement (Patrick Thyssen)
23. 07:25 PM - Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance (Dave Saylor)
24. 07:32 PM - Re: Two Birds (Dave Saylor)
25. 07:48 PM - Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
26. 07:49 PM - Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance (Walt Fuller)
27. 07:52 PM - Re: Bonaco Fuel lines - selector to wing (Bob Turner)
28. 08:24 PM - Re: Starter replacement (Fred Williams, M.D.)
29. 09:07 PM - Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance (Deems Davis)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
Hello all,
My name is Walt Fuller and I am a new member of this forum. My father
(capt. delta retired, 757-767 ) and I are currently in the final year of construction
of one of Van's RV 10 homebuilts. My father opted
to install modified sick grips complete with trim controls, autopilot, com
buttons. The specs call for 30 degrees of up elevator and 25 degrees down. We "zeroed"
the calibration tool and found that the 30 degree up elevator was right
on the money. However, the stick grips bottomed out on the instrument panel
when full forward stick was applied, with only about 20 degrees of down elevator.
With the airflow controls pulled fully out ( alternate air, etc.), we got
less than 18 degrees of down elevator!
We attempted to make some adjustments to the eye bolts between the
torque tubes and gained some down elevator but lost the up elevator.
Even with the stick grips off, the sticks still hit the airflow controls before
the 25 degree down was reached. I think our only option is to cut the sticks down
to allow the top of the grips to pass under the panel. Has anyone else run
into this scenario and is there an adjustment that can be made? Thank you for
your response.
p.s. We built, flew, and sold one of Van's rv 4's back in the late '80's - early
'90's ...N52FK A very fun airplane!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249364#249364
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
Does your panel stick out past where it's designed?
I have infinity grips on my sticks, sticks not cut down, and the only
thing one stick grip hits is my flaps switch on the panel.
No problem with any elevator authority, so you must have done
something different with how far your panel sticks out.
All my pull out controls are in the center of the panel over the
tunnel, so no way to interfere with the sticks.
grumpy
N184JM
do not archive
On Jun 21, 2009, at 1:03 PM, Walt Fuller wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> My name is Walt Fuller and I am a new member of this
> forum. My father (capt. delta retired, 757-767 ) and I are currently
> in the final year of construction of one of Van's RV 10 homebuilts.
> My father opted
> to install modified sick grips complete with trim controls,
> autopilot, com
> buttons. The specs call for 30 degrees of up elevator and 25 degrees
> down. We "zeroed" the calibration tool and found that the 30 degree
> up elevator was right on the money. However, the stick grips
> bottomed out on the instrument panel when full forward stick was
> applied, with only about 20 degrees of down elevator. With the
> airflow controls pulled fully out ( alternate air, etc.), we got
> less than 18 degrees of down elevator!
> We attempted to make some adjustments to the eye bolts between the
> torque tubes and gained some down elevator but lost the up elevator.
> Even with the stick grips off, the sticks still hit the airflow
> controls before
> the 25 degree down was reached. I think our only option is to cut
> the sticks down to allow the top of the grips to pass under the
> panel. Has anyone else run into this scenario and is there an
> adjustment that can be made? Thank you for your response.
> p.s. We built, flew, and sold one of Van's rv 4's back in the late
> '80's - early '90's ...N52FK A very fun airplane!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249364#249364
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Cabin hinge bolt clearnce |
I am putting the doors on the fuselage and find that the head of the bolts
that are cut off to make pins for the hinge are too close to the side and
maintain the 1/8" clearance . Has anyone else had this problem? I am
thinking 1) shaving the head of the pin (bolt) to maintain the 1/8" clearance,
2)
move the hinges laterally slightly for a small offset or 3) shave part of
the fiberglass to make room for the head of the bolt.
Dave Syvertson
40625
Finishing Kit
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
JunestepsfooterNO62)
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
I initially used the stock panel and bracket for the engine controls with
Van's wood grips. I could not get full travel on the left stick without
hitting the alt air knob. So I moved the bracket to the right about 1", and
found then that the right stick would actually get caught on the left side
of the prop control. The wood grips are as low as possible.
I finally installed the throttle quadrant, which is quite a bit narrower,
and that solved everything.
Dave
On Sun, Jun 21, 2009 at 11:03 AM, Walt Fuller <w_fuller1@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> My name is Walt Fuller and I am a new member of this forum. My
> father (capt. delta retired, 757-767 ) and I are currently in the final year
> of construction of one of Van's RV 10 homebuilts. My father opted
> to install modified sick grips complete with trim controls, autopilot, com
> buttons. The specs call for 30 degrees of up elevator and 25 degrees down.
> We "zeroed" the calibration tool and found that the 30 degree up elevator
> was right on the money. However, the stick grips bottomed out on the
> instrument panel when full forward stick was applied, with only about 20
> degrees of down elevator. With the airflow controls pulled fully out (
> alternate air, etc.), we got less than 18 degrees of down elevator!
> We attempted to make some adjustments to the eye bolts between the
> torque tubes and gained some down elevator but lost the up elevator.
> Even with the stick grips off, the sticks still hit the airflow controls
> before
> the 25 degree down was reached. I think our only option is to cut the
> sticks down to allow the top of the grips to pass under the panel. Has
> anyone else run into this scenario and is there an adjustment that can be
> made? Thank you for your response.
> p.s. We built, flew, and sold one of Van's rv 4's back in the late '80's -
> early '90's ...N52FK A very fun airplane!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249364#249364
>
>
--
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
I am using the CH grips. I adjusted the elevator travel prior to
installing the grips. Installing the grips required cutting the
vertical portion of the stick off as far down as possible then mounting
the CH grips. I also have a row of toggle switches across the stock
Vans panel support.
My sticks do contact the switches when
pushed forward. I will say that in 75 hours of flight, I have never
even been anywhere close to the panel with the stick. I am happy
with the height of the sticks and the position at neutral. I do get
full up elevator and roll deflection.
I think the only way to
solve the "Problem" is to make new metal control sticks or
rebend the existing ones. I could do this but so far have resisted
trying to fix this. I know that bumping the switches with the stick
could be a problem but as long as it does not jam anything, I think I am
ok it the way it is.
Now someone else on this forum may raise a
valid reason for fixing the problem but I like the current stick positions
relative to my seated position. I tend to fly the airplane with my
hand resting on my leg and just using my finger tips at the base of the
stick for control. (Hold comments - Please!) but it works well for me.
I think that if you had that much forward stick in flight
something pretty wild is going on and you will be having other issues to
contend with.
Just MY Opinion.
Jim Combs
N312F
Do Not Archive
-->
RV10-List message posted by: "Walt Fuller"
<w_fuller1@verizon.net>
Hello all,
My
name is Walt Fuller and I am a new member of this forum.
My father
(capt. delta retired, 757-767 ) and I are currently
in the final year
of construction of one of Van's RV 10
homebuilts. My father opted
to install modified sick grips complete with trim controls, autopilot,
com
buttons. The specs call for 30 degrees of up elevator and 25
degrees down.
We "zeroed" the calibration tool and found
that the 30 degree up elevator
was right on the money. However, the
stick grips bottomed out on the
instrument panel when full forward
stick was applied, with only about 20
degrees of down elevator. With
the airflow controls pulled fully out (
alternate air, etc.), we got
less than 18 degrees of down elevator!
We attempted to make some
adjustments to the eye bolts between the
torque tubes and gained some
down elevator but lost the up elevator.
Even with the stick grips
off, the sticks still hit the airflow controls
before
the 25
degree down was reached. I think our only option is to cut the
sticks
down to allow the top of the grips to pass under the panel. Has
anyone else run into this scenario and is there an adjustment that can
be
made? Thank you for your response.
p.s. We built, flew, and
sold one of Van's rv 4's back in the late '80's -
early '90's
...N52FK A very fun airplane!
Read this
topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249364#249364
- The RV10-List Email Forum -
Features Navigator to browse
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generous support!
Admin.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
Walt Welcome to the forum and good luck with your final year of
building.
This is a common issue and our solution after adding large head infinity
grips and a custom panel was to bend both sticks in a press to add a
touch more curvature. This was surprisingly simple and we were able to
completely clear all obstructions w/o changing the feel of the control
in ones hand. The one downside is our stick turned completely blue.
Robin
Message 7
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| Subject: | window fitting - gap between flange and plexi |
I trimmed one of the rear windows to fit. It looks great on the outside,
but on the inside there's a considerable gap (maybe 1/16") between the plexi
and the window flange in places. Is this okay? Does the weld-on fill this
gap, or am I doing something wrong?
Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 8
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| Subject: | Cabin hinge bolt clearance |
Dave
I had the same issue. I just used my Dremel to make enough clearance for the
bolt and to allow enough movement to get the right alignment.
The amount of f/g removed was very little.
Cheers
Les
#40643
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dsyvert@aol.com
Sent: June-21-09 12:38 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin hinge bolt clearnce
I am putting the doors on the fuselage and find that the head of the bolts
that are cut off to make pins for the hinge are too close to the side and
maintain the 1/8" clearance . Has anyone else had this problem? I am
thinking 1) shaving the head of the pin (bolt) to maintain the 1/8"
clearance, 2) move the hinges laterally slightly for a small offset or 3)
shave part of the fiberglass to make room for the head of the bolt.
Dave Syvertson
40625
Finishing Kit
_____
A Good Credit
Score3000x1201367220/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.as
px?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=JunestepsfooterNO62>See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
Message 9
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Not blessed with A/C--it's hot and sweaty flying in Florida. Love the leather
sets, but has anyone found a material that one can temp. cover the leather to
prevent hot sweaty pilots form soaking the leather!!!! hot and toasty larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249411#249411
Message 10
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| Subject: | Starter replacement |
For those flying, I would be keen to know how many more issues of
insufficient starter torque have been reported. I regularly need to
hold the starter engaged for several seconds before the engine is pushed
through compression (when the engine is cold). I was about to relace
the concorde battery with an odyssey, but perhaps I need a higher torque
starter??
Cheers
Ron
VH-XRM
Flying in Oz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
Edgerton
Sent: Friday, 19 June 2009 11:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Starter replacement
I don't know if any of you had the problem that I had with the starter
or not. We installed the engine in 2005 with a Sky-Tec High Torque HT
starter, which supposedly was the best one they had back then. Anyway,
whenever I would do a cold start of the engine the prop would make about
a half revolution and stop, like it didn't have enough power to it. I
would then try again and it would turn fine.
Another RV friend of mine on my field told me about a new starter that
Sky-Tec came out with that took less volts and turned the prop slower.
It's a High Torque in Line NL. This friend was having the same problem
with his 7, which has high compression pistons. We both switched to this
new NL starter and it solved our problem. The new starter weighed a
little bit more than my old one, something like a pound. I live in TX,
so cold isn't a problem but I fly up into the cold country and was
worried I wasn't going to get started on some cold day.
Sky-Tec are really good people located right here near me in Granbury,
TX and they took my old starter in on trade against the new one and it
cost me $250 to upgrade. I thought that was a pretty good deal.
Anyway I just thought I would pass this along in case any of you are
experiencing the same problem as I had.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT
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strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted without
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written permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in error,
or
are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by return
email,
delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any printed
copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient should not be deemed
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Starter replacement |
You need to use the Skytec troubleshooting chart to determine if you are
getting sufficient voltage to the starter. Flyweight starters such as
the Skytec PM series have the highest current draw and least amount of
starting torque.
McGann, Ron wrote:
>
> For those flying, I would be keen to know how many more issues of
> insufficient starter torque have been reported. I regularly need to
> hold the starter engaged for several seconds before the engine is pushed
> through compression (when the engine is cold). I was about to relace
> the concorde battery with an odyssey, but perhaps I need a higher torque
> starter??
>
> Cheers
> Ron
> VH-XRM
> Flying in Oz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
> Edgerton
> Sent: Friday, 19 June 2009 11:52 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Starter replacement
>
> I don't know if any of you had the problem that I had with the starter
> or not. We installed the engine in 2005 with a Sky-Tec High Torque HT
> starter, which supposedly was the best one they had back then. Anyway,
> whenever I would do a cold start of the engine the prop would make about
> a half revolution and stop, like it didn't have enough power to it. I
> would then try again and it would turn fine.
>
> Another RV friend of mine on my field told me about a new starter that
> Sky-Tec came out with that took less volts and turned the prop slower.
> It's a High Torque in Line NL. This friend was having the same problem
> with his 7, which has high compression pistons. We both switched to this
> new NL starter and it solved our problem. The new starter weighed a
> little bit more than my old one, something like a pound. I live in TX,
> so cold isn't a problem but I fly up into the cold country and was
> worried I wasn't going to get started on some cold day.
>
> Sky-Tec are really good people located right here near me in Granbury,
> TX and they took my old starter in on trade against the new one and it
> cost me $250 to upgrade. I thought that was a pretty good deal.
>
> Anyway I just thought I would pass this along in case any of you are
> experiencing the same problem as I had.
>
> Wayne Edgerton
> N602WT
>
>
>
> DISCLAIMER:---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail messages
> attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain proprietary or
copyright
> material or information that is subject to legal professional privilege. They
are for
> the use of the intended recipient only. Any unauthorised viewing, use, disclosure,
> copying, alteration, storage or distribution of, or reliance on, this message
is
> strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted without
the
> written permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in error,
or
> are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by return
email,
> delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any printed
> copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient should not be deemed
a
> waiver of any privilege or protection. Thales Australia does not warrant or represent
> that this e-mail or any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attached
are
> error or virus free.
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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The Bonanza/Baron drivers have been using sheepskin covers for this
purpose for years.
Deems Davis N519PJ
http://deemsrv10.com/
lbgjb10 wrote:
>
> Not blessed with A/C--it's hot and sweaty flying in Florida. Love the leather
sets, but has anyone found a material that one can temp. cover the leather to
prevent hot sweaty pilots form soaking the leather!!!! hot and toasty larry
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249411#249411
>
>
>
Message 13
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I recently left my old job on the Airborne Early Warning & Control
project here in Australia. This is a shot of the gift from some of my
buddies on the project. Gotta love it! BTW the -10 was finished long
before AEW&C will be (and no, my 30mm cannon were not loaded at the
time) :-)
Cheers
Ron
VH-XRM
Flying in Oz
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-----------
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ey are for
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closure,
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ge is
strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted with
out the
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turn email,
delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any
printed
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eemed a
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Fuel lines - selector to wing |
"If I was going hard lines, I would put a 90 degree fitting where the lines exit
the tunnel."
In point of fact, that is exactly how the newer -10's are now being built. Vans
upgraded the whole fuel selector valve arrangement, and plumbing, a bit.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249423#249423
Message 15
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| Subject: | Starter replacement |
I think the problem may be current flow; I have the certified engine and
Lycoming supplied Skytec starter? I found that the single Odyssey 680 would
start the engine when new and fully charged. Since I fly a lot of short (in
AZ) flights I find that the battery does not get fully recharged between
starts. Fortunately I have two 680s that can be set in parallel and provide
about 1000A to get the starter motor turning the engine. I have a third 680
on the firewall that is strictly a backup avionics battery and aids in the
weight and balance problem if fully loaded. If I were designing again I
might consider an Odyssey 925 or 1200 for the rear battery and the 680 on
the firewall for avionics backup and W&B. As it is I have the equivalent of
the Odyssey 1200 power coming from two separate batteries.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGann, Ron
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 3:58 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Starter replacement
--> <Ron.McGann@thalesgroup.com.au>
For those flying, I would be keen to know how many more issues of
insufficient starter torque have been reported. I regularly need to hold
the starter engaged for several seconds before the engine is pushed through
compression (when the engine is cold). I was about to relace the concorde
battery with an odyssey, but perhaps I need a higher torque starter??
Cheers
Ron
VH-XRM
Flying in Oz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Friday, 19 June 2009 11:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Starter replacement
I don't know if any of you had the problem that I had with the starter or
not. We installed the engine in 2005 with a Sky-Tec High Torque HT starter,
which supposedly was the best one they had back then. Anyway, whenever I
would do a cold start of the engine the prop would make about a half
revolution and stop, like it didn't have enough power to it. I would then
try again and it would turn fine.
Another RV friend of mine on my field told me about a new starter that
Sky-Tec came out with that took less volts and turned the prop slower.
It's a High Torque in Line NL. This friend was having the same problem with
his 7, which has high compression pistons. We both switched to this new NL
starter and it solved our problem. The new starter weighed a little bit more
than my old one, something like a pound. I live in TX, so cold isn't a
problem but I fly up into the cold country and was worried I wasn't going to
get started on some cold day.
Sky-Tec are really good people located right here near me in Granbury, TX
and they took my old starter in on trade against the new one and it cost me
$250 to upgrade. I thought that was a pretty good deal.
Anyway I just thought I would pass this along in case any of you are
experiencing the same problem as I had.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT
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Message 16
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While sheepskin works, a terry towel cloth cover is just as effective for a
lot less change.
On Sun, Jun 21, 2009 at 4:10 PM, Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
>
> The Bonanza/Baron drivers have been using sheepskin covers for this purpose
> for years.
>
> Deems Davis N519PJ
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> lbgjb10 wrote:
>
>>
>> Not blessed with A/C--it's hot and sweaty flying in Florida. Love the
>> leather sets, but has anyone found a material that one can temp. cover the
>> leather to prevent hot sweaty pilots form soaking the leather!!!! hot and
>> toasty larry
>>
>> --------
>> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249411#249411
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: window fitting - gap between flange and plexi |
I believe the instructions say it's okay to shim this area with washers.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249426#249426
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: window fitting - gap between flange and plexi |
Hey Rob,
You can try grinding the high spots on the fiberglass lip to seat the window better,
but don't go too thin. You can also grind the inner surface of the plexi
to make a better fit, but if the outer surface is flush with the canopy, I wouldn't
worry about it too much. The Weld-on is tough stuff.
When I used Weld-on on the windows, I put a layer on the fiberglass flange and
on the window to ensure a good bond all around. You have to be pretty quick to
do this in warm weather as it sets up quickly (it will set up faster in the
cup than spread on the surface), but that also prevents runs. Even if you have
a tiny gap or two, the fiberglass layer I put over the plexi/fiberglass joint
on the outside seals it.
Fun, huh? Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249427#249427
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Fuel lines - selector to wing |
I think Van's has recognized the complexity of beding hard fuel lines from
the tank to the selector. Some new fuselage recipients say 45 deg. bulkhead
fittings are now included for the connection from the tank to the tunnel.
Having 45 deg bulkhead fittings in the tunnel greatly simplify tubing bends
to the selector and also eliminate the need for flexible tubing.
45 degree blukhead fittings are used because the left tank has to be plumed
to the right side of the selector and vice versa.
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/08Fuselage/fuselage37l.html
William
http://nerv10.com
On Sat, Jun 20, 2009 at 7:11 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> Bonaco's are Teflon, correct? I didn't want to take the time to get the
> measurement and have aftermarket hoses made up while I was first
> building, so I used some Aeroquip racing hose and put on my own
> ends. I figure I'll fly it for 5-8 years and then sometime along
> that period I'll get motivated to yank the lines out and replace
> them with Bonaco Teflon/SS braid lines because then I'll never
> touch them again. In that particular application, they would
> basically never need replacement for the life of the plane.
>
> Using flex lines was a very big no-brainer after fighting
> with the aluminum lines, as far as I'm concerned. There were
> many bends in the aluminum lines that despite using a
> good tubing bender left me worried that I was seeing some
> sort of stress cracking in the aluminum. I think maybe
> they must have had a bad batch of tubing for a while
> because there were definite differences in tubing over
> a couple of various orders I placed....and I really just
> don't think fuel lines is a place to screw around with
> quality issues. I'm actually planning to replace the lines
> going forward of the fuel selector with Teflon when I do
> the others, too...and just go teflon 100% of the fuel path
> to the engine.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>> Flexible lines lifetime depends on both the material they are constructed
>> from and their environment. Engine hoses of convention rubber core with
>> steel braiding are very life limited because of the engine heat and
>> vibration. The same hose used for a brake line or wing to fuel selector line
>> will have more like triple the engine hose life. Teflon core hoses have no
>> life limit, just condition. Hard or flexible depends on the need to flex and
>> the difficulty of installation. Hard aluminum lines that flex regularly will
>> not last. So, it all depends.
>>
>> On Sat, Jun 20, 2009 at 6:50 AM, William Curtis <wwc4@njit.edu <mailto:
>> wwc4@njit.edu>> wrote:
>>
>> As long as you remember that flexible lines require periodic
>> replacement-every 5 years or so, hard lines do not. Faster--yes,
>> safer--no, better-- that is a matters of opinion. Not sure why
>> it took 15 hours to do the brake lines. If I remember
>> I think I did mine early on (right after Chapter 28) when the
>> fuselage was still opened up. Took about 2 hours. This may be
>> better advice than going with more expensive flexible lines that
>> require periodic maintenance. YMMV.
>>
>> William
>> http://nerv10.com/
>> On Sat, Jun 20, 2009 at 1:41 AM, AirMike <Mikeabel@pacbell.net
>> <mailto:Mikeabel@pacbell.net>> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Have you ever had a duhhhhh moment. Well I did today after
>> receiving my Bonaco fuel lines.
>>
>> I cannot believe that I spent as much time as I did messing
>> around with the Vans aluminum fuel lines. I have no doubt that I
>> have over 15 hours invested in those aluminum lines that are now
>> residing in the trash can. The 42" Bonaco lines are a tad short
>> if you run them exactly as Vans has it in the plans.
>>
>> I drilled a new 1" hole in the tunnel wall creating a more
>> direct route, and they fit fine. The fit is fast and I have no
>> doubt the they are much safer than the hard aluminum lines. The
>> lines are very well made and the SS web is even covered with a
>> thick plastic abrasion covering. For newbies getting into the
>> tunnel area save hours of work and just order up these lines.
>> Faster - safer - better. If you have any questions, e-mail me on
>> this web site or call Brett at Bonaco.
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
>> Q/B Kit - FWF end game
>>
>
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| Subject: | Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
Riobin,
I like the method you have for changing the bend in the
stick.
Have to think now about maybe fixing mine.
Jim C
N312F
Do Not Archive
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: window fitting - gap between flange and plexi |
Gaps like yours make the Weld-On work really miserable, especially on
a vertical surface. Enough glue to fill the gap will run like crazy
and then the gap is not filled. I had to cut my starboard rear window
out with a router and start over with a new one.
I covered the new window with packing tape and wax near the frame,
determined the proper number of washers/shims to set it out almost
flush with the fiberglass ' very slightly (< 1/32") recessed. I then
filled between the window and the frame with very thick West System
epoxy using cabosil and high density filler from West system. I held
the windows in place with clecoes and bent tabs.
When the epoxy had mostly set, I removed the windows, let the epoxy
cure overnight, and cleaned up the mess. This effectively make a good-
fitting casting that required only a thin and consistent layer of Weld-
On. This procedure was much easier than trying to do it with just Weld-
On. It came out nice and was easy to blend to the fiberglass.
Good luck!
John Ackerman 40458
On Jun 21, 2009, at 3:24 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> I trimmed one of the rear windows to fit. It looks great on the
> outside, but on the inside there's a considerable gap (maybe 1/16")
> between the plexi and the window flange in places. Is this okay?
> Does the weld-on fill this gap, or am I doing something wrong?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Wings
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Starter replacement |
-I installed a rg35xc battery instead of the rg25xc for two reasons, one
starting, two for more reserve if alternator quits and after 70+- hrs the
alternator did quit, (Thanks Van). But never have a problem cranking even
with the efis and JPI on and they stay up and running during cranking. Also
have the NL starter.
Patrick Thyssen
N15PT
--- On Sun, 6/21/09, McGann, Ron <Ron.McGann@thalesgroup.com.au> wrote:
From: McGann, Ron <Ron.McGann@thalesgroup.com.au>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Starter replacement
au>
For those flying, I would be keen to know how many more issues of
insufficient starter torque have been reported.- I regularly need to
hold the starter engaged for several seconds before the engine is pushed
through compression (when the engine is cold).- I was about to relace
the concorde battery with an odyssey, but perhaps I need a higher torque
starter??
Cheers
Ron
VH-XRM
Flying in Oz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
Edgerton
Sent: Friday, 19 June 2009 11:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Starter replacement
I don't know if any of you had the problem that I had with the starter
or not. We installed the engine in 2005 with a Sky-Tec High Torque HT
starter, which supposedly was the best one they had back then. Anyway,
whenever I would do a cold start of the engine the prop would make about
a half revolution and stop, like it didn't have enough power to it. I
would then try again and it would turn fine.
Another RV friend of mine on my field told me about a new starter that
Sky-Tec came out with that took less volts and turned the prop slower.
It's a High Torque in Line NL. This friend was having the same problem
with his 7, which has high compression pistons. We both switched to this
new NL starter and it solved our problem. The new starter weighed a
little bit more than my old one, something like a pound. I live in TX,
so cold isn't a problem but I fly up into the cold country and was
worried I wasn't going to get started on some cold day.
Sky-Tec are really good people located right here near me in Granbury,
TX and they took my old starter in on trade against the new one and it
cost me $250 to upgrade. I thought that was a pretty good deal.
Anyway I just thought I would pass this along in case any of you are
experiencing the same problem as I had.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT
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ges
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ey are for
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isclosure,
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ge is
strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted with
out the
written permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in
error, or
are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by re
turn email,
delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any
printed
copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient should not be d
eemed a
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le, List Admin.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
We inspect a lot of homebuilts that come in with some sort of issue with
control travel. It's not generally the easiest thing to fix.
Usually, the owners argue that you don't really need full control deflection
because if you used it, the result would be a pretty wild ride.
But the little blue line on your airspeed indicator (125 knots) is the
highest speed that the engineers came up with for being able to do exactly
that--full deflection, without structural damage. They must have had some
scenario in mind. Granted, it won't happen in blue sky cruise, but when
things go bad you want to know what your limitations are, and you want as
much in your favor as possible.
I think a more likely scenario is on take-off or landing, at much lower
speeds, when the controls aren't as effective. I was just reading a report
about an engine failure and subsequent long landing. The pilot used every
bit of skill and likely a lot of control deflection, to do what needed to be
done. Things got hairy after he had slowed quite a bit, but still had
aerodynamic control, and had to avoid some obstacles.
I always advise people to get as much control travel as allowable.
--
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
Message 24
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(see my post about full deflection...;-)
And we worry about one or two external antennas!
Do Not Arcihve
>
> I recently left my old job on the Airborne Early Warning & Control project
> here in Australia. This is a shot of the gift from some of my buddies on
> the project. Gotta love it! BTW the -10 was finished long before AEW&C
> will be (and no, my 30mm cannon were not loaded at the time) J
>
>
> Cheers
>
> Ron
>
> VH-XRM
>
> Flying in Oz
> DISCLAIMER:---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail
> messages attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain
> proprietary or copyright material or information that is subject to legal
> professional privilege. They are for the use of the intended recipient only.
> Any unauthorised viewing, use, disclosure, copying, alteration, storage or
> distribution of, or reliance on, this message is strictly prohibited. No
> part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted without the written
> permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in error, or
> are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by
> return email, delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system,
> and destroy any printed copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended
> recipient should not be deemed a waiver of any privilege or protection.
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> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
--
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
SSBoYWQgdGhlIHNhbWUgaXNzdWUsIHlvdSBuZWVkIHRvIHNlZSB3aGF0IHRvICJlbGV2YXRvciIg
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bA0KDQo
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
Thank you All very much for the input...Robin1: We discussed bending the sticks
as well, but were concerned with inadvertently "crimping" the insulation which
covers the wires running through the stick...which was a real "Bear" to feed
through. After consideration, we temporarily installed the left seat and found
we too could rest the arm on the leg and comfortably touch the stick grip.
The decision was made to carefully cut the top of the sticks down as far as practical.
We used a pipe cutter, then a ban saw with a make-shift spacer to protect
the insulation. We now get full forward stick, only slightly touching the
pullout controls when they are full out.
Thank you all again! I really enjoy this forum...My father will most likely be
posting on here as well.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249447#249447
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Fuel lines - selector to wing |
"45 degree blukhead fittings are used because the left tank has to be plumed to
the right side of the selector and vice versa. "
No, they're now 90 deg fittings, because Vans also changed the selector valve geometry,
so now left goes to left and right to right. A lot fewer, difficult bends.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249449#249449
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Starter replacement |
I also had to up the battery to a 35x. I also found out that I had not
enough ground between the engine and the frame. I initially had two
flexible braided cables from the back of the engine to the ears on the
motor mount. Ended up running a cable from the starter body itself back
to my common firewall ground, where the electricity gets to flow back to
the battery in a number 4 wire. It helped, but I still have a high
compression engine and it can be tough to turn by hand, let alone the
starter. That is one of the issues I plan to check on at Airventure.
Fred Williams
McGann, Ron wrote:
>
> For those flying, I would be keen to know how many more issues of
> insufficient starter torque have been reported. I regularly need to
> hold the starter engaged for several seconds before the engine is pushed
> through compression (when the engine is cold). I was about to relace
> the concorde battery with an odyssey, but perhaps I need a higher torque
> starter??
>
> Cheers
> Ron
> VH-XRM
> Flying in Oz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
> Edgerton
> Sent: Friday, 19 June 2009 11:52 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Starter replacement
>
> I don't know if any of you had the problem that I had with the starter
> or not. We installed the engine in 2005 with a Sky-Tec High Torque HT
> starter, which supposedly was the best one they had back then. Anyway,
> whenever I would do a cold start of the engine the prop would make about
> a half revolution and stop, like it didn't have enough power to it. I
> would then try again and it would turn fine.
>
> Another RV friend of mine on my field told me about a new starter that
> Sky-Tec came out with that took less volts and turned the prop slower.
> It's a High Torque in Line NL. This friend was having the same problem
> with his 7, which has high compression pistons. We both switched to this
> new NL starter and it solved our problem. The new starter weighed a
> little bit more than my old one, something like a pound. I live in TX,
> so cold isn't a problem but I fly up into the cold country and was
> worried I wasn't going to get started on some cold day.
>
> Sky-Tec are really good people located right here near me in Granbury,
> TX and they took my old starter in on trade against the new one and it
> cost me $250 to upgrade. I thought that was a pretty good deal.
>
> Anyway I just thought I would pass this along in case any of you are
> experiencing the same problem as I had.
>
> Wayne Edgerton
> N602WT
>
>
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Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
I had been warned by others on the field that my DAR was a stickler for
control systems. And I made sure that there was no interference with the
grips in all extreme quadrants before the inspection. During the
inspection (Yes he checked all the extremes) We discussed this part of
the inspection, and he echoed the points that Dave relates. His view was
that if an emergency develops and you loose your engine and or you
prop, if you still have FULL control of your aircraft, you stand a
better chance of survival. Unexpected situations can and will develop
(runaway/stuck trim), when they do, we want the FULL CAPABILITIES OF THE
AIRCRAFT at our disposal, not just a portion of them.
Deems Davis
Dave Saylor wrote:
> We inspect a lot of homebuilts that come in with some sort of issue
> with control travel. It's not generally the easiest thing to fix.
>
> Usually, the owners argue that you don't really need full control
> deflection because if you used it, the result would be a pretty wild ride.
>
> But the little blue line on your airspeed indicator (125 knots) is the
> highest speed that the engineers came up with for being able to do
> exactly that--full deflection, without structural damage. They must
> have had some scenario in mind. Granted, it won't happen in blue sky
> cruise, but when things go bad you want to know what your limitations
> are, and you want as much in your favor as possible.
>
> I think a more likely scenario is on take-off or landing, at much
> lower speeds, when the controls aren't as effective. I was just
> reading a report about an engine failure and subsequent long landing.
> The pilot used every bit of skill and likely a lot of control
> deflection, to do what needed to be done. Things got hairy after he
> had slowed quite a bit, but still had aerodynamic control, and had to
> avoid some obstacles.
>
> I always advise people to get as much control travel as allowable.
> --
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
> *
>
>
> *
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