Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:44 AM - Re: Re: Pitot cover (David Maib)
2. 07:45 AM - Re: Pitot cover (orchidman)
3. 08:19 AM - Re: Re: Pitot cover (Miller John)
4. 09:21 AM - Re: Re: Pitot cover (David McNeill)
5. 09:39 AM - Re: Re: Pitot cover (David McNeill)
6. 09:53 AM - Pitot test rig (was Pitot cover) (Carl Froehlich)
7. 10:25 AM - Re: Tool kit (John Cox)
8. 10:36 AM - Builders in the Kentucky area? (James Ochs)
9. 10:44 AM - Re: Tool kit--PDF plans (Sheldon Olesen)
10. 11:11 AM - Re: Tool kit (David McNeill)
11. 11:11 AM - Re: Tool kit--PDF plans (David McNeill)
12. 11:25 AM - Re: Re: Pitot cover (Linn Walters)
13. 02:23 PM - Re: Pitot cover (Jim Berry)
14. 02:26 PM - Re: -3 degrees flaps (Robert Brunkenhoefer)
15. 02:35 PM - Re: Pitot cover (Strasnuts)
16. 03:02 PM - Re: Pitot cover (Strasnuts)
17. 03:11 PM - Re: Pitot cover (orchidman)
18. 03:19 PM - Re: RV10 windshield crazing (Robert Brunkenhoefer)
19. 03:55 PM - Re: Re: RV10 windshield crazing (John Cumins)
20. 04:40 PM - Re: Re: RV10 windshield crazing (Robert Brunkenhoefer)
21. 04:42 PM - Re: Pitot cover (doctornigel)
22. 04:44 PM - Re: Re: RV10 windshield crazing (Robert Brunkenhoefer)
23. 04:52 PM - spare fuel caps for sale (Dave Saylor)
24. 05:38 PM - Re: Re: RV10 windshield crazing (Jack Phillips)
25. 05:55 PM - Re: Re: RV10 windshield crazing (Linn Walters)
26. 05:59 PM - doors (Linn Walters)
27. 06:07 PM - Re: Re: RV10 windshield crazing (Kelly McMullen)
28. 06:45 PM - Re: Re: RV10 windshield crazing (Jack Phillips)
29. 07:15 PM - Re: doors (Lenny Iszak)
30. 07:21 PM - Re: Pitot test rig (was Pitot cover) (KiloPapa)
31. 07:52 PM - Re: Re: RV10 windshield crazing (Robert Brunkenhoefer)
32. 07:53 PM - Re: Re: RV10 windshield crazing (Robert Brunkenhoefer)
33. 08:16 PM - Re: Re: RV10 windshield crazing (Tim Olson)
34. 08:21 PM - Re: Re: RV10 windshield crazing (Tim Olson)
35. 09:41 PM - Re: Re: RV10 windshield crazing (Robin Marks)
Message 1
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Tell us more about that decrease to zero part! :-)
David Maib
do not archive
On Jul 5, 2009, at 12:19 AM, orchidman wrote:
gengrumpy(at)aol.com wrote:
> The "L" shaped one from Spruce works great and for under $10.
>
> Never leave the pitot tube uncovered!!!
>
> Think the surprise had you been heading off into IMC......
>
> grumpy
> N184JM
>
I knew I would need a cover but put off getting one. Right now I
have some of the blue painters tape keeping the little guys out with
a tail hanging about to the floor. Monday, I will order the larger
of the 2 sizes.
Thanks.
Before my first flight there were several of the 'airport
bums' [Wink] asking when was I going to do my high speed taxing and
I would reply back Van's thoughts about not doing them. This plane
accelerates so fast that I cross check the engine instruments while
watching outside until almost rotate speed and then check the
airspeed indicator. It was low but not that low so I did what the
plane told me it wanted to do. I felt safer flying the plane then
trying to do a high speed abort on the runway.
With my past training and the flying of my -10, I feel comfortable
flying the plane by the seat of my pants, sounds and visual cues.
For new pilots, I sure hope that your flight instructors give you
good training on partial panel, including full loss of airspeed. You
never know when it will be used.
Mine went up to about 70 KIAS and then did a genital decrease to zero.
The comment about if I was in the soup, well I would fly the plane
first and then later on, with my 496, bring up the instrument
screen. It has a GPS airspeed which would give you something in the
ball park. Combine that with the winds for the airport and you
should be within 10 knots, more then safe for lowering flaps and
starting an approach.
This is a great plane !!!!
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251547#251547
Message 2
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dmaib@mac.com wrote:
> Tell us more about that decrease to zero part! :-)
>
> David Maib
Not a whole lot to tell. It looked like it plugged solid some where around rotate
and then bled off to nothing in the following minutes.
After rotate, I knew I had an unreliable airspeed so by and large, it was excluded
from my cross-check. And to top it off, I had a 'low-n-slow' plane in front
of me doing a full stop so I had to extend to allow him to clear the runway.
It took some time to fly the pattern but I was in no rush.
Overall I felt it was no big deal but did require 110% attention and concentration.
Another good reason to make sure you get the best training possible. Alex,
if you are listening, another thumbs up to the transition training.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251580#251580
Message 3
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Another great reason to have AOA - totally independent of the pitot
static system!!
grumpy
N184JM
On Jul 5, 2009, at 9:41 AM, orchidman wrote:
>
>
> dmaib@mac.com wrote:
>> Tell us more about that decrease to zero part! :-)
>>
>> David Maib
>
> Not a whole lot to tell. It looked like it plugged solid some where
> around rotate and then bled off to nothing in the following minutes.
> After rotate, I knew I had an unreliable airspeed so by and large,
> it was excluded from my cross-check. And to top it off, I had a
> 'low-n-slow' plane in front of me doing a full stop so I had to
> extend to allow him to clear the runway. It took some time to fly
> the pattern but I was in no rush.
> Overall I felt it was no big deal but did require 110% attention and
> concentration. Another good reason to make sure you get the best
> training possible. Alex, if you are listening, another thumbs up to
> the transition training.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> (N2GB Flying)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251580#251580
>
>
Message 4
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Had a pitot ice in IMC. Noticed gradual decrease in airspeed. Light bulb in
head came on and upon application of pitot heat the airspeed went from 0-140
in a few milliseconds.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Maib
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 5:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Pitot cover
Tell us more about that decrease to zero part! :-)
David Maib
do not archive
On Jul 5, 2009, at 12:19 AM, orchidman wrote:
gengrumpy(at)aol.com wrote:
> The "L" shaped one from Spruce works great and for under $10.
>
> Never leave the pitot tube uncovered!!!
>
> Think the surprise had you been heading off into IMC......
>
> grumpy
> N184JM
>
I knew I would need a cover but put off getting one. Right now I have some
of the blue painters tape keeping the little guys out with a tail hanging
about to the floor. Monday, I will order the larger of the 2 sizes.
Thanks.
Before my first flight there were several of the 'airport
bums' [Wink] asking when was I going to do my high speed taxing and
I would reply back Van's thoughts about not doing them. This plane
accelerates so fast that I cross check the engine instruments while watching
outside until almost rotate speed and then check the airspeed indicator. It
was low but not that low so I did what the plane told me it wanted to do. I
felt safer flying the plane then trying to do a high speed abort on the
runway.
With my past training and the flying of my -10, I feel comfortable flying
the plane by the seat of my pants, sounds and visual cues.
For new pilots, I sure hope that your flight instructors give you good
training on partial panel, including full loss of airspeed. You never know
when it will be used.
Mine went up to about 70 KIAS and then did a genital decrease to zero.
The comment about if I was in the soup, well I would fly the plane first and
then later on, with my 496, bring up the instrument screen. It has a GPS
airspeed which would give you something in the ball park. Combine that with
the winds for the airport and you should be within 10 knots, more then safe
for lowering flaps and starting an approach.
This is a great plane !!!!
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251547#251547
Message 5
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Think; if the pitot ices at altitude and you are descending, airspeed can
decrease as low pressure in the iced pitot is contrasted with higher static
pressure at lower altitude. Opposite is also true. B-727 going to BUF to
pick Buffalo Bills football team out of LGA. Crew failed to turn on pitot
heats for all three pitot tubes and they iced in a climb. Higher pressure
air from lower altitudes was trapped in the pitot lines. As the altitude
rapidly increased because the aircraft was light, The airspeed appeared to
keep increasing because static pressure was decreasing. Instead of cross
checking other instruments, they saw airspeed over speed and continued to
pull back the yoke. When the aircraft finally stalled the FDR indicated that
the pitch angle was 30 degrees up. The crew fixated on the airspeed and
stalled the aircraft about FL250. It took about a minute to hit the ground.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 7:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Pitot cover
dmaib@mac.com wrote:
> Tell us more about that decrease to zero part! :-)
>
> David Maib
Not a whole lot to tell. It looked like it plugged solid some where around
rotate and then bled off to nothing in the following minutes.
After rotate, I knew I had an unreliable airspeed so by and large, it was
excluded from my cross-check. And to top it off, I had a 'low-n-slow' plane
in front of me doing a full stop so I had to extend to allow him to clear
the runway. It took some time to fly the pattern but I was in no rush.
Overall I felt it was no big deal but did require 110% attention and
concentration. Another good reason to make sure you get the best training
possible. Alex, if you are listening, another thumbs up to the transition
training.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251580#251580
Message 6
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| Subject: | Pitot test rig (was Pitot cover) |
Before first flight, or anytime you have a doubt about airspeed indication,
you can do a simple but accurate check.
Photo attached on the pitot test rig I made. While the one photo is with
the airspeed indicator out of the plane, normal is to attach the tubing
directly to the pitot tube (electrical tape makes a good seal) and test the
entire system for accuracy and leaks. I used a standard blood pressure bulb
to pump up the water level - it does not take much. Also attached is the
conversion scale to put under the level tube to read out directly into
knots. As airspeed is strictly related to differential pressure, there are
no corrections for temperature, atmospheric pressure or altitude.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (500 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 12:20 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Pitot cover
gengrumpy(at)aol.com wrote:
> The "L" shaped one from Spruce works great and for under $10.
>
> Never leave the pitot tube uncovered!!!
>
> Think the surprise had you been heading off into IMC......
>
> grumpy
> N184JM
>
I knew I would need a cover but put off getting one. Right now I have some
of the blue painters tape keeping the little guys out with a tail hanging
about to the floor. Monday, I will order the larger of the 2 sizes.
Thanks.
Before my first flight there were several of the 'airport bums' [Wink]
asking when was I going to do my high speed taxing and I would reply back
Van's thoughts about not doing them. This plane accelerates so fast that I
cross check the engine instruments while watching outside until almost
rotate speed and then check the airspeed indicator. It was low but not that
low so I did what the plane told me it wanted to do. I felt safer flying
the plane then trying to do a high speed abort on the runway.
With my past training and the flying of my -10, I feel comfortable flying
the plane by the seat of my pants, sounds and visual cues.
For new pilots, I sure hope that your flight instructors give you good
training on partial panel, including full loss of airspeed. You never know
when it will be used.
Mine went up to about 70 KIAS and then did a genital decrease to zero.
The comment about if I was in the soup, well I would fly the plane first and
then later on, with my 496, bring up the instrument screen. It has a GPS
airspeed which would give you something in the ball park. Combine that with
the winds for the airport and you should be within 10 knots, more then safe
for lowering flaps and starting an approach.
This is a great plane !!!!
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251547#251547
Message 7
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David, you haven't mentioned that you found the Thumb drive. Had this
same thing happen at OSH with a stubby phillips screwdriver last year.
After a full field strip, the owner admitted he forgot and stowed it
elsewhere. Got a steak dinner out of the lost six hours of inspection
panel removal/reinstallation. Just finished an annual with an owner
that had a hand-held extinguisher that would slide forward and block
control rod movements. Think Safety!
Be ready on trips to tackle the unexpected.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 9:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tool kit
tools are needed to disassemble the airframe; on a recent tip my son
drop his thumb drive while touching the right stick. Bad luck. The thumb
drive could no be found and I had to remove the right seat and the
inspection panel under it to get the offending item. That required
removing the rear torque tube cover and the front seat lock mechanism
bolts. It was nice to have the tools to do this at hand rather than
borrowing from the FBO or my host.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger
Standley
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tool kit
This is a great topic. We all do plenty of maintenance to prevent a
problem away from home. The items in the suggested tool kit probably
came to mind because of possible problems, from experience or imagined.
What are the top ten "most likely" problems that you might foresee? I'll
start the list:
1. Low or flat tire
2. Dead battery
3.
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007@cox.net>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 5:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tool kit
<dlm46007@cox.net>
I sometimes joke that I can handle anything short of an engine
overhaul or
wing removal. I carry:
a 1/4 and 3/6" drive sets
Spark plug socket
combo wrenches from 1/4 to 7/8"
Mechanical and magnetic grapplers
Slotted and Phillips head 1 and 2
needle nose and vise grip pliers
safety wire and pliers
Four small trays of additional fasteners and tie wraps
Small and normal size dikes
Voltmeter with leads and extra alligator clip jumpers
Avionics removal tool
Forceps both straight and curved
Allen wrenches both English and metric
Misc caps and plugs for fluid/air lines
Other small one off items that escape memory
Also I carry separately the gust locks, tie down lugs and
Plexus, a couple
of spare plugs and contactors
I would have to borrow tools for a sheet metal repair.
Lastly I carry a USB memory stick with all the airframe pdf
plans, install
manuals, operation manuals etc (893MB)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Olson
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 3:49 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: -3 degrees flaps
Like you, I usually carry a small tool kit with a spare spark
plug of each
type, plug wrench, small socket set, multi-screwdriver, and
wrenches. Then
there's the spare quart of oil, and often the tie-down anchors.
Add to that
a small bag of windshield cleaning supplies and spray wax for
the wings, and
I've got a little semi-permanent ballast. After flying it for a
while I've
done plenty of flights just checking things out where I had no
ballast and I
find I don't need any ballast for landings to be great, but
keeping those
items in there is still a great idea. There are so many ways to
get stuck
on a cross-country kit, I try to keep a little ready. After
rebuilding my
mag I even kept the old parts in a jar so that I could do a
quick bit of
field work if something went amiss.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
David McNeill wrote:
> I think you might be missing the boat if you don't carry about
20-25#
> tool box in the baggage area. If you have a maintenance
problem away
> from home; you are the maintenance man. Many FBOs will not
touch your
> airplane because they do not have the necessary "data" and
continuing
> airworthiness data. It won't make any difference if you have a
> Lycosauras or something else. BTDT
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
*Jim
> *Sent:* Friday, July 03, 2009 1:10 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: -3 degrees flaps
>
> Not only does weight make a difference, but the CG makes a
difference
> in the landing flair too. Much like a C-172. Toss a body or
two in
> the back seats and the landing flair is automatic. Solo or
two in
> front and you will use quite a bit more elevator. I will toss
a 25
> bag of shot in the baggage compartment when I fly with just
one or two.
>
> During my initial Phase 1 early flights, I put 75 lbs in the
opposite
> rear seat. Moved the CG back enough to make the first flights
easier.
> Removed them later in the Phase I flights.
>
> but I will say this. This airplane is the most fun flying I
have ever
> had.
>
> Jim C
> N312F - Flying and loving every minute of it!
>
> ---------------------------------------------
>
>
<bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
>
> As Jim mentioned, don't forget the weight. The -10 can have a
large
> variation in weight. If the over-the-fence "right" number for
you is
> 70 KIAS at 2700 lbs, then the same "right" number is 60 KIAS
at 2000 lbs.
> Quite a difference!
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251347#251347
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matroni
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
> cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
<http://forums.matronics.com>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> c
> *
>
> *
>
>
> nbsp; Navigator Photoshare, and
title=http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
p
; via the Web title=http://forums.matronics.com/
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
_p; generous bsp;
title=http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
===============
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 8
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| Subject: | Builders in the Kentucky area? |
Hi All,
I just moved from Sunnyvale, CA to Jamestown, KY and I'm looking for
any local rv'ers and an EAA chapter in the area (as well as a good FBO
to rent from / work on my instrument at.... are there any builders in
the area?
Thanks,
James
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Tool kit--PDF plans |
David,
I like the idea of having all the pertinent plans and operating
manual on a USB memory stick. How about placing that info on line on
Tim O's site for others to down load? I think that the size is too
large for the regular Matronics list. It is also another great way
to ruin American productivity by allowing builders to study plans at
work.
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 94 hours Flying to OSH this year
On Jul 3, 2009, at 7:24 PM, David McNeill wrote:
>
> I sometimes joke that I can handle anything short of an engine
> overhaul or
> wing removal. I carry:
>
> a 1/4 and 3/6" drive sets
> Spark plug socket
> combo wrenches from 1/4 to 7/8"
> Mechanical and magnetic grapplers
> Slotted and Phillips head 1 and 2
> needle nose and vise grip pliers
> safety wire and pliers
> Four small trays of additional fasteners and tie wraps
> Small and normal size dikes
> Voltmeter with leads and extra alligator clip jumpers
> Avionics removal tool
> Forceps both straight and curved
> Allen wrenches both English and metric
> Misc caps and plugs for fluid/air lines
> Other small one off items that escape memory
>
>
> Also I carry separately the gust locks, tie down lugs and Plexus, a
> couple
> of spare plugs and contactors
>
> I would have to borrow tools for a sheet metal repair.
>
> Lastly I carry a USB memory stick with all the airframe pdf plans,
> install
> manuals, operation manuals etc (893MB)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 3:49 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: -3 degrees flaps
>
>
> Like you, I usually carry a small tool kit with a spare spark plug
> of each
> type, plug wrench, small socket set, multi-screwdriver, and
> wrenches. Then
> there's the spare quart of oil, and often the tie-down anchors.
> Add to that
> a small bag of windshield cleaning supplies and spray wax for the
> wings, and
> I've got a little semi-permanent ballast. After flying it for a
> while I've
> done plenty of flights just checking things out where I had no
> ballast and I
> find I don't need any ballast for landings to be great, but keeping
> those
> items in there is still a great idea. There are so many ways to
> get stuck
> on a cross-country kit, I try to keep a little ready. After
> rebuilding my
> mag I even kept the old parts in a jar so that I could do a quick
> bit of
> field work if something went amiss.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>> I think you might be missing the boat if you don't carry about 20-25#
>> tool box in the baggage area. If you have a maintenance problem away
>> from home; you are the maintenance man. Many FBOs will not touch your
>> airplane because they do not have the necessary "data" and continuing
>> airworthiness data. It won't make any difference if you have a
>> Lycosauras or something else. BTDT
>>
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>> -
>> --
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jim
>> *Sent:* Friday, July 03, 2009 1:10 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: -3 degrees flaps
>>
>> Not only does weight make a difference, but the CG makes a difference
>> in the landing flair too. Much like a C-172. Toss a body or two in
>> the back seats and the landing flair is automatic. Solo or two in
>> front and you will use quite a bit more elevator. I will toss a 25
>> bag of shot in the baggage compartment when I fly with just one or
>> two.
>>
>> During my initial Phase 1 early flights, I put 75 lbs in the opposite
>> rear seat. Moved the CG back enough to make the first flights
>> easier.
>> Removed them later in the Phase I flights.
>>
>> but I will say this. This airplane is the most fun flying I have
>> ever
>> had.
>>
>> Jim C
>> N312F - Flying and loving every minute of it!
>>
>> ---------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
>>
>> As Jim mentioned, don't forget the weight. The -10 can have a large
>> variation in weight. If the over-the-fence "right" number for you is
>> 70 KIAS at 2700 lbs, then the same "right" number is 60 KIAS at
>> 2000 lbs.
>> Quite a difference!
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251347#251347
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://
>> www.matroni
>> cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
>> www.matronics.com/
>> c
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
Message 10
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Yes he found his thumb drive under the right front seat; probably would not
have cause any problem but I never like to leave tools or other extraneous
material floating around in the aircraft.
another spare that is carried is one master contactor and one starter
relay, since most of these aircraft are dependent on electrons flowing.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 10:22 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tool kit
David, you haven't mentioned that you found the Thumb drive. Had this same
thing happen at OSH with a stubby phillips screwdriver last year. After a
full field strip, the owner admitted he forgot and stowed it elsewhere. Got
a steak dinner out of the lost six hours of inspection panel
removal/reinstallation. Just finished an annual with an owner that had a
hand-held extinguisher that would slide forward and block control rod
movements. Think Safety!
Be ready on trips to tackle the unexpected.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 9:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tool kit
tools are needed to disassemble the airframe; on a recent tip my son drop
his thumb drive while touching the right stick. Bad luck. The thumb drive
could no be found and I had to remove the right seat and the inspection
panel under it to get the offending item. That required removing the rear
torque tube cover and the front seat lock mechanism bolts. It was nice to
have the tools to do this at hand rather than borrowing from the FBO or my
host.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tool kit
This is a great topic. We all do plenty of maintenance to prevent a problem
away from home. The items in the suggested tool kit probably came to mind
because of possible problems, from experience or imagined. What are the top
ten "most likely" problems that you might foresee? I'll start the list:
1. Low or flat tire
2. Dead battery
3.
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007@cox.net>
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 5:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tool kit
I sometimes joke that I can handle anything short of an engine overhaul or
wing removal. I carry:
a 1/4 and 3/6" drive sets
Spark plug socket
combo wrenches from 1/4 to 7/8"
Mechanical and magnetic grapplers
Slotted and Phillips head 1 and 2
needle nose and vise grip pliers
safety wire and pliers
Four small trays of additional fasteners and tie wraps
Small and normal size dikes
Voltmeter with leads and extra alligator clip jumpers
Avionics removal tool
Forceps both straight and curved
Allen wrenches both English and metric
Misc caps and plugs for fluid/air lines
Other small one off items that escape memory
Also I carry separately the gust locks, tie down lugs and Plexus, a couple
of spare plugs and contactors
I would have to borrow tools for a sheet metal repair.
Lastly I carry a USB memory stick with all the airframe pdf plans, install
manuals, operation manuals etc (893MB)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: -3 degrees flaps
Like you, I usually carry a small tool kit with a spare spark plug of each
type, plug wrench, small socket set, multi-screwdriver, and wrenches. Then
there's the spare quart of oil, and often the tie-down anchors. Add to that
a small bag of windshield cleaning supplies and spray wax for the wings, and
I've got a little semi-permanent ballast. After flying it for a while I've
done plenty of flights just checking things out where I had no ballast and I
find I don't need any ballast for landings to be great, but keeping those
items in there is still a great idea. There are so many ways to get stuck
on a cross-country kit, I try to keep a little ready. After rebuilding my
mag I even kept the old parts in a jar so that I could do a quick bit of
field work if something went amiss.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
David McNeill wrote:
> I think you might be missing the boat if you don't carry about 20-25#
> tool box in the baggage area. If you have a maintenance problem away
> from home; you are the maintenance man. Many FBOs will not touch your
> airplane because they do not have the necessary "data" and continuing
> airworthiness data. It won't make any difference if you have a
> Lycosauras or something else. BTDT
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jim
> *Sent:* Friday, July 03, 2009 1:10 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: -3 degrees flaps
>
> Not only does weight make a difference, but the CG makes a difference
> in the landing flair too. Much like a C-172. Toss a body or two in
> the back seats and the landing flair is automatic. Solo or two in
> front and you will use quite a bit more elevator. I will toss a 25
> bag of shot in the baggage compartment when I fly with just one or two.
>
> During my initial Phase 1 early flights, I put 75 lbs in the opposite
> rear seat. Moved the CG back enough to make the first flights easier.
> Removed them later in the Phase I flights.
>
> but I will say this. This airplane is the most fun flying I have ever
> had.
>
> Jim C
> N312F - Flying and loving every minute of it!
>
> ---------------------------------------------
>
>
>
> As Jim mentioned, don't forget the weight. The -10 can have a large
> variation in weight. If the over-the-fence "right" number for you is
> 70 KIAS at 2700 lbs, then the same "right" number is 60 KIAS at 2000 lbs.
> Quite a difference!
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251347#251347
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> >http://www.matroni
> cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com" <http://forums.matronics.com>
>http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution"
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution> >http://www.matronics.com/
> c
> *
>
> *
>
>
> nbsp; Navigator Photoshare, and
title=http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronicp;
via the Web title=http://forums.matronics.com/
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
_p; generous bsp;
title=http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c====
===========
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 11
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| Subject: | Tool kit--PDF plans |
I think the airframe plans are already available on Tim's site. I think that
where I got a copy. What I also carry are the install manuals for my
avionics, special wiring color codes used , backup EFIS software and
operational and functional manuals. For example I keep the Chelton current
level FAA 6.0B? User manuals there. In case I want to research how to
accomplish something that has slipped my personal memory.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sheldon Olesen
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tool kit--PDF plans
David,
I like the idea of having all the pertinent plans and operating manual on a
USB memory stick. How about placing that info on line on Tim O's site for
others to down load? I think that the size is too large for the regular
Matronics list. It is also another great way to ruin American productivity
by allowing builders to study plans at work.
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 94 hours Flying to OSH this year
On Jul 3, 2009, at 7:24 PM, David McNeill wrote:
>
> I sometimes joke that I can handle anything short of an engine
> overhaul or wing removal. I carry:
>
> a 1/4 and 3/6" drive sets
> Spark plug socket
> combo wrenches from 1/4 to 7/8"
> Mechanical and magnetic grapplers
> Slotted and Phillips head 1 and 2
> needle nose and vise grip pliers
> safety wire and pliers
> Four small trays of additional fasteners and tie wraps Small and
> normal size dikes Voltmeter with leads and extra alligator clip
> jumpers Avionics removal tool Forceps both straight and curved Allen
> wrenches both English and metric Misc caps and plugs for fluid/air
> lines Other small one off items that escape memory
>
>
> Also I carry separately the gust locks, tie down lugs and Plexus, a
> couple
> of spare plugs and contactors
>
> I would have to borrow tools for a sheet metal repair.
>
> Lastly I carry a USB memory stick with all the airframe pdf plans,
> install
> manuals, operation manuals etc (893MB)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Friday, July 03, 2009 3:49 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: -3 degrees flaps
>
>
> Like you, I usually carry a small tool kit with a spare spark plug
> of each
> type, plug wrench, small socket set, multi-screwdriver, and
> wrenches. Then
> there's the spare quart of oil, and often the tie-down anchors.
> Add to that
> a small bag of windshield cleaning supplies and spray wax for the
> wings, and
> I've got a little semi-permanent ballast. After flying it for a
> while I've
> done plenty of flights just checking things out where I had no
> ballast and I
> find I don't need any ballast for landings to be great, but keeping
> those
> items in there is still a great idea. There are so many ways to
> get stuck
> on a cross-country kit, I try to keep a little ready. After
> rebuilding my
> mag I even kept the old parts in a jar so that I could do a quick
> bit of
> field work if something went amiss.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>> I think you might be missing the boat if you don't carry about 20-25#
>> tool box in the baggage area. If you have a maintenance problem away
>> from home; you are the maintenance man. Many FBOs will not touch your
>> airplane because they do not have the necessary "data" and continuing
>> airworthiness data. It won't make any difference if you have a
>> Lycosauras or something else. BTDT
>>
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>> -
>> --
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jim
>> *Sent:* Friday, July 03, 2009 1:10 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: -3 degrees flaps
>>
>> Not only does weight make a difference, but the CG makes a difference
>> in the landing flair too. Much like a C-172. Toss a body or two in
>> the back seats and the landing flair is automatic. Solo or two in
>> front and you will use quite a bit more elevator. I will toss a 25
>> bag of shot in the baggage compartment when I fly with just one or
>> two.
>>
>> During my initial Phase 1 early flights, I put 75 lbs in the opposite
>> rear seat. Moved the CG back enough to make the first flights
>> easier.
>> Removed them later in the Phase I flights.
>>
>> but I will say this. This airplane is the most fun flying I have
>> ever
>> had.
>>
>> Jim C
>> N312F - Flying and loving every minute of it!
>>
>> ---------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
>>
>> As Jim mentioned, don't forget the weight. The -10 can have a large
>> variation in weight. If the over-the-fence "right" number for you is
>> 70 KIAS at 2700 lbs, then the same "right" number is 60 KIAS at
>> 2000 lbs.
>> Quite a difference!
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251347#251347
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://
>> www.matroni
>> cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
>> www.matronics.com/
>> c
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
Message 12
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The cheapest and most available thing is a pipe cleaner. Bend it in the
shape of a tall cowboy hat with the brim turned up. slip the long end
in the pitot tube. Also works to keep critters out of the gas tank
vents. You can leave them in with exception of pitot tube if you have
even an inkling of using pitot heat. Also won't work on pitots with
tiny holes.
Linn
orchidman wrote:
>
>
> gengrumpy(at)aol.com wrote:
>> The "L" shaped one from Spruce works great and for under $10.
>>
>> Never leave the pitot tube uncovered!!!
>>
>> Think the surprise had you been heading off into IMC......
>>
>> grumpy
>> N184JM
>>
>
> I knew I would need a cover but put off getting one. Right now I have some of
the blue painters tape keeping the little guys out with a tail hanging about
to the floor. Monday, I will order the larger of the 2 sizes.
> Thanks.
>
> Before my first flight there were several of the 'airport bums' [Wink] asking
when was I going to do my high speed taxing and I would reply back Van's thoughts
about not doing them. This plane accelerates so fast that I cross check
the engine instruments while watching outside until almost rotate speed and
then check the airspeed indicator. It was low but not that low so I did what
the plane told me it wanted to do. I felt safer flying the plane then trying
to do a high speed abort on the runway.
> With my past training and the flying of my -10, I feel comfortable flying the
plane by the seat of my pants, sounds and visual cues.
>
> For new pilots, I sure hope that your flight instructors give you good training
on partial panel, including full loss of airspeed. You never know when it
will be used.
>
> Mine went up to about 70 KIAS and then did a genital decrease to zero.
> The comment about if I was in the soup, well I would fly the plane first and
then later on, with my 496, bring up the instrument screen. It has a GPS airspeed
which would give you something in the ball park. Combine that with the winds
for the airport and you should be within 10 knots, more then safe for lowering
flaps and starting an approach.
>
> This is a great plane !!!!
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> (N2GB Flying)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251547#251547
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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Orchidman wrote "Mine went up to about 70 KIAS and then did a genital decrease
to zero."
Over the years I have seen a lot of guys in the office whose genitals suffered
a decrease, but I never knew it could affect their airspeed.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251620#251620
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: -3 degrees flaps |
I am experiencing crazing on my windshield that just started suddenly
a week ago. I use a auto heat shield inside the canopy when I leave it
on a ramp, but usually it is kept hangared . Any idea what is causing
this? Has it happened to any one else? 661G is a RV10 2 years old . No
exposure to chemicals that I am aware of.
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
520 Lawrence St.
Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert@brunklaw.com
On Jul 2, 2009, at 2:28 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> I'm not sure if you're saying that I'm wrong, or not. :)
>
> When I said it helps you keep a good climb rate, I was
> intending to mean that you get a tiny bit more lift
> out of the zero degree setting vs. the -3 degree setting.
> So if you're up high over 10,000' and having very
> slow climb rates, you can get a small bump in climb
> rate by going back to zero. Now, you could also
> get a better climb rate at lower altitudes, but, the -10
> generally climbs so well that it may be just as
> practical to "set it and forget it" once you are climbing
> out.
>
> Is that correct from your perspective as a Flight Engineer,
> or not?
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> John Cumins wrote:
>> Ok here comes my 2 cents worth. Being a retired Flight engineer,
>> we have to
>> educate you guys about the -3 degree reflex and zero degrees. As
>> it has
>> been said it is based upon the cord line of the wing.
>> If you drew a cord line it would be straight from leading edge to the
>> trailing edge of the flaps with the flaps in the 0 degree
>> position. With
>> the flaps in the -3 degree reflex position that cord line would
>> bend up 3
>> degrees starting at the leading edge of the flap. So the zero
>> degree position gives the wing its original airfoil shape as
>> designed, and the lift verses drag index is a set reference. Thus
>> higher
>> lift and same lift area and the drag index is the set amount as
>> designed.
>> The 3 degree position actually just reduces the drag index by
>> bringing the
>> aft trailing edge of the wind up and actuallr decreases the amount
>> of lift
>> at slower speeds. Thus the longer take off roll in the -3 degree
>> position.
>> But faster cruise speed. The index of lift vers drag and a very
>> different animal in each airfoil.
>> All large air frames use slotted follower flaps to extend the wing
>> area
>> making the amount of lift greatly increased vers the drag index of
>> the take
>> off flaps position. This can be very confusing to a lot of people
>> and it is
>> about a week class in aero dytnamics to really understand how the
>> wing area-
>> lift vers drag and drag index can change greatly with very small
>> amount of
>> flap movement.
>> I will be glad to chat with any one off line and help educate any
>> one if
>> they want a more in detail lesson on this matter.
>> Have a great and safe flying weekend and 4th of July, And GOD
>> bless each and every one of you and this great country.
>> John Cumins
>> 40864 Priming elevators waiting for it to cool off. -----Original
>> Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 11:12 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
>> It can help when at high altitudes to keep your
>> climb rate better, if you maintain zero degrees.
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>> David McNeill wrote:
>>>
>>> The aircraft was designed to be flown in cruise with reflexed
>>> flaps; why
>>> would anyone cruise with partial flaps? My flaps are selected full
>>> up
>>> shortly after takeoff. Any hanging flap just increases lift by
>>> increasing
>>> angle of attack and thus increases induced drag; hence lower
>>> airspeed for
>> a
>>> given power setting.
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
>>> Cumins
>>> Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 10:25 AM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
>>>
>>>
>>> I second that completely!!!!
>>>
>>> John G. Cumins
>>> President
>>>
>>> JC'S Interactive Systems
>>> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
>>> Fairfield Ca 94533
>>> 707-425-7100
>>> 707-425-7576 Fax
>>>
>>> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
>>> Carpenter
>>> Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 9:59 AM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
>>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> It's observations like this that make this list such a valuable
>>> asset.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jul 2, 2009, at 9:27 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>>>
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>> BTW when I retract the flaps all the way up 30 minutes into the
>>>> flight
>>>> the plane flies faster.
>>>>
>>>> Robin
>>>> Do Not Archive
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
Message 15
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I know some severe cases of genital decrease is caused by acute pucker factor.
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 Wingtips
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251623#251623
Message 16
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http://www.aopa.org/asf/epilot_acc/mia04la070.html?WT.mc_id0703epilot&WT.mc_sect=sap
This is a story of a Cirrus that was washed with tap water and had contamination
in the pitot system. he had erratic gauges then deployed his parachute. He
forgot to use the alternate static source which would have worked. The NTSB
hinted that the cause was flouride in the tap water.
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251625#251625
Message 17
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Jim Berry wrote:
> Orchidman wrote "Mine went up to about 70 KIAS and then did a genital decrease
to zero."
>
> Over the years I have seen a lot of guys in the office whose genitals suffered
a decrease, but I never knew it could affect their airspeed.
>
> Jim Berry
> 40482
> N15JB
Isn't spell check great [Rolling Eyes] but you have to hit the right option
also.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251626#251626
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 windshield crazing |
Windshield crazing took over my airplane inthe last two weeks for no
reason I can determine . The windshield is fiberglassed in place. It
has been very hot . I use a car window inside shade. I will need to
replace it . Any ideas? Robert Brunkenhoefer N661G Corpus Christi,Texas
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
520 Lawrence St.
Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert@brunklaw.com
On Jul 2, 2009, at 1:07 AM, Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Please read over the RV10-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
> RV10-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
> following URL:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV10-List.FAQ.html
>
> Thank you,
>
> Matt Dralle
> Matronics Email List Administrator
>
>
> ***
> ***
> ***
> *********************************************************************
> RV10-List Usage Guidelines
> ***
> ***
> ***
> *********************************************************************
>
> The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV10-List.
> You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules
> therein.
> Failure to use the RV10-List in the manner described below may result
> in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
>
>
> RV10-List Policy Statement
>
> The purpose of the RV10-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
> things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
> are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
> high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
> among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these
> goals
> requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
> the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been
> established:
>
>
> - Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not
> submit
> posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
> lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
>
> - THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
> relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T
> send it.
>
> - Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
> that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be
> concise and
> terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
> responses.
>
> - Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
> aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
> about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
> bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
> space in the archive.
>
> - DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
> easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
> web page or FAQ first.
>
> - If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
> your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
> easy to find threads in the archive.
>
> - When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
> response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
> reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
> quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
> can not be overstated!
>
> - When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
> then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
> "reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
> response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
> your response with the original poster's email address.
>
> - DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
> to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
> agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
> to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
>
> - When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
> comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
> contribute something valuable.
>
> - Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
> polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
> other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
> controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
> will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
>
> - Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
> subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
> List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
> should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
> a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
> is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
> everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
> community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
> operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
>
> -------
>
>
> [This is an automated posting.]
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV10 windshield crazing |
It starting to look like the reflector you are using on the inside of the
window. Here in Northern Ca with heat in the 100's quiet often, a lot of
people use covers and not heat shields. That might be better. Check the
net a lot of people make great covers, but there not cheap.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Brunkenhoefer
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 3:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 windshield crazing
Windshield crazing took over my airplane inthe last two weeks for no
reason I can determine . The windshield is fiberglassed in place. It
has been very hot . I use a car window inside shade. I will need to
replace it . Any ideas? Robert Brunkenhoefer N661G Corpus Christi,Texas
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
520 Lawrence St.
Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert@brunklaw.com
On Jul 2, 2009, at 1:07 AM, Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Please read over the RV10-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
> RV10-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
> following URL:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV10-List.FAQ.html
>
> Thank you,
>
> Matt Dralle
> Matronics Email List Administrator
>
>
> ***
> ***
> ***
> *********************************************************************
> RV10-List Usage Guidelines
> ***
> ***
> ***
> *********************************************************************
>
> The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV10-List.
> You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules
> therein.
> Failure to use the RV10-List in the manner described below may result
> in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
>
>
> RV10-List Policy Statement
>
> The purpose of the RV10-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
> things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
> are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
> high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
> among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these
> goals
> requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
> the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been
> established:
>
>
> - Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not
> submit
> posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
> lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
>
> - THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
> relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T
> send it.
>
> - Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
> that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be
> concise and
> terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
> responses.
>
> - Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
> aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
> about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
> bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
> space in the archive.
>
> - DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
> easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
> web page or FAQ first.
>
> - If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
> your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
> easy to find threads in the archive.
>
> - When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
> response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
> reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
> quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
> can not be overstated!
>
> - When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
> then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
> "reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
> response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
> your response with the original poster's email address.
>
> - DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
> to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
> agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
> to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
>
> - When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
> comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
> contribute something valuable.
>
> - Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
> polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
> other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
> controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
> will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
>
> - Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
> subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
> List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
> should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
> a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
> is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
> everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
> community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
> operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
>
> -------
>
>
> [This is an automated posting.]
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV10 windshield crazing |
i have a great cover but on these 2 trips did not use it . can heat
alone do this?
On Jul 5, 2009, at 5:53 PM, John Cumins wrote:
>
> It starting to look like the reflector you are using on the inside
> of the
> window. Here in Northern Ca with heat in the 100's quiet often, a
> lot of
> people use covers and not heat shields. That might be better.
> Check the
> net a lot of people make great covers, but there not cheap.
>
> John G. Cumins
> President
>
> JC'S Interactive Systems
> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
> Fairfield Ca 94533
> 707-425-7100
> 707-425-7576 Fax
>
> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
> Brunkenhoefer
> Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 3:14 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 windshield crazing
>
> >
>
> Windshield crazing took over my airplane inthe last two weeks for no
> reason I can determine . The windshield is fiberglassed in place. It
> has been very hot . I use a car window inside shade. I will need to
> replace it . Any ideas? Robert Brunkenhoefer N661G Corpus
> Christi,Texas
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
> Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
> 520 Lawrence St.
> Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
> Phone: 361-888-8808
> Facsimile: 361-888-6753
> robert@brunklaw.com
>
> On Jul 2, 2009, at 1:07 AM, Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> Please read over the RV10-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
>> RV10-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
>> following URL:
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV10-List.FAQ.html
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> Matronics Email List Administrator
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ***
>> ***
>> ***
>> *********************************************************************
>> RV10-List Usage Guidelines
>> ***
>> ***
>> ***
>> *********************************************************************
>>
>> The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV10-
>> List.
>> You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules
>> therein.
>> Failure to use the RV10-List in the manner described below may result
>> in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
>>
>>
>> RV10-List Policy Statement
>>
>> The purpose of the RV10-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
>> things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
>> are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
>> high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
>> among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these
>> goals
>> requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member
>> of
>> the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been
>> established:
>>
>>
>> - Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not
>> submit
>> posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
>> lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
>>
>> - THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will
>> be
>> relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T
>> send it.
>>
>> - Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an
>> archive
>> that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be
>> concise and
>> terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
>> responses.
>>
>> - Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email
>> address,
>> aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
>> about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
>> bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
>> space in the archive.
>>
>> - DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
>> easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
>> web page or FAQ first.
>>
>> - If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
>> your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
>> easy to find threads in the archive.
>>
>> - When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
>> response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
>> reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
>> quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
>> can not be overstated!
>>
>> - When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
>> then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
>> "reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
>> response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
>> your response with the original poster's email address.
>>
>> - DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
>> to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
>> agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
>> to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
>>
>> - When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need
>> to
>> comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
>> contribute something valuable.
>>
>> - Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
>> polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
>> other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
>> controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
>> will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
>>
>> - Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
>> subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
>> List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
>> should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
>> a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
>> is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
>> everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
>> community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
>> operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
>>
>> -------
>>
>>
>> [This is an automated posting.]
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 21
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|
The NTSB wasn't hinting at fluoride being the cause, but that the water's source
was from tap water and not condensation or rain. However here is proof of fluoride's
general danger.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251636#251636
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/flouridevscommunism_211.jpg
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV10 windshield crazing |
what is the composition of our stock vans windshield/? can crazing be
repaired/ robert
On Jul 5, 2009, at 5:53 PM, John Cumins wrote:
>
> It starting to look like the reflector you are using on the inside
> of the
> window. Here in Northern Ca with heat in the 100's quiet often, a
> lot of
> people use covers and not heat shields. That might be better.
> Check the
> net a lot of people make great covers, but there not cheap.
>
> John G. Cumins
> President
>
> JC'S Interactive Systems
> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
> Fairfield Ca 94533
> 707-425-7100
> 707-425-7576 Fax
>
> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
> Brunkenhoefer
> Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 3:14 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 windshield crazing
>
> >
>
> Windshield crazing took over my airplane inthe last two weeks for no
> reason I can determine . The windshield is fiberglassed in place. It
> has been very hot . I use a car window inside shade. I will need to
> replace it . Any ideas? Robert Brunkenhoefer N661G Corpus
> Christi,Texas
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
> Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
> 520 Lawrence St.
> Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
> Phone: 361-888-8808
> Facsimile: 361-888-6753
> robert@brunklaw.com
>
> On Jul 2, 2009, at 1:07 AM, Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> Please read over the RV10-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
>> RV10-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
>> following URL:
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV10-List.FAQ.html
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> Matronics Email List Administrator
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ***
>> ***
>> ***
>> *********************************************************************
>> RV10-List Usage Guidelines
>> ***
>> ***
>> ***
>> *********************************************************************
>>
>> The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV10-
>> List.
>> You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules
>> therein.
>> Failure to use the RV10-List in the manner described below may result
>> in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
>>
>>
>> RV10-List Policy Statement
>>
>> The purpose of the RV10-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
>> things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
>> are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
>> high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
>> among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these
>> goals
>> requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member
>> of
>> the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been
>> established:
>>
>>
>> - Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not
>> submit
>> posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
>> lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
>>
>> - THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will
>> be
>> relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T
>> send it.
>>
>> - Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an
>> archive
>> that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be
>> concise and
>> terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
>> responses.
>>
>> - Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email
>> address,
>> aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
>> about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
>> bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
>> space in the archive.
>>
>> - DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
>> easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
>> web page or FAQ first.
>>
>> - If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
>> your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
>> easy to find threads in the archive.
>>
>> - When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
>> response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
>> reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
>> quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
>> can not be overstated!
>>
>> - When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
>> then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
>> "reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
>> response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
>> your response with the original poster's email address.
>>
>> - DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
>> to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
>> agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
>> to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
>>
>> - When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need
>> to
>> comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
>> contribute something valuable.
>>
>> - Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
>> polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
>> other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
>> controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
>> will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
>>
>> - Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
>> subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
>> List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
>> should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
>> a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
>> is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
>> everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
>> community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
>> operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
>>
>> -------
>>
>>
>> [This is an automated posting.]
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | spare fuel caps for sale |
Builders,
I have a new-in-box Newton non-locking deluxe fuel cap and flange, plus an
extra cap. Van's price is $100; their P/N is FUEL CAP DELUX. This is the
upgrade cap intended for slow-build tanks. It doesn't fit an existing tank.
I'll take $65 for the complete set including an extra cap, which is a nice
thing to have in the plane.
First come first served.
--
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV10 windshield crazing |
I would suspect some chemical "outgassing" from the automobile window shade
you are using. Years ago a medical device my company made had a rash of
cracks on a battery door, all from the southwestern states and only in the
summer time. It turned out to be caused by the foam in the packing cases
outgassing a chemical that attacked the polycarbonate. Plexiglas (acrylic)
is notoriously sensitive to certain chemcials, such as isopropyl alchohol,
and can crack at stress levels far below what it would take to crack it in
the absence of such agents.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 6:54 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10 windshield crazing
It starting to look like the reflector you are using on the inside of the
window. Here in Northern Ca with heat in the 100's quiet often, a lot of
people use covers and not heat shields. That might be better. Check the
net a lot of people make great covers, but there not cheap.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Brunkenhoefer
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 3:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 windshield crazing
Windshield crazing took over my airplane inthe last two weeks for no
reason I can determine . The windshield is fiberglassed in place. It
has been very hot . I use a car window inside shade. I will need to
replace it . Any ideas? Robert Brunkenhoefer N661G Corpus Christi,Texas
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
520 Lawrence St.
Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert@brunklaw.com
On Jul 2, 2009, at 1:07 AM, Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Please read over the RV10-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
> RV10-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
> following URL:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV10-List.FAQ.html
>
> Thank you,
>
> Matt Dralle
> Matronics Email List Administrator
>
>
> ***
> ***
> ***
> *********************************************************************
> RV10-List Usage Guidelines
> ***
> ***
> ***
> *********************************************************************
>
> The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV10-List.
> You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules
> therein.
> Failure to use the RV10-List in the manner described below may result
> in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
>
>
> RV10-List Policy Statement
>
> The purpose of the RV10-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
> things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
> are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
> high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
> among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these
> goals
> requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
> the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been
> established:
>
>
> - Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not
> submit
> posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
> lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
>
> - THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
> relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T
> send it.
>
> - Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
> that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be
> concise and
> terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
> responses.
>
> - Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
> aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
> about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
> bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
> space in the archive.
>
> - DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
> easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
> web page or FAQ first.
>
> - If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
> your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
> easy to find threads in the archive.
>
> - When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
> response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
> reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
> quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
> can not be overstated!
>
> - When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
> then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
> "reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
> response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
> your response with the original poster's email address.
>
> - DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
> to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
> agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
> to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
>
> - When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
> comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
> contribute something valuable.
>
> - Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
> polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
> other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
> controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
> will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
>
> - Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
> subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
> List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
> should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
> a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
> is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
> everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
> community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
> operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
>
> -------
>
>
> [This is an automated posting.]
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 windshield crazing |
I don't know for sure, but it's probably acrylic (read plexiglas).
Almost all windshields are made from acrylic because it retains it's
clarity when being formed.
Crazing is small cracks in the interior of the acrylic. No fix for
crazing. I think crazing is due to large temp differences between the
surfaces and/or temp cycling. Acrylics become brittle with age.
Acrylics can be bonded together ..... you can 'fix' a crack and it will
be structurally sound but the line will still be there although fainter
than the crack.
Robert Brunkenhoefer wrote:
> <rebrunk42@gmail.com>
>
> what is the composition of our stock vans windshield/? can crazing be
> repaired/ robert
> On Jul 5, 2009, at 5:53 PM, John Cumins wrote:
Message 26
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I've been working on installing the doors. For those of you that have
completed that step, when y ou open the doors, does the gas cylinder
stop so that both doors open the same amount ..... are they mirror
images of each other???? If so, and tghey didn't start out that way
.... what was the fix???
Linn
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 windshield crazing |
One chemical I doubt Plexiglass is sensitive to is isopropyl alcohol. On my
Mooney the non-hardening PRC1428 (or CS3330) is used for sealing the
windows, and excess is cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol in copious
quantities. I did that in 2003, no signs of any distress since. More likely
problems with what is combined with isopropyl, rather than using the pure
product.
On Sun, Jul 5, 2009 at 5:30 PM, Jack Phillips <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>wrote:
>
> I would suspect some chemical "outgassing" from the automobile window shade
> you are using. Years ago a medical device my company made had a rash of
> cracks on a battery door, all from the southwestern states and only in the
> summer time. It turned out to be caused by the foam in the packing cases
> outgassing a chemical that attacked the polycarbonate. Plexiglas (acrylic)
> is notoriously sensitive to certain chemcials, such as isopropyl alchohol,
> and can crack at stress levels far below what it would take to crack it in
> the absence of such agents.
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610
> Wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
> Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 6:54 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10 windshield crazing
>
>
> It starting to look like the reflector you are using on the inside of the
> window. Here in Northern Ca with heat in the 100's quiet often, a lot of
> people use covers and not heat shields. That might be better. Check the
> net a lot of people make great covers, but there not cheap.
>
> John G. Cumins
> President
>
> JC'S Interactive Systems
> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
> Fairfield Ca 94533
> 707-425-7100
> 707-425-7576 Fax
>
> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
> Brunkenhoefer
> Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 3:14 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 windshield crazing
>
> >
>
> Windshield crazing took over my airplane inthe last two weeks for no
> reason I can determine . The windshield is fiberglassed in place. It
> has been very hot . I use a car window inside shade. I will need to
> replace it . Any ideas? Robert Brunkenhoefer N661G Corpus Christi,Texas
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
> Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
> 520 Lawrence St.
> Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
> Phone: 361-888-8808
> Facsimile: 361-888-6753
> robert@brunklaw.com
>
> On Jul 2, 2009, at 1:07 AM, Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > Dear Listers,
> >
> > Please read over the RV10-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
> > RV10-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
> > following URL:
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV10-List.FAQ.html
> >
> > Thank you,
> >
> > Matt Dralle
> > Matronics Email List Administrator
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > *********************************************************************
> > RV10-List Usage Guidelines
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> > *********************************************************************
> >
> > The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV10-List.
> > You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules
> > therein.
> > Failure to use the RV10-List in the manner described below may result
> > in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
> >
> >
> > RV10-List Policy Statement
> >
> > The purpose of the RV10-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
> > things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
> > are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
> > high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
> > among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these
> > goals
> > requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
> > the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been
> > established:
> >
> >
> > - Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not
> > submit
> > posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
> > lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
> >
> > - THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
> > relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T
> > send it.
> >
> > - Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
> > that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be
> > concise and
> > terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
> > responses.
> >
> > - Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
> > aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
> > about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
> > bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
> > space in the archive.
> >
> > - DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
> > easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
> > web page or FAQ first.
> >
> > - If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
> > your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
> > easy to find threads in the archive.
> >
> > - When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
> > response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
> > reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
> > quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
> > can not be overstated!
> >
> > - When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
> > then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
> > "reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
> > response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
> > your response with the original poster's email address.
> >
> > - DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
> > to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
> > agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
> > to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
> >
> > - When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
> > comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
> > contribute something valuable.
> >
> > - Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
> > polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
> > other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
> > controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
> > will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
> >
> > - Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
> > subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
> > List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
> > should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
> > a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
> > is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
> > everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
> > community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
> > operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
> >
> > -------
> >
> >
> > [This is an automated posting.]
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV10 windshield crazing |
I was just saying that isopropyl alcohol is ONE of many chemicals that can
attack acrylics. I just retired from a medical device company, and I can
assure your that our valves, made of an acrylic plastic, crack very readily
if hospital nurses swab them with isopropyl alcohol. There are many
different acrylics, Plexiglas or Lustran being just a couple, but all of
them are more or less susceptible to attack by various chemicals. Since
this crazing occurred during hot weather conditions, and high temperatures
can make some substances outgas I am suggesting that this might have caused
the crazing. I've seen it happen before. It could be from the sunshades,
or the carpet or any of a number of items. Did you ever notice the film
that gets deposited on the inside of your car's windshield in the summer?
Many components in automobiles used to be made of vinyl, and the
plasticizers added to make the vinyl flexible would outgas in hot weather
and make a film on the windshield.
Jack Phillips
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 9:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10 windshield crazing
One chemical I doubt Plexiglass is sensitive to is isopropyl alcohol. On my
Mooney the non-hardening PRC1428 (or CS3330) is used for sealing the
windows, and excess is cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol in copious
quantities. I did that in 2003, no signs of any distress since. More likely
problems with what is combined with isopropyl, rather than using the pure
product.
On Sun, Jul 5, 2009 at 5:30 PM, Jack Phillips <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
wrote:
I would suspect some chemical "outgassing" from the automobile window shade
you are using. Years ago a medical device my company made had a rash of
cracks on a battery door, all from the southwestern states and only in the
summer time. It turned out to be caused by the foam in the packing cases
outgassing a chemical that attacked the polycarbonate. Plexiglas (acrylic)
is notoriously sensitive to certain chemcials, such as isopropyl alchohol,
and can crack at stress levels far below what it would take to crack it in
the absence of such agents.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 6:54 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10 windshield crazing
It starting to look like the reflector you are using on the inside of the
window. Here in Northern Ca with heat in the 100's quiet often, a lot of
people use covers and not heat shields. That might be better. Check the
net a lot of people make great covers, but there not cheap.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Brunkenhoefer
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 3:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 windshield crazing
Windshield crazing took over my airplane inthe last two weeks for no
reason I can determine . The windshield is fiberglassed in place. It
has been very hot . I use a car window inside shade. I will need to
replace it . Any ideas? Robert Brunkenhoefer N661G Corpus Christi,Texas
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
520 Lawrence St.
Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert@brunklaw.com
On Jul 2, 2009, at 1:07 AM, Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Please read over the RV10-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
> RV10-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
> following URL:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV10-List.FAQ.html
>
> Thank you,
>
> Matt Dralle
> Matronics Email List Administrator
>
>
> ***
> ***
> ***
> *********************************************************************
> RV10-List Usage Guidelines
> ***
> ***
> ***
> *********************************************************************
>
> The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV10-List.
> You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules
> therein.
> Failure to use the RV10-List in the manner described below may result
> in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
>
>
> RV10-List Policy Statement
>
> The purpose of the RV10-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
> things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
> are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
> high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
> among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these
> goals
> requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
> the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been
> established:
>
>
> - Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not
> submit
> posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
> lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
>
> - THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
> relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T
> send it.
>
> - Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
> that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be
> concise and
> terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
> responses.
>
> - Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
> aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
> about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
> bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
> space in the archive.
>
> - DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
> easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
> web page or FAQ first.
>
> - If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
> your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
> easy to find threads in the archive.
>
> - When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
> response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
> reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
> quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
> can not be overstated!
>
> - When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
> then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
> "reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
> response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
> your response with the original poster's email address.
>
> - DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
> to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
> agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
> to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
>
> - When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
> comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
> contribute something valuable.
>
> - Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
> polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
> other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
> controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
> will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
>
> - Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
> subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
> List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
> should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
> a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
> is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
> everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
> community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
> operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
>
> -------
>
>
> [This is an automated posting.]
>
> do not archive
>
>
==========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
Message 29
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|
Lynn,
I would have never thought about this myself, but someone mentioned here a while
ago that he has seen a few RV-10s with doors that aren't symmetrical when opened.
When installing the 2nd door strut, I lined up the doors then drilled the strut
attach bracket with the door strut (not the aluminum jig) installed and extended.
It worked out good.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251669#251669
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot test rig (was Pitot cover) |
Nice post!
Kevin
40494
tail/empennage
do not archive
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 windshield crazing |
You make a very good point. I will look for things that coud hve
caused this problem.
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
520 Lawrence St.
Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert@brunklaw.com
On Jul 5, 2009, at 8:40 PM, "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
wrote:
> I was just saying that isopropyl alcohol is ONE of many chemicals
> that can attack acrylics. I just retired from a medical device
> company, and I can assure your that our valves, made of an acrylic
> plastic, crack very readily if hospital nurses swab them with
> isopropyl alcohol. There are many different acrylics, Plexiglas or
> Lustran being just a couple, but all of them are more or less
> susceptible to attack by various chemicals. Since this crazing
> occurred during hot weather conditions, and high temperatures can
> make some substances outgas I am suggesting that this might have
> caused the crazing. I=99ve seen it happen before. It could be
from t
> he sunshades, or the carpet or any of a number of items. Did you ev
> er notice the film that gets deposited on the inside of your car=99
s w
> indshield in the summer? Many components in automobiles used to be
> made of vinyl, and the plasticizers added to make the vinyl flexible
> would outgas in hot weather and make a film on the windshield.
>
> Jack Phillips
> Raleigh, NC
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 9:00 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10 windshield crazing
>
> One chemical I doubt Plexiglass is sensitive to is isopropyl
> alcohol. On my Mooney the non-hardening PRC1428 (or CS3330) is used
> for sealing the windows, and excess is cleaned off with isopropyl
> alcohol in copious quantities. I did that in 2003, no signs of any
> distress since. More likely problems with what is combined with
> isopropyl, rather than using the pure product.
>
> On Sun, Jul 5, 2009 at 5:30 PM, Jack Phillips
> <pietflyr@bellsouth.net> wrote:
<pietflyr@bellsouth.net
> >
>
> I would suspect some chemical "outgassing" from the automobile
> window shade
> you are using. Years ago a medical device my company made had a
> rash of
> cracks on a battery door, all from the southwestern states and only
> in the
> summer time. It turned out to be caused by the foam in the packing
> cases
> outgassing a chemical that attacked the polycarbonate. Plexiglas
> (acrylic)
> is notoriously sensitive to certain chemcials, such as isopropyl
> alchohol,
> and can crack at stress levels far below what it would take to crack
> it in
> the absence of such agents.
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610
> Wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
> Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 6:54 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10 windshield crazing
>
>
> It starting to look like the reflector you are using on the inside
> of the
> window. Here in Northern Ca with heat in the 100's quiet often, a
> lot of
> people use covers and not heat shields. That might be better.
> Check the
> net a lot of people make great covers, but there not cheap.
>
> John G. Cumins
> President
>
> JC'S Interactive Systems
> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
> Fairfield Ca 94533
> 707-425-7100
> 707-425-7576 Fax
>
> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
> Brunkenhoefer
> Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 3:14 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 windshield crazing
>
<rebrunk42@gmail.com
> >
>
> Windshield crazing took over my airplane inthe last two weeks for no
> reason I can determine . The windshield is fiberglassed in place. It
> has been very hot . I use a car window inside shade. I will need to
> replace it . Any ideas? Robert Brunkenhoefer N661G Corpus
> Christi,Texas
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
> Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
> 520 Lawrence St.
> Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
> Phone: 361-888-8808
> Facsimile: 361-888-6753
> robert@brunklaw.com
>
> On Jul 2, 2009, at 1:07 AM, Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > Dear Listers,
> >
> > Please read over the RV10-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
> > RV10-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
> > following URL:
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV10-List.FAQ.html
> >
> > Thank you,
> >
> > Matt Dralle
> > Matronics Email List Administrator
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> >
> *********************************************************************
> > RV10-List Usage Guidelines
> > ***
> > ***
> > ***
> >
> *********************************************************************
> >
> > The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV10-
> List.
> > You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules
> > therein.
> > Failure to use the RV10-List in the manner described below may
> result
> > in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
> >
> >
> > RV10-List Policy Statement
> >
> > The purpose of the RV10-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
> > things related to this particular discussion group. The List's
> goals
> > are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
> > high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster
> camaraderie
> > among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these
> > goals
> > requires the participation and cooperation of each and every
> member of
> > the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been
> > established:
> >
> >
> > - Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not
> > submit
> > posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor,
> long
> > lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
> >
> > - THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post
> will be
> > relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T
> > send it.
> >
> > - Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an
> archive
> > that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be
> > concise and
> > terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
> > responses.
> >
> > - Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email
> address,
> > aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
> > about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
> > bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
> > space in the archive.
> >
> > - DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
> > easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult
> the
> > web page or FAQ first.
> >
> > - If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
> > your response the same as that of the original post. This makes
> it
> > easy to find threads in the archive.
> >
> > - When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
> > response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in"
> the
> > reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
> > quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
> > can not be overstated!
> >
> > - When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
> > then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
> > "reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
> > response to the original poster. You might have to actively
> address
> > your response with the original poster's email address.
> >
> > - DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
> > to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
> > agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better
> sent
> > to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
> >
> > - When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you
> need to
> > comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
> > contribute something valuable.
> >
> > - Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
> > polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally
> attack
> > other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
> > controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
> > will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
> >
> > - Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
> > subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
> > List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
> > should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
> > a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
> > is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
> > everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
> > community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
> > operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
> >
> > -------
> >
> >
> > [This is an automated posting.]
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 windshield crazing |
Good info.I now need to find a replacement and an installer. Ideas?
suggestions?
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
520 Lawrence St.
Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert@brunklaw.com
On Jul 5, 2009, at 7:53 PM, Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
wrote:
> >
>
> I don't know for sure, but it's probably acrylic (read plexiglas).
> Almost all windshields are made from acrylic because it retains it's
> clarity when being formed.
>
> Crazing is small cracks in the interior of the acrylic. No fix for
> crazing. I think crazing is due to large temp differences between
> the surfaces and/or temp cycling. Acrylics become brittle with age.
>
> Acrylics can be bonded together ..... you can 'fix' a crack and it
> will be structurally sound but the line will still be there although
> fainter than the crack.
>
> Robert Brunkenhoefer wrote:
>> >
>>
>> what is the composition of our stock vans windshield/? can crazing
>> be repaired/ robert
>> On Jul 5, 2009, at 5:53 PM, John Cumins wrote:
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 windshield crazing |
I was going to say basically the same thing. I think Jack may
be on to something.
As for the crazing, you could have any number of things in the
plane that could outgas in the heat. My wife's newer car
windshield gets coated with a pretty thick hazy film in the
heat, from the plasticisers offgassing. My older cars get
it too, but the older the car the less the film buildup.
They say that cars are actually a pretty toxic environment
for the first couple years. (Guess I should be glad I
pretty much drive beaters) So with new carpet, vinyl,
leather softners on the seats, glareshield vinyl, or
many of the things people put in the planes, it's possible
that during the heat some chemicals built up on the windshield.
And perhaps using a sunshield (which does a great job reflecting
some of the heat to keep the plane a little cooler) made it
worse. If some of that light reflected back against the
windshield, the interior of the plane may be pretty cool, but
the plexi temp might have actually been HIGHER than it would
have been if there weren't any sun shield in there.
I can also tell you that over the past couple years
I've used spring-open sun-shades from walmart, fold open silver ones
from walmart, and used my cabin cover. I have the tiniest scratches
on the inside of my windshield now from using the sunshades. I thought
that they would be soft enough to not do anything, but I don't believe
that was the case...just putting them in and out maybe 6 times a year
for the first couple years seems to have left scratches, so now I'm
more inclined to just use a full thin travel cabin cover. The one
I got from Abby is white so reflects the sun well, and it's black
and sun proof on the inside. If the windshield is going to be
scratched, I'd rather have it scratched on the outside where it's
easy to buff out with micromesh. Also, the cabin cover would
keep the light from passing through the plexi and being reflected
back at it...so perhaps a cabin cover is the safer way to go
for your plexi.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Jack Phillips wrote:
> I was just saying that isopropyl alcohol is ONE of many chemicals that
> can attack acrylics. I just retired from a medical device company, and
> I can assure your that our valves, made of an acrylic plastic, crack
> very readily if hospital nurses swab them with isopropyl alcohol. There
> are many different acrylics, Plexiglas or Lustran being just a couple,
> but all of them are more or less susceptible to attack by various
> chemicals. Since this crazing occurred during hot weather conditions,
> and high temperatures can make some substances outgas I am suggesting
> that this might have caused the crazing. Ive seen it happen before.
> It could be from the sunshades, or the carpet or any of a number of
> items. Did you ever notice the film that gets deposited on the inside
> of your cars windshield in the summer? Many components in automobiles
> used to be made of vinyl, and the plasticizers added to make the vinyl
> flexible would outgas in hot weather and make a film on the windshield.
>
>
>
> Jack Phillips
>
> Raleigh, NC
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly McMullen
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 05, 2009 9:00 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10 windshield crazing
>
>
>
> One chemical I doubt Plexiglass is sensitive to is isopropyl alcohol. On
> my Mooney the non-hardening PRC1428 (or CS3330) is used for sealing the
> windows, and excess is cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol in copious
> quantities. I did that in 2003, no signs of any distress since. More
> likely problems with what is combined with isopropyl, rather than using
> the pure product.
>
> On Sun, Jul 5, 2009 at 5:30 PM, Jack Phillips <pietflyr@bellsouth.net
> <mailto:pietflyr@bellsouth.net>> wrote:
>
> <mailto:pietflyr@bellsouth.net>>
>
> I would suspect some chemical "outgassing" from the automobile window shade
> you are using. Years ago a medical device my company made had a rash of
> cracks on a battery door, all from the southwestern states and only in the
> summer time. It turned out to be caused by the foam in the packing cases
> outgassing a chemical that attacked the polycarbonate. Plexiglas (acrylic)
> is notoriously sensitive to certain chemcials, such as isopropyl alchohol,
> and can crack at stress levels far below what it would take to crack it in
> the absence of such agents.
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610
> Wings
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] On Behalf Of John Cumins
> Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 6:54 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10 windshield crazing
>
> <mailto:jcumins@jcis.net>>
>
> It starting to look like the reflector you are using on the inside of the
> window. Here in Northern Ca with heat in the 100's quiet often, a lot of
> people use covers and not heat shields. That might be better. Check the
> net a lot of people make great covers, but there not cheap.
>
> John G. Cumins
> President
>
> JC'S Interactive Systems
> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
> Fairfield Ca 94533
> 707-425-7100
> 707-425-7576 Fax
>
> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] On Behalf Of Robert
> Brunkenhoefer
> Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 3:14 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 windshield crazing
>
> <rebrunk42@gmail.com <mailto:rebrunk42@gmail.com>>
>
> Windshield crazing took over my airplane inthe last two weeks for no
> reason I can determine . The windshield is fiberglassed in place. It
> has been very hot . I use a car window inside shade. I will need to
> replace it . Any ideas? Robert Brunkenhoefer N661G Corpus Christi,Texas
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
> Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
> 520 Lawrence St.
> Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
> Phone: 361-888-8808
> Facsimile: 361-888-6753
> robert@brunklaw.com <mailto:robert@brunklaw.com>
>
> On Jul 2, 2009, at 1:07 AM, Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com
> <mailto:dralle@matronics.com>> wrote:
>
> <mailto:dralle@matronics.com>>
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> Please read over the RV10-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
>> RV10-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
>> following URL:
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV10-List.FAQ.html
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> Matronics Email List Administrator
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ***
>> ***
>> ***
>> *********************************************************************
>> RV10-List Usage Guidelines
>> ***
>> ***
>> ***
>> *********************************************************************
>>
>> The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV10-List.
>> You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules
>> therein.
>> Failure to use the RV10-List in the manner described below may result
>> in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
>>
>>
>> RV10-List Policy Statement
>>
>> The purpose of the RV10-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
>> things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
>> are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
>> high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
>> among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these
>> goals
>> requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
>> the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been
>> established:
>>
>>
>> - Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not
>> submit
>> posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
>> lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
>>
>> - THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
>> relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T
>> send it.
>>
>> - Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
>> that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be
>> concise and
>> terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
>> responses.
>>
>> - Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
>> aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
>> about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
>> bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
>> space in the archive.
>>
>> - DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
>> easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
>> web page or FAQ first.
>>
>> - If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
>> your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
>> easy to find threads in the archive.
>>
>> - When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
>> response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
>> reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
>> quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
>> can not be overstated!
>>
>> - When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
>> then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
>> "reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
>> response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
>> your response with the original poster's email address.
>>
>> - DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
>> to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
>> agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
>> to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
>>
>> - When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
>> comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
>> contribute something valuable.
>>
>> - Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
>> polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
>> other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
>> controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
>> will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
>>
>> - Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
>> subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
>> List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
>> should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
>> a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
>> is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
>> everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
>> community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
>> operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
>>
>> -------
>>
>>
>> [This is an automated posting.]
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
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Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 windshield crazing |
Van's should be able to sell you a windshield easy enough,
and then it's just a matter of grinding it away and re-doing
all that pain in the butt work you had to do the first time.
So it shouldn't be too hard to do if you've done one before,
just time consuming. I was just looking at mine yesterday,
pondering how I'd go about repainting if I ever had to
replace the windshield. I think I could get by with
repainting maybe a pint or quart's worth of paint, just
doing down to the upper forward fuselage seam, to the
firewall, and on the top going back to the door hinges or
so. The repainting is the part I'd find the worst part
of the job.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Robert Brunkenhoefer wrote:
>
> Good info.I now need to find a replacement and an installer.
> Ideas?suggestions?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
> Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
> 520 Lawrence St.
> Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
> Phone: 361-888-8808
> Facsimile: 361-888-6753
> robert@brunklaw.com
>
> On Jul 5, 2009, at 7:53 PM, Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> I don't know for sure, but it's probably acrylic (read plexiglas).
>> Almost all windshields are made from acrylic because it retains it's
>> clarity when being formed.
>>
>> Crazing is small cracks in the interior of the acrylic. No fix for
>> crazing. I think crazing is due to large temp differences between the
>> surfaces and/or temp cycling. Acrylics become brittle with age.
>>
>> Acrylics can be bonded together ..... you can 'fix' a crack and it
>> will be structurally sound but the line will still be there although
>> fainter than the crack.
>>
>> Robert Brunkenhoefer wrote:
>>> <rebrunk42@gmail.com>
>>>
>>> what is the composition of our stock vans windshield/? can crazing be
>>> repaired/ robert
>>> On Jul 5, 2009, at 5:53 PM, John Cumins wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV10 windshield crazing |
This thread has taken a turn for the worse. I don't even want to think
about replacing any windows at this point.
Find out what the cause is but unless it's really bad live with it.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10 windshield crazing
Van's should be able to sell you a windshield easy enough,
and then it's just a matter of grinding it away and re-doing
all that pain in the butt work you had to do the first time.
So it shouldn't be too hard to do if you've done one before,
just time consuming. I was just looking at mine yesterday,
pondering how I'd go about repainting if I ever had to
replace the windshield. I think I could get by with
repainting maybe a pint or quart's worth of paint, just
doing down to the upper forward fuselage seam, to the
firewall, and on the top going back to the door hinges or
so. The repainting is the part I'd find the worst part
of the job.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Robert Brunkenhoefer wrote:
<rebrunk42@gmail.com>
>
> Good info.I now need to find a replacement and an installer.
> Ideas?suggestions?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
> Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
> 520 Lawrence St.
> Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
> Phone: 361-888-8808
> Facsimile: 361-888-6753
> robert@brunklaw.com
>
> On Jul 5, 2009, at 7:53 PM, Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
wrote:
>
<pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> I don't know for sure, but it's probably acrylic (read plexiglas).
>> Almost all windshields are made from acrylic because it retains it's
>> clarity when being formed.
>>
>> Crazing is small cracks in the interior of the acrylic. No fix for
>> crazing. I think crazing is due to large temp differences between
the
>> surfaces and/or temp cycling. Acrylics become brittle with age.
>>
>> Acrylics can be bonded together ..... you can 'fix' a crack and it
>> will be structurally sound but the line will still be there although
>> fainter than the crack.
>>
>> Robert Brunkenhoefer wrote:
>>> <rebrunk42@gmail.com>
>>>
>>> what is the composition of our stock vans windshield/? can crazing
be
>>> repaired/ robert
>>> On Jul 5, 2009, at 5:53 PM, John Cumins wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
07/05/09 17:54:00
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