RV10-List Digest Archive

Tue 07/14/09


Total Messages Posted: 17



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:34 AM - Re: LSE cooling (orchidman)
     2. 06:46 AM - RV 10 tail kit for sale (Rlepre)
     3. 07:46 AM - Re: static lines (jayb)
     4. 08:41 AM - High Oil temps (Albert Gardner)
     5. 09:16 AM - 9v LED light srip? (Miller John)
     6. 10:12 AM - Re: 9v LED light srip? (Steve Stella)
     7. 10:12 AM - Re: 9v LED light srip? (Steve Stella)
     8. 12:44 PM - Re: LSE cooling (Robert Brunkenhoefer)
     9. 02:28 PM - bottom skin lap joint (Strasnuts)
    10. 04:09 PM - Re: High Oil temps (Michael Kraus)
    11. 04:44 PM - Re: High Oil temps (James McGrew)
    12. 05:02 PM - Re: bottom skin lap joint (Fred Williams, M.D.)
    13. 06:00 PM - Door latch mod (johngoodman)
    14. 06:05 PM - Re: bottom skin lap joint and phase one complete!!! (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
    15. 07:39 PM - Re: Door latch mod (Linn Walters)
    16. 07:56 PM - Tube Bender (Rob Hunter)
    17. 08:37 PM - Re: High Oil temps (richard sipp)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:34:44 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: LSE cooling
    From: "orchidman" <gary@wingscc.com>
    I used a 3/4" long piece of 3/8" I.D. plastic tubing on the LS and then the tubing from Stein slipped right over the plastic tubing. Slit both of them and then zip tie them. Made a very simple, tight, firm connection. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 (N2GB Flying) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=252923#252923


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:46:52 AM PST US
    Subject: RV 10 tail kit for sale
    From: "Rlepre" <RLaviation@aol.com>
    I have an assembled RV10 tail kit for sale. I can deliver. Contact me at RLaviation@aol.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=252949#252949


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:46:17 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: static lines
    From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
    At one point someone gave me some leftover pitot stuff (not sure where it came from). It had crappy connectors - nothing metal and sorry cheap plastic. Anything that looked cheesy went straight into the trash as this system needs to be reliable (my wife always asks!). I ordered the safeair1 kit from www.safeair1.com/index.htm. Nice stuff... but I have dual GRT AHRS and needed additional fittings than were supplied. Most of what was needed, I found (and ordered) from McMaster-Carr. Also ended up ordering a couple of multi-manifold fittings from Stein although McMaster has some too. It's best to inventory everything and then figure out what's missing before going crazy ordering stuff. The attached diagram helped. Regards, Jay 5181K234 (Same as 5181K23) - Crack-Resistant Polyethylene Tubing .170" ID, 1/4" OD, .04" Wall Thickness, Green http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/110/=2qpy9h http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/170/=2qpruv 5111K385 Polybutylene & Brass Push-to-Connect Fitting 90 Deg Elbow for 1/4" Tube OD X 1/8" NPT Female 5111K221 - Polybutylene & Brass Push-to-Connect Fitting Swvl 90 Deg Elbow for 1/4" Tube OD X 1/8" NPT Male 5111K81 - Polybutylene & Brass Push-to-Connect Fitting Adapter for 1/4" Tube OD X 1/8" NPT Male Pipe 5111K271 - Polybutylene & Brass Push-to-Connect Fitting Swivel Branch Tee for 1/4" Tube OD X 1/8" NPT Male Multi-Manifold fittings: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/171/=2qput3 Clippard TV-2SP - Panel mount static Pitot test switch... 2-way toggle valve w/ 1/8 npt http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=TV-2SP Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=252955#252955 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/pitotplumbing_912.pdf


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:41:32 AM PST US
    From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
    Subject: High Oil temps
    I think I have my high oil temps problem under control finally. I previously had added a high capacity oil cooler on the right side but still was seeing temps climbing too high now that summer is upon us. I added 2 non-retractable cowl flaps on the bottom. The rectangular opening in the cowl is 4 x 9 inches. The opening at the rear is 2 x 4 inches. They are non-retractable because the mufflers would interfere. This seems to be a final fix. I'll try it tomorrow with daytime temps at 111. Good thing KNYL is at 216'. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ N991RV


    Message 5


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    Time: 09:16:34 AM PST US
    From: Miller John <gengrumpy@aol.com>
    Subject: 9v LED light srip?
    Some time back I seem to recall seeing one of the parts guys offer for sale LED light strips powered by 9v batteries with a dimmer (which I'm wanting to install under the glare shield). Does anyone on the new recall who made this offer? A search of the web hasn't turned anything up. Thanks - grumpy N184JM do not archive


    Message 6


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    Time: 10:12:21 AM PST US
    From: "Steve Stella" <Sstella@incisaledge.com>
    Subject: 9v LED light srip?
    Disregard that, Steins are 12V hard wired -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller John Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 12:02 PM Subject: RV10-List: 9v LED light srip? Some time back I seem to recall seeing one of the parts guys offer for sale LED light strips powered by 9v batteries with a dimmer (which I'm wanting to install under the glare shield). Does anyone on the new recall who made this offer? A search of the web hasn't turned anything up. Thanks - grumpy N184JM do not archive


    Message 7


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    Time: 10:12:21 AM PST US
    From: "Steve Stella" <Sstella@incisaledge.com>
    Subject: 9v LED light srip?
    Stein sells them. Steve Stella #40654 Wings N521RV reserved -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller John Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 12:02 PM Subject: RV10-List: 9v LED light srip? Some time back I seem to recall seeing one of the parts guys offer for sale LED light strips powered by 9v batteries with a dimmer (which I'm wanting to install under the glare shield). Does anyone on the new recall who made this offer? A search of the web hasn't turned anything up. Thanks - grumpy N184JM do not archive


    Message 8


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    Time: 12:44:48 PM PST US
    From: Robert Brunkenhoefer <rebrunk42@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: LSE cooling
    an adapter from home depot works well. robert brunkenhoefer N661G flying On Jul 13, 2009, at 8:53 PM, John Testement wrote: > > > > What did you or others use to transition from the cooling fan tubing > to the > Lightspeed cooling port > > John Testement > N311RV > #40321 Flying > > Do not archive > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert > Brunkenhoefer > Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 11:49 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: LSE cooling > > --> <rebrunk42@gmail.com> > > that's what i use. hooking one port to the cooling intake port on > the unit. > klaus said to do it that way. robert On Jul 7, 2009, at 12:51 AM, > partner14 > wrote: > >> --> <building_partner@yahoo.com >>> >> >> For those of you with the Lightspeed ignition, how are you cooling >> the >> main box? Spruce carries several cooling fans, most with multiple >> ports. Is this the only answer? >> >> -------- >> Don A. McDonald >> 40636 >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251881#251881 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > 17:55:00 > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 02:28:46 PM PST US
    Subject: bottom skin lap joint
    From: "Strasnuts" <sean@braunandco.com>
    Did anyone else sand down the bottom skin lap joints similar to the wing skins? -------- Cust. #40936 A&amp;P, ATP typed CE-525(s), CE-500 RV-10 SB Fuselage N801VR reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=253026#253026


    Message 10


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    Time: 04:09:17 PM PST US
    From: Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
    Subject: Re: High Oil temps
    We did the same thing, but used 2 more of the Vans vents. Same location as you did and got similar results. Sent from my iPhone On Jul 14, 2009, at 11:35 AM, "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com> wrote: > I think I have my high oil temps problem under control finally. I > previously > had added a high capacity oil cooler on the right side but still was > seeing > temps climbing too high now that summer is upon us. I added 2 > non-retractable cowl flaps on the bottom. The rectangular opening in > the > cowl is 4 x 9 inches. The opening at the rear is 2 x 4 inches. They > are > non-retractable because the mufflers would interfere. This seems to > be a > final fix. I'll try it tomorrow with daytime temps at 111. Good > thing KNYL > is at 216'. > Albert Gardner > Yuma, AZ > N991RV > > <FILE0346 (Small).JPG> > <FILE0347 (Small).JPG>


    Message 11


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    Time: 04:44:06 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: High Oil temps
    From: James McGrew <jsmcgrew@alum.mit.edu>
    I did some flying this weekend. I flew from Fort Worth (very hot) to Meadow Lake (near Colorado Springs, very high) and back. I have a IO-540D4A5 with the standard Van's installation (plus some added louvers just forward of the stock louvers). I have had high temperature problems with the cylinder heads and the oil in the past while flying this same route. As a technique on this trip I climbed at 2500 RPM with full rich mixture. My average rate of climb to 10500'/11500' was about 1000 fpm. The average fuel burn rate was 20 gph. I climbed at around 105 KIAS. That is a high fuel flow, however, I only burned about 3 gallons getting to altitude. The good news is, my CHTs stayed below 400 and the oil stayed around 200 for the climb. This will be my climb technique until I have a chance to look at additional cowl modifications. -Jim N312JE On Tue, Jul 14, 2009 at 5:56 PM, Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>wrote: > > > > We did the same thing, but used 2 more of the Vans vents. Same location as > you did and got similar results. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Jul 14, 2009, at 11:35 AM, "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com> > wrote: > > I think I have my high oil temps problem under control finally. I >> previously >> had added a high capacity oil cooler on the right side but still was >> seeing >> temps climbing too high now that summer is upon us. I added 2 >> non-retractable cowl flaps on the bottom. The rectangular opening in the >> cowl is 4 x 9 inches. The opening at the rear is 2 x 4 inches. They are >> non-retractable because the mufflers would interfere. This seems to be a >> final fix. I'll try it tomorrow with daytime temps at 111. Good thing KNYL >> is at 216'. >> Albert Gardner >> Yuma, AZ >> N991RV >> >> <FILE0346 (Small).JPG> >> <FILE0347 (Small).JPG> >> > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 05:02:18 PM PST US
    From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
    Subject: Re: bottom skin lap joint
    I did not . Figured only a few very anal RV 10 builders would ever notice. Is that joint completed on the "quick build option" ? Dr Fred (Hope nobody catches me looking under the wings on the flight line........) Strasnuts wrote: > > Did anyone else sand down the bottom skin lap joints similar to the wing skins? > > -------- > Cust. #40936 > A&amp;P, ATP > typed CE-525(s), CE-500 > RV-10 SB Fuselage > N801VR reserved > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=253026#253026 > > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 06:00:12 PM PST US
    Subject: Door latch mod
    From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
    I'm looking for two posts from around April of this year. One is about the Staniforth Latch on the doors, and the other was an alternative that involved welding a "t" onto the handle that went below the rail when closed. Have these worked out? And, would you recommend it/them? John -------- #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=253053#253053


    Message 14


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    Time: 06:05:02 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: bottom skin lap joint and phase one complete!!!
    From: ricksked@embarqmail.com
    I did....and I filled/blended the top skin...call me anal...5.and a half years building and. about 3000+ hours of a standard build, painted it myself with help of a friend and phase one hours are complete but we still need to explore gross weight testing. .Look for pics of N246RS In a week...gotta buff out the paint next week... See ya'll at OSH. .Coming in early Saturday before the fork tailed doctor killers (V tailed Bonanza's) and spam cans....Oh!!! and keep pounding those rivets...you are gonna LOVE this aircraft!!!! Yuck yuck.....it flys!!! Sorry for the clandestine approach....the local Guvment hates us here... James McClow where are you!!!!!! So I guess I missed out on those first flight kudos huh? Rick Sked N246RS ------Original Message------ From: Fred Williams, M.D. Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com ReplyTo: Rv Sent: Jul 14, 2009 4:57 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: bottom skin lap joint I did not . Figured only a few very anal RV 10 builders would ever notice. Is that joint completed on the "quick build option" ? Dr Fred (Hope nobody catches me looking under the wings on the flight line........) Strasnuts wrote: > > Did anyone else sand down the bottom skin lap joints similar to the wing skins? > > -------- > Cust. #40936 > A&amp;P, ATP > typed CE-525(s), CE-500 > RV-10 SB Fuselage > N801VR reserved > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=253026#253026 > > > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T


    Message 15


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    Time: 07:39:40 PM PST US
    From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Door latch mod
    What is a Staniforth latch? Linn do not archive johngoodman wrote: > > I'm looking for two posts from around April of this year. One is about the Staniforth Latch on the doors, and the other was an alternative that involved welding a "t" onto the handle that went below the rail when closed. > Have these worked out? And, would you recommend it/them? > John > > -------- > #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started. > N711JG reserved > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=253053#253053 > > >


    Message 16


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    Time: 07:56:27 PM PST US
    From: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter@integra.net>
    Subject: Tube Bender
    What size tube bender do you guys recommend. I am about to bend the brake lines and that looks to be 1/4. How about further down the line for bending other lines. Rob Hunter 40432 Fuselage


    Message 17


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    Time: 08:37:33 PM PST US
    From: "richard sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: High Oil temps
    The recent hot weather has certainly provided a good test environment for our cooling issues. I am running Van's oil cooler and the stock cowling outlets and a stock D4A5 with a single Lightspeed. I usually climb at 2600/full rich and 115 KIAS. Prior to this trip, in hot weather, I was seeing an occasional 400-410 on cyls 1 & 6. 1st. mod was to open the gap on the wrap around exit cylinder head baffles of 1 and 6 by about .500 inches. and I removed the right side front cylinder air dam. This past week I departed Salt Lake City and climbed direct to 13,000 in ISA +35 conditions. Cyls 1 & 6 were running in the 390's. I have not had much of a problem with the oil temp. Under these conditions if I remember correctly it went to 190 ish in the climb and then back down to 180 in cruise. I am still wrestling with fuel injector balance as the engine runs more rough than I would like at more than 20-30 LOP. At this high altitude and high temp I ended up running about 50 ROP to get the cyls all below 380. Just another data point I guess. Dick Sipp N110DV 160 hours ----- Original Message ----- From: James McGrew To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 7:31 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: High Oil temps I did some flying this weekend. I flew from Fort Worth (very hot) to Meadow Lake (near Colorado Springs, very high) and back. I have a IO-540D4A5 with the standard Van's installation (plus some added louvers just forward of the stock louvers). I have had high temperature problems with the cylinder heads and the oil in the past while flying this same route. As a technique on this trip I climbed at 2500 RPM with full rich mixture. My average rate of climb to 10500'/11500' was about 1000 fpm. The average fuel burn rate was 20 gph. I climbed at around 105 KIAS. That is a high fuel flow, however, I only burned about 3 gallons getting to altitude. The good news is, my CHTs stayed below 400 and the oil stayed around 200 for the climb. This will be my climb technique until I have a chance to look at additional cowl modifications. -Jim N312JE On Tue, Jul 14, 2009 at 5:56 PM, Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> wrote: <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> We did the same thing, but used 2 more of the Vans vents. Same location as you did and got similar results. Sent from my iPhone On Jul 14, 2009, at 11:35 AM, "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com> wrote: I think I have my high oil temps problem under control finally. I previously had added a high capacity oil cooler on the right side but still was seeing temps climbing too high now that summer is upon us. I added 2 non-retractable cowl flaps on the bottom. The rectangular opening in the cowl is 4 x 9 inches. The opening at the rear is 2 x 4 inches. They are non-retractable because the mufflers would interfere. This seems to be a final fix. I'll try it tomorrow with daytime temps at 111. Good thing KNYL is at 216'. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ N991RV <FILE0346 (Small).JPG> <FILE0347 (Small).JPG> scription, www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com Matt Dralle, List Admin. ====




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