Today's Message Index:
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1. 07:18 AM - cowl on front baffle photos (jayb)
2. 07:24 AM - Re: More fun with rebuilt engines (jayb)
3. 12:25 PM - tires (David McNeill)
4. 04:18 PM - Door seal info (Deems Davis)
Message 1
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| Subject: | cowl on front baffle photos |
Does anyone have cowl-on photos that show the air inlets... with the rubber air
seal fabric material covering the sides and upper air inlet ramps? I've seen
plenty of photos where the cowl is off, but hardly any closeups with the top/bottom
cowl halves in place.
Thanks in advance,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=256493#256493
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: More fun with rebuilt engines |
I had an A&P make a house call to replace two helicoils in my IO540. It took about
1.5 hours to complete both including sucking / flushing out thread debris.
Some rather interesting (clever) tools were required for the install that I'd not
seen before. Good learning experience.
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=256501#256501
Message 3
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Anyone running 600-6 mains or the standard 15/600-6? I bought 600-6s prior
to looking at the tires to be removed. Did not notice any handling
difference.
Message 4
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It was great seeing everyone @ OSH this year, and a special thanks to
Gary,Bob and all who set up RV10 HQ and organized the dinners. Judy and
I returned yesterday after continuing on to Long Island NY from OSH.
Several people inquired about the door seals on N519PJ. 1st I should
acknowledge Sheril Hilton and Robin Marks for their innovation on this
idea, and Ed Hayden for kicking me in the pants to 'quit thinking about
it and just Do It!' I'm very happy with the results.
The door seal material is available from McMaster Carr
McMaster Carr p/n 1120A311
http://www.mcmaster.com/#1120a311/=3390lx
I bought a 100ft roll and sold 30 ft to another -10 builder. I've got
enough left over to do 2 more doors. I cut up an initial 12 ft section
into pieces of various size/lengths to use during the trial and error
process of removing the cabin cover 'curved edge' fiberglass to provide
the right clearance between the cabin cover and the closed door. Like Ed
H. I found that it was necessary to glue the seal on, and after
experimenting with several 'contact like cements' I ended up using Pro
Seal, which works great. If you scan down this page
http://deemsrv10.com/Homelogindex.html you will find several entries
which describe the process I used to close out the door hinges to
complete the seal. I helped another -10 builder here in AZ to do the same.
Deems Davis N519PJ
http://deemsrv10.com/
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