Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:22 AM - Re: Sturm und Drang (Don McDonald)
2. 08:14 AM - Re: Door seal info (fdombroski)
3. 10:17 AM - Re: Re: Door seal info (Deems Davis)
4. 11:18 AM - Re: Seatbelt countersink (Lew Gallagher)
5. 12:24 PM - Re: Re: Door seal info (Geoff Combs)
6. 12:42 PM - Re: Re: Door seal info (Robin Marks)
7. 01:18 PM - Re: RV10 Interior (aerosport1)
8. 01:22 PM - Re: Re: Door seal info (Pascal)
9. 01:28 PM - Re: Crushed oil filter (aviationpro)
10. 01:39 PM - Re: RV10 Interior (aerosport1)
11. 02:55 PM - Re: Re: Door seal info (Fred Williams, M.D.)
12. 03:41 PM - Re: Re: RV10 Interior (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
13. 03:41 PM - Re: Re: Door seal info (Les Kearney)
14. 03:51 PM - Re: Re: Door seal info (Linn Walters)
15. 03:51 PM - Re: Re: RV10 Interior (Kelly McMullen)
16. 04:13 PM - Re: Re: RV10 Interior (John Cox)
17. 05:00 PM - Re: Re: Door seal info (Les Kearney)
18. 05:52 PM - Re: Re: Door seal info (effectus@rogers.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Sturm und Drang |
Way to go Tim.... seems like only yesterday for me also..... but Tim,,,, it
's YEE HAH!
--- On Wed, 8/12/09, Dawson-Townsend,Timothy <tdawson-townsend@aurora.aero>
wrote:
From: Dawson-Townsend,Timothy <tdawson-townsend@aurora.aero>
Subject: RV10-List: Sturm und Drang
The N52KS Lycoming has breathed fire and made that thing on the front of
the airplane spin around for the first time!- Yeah hah!
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025
=0A=0A=0A
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Door seal info |
Hi Deems, do you think the smaller diameter material (1/8" tube) would require
less install grinding, but still seal the door?
Thanks,
Frank
--------
Frank Dombroski
RV-10 N46WD Flying
RV-8 N84FD final assembly
N40 Sky Manor Airport
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257480#257480
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Door seal info |
I think it would we worth a try. I don't see anything that would prevent
it. You would have to be more accurate and careful as you removed
material, but I think it should worl as long as that channel is the same
size as the intial. You could always order a 13 ft piece and try it.
Deems Davis
fdombroski wrote:
>
> Hi Deems, do you think the smaller diameter material (1/8" tube) would require
less install grinding, but still seal the door?
>
> Thanks,
> Frank
>
> --------
> Frank Dombroski
> RV-10 N46WD Flying
> RV-8 N84FD final assembly
> N40 Sky Manor Airport
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257480#257480
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Seatbelt countersink |
Hey Eric,
The sealtbelt countersink arrived here today from Mike in MN !!
Let me know if you still need it and I'll get it off to you tomorrow.
If there are others interested, now would be the time to start a new list.
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 7:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Seatbelt countersink
>
> Anyone have a list for the seatbelt countersink? I am just about to the
> point where I will need to buy it if I can't get my hands on one. Thanks.
>
> Eric Kallio
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=256434#256434
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Door seal info |
Frank I do not think 1/8" would be wise if you need to grind down the flange
more to accommodate for the smaller attach thickness 1/8". That flange
Gives good strength to the fiber glass top. I actually made my flanges for a
1/4" instead of the 3/16".
Just my thoughts.
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 1:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info
I think it would we worth a try. I don't see anything that would prevent
it. You would have to be more accurate and careful as you removed
material, but I think it should worl as long as that channel is the same
size as the intial. You could always order a 13 ft piece and try it.
Deems Davis
fdombroski wrote:
>
> Hi Deems, do you think the smaller diameter material (1/8" tube) would
> require less install grinding, but still seal the door?
>
> Thanks,
> Frank
>
> --------
> Frank Dombroski
> RV-10 N46WD Flying
> RV-8 N84FD final assembly
> N40 Sky Manor Airport
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257480#257480
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Door seal info |
Everyone can make their own choices as to what materials & dimensions
however I can tell you I am totally satisfied with our door seal set up
(exactly like Deems) and would not change our configuration.
Robin
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info
I think it would we worth a try. I don't see anything that would prevent
it. You would have to be more accurate and careful as you removed
material, but I think it should worl as long as that channel is the same
size as the intial. You could always order a 13 ft piece and try it.
Deems Davis
fdombroski wrote:
>
> Hi Deems, do you think the smaller diameter material (1/8" tube) would
require less install grinding, but still seal the door?
>
> Thanks,
> Frank
>
> --------
> Frank Dombroski
> RV-10 N46WD Flying
> RV-8 N84FD final assembly
> N40 Sky Manor Airport
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257480#257480
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Interior |
Here are some pictures of what will be available with in the next 30 days.
I am working on interior panels for the RV-10. They will be able to be covered
or painted to color match. There will be front side wall panels as
well. The vents you see will have a slider in the slot in the middle to open and
close side vents if you are keeping them.
They will be available through Aerosport Products. We have many other items like
are carbon fiber instrument panels and arm rest center console.
Geoff
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Finishing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257534#257534
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2286_170.jpg
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Door seal info |
I had a heck of a time getting the doors to be flush with the stock Van's
seals, how in the world did you get a flush fit with a larger seal? the idea
is to get a good seal without needing to do major work to have the doors
flush, the idea of 1/8 seal takes nothing away from the flange or anything
else, unless it is not large enough, in my case it would have been fine
since the doors were 3/16 out with the seals, 1/8th would have worked great
for me in retrospect, but it works just fine now with the stock seals.
So fit the doors perfectly with the flanges than fit the seals, assure there
is no gaps whatever size is used and call it success, 3/16 IS too much
however without needing work.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 12:22 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info
> <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
>
> Frank I do not think 1/8" would be wise if you need to grind down the
> flange
> more to accommodate for the smaller attach thickness 1/8". That flange
> Gives good strength to the fiber glass top. I actually made my flanges for
> a
> 1/4" instead of the 3/16".
>
>
> Just my thoughts.
>
> Geoff Combs
> President
> Aerosport Modeling & Design
> 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
> Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
> 614-834-5227p
> 614-834-5230f
> www.aerosportmodeling.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 1:10 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info
>
>
>
> I think it would we worth a try. I don't see anything that would prevent
> it. You would have to be more accurate and careful as you removed
> material, but I think it should worl as long as that channel is the same
> size as the intial. You could always order a 13 ft piece and try it.
>
> Deems Davis
>
> fdombroski wrote:
>>
>> Hi Deems, do you think the smaller diameter material (1/8" tube) would
>> require less install grinding, but still seal the door?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Frank
>>
>> --------
>> Frank Dombroski
>> RV-10 N46WD Flying
>> RV-8 N84FD final assembly
>> N40 Sky Manor Airport
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257480#257480
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Crushed oil filter |
After reading your post and reviewing your pics it reminded me of other complaints
I have seen regarding oil filters. Just a note - oil filters do not burst
or collapse on their own - the chances of that happening are slim to none. There
is another issue causing that condition. Here is a link to a gentleman posting
on the AOPA forum in which he blames the oil filter for a problem and then
goes on to claim how the company was selling defective parts, putting pilots
and their passengers in jeopardy and demanding an FAA investigation much like
this posting.
http://forums.aopa.org/showthread.php?t=49420
His mechanic, the overhauler of his engine and all the forum experts told him
it was the faulty filter and there was not a problem with his engine. The oil
filter manufacturer pleaded with him to look at his lines and evaluate his engine
to find the root cause because they knew the filter was not the culprit.
Here is his retraction on his false statements about the filter after he found
a problem in one of his lines:
http://forums.aopa.org/showthread.php?t=50026
As for the article regarding oil filters - I have used Kelly filters for 4 years
without any issues at all. The fact that Kelly produces a filter that exceeds
the same specs with a thinner wall and less media tells me it is superiorly
engineered to the other manufacturers.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257538#257538
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Interior |
Here are some smaller pictures on the side panels. We still have some tweaks to
make to them. They will cover the rivet line and can be installed
very easily.
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Finishing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257539#257539
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/lf_side_panel_840.jpg
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Door seal info |
Pascal;
I had to redo the fiberglass and drop the sill down enough to get the
seal to fit. You add more layers to the underside and then grind down
the top. I got the pleasure of seeing Deem's work at Osh last week. I
really think that the process that he describes on his website and what
he has done to the hinge area are as good as we can do with this
design. I had a fair door fit before I put the seals on, but then could
not close the door as the seal pushed up and took up too much room.
Pulling the lip down enough to get it to seal fixed the problem. I
don't have the gaps filled around the hinges and do not seem to have any
significant water or wind thru the gap. I wish I had started out with
the seals from Mc Master Carr and had them at the time of initial door
fitting. It would have been a whole lot easier to do before I had the
wings on and had to keep all the dust out of the avionics.
Dr Fred
Pascal wrote:
>
> I had a heck of a time getting the doors to be flush with the stock
> Van's seals, how in the world did you get a flush fit with a larger
> seal? the idea is to get a good seal without needing to do major work
> to have the doors flush, the idea of 1/8 seal takes nothing away from
> the flange or anything else, unless it is not large enough, in my case
> it would have been fine since the doors were 3/16 out with the seals,
> 1/8th would have worked great for me in retrospect, but it works just
> fine now with the stock seals.
> So fit the doors perfectly with the flanges than fit the seals, assure
> there is no gaps whatever size is used and call it success, 3/16 IS
> too much however without needing work.
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
> Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 12:22 PM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info
>
>> <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
>>
>> Frank I do not think 1/8" would be wise if you need to grind down the
>> flange
>> more to accommodate for the smaller attach thickness 1/8". That flange
>> Gives good strength to the fiber glass top. I actually made my
>> flanges for a
>> 1/4" instead of the 3/16".
>>
>>
>> Just my thoughts.
>>
>> Geoff Combs
>> President
>> Aerosport Modeling & Design
>> 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
>> Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
>> 614-834-5227p
>> 614-834-5230f
>> www.aerosportmodeling.com
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
>> Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 1:10 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info
>>
>>
>>
>> I think it would we worth a try. I don't see anything that would prevent
>> it. You would have to be more accurate and careful as you removed
>> material, but I think it should worl as long as that channel is the same
>> size as the intial. You could always order a 13 ft piece and try it.
>>
>> Deems Davis
>>
>> fdombroski wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Deems, do you think the smaller diameter material (1/8" tube) would
>>> require less install grinding, but still seal the door?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Frank
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Frank Dombroski
>>> RV-10 N46WD Flying
>>> RV-8 N84FD final assembly
>>> N40 Sky Manor Airport
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257480#257480
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Interior |
Many of us got to see the panels, etc. At OSH. These are a major step forward
for those who have the goal of a car like interior.
------Original Message------
From: Geoff Combs
ReplyTo: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 Interior
Sent: Aug 13, 2009 3:17 PM
Here are some pictures of what will be available with in the next 30 days.
I am working on interior panels for the RV-10. They will be able to be covered
or painted to color match. There will be front side wall panels as
well. The vents you see will have a slider in the slot in the middle to open and
close side vents if you are keeping them.
They will be available through Aerosport Products. We have many other items like
are carbon fiber instrument panels and arm rest center console.
Geoff
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Finishing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257534#257534
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2286_170.jpg
Bob
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Door seal info |
Hi Pascal
The McMaster Carr seals require that you grind down the canopy door flanges
until they are parallel to the door. The seal fit on this flange with the
bulb against the door.
This gives a great seal. I don't see how you can get a good result by
fitting the doors first and then fitting the seals. Any kind of seal will
impact the door geometry.
As I understand it, the preferred course of action is to fit the doors with
seals in place and then use epoxy etc to give a flush fit all the way
around, feathering out to give a smooth transition between the door and the
canopy. Doing this before the seals are installed just means more rework.
Today I spent several hours getting my second door to fit (the first worked
out very nicely right off the bat). Ultimately I had to shim the two delrin
door blocks so as to provide a bit more space between the door and the
seals. Now the doors close easily although I will need a pull strap in the
center of the door to pull the door into the opening. A couple of pounds of
pull in the center of the door is all that I need.
I don't like the idea of using the door handle to pull the door closed as it
doesn't seem like it was designed to take that kind of twisting pull. That's
just my $0.02 though.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - fitting doors & seals
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: August-13-09 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info
I had a heck of a time getting the doors to be flush with the stock Van's
seals, how in the world did you get a flush fit with a larger seal? the idea
is to get a good seal without needing to do major work to have the doors
flush, the idea of 1/8 seal takes nothing away from the flange or anything
else, unless it is not large enough, in my case it would have been fine
since the doors were 3/16 out with the seals, 1/8th would have worked great
for me in retrospect, but it works just fine now with the stock seals.
So fit the doors perfectly with the flanges than fit the seals, assure there
is no gaps whatever size is used and call it success, 3/16 IS too much
however without needing work.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 12:22 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info
> <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
>
> Frank I do not think 1/8" would be wise if you need to grind down the
> flange
> more to accommodate for the smaller attach thickness 1/8". That flange
> Gives good strength to the fiber glass top. I actually made my flanges for
> a
> 1/4" instead of the 3/16".
>
>
> Just my thoughts.
>
> Geoff Combs
> President
> Aerosport Modeling & Design
> 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
> Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
> 614-834-5227p
> 614-834-5230f
> www.aerosportmodeling.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 1:10 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info
>
>
>
> I think it would we worth a try. I don't see anything that would prevent
> it. You would have to be more accurate and careful as you removed
> material, but I think it should worl as long as that channel is the same
> size as the intial. You could always order a 13 ft piece and try it.
>
> Deems Davis
>
> fdombroski wrote:
>>
>> Hi Deems, do you think the smaller diameter material (1/8" tube) would
>> require less install grinding, but still seal the door?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Frank
>>
>> --------
>> Frank Dombroski
>> RV-10 N46WD Flying
>> RV-8 N84FD final assembly
>> N40 Sky Manor Airport
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257480#257480
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Door seal info |
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi Pascal
>
> The McMaster Carr seals require that you grind down the canopy door flanges
> until they are parallel to the door. The seal fit on this flange with the
> bulb against the door.
>
Which begs the question: Why not attach the door seal to the door
instead of the cabin top??
Linn
do not archive
> This gives a great seal. I don't see how you can get a good result by
> fitting the doors first and then fitting the seals. Any kind of seal will
> impact the door geometry.
>
> As I understand it, the preferred course of action is to fit the doors with
> seals in place and then use epoxy etc to give a flush fit all the way
> around, feathering out to give a smooth transition between the door and the
> canopy. Doing this before the seals are installed just means more rework.
>
> Today I spent several hours getting my second door to fit (the first worked
> out very nicely right off the bat). Ultimately I had to shim the two delrin
> door blocks so as to provide a bit more space between the door and the
> seals. Now the doors close easily although I will need a pull strap in the
> center of the door to pull the door into the opening. A couple of pounds of
> pull in the center of the door is all that I need.
>
> I don't like the idea of using the door handle to pull the door closed as it
> doesn't seem like it was designed to take that kind of twisting pull. That's
> just my $0.02 though.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643 - fitting doors & seals
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Interior |
Agreed. Geoff had a full set of samples on hand, and they seem to be of
significantly higher quality than the stuff production aircraft used in
the '60s and '70s. Nice finish, solid feel, well designed. If I ever get
my QB kit from Vans, that is the way I plan on going.
Kelly
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
> Many of us got to see the panels, etc. At OSH. These are a major step forward
for those who have the goal of a car like interior.
>
>
> ------Original Message------
> From: Geoff Combs
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> ReplyTo: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 Interior
> Sent: Aug 13, 2009 3:17 PM
>
>
> Here are some pictures of what will be available with in the next 30 days.
> I am working on interior panels for the RV-10. They will be able to be covered
or painted to color match. There will be front side wall panels as
> well. The vents you see will have a slider in the slot in the middle to open
and close side vents if you are keeping them.
> They will be available through Aerosport Products. We have many other items like
are carbon fiber instrument panels and arm rest center console.
>
> Geoff
>
> --------
> Geoff Combs
> RV-10 QB N829GW
> Finishing
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257534#257534
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2286_170.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Interior |
Major step! Beyond anything any RV-10 builder has done to date.
It was fun to watch from the sideline as guys scampered over and Geoff teased everyone
with Xmas in July - "Wisconsin style" as he removed multiple items from
the multiple storage compartments in his land yacht, at Camp Condrey.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10 Interior
Many of us got to see the panels, etc. At OSH. These are a major step forward
for those who have the goal of a car like interior.
------Original Message------
From: Geoff Combs
ReplyTo: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 Interior
Sent: Aug 13, 2009 3:17 PM
Here are some pictures of what will be available with in the next 30 days.
I am working on interior panels for the RV-10. They will be able to be covered
or painted to color match. There will be front side wall panels as
well. The vents you see will have a slider in the slot in the middle to open and
close side vents if you are keeping them.
They will be available through Aerosport Products. We have many other items like
are carbon fiber instrument panels and arm rest center console.
Geoff
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Finishing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257534#257534
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2286_170.jpg
Bob
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Door seal info |
Linn
Here is a link to the door seals.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#door-seals/=36cwot
It would be tough to make this work on a door given that it is designed to
be edge mounted. Besides, this trims off the door opening very nicely -
aesthetics count!
Cheers
Les
#40643 - living in a fibreglass world
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: August-13-09 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi Pascal
>
> The McMaster Carr seals require that you grind down the canopy door
flanges
> until they are parallel to the door. The seal fit on this flange with the
> bulb against the door.
>
Which begs the question: Why not attach the door seal to the door
instead of the cabin top??
Linn
do not archive
> This gives a great seal. I don't see how you can get a good result by
> fitting the doors first and then fitting the seals. Any kind of seal will
> impact the door geometry.
>
> As I understand it, the preferred course of action is to fit the doors
with
> seals in place and then use epoxy etc to give a flush fit all the way
> around, feathering out to give a smooth transition between the door and
the
> canopy. Doing this before the seals are installed just means more rework.
>
> Today I spent several hours getting my second door to fit (the first
worked
> out very nicely right off the bat). Ultimately I had to shim the two
delrin
> door blocks so as to provide a bit more space between the door and the
> seals. Now the doors close easily although I will need a pull strap in the
> center of the door to pull the door into the opening. A couple of pounds
of
> pull in the center of the door is all that I need.
>
> I don't like the idea of using the door handle to pull the door closed as
it
> doesn't seem like it was designed to take that kind of twisting pull.
That's
> just my $0.02 though.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643 - fitting doors & seals
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Door seal info |
I agree with Les, Robin and Deems. The door seal on the canopy flange is THE way
to go!
It is a bunch more work but I think it gives the aircraft a much more finished
look where impressions count the most. I also saw Deem's plane at OSH and the
door opening was finished way better than the others I saw.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney@shaw.ca>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info
Linn
Here is a link to the door seals.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#door-seals/=36cwot
It would be tough to make this work on a door given that it is designed to
be edge mounted. Besides, this trims off the door opening very nicely -
aesthetics count!
Cheers
Les
#40643 - living in a fibreglass world
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: August-13-09 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door seal info
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi Pascal
>
> The McMaster Carr seals require that you grind down the canopy door
flanges
> until they are parallel to the door. The seal fit on this flange with the
> bulb against the door.
>
Which begs the question: Why not attach the door seal to the door
instead of the cabin top??
Linn
do not archive
> This gives a great seal. I don't see how you can get a good result by
> fitting the doors first and then fitting the seals. Any kind of seal will
> impact the door geometry.
>
> As I understand it, the preferred course of action is to fit the doors
with
> seals in place and then use epoxy etc to give a flush fit all the way
> around, feathering out to give a smooth transition between the door and
the
> canopy. Doing this before the seals are installed just means more rework.
>
> Today I spent several hours getting my second door to fit (the first
worked
> out very nicely right off the bat). Ultimately I had to shim the two
delrin
> door blocks so as to provide a bit more space between the door and the
> seals. Now the doors close easily although I will need a pull strap in the
> center of the door to pull the door into the opening. A couple of pounds
of
> pull in the center of the door is all that I need.
>
> I don't like the idea of using the door handle to pull the door closed as
it
> doesn't seem like it was designed to take that kind of twisting pull.
That's
> just my $0.02 though.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643 - fitting doors & seals
>
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