Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:43 AM - Re: Page 15-4 Wing Rear Spar (John Trollinger)
2. 06:42 AM - rudder stops (Sandra & Rick Lark)
3. 07:43 AM - Re: rudder stops (Jesse Saint)
4. 07:53 AM - Re: rudder stops (John Cox)
5. 10:04 AM - Re: rudder stops (Tim Olson)
6. 10:44 AM - another data point (David McNeill)
7. 10:51 AM - Re: rudder stops (Jesse Saint)
8. 01:36 PM - Tales from the dark OOPS I mean door side.... (Les Kearney)
9. 03:39 PM - Rudder Trim Pushrod Help (BGS)
10. 05:35 PM - Gaps between Weld-On 10 and Window (Jeff Carpenter)
11. 05:37 PM - Re: another data point (Bill DeRouchey)
12. 06:14 PM - Re: another data point (David McNeill)
13. 09:12 PM - Re: Rudder Trim Pushrod Help (woxofswa)
14. 09:55 PM - Re: Tales from the dark OOPS I mean door side.... (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Page 15-4 Wing Rear Spar |
Thanks all.. its nice to not always have to wait for vans to be open to get
your answer.
back to the shop to drill some holes.
Do Not Archive
John
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Hi all.
I'm just about to fasten the rudder stops(R-1007B's) to the lower rudder
hinge bracket(VS-1010) and have decided to use bolts as opposed to the
AN470AD4-6 rivets as Scott Schmidt and others have reported can work loose
in high winds.
In looking in the ACS catalogue I see structural machine screws (NAS600-603,
page 93) which have a far greater tensile strength than the rivets.
Unfortunately there is no rating for shear strength which I would think is
more important. What type of screws have those who have replaced the rivets
used??
Has anyone approached Vans w/regards to this substitute, as the prototype
has them??
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont.
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: rudder stops |
I have used standard #6 screws and nuts as used elsewhere in the kit.
The steel screw with a bigger diameter should have a LOT higher sheer
strength than the rivet, although I don't know in actual values. When
I looked at Van's plane it appeared that this is what they were using.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Aug 29, 2009, at 9:26 AM, Sandra & Rick Lark wrote:
> <jrlark@bmts.com>
>
> Hi all.
>
> I'm just about to fasten the rudder stops(R-1007B's) to the lower
> rudder hinge bracket(VS-1010) and have decided to use bolts as
> opposed to the
> AN470AD4-6 rivets as Scott Schmidt and others have reported can work
> loose in high winds.
>
> In looking in the ACS catalogue I see structural machine screws
> (NAS600-603, page 93) which have a far greater tensile strength than
> the rivets. Unfortunately there is no rating for shear strength
> which I would think is more important. What type of screws have
> those who have replaced the rivets used??
>
> Has anyone approached Vans w/regards to this substitute, as the
> prototype has them??
>
> Thx, Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont.
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Consider Hi-Loks (HL18s) or Hi-Lites from Hi-Shear Corporation.
John Cox
#40600
From: Sandra & Rick Lark
Sent: Sat 8/29/2009 6:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: rudder stops
Hi all.
I'm just about to fasten the rudder stops(R-1007B's) to the lower rudder
hinge bracket(VS-1010) and have decided to use bolts as opposed to the
AN470AD4-6 rivets as Scott Schmidt and others have reported can work loose
in high winds.
In looking in the ACS catalogue I see structural machine screws (NAS600-603
,
page 93) which have a far greater tensile strength than the rivets.
Unfortunately there is no rating for shear strength which I would think is
more important. What type of screws have those who have replaced the rivet
s
used??
Has anyone approached Vans w/regards to this substitute, as the prototype
has them??
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont.
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: rudder stops |
I don't think you have to get too worried about the shear spec
of the screws you use. You just need to get something
that is more resistant than the aluminum rivets. So any steel
screw will do. I'd try to put one that you can use the
smooth upper part of the screw through the material, where
the grip just starts as you get outside the rudder blocks.
Put a washer or two on it to guarantee you get it tight
and don't bottom on the shoulder.
The fact is, if you beat the thing up so bad that a steel
screw is going to shear, the rudder stop material itself
is probably going to break anyway, and you'll break an
ear off. So the screw themselves really aren't a big
worry.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Sandra & Rick Lark wrote:
>
> Hi all.
>
> I'm just about to fasten the rudder stops(R-1007B's) to the lower rudder
> hinge bracket(VS-1010) and have decided to use bolts as opposed to the
> AN470AD4-6 rivets as Scott Schmidt and others have reported can work
> loose in high winds.
>
> In looking in the ACS catalogue I see structural machine screws
> (NAS600-603, page 93) which have a far greater tensile strength than the
> rivets. Unfortunately there is no rating for shear strength which I
> would think is more important. What type of screws have those who have
> replaced the rivets used??
>
> Has anyone approached Vans w/regards to this substitute, as the
> prototype has them??
>
> Thx, Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont.
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | another data point |
At 40G at 6000 MSL and 80 F and 2400 pounds. We landed Runway 19 and easily
turned off at the 1700 ft insectiing runway/taxiway mark. On departure the
ground run was about 1000 ft.
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: rudder stops |
Also, if the threaded part goes through the other bracket, even with
nut between the brackets, you are working, at least partially, in
double sheer.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse@saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 29, 2009, at 12:59 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> I don't think you have to get too worried about the shear spec
> of the screws you use. You just need to get something
> that is more resistant than the aluminum rivets. So any steel
> screw will do. I'd try to put one that you can use the
> smooth upper part of the screw through the material, where
> the grip just starts as you get outside the rudder blocks.
> Put a washer or two on it to guarantee you get it tight
> and don't bottom on the shoulder.
>
> The fact is, if you beat the thing up so bad that a steel
> screw is going to shear, the rudder stop material itself
> is probably going to break anyway, and you'll break an
> ear off. So the screw themselves really aren't a big
> worry.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> Sandra & Rick Lark wrote:
>> >
>> Hi all.
>> I'm just about to fasten the rudder stops(R-1007B's) to the lower
>> rudder hinge bracket(VS-1010) and have decided to use bolts as
>> opposed to the
>> AN470AD4-6 rivets as Scott Schmidt and others have reported can
>> work loose in high winds.
>> In looking in the ACS catalogue I see structural machine screws
>> (NAS600-603, page 93) which have a far greater tensile strength
>> than the rivets. Unfortunately there is no rating for shear
>> strength which I would think is more important. What type of
>> screws have those who have replaced the rivets used??
>> Has anyone approached Vans w/regards to this substitute, as the
>> prototype has them??
>> Thx, Rick
>> #40956
>> Southampton, Ont.
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Tales from the dark OOPS I mean door side.... |
Hi
Over the past few weeks I have been working on my canopy and doors.
I have experienced a wide range of emotions when dealing with the doors
'
mostly frustration! The doors seemed to be designed to test the will to
build and our ability to persevere.
As part of the process I have studied the usual websites to see what
others
have done and trolled the archives for any hints and tips that might be
useful. Here are some of the things that I did (or wish I had done the
first time through) to get to doors that actually work.
When reading this, note that I used the Rivethead door blocks and the
McMaster Carr door seals which mount on the canopy opening and not on
the
door. I also installed Steve DeNieri=92s flush handles and locks.
What I did
1. Trimmed the door halves oversize prior to bonding. The index
holes
didn=92t match so bonding alignment was a concern. So was having enough
material to allow clamping to the canopy while curing.
2. When bonding the door halves I followed the plans to a T. It
turns
out that most of the door edges get removed so it is important to have
lots
close in to the inside edge of the flanges. I ended up with several
areas of
delamination. I found that it was possible to inject epoxy into
delaminated
areas using a large bore hypo. The entire bottom edge of one door
delaminated which strangely enough made repair easier.
3. The rear index holes didn=92t match so door alignment relative
to the
door sill was a problem. It was possible that the inner door half could
sit
too low in the openings and not have reasonable clearance from the
sills.
Without correction, this might result in the doors sitting on the bottom
of
the door sill. To ensure consistent spacing between the door and the
door
sill, I taped stacks of popsicle sticks (3 in each) onto the bottom of
the
door sill. The inner door sat on these during the bonding process.
4. The popsicle stick spacers also remained in place when during
the
initial door trim especially on the door top. I didn=92t want to
inadvertently
trim the door to short buy taking too much off the top. The doors were
left
a little long until the hinges were installed.
5. The initial fit objective was to get the doors flush in the
opening
with only a tiny gap all the way round.
6. The Rivethead door blocks were installed on the canopy
fibreglass
door posts
7. After the hinges and door blocks were installed considerable
time
was spent getting the doors pins open / close easily. After door seals
were
installed, I got to do this all over again.
8. Using washers as shims between the hinge and the canopy can
change
the gap between the canopy door post and the door. I used washers on an
aft
door hinges to slightly raise the height of the aft side of the door
which
in turn increased the forward gap between the door post and the door.
9. During latching the doors move fore / aft depending on which
door
pin contacts the door first and which has more friction. This in turn
moves
the door in the frame and changes the fore / aft gaps between the door
and
he canopy. A shim in the door opening between the canopy and the door
prevents this shift during fitting. Uncorrected, this was going to be a
problem.
10. The door seals caused the bottom of the doors to be pushed out
which in
turn resulted in the considerable pressure being required (on the
outside of
the door) to close the door enough for the door pins to engage.
11. I found the once the door seals were more than =BD compressed, the
resistive force on the doors increased significantly. By removing more
material from the outside of the canopy opening, I was able to reduce
the
seal compression and get an easier to close door. This was especially
true
of the canopy door posts.
12. What made a *huge* difference in getting the doors to close easily
was
pushing the canopy door sill inboard by about 1/8=94 This moved the seal
that
contacts the bottom of the door inboard and took most of outward
pressure
off the bottom of the door.
13. I floxed the nylon guide blocks on the fire/aft edges of the doors
so
that they were flush with the inner door perimeter. Consequently they
interfered with the previously installed Rivethead door blocks. To
correct,
the canopy door posts were notched to allow the Rivethead blocks to
mount
directly on the aluminum door posts and thereby provide clearance for
the
door. I shimmed the Rivethead blocks so that there was minimal clearance
between the doors and the blocks. This ensures that the doors remain
correctly aligned within the door opening. See #9.
14. Once the door pins engaged the Rivethead door block, it still took
some
effort to fully engage the pins. There were several factors that added
to
the effort:
* There is a lot of internal friction the Van=92s ratchet
mechanism.
Application of white grease made operation *much* easier
* White grease on the door pins reduced the effort required to
latch
the doors.
* There is a slight bow on the door. The long door pin should
have a
slight curve to ensure it does not bind against the in side of the door
* The further the door pins go into the door blocks, the greater
the
closing effort required. I reduced mine so that the only extend about
=BC=94
through the aluminum door posts.
* The more pressure required to push the door in place so the
pins
can engage, the more effort required to close the door
* If the door perimeter contacts the canopy anywhere, the effort
required to close the door will increase.
What I would do differently
* When bonding the door halves, use considerable more epoxy &
flox
on the door perimeter especially close to the inner edge of the flanges
to
be bonded.
* Pay more attention to the curves on the door pins (especially
the
long ones). One of the pins was binding on the door interior thus
increasing
the effort required to latch the door.
* Grease the ratcheting mechanism before starting the door fit.
A
lot of the door stiffness comes from the door mechanisms. When trying to
adjust the fit, it would have beneficial to have the stiffness out of
the
equation as it was sometime difficult to know what was causing the fit
problems.
* Install the door seals prior to doing the initial door fit.
* Pay more attention to where the door seals are being
compressed
too much when closing the door PRIOR to trimming the inside of the
canopy
flange. (In some places, I had to build up the inside of the canopy
flange
as I had to take more off the outside of the flange. To reduce door
compression.
* Flox the fore and aft door pin guides when building the doors
* Install the Rivethead door blocks directly on the aluminum
door
posts rather than first fitting on the canopy.
* Shim the Rivethead door blocks to ensure door alignment when
fitting the doors
Then end result of this is I can now close and latch both doors with
only
one finger of pressure on the inside door handle with only one finger of
pressure on the outside of the bottom of the door.
Cheers
Les
#40643 ' Living in a f/g world
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Rudder Trim Pushrod Help |
I am modifying my rudder for rudder trim with a trim tab fit into the rudder.
Not that everything is in and mounted, I am having some clearance problems with
the push rod hitting the outer skin and flare.
As it sits now, the servo can travel a little over half an inch but the actual
travel is 7/8 for the T2-7A Servo.
When the push rod is pushed it ends up hitting the outer rudder skin, when it is
pulled it hits the flare.
I am attaching a couple of pictures to help better understand my rambling and horrible
description.
So my question is, can anybody give me some ideas on how get full travel of the
servo without the push rod hitting the skin or flare (hopefully with out boring
the hole out to much).
For more detailed pictures you can see them on my builders log at http://www.briansrv10.com/Rudder_Trim.php
Appreciate any help you can give.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=260401#260401
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rudder_trim_help_002_545.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rudder_trim_help_001_294.jpg
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Gaps between Weld-On 10 and Window |
I took the plunge yesterday and bonded the window in to the left side
door. I peeled the tape off today and found significant gaps between
the weld-on and the window... particularly along the curved vertical
edges. In hindsight, it was obviously too hot to be doing this work
yesterday... my shop is at the base of the mountains near JPL where
the fires have been raging for the past few days and, though it is air
conditioned, was probably about 85% inside. The weld-on just set up
too quickly.
I'm thinking of drilling a few small holes and injecting epoxy in to
fill the gaps. Has anyone gone down this road before? Is there a
better way to fix this, shy of replacing the whole thing?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Singin those Weld-on 10 blues...
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: another data point |
David-
Sorry I missed you. We had four RV's from Prescott at the Valle fly-in.
Bill
--- On Sat, 8/29/09, David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
From: David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: another data point
At 40G at 6000 MSL and 80 F and 2400 pounds. We landed Runway 19 and easily turned
off at the 1700 ft insectiing runway/taxiway mark. On departure the ground
run was about 1000 ft.
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | another data point |
we departed about 0900; arrived about 0640. We left FFZ about 0556 , running
LOP about 55% power and caught a friend's 172 in the pattern at 40G after he
departed FFZ at 0530. The APRS track worked until about 1500 AGL in the 40G
area. The last hit was at 7300 MSL
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill DeRouchey
Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2009 5:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: another data point
David-
Sorry I missed you. We had four RV's from Prescott at the Valle fly-in.
Bill
--- On Sat, 8/29/09, David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
From: David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: another data point
At 40G at 6000 MSL and 80 F and 2400 pounds. We landed Runway 19 and easily
turned off at the 1700 ft insectiing runway/taxiway mark. On departure the
ground run was about 1000 ft.
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim Pushrod Help |
>From an old modeler, if you move the clevis down closer to the airfoil you will
have more clearance and need less throw for the same deflection.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=260436#260436
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Tales from the dark OOPS I mean door side.... |
Yes the doors are tons of fun. I have about 80 hours in mine at this poi
nt and probably about another 15 to go but they are very nice. For me the
weather seal caused interference in the first third of the frame from the t
op. No problem on the bottom. The McMaster Carr weather stripping is nice
but it does add a considerable amount of work to the doors in order to get
it to fit well on the frame. I had to build up the inside of the frame a
fair amount with flox before I could take the lip down to an acceptable amo
unt and make the weather strip fit right. I also cut the little lip that i
s on the inside of the trim out. I also picked up some of the same trim wi
th =BC" instead of the 3/16" that everyone has been getting. It tends to f
it much better in the bulky areas of the cabin top but it does make for an
extra 1/16" to account for.
Which actually brings me to another thing. Before deciding to go with th
e door frame weather stripping method I picked up some of the door weather
stripping from Alex D. This is the stuff that conforms to the door better
than the stock stuff from Van. I don't need it now so if anyone is going w
ith the stock method and wants to use this instead, I'll save you a couple
bucks and sell you mine for $60 shipped. Just drop me an email. You can s
ee them here:
http://www.aviationtechproducts.com/html/products_pics.html#DoorSeal
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2009 1:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tales from the dark OOPS I mean door side....
Hi
Over the past few weeks I have been working on my canopy and doors.
I have experienced a wide range of emotions when dealing with the doors - m
ostly frustration! The doors seemed to be designed to test the will to buil
d and our ability to persevere.
As part of the process I have studied the usual websites to see what others
have done and trolled the archives for any hints and tips that might be us
eful. Here are some of the things that I did (or wish I had done the first
time through) to get to doors that actually work.
When reading this, note that I used the Rivethead door blocks and the McMas
ter Carr door seals which mount on the canopy opening and not on the door.
I also installed Steve DeNieri's flush handles and locks.
What I did
1. Trimmed the door halves oversize prior to bonding. The index holes
didn't match so bonding alignment was a concern. So was having enough mater
ial to allow clamping to the canopy while curing.
2. When bonding the door halves I followed the plans to a T. It turns
out that most of the door edges get removed so it is important to have lots
close in to the inside edge of the flanges. I ended up with several areas
of delamination. I found that it was possible to inject epoxy into delamina
ted areas using a large bore hypo. The entire bottom edge of one door delam
inated which strangely enough made repair easier.
3. The rear index holes didn't match so door alignment relative to the
door sill was a problem. It was possible that the inner door half could si
t too low in the openings and not have reasonable clearance from the sills.
Without correction, this might result in the doors sitting on the bottom o
f the door sill. To ensure consistent spacing between the door and the door
sill, I taped stacks of popsicle sticks (3 in each) onto the bottom of the
door sill. The inner door sat on these during the bonding process.
4. The popsicle stick spacers also remained in place when during the i
nitial door trim especially on the door top. I didn't want to inadvertently
trim the door to short buy taking too much off the top. The doors were lef
t a little long until the hinges were installed.
5. The initial fit objective was to get the doors flush in the opening
with only a tiny gap all the way round.
6. The Rivethead door blocks were installed on the canopy fibreglass d
oor posts
7. After the hinges and door blocks were installed considerable time w
as spent getting the doors pins open / close easily. After door seals were
installed, I got to do this all over again.
8. Using washers as shims between the hinge and the canopy can change
the gap between the canopy door post and the door. I used washers on an aft
door hinges to slightly raise the height of the aft side of the door which
in turn increased the forward gap between the door post and the door.
9. During latching the doors move fore / aft depending on which door p
in contacts the door first and which has more friction. This in turn moves
the door in the frame and changes the fore / aft gaps between the door and
he canopy. A shim in the door opening between the canopy and the door preve
nts this shift during fitting. Uncorrected, this was going to be a problem.
10. The door seals caused the bottom of the doors to be pushed out which i
n turn resulted in the considerable pressure being required (on the outside
of the door) to close the door enough for the door pins to engage.
11. I found the once the door seals were more than =BD compressed, the res
istive force on the doors increased significantly. By removing more materia
l from the outside of the canopy opening, I was able to reduce the seal com
pression and get an easier to close door. This was especially true of the c
anopy door posts.
12. What made a *huge* difference in getting the doors to close easily was
pushing the canopy door sill inboard by about 1/8" This moved the seal tha
t contacts the bottom of the door inboard and took most of outward pressure
off the bottom of the door.
13. I floxed the nylon guide blocks on the fire/aft edges of the doors so
that they were flush with the inner door perimeter. Consequently they inter
fered with the previously installed Rivethead door blocks. To correct, the
canopy door posts were notched to allow the Rivethead blocks to mount dire
ctly on the aluminum door posts and thereby provide clearance for the door.
I shimmed the Rivethead blocks so that there was minimal clearance between
the doors and the blocks. This ensures that the doors remain correctly ali
gned within the door opening. See #9.
14. Once the door pins engaged the Rivethead door block, it still took som
e effort to fully engage the pins. There were several factors that added to
the effort:
=B7 There is a lot of internal friction the Van's ratchet mechanism
. Application of white grease made operation *much* easier
=B7 White grease on the door pins reduced the effort required to la
tch the doors.
=B7 There is a slight bow on the door. The long door pin should hav
e a slight curve to ensure it does not bind against the in side of the door
=B7 The further the door pins go into the door blocks, the greater
the closing effort required. I reduced mine so that the only extend about
=BC" through the aluminum door posts.
=B7 The more pressure required to push the door in place so the pin
s can engage, the more effort required to close the door
=B7 If the door perimeter contacts the canopy anywhere, the effort
required to close the door will increase.
What I would do differently
=B7 When bonding the door halves, use considerable more epoxy & flo
x on the door perimeter especially close to the inner edge of the flanges t
o be bonded.
=B7 Pay more attention to the curves on the door pins (especially t
he long ones). One of the pins was binding on the door interior thus increa
sing the effort required to latch the door.
=B7 Grease the ratcheting mechanism before starting the door fit. A
lot of the door stiffness comes from the door mechanisms. When trying to a
djust the fit, it would have beneficial to have the stiffness out of the eq
uation as it was sometime difficult to know what was causing the fit proble
ms.
=B7 Install the door seals prior to doing the initial door fit.
=B7 Pay more attention to where the door seals are being compressed
too much when closing the door PRIOR to trimming the inside of the canopy
flange. (In some places, I had to build up the inside of the canopy flange
as I had to take more off the outside of the flange. To reduce door compres
sion.
=B7 Flox the fore and aft door pin guides when building the doors
=B7 Install the Rivethead door blocks directly on the aluminum door
posts rather than first fitting on the canopy.
=B7 Shim the Rivethead door blocks to ensure door alignment when fi
tting the doors
Then end result of this is I can now close and latch both doors with only o
ne finger of pressure on the inside door handle with only one finger of pre
ssure on the outside of the bottom of the door.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Living in a f/g world
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|