Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:57 AM - Re: Door locks (AirMike)
2. 05:44 AM - Re: Re: Door locks (Miller John)
3. 06:43 AM - Re: Re: Door locks (Rene Felker)
4. 07:26 AM - Was: Door locks (Jesse Saint)
5. 07:26 AM - Re: Re: Door locks (Miller John)
6. 07:43 AM - IO-540 Parts & Overhaul Manuals (Neal George)
7. 08:17 AM - Re: Re: Door locks (Bob Kaufmann)
8. 08:17 AM - Re: IO-540 Parts & Overhaul Manuals (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
9. 08:17 AM - Re: door locks (Don McDonald)
10. 08:25 AM - Re: Re: Door locks (Linn Walters)
11. 09:45 AM - Re: Was: Door locks Now Flaps (Robin Marks)
12. 10:48 AM - Re: Was: Door locks Now Flaps (Jeff Carpenter)
13. 10:48 AM - Window Write Up Repost (Jeff Carpenter)
14. 10:48 AM - Re: IO-540 Parts & Overhaul Manuals (Lew Gallagher)
15. 10:54 AM - Re: Flaps (Jesse Saint)
16. 11:23 AM - Re: IO-540 Parts & Overhaul Manuals (Neal George)
17. 12:40 PM - RV-10 Video (David Shelton)
18. 01:14 PM - Re: RV-10 Video (John Jessen)
19. 01:23 PM - Re: Was: Door locks (Miller John)
20. 01:45 PM - Re: Was: Door locks (lbgjb10)
21. 02:40 PM - Re: Re: Door locks (Miller John)
22. 03:25 PM - Re: Re: Door locks (Robert Brunkenhoefer)
23. 04:39 PM - Re: IO-540 Parts & Overhaul Manuals (Robert Brunkenhoefer)
24. 04:39 PM - Re: Was: Door locks (Robert Brunkenhoefer)
25. 04:56 PM - Re: Re: Door locks (Bill DeRouchey)
26. 06:55 PM - Re: Re: New garmin traffic system was announced (Bill DeRouchey)
27. 07:03 PM - Re: RV-10 Video (David Shelton)
Message 1
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I put in the cheap - flimsy Van's lock. You only need it on one door - use a wedge
or other restraint on the Passenger side door. The alarm is probably just
as good of an idea. A decal indicating alarm protection might be as good as a
lock. The lock is to send the thief to the plane parked next to yours. It is really
a visual to keep the thief from climbing up on the wing and damaging your
flap.
Alway keep in mind the Van's philosophy of light and INEXPENSIVE..
Remember that you own a light and fast RV10 not a spam can that is essentially
a pig with lipstick.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B Kit - phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262236#262236
Message 2
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I used a simple trailer lock on both doors. Locking arm swings down
into a cutout in the top of the lower door frame.
Similar to the baggage door key, but I changed that one out and put a
combo lock on it so I don't have to mess with a key every time I want
to get into the baggage compartment.
Grumpy
N184JM
do not archive
On Sep 8, 2009, at 10:08 PM, David McNeill wrote:
>
> IIRC locks were not supplied or specified in the kit. It is roll
> your own
> time. I concur with the Blue mountain mess though. I am not
> justifying Vans
> simply stating that Vans omits that part of the kit.
>
Message 3
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That combo lock sounds like a great idea. Is it a drop in replacement?
Where can I get one....
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller John
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 6:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door locks
I used a simple trailer lock on both doors. Locking arm swings down
into a cutout in the top of the lower door frame.
Similar to the baggage door key, but I changed that one out and put a
combo lock on it so I don't have to mess with a key every time I want
to get into the baggage compartment.
Grumpy
N184JM
do not archive
On Sep 8, 2009, at 10:08 PM, David McNeill wrote:
>
> IIRC locks were not supplied or specified in the kit. It is roll
> your own
> time. I concur with the Blue mountain mess though. I am not
> justifying Vans
> simply stating that Vans omits that part of the kit.
>
Message 4
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This brings up another issue. Do most people leave their flaps down
when parked for ease of getting up and down without as much chance of
standing on the flap? We always leave our flaps down when on the
ground.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Sep 9, 2009, at 7:56 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
> I put in the cheap - flimsy Van's lock. You only need it on one door
> - use a wedge or other restraint on the Passenger side door. The
> alarm is probably just as good of an idea. A decal indicating alarm
> protection might be as good as a lock. The lock is to send the thief
> to the plane parked next to yours. It is really a visual to keep the
> thief from climbing up on the wing and damaging your flap.
>
> Alway keep in mind the Van's philosophy of light and INEXPENSIVE..
> Remember that you own a light and fast RV10 not a spam can that is
> essentially a pig with lipstick.
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B Kit - phase 1
Message 5
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|
Get at any hardware store.
I mounted it about center bottom of each door. Mount low enough so
that the arm can go down into the lower frame.
Handle is free to move as normal, but door won't open with the latch
of the door into the frame.
grumpy
N184JM
do not archive
On Sep 9, 2009, at 8:32 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
> That combo lock sounds like a great idea. Is it a drop in replacement?
> Where can I get one....
>
> Rene' Felker
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
> 801-721-6080
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller John
> Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 6:43 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door locks
>
>
> I used a simple trailer lock on both doors. Locking arm swings down
> into a cutout in the top of the lower door frame.
>
> Similar to the baggage door key, but I changed that one out and put a
> combo lock on it so I don't have to mess with a key every time I want
> to get into the baggage compartment.
>
> Grumpy
> N184JM
>
> do not archive
>
> On Sep 8, 2009, at 10:08 PM, David McNeill wrote:
>
>>
>> IIRC locks were not supplied or specified in the kit. It is roll
>> your own
>> time. I concur with the Blue mountain mess though. I am not
>> justifying Vans
>> simply stating that Vans omits that part of the kit.
>>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | IO-540 Parts & Overhaul Manuals |
Listers -
I need to tear into an IO-540-C4B5.
Does anybody have electronic versions of the Parts and Overhaul manuals?
Neal E. George
2023 Everglades Drive
Navarre, FL 32566
H - 850-515-0640
C - 850-218-4838
Message 7
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Show us a photo
Bob K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller John
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 7:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door locks
Get at any hardware store.
I mounted it about center bottom of each door. Mount low enough so
that the arm can go down into the lower frame.
Handle is free to move as normal, but door won't open with the latch
of the door into the frame.
grumpy
N184JM
do not archive
On Sep 9, 2009, at 8:32 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
> That combo lock sounds like a great idea. Is it a drop in replacement?
> Where can I get one....
>
> Rene' Felker
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
> 801-721-6080
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller John
> Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 6:43 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door locks
>
>
> I used a simple trailer lock on both doors. Locking arm swings down
> into a cutout in the top of the lower door frame.
>
> Similar to the baggage door key, but I changed that one out and put a
> combo lock on it so I don't have to mess with a key every time I want
> to get into the baggage compartment.
>
> Grumpy
> N184JM
>
> do not archive
>
> On Sep 8, 2009, at 10:08 PM, David McNeill wrote:
>
>>
>> IIRC locks were not supplied or specified in the kit. It is roll
>> your own
>> time. I concur with the Blue mountain mess though. I am not
>> justifying Vans
>> simply stating that Vans omits that part of the kit.
>>
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: IO-540 Parts & Overhaul Manuals |
I managed to get paper manuals off eBay for a very reasonable price.=C2-
IIRC, there were a few DVD's available also.
David=C2- Clifford
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neal George" <n8zg@mchsi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 9, 2009 10:31:15 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RV10-List: IO-540 Parts & Overhaul Manuals
Listers =93
I need to tear into an IO-540-C4B5.
Does anybody have electronic versions of the Parts and Overhaul manuals?
Neal E. George
2023 Everglades Drive
Navarre, FL=C2- 32566
H - 850-515-0640
C - 850-218-4838
==
Message 9
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|
Is it more of a target because if they get caught, not likely, they would t
hen get 5 years of free room and board..... and get to visit all their budd
ies?>?>?>?-
We use a simple lock on the pilot door, and a strap which holds the copilot
latch from being moved.- Don
--- On Tue, 9/8/09, David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
From: David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: door locks
Aother possibility is a sign in the window. "Theft or damage to this aircra
ft is a federal crime punishable by 5 years and $250,000-fine etc........
................................". this is the way they post at my airport.
Of course in this environment it might make the aircraft more of a target.
..
=0A=0A=0A
Message 10
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Hi Bob! I was corresponding with rick ..... Louise and I'll be in LAS
at 6 PM tomorrow, staying through Wed. I was hoping to get some air
time in Ricks but he's down for the moment. I wanna get a look at your
project too, if you have time.
Linn
Message 11
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Subject: | Was: Door locks Now Flaps |
Jessie,
I try to minimize the number of times I cycle to flaps by
leaving them down after landing and taxi back to my hangar. They stay
down till I power up for my next start where I hit the flap up toggle
while my PFD comes alive & I go through my start procedure. By the time
my engine is primed the flaps are up and I am ready to crank the engine.
I then put the 3 degrees in so as to not forget before take off. I
actually have several reminders on my check list to put the 3 degrees in
as it is an easy thing to overlook. This procedure minimizes the number
of times I cycle the flap motor and also keeps the flaps out of the way
of control surface damaging visitors.
I follow this procedure because I have hangars at both ends of
my regular commute. I would have the flaps in the up position if/when I
have to leave the plane outdoors overnight. I also retract the flaps
anytime I an taxiing over surfaces with loose debris.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 7:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Was: Door locks
This brings up another issue. Do most people leave their flaps down
when parked for ease of getting up and down without as much chance of
standing on the flap? We always leave our flaps down when on the
ground.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Sep 9, 2009, at 7:56 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
> I put in the cheap - flimsy Van's lock. You only need it on one door
> - use a wedge or other restraint on the Passenger side door. The
> alarm is probably just as good of an idea. A decal indicating alarm
> protection might be as good as a lock. The lock is to send the thief
> to the plane parked next to yours. It is really a visual to keep the
> thief from climbing up on the wing and damaging your flap.
>
> Alway keep in mind the Van's philosophy of light and INEXPENSIVE..
> Remember that you own a light and fast RV10 not a spam can that is
> essentially a pig with lipstick.
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B Kit - phase 1
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Was: Door locks Now Flaps |
I assume it's also advisable to retract the flaps when on the ground
in any kind of high or gusty wind condition.
Jeff Carpenter
On Sep 9, 2009, at 9:37 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Jessie,
> I try to minimize the number of times I cycle to flaps by
> leaving them down after landing and taxi back to my hangar. They stay
> down till I power up for my next start where I hit the flap up toggle
> while my PFD comes alive & I go through my start procedure. By the
> time
> my engine is primed the flaps are up and I am ready to crank the
> engine.
> I then put the 3 degrees in so as to not forget before take off. I
> actually have several reminders on my check list to put the 3
> degrees in
> as it is an easy thing to overlook. This procedure minimizes the
> number
> of times I cycle the flap motor and also keeps the flaps out of the
> way
> of control surface damaging visitors.
> I follow this procedure because I have hangars at both ends of
> my regular commute. I would have the flaps in the up position if/
> when I
> have to leave the plane outdoors overnight. I also retract the flaps
> anytime I an taxiing over surfaces with loose debris.
>
> Robin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 7:08 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Was: Door locks
>
>
> This brings up another issue. Do most people leave their flaps down
> when parked for ease of getting up and down without as much chance of
> standing on the flap? We always leave our flaps down when on the
> ground.
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Sep 9, 2009, at 7:56 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
>>
>> I put in the cheap - flimsy Van's lock. You only need it on one door
>> - use a wedge or other restraint on the Passenger side door. The
>> alarm is probably just as good of an idea. A decal indicating alarm
>> protection might be as good as a lock. The lock is to send the thief
>> to the plane parked next to yours. It is really a visual to keep the
>> thief from climbing up on the wing and damaging your flap.
>>
>> Alway keep in mind the Van's philosophy of light and INEXPENSIVE..
>> Remember that you own a light and fast RV10 not a spam can that is
>> essentially a pig with lipstick.
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '10 or Bust
>> Q/B Kit - phase 1
>
>
Message 13
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|
Subject: | Window Write Up Repost |
In response to a number of requests, I am reposting my window write up
with some photographs and additional information
As you may know, I attempted to install my left side door window last
week with somewhat disastrous results. As best I can tell, my shop
was too hot (about 85 degrees) and the Weld-on 10 set up too quickly.
The bond to the fiberglass was perfect, but I had voids between the
window and the dried Weld-on 10 in over half of the bonding area. I
had also failed to remove the masking tape from the inside of the
window soon enough and had a fair amount of masking tape trapped by
the Weld-on bead. In the picture below, the whiter area is where the
window did not bond:
This edge, though not perfect, is more like what the bond should look
like:
My initial thought was to try to save the window by injecting epoxy
into the gaps (as some have done with apparent success), but after
discussions with Vans, the window manufacturer and tech support by the
makers of Weld-on 10, I decided to route out the window and start
over. There are some things I learned from these discussions that are
worth sharing.
Vans was not willing to say that the injected epoxy approach would
work and referred me to the window manufacturer, Jeff from Airplane
Plastics in Ohio (937-669-2677). Jeff spent a good deal of time with
me on the phone. He initially thought the injected epoxy idea might
work and suggested I use Scotch Weld 2216 to accomplish the task. As
we discussed the situation further, I was able to communicate that
what we were really trying to do in this case was bond the window to
the dried Weld-on 10... not the window to the fiberglass. He thought
that could still work... as long as I could scuff up the Weld-on 10!
So, I was back to square one. We started to discuss alternatives to
Weld-on 10 for window installation. He confessed that it had been a
long time since he had actually installed a window... then recollected
that the windows would pop out during the structural roll over test on
the RV-10 until Vans switched to Weld-on 10 to bond them in. With
Weld-on 10, the window would break before the bond would. As I
understood the conversation, Weld-on 10 was an important component of
the plane passing the test. This made my decision to start over again
certain.
With that, Jeff suggested I route it out with an Onsrud carbide double
flute 1/2" x 1/2" bit (I wound up using a similar bit I had in my
router and it worked well), I said good bye and ponied up the $150 to
Vans for another window. Here's what the door looked like after the
window was routed out (but before I sanded it clean):
I also made a call to tech support at IPS (877-202-0858 ext 3304),
the makers of Weld-on 10, hoping to find another product that would
stay open longer. Here's what I learned:
Weld-on 10 stays open the longest of any product they have for this
application
At 70 degrees, there should be 15-20 minutes of time to get the job
done (I had about 5 minutes at 85 degrees)
Be certain you are using product less than one year from the
manufacture date as the working time decreases with age
Pot life will increase as temperature decreases. Though I have asked
the question, to date, they have been unable to give me a temperature
below which the product should not be used
They do make a dispensing gun that mixes while dispensing for $300-
$400. Weld-on 10 is packed in to a cartridge for this purpose and
called Weld-on 811.
I'm attaching the product bulletin for Weld-on 10. One rather
tempting note they make is that you can apply Resin A to one surface
and Resin B to the other to eliminate pot life issues all together...
but you do wind up with an unspecified reduction in the strength of
the bond.
I've also combed through the archives and had I done that sooner might
have avoided some of these problems. Both Lew Gallagher and John
Gonzalez had very useful posts (hindsight is 20/20) in early January
of this year.
I'm going to wait until the fires in our local mountains have stopped
burning and I'm able to keep the temperature in the shop at or below
70 degrees before I try again. I'll get a second set of hands to
spread the Weld-on 10 more quickly and be sure to pull up the masking
tape once the window is down securely. The gun seems a bit pricey. I
did get a suggestion off line from Mike Andresen that I mix the Weld-
on 10 in a zip lock bag, clip the corner and spread it that way. I
believe that is the route I'll take when I try this again.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
one step forward... two steps back
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: IO-540 Parts & Overhaul Manuals |
Hey Neal,
I have the PDF owners manual that Tim sent me, but I had to buy the
overhaul PDF off Ebay. I'd send it to you but it is too large a file to
send via email -- my server won't take it. If someone has a ftp site, I
would be glad to share it that way by sending a CD, but there may be
copyright concerns. It is certainly more helpful than none, but it's
not the workshop manuals I'm used to with cars.
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: Neal George
To: rv-list@matronics.com ; rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 10:31 AM
Subject: RV10-List: IO-540 Parts & Overhaul Manuals
Listers -
I need to tear into an IO-540-C4B5.
Does anybody have electronic versions of the Parts and Overhaul
manuals?
Neal E. George
2023 Everglades Drive
Navarre, FL 32566
H - 850-515-0640
C - 850-218-4838
Message 15
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Robyn,
I do the same, leaving the flaps down after landing and taxi back to
hangar or tiedowns. I don't drop the flaps for take-off and climb
just because I have forgotten to put them up in cruise before, so the
little advantage that you get in climb is not worth the chance of
forgetting to put them up in cruise. If I am short-fielding it, I put
in more flaps to start with and hit the locking-up switch almost
immediately after takeoff and accelerate in the climb. I usually
leave them down even when tied down outside. Anybody else?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Sep 9, 2009, at 12:37 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Jessie,
> I try to minimize the number of times I cycle to flaps by
> leaving them down after landing and taxi back to my hangar. They stay
> down till I power up for my next start where I hit the flap up toggle
> while my PFD comes alive & I go through my start procedure. By the
> time
> my engine is primed the flaps are up and I am ready to crank the
> engine.
> I then put the 3 degrees in so as to not forget before take off. I
> actually have several reminders on my check list to put the 3
> degrees in
> as it is an easy thing to overlook. This procedure minimizes the
> number
> of times I cycle the flap motor and also keeps the flaps out of the
> way
> of control surface damaging visitors.
> I follow this procedure because I have hangars at both ends of
> my regular commute. I would have the flaps in the up position if/
> when I
> have to leave the plane outdoors overnight. I also retract the flaps
> anytime I an taxiing over surfaces with loose debris.
>
> Robin
Message 16
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Subject: | IO-540 Parts & Overhaul Manuals |
Thanks Lew -
Tim fixed me up.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: IO-540 Parts & Overhaul Manuals
Hey Neal,
I have the PDF owners manual that Tim sent me, but I had to buy the overhaul
PDF off Ebay. I'd send it to you but it is too large a file to send via
email -- my server won't take it. If someone has a ftp site, I would be
glad to share it that way by sending a CD, but there may be copyright
concerns. It is certainly more helpful than none, but it's not the workshop
manuals I'm used to with cars.
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: Neal George <mailto:n8zg@mchsi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 10:31 AM
Subject: RV10-List: IO-540 Parts & Overhaul Manuals
Listers -
I need to tear into an IO-540-C4B5.
Does anybody have electronic versions of the Parts and Overhaul manuals?
Neal E. George
2023 Everglades Drive
Navarre, FL 32566
H - 850-515-0640
C - 850-218-4838
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
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Message 17
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I just posted a new video of our modified RV-10 on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dpoSsKZ8T4
Please let me know what you think. -David
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262312#262312
Message 18
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Wayyyyyy cool. But does the -10 fly?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Shelton
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 12:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Video
I just posted a new video of our modified RV-10 on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dpoSsKZ8T4
Please let me know what you think. -David
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262312#262312
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Was: Door locks |
Mine are always down when parked.
grumpy
N184JM
do not archive
On Sep 9, 2009, at 9:07 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> This brings up another issue. Do most people leave their flaps down
> when parked for ease of getting up and down without as much chance
> of standing on the flap? We always leave our flaps down when on the
> ground.
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Sep 9, 2009, at 7:56 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
>>
>> I put in the cheap - flimsy Van's lock. You only need it on one
>> door - use a wedge or other restraint on the Passenger side door.
>> The alarm is probably just as good of an idea. A decal indicating
>> alarm protection might be as good as a lock. The lock is to send
>> the thief to the plane parked next to yours. It is really a visual
>> to keep the thief from climbing up on the wing and damaging your
>> flap.
>>
>> Alway keep in mind the Van's philosophy of light and INEXPENSIVE..
>> Remember that you own a light and fast RV10 not a spam can that is
>> essentially a pig with lipstick.
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '10 or Bust
>> Q/B Kit - phase 1
>
>
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Was: Door locks |
Flaps full down when parked. Much less chance of damage and easier to get in and
out. Normally taxi with no flaps, and take off with 1/2 flaps. (home base
grass) Little AFS voice, 'check flaps' is helpful reminder to pull them up on
cllimb. Acceleration is so quick that you quickly leave the white arc for flaps
on climb so I do pull them up fairly quickly. I then climb with cruise +3
degrees. I wish flap down speed was higher--would allow for faster patterns
with flaps--easier to slow down. larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262331#262331
Message 21
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Hate to send a pix on the net, but you can see both the cockpit door
lock (small round key entry just aft of the regular door latch (for
those inquiring minds, I fly from the right seat!).
Baggage door latch is a 3 digit combination latch, no key required.
Think it is made by Rockler or something similar. I'm not at home
with the bird this week, but can provide more specifics on that lock
off-line if somebody needs it.
grumpy
N184JM
On Sep 9, 2009, at 10:05 AM, Bob Kaufmann wrote:
>
> Show us a photo
>
> Bob K
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller John
> Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 7:08 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door locks
>
>
> Get at any hardware store.
>
> I mounted it about center bottom of each door. Mount low enough so
> that the arm can go down into the lower frame.
>
> Handle is free to move as normal, but door won't open with the latch
> of the door into the frame.
>
> grumpy
> N184JM
>
> do not archive
> On Sep 9, 2009, at 8:32 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
>>
>> That combo lock sounds like a great idea. Is it a drop in
>> replacement?
>> Where can I get one....
>>
>> Rene' Felker
>> RV-10 N423CF Flying
>> 801-721-6080
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller
>> John
>> Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 6:43 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door locks
>>
>>
>> I used a simple trailer lock on both doors. Locking arm swings down
>> into a cutout in the top of the lower door frame.
>>
>> Similar to the baggage door key, but I changed that one out and put a
>> combo lock on it so I don't have to mess with a key every time I want
>> to get into the baggage compartment.
>>
>> Grumpy
>> N184JM
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>> On Sep 8, 2009, at 10:08 PM, David McNeill wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> IIRC locks were not supplied or specified in the kit. It is roll
>>> your own
>>> time. I concur with the Blue mountain mess though. I am not
>>> justifying Vans
>>> simply stating that Vans omits that part of the kit.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 22
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Thank you for your response. You seem genuinely concerned for matters
of real concern to we rv 10 ers. I appreciate your helpful
contributions. Robert
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
520 Lawrence St.
Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert@brunklaw.com
On Sep 8, 2009, at 10:08 PM, "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
>
> IIRC locks were not supplied or specified in the kit. It is roll
> your own
> time. I concur with the Blue mountain mess though. I am not
> justifying Vans
> simply stating that Vans omits that part of the kit.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
> Brunkenhoefer
> Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 5:23 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door locks
>
> --> <rebrunk42@gmail.com>
>
> I criticized how blue mountain treated it's customers about the
> product they
> sold me. Each time, a beta tester for blue mountain would go on
> line and
> respond in a way to imply it would work fine if I knew what I was
> doing .
> Not a good business model. We all know what happened to them. If
> you supply
> a product it should work under normal circumstances. There should be
> no need
> to rationalize that it's failure is somehow a good design idea .
> Let's work
> on the premise the a working lock is ok to expect . It needs no
> rationale.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
> Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
> 520 Lawrence St.
> Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
> Phone: 361-888-8808
> Facsimile: 361-888-6753
> robert@brunklaw.com
>
> On Sep 8, 2009, at 6:22 PM, "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> All locks are installed to make the thief go to check the next item
>> of
>> interest. I would rather the thief had an easy entry and did not
>> damage the airframe while trying to get the avionics, etc. If you are
>> concerned about the airframe I suggest lojack and possibly an audible
>> alarm. Or perhaps airframe damage is preferred so that the thief will
>> be reluctant to fly away the aircraft
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
>> Brunkenhoefer
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 3:45 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door locks
>>
>> --> <rebrunk42@gmail.com>
>>
>> I agree too bad vans can't furnish a decent lock for such an
>> expensive
>> kit.
>> My lock does not work it probably got stripped too
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
>> Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
>> 520 Lawrence St.
>> Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
>> Phone: 361-888-8808
>> Facsimile: 361-888-6753
>> robert@brunklaw.com
>>
>> On Sep 8, 2009, at 1:08 PM, "David Shelton" <SBaircraft@yahoo.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> <SBaircraft@yahoo.com>
>>>
>>> Geoff,
>>>
>>> I just sold my RV-10 so I can't take a picture. In the locked
>>> position, the locking arm swung downwards in front of the lower gear
>>> rack. In theory... this would provide a stop and prevent the lower
>>> gear rack from moving forwards.
>>>
>>> In practice, it only took a little force on the door handle to strip
>>> the lock and open the door. My neighbor accidentally stripped his
>>> lock also... it was mostly decorative.
>>>
>>> This type of lock should probably be mounted at the bottom of the
>>> door and the arm should swing through a slot to engage the door
>>> frame.
>>> This
>>> would subject the lock to shear loading, rather than rotation. -
>>> David
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262089#262089
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: IO-540 Parts & Overhaul Manuals |
I coud use them and the engine operating Manuel
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
520 Lawrence St.
Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert@brunklaw.com
On Sep 9, 2009, at 9:31 AM, "Neal George" <n8zg@mchsi.com> wrote:
> Listers =93
>
> I need to tear into an IO-540-C4B5.
>
> Does anybody have electronic versions of the Parts and Overhaul
> manuals?
>
>
> Neal E. George
>
> 2023 Everglades Drive
>
> Navarre, FL 32566
>
> H - 850-515-0640
>
> C - 850-218-4838
>
>
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: Was: Door locks |
I always leave my flaps down.
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
520 Lawrence St.
Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert@brunklaw.com
On Sep 9, 2009, at 9:07 AM, Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com> wrote:
>
> This brings up another issue. Do most people leave their flaps down
> when parked for ease of getting up and down without as much chance
> of standing on the flap? We always leave our flaps down when on the
> ground.
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Sep 9, 2009, at 7:56 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
>>
>> I put in the cheap - flimsy Van's lock. You only need it on one
>> door - use a wedge or other restraint on the Passenger side door.
>> The alarm is probably just as good of an idea. A decal indicating
>> alarm protection might be as good as a lock. The lock is to send
>> the thief to the plane parked next to yours. It is really a visual
>> to keep the thief from climbing up on the wing and damaging your
>> flap.
>>
>> Alway keep in mind the Van's philosophy of light and INEXPENSIVE..
>> Remember that you own a light and fast RV10 not a spam can that is
>> essentially a pig with lipstick.
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '10 or Bust
>> Q/B Kit - phase 1
>
>
Message 25
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|
After getting my RV-10 flying I noodled over many door lock designs-- mos
tly of the complex variety. Next I backed away from the complex and started
over with the big simple approach.
-
I built a-prototype-solution with the thought of testing it out and imp
roving it later. After 2.5 years there has been-no reason to make improve
ments except for aesthetics and ease of manufacturing.
-
I am not presenting this as a-solution for everyone but it works well for
me.
-
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB
-
--- On Tue, 9/8/09, David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
From: David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Door locks
IIRC locks were not supplied or specified in the kit. It is roll your own
time. I concur with the Blue mountain mess though. I am not justifying Vans
simply stating that Vans omits that part of the kit.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Brunkenhoefer
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 5:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door locks
--> <rebrunk42@gmail.com>
I criticized how blue mountain treated it's customers about the product the
y
sold me.- Each time, a beta tester for blue mountain would go on line and
respond in a way to imply it would work fine if I knew what I was doing .
Not a good business model.- We all know what happened to them. If you sup
ply
a product it should work under normal circumstances. There should be no nee
d
to rationalize that it's failure is somehow a good design idea . Let's work
on the premise the a working lock is ok to expect . It needs no rationale.
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
520 Lawrence St.
Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert@brunklaw.com
On Sep 8, 2009, at 6:22 PM, "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
>
> All locks are installed to make the thief go to check the next item of
> interest. I would rather the thief had an easy entry and did not
> damage the airframe while trying to get the avionics, etc. If you are
> concerned about the airframe I suggest lojack and possibly an audible
> alarm. Or perhaps airframe damage is preferred so that the thief will
> be reluctant to fly away the aircraft
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
> Brunkenhoefer
> Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 3:45 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door locks
>
> --> <rebrunk42@gmail.com>
>
> I agree too bad vans can't furnish a decent lock for such an expensive
> kit.
> My lock does not work it probably got stripped too
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
> Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
> 520 Lawrence St.
> Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
> Phone: 361-888-8808
> Facsimile: 361-888-6753
> robert@brunklaw.com
>
> On Sep 8, 2009, at 1:08 PM, "David Shelton" <SBaircraft@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>> <SBaircraft@yahoo.com>
>>
>> Geoff,
>>
>> I just sold my RV-10 so I can't take a picture. In the locked
>> position, the locking arm swung downwards in front of the lower gear
>> rack. In theory... this would provide a stop and prevent the lower
>> gear rack from moving forwards.
>>
>> In practice, it only took a little force on the door handle to strip
>> the lock and open the door. My neighbor accidentally stripped his
>> lock also... it was mostly decorative.
>>
>> This type of lock should probably be mounted at the bottom of the
>> door and the arm should swing through a slot to engage the door
>> frame.
>> This
>> would subject the lock to shear loading, rather than rotation. -David
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262089#262089
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
le, List Admin.
Message 26
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Subject: | Re: New garmin traffic system was announced |
Of course there could be a "seeing" issue if the location of the two antenn
as-is such that the transmitter of one will swamp the receiver of the oth
er. This situation can arise even if the frequencies are different.
-
We need to review the installation requirements of all components and anten
nas relative to one another before cutting precious holes in our fuselage.
-
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB
-
-
--- On Tue, 9/8/09, William Curtis <wcurtis@nerv10.com> wrote:
From: William Curtis <wcurtis@nerv10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: New garmin traffic system was announced
The Navworx product is a UAT product and uses a frequency of 978 Mhz.- Th
is is different than the frequency used by Mode C or S transponders (1090 M
hz).- There should be not "seeing" issue between UAT and the transponder
antenna.
-
Top antenna is GPS antenna and bottom antenna is UAT antenna to communicate
with ground stations and other aircraft.
-
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
On Mon, Sep 7, 2009 at 9:13 PM, David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
The two antennas required I believe are the GPS and the fin DME/transponder
antenna My understanding was that the extra DME antenna was for top/bottom
coverage. As a former MRX user and Zaon XRX tester; I found that sometimes
the transponder antennas on the bottom of an aircraft prevented the system
from "seeing" the traffic
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Monday, September 07, 2009 5:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: New garmin traffic system was announced
--> <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
I spoke to the NavWorx guys at Sun 'n fun, and got the impression that two
antennas are required. I have gotten conflicting answers on where they need
to be. I've heard one on top & one on bottom, and I've heard two on bottom.
The shark fin is supposedly specified only because it can work in the upper
"DME" range, but so can a lot of dipole "sticks."
I'd really like to see a flat-out answer.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine &
Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261957#261===
Browse, Chat, FAQ,
="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://
===
http://forums.mle, List Admin.
====
Message 27
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|
Thanks. Yes, it flies every weekend. There's no impact on trim or handling and
the effect on cruise is under 9 knots. It's a small price to pay for the convenience
and the time saved on the ground.
-David
www.MotorcyclePilot.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262373#262373
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/in_flight_193.jpg
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