Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:14 AM - Re: The Final OSH countdown begins - Long, but sweet (morkelkey)
2. 04:41 AM - Re: Was: Door locks (Wayne Edgerton)
3. 08:18 AM - AeroTrim (Jesse Saint)
4. 08:47 AM - Andair Fuel Valve Opportunties (Bob Leffler)
5. 09:10 AM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve Opportunties (greghale)
6. 09:45 AM - Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) (nukeflyboy)
7. 09:45 AM - Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) (nukeflyboy)
8. 10:20 AM - Re: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
9. 10:56 AM - Re: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) (John Cumins)
10. 11:38 AM - QB Fuse Question (Perry, Phil)
11. 01:22 PM - Re: QB Fuse Question (Tim Olson)
12. 01:39 PM - Re: QB Fuse Question (Miller John)
13. 02:13 PM - Re: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) (Kelly McMullen)
14. 03:03 PM - Re: QB Fuse Question (Jim Berry)
15. 03:06 PM - Re: QB Fuse Question (dmaib@me.com)
16. 04:12 PM - Re: Re: QB Fuse Question (Perry, Phil)
17. 05:26 PM - Re: Re: QB Fuse Question (Michael Kraus)
18. 05:26 PM - Re: QB Fuse Question (Roxanne and Mike Lefever)
19. 06:17 PM - Re: Re: QB Fuse Question (David McNeill)
20. 06:25 PM - Re: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) (AirMike)
21. 06:45 PM - Re: QB Fuse Question (AirMike)
22. 07:19 PM - Re: Re: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) (Pascal)
23. 07:19 PM - Re: Re: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) (David McNeill)
24. 07:29 PM - Re: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) (johngoodman)
25. 07:37 PM - Re: QB Fuse Question (johngoodman)
26. 08:16 PM - Re: Re: QB Fuse Question (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
27. 09:22 PM - Re: Re: QB Fuse Question (David McNeill)
28. 09:25 PM - Re: Re: QB Fuse Question (David McNeill)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: The Final OSH countdown begins - Long, but sweet |
Hi dear friends,
All are ticket sold ?
If you have any one then please give us, Thank you for give a information.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262391#262391
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| Subject: | Re: Was: Door locks |
I always leave the flaps in the full down position when parked. Less
chance for someone to step on them.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT
do not archive
Time: 07:26:31 AM PST US
Subject: Was: Door locks
From: Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>
This brings up another issue. Do most people leave their flaps
down
when parked for ease of getting up and down without as much chance
of
standing on the flap? We always leave our flaps down when on the
ground.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
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For those who had been wanting to install the AeroTrim servo for
Aileron and/or Rudder trim, Norm's daughter and son-in-law are now
running the business. Their new number is 786-326-8801. Elyse will
probably answer and her husband's name is Eric. They still maintain
their FAA Repair Station, so I imagine most of the quality control
systems are still in place as the parts are PMA'ed.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
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| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve Opportunties |
At Oshkosh, I took advantage of ordering an Andair FS202x7 fuel valve. I
went to install it and found a few surprises. I wasn't end the greatest of
moods, since I just came back after being re-ended at a stop light a lunch.
I'm ok and only the bumper cover was sacrificed. Anyways, back to the
subject at hand. My first surprise was that I found a black anodized fascia
plate. They charge extra and I didn't order one. That didn't bother me,
since it would match the carbon fiber trim I plan on using in the interior.
I quickly looked at the plans and it stated to drill a 1.25" hole to mount
remote selector. I did so and drew a set of perpendicular lines in
preparation to drill holes to mount the selector and fascia plate. The
remote selector and the fascia plate don't use the same triangular mounting
holes that the valve uses.
In studying the plans, it shows mounting the remote selector with the
mounting brackets in a "x" configuration. I've included photos in this post
and hope they come through well. They may shop up as attachments and may
make my text look a little weird, since I've embedded them in the body of
the email. I have higher resolution images if anyone wants them.
This is a copy of the install directions from Andair showing the "X"
configuration of the selector plate.
plan.jpg
A quick glance at the fascia plate made it very apparent that if I mounted
the selector plate per plans, I wasn't going to be happy with the
orientation of the text. For left and right to be positioned correctly,
one hole had to be orientated forward on the tunnel cover.
cover.jpg
This photo shows the remote selector per the plans install procedure.
Notice the position of the left and right indents for the pointer.
orientationbyplan.jpg
If you attempt to center the mounting holes forward and aft, then the indent
for the off position for the pointer will be off center.
orientationbyvertical.jpg
If you align the selector so that the right and left indents are centered
and the off indent is aligned on the aft centerline, none of the holes are
aligned in any symmetrical fashion.
Orientationbystops.jpg
At this point, I think I'm going to wait until I mount the valve in the
tunnel before attempting to drill the mounting holes for the remote
selector. What caught me off guard and surprised me was that the mounting
holes for the remote selector weren't symmetrical. They're not square, so
when you turn it to correctly orientate the indents so that the pointer
points at the left and right labels on the fascia plate it looks weird.
Since I hadn't heard of this issue before, is this a new part from Andair?
In looking at several other builder's sites it appeared that these
originally used a triangle mount just like the fuel valve. I'm curious as
to what other's have experienced?
Thanks,
Bob
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve Opportunties |
I had installed the standard valve from Andair in my console. It had the 3 point
attachment. I had to change the valve to the remote selector with the extension.
The remote selector valve's cover plate is larger than the standard valve.
This presented a big problem as I had already had the console covers wood
grained. I had to very carefully enlarge the hole for the new valve. Also
I noticed that the mounting holes were not standard in the layout. I placed the
selector's cover on my console to locate the mounting screws and then drilled
them. This was the best way for me to align the selector cover on my console.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262424#262424
Message 6
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| Subject: | Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) |
I have been reading the posts about engines hoses and wondering about what to get
and what to leave out in Van's FWF kit. Another RV-10 builder recently got
the kit and I noticed that the hoses looked like teflon coated stainless steel
braid. I emailed Van's to find out and this is what they sent me. Included
is the current inventory of the kit.
start of Van's note:
1) The Fuel and Oil lines in the RV-10 Firewall Forward kits
are teflon coated with stainless steel braid.
(2) The Vibration mount we sell are made in the USA by
"Vibration Isolation Products".
(3) I have the list of the RV-10 Firewall Forward kit below for
you.
Best Regards
Van's
FF-10 IO-540 F.WALL FWD.KIT IO-540
3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
2.00 DUCT CBT-5/8 COOLING BLAST TUBE
2.00 EA 4" DUCT HOSE CLAMP 4" HOSE CLAMP
1.00 EA CV HOSE 7545 BREATHER HOSE -540
6.00 EA GASKET 77611 BLO-PROOF EXHST GASKT
4.00 EA DYNA VI I(O)-540 VIB.ISO. RV-10 ONLY
1.00 EA OIL COOLER 20006A OIL COOLER I(O)-540
1.00 ES ALTERNATOR DELUXE 60A KIT W/OV PROTECT
1.00 FAB-360/540 FLTRD A/BOX-360 FI320
1.00 FF-1005 BREATHER TUBE
1.00 IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES
1.00 PROP GOV MT P-860-3 I(O)-540 LYCOMING
1.00 VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5
1.00 VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25
1.00 VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5
1.00 VA-168 SENDER MOUNT
1.00 VA-186 OIL COOLER BOX ASSY.
1.00 VA-187 4" FLANGED DUCT
1.00 VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE 27"
1.00 BAF-10-540 BAFFLE KIT IO-540
1.00 PT-035X1/4X4' LO PRES-BRKE RES.TUBE
1.00 SS304-26GAX1/2X9 SCAT CLAMP !!SHARP!!
1.00 VENT SCAT 2X3' RED 2" SCAT 3' LONG
1.00 VENT SCAT 2X6' SCAT TUBE X 6 FT
1.00 VENT SCAT 4X16" 4" DIA. RED SCAT HOSE
1.00 EA DYNA BOLT I(O)-540 MOTOR MOUNT BOLT KIT
1.00 BAG 516 RIVET AN426AD3-3.5
1.00 BAG 517 RIVET AN426AD3-4
1.00 BAG 518 RIVET AN426AD4-4
1.00 BAG 519 RIVET AN426AD4-5
1.00 BAG 520 MISC. AN BOLTS
1.00 BAG 521 MISC. WASHERS
1.00 BAG 522-1 MISC. FITTINGS/CLAMPS
1.00 BAG 523-1 FITTINGS/MISC.
1.00 BAG 524 MISC. CLAMPS
1.00 BAG 525-1 MISC/BEARINGS
1.00 BAG 526-1 CABIN HEAT SHUTTLE HW
1.00 PT-062X1/4X24" HIGH PRESSURE
1.00 CT BLK THROTTLE 47.5 10 (I(O)-540)
1.00 CT BLUE VPROP 72.5 10 (I(O)-540)FWD GOV
1.00 CT RED VMIXTURE 51.5 10 (I(O)-540)
1.00 VA-182-PC KIT THR/MIX BKT IO VERT
1.00 VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5
1.00 DOC FF-IO-540 TEXT/DWGS RV-10 F.FWD
1.00 EA EXH 10 I(O)-540 I(O)-540 VETTERMAN
1.00 VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0
end of Van's note
First of all it is good to see that they have switched to teflon/SS hoses for the
fuel and oil lines.
I am not familiar with the "Vibration Isolation Products" engine mount. Is anyone?
It is a division of Pacific Molded Technologies in California. Do you recommend
that I stick with Lord Mounts?
So far it looks like I will stick with Van's hoses and just about everything else
but will drop a couple items. I have another source for a Plane Power alternator
so I will drop it. (They are good alternators and I recommend that you
use them.) I bought an AirFlow oil cooler from Alex and will drop it from the
kit. I still need to make up my mind on the engine mounts and throttle quadrant.
Any other thoughts?
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262431#262431
Message 7
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| Subject: | Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) |
I have been reading the posts about engines hoses and wondering about what to get
and what to leave out in Van's FWF kit. Another RV-10 builder recently got
the kit and I noticed that the hoses looked like teflon coated stainless steel
braid. I emailed Van's to find out and this is what they sent me. Included
is the current inventory of the kit.
start of Van's note:
1) The Fuel and Oil lines in the RV-10 Firewall Forward kits
are teflon coated with stainless steel braid.
(2) The Vibration mount we sell are made in the USA by
"Vibration Isolation Products".
(3) I have the list of the RV-10 Firewall Forward kit below for
you.
Best Regards
Van's
FF-10 IO-540 F.WALL FWD.KIT IO-540
3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
2.00 DUCT CBT-5/8 COOLING BLAST TUBE
2.00 EA 4" DUCT HOSE CLAMP 4" HOSE CLAMP
1.00 EA CV HOSE 7545 BREATHER HOSE -540
6.00 EA GASKET 77611 BLO-PROOF EXHST GASKT
4.00 EA DYNA VI I(O)-540 VIB.ISO. RV-10 ONLY
1.00 EA OIL COOLER 20006A OIL COOLER I(O)-540
1.00 ES ALTERNATOR DELUXE 60A KIT W/OV PROTECT
1.00 FAB-360/540 FLTRD A/BOX-360 FI320
1.00 FF-1005 BREATHER TUBE
1.00 IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES
1.00 PROP GOV MT P-860-3 I(O)-540 LYCOMING
1.00 VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5
1.00 VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25
1.00 VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5
1.00 VA-168 SENDER MOUNT
1.00 VA-186 OIL COOLER BOX ASSY.
1.00 VA-187 4" FLANGED DUCT
1.00 VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE 27"
1.00 BAF-10-540 BAFFLE KIT IO-540
1.00 PT-035X1/4X4' LO PRES-BRKE RES.TUBE
1.00 SS304-26GAX1/2X9 SCAT CLAMP !!SHARP!!
1.00 VENT SCAT 2X3' RED 2" SCAT 3' LONG
1.00 VENT SCAT 2X6' SCAT TUBE X 6 FT
1.00 VENT SCAT 4X16" 4" DIA. RED SCAT HOSE
1.00 EA DYNA BOLT I(O)-540 MOTOR MOUNT BOLT KIT
1.00 BAG 516 RIVET AN426AD3-3.5
1.00 BAG 517 RIVET AN426AD3-4
1.00 BAG 518 RIVET AN426AD4-4
1.00 BAG 519 RIVET AN426AD4-5
1.00 BAG 520 MISC. AN BOLTS
1.00 BAG 521 MISC. WASHERS
1.00 BAG 522-1 MISC. FITTINGS/CLAMPS
1.00 BAG 523-1 FITTINGS/MISC.
1.00 BAG 524 MISC. CLAMPS
1.00 BAG 525-1 MISC/BEARINGS
1.00 BAG 526-1 CABIN HEAT SHUTTLE HW
1.00 PT-062X1/4X24" HIGH PRESSURE
1.00 CT BLK THROTTLE 47.5 10 (I(O)-540)
1.00 CT BLUE VPROP 72.5 10 (I(O)-540)FWD GOV
1.00 CT RED VMIXTURE 51.5 10 (I(O)-540)
1.00 VA-182-PC KIT THR/MIX BKT IO VERT
1.00 VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5
1.00 DOC FF-IO-540 TEXT/DWGS RV-10 F.FWD
1.00 EA EXH 10 I(O)-540 I(O)-540 VETTERMAN
1.00 VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0
end of Van's note
First of all it is good to see that they have switched to teflon/SS hoses for the
fuel and oil lines.
I am not familiar with the "Vibration Isolation Products" engine mount. Is anyone?
It is a division of Pacific Molded Technologies in California. Do you recommend
that I stick with Lord Mounts?
So far it looks like I will stick with Van's hoses and just about everything else
but will drop a couple items. I have another source for a Plane Power alternator
so I will drop it. (They are good alternators and I recommend that you
use them.) I bought an AirFlow oil cooler from Alex and will drop it from the
kit. I still need to make up my mind on the engine mounts and throttle quadrant.
Any other thoughts?
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262432#262432
Message 8
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| Subject: | Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) |
While they may be SS covered Teflon, I'm betting that they are not fire sleeved
so take that into account when comparing aftermarkets with Van's.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 11:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses)
I have been reading the posts about engines hoses and wondering about what to get
and what to leave out in Van's FWF kit. Another RV-10 builder recently got
the kit and I noticed that the hoses looked like teflon coated stainless steel
braid. I emailed Van's to find out and this is what they sent me. Included
is the current inventory of the kit.
start of Van's note:
1) The Fuel and Oil lines in the RV-10 Firewall Forward kits
are teflon coated with stainless steel braid.
(2) The Vibration mount we sell are made in the USA by
"Vibration Isolation Products".
(3) I have the list of the RV-10 Firewall Forward kit below for
you.
Best Regards
Van's
FF-10 IO-540 F.WALL FWD.KIT IO-540
3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
2.00 DUCT CBT-5/8 COOLING BLAST TUBE
2.00 EA 4" DUCT HOSE CLAMP 4" HOSE CLAMP
1.00 EA CV HOSE 7545 BREATHER HOSE -540
6.00 EA GASKET 77611 BLO-PROOF EXHST GASKT
4.00 EA DYNA VI I(O)-540 VIB.ISO. RV-10 ONLY
1.00 EA OIL COOLER 20006A OIL COOLER I(O)-540
1.00 ES ALTERNATOR DELUXE 60A KIT W/OV PROTECT
1.00 FAB-360/540 FLTRD A/BOX-360 FI320
1.00 FF-1005 BREATHER TUBE
1.00 IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES
1.00 PROP GOV MT P-860-3 I(O)-540 LYCOMING
1.00 VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5
1.00 VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25
1.00 VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5
1.00 VA-168 SENDER MOUNT
1.00 VA-186 OIL COOLER BOX ASSY.
1.00 VA-187 4" FLANGED DUCT
1.00 VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE 27"
1.00 BAF-10-540 BAFFLE KIT IO-540
1.00 PT-035X1/4X4' LO PRES-BRKE RES.TUBE
1.00 SS304-26GAX1/2X9 SCAT CLAMP !!SHARP!!
1.00 VENT SCAT 2X3' RED 2" SCAT 3' LONG
1.00 VENT SCAT 2X6' SCAT TUBE X 6 FT
1.00 VENT SCAT 4X16" 4" DIA. RED SCAT HOSE
1.00 EA DYNA BOLT I(O)-540 MOTOR MOUNT BOLT KIT
1.00 BAG 516 RIVET AN426AD3-3.5
1.00 BAG 517 RIVET AN426AD3-4
1.00 BAG 518 RIVET AN426AD4-4
1.00 BAG 519 RIVET AN426AD4-5
1.00 BAG 520 MISC. AN BOLTS
1.00 BAG 521 MISC. WASHERS
1.00 BAG 522-1 MISC. FITTINGS/CLAMPS
1.00 BAG 523-1 FITTINGS/MISC.
1.00 BAG 524 MISC. CLAMPS
1.00 BAG 525-1 MISC/BEARINGS
1.00 BAG 526-1 CABIN HEAT SHUTTLE HW
1.00 PT-062X1/4X24" HIGH PRESSURE
1.00 CT BLK THROTTLE 47.5 10 (I(O)-540)
1.00 CT BLUE VPROP 72.5 10 (I(O)-540)FWD GOV
1.00 CT RED VMIXTURE 51.5 10 (I(O)-540)
1.00 VA-182-PC KIT THR/MIX BKT IO VERT
1.00 VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5
1.00 DOC FF-IO-540 TEXT/DWGS RV-10 F.FWD
1.00 EA EXH 10 I(O)-540 I(O)-540 VETTERMAN
1.00 VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0
end of Van's note
First of all it is good to see that they have switched to teflon/SS hoses for the
fuel and oil lines.
I am not familiar with the "Vibration Isolation Products" engine mount. Is anyone?
It is a division of Pacific Molded Technologies in California. Do you recommend
that I stick with Lord Mounts?
So far it looks like I will stick with Van's hoses and just about everything else
but will drop a couple items. I have another source for a Plane Power alternator
so I will drop it. (They are good alternators and I recommend that you
use them.) I bought an AirFlow oil cooler from Alex and will drop it from the
kit. I still need to make up my mind on the engine mounts and throttle quadrant.
Any other thoughts?
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262432#262432
Message 9
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| Subject: | Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) |
You need to make sure that the SS hoses have the molded file sleeve as part
of the hose when there made. It cost a bit more but very important in the
fwf area for all hoses that pass fluids thru then. I would also make the MAP
hose SS just to make all hoses the same. This is what I did on our Saratoga
and it was worth the cost.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses)
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
While they may be SS covered Teflon, I'm betting that they are not fire
sleeved so take that into account when comparing aftermarkets with Van's.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 11:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses)
I have been reading the posts about engines hoses and wondering about what
to get and what to leave out in Van's FWF kit. Another RV-10 builder
recently got the kit and I noticed that the hoses looked like teflon coated
stainless steel braid. I emailed Van's to find out and this is what they
sent me. Included is the current inventory of the kit.
start of Van's note:
1) The Fuel and Oil lines in the RV-10 Firewall Forward kits
are teflon coated with stainless steel braid.
(2) The Vibration mount we sell are made in the USA by
"Vibration Isolation Products".
(3) I have the list of the RV-10 Firewall Forward kit below for
you.
Best Regards
Van's
FF-10 IO-540 F.WALL FWD.KIT IO-540
3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
2.00 DUCT CBT-5/8 COOLING BLAST TUBE
2.00 EA 4" DUCT HOSE CLAMP 4" HOSE CLAMP
1.00 EA CV HOSE 7545 BREATHER HOSE -540
6.00 EA GASKET 77611 BLO-PROOF EXHST GASKT
4.00 EA DYNA VI I(O)-540 VIB.ISO. RV-10 ONLY
1.00 EA OIL COOLER 20006A OIL COOLER I(O)-540
1.00 ES ALTERNATOR DELUXE 60A KIT W/OV PROTECT
1.00 FAB-360/540 FLTRD A/BOX-360 FI320
1.00 FF-1005 BREATHER TUBE
1.00 IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES
1.00 PROP GOV MT P-860-3 I(O)-540 LYCOMING
1.00 VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5
1.00 VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25
1.00 VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5
1.00 VA-168 SENDER MOUNT
1.00 VA-186 OIL COOLER BOX ASSY.
1.00 VA-187 4" FLANGED DUCT
1.00 VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE 27"
1.00 BAF-10-540 BAFFLE KIT IO-540
1.00 PT-035X1/4X4' LO PRES-BRKE RES.TUBE
1.00 SS304-26GAX1/2X9 SCAT CLAMP !!SHARP!!
1.00 VENT SCAT 2X3' RED 2" SCAT 3' LONG
1.00 VENT SCAT 2X6' SCAT TUBE X 6 FT
1.00 VENT SCAT 4X16" 4" DIA. RED SCAT HOSE
1.00 EA DYNA BOLT I(O)-540 MOTOR MOUNT BOLT KIT
1.00 BAG 516 RIVET AN426AD3-3.5
1.00 BAG 517 RIVET AN426AD3-4
1.00 BAG 518 RIVET AN426AD4-4
1.00 BAG 519 RIVET AN426AD4-5
1.00 BAG 520 MISC. AN BOLTS
1.00 BAG 521 MISC. WASHERS
1.00 BAG 522-1 MISC. FITTINGS/CLAMPS
1.00 BAG 523-1 FITTINGS/MISC.
1.00 BAG 524 MISC. CLAMPS
1.00 BAG 525-1 MISC/BEARINGS
1.00 BAG 526-1 CABIN HEAT SHUTTLE HW
1.00 PT-062X1/4X24" HIGH PRESSURE
1.00 CT BLK THROTTLE 47.5 10 (I(O)-540)
1.00 CT BLUE VPROP 72.5 10 (I(O)-540)FWD GOV
1.00 CT RED VMIXTURE 51.5 10 (I(O)-540)
1.00 VA-182-PC KIT THR/MIX BKT IO VERT
1.00 VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5
1.00 DOC FF-IO-540 TEXT/DWGS RV-10 F.FWD
1.00 EA EXH 10 I(O)-540 I(O)-540 VETTERMAN
1.00 VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0
end of Van's note
First of all it is good to see that they have switched to teflon/SS hoses
for the fuel and oil lines.
I am not familiar with the "Vibration Isolation Products" engine mount. Is
anyone? It is a division of Pacific Molded Technologies in California. Do
you recommend that I stick with Lord Mounts?
So far it looks like I will stick with Van's hoses and just about everything
else but will drop a couple items. I have another source for a Plane Power
alternator so I will drop it. (They are good alternators and I recommend
that you use them.) I bought an AirFlow oil cooler from Alex and will drop
it from the kit. I still need to make up my mind on the engine mounts and
throttle quadrant.
Any other thoughts?
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262432#262432
Message 10
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| Subject: | QB Fuse Question |
Last night, my QB fuse was delivered. It's been a long wait and I'm
excited to get started again.
I haven't removed the floors yet, but hopefully I'll get started on that
later today after I've finished the inventory.
It's pretty obvious that every floor board needs to come out. My
question is specific to the forward most floor boards.
The Landing Gear mount has a leg that goes forward and the foot is
attached to the floor with some bolts. I'm 99% sure that I need to
remove this floor board, but it looks like I have to remove the landing
gear mount to do so. This contradicts their intent, because the landing
gear mount is already torque'd to the center section carry-thru and the
nuts are sealed with Torque Seal.
I can't imagine them going through the trouble to torque the nuts and
apply Torque Seal if they wanted you to remove the landing gear - so you
could ultimately remove the forward floor board.
What have others done? Is it possible to pull the forward floor board
without removing the landing gear mount?
Phil
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuse Question |
I pulled mine. Found some clecos, a couple 12" drill bits,
and I think a pliers or some sort of tool under there.
If you can be assured that yours has no "stuff" under it,
and you don't intend to insulate, you could probably leave
them. I put in 3/4" foam to dampen the sounds coming
off the engine.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Perry, Phil wrote:
> Last night, my QB fuse was delivered. Its been a long wait and Im
> excited to get started again.
>
>
>
> I havent removed the floors yet, but hopefully Ill get started on that
> later today after Ive finished the inventory.
>
>
>
> Its pretty obvious that every floor board needs to come out. My
> question is specific to the forward most floor boards.
>
>
>
> The Landing Gear mount has a leg that goes forward and the foot is
> attached to the floor with some bolts. Im 99% sure that I need to
> remove this floor board, but it looks like I have to remove the landing
> gear mount to do so. This contradicts their intent, because the landing
> gear mount is already torqued to the center section carry-thru and the
> nuts are sealed with Torque Seal.
>
>
>
> I cant imagine them going through the trouble to torque the nuts and
> apply Torque Seal if they wanted you to remove the landing gear so you
> could ultimately remove the forward floor board.
>
>
>
> What have others done? Is it possible to pull the forward floor board
> without removing the landing gear mount?
>
>
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuse Question |
I did not pull mine, but ran a magnet and vacuumed it well.
grumpy
N184JM
do not archive
On Sep 10, 2009, at 3:20 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I pulled mine. Found some clecos, a couple 12" drill bits,
> and I think a pliers or some sort of tool under there.
> If you can be assured that yours has no "stuff" under it,
> and you don't intend to insulate, you could probably leave
> them. I put in 3/4" foam to dampen the sounds coming
> off the engine.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> Perry, Phil wrote:
>> Last night, my QB fuse was delivered. Its been a long wait and
>> Im excited to get started again.
>> I havent removed the floors yet, but hopefully Ill get started on
>> that later today after Ive finished the inventory.
>> Its pretty obvious that every floor board needs to come out. My
>> question is specific to the forward most floor boards.
>> The Landing Gear mount has a leg that goes forward and the foot is
>> attached to the floor with some bolts. Im 99% sure that I need to
>> remove this floor board, but it looks like I have to remove the
>> landing gear mount to do so. This contradicts their intent,
>> because the landing gear mount is already torqued to the center
>> section carry-thru and the nuts are sealed with Torque Seal.
>> I cant imagine them going through the trouble to torque the nuts
>> and apply Torque Seal if they wanted you to remove the landing gear
>> so you could ultimately remove the forward floor board.
>> What have others done? Is it possible to pull the forward floor
>> board without removing the landing gear mount?
>> Phil
>> *
>> *
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) |
1). You want Teflon CORE hoses, not Teflon coated hoses. If the core is
still rubber, like Aeroquip 303 has, they are only good for 5-7 years.
2)You want Silicone firesleeve hoses, not teflon coated. As others have
said, all hoses forward of the firewall that carry fuel or oil should be
firesleeved. External firesleeving almost doubles the diameter and doesn't
look very good as soon as it ages some. Integral firesleeving is a silicone
rubber compound, molded over the stainless braid, which both gives abrasion
protection, as well as fire protection.
Yes, they cost about 15% more. It is well worth it, because they will last
at least the life of the engine.
Parker 124J is one of the common varieties.
Kelly
On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 9:43 AM, nukeflyboy <flymoore@charter.net> wrote:
>
> I have been reading the posts about engines hoses and wondering about what
> to get and what to leave out in Van's FWF kit. Another RV-10 builder
> recently got the kit and I noticed that the hoses looked like teflon coated
> stainless steel braid. I emailed Van's to find out and this is what they
> sent me. Included is the current inventory of the kit.
>
> start of Van's note:
>
> 1) The Fuel and Oil lines in the RV-10 Firewall Forward kits
> are teflon coated with stainless steel braid.
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuse Question |
I was able to vacuum that area by using a piece of soft 1" hose as an extension
on my shop vac. It is also possible to insert insulation from the aft edge of
the floor boards, sliding each piece forward. It helps if you have small hands.
Use the rivet lines on the bottom of the fuselage to make a pattern for each
piece of insulation.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262485#262485
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuse Question |
I pulled the left one and was sorry I did. It was a very difficult job and I was
concerned that I was going to damage something the entire time. I decided not
to remove the right side for that reason. You do have to remove the fasteners
from the gear weldment. I felt as if I was undoing work I had paid to have done.
Van's does not intend for the builder to remove the front floors on the QB.
$.02 worth
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262486#262486
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuse Question |
Sounds like the consensus is to leave it in....
It sure would have been nice if they installed the right rivets to begin
with. :)
They just have a couple dome headed pop-rivets in the dimpled holes to
hold the panels in place. Sounds like I've got a pretty good chance of
having some rivet tails floating around between the belly skin and the
floor board.
That's a little concerning since it could contribute to a control
surface jam later on.
I'm sure I'll figure it out, just like all the folks before me.....
Thanks again everyone.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry [mailto:jimberry@qwest.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 5:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Fuse Question
I was able to vacuum that area by using a piece of soft 1" hose as an
extension on my shop vac. It is also possible to insert insulation from
the aft edge of the floor boards, sliding each piece forward. It helps
if you have small hands. Use the rivet lines on the bottom of the
fuselage to make a pattern for each piece of insulation.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262485#262485
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuse Question |
On my buddies -10 (mine is a slow build) we pulled them, cleaned and
primed underneath them, installed insulation, then riveted them back
in. It really does not tale very long to remove the bolts.....
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 10, 2009, at 7:07 PM, "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
wrote:
>
> Sounds like the consensus is to leave it in....
>
> It sure would have been nice if they installed the right rivets to
> begin
> with. :)
>
> They just have a couple dome headed pop-rivets in the dimpled holes to
> hold the panels in place. Sounds like I've got a pretty good chance
> of
> having some rivet tails floating around between the belly skin and the
> floor board.
>
> That's a little concerning since it could contribute to a control
> surface jam later on.
>
> I'm sure I'll figure it out, just like all the folks before me.....
> Thanks again everyone.
>
> Phil
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Berry [mailto:jimberry@qwest.net]
> Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 5:02 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Fuse Question
>
>
> I was able to vacuum that area by using a piece of soft 1" hose as an
> extension on my shop vac. It is also possible to insert insulation
> from
> the aft edge of the floor boards, sliding each piece forward. It helps
> if you have small hands. Use the rivet lines on the bottom of the
> fuselage to make a pattern for each piece of insulation.
>
> Jim Berry
> 40482
> N15JB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262485#262485
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | QB Fuse Question |
Sounds like maybe I was in the minority. I removed the forward floorboards
(yes it is a pain to get the gear mounts out) but I am glad I was able to i
nspect=2C prime=2C insulate. My motivation was to eliminate any little voi
ce in my head in my flying future reminding me I had not inspected every in
ch of the airframe.
Subject: RV10-List: QB Fuse Question
From: Phil.Perry@netapp.com
Last night=2C my QB fuse was delivered. It=92s been a long wait and I=92m
excited to get started again.
I haven=92t removed the floors yet=2C but hopefully I=92ll get started on t
hat later today after I=92ve finished the inventory.
It=92s pretty obvious that every floor board needs to come out. My questi
on is specific to the forward most floor boards.
The Landing Gear mount has a leg that goes forward and the foot is attached
to the floor with some bolts. I=92m 99% sure that I need to remove this f
loor board=2C but it looks like I have to remove the landing gear mount to
do so. This contradicts their intent=2C because the landing gear mount is
already torque=92d to the center section carry-thru and the nuts are sealed
with Torque Seal.
I can=92t imagine them going through the trouble to torque the nuts and app
ly Torque Seal if they wanted you to remove the landing gear ' so you cou
ld ultimately remove the forward floor board.
What have others done? Is it possible to pull the forward floor board with
out removing the landing gear mount?
Phil
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuse Question |
No front or rear floor rivet debris could cause a control jam; the controls
are not near these areas at all.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 4:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: QB Fuse Question
Sounds like the consensus is to leave it in....
It sure would have been nice if they installed the right rivets to begin
with. :)
They just have a couple dome headed pop-rivets in the dimpled holes to hold
the panels in place. Sounds like I've got a pretty good chance of having
some rivet tails floating around between the belly skin and the floor board.
That's a little concerning since it could contribute to a control surface
jam later on.
I'm sure I'll figure it out, just like all the folks before me.....
Thanks again everyone.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry [mailto:jimberry@qwest.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 5:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Fuse Question
I was able to vacuum that area by using a piece of soft 1" hose as an
extension on my shop vac. It is also possible to insert insulation from the
aft edge of the floor boards, sliding each piece forward. It helps if you
have small hands. Use the rivet lines on the bottom of the fuselage to make
a pattern for each piece of insulation.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262485#262485
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) |
I am not sure if it is in the FWF kit, but I have advocated several times that
you can spend a lot of time and money on hoses and eyeball fittings.
But the big gorilla in the room (or on the firewall) is the heater valve. I strongly
advocate using a SS valve. Just read this piece.
http://www.planeinnovations.com/new%20heater.htm
For about $100 you can trade out the Van's valve for a real fireproof valve of
very high quality
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B Kit - phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262508#262508
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuse Question |
I did not remove the front floor boards either, but worry that there might be some
stuff down there. If I were building over again, I would nut plate the rear
floorboards for inspection/maintenance and smuggling drugs.
Seriously though, at the very least I would install a maintenance plate over the
boarding step bolts. (I did do that)
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B Kit - phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262510#262510
Attachments:
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Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) |
I'll second that. I have a pair and there is no comparison in the quality of
the planeinnovations heater valves and the standard Van's. The valves are in
the fusellage kit- remove them from that order and use the money on SS, it
is worth whatever difference in price there may be.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 6:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses)
>
> I am not sure if it is in the FWF kit, but I have advocated several times
> that you can spend a lot of time and money on hoses and eyeball fittings.
>
> But the big gorilla in the room (or on the firewall) is the heater valve.
> I strongly advocate using a SS valve. Just read this piece.
>
> http://www.planeinnovations.com/new%20heater.htm
>
> For about $100 you can trade out the Van's valve for a real fireproof
> valve of very high quality
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B Kit - phase 1
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262508#262508
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) |
Another option is a fire bottle , dumping Halon for and aft of the baffling
at pilot activation.
SEE http://www.stroudsafety.com/HalonSystems.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 6:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses)
I am not sure if it is in the FWF kit, but I have advocated several times
that you can spend a lot of time and money on hoses and eyeball fittings.
But the big gorilla in the room (or on the firewall) is the heater valve. I
strongly advocate using a SS valve. Just read this piece.
http://www.planeinnovations.com/new%20heater.htm
For about $100 you can trade out the Van's valve for a real fireproof valve
of very high quality
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B Kit - phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262508#262508
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Info and Question on Van's FWF Kit (including hoses) |
Am I missing something? Just cut off the fuel. The fire should go out without fuel.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine & Panel
delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262526#262526
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuse Question |
I did not pull them. Used a strong magnet to move any metal stuff where it can
be removed, and vacuumed. For insulation, I used Abesco FP200 fire rated expansion
foam. I like it so much I'm thinking about using it in other places.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine & Panel
delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262527#262527
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Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuse Question |
I started to do the same and decided to stop..."I felt as if I was
undoing work I had paid to have done". Even more important, the work I
could see looked as good or better than what I was doing. I moved on.
May have been a more critical issue for the earlier serials
Bill Watson 40605
dmaib@me.com wrote:
>
> I pulled the left one and was sorry I did. It was a very difficult job and I
was concerned that I was going to damage something the entire time. I decided
not to remove the right side for that reason. You do have to remove the fasteners
from the gear weldment. I felt as if I was undoing work I had paid to have
done. Van's does not intend for the builder to remove the front floors on the
QB.
>
> $.02 worth
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262486#262486
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuse Question |
Aluminum is non magnetic; strong magnet only moves ferrous metals. A thin
nylon tube tape to the end of a shop vacuum line may get some.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 7:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Fuse Question
--> <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
I did not pull them. Used a strong magnet to move any metal stuff where it
can be removed, and vacuumed. For insulation, I used Abesco FP200 fire rated
expansion foam. I like it so much I'm thinking about using it in other
places.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine &
Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262527#262527
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/abesco_fp200_s_127.jpg
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuse Question |
I had QB fuselage #8 dated 3/2005 and the work was excellent. Filipinos are
by far the best craftsman as a whole in the Asian sub continent.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver
Watson
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: QB Fuse Question
--> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
I started to do the same and decided to stop..."I felt as if I was undoing
work I had paid to have done". Even more important, the work I could see
looked as good or better than what I was doing. I moved on.
May have been a more critical issue for the earlier serials
Bill Watson 40605
dmaib@me.com wrote:
>
> I pulled the left one and was sorry I did. It was a very difficult job and
I was concerned that I was going to damage something the entire time. I
decided not to remove the right side for that reason. You do have to remove
the fasteners from the gear weldment. I felt as if I was undoing work I had
paid to have done. Van's does not intend for the builder to remove the front
floors on the QB.
>
> $.02 worth
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262486#262486
>
>
>
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