Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:11 AM - N410RV and East Coast Mike Seager (DejaVu)
2. 07:27 AM - Re: Attaching door pins (johngoodman)
3. 10:17 AM - dragging brake (David McNeill)
4. 10:21 AM - Re: Las Vegas Trip (Eric_Kallio)
5. 11:00 AM - Re: Re: Attaching door pins - Clarification (Les Kearney)
6. 03:03 PM - Re: Las Vegas Trip (Strasnuts)
7. 03:08 PM - Re: Re: Attaching door pins - Clarification (Dave Leikam)
8. 04:20 PM - Re: Re: Attaching door pins - Clarification (Les Kearney)
9. 06:23 PM - Re: Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
10. 06:42 PM - Re: Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags (David McNeill)
11. 09:14 PM - Re: Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags (Dave Saylor)
12. 10:36 PM - Chicken little flight test school - stalls (AirMike)
13. 11:14 PM - Re: Chicken little flight test school - stalls (Don McDonald)
Message 1
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| Subject: | N410RV and East Coast Mike Seager |
BODY { font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12px; }
Guys,
You may not be aware that N410RV is now based at my airport, 2W6, St
Mary's County, Maryland. Chip Lock has been Van's rep for the East
Coast for a few years. He flew 410RV back to Maryland a few days ago.
Chip also has RV-12 #2 based out of here for demo purposes.
We also have an East Coast Mike Seager, Joe Zac. Joe is flying his
-10 now. You've seen him on this list before. Joe is an airline
pilot, RV-8/10 owner, and CFII. I think he'll be a good asset for
those needing transition training later.
Just passing the words.
Do not archive
Anh
N591VU-flying
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching door pins |
Les,
You said the threads seemed somewhat loose - are you referring to the nut wobbling
on the threads, or the grip part of the bolt wobbling in the hinges? I would
think that a lock nut on an AN bolt would be pretty firm.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine & Panel
delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262697#262697
Message 3
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For about a year I have noticed an intermittent dragging left brake pilot
side. With residual pressure left on the brake, seeps are more easily
developed. I found three in the left side over the year.
after numerous remedies, I called Vans who said that 90% of their dragging
brakes complaints are resolved by loosening and lubricating the pedal
linkage. After loosening the castellated nut and replacing the cotter key
the the friction between the brake pedal and the lower end of the Matco
cylinder had been reduced; the pedal when released move all the way to the
brake off position and did not hold any pressure in the line. Just a heads
up for current builders.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Las Vegas Trip |
Rick, It was 2 line guys, one girl behind the desk, and a lady, probably in her
late 50's, who thought very highly of herself and her opinion, but never seemed
to do anything there as far as work. In fact she couldn't help the three of
us soldiers standing there trying to get a number for a cab. That was beneath
her apparently. So I am not sure what her role was. You had mentioned Lubbock,
which is where I was the night before this incident. Wonderful service and
great people there.
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262710#262710
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching door pins - Clarification |
John
The door pins I am referring to are the RivetHead door pins that contain
magnets. They screw into the end of the C-1011 and C-1012 latch pins. The
C-1011 and C-1012 are the forward / aft tubes that extend into the door
frame when latching.
I have tapped my tubes but the threads seem "loose" although they do hold
properly when the door pins are fully screwed on. Perhaps this is because of
the course nature of the threads.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - living in fibreglass hell
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: September-12-09 8:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Attaching door pins
Les,
You said the threads seemed somewhat loose - are you referring to the nut
wobbling on the threads, or the grip part of the bolt wobbling in the
hinges? I would think that a lock nut on an AN bolt would be pretty firm.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine &
Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262697#262697
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Las Vegas Trip |
I fly a citation into HND now every time I go to Las Vegas. The people there are
so nice and the Jet A is a lot cheaper than LAS. 100LL at VGT is the same
as HND 4.20 SS. LAS is 7.91 [Shocked] They also have a decent restaurant upstairs
at HND.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262724#262724
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching door pins - Clarification |
I have the same RivetHead pins and noticed my threads a bit loose as well.
I used red loctite high strength. They are now very secure.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney@shaw.ca>
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 12:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Attaching door pins - Clarification
>
> John
>
> The door pins I am referring to are the RivetHead door pins that contain
> magnets. They screw into the end of the C-1011 and C-1012 latch pins. The
> C-1011 and C-1012 are the forward / aft tubes that extend into the door
> frame when latching.
>
> I have tapped my tubes but the threads seem "loose" although they do hold
> properly when the door pins are fully screwed on. Perhaps this is because
> of
> the course nature of the threads.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643 - living in fibreglass hell
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
> Sent: September-12-09 8:26 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Attaching door pins
>
>
> Les,
> You said the threads seemed somewhat loose - are you referring to the nut
> wobbling on the threads, or the grip part of the bolt wobbling in the
> hinges? I would think that a lock nut on an AN bolt would be pretty firm.
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine &
> Panel delivery soon.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262697#262697
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching door pins - Clarification |
Hi Dave
Thanks for the info - it is just what I needed. It is good to know that you
had the same experience with the thread looseness as well.
Cheers
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: September-12-09 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Attaching door pins - Clarification
I have the same RivetHead pins and noticed my threads a bit loose as well.
I used red loctite high strength. They are now very secure.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney@shaw.ca>
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 12:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Attaching door pins - Clarification
>
> John
>
> The door pins I am referring to are the RivetHead door pins that contain
> magnets. They screw into the end of the C-1011 and C-1012 latch pins. The
> C-1011 and C-1012 are the forward / aft tubes that extend into the door
> frame when latching.
>
> I have tapped my tubes but the threads seem "loose" although they do hold
> properly when the door pins are fully screwed on. Perhaps this is because
> of
> the course nature of the threads.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643 - living in fibreglass hell
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
> Sent: September-12-09 8:26 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Attaching door pins
>
>
> Les,
> You said the threads seemed somewhat loose - are you referring to the nut
> wobbling on the threads, or the grip part of the bolt wobbling in the
> hinges? I would think that a lock nut on an AN bolt would be pretty firm.
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine &
> Panel delivery soon.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262697#262697
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags |
Yes, Freak'n Fabulous that FAB is.
Dave, I know this will end up with a pretty simple install but I can't
get through the installation directions in SL2-96 which is all that came
with the unit. Table 2 on page 7 of 39 has a table that I'm having
trouble getting past. I can't figure out which one applies... and one
option (that probably doesn't apply) shows a jumper that's required on
the starter switch.
I'm going to get my head wrapped around this at some point but sure
would like to cheat first...
Bill "drinking coffee and looking forward to a full build day" Watson
Dave Saylor wrote:
> Bill,
>
> The SlickStart doesn't really connect to the start switch. It gets
> power from the start relay, and the rest of the wiring is to the mags.
>
> The installation instructions don't even have a diagram, just a
> "connect this wire here" kind of thing. I can get you a copy on
> Monday if you need it. If you're trying to get a jump on the install,
> just run a wire from the start solenoid to the SlickStart, and a
> ground. The rest is pretty easy.
>
> F stands for fab, right?
>
> Dave "always enjoying Bill's tag lines" Saylor
>
> On Fri, Sep 11, 2009 at 3:59 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>>
>
> Does anyone have a wiring diagram for 2 Slick Mags, one with
> retard, Slick Start, and a key switch they'd be willing to share?
> Or something at least close.
>
> Thanks
> Bill "starting the Vetterman exhaust install while still trying to
> finish the F-Air-Box" Watson
> and enjoying a fine NC weekend!
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> --
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
> *
>
>
> *
Message 10
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| Subject: | Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags |
Dave Saylor is correct. Power for the slickstart comes from the cold side of
the starter relay. It only has power when the starter is cranking. All other
wiring is between slickstart terminals and the magneto including ground. I
will be at the hangar tomorrow and look for the instructions. I initially
wired mine incorrectly and it would not start.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver
Watson
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 6:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags
--> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Yes, Freak'n Fabulous that FAB is.
Dave, I know this will end up with a pretty simple install but I can't get
through the installation directions in SL2-96 which is all that came with
the unit. Table 2 on page 7 of 39 has a table that I'm having trouble
getting past. I can't figure out which one applies... and one option (that
probably doesn't apply) shows a jumper that's required on the starter
switch.
I'm going to get my head wrapped around this at some point but sure would
like to cheat first...
Bill "drinking coffee and looking forward to a full build day" Watson
Dave Saylor wrote:
> Bill,
>
> The SlickStart doesn't really connect to the start switch. It gets
> power from the start relay, and the rest of the wiring is to the mags.
>
> The installation instructions don't even have a diagram, just a
> "connect this wire here" kind of thing. I can get you a copy on
> Monday if you need it. If you're trying to get a jump on the install,
> just run a wire from the start solenoid to the SlickStart, and a
> ground. The rest is pretty easy.
>
> F stands for fab, right?
>
> Dave "always enjoying Bill's tag lines" Saylor
>
> On Fri, Sep 11, 2009 at 3:59 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>>
>
> Does anyone have a wiring diagram for 2 Slick Mags, one with
> retard, Slick Start, and a key switch they'd be willing to share?
> Or something at least close.
>
> Thanks
> Bill "starting the Vetterman exhaust install while still trying to
> finish the F-Air-Box" Watson
> and enjoying a fine NC weekend!
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> --
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
> *
>
>
> *
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags |
Bill,
Table 2 sucks. They make it sound like those are all the possible
combinations, but my setup, for example, isn't listed in Table 2. I have
zero impulse couplings, zero start vibrators, one regular mag, and one
retard mag. I wired mine like Figure 3 on page 12 of this version:
b2b.unisonindustries.com/pdf/marketing_literature/SL2-96(E).pdf
I couldn't find anything that talks about a jumper, but if you point it out
I might be able to help clarify that. I suspect that they want it to ground
the other mag during start.
There's another pub from Unison that says not to connect the same SlickStart
to both mags. I guess they found a possible failure that can ground both
mags at the same time, or at least they're guarding against the
possibility. Good insurance, and mine starts fine on one mag.
Dave
On Sat, Sep 12, 2009 at 6:21 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson <
MauleDriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> Yes, Freak'n Fabulous that FAB is.
>
> Dave, I know this will end up with a pretty simple install but I can't get
> through the installation directions in SL2-96 which is all that came with
> the unit. Table 2 on page 7 of 39 has a table that I'm having trouble
> getting past. I can't figure out which one applies... and one option (that
> probably doesn't apply) shows a jumper that's required on the starter
> switch.
>
> I'm going to get my head wrapped around this at some point but sure would
> like to cheat first...
>
> Bill "drinking coffee and looking forward to a full build day" Watson
>
> Dave Saylor wrote:
>
>> Bill,
>>
>> The SlickStart doesn't really connect to the start switch. It gets power
>> from the start relay, and the rest of the wiring is to the mags.
>>
>> The installation instructions don't even have a diagram, just a "connect
>> this wire here" kind of thing. I can get you a copy on Monday if you need
>> it. If you're trying to get a jump on the install, just run a wire from the
>> start solenoid to the SlickStart, and a ground. The rest is pretty easy.
>>
>> F stands for fab, right?
>>
>> Dave "always enjoying Bill's tag lines" Saylor
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 11, 2009 at 3:59 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson <
>> MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>>
>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>>
>>
>> Does anyone have a wiring diagram for 2 Slick Mags, one with
>> retard, Slick Start, and a key switch they'd be willing to share?
>> Or something at least close.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bill "starting the Vetterman exhaust install while still trying to
>> finish the F-Air-Box" Watson
>> and enjoying a fine NC weekend!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters LLC
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>
>
--
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
Message 12
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| Subject: | Chicken little flight test school - stalls |
Getting ready to test envelope doing some stalls in different configurations. I
would appreciate some info on your stall speeds and if your RV10 shows a tendency
to break in either direction (rt or left)
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B Kit - phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262757#262757
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Chicken little flight test school - stalls |
Very tame, even for someone with my limited experience.- Don't have the n
umbers here at home though.
Don McDonald
75 hours and counting.
--- On Sat, 9/12/09, AirMike <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net> wrote:
From: AirMike <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Chicken little flight test school - stalls
Getting ready to test envelope doing some stalls in different configuration
s. I would appreciate some info on your stall speeds and if your RV10 shows
a tendency to break in either direction (rt or left)
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B Kit - phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262757#262757
le, List Admin.
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