Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:55 AM - Re: Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
2. 07:48 AM - Planning Questions (Perry, Phil)
3. 08:06 AM - Re: Planning Questions (Perry, Phil)
4. 09:04 AM - Re: Infinity grip wiring. (Don McDonald)
5. 09:09 AM - Re: Planning Questions (AirMike)
6. 09:40 AM - Re: Planning Questions (Danny Riggs)
7. 10:21 AM - Re: Planning Questions (nukeflyboy)
8. 10:25 AM - Re: Planning Questions (Bob Leffler)
9. 10:40 AM - Re: Planning Questions (David McNeill)
10. 10:51 AM - Re: Re: Planning Questions (David McNeill)
11. 10:51 AM - Re: Planning Questions (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
12. 10:52 AM - Safety wiring the alternator (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
13. 11:12 AM - Re: Safety wiring the alternator (Jack Phillips)
14. 11:43 AM - Re: Safety wiring the alternator (Dave Saylor)
15. 11:44 AM - Re: Infinity grip wiring. (Geoff Combs)
16. 11:54 AM - Re: Safety wiring the alternator (Michael Kraus)
17. 01:09 PM - Aztec baffle for Rv-10 (Pascal)
18. 04:27 PM - Re: Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags (Kelly McMullen)
19. 04:40 PM - Re: Aztec baffle for Rv-10 (Kelly McMullen)
20. 05:00 PM - Do you have a Mac? (Bob Leffler)
21. 05:00 PM - Re: Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
22. 06:14 PM - Re: Safety wiring the alternator (tomhanaway)
23. 07:48 PM - Re: Planning Questions (nukeflyboy)
24. 07:56 PM - New Service bulletin for GNS 480(CNX80) (Sheldon Olesen)
25. 08:00 PM - Re: Infinity grip wiring. (nukeflyboy)
26. 09:25 PM - Re: Planning Questions (AirMike)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags |
Rene, I think you gave me exactly the configuration I need to go with.
Thanks for the key switch function matrix - that's one I didn't have
though I have the wiring diagram and do understand how it should be
wired now.
I'm a bit amazed at the nature of the documentation surrounding the
Slick Start and Mags in general. I'm now aware of 2 distinctly
different service letters, several versions of the Slick Start unit
itself (pin 2 is labeled but gone), and for SL2-96, there's a revision E
and F that are distinctly different. Handling all these legacy setups
in the certified aircraft environment looks really challenging for the
manufacturers.
For anyone with a stock 540 from Vans, with 2 Slick mags (no electronic
ignition), and the standard key switch from Spruce, it appears you need
to add the Slick Start module to the setup (which is not included in the
FWF kit nor with the engine, nor is it doc'd anywhere I've found), and
you need to wire it as described below. At least that's the conclusion
I've come to with a lot of help from quite a few.
Thanks all,
Bill "developing a true fondness for my Lycosaur and its legacy
technologies" Watson
Rene wrote:
>
> OK, I am no expert....but this is my best guess.........
>
> Pin one grounds the Left mag capacitor stud for starting......
> Pin two does nothing
> Pin three provides excitation voltage to the retard breaker whenever the
> starter is engaged.
> Vin powers the unit only when the starter is engaged
> GND ....ground for the unit.
>
> When using a standard off, right, left, both, start.....starter switch, the
> right mag is grounded when the key is in the start position. Note, the note
> to jumper the GND and R... "JUMPER Use when lef mag is retard or breaker mag
> or has impulse coupling." (See install of acs A-510-2 ignition switch.
>
> On back of key switch.
>
> L goes to Left mag capacitor (used to ground left mag)
> LR (Not used)
> R goes to Right mag capacitor (used to ground Right mag)
> S goes to start solenoid
> BO (Not used)
> Bat goes to battery
> GND to ground
>
> I will see if I can dig up the key wiring......I remember seeing it
> somewhere.
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver
> Watson
> Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 8:08 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags
>
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I found this which describes my configuration exactly
> http://alturl.com/dgvt
> The only difference between what is described above and Fig 3 on page 12
> of SL2-96 is the connection of terminal 3 to the "left mag retard
> breaker terminal".
>
> Any thoughts? I'm still staring at this stuff.
>
> Bill "otherwise cruising along with the FWF work" Watson
>
>
> Dave Saylor wrote:
>
>> Bill,
>>
>> Table 2 sucks. They make it sound like those are all the possible
>> combinations, but my setup, for example, isn't listed in Table 2. I
>> have zero impulse couplings, zero start vibrators, one regular mag,
>> and one retard mag. I wired mine like Figure 3 on page 12 of this
>> version:
>>
>> b2b.unisonindustries.com/pdf/marketing_literature/SL2-96(E).pdf
>>
>>
> <http://b2b.unisonindustries.com/pdf/marketing_literature/SL2-96%28E%29.pdf>
>
>> I couldn't find anything that talks about a jumper, but if you point
>> it out I might be able to help clarify that. I suspect that they want
>> it to ground the other mag during start.
>>
>> There's another pub from Unison that says not to connect the same
>> SlickStart to both mags. I guess they found a possible failure that
>> can ground both mags at the same time, or at least they're guarding
>> against the possibility. Good insurance, and mine starts fine on one mag.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> On Sat, Sep 12, 2009 at 6:21 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>>
>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>>
>>
>> Yes, Freak'n Fabulous that FAB is.
>>
>> Dave, I know this will end up with a pretty simple install but I
>> can't get through the installation directions in SL2-96 which is
>> all that came with the unit. Table 2 on page 7 of 39 has a table
>> that I'm having trouble getting past. I can't figure out which
>> one applies... and one option (that probably doesn't apply) shows
>> a jumper that's required on the starter switch.
>>
>> I'm going to get my head wrapped around this at some point but
>> sure would like to cheat first...
>>
>> Bill "drinking coffee and looking forward to a full build day" Watson
>>
>> Dave Saylor wrote:
>>
>> Bill,
>>
>> The SlickStart doesn't really connect to the start switch. It
>> gets power from the start relay, and the rest of the wiring is
>> to the mags.
>>
>> The installation instructions don't even have a diagram, just
>> a "connect this wire here" kind of thing. I can get you a
>> copy on Monday if you need it. If you're trying to get a jump
>> on the install, just run a wire from the start solenoid to the
>> SlickStart, and a ground. The rest is pretty easy.
>>
>> F stands for fab, right?
>>
>> Dave "always enjoying Bill's tag lines" Saylor
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 11, 2009 at 3:59 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>> <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>>>
>> wrote:
>>
>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>> <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>>>
>>
>> Does anyone have a wiring diagram for 2 Slick Mags, one with
>> retard, Slick Start, and a key switch they'd be willing to
>> share?
>> Or something at least close.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bill "starting the Vetterman exhaust install while still
>> trying to
>> finish the F-Air-Box" Watson
>> and enjoying a fine NC weekend!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters LLC
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters LLC
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Planning Questions |
Now that my QB fuse arrived last week, I'm starting to get my mind
around some of the systems and how I would like to lay them out.
I've got a couple of nagging questions.
1) Electrical - Has anyone developed any creative routes for the
wire runs? Or is everyone stilling with the four =BE" holes (2 per
side) under the mid-fuse deck.
2) Fuel - Why is everyone choosing the Andair fuel valve? Where's
the best place to pick one up?
3) O2 - I was thinking of putting an O2 bottle in the baggage
compartment and then routing the lines into the Overhead Console from
the rear. Then I could put a quick connect over each seat. Is that
acceptable? Do they just hang in your face? I'm just trying to save as
much room as I can with this routing, so I can save the space inside the
=BE" holes mentioned in #1.
Thanks,
Phil
Message 3
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| Subject: | Planning Questions |
Won day eye wheel learn how two type.
Corrections made below.
From: Perry, Phil
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 9:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Planning Questions
Now that my QB fuse arrived last week, I'm starting to get my mind
around some of the systems and how I would like to lay them out.
I've got a couple of nagging questions.
1) Electrical - Has anyone developed any creative routes for the
wire runs? Or is everyone sticking with the four =BE" holes (2 per
side) under the mid-fuse deck.
2) Fuel - Why is everyone choosing the Andair fuel valve? Where's
the best place to pick one up?
3) O2 - I was thinking of putting an O2 bottle in the baggage
compartment and then routing the lines into the Overhead Console from
the rear. Then I could put a quick connect over each seat. Is that
acceptable? Do they just hang in your face? I'm just trying to save as
much room as I can with this routing, so I can save the space inside the
=BE" holes mentioned in #1.
Thanks,
Phil
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip wiring. |
Geoff, here's what I did... really simple.
Don McDonald
--- On Sun, 9/13/09, aerosport1 <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com> wrote:
From: aerosport1 <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Infinity grip wiring.
m>
I am looking for some good ways to simplify the wiring between the Infinity
grips, Trim servos, Efis display and safety trim. I have seen some photos
that showed using sub D plugs or other types that had a junction box or str
ip under the seats. Any help or ideas out there. Photos would be
great.
Thanks Geoff
N829GW
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Finishing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262837#262837
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Planning Questions |
Wiring runs are a big deal as is the static line run going from the rear to the
panel. Van's pre-wire kit is a pretty good purchase at this point or at least
install the #2 wire from the battery/s to the firewall. I also like the idea
of installing the static line. Installed a few of the Van's conduits from the
rear to the panel area. Put some pull tapes in the conduit to pull thru future
wires. Remember the stuff that is in the aft area like the AHARS or Magnetometer,
battery, Strobe system controller, aft strobes and antenna wires for Nav,
and Com. Do not worry too much as your conduit will help if you forget anything.
I also like the idea of an inspection port for the boarding step (see prior post)
or to just nut plate the rear panels.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B Kit - phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262955#262955
Message 6
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| Subject: | Planning Questions |
I ended up with three holes on the right side and they are packed full of w
ire. For some reason I got more running down the right side. If you plan be
tter than I did then you'll probably do okay with just 4 holes. The Andair
valve is a superb piece of equipment. No comparison. The one supplied in th
e kit doesn't look in the same league. The valve is the one thing (okay=2C
one of several) that I want to work perfectly every time. Dan
Subject: RV10-List: Planning Questions
From: Phil.Perry@netapp.com
Now that my QB fuse arrived last week=2C I=92m starting to get my mind arou
nd some of the systems and how I would like to lay them out.
I=92ve got a couple of nagging questions.
1) Electrical ' Has anyone developed any creative routes for the wir
e runs? Or is everyone stilling with the four =BE=94 holes (2 per side) un
der the mid-fuse deck.
2) Fuel ' Why is everyone choosing the Andair fuel valve? Where=92s
the best place to pick one up?
3) O2 ' I was thinking of putting an O2 bottle in the baggage compar
tment and then routing the lines into the Overhead Console from the rear.
Then I could put a quick connect over each seat. Is that acceptable? Do t
hey just hang in your face? I=92m just trying to save as much room as I ca
n with this routing=2C so I can save the space inside the =BE=94 holes ment
ioned in #1.
Thanks=2C
Phil
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Planning Questions |
Your best best on the wiring runs is to plan ahead. Figure out your distribution
scheme and how many wires you will need to run fore and aft. Then try to separate
your power wires from your antenna/headset cables (left side - right side,
for example). Keep any other sensitive systems away from strobe power supplies
too. Once you have that figured out use all the holes in the fuselage
and then drill some more. Protect the wires with grommets.
There is nothing wrong with the supplied fuel valve. Mine has worked just fine
for 10 years. A lot of folks get the Andair valve just because they like it.
Your idea on the O2 will work just fine. The bottle can be mounted in the baggage
compartment with a short jumper to a bulkhead fitting into a side panel (not
the baggage bulkhead - it needs to be removable). Mountain High has the tubing
and fittings to run the connections anywhere while keeping them out of sight
behind the side panels or in the overhead console. Other suppliers probably
have the same.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262968#262968
Message 8
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| Subject: | Planning Questions |
Phil,
1. I have one =BE=94 and one 1 =BC=94 conduit on each side going
to the
back. I also have one =BE=94 on each side going to underneath the rear
seats
for comm antennas. This
<http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rleffler&project=260&
categor
y=0&log=87585&row=1> picture is on mykitlog site.
2. Because of known issues with the standard Van=92s valve.
Unfortunately, the best place to get them is direct from Andair. ACS
doesn=92t stock them, but they will special order. The extender costs
two
arms and a leg. They change about an extra $100 for the extender.
3. That would work. Another alternative is to put one of Geoff
Combs=92 Caron Fiber Center Arm Rest Consoles. He has a place inside
the
arm rest that you can put headset and oxygen jacks with the cables
coming
out at your waist. I think it solves both problems. Geoff=92s website
should be online later this week. Email me if you want more details.
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 10:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Planning Questions
Now that my QB fuse arrived last week, I=92m starting to get my mind
around
some of the systems and how I would like to lay them out.
I=92ve got a couple of nagging questions.
1) Electrical ' Has anyone developed any creative routes for the
wire
runs? Or is everyone stilling with the four =BE=94 holes (2 per side)
under the
mid-fuse deck.
2) Fuel ' Why is everyone choosing the Andair fuel valve?
Where=92s the
best place to pick one up?
3) O2 ' I was thinking of putting an O2 bottle in the baggage
compartment and then routing the lines into the Overhead Console from
the
rear. Then I could put a quick connect over each seat. Is that
acceptable?
Do they just hang in your face? I=92m just trying to save as much room
as I
can with this routing, so I can save the space inside the =BE=94 holes
mentioned
in #1.
Thanks,
Phil
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Planning Questions |
If you decide to roll your own electrical system, you might consider the
following guidelines
(1) standardize on a limited number of wire sizes,; this will result in
some
wires carrying less than they could but will simplify your purchase of
pieces in larger quantities. For example everyone is going to need about
20-25 ft of 002 gauge wire for the runs from the starting battery(ies).
Other gauges can be purchased in 100 -500 ft lengths. I used 002, 8 14,
20,
shielded 22 in triplets or quads.
(2) I chose to run DC down the left side of the aircraft and digital
data
down the right; obviously there were some exceptions due to location of
the
devices.
(3) For current or future use , both a primary and essential bus should
be
planned. B&C specialty provides power diodes for separation.
(4) For simplicity, each appliance can be controlled by a pull able or
toggle breaker. Its a little more expensive but putting multiple devices
per
breaker and introducing additional switches limits flexibility and
increase
complication. It also makes troubleshooting more strait forward.
(5) Buy/borrow the necessary tools and buy the quality and quantity of
terminals, butt connectors , dsub pins, etc.
(6) when using connectors and multiple shielded wires, triplets for
example,
document the use of each colored wire in each set of triplets.
(7) I have attached a picture of my primary and essential buses with
connecting 35A toggle breaker and power diode.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 9:37 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Planning Questions
I ended up with three holes on the right side and they are packed full
of
wire. For some reason I got more running down the right side. If you
plan
better than I did then you'll probably do okay with just 4 holes. The
Andair
valve is a superb piece of equipment. No comparison. The one supplied in
the
kit doesn't look in the same league. The valve is the one thing (okay,
one
of several) that I want to work perfectly every time. Dan
_____
Subject: RV10-List: Planning Questions
From: Phil.Perry@netapp.com
Now that my QB fuse arrived last week, I=92m starting to get my mind
around
some of the systems and how I would like to lay them out.
I=92ve got a couple of nagging questions.
1) Electrical ' Has anyone developed any creative routes for the
wire
runs? Or is everyone stilling with the four =BE=94 holes (2 per side)
under the
mid-fuse deck.
2) Fuel ' Why is everyone choosing the Andair fuel valve?
Where=92s the
best place to pick one up?
3) O2 ' I was thinking of putting an O2 bottle in the baggage
compartment and then routing the lines into the Overhead Console from
the
rear. Then I could put a quick connect over each seat. Is that
acceptable?
Do they just hang in your face? I=92m just trying to save as much room
as I
can with this routing, so I can save the space inside the =BE=94 holes
mentioned
in #1.
Thanks,
Phil
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
_____
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Li/' target='_new'>Sign up
now.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Planning Questions |
Watch the weight of the O2 system going aft of the baggage cutoff; unless
you have some significant weight forward you will probably run out of aft CG
when loading all seats. Consider an extra battery on the firewall, heaviest
prop. etc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 10:20 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Planning Questions
Your best best on the wiring runs is to plan ahead. Figure out your
distribution scheme and how many wires you will need to run fore and aft.
Then try to separate your power wires from your antenna/headset cables (left
side - right side, for example). Keep any other sensitive systems away from
strobe power supplies too. Once you have that figured out use all the holes
in the fuselage and then drill some more. Protect the wires with grommets.
There is nothing wrong with the supplied fuel valve. Mine has worked just
fine for 10 years. A lot of folks get the Andair valve just because they
like it.
Your idea on the O2 will work just fine. The bottle can be mounted in the
baggage compartment with a short jumper to a bulkhead fitting into a side
panel (not the baggage bulkhead - it needs to be removable). Mountain High
has the tubing and fittings to run the connections anywhere while keeping
them out of sight behind the side panels or in the overhead console. Other
suppliers probably have the same.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262968#262968
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Planning Questions |
Wiring wise, what I did was get a copy of the Van's wiring kit and parts
list, use their plan as a starting point. Since I did a 2 batt, 2 alt,
Z-14, I basically doubled the Vans plan. Then laid in 2 empty conduits
that I couldn't figure out how to use. They are both now in use since
installing a GRT AHRS, Magnetometer, re-running the static line, and
other misc decisions. The Van's plans keep turning out to be extremely
valuable for this newbie - used it last night for FWF wiring ideas.
For electrical, buy an assortment of Adel clamps and those plastic
grommets. Beats trying to anticipate your next design decision.
I think I'll regret not putting in access doors for the steps. I bought
2 extra access hatch kits (for the stall warning access) to do the job
but got lazy. Look at Vans Strobe power supply kit and AHRS kit for easy
installation of those things back by the battery.
The Andair valve is REAL NICE in all respects; except, it may not be
easy to get exactly what you want, when you want it from the
manufacturer. They're a bit sluggish. You have to do some designing and
thinking around the valve though.
Bill "working but dreaming of building" Watson
40605
Perry, Phil wrote:
>
> Now that my QB fuse arrived last week, Im starting to get my mind
> around some of the systems and how I would like to lay them out.
>
> Ive got a couple of nagging questions.
>
> 1) Electrical Has anyone developed any creative routes for the wire
> runs? Or is everyone stilling with the four holes (2 per side)
> under the mid-fuse deck.
>
> 2) Fuel Why is everyone choosing the Andair fuel valve? Wheres the
> best place to pick one up?
>
> 3) O2 I was thinking of putting an O2 bottle in the baggage
> compartment and then routing the lines into the Overhead Console from
> the rear. Then I could put a quick connect over each seat. Is that
> acceptable? Do they just hang in your face? Im just trying to save as
> much room as I can with this routing, so I can save the space inside
> the holes mentioned in #1.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Phil
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 12
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| Subject: | Safety wiring the alternator |
I'm fitting up the alternator and it's belt tensioning bracket (a 40amp
from B&C). The bolts are drilled for safety wire but the 2 bolts are
like 8" apart. Do I just run the safety wire between the 2 bolts?
Seems long but there are no other obvious tie-off points.
Bill "FWF" Watson
Message 13
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| Subject: | Safety wiring the alternator |
Shouldn't be a problem. Just get good twist on the wires. There are
several places on my RV-4 with that large a gap in the safety wire. I
assume the bolts are going into threads on the mount? If nuts are used,
just use locknuts (all-metal, due to temperature considerations in the
engine compartment).
Jack Phillips
#40610
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver
Watson
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 1:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Safety wiring the alternator
<MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
I'm fitting up the alternator and it's belt tensioning bracket (a 40amp
from B&C). The bolts are drilled for safety wire but the 2 bolts are
like 8" apart. Do I just run the safety wire between the 2 bolts?
Seems long but there are no other obvious tie-off points.
Bill "FWF" Watson
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Safety wiring the alternator |
I usually put a 1/16" hole in the bracket to tie the other end of the safety
wire to.
Dave
On Mon, Sep 14, 2009 at 10:50 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson <
MauleDriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I'm fitting up the alternator and it's belt tensioning bracket (a 40amp
> from B&C). The bolts are drilled for safety wire but the 2 bolts are like
> 8" apart. Do I just run the safety wire between the 2 bolts? Seems long
> but there are no other obvious tie-off points.
>
> Bill "FWF" Watson
>
>
--
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
Message 15
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| Subject: | Infinity grip wiring. |
Thanks Don
That looks like the way to go. I was heading down that path as well.
Geoff
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Infinity grip wiring.
Geoff, here's what I did... really simple.
Don McDonald
--- On Sun, 9/13/09, aerosport1 <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com> wrote:
From: aerosport1 <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Infinity grip wiring.
<g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com
<http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=g.combs@aerosportmodeling
.com>
>
I am looking for some good ways to simplify the wiring between the
Infinity
grips, Trim servos, Efis display and safety trim. I have seen some
photos
that showed using sub D plugs or other types that had a junction box or
strip under the seats. Any help or ideas out there. Photos would be
great.
Thanks Geoff
N829GW
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Finishing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/vibsp;
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=262837#262837> -->
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> http://foru -
List Contribution We -Matt Dralle, Listm/contribution"
target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Safety wiring the alternator |
I drilled small holes in the large steel arm holding the alternator
and used shorter safety wire runs....
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 14, 2009, at 2:01 PM, "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
wrote:
> >
>
> Shouldn't be a problem. Just get good twist on the wires. There are
> several places on my RV-4 with that large a gap in the safety wire. I
> assume the bolts are going into threads on the mount? If nuts are
> used,
> just use locknuts (all-metal, due to temperature considerations in the
> engine compartment).
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610
> Wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> Mauledriver
> Watson
> Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 1:50 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Safety wiring the alternator
>
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I'm fitting up the alternator and it's belt tensioning bracket (a
> 40amp
> from B&C). The bolts are drilled for safety wire but the 2 bolts are
> like 8" apart. Do I just run the safety wire between the 2 bolts?
> Seems long but there are no other obvious tie-off points.
>
> Bill "FWF" Watson
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Aztec baffle for Rv-10 |
I am getting an overhauled Aztec Engine (IO-540-C4B5.) and it comes with
the baffles. Anyone know if I can use the baffles from the Aztec on a
RV-10 even if it meant doing modifications?
thanks!
Pascal
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags |
You arrive at this goofy situation, because the certified aircraft the
RV-10 engine is derived from, the Comanche 250/260, AFAIK, came with
Bendix mags and Bendix vibrator, for "shower of sparks" setup. After
Lycoming became a division of Textron, it just wouldn't do to purchase
magnetos from a division of Teledyne Continental...Bendix.
So they had to switch to Unison Slick. There are enough differences,
that when Unison came out with SlickStart, they had to make a separate
Bendix version to use with Bendix mags. My understanding is the Bendix
version is no longer made. You do have the option of getting the
appropriate Bendix vibrator, instead of the Slick Start...but not a
lot cheaper. Probably more history than you wanted.
On Mon, Sep 14, 2009 at 6:54 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
<MauleDriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
I'm now aware of 2 distinctly different
> service letters, several versions of the Slick Start unit itself (pin 2 is
> labeled but gone), and for SL2-96, there's a revision E and F that are
> distinctly different. Handling all these legacy setups in the certified
> aircraft environment looks really challenging for the manufacturers.
>
> For anyone with a stock 540 from Vans, with 2 Slick mags (no electronic
> ignition), and the standard key switch from Spruce, it appears you need to
> add the Slick Start module to the setup (which is not included in the FWF
> kit nor with the engine, nor is it doc'd anywhere I've found), and you need
> to wire it as described below. At least that's the conclusion I've come to
> with a lot of help from quite a few.
>
> Thanks all,
> Bill "developing a true fondness for my Lycosaur and its legacy
> technologies" Watson
>
> Rene wrote:
>>
>>
>> OK, I am no expert....but this is my best guess.........
>>
>> Pin one grounds the Left mag capacitor stud for starting......
>> Pin two does nothing
>> Pin three provides excitation voltage to the retard breaker whenever the
>> starter is engaged.
>> Vin powers the unit only when the starter is engaged
>> GND ....ground for the unit.
>>
>> When using a standard off, right, left, both, start.....starter switch,
>> the
>> right mag is grounded when the key is in the start position. Note, the
>> note
>> to jumper the GND and R... "JUMPER Use when lef mag is retard or breaker
>> mag
>> or has impulse coupling." (See install of acs A-510-2 ignition switch.
>>
>> On back of key switch.
>>
>> L goes to Left mag capacitor (used to ground left mag)
>> LR (Not used)
>> R goes to Right mag capacitor (used to ground Right mag)
>> S goes to start solenoid
>> BO (Not used)
>> Bat goes to battery
>> GND to ground
>>
>> I will see if I can dig up the key wiring......I remember seeing it
>> somewhere.
>>
>> Rene'
>> 801-721-6080
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
>> Mauledriver
>> Watson
>> Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 8:08 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags
>>
>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>>
>> I found this which describes my configuration exactly
>> http://alturl.com/dgvt
>> The only difference between what is described above and Fig 3 on page 12
>> of SL2-96 is the connection of terminal 3 to the "left mag retard breaker
>> terminal".
>>
>> Any thoughts? I'm still staring at this stuff.
>>
>> Bill "otherwise cruising along with the FWF work" Watson
>>
>>
>> Dave Saylor wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Bill,
>>>
>>> Table 2 sucks. They make it sound like those are all the possible
>>> combinations, but my setup, for example, isn't listed in Table 2. I have
>>> zero impulse couplings, zero start vibrators, one regular mag, and one
>>> retard mag. I wired mine like Figure 3 on page 12 of this version:
>>>
>>> b2b.unisonindustries.com/pdf/marketing_literature/SL2-96(E).pdf
>>>
>>
>>
>> <http://b2b.unisonindustries.com/pdf/marketing_literature/SL2-96%28E%29.pdf>
>>
>>>
>>> I couldn't find anything that talks about a jumper, but if you point it
>>> out I might be able to help clarify that. I suspect that they want it to
>>> ground the other mag during start.
>>>
>>> There's another pub from Unison that says not to connect the same
>>> SlickStart to both mags. I guess they found a possible failure that can
>>> ground both mags at the same time, or at least they're guarding against the
>>> possibility. Good insurance, and mine starts fine on one mag.
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>> On Sat, Sep 12, 2009 at 6:21 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
>>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>>
>>>
>>> Yes, Freak'n Fabulous that FAB is.
>>>
>>> Dave, I know this will end up with a pretty simple install but I
>>> can't get through the installation directions in SL2-96 which is
>>> all that came with the unit. Table 2 on page 7 of 39 has a table
>>> that I'm having trouble getting past. I can't figure out which
>>> one applies... and one option (that probably doesn't apply) shows
>>> a jumper that's required on the starter switch.
>>>
>>> I'm going to get my head wrapped around this at some point but
>>> sure would like to cheat first...
>>>
>>> Bill "drinking coffee and looking forward to a full build day" Watson
>>>
>>> Dave Saylor wrote:
>>>
>>> Bill,
>>>
>>> The SlickStart doesn't really connect to the start switch. It
>>> gets power from the start relay, and the rest of the wiring is
>>> to the mags.
>>>
>>> The installation instructions don't even have a diagram, just
>>> a "connect this wire here" kind of thing. I can get you a
>>> copy on Monday if you need it. If you're trying to get a jump
>>> on the install, just run a wire from the start solenoid to the
>>> SlickStart, and a ground. The rest is pretty easy.
>>>
>>> F stands for fab, right?
>>>
>>> Dave "always enjoying Bill's tag lines" Saylor
>>>
>>> On Fri, Sep 11, 2009 at 3:59 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
>>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>>> <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>>>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>>> <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>>>
>>>
>>> Does anyone have a wiring diagram for 2 Slick Mags, one with
>>> retard, Slick Start, and a key switch they'd be willing to
>>> share?
>>> Or something at least close.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Bill "starting the Vetterman exhaust install while still
>>> trying to
>>> finish the F-Air-Box" Watson
>>> and enjoying a fine NC weekend!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> ==========
>>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> le, List Admin.
>>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- Dave Saylor
>>> AirCrafters LLC
>>> 140 Aviation Way
>>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> ==========
>>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> le, List Admin.
>>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Dave Saylor
>>> AirCrafters LLC
>>> 140 Aviation Way
>>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Aztec baffle for Rv-10 |
I wouldn't bank on it. Baffling above the engine is made to fit the
specific cowling. The Aztec cowl is very bulbous, compared to the RV
cowl. If you don't mind doing a LOT of cutting and fitting, you could
do it, but not a real productive use of your time.
You can of course use the intercylinder baffles on the bottom of the cylinders.
On Mon, Sep 14, 2009 at 12:57 PM, Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
> I am getting an overhauled Aztec Engine (IO-540-C4B5.) and it comes with the
> baffles. Anyone know if I can use the baffles from the Aztec on a RV-10 even
> if it meant doing modifications?
> thanks!
>
> Pascal
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Do you have a Mac? |
I need to find a couple folks to test a new RV-10 related site. We've come
across an issue and need to validate whether or not it's a common Mac issue
or localized to one user. If you have a Mac, want to get a sneak peak,
and help us identify this issue, please email me off list.
Thanks,
Bob
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags |
No, the more you know, the more you understand.
do not archive
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> You arrive at this goofy situation, because the certified aircraft the
> RV-10 engine is derived from, the Comanche 250/260, AFAIK, came with
> Bendix mags and Bendix vibrator, for "shower of sparks" setup. After
> Lycoming became a division of Textron, it just wouldn't do to purchase
> magnetos from a division of Teledyne Continental...Bendix.
> So they had to switch to Unison Slick. There are enough differences,
> that when Unison came out with SlickStart, they had to make a separate
> Bendix version to use with Bendix mags. My understanding is the Bendix
> version is no longer made. You do have the option of getting the
> appropriate Bendix vibrator, instead of the Slick Start...but not a
> lot cheaper. Probably more history than you wanted.
>
> On Mon, Sep 14, 2009 at 6:54 AM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> I'm now aware of 2 distinctly different
>
>> service letters, several versions of the Slick Start unit itself (pin 2 is
>> labeled but gone), and for SL2-96, there's a revision E and F that are
>> distinctly different. Handling all these legacy setups in the certified
>> aircraft environment looks really challenging for the manufacturers.
>>
>> For anyone with a stock 540 from Vans, with 2 Slick mags (no electronic
>> ignition), and the standard key switch from Spruce, it appears you need to
>> add the Slick Start module to the setup (which is not included in the FWF
>> kit nor with the engine, nor is it doc'd anywhere I've found), and you need
>> to wire it as described below. At least that's the conclusion I've come to
>> with a lot of help from quite a few.
>>
>> Thanks all,
>> Bill "developing a true fondness for my Lycosaur and its legacy
>> technologies" Watson
>>
>> Rene wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> OK, I am no expert....but this is my best guess.........
>>>
>>> Pin one grounds the Left mag capacitor stud for starting......
>>> Pin two does nothing
>>> Pin three provides excitation voltage to the retard breaker whenever the
>>> starter is engaged.
>>> Vin powers the unit only when the starter is engaged
>>> GND ....ground for the unit.
>>>
>>> When using a standard off, right, left, both, start.....starter switch,
>>> the
>>> right mag is grounded when the key is in the start position. Note, the
>>> note
>>> to jumper the GND and R... "JUMPER Use when lef mag is retard or breaker
>>> mag
>>> or has impulse coupling." (See install of acs A-510-2 ignition switch.
>>>
>>> On back of key switch.
>>>
>>> L goes to Left mag capacitor (used to ground left mag)
>>> LR (Not used)
>>> R goes to Right mag capacitor (used to ground Right mag)
>>> S goes to start solenoid
>>> BO (Not used)
>>> Bat goes to battery
>>> GND to ground
>>>
>>> I will see if I can dig up the key wiring......I remember seeing it
>>> somewhere.
>>>
>>> Rene'
>>> 801-721-6080
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
>>> Mauledriver
>>> Watson
>>> Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 8:08 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wiring diagram for Slick Start with 2 Slick Mags
>>>
>>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>>>
>>> I found this which describes my configuration exactly
>>> http://alturl.com/dgvt
>>> The only difference between what is described above and Fig 3 on page 12
>>> of SL2-96 is the connection of terminal 3 to the "left mag retard breaker
>>> terminal".
>>>
>>> Any thoughts? I'm still staring at this stuff.
>>>
>>> Bill "otherwise cruising along with the FWF work" Watson
>>>
>>>
>>> Dave Saylor wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> Bill,
>>>>
>>>> Table 2 sucks. They make it sound like those are all the possible
>>>> combinations, but my setup, for example, isn't listed in Table 2. I have
>>>> zero impulse couplings, zero start vibrators, one regular mag, and one
>>>> retard mag. I wired mine like Figure 3 on page 12 of this version:
>>>>
>>>> b2b.unisonindustries.com/pdf/marketing_literature/SL2-96(E).pdf
>>>>
>>>>
>>> <http://b2b.unisonindustries.com/pdf/marketing_literature/SL2-96%28E%29.pdf>
>>>
>>>
>>>> I couldn't find anything that talks about a jumper, but if you point it
>>>> out I might be able to help clarify that. I suspect that they want it to
>>>> ground the other mag during start.
>>>>
>>>> There's another pub from Unison that says not to connect the same
>>>> SlickStart to both mags. I guess they found a possible failure that can
>>>> ground both mags at the same time, or at least they're guarding against the
>>>> possibility. Good insurance, and mine starts fine on one mag.
>>>>
>>>> Dave
>>>>
>>>> On Sat, Sep 12, 2009 at 6:21 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
>>>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>>
>>>>
>>>> Yes, Freak'n Fabulous that FAB is.
>>>>
>>>> Dave, I know this will end up with a pretty simple install but I
>>>> can't get through the installation directions in SL2-96 which is
>>>> all that came with the unit. Table 2 on page 7 of 39 has a table
>>>> that I'm having trouble getting past. I can't figure out which
>>>> one applies... and one option (that probably doesn't apply) shows
>>>> a jumper that's required on the starter switch.
>>>>
>>>> I'm going to get my head wrapped around this at some point but
>>>> sure would like to cheat first...
>>>>
>>>> Bill "drinking coffee and looking forward to a full build day" Watson
>>>>
>>>> Dave Saylor wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Bill,
>>>>
>>>> The SlickStart doesn't really connect to the start switch. It
>>>> gets power from the start relay, and the rest of the wiring is
>>>> to the mags.
>>>>
>>>> The installation instructions don't even have a diagram, just
>>>> a "connect this wire here" kind of thing. I can get you a
>>>> copy on Monday if you need it. If you're trying to get a jump
>>>> on the install, just run a wire from the start solenoid to the
>>>> SlickStart, and a ground. The rest is pretty easy.
>>>>
>>>> F stands for fab, right?
>>>>
>>>> Dave "always enjoying Bill's tag lines" Saylor
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Sep 11, 2009 at 3:59 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson
>>>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>>>> <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>>>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>>>> <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>>>
>>>>
>>>> Does anyone have a wiring diagram for 2 Slick Mags, one with
>>>> retard, Slick Start, and a key switch they'd be willing to
>>>> share?
>>>> Or something at least close.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks
>>>> Bill "starting the Vetterman exhaust install while still
>>>> trying to
>>>> finish the F-Air-Box" Watson
>>>> and enjoying a fine NC weekend!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ==========
>>>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>> ==========
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>>> ==========
>>>> le, List Admin.
>>>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>> ==========
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -- Dave Saylor
>>>> AirCrafters LLC
>>>> 140 Aviation Way
>>>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>>>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>>>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ==========
>>>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>> ==========
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>>> ==========
>>>> le, List Admin.
>>>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>> ==========
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Dave Saylor
>>>> AirCrafters LLC
>>>> 140 Aviation Way
>>>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>>>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>>>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Safety wiring the alternator |
Drilled #40 holes in the arm about 2" from the bolt. Just did it this past weekend.
Tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263063#263063
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Planning Questions |
Here are a couple photos to show what I said earlier. The blue tubing is for oxygen.
Bulkhead fittings are used for plug-in points. The bottle sits on the
baggage compartment floor and connects with its own bulkhead fitting. The bottle
is portable for ease of filling and for use in the 6.
Separate your wires to minimize interference and run them where ever you need to.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
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Message 24
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| Subject: | New Service bulletin for GNS 480(CNX80) |
I got this email from Garmin today and I thought I would pass it along.
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 108 hrs
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip wiring. |
I used a D-sub connector. This area tends to collect dirt with time so if you
use the terminal strip then consider covering it in some way. Connectors are
less susceptible to environmental contamination.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
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Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Planning Questions |
I forgot to mention one item that made my wiring much neater and easier to manage.
That product is "Click Bond" - the small zip tie attach points are an awesome
product. I spent about $100 on the very pricy attach points - worth every
cent. If they are good enough for Boeing and Northrop - they are good enuf for
me.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B Kit - phase 1
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