Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:54 AM - Re: A new builder on the block (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
2. 05:54 AM - Ray Allen trim indicator failures (Kevin Belue)
3. 05:59 AM - Re: Same basement, different project...how time flies (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
4. 06:08 AM - Re: RV10 Mark 1 Door Interlock (johngoodman)
5. 06:20 AM - Re: Ray Allen trim indicator failures (Tim Olson)
6. 06:24 AM - Re: Ray Allen trim indicator failures (Ralph E. Capen)
7. 07:49 AM - Re: Ray Allen trim indicator failures (Kevin Belue)
8. 07:50 AM - Annual (Fred Williams, M.D.)
9. 08:15 AM - Re: A new builder on the block (MikeInIrving)
10. 08:23 AM - AP (Jim)
11. 08:24 AM - Re: Re: A new builder on the block (Jim)
12. 08:41 AM - Re: skin pimples (Vernon Smith)
13. 08:54 AM - Re: Annual (Strasnuts)
14. 09:07 AM - Re: Re: A new builder on the block (Tim Olson)
15. 09:07 AM - Re: Ray Allen trim indicator failures (Perry, Phil)
16. 09:21 AM - Re: Re: A new builder on the block (Robin Marks)
17. 09:21 AM - Re: Re: A new builder on the block (Kelly McMullen)
18. 09:21 AM - Re: Re: Annual (Kelly McMullen)
19. 09:36 AM - Re: Re: Annual - carbon fiber layup in doors (Bob and Karen Brown)
20. 10:09 AM - Foam Door Seal Details (Dave Saylor)
21. 11:29 AM - Re: Foam Door Seal Details (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
22. 02:45 PM - Re: Re: RV10 Mark 1 Door Interlock (Richard Bibb)
23. 03:56 PM - Re: Re: RV10 Mark 1 Door Interlock (McGann, Ron)
24. 08:25 PM - Re: RV10 Mark 1 Door Interlock (nukeflyboy)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: A new builder on the block |
Welcome aboard - the water is fine!
Bill "hoping to join the flying in 2010" Watson
do not archive
MikeInIrving wrote:
>
> Team Ten,
> My tail kit is on the way, I've discovered Matronics, life is good.
>
> Mike Strube
> MikeInIrving
> Irving, Texas
> mike.strube at gmail.com
>
> --------
> Mike Strube
> Irving, Tx
> mike.strube at gmail.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266475#266475
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Ray Allen trim indicator failures |
I'm using the Ray Allen LED trim indicators but they quit working
after a few hours of flying. I could get them to work temporarily by
thumping them, but now they rarely work. Have others had this problem
and did you ever get them to work reliably?
Kevin Belue
RV10 flying
RV6A flying
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Same basement, different project...how time flies |
Wow! I thought you were a full scale glider guider only - didn't know
you dabbled in models. Did I say dabble? Looks like you were in the
business. I'm not good on post '95 profiles - what are they, Duo Disci?
I was a long time RCer too. My brother is still at it (Nats Masters
Champ 2 years ago). I still keep something in the shop for a quick
break from building.
That's good looking stuff.
We might all be interested in your wheel pants experience - that's
coming up fast for me.
Bill
do not archive
John Gonzalez wrote:
> Was looking through some photographs and thought to myself, who knew I
> would be building planes in my basement.
>
> Bill Watson, how do you like that first pic?
>
> Endless Cu's in a line, how about endless gliders on an assembly line.
>
> JOhn
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Mark 1 Door Interlock |
We need a hatch with explosive bolts... Gus Grissom
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine & Panel
delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266569#266569
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Ray Allen trim indicator failures |
Yeah, internally I've found solder joints broken and such. You should
take a peek inside once. In the end, I had one that I just couldn't
fix and they sent me a replacement.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Kevin Belue wrote:
>
> I'm using the Ray Allen LED trim indicators but they quit working after
> a few hours of flying. I could get them to work temporarily by thumping
> them, but now they rarely work. Have others had this problem and did you
> ever get them to work reliably?
>
> Kevin Belue
> RV10 flying
> RV6A flying
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Ray Allen trim indicator failures |
I have three in my panel and have replaced them all at least once as individual
LED's have failed.
I have one that is doing the same thing that you've mentioned and when I give it
a good flick-thump it comes back.
Maybe another bad batch of something.
Ralph
RV6A N822AR @ N06 38.4hrs - sooooo close
-----Original Message-----
>From: Kevin Belue <kdbelue@charter.net>
>Sent: Oct 5, 2009 8:48 AM
>To: "rv10-list@matronics.com" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV10-List: Ray Allen trim indicator failures
>
>
>I'm using the Ray Allen LED trim indicators but they quit working
>after a few hours of flying. I could get them to work temporarily by
>thumping them, but now they rarely work. Have others had this problem
>and did you ever get them to work reliably?
>
>Kevin Belue
>RV10 flying
>RV6A flying
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Ray Allen trim indicator failures |
My annual inspection is due next month so I'm waiting until then and
I'll take it apart. I thought there might be bad solder joints - you'd
think they would correct that QC issue by now....
Thanks for the info!
Kevin
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 5, 2009, at 8:11 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> Yeah, internally I've found solder joints broken and such. You should
> take a peek inside once. In the end, I had one that I just couldn't
> fix and they sent me a replacement.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> Kevin Belue wrote:
>> I'm using the Ray Allen LED trim indicators but they quit working
>> after a few hours of flying. I could get them to work temporarily
>> by thumping them, but now they rarely work. Have others had this
>> problem and did you ever get them to work reliably?
>> Kevin Belue
>> RV10 flying
>> RV6A flying
>
>
Message 8
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Morning;
515FW is a year old and going thru it's annual this weekend. 160 hrs.
Couple notes;
1. I did a poor job at sealing the bulkhead. I prosealed the flats but
somehow missed filling in the gaps in the corners in between the
flanges. The gaps are not real obvious as they are hidden behind the
the cowl hinge as you look from the outside. I have had occasional
blips on my CO monitor that have been intermittent and not seeming to be
related to attitude/conditions. I used high temp silicone from the
inside to seal.
Does anybody have a good reason for the gap at the forward edge of the
wing root? Water drainage? Air exit?
2. I would not have put in a center console if I had to do it again. I
have too much stuff to pull to adequately get a good look high up in the
tunnel. I put access panels on both sides of the tunnel to change the
fuel filter and that really helped. Only took about 20 min to change
this time.
3. If you have a Trutrak autopilot and the screen is starting to get
some lines and fail and you're thinking about getting it fixed, better
call and get in line. I went and pulled my unit out as I was there
anyway, called and it will be "several weeks" before they can get to it
and get it fixed. Courteous on the phone but obviously overwhelmed by
this problem. Put me on a call back list. Arguh .
4. I like the 3 pin idea for the door. But does it really solve the
problem of not checking each and every time before take off to make sure
the door has latched properly? The root cause and common denominator
seems to be not checking that the door is closed. Has there been a
door come off where the pins were engaged and checked?
Dr Fred
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: A new builder on the block |
Wow, I called and found out my kit number, it's #1,000
I'm buying a lottery ticket this week, it's my lucky week.
Mike Strube
--------
Mike Strube
Irving, Tx
mike.strube at gmail.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266601#266601
Message 10
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Dr Fred Wrote:
3. If you have a Trutrak autopilot and the
screen is starting to get
some lines and fail and you're thinking
about getting it fixed, better
call and get in line. I went and
pulled my unit out as I was there
anyway, called and it will be
"several weeks" before they can get to it
and get it fixed.
Courteous on the phone but obviously overwhelmed by
this problem.
Put me on a call back list. Arguh .
Another item regarding
the AP. If you have the Advanced Flight Systems version of the A/P,
you should look at having the the buttons and firmware updated to make it
a "real" AFS A/P. There is a firmware change as well as
button labeling change that needs to be done. The latest AFS
documentation shows the correct buttons. Functionality also changes
with the new software.
Our display has one pixel row blank as
well.
Jim Combs (N312F - 120 Hours)
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: A new builder on the block |
Gee you should get a prize for that number!
Jim C
-------------------------------------------------------------------
<mike.strube@gmail.com>
Wow, I called and found out my
kit number, it's #1,000
I'm buying a lottery ticket this week,
it's my lucky week.
Mike Strube
--------
Mike
Strube
Irving, Tx
mike.strube at gmail.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266601#266601
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Message 12
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If you are interested in pursuing this further Kent has a DVD at https://ww
w.tinmantech.com/html/vid_basic_damage_repair_alu.php. Not all of the techn
iques are appropriate for working with 2024 aluminum=2C but some work very
well.
Vern Smith #40324
Subject: RE: RV10-List: skin pimples
From: johnwcox@pacificnw.com
Kent White of OSH Metalworking Class fame has a technique for shrinking the
material. It would be considered advanced by some RV-10 builders. There
is a hammering technique to limit the additional stretch of material that i
s worthy of planishing before resorting to weight adding body fillers.
Wetsuit material laid inside the work area is a great line of defense for n
atural human occurances.
John Cox
From: woxofswa
Sent: Sun 10/4/2009 7:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: skin pimples
As I was riveting my QB wing skin=2C my well meaning neighbor helped me buc
k some rivets. When I do it myself I keep rags on the lower inside skin in
case the bucking bar gets dropped=2C but unfortunately=2C the rags didn't
get moved enough and sure enough=2C we ended up with a couple of skin "pimp
les" on the upper outer skin surface.
Is there a prescribed way to deal with said pimples?
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa=2C AZ
Emp completed=2C legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266508#266508
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_________________________________________________________________=0A
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.=0A
Message 13
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I don't have my doors yet but have been in an RV-10. It seems to me if you had
the third pin going down, it would be probably impossible to pin the front and
not have the middle and rear pin engaged. That is what I like about the third
pin idea. I bet the door wouldn't flex enough to have that happen. The last
incident had the front pin in and the rear pin out.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266609#266609
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: A new builder on the block |
Now that is a real nice surprise!
Tim
Do not archive
On Oct 5, 2009, at 10:12 AM, "MikeInIrving" <mike.strube@gmail.com>
wrote:
> <mike.strube@gmail.com>
>
> Wow, I called and found out my kit number, it's #1,000
>
> I'm buying a lottery ticket this week, it's my lucky week.
>
> Mike Strube
>
> --------
> Mike Strube
> Irving, Tx
> mike.strube at gmail.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266601#266601
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Ray Allen trim indicator failures |
Thanks for the tip.. Before installing mine, I'm going to open them up
and take a peek inside.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Belue [mailto:kdbelue@charter.net]
Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ray Allen trim indicator failures
My annual inspection is due next month so I'm waiting until then and
I'll take it apart. I thought there might be bad solder joints - you'd
think they would correct that QC issue by now....
Thanks for the info!
Kevin
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 5, 2009, at 8:11 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> Yeah, internally I've found solder joints broken and such. You should
> take a peek inside once. In the end, I had one that I just couldn't
> fix and they sent me a replacement.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> Kevin Belue wrote:
>> I'm using the Ray Allen LED trim indicators but they quit working
>> after a few hours of flying. I could get them to work temporarily
>> by thumping them, but now they rarely work. Have others had this
>> problem and did you ever get them to work reliably?
>> Kevin Belue
>> RV10 flying
>> RV6A flying
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: A new builder on the block |
The good news is you are #1,000 the bad news is... you may need to win
the lottery :-).
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MikeInIrving
Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 8:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: A new builder on the block
Wow, I called and found out my kit number, it's #1,000
I'm buying a lottery ticket this week, it's my lucky week.
Mike Strube
--------
Mike Strube
Irving, Tx
mike.strube at gmail.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266601#266601
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
10/04/09 18:42:00
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: A new builder on the block |
Congratulations. My QB kit is supposed to arrive in a couple hours
after 8 month wait.
Kelly
40866
On Mon, Oct 5, 2009 at 8:12 AM, MikeInIrving <mike.strube@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Wow, I called and found out my kit number, it's #1,000
>
> I'm buying a lottery ticket this week, it's my lucky week.
>
> Mike Strube
>
> --------
> Mike Strube
> Irving, Tx
> mike.strube at gmail.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266601#266601
>
>
Message 18
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I really like the thought of adding some strips of carbon fiber to the
door halves before bonding them together to minimize flex of the door.
The more rigid we can make the door without adding significant wt. the
better.
On Mon, Oct 5, 2009 at 8:52 AM, Strasnuts <sean@braunandco.com> wrote:
>
> I don't have my doors yet but have been in an RV-10. It seems to me if you had
the third pin going down, it would be probably impossible to pin the front and
not have the middle and rear pin engaged. That is what I like about the third
pin idea. I bet the door wouldn't flex enough to have that happen. The last
incident had the front pin in and the rear pin out.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266609#266609
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Annual - carbon fiber layup in doors |
It really did make a big difference in door stiffness
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 9:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Annual
I really like the thought of adding some strips of carbon fiber to the
door halves before bonding them together to minimize flex of the door.
The more rigid we can make the door without adding significant wt. the
better.
On Mon, Oct 5, 2009 at 8:52 AM, Strasnuts <sean@braunandco.com> wrote:
>
> I don't have my doors yet but have been in an RV-10. It seems to me if
you had the third pin going down, it would be probably impossible to pin the
front and not have the middle and rear pin engaged. That is what I like
about the third pin idea. I bet the door wouldn't flex enough to have that
happen. The last incident had the front pin in and the rear pin out.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266609#266609
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Foam Door Seal Details |
McMaster-Carr P/Ns and descriptions:
293745K23 OIL-AND WATER-RESISTANT VINYL/BUNA-N FOAM, ADHESIVE-BACK,
EXTRA-SOFT, 1/8" THK, 3/4"W, 50'L $8.29
393745K33 OIL-AND WATER-RESISTANT VINYL/BUNA-N FOAM, ADHESIVE-BACK,
EXTRA-SOFT, 3/16" THK, 3/4"W, 50'L $9.34
493745K43 OIL-AND WATER-RESISTANT VINYL/BUNA-N FOAM, ADHESIVE-BACK,
EXTRA-SOFT, 1/4" THK, 3/4"W, 50'L $10.26
[image: IMG_2637.JPG][image: IMG_2636.JPG]
I initially ordered all three thicknesses. When I reapplied the seals after
paint, I only used the 1/8" and 1/4".
Close the door, mark the outline of the door opening with a sharpie on the
door, and use the line as the ID of the seal. If you just cover up the line
you get a nice even reveal when the door is closed.
Build up any gaps larger than 1/16" with varying thicknesses, then overlay
the whole diameter with one layer of 1/8".
The door will be hard to close the first time. Push it closed and leave it
overnight. The seals take a set and develop a definite groove, but they do
not offer any resistance to closing after the take the shape.
One more downside: The adhesive is not particularly aggressive. Over time
(more than a year) the tightest radii have begun to creep a bit, maybe
1/8". I suspect that I may need to replace the seals after another year.
[image: IMG_0005.JPG]
Here's the "backwards" bevel to help ensure that the pin engages the hole
correctly. Since I have metal guide blocks, I know that the pin makes
contact at the complete diameter, not at the bevel. The aft pin is the same
way.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Foam Door Seal Details |
Thanks Dave. I think this is the same stuff the Maule factory uses on
their doors. I think I may go this route because it seems simple. In
any case I'm going to order some and check it out.
Bill
Dave Saylor wrote:
> McMaster-Carr P/Ns and descriptions:
>
> 293745K23 OIL-AND WATER-RESISTANT VINYL/BUNA-N FOAM, ADHESIVE-BACK,
> EXTRA-SOFT, 1/8" THK, 3/4"W, 50'L $8.29
> 393745K33 OIL-AND WATER-RESISTANT VINYL/BUNA-N FOAM, ADHESIVE-BACK,
> EXTRA-SOFT, 3/16" THK, 3/4"W, 50'L $9.34
> 493745K43 OIL-AND WATER-RESISTANT VINYL/BUNA-N FOAM, ADHESIVE-BACK,
> EXTRA-SOFT, 1/4" THK, 3/4"W, 50'L $10.26
>
> IMG_2637.JPGIMG_2636.JPG
> I initially ordered all three thicknesses. When I reapplied the seals
> after paint, I only used the 1/8" and 1/4".
>
> Close the door, mark the outline of the door opening with a sharpie on
> the door, and use the line as the ID of the seal. If you just cover
> up the line you get a nice even reveal when the door is closed.
>
> Build up any gaps larger than 1/16" with varying thicknesses, then
> overlay the whole diameter with one layer of 1/8".
>
> The door will be hard to close the first time. Push it closed and
> leave it overnight. The seals take a set and develop a definite
> groove, but they do not offer any resistance to closing after the take
> the shape.
>
> One more downside: The adhesive is not particularly aggressive. Over
> time (more than a year) the tightest radii have begun to creep a bit,
> maybe 1/8". I suspect that I may need to replace the seals after
> another year.
>
>
> IMG_0005.JPG
>
> Here's the "backwards" bevel to help ensure that the pin engages the
> hole correctly. Since I have metal guide blocks, I know that the pin
> makes contact at the complete diameter, not at the bevel. The aft pin
> is the same way.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Mark 1 Door Interlock |
The thing I don't like about a vertical down pin is that, due to its
location in the window sill area, it will collect water when it rains and
you open the door on the ramp. The water will go someplace and likely lead
to long tern corrosion internally to the fuselage side (probably behind some
upholstery.
I've been kicking around in my head a different approach that I hope to draw
up soon and will offer it for comment to the group. Since I'm not building
the doors yet I don't even have the actual parts to measure to make drawings
that will actually work but I'm close enough to make conceptual drawings at
least.
Richard Bibb
972-771-2598
972-835-5979 mobile
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 7:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10 Mark 1 Door Interlock
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Mark 1 Door Interlock |
Reminder of another useful thread on this subject.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=26526&highlight=v
iljoen
cheers,
Ron
VH-XRM
flying in Oz
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Mark 1 Door Interlock |
I am currently working on my doors and have been following this with interest.
Here are a couple observations.
I like the idea of deeper engagement into the cabin/fuselage structure and the
pins can be made to do this. As suggested earlier you can trim the racks a little
bigger than the plans call for to give a bigger "throw" to the lever.
There is a limit to this however. With the pins retracted the back side of the
rack hits the elbow cavity, the dished in portion of the door. There is limited
space in the door interior because of that cavity. The most you can add to
the length of the rack is an additional 5/16 inch. Nevertheless that is another
5/16 inch engagement of the pins.
The door latch lever does come back further when opening as a result, maybe another
30 degrees. This could be a problem if you had a large elbow rest installed
on the door.
Most of the ideas I have seen will require a major modification to the door. In
particular that elbow cavity will have to go to make room for all of the mechanisms.
I don't want to personally go there. With the door seal from Alex you
can have a door that will close correctly every time. The pins naturally align
correctly with no outward bow to the aft part of the door. I have seen it
on Debbie Dewey's airplane.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266736#266736
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