Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:07 AM - Re: Foam Door Seal Details (johngoodman)
2. 07:42 AM - Re: Re: Foam Door Seal Details (Dave Saylor)
3. 08:47 AM - Re: Copperstate RV10 nest (Deems Davis)
4. 08:55 AM - Door Pin - Idea (Perry, Phil)
5. 09:20 AM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (Deems Davis)
6. 09:49 AM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (Linn Walters)
7. 09:50 AM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (Dave Saylor)
8. 10:02 AM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (Miller John)
9. 10:20 AM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (Danny Riggs)
10. 10:21 AM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (Perry, Phil)
11. 10:21 AM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (Perry, Phil)
12. 10:30 AM - hat switch relays (Lew Gallagher)
13. 10:45 AM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (Dave Saylor)
14. 10:47 AM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (Dave Saylor)
15. 10:50 AM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (tomhanaway)
16. 10:51 AM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (Les Kearney)
17. 10:52 AM - Re: RV10 Mark 1 Door Interlock (Strasnuts)
18. 10:54 AM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (Strasnuts)
19. 11:22 AM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (Perry, Phil)
20. 11:47 AM - Re: Re: Door Pin - Idea (Danny Riggs)
21. 11:47 AM - Re: Re: RV10 Mark 1 Door Interlock (Robin Marks)
22. 11:50 AM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (Danny Riggs)
23. 12:36 PM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (Linn Walters)
24. 04:08 PM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (John Dunne)
25. 04:53 PM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (McGann, Ron)
26. 08:42 PM - Re: Door Pin - Idea (Robin Marks)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Foam Door Seal Details |
Dave,
Good tip. I checked on McMaster-Carr and couldn't find the part numbers at first.
Turns out that your reference has an extra number in front. For example:
293745K23
shoud be:
93745K23
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine & Panel
delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266767#266767
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Foam Door Seal Details |
Ooo, sorry. That's the line item number. Should have been:
93745K23
93745K33
93745K43
That'll work better.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 7:06 AM, johngoodman <johngoodman@earthlink.net>wrote:
>
> Dave,
> Good tip. I checked on McMaster-Carr and couldn't find the part numbers at
> first. Turns out that your reference has an extra number in front. For
> example:
> 293745K23
> shoud be:
> 93745K23
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine &
> Panel delivery soon.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266767#266767
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Copperstate RV10 nest |
Myron, I'll be flying down Sat morning and staying most of the day. Let
me know if I can help out.
Deems
woxofswa wrote:
>
> The second (and last), annual RV10 nest at Copperstate is a go.
>
> Should be set up by Friday morning through Sat night for a shady place to relax.
>
> Carne Asada mid day Saturday until its gone. Would like to get a rough head
count for planning purposes.
>
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265270#265270
>
>
>
Message 4
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Good morning,
I haven't reached the door fitting section of the kit yet, but I have
spent some time reviewing the plans (thank Tim) to get an idea how they
function.
This morning I woke up with an idea that might solve the door issue.
I'm going to boil the door issue down to a couple of widely accepted
statements.
1) The Nylon blocks are only there to act as a guide for the door
pins ;
2) The door pins must extend completely through the aluminum frame.
The idea (highly complex) is designed to transfer load from the nylon
block area and into the aluminum frame - even if the pins do not fully
extend in to the frame.
Attached is a drawing and it involves installing a flanged bushing on
the backside of the aluminum frame. The only thing we will have to do
is slightly oversize the 7/16" hole (say 5/8") in the aluminum. The
bushing will bring the hole size back down to 7/16". The cabin top and
the nylon block will also have to be drilled larger to accommodate the
bushing. (~5/8")
Now we install the bushing from the back side of the aluminum frame.
The flange sits firmly against the aluminum and extends (towards the
door) through the aluminum, cabin top, and nylon block.
At the nylon block, we have a couple of options with the bushing.
1) We can cut the bushing off flush with the nylon block; or
2) Extend the bushing some distance (maybe 1/16" or 1/8" - really
depends on how your doors fit) to extend the carry through closer to the
door. This way a door pin that would typically fall short of engaging
could be captured by the bushing; or
3) If we use the proper material, we could add a flare to the door
side and the flare would act as a door pin guide through the material
and into the door frame.
Finally, if your door pins go all the way through the metal today -
nothing changes. You're still good - but just have a little extra
protection against the not-so-fully-engaged door pin.
This would also help with the door bulge theory by bringing some
structural support further up the door pins.
Anyone have any thoughts? I think I'm going to call around to a couple
of local machine shops.
Phil
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Idea |
Phil, I think the bushing idea, accomplishes much of the same thing that
the Rivethead/Dineri Receivers do. Why not just install them?
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Perry, Phil wrote:
>
> Good morning,
>
> I havent reached the door fitting section of the kit yet, but I have
> spent some time reviewing the plans (thank Tim) to get an idea how
> they function.
>
> This morning I woke up with an idea that might solve the door issue.
>
> Im going to boil the door issue down to a couple of widely accepted
> statements.
>
> 1) The Nylon blocks are only there to act as a guide for the door pins ;
>
> 2) The door pins must extend completely through the aluminum frame.
>
> The idea (highly complex) is designed to transfer load from the nylon
> block area and into the aluminum frame even if the pins do not fully
> extend in to the frame.
>
> Attached is a drawing and it involves installing a flanged bushing on
> the backside of the aluminum frame. The only thing we will have to do
> is slightly oversize the 7/16 hole (say 5/8) in the aluminum. The
> bushing will bring the hole size back down to 7/16. The cabin top and
> the nylon block will also have to be drilled larger to accommodate the
> bushing. (~5/8)
>
> Now we install the bushing from the back side of the aluminum frame.
> The flange sits firmly against the aluminum and extends (towards the
> door) through the aluminum, cabin top, and nylon block.
>
> At the nylon block, we have a couple of options with the bushing.
>
> 1) We can cut the bushing off flush with the nylon block; or
>
> 2) Extend the bushing some distance (maybe 1/16 or 1/8 really
> depends on how your doors fit) to extend the carry through closer to
> the door. This way a door pin that would typically fall short of
> engaging could be captured by the bushing; or
>
> 3) If we use the proper material, we could add a flare to the door
> side and the flare would act as a door pin guide through the material
> and into the door frame.
>
> Finally, if your door pins go all the way through the metal today
> nothing changes. Youre still good but just have a little extra
> protection against the not-so-fully-engaged door pin.
>
> This would also help with the door bulge theory by bringing some
> structural support further up the door pins.
>
> Anyone have any thoughts? I think Im going to call around to a couple
> of local machine shops.
>
> Phil
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Idea |
Good idea Phil! Not having given it much thought since I read your
email, I have this small comment. I'd use an oilite bushing .....
because they can be bought in almost any size, and most come with the
flange. I'd put the flange on the door side .... otherwise the pins may
push it through into the fuse. If you leave the aluminum hole the same
size of the pin, then you can use the aluminum to control how deep the
bearing will go. Just a thought ..... may be easier and less expensive
to have a machine shop build something.
Linn
do not archive.
Perry, Phil wrote:
> Good morning,
>
>
>
> I havent reached the door fitting section of the kit yet, but I have
> spent some time reviewing the plans (thank Tim) to get an idea how they
> function.
>
>
>
> This morning I woke up with an idea that might solve the door issue.
>
>
>
> Im going to boil the door issue down to a couple of widely accepted
> statements.
>
> 1) The Nylon blocks are only there to act as a guide for the door
> pins ;
>
> 2) The door pins must extend completely through the aluminum frame.
>
>
>
> The idea (highly complex) is designed to transfer load from the nylon
> block area and into the aluminum frame even if the pins do not fully
> extend in to the frame.
>
>
>
> Attached is a drawing and it involves installing a flanged bushing on
> the backside of the aluminum frame. The only thing we will have to do
> is slightly oversize the 7/16 hole (say 5/8) in the aluminum. The
> bushing will bring the hole size back down to 7/16. The cabin top and
> the nylon block will also have to be drilled larger to accommodate the
> bushing. (~5/8)
>
>
>
> Now we install the bushing from the back side of the aluminum frame.
> The flange sits firmly against the aluminum and extends (towards the
> door) through the aluminum, cabin top, and nylon block.
>
>
>
> At the nylon block, we have a couple of options with the bushing.
>
> 1) We can cut the bushing off flush with the nylon block; or
>
> 2) Extend the bushing some distance (maybe 1/16 or 1/8 really
> depends on how your doors fit) to extend the carry through closer to the
> door. This way a door pin that would typically fall short of engaging
> could be captured by the bushing; or
>
> 3) If we use the proper material, we could add a flare to the door
> side and the flare would act as a door pin guide through the material
> and into the door frame.
>
>
>
> Finally, if your door pins go all the way through the metal today
> nothing changes. Youre still good but just have a little extra
> protection against the not-so-fully-engaged door pin.
>
>
>
> This would also help with the door bulge theory by bringing some
> structural support further up the door pins.
>
>
>
> Anyone have any thoughts? I think Im going to call around to a couple
> of local machine shops.
>
>
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Idea |
Phil,
That's along the right track, but if you look at the nylon blocks you can
see that the pin hole is drilled at a slight angle, I think in order to pul
l
the pins inboard. Either that, or the angle is supposed to help compensate
for the nonparallel fiberglass surface. Whichever, the blocks actually do
see some load. Whether that's by design is debatable. Results suggest tha
t
they certainly do see a load, and aren't just acting as guides.
The bushing would increase the amount of contact area, which is needed. I
see your bushing being in line with the pin, so it wouldn't supply any
inward tension. Also, if the nylon block is supporting the bushing, I thin
k
it might rock around a bit and eventually tear up the block.
Metal guide blocks do essentially the same thing as the bushing, and also
provide the inward tension.
Here's one of my blocks before it got upgraded.
[image: IMG_2734.JPG]
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 8:52 AM, Perry, Phil <Phil.Perry@netapp.com> wrote:
> Good morning,
>
>
> I haven=92t reached the door fitting section of the kit yet, but I have s
pent
> some time reviewing the plans (thank Tim) to get an idea how they functio
n.
>
>
> This morning I woke up with an idea that might solve the door issue.
>
>
> I=92m going to boil the door issue down to a couple of widely accepted
> statements.
>
> 1) The Nylon blocks are only there to act as a guide for the door
> pins ;
>
> 2) The door pins must extend completely through the aluminum frame.
>
>
> The idea (highly complex) is designed to transfer load from the nylon blo
ck
> area and into the aluminum frame ' even if the pins do not fully extend
in
> to the frame.
>
>
> Attached is a drawing and it involves installing a flanged bushing on the
> backside of the aluminum frame. The only thing we will have to do is
> slightly oversize the 7/16=94 hole (say 5/8=94) in the aluminum. The bus
hing
> will bring the hole size back down to 7/16=94. The cabin top and the nyl
on
> block will also have to be drilled larger to accommodate the bushing.
> (~5/8=94)
>
>
> Now we install the bushing from the back side of the aluminum frame. T
he
> flange sits firmly against the aluminum and extends (towards the door)
> through the aluminum, cabin top, and nylon block.
>
>
> At the nylon block, we have a couple of options with the bushing.
>
> 1) We can cut the bushing off flush with the nylon block; or
>
> 2) Extend the bushing some distance (maybe 1/16=94 or 1/8=94 ' re
ally
> depends on how your doors fit) to extend the carry through closer to the
> door. This way a door pin that would typically fall short of engaging
> could be captured by the bushing; or
>
> 3) If we use the proper material, we could add a flare to the door
> side and the flare would act as a door pin guide through the material and
> into the door frame.
>
>
> Finally, if your door pins go all the way through the metal today ' not
hing
> changes. You=92re still good ' but just have a little extra protection
> against the not-so-fully-engaged door pin.
>
>
> This would also help with the door bulge theory by bringing some structur
al
> support further up the door pins.
>
>
> Anyone have any thoughts? I think I=92m going to call around to a couple
of
> local machine shops.
>
>
> Phil
>
>
Message 8
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|
| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Idea |
It would be nice to have a metal block the exact same size as the
nylon one for retrofit.
The bullet and block would not retrofit to my door.....
grumpy
N184JM
do not archive
On Oct 6, 2009, at 11:43 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> Phil,
>
> That's along the right track, but if you look at the nylon blocks
> you can see that the pin hole is drilled at a slight angle, I think
> in order to pull the pins inboard. Either that, or the angle is
> supposed to help compensate for the nonparallel fiberglass surface.
> Whichever, the blocks actually do see some load. Whether that's by
> design is debatable. Results suggest that they certainly do see a
> load, and aren't just acting as guides.
>
> The bushing would increase the amount of contact area, which is
> needed. I see your bushing being in line with the pin, so it
> wouldn't supply any inward tension. Also, if the nylon block is
> supporting the bushing, I think it might rock around a bit and
> eventually tear up the block.
>
> Metal guide blocks do essentially the same thing as the bushing, and
> also provide the inward tension.
>
> Here's one of my blocks before it got upgraded.
>
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 8:52 AM, Perry, Phil <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
> wrote:
> Good morning,
>
>
> I haven=92t reached the door fitting section of the kit yet, but I
> have spent some time reviewing the plans (thank Tim) to get an idea
> how they function.
>
>
> This morning I woke up with an idea that might solve the door issue.
>
>
> I=92m going to boil the door issue down to a couple of widely
> accepted statements.
>
> 1) The Nylon blocks are only there to act as a guide for the
> door pins ;
>
> 2) The door pins must extend completely through the aluminum
> frame.
>
>
> The idea (highly complex) is designed to transfer load from the
> nylon block area and into the aluminum frame ' even if the pins do
> not fully extend in to the frame.
>
>
> Attached is a drawing and it involves installing a flanged bushing
> on the backside of the aluminum frame. The only thing we will have
> to do is slightly oversize the 7/16=94 hole (say 5/8=94) in the
> aluminum. The bushing will bring the hole size back down to 7/16=94.
> The cabin top and the nylon block will also have to be drilled
> larger to accommodate the bushing. (~5/8=94)
>
>
> Now we install the bushing from the back side of the aluminum
> frame. The flange sits firmly against the aluminum and extends
> (towards the door) through the aluminum, cabin top, and nylon block.
>
>
> At the nylon block, we have a couple of options with the bushing.
>
> 1) We can cut the bushing off flush with the nylon block; or
>
> 2) Extend the bushing some distance (maybe 1/16=94 or 1/8=94 '
> really depends on how your doors fit) to extend the carry through
> closer to the door. This way a door pin that would typically fall
> short of engaging could be captured by the bushing; or
>
> 3) If we use the proper material, we could add a flare to the
> door side and the flare would act as a door pin guide through the
> material and into the door frame.
>
>
> Finally, if your door pins go all the way through the metal today '
> nothing changes. You=92re still good ' but just have a little extra
> protection against the not-so-fully-engaged door pin.
>
>
> This would also help with the door bulge theory by bringing some
> structural support further up the door pins.
>
>
> Anyone have any thoughts? I think I=92m going to call around to a
> couple of local machine shops.
>
>
> Phil
>
>
Message 9
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|
I think Phil's idea has lots of merit. However=2C like Deems said=2C the Ri
vethead aluminum blocks do the same thing and already are available. People
who are debating this have obviously NOT seem the Rivethead design and wha
t it has accomplished. That said=2C Phil's idea would work very well also.
I just finished the latches on my doors using the Rivethead method. Those d
oors are going nowhere unless the door can bulge out about 12" in the middl
e. Not likely. (I hope=2C otherwise I got other problems ). Dan
> Date: Tue=2C 6 Oct 2009 09:14:17 -0700
> From: deemsdavis@cox.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Pin - Idea
>
>
> Phil=2C I think the bushing idea=2C accomplishes much of the same thing t
hat
> the Rivethead/Dineri Receivers do. Why not just install them?
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
> Perry=2C Phil wrote:
> >
> > Good morning=2C
> >
> > I haven=92t reached the door fitting section of the kit yet=2C but I ha
ve
> > spent some time reviewing the plans (thank Tim) to get an idea how
> > they function.
> >
> > This morning I woke up with an idea that might solve the door issue.
> >
> > I=92m going to boil the door issue down to a couple of widely accepted
> > statements.
> >
> > 1) The Nylon blocks are only there to act as a guide for the door pins
=3B
> >
> > 2) The door pins must extend completely through the aluminum frame.
> >
> > The idea (highly complex) is designed to transfer load from the nylon
> > block area and into the aluminum frame ' even if the pins do not full
y
> > extend in to the frame.
> >
> > Attached is a drawing and it involves installing a flanged bushing on
> > the backside of the aluminum frame. The only thing we will have to do
> > is slightly oversize the 7/16=94 hole (say 5/8=94) in the aluminum. The
> > bushing will bring the hole size back down to 7/16=94. The cabin top an
d
> > the nylon block will also have to be drilled larger to accommodate the
> > bushing. (~5/8=94)
> >
> > Now we install the bushing from the back side of the aluminum frame.
> > The flange sits firmly against the aluminum and extends (towards the
> > door) through the aluminum=2C cabin top=2C and nylon block.
> >
> > At the nylon block=2C we have a couple of options with the bushing.
> >
> > 1) We can cut the bushing off flush with the nylon block=3B or
> >
> > 2) Extend the bushing some distance (maybe 1/16=94 or 1/8=94 ' really
> > depends on how your doors fit) to extend the carry through closer to
> > the door. This way a door pin that would typically fall short of
> > engaging could be captured by the bushing=3B or
> >
> > 3) If we use the proper material=2C we could add a flare to the door
> > side and the flare would act as a door pin guide through the material
> > and into the door frame.
> >
> > Finally=2C if your door pins go all the way through the metal today '
> > nothing changes. You=92re still good ' but just have a little extra
> > protection against the not-so-fully-engaged door pin.
> >
> > This would also help with the door bulge theory by bringing some
> > structural support further up the door pins.
> >
> > Anyone have any thoughts? I think I=92m going to call around to a coupl
e
> > of local machine shops.
> >
> > Phil
> >
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
=0A
_________________________________________________________________=0A
Hotmail: Free=2C trusted and rich email service.=0A
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Idea |
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Idea |
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Message 12
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| Subject: | hat switch relays |
OK, EE guys.
We got the relay by aircraft extras (aircraftextras.com) to control the elavator
trim through the hat switch. Not expensive, well made, does the job (Thanks!).
What I'm wondering is: if i just got two SPDT 12v relays from radio shack, would
it do the same thing? As you know, I love to tinker and the aircraft extras
relay gizmo incorporates a couple of diodes and something else (?) to "protect
against inductive sparking generated from relays switching inductive loads
such as motors". How critical is this? Anybody just go with the relays?
Later, - Lew amazed-and-bedazzled-by-the-door-latch-braintrust Gallagher
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266821#266821
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Idea |
Fifth item down:
http://www.aircraftersllc.com/products.htm
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 9:56 AM, Miller John <gengrumpy@aol.com> wrote:
> It would be nice to have a metal block the exact same size as the nylon one
> for retrofit.
> The bullet and block would not retrofit to my door.....
>
> grumpy
> N184JM
>
> Do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Idea |
3.4 degrees , page 45-15
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 10:18 AM, Perry, Phil <Phil.Perry@netapp.com> wrote:
> If we could get that angle, we could machine that into the flange.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Idea |
Since many had a very bad experience with purchases from the rivethead website, I highly recommend using http://www.iflyrv10.com/ (steve dineri) if you decide to purchase the door pin jambs.
Tom H.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266828#266828
Message 16
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Hi
Steve Deneri also has door blocks at IFLYRV10.COM.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: October-06-09 11:05 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Pin - Idea
I think Phil's idea has lots of merit. However, like Deems said, the
Rivethead aluminum blocks do the same thing and already are available.
People who are debating this have obviously NOT seem the Rivethead design
and what it has accomplished. That said, Phil's idea would work very well
also. I just finished the latches on my doors using the Rivethead method.
Those doors are going nowhere unless the door can bulge out about 12" in the
middle. Not likely. (I hope, otherwise I got other problems
<http://gfx2.hotmail.com/mail/w4/pr01/ltr/emoticons/smile_teeth.gif> ). Dan
> Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 09:14:17 -0700
> From: deemsdavis@cox.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Pin - Idea
>
>
> Phil, I think the bushing idea, accomplishes much of the same thing that
> the Rivethead/Dineri Receivers do. Why not just install them?
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
> Perry, Phil wrote:
> >
> > Good morning,
> >
> > I haven't reached the door fitting section of the kit yet, but I have
> > spent some time reviewing the plans (thank Tim) to get an idea how
> > they function.
> >
> > This morning I woke up with an idea that might solve the door issue.
> >
> > I'm going to boil the door issue down to a couple of widely accepted
> > statements.
> >
> > 1) The Nylon blocks are only there to act as a guide for the door pins ;
> >
> > 2) The door pins must extend completely through the aluminum frame.
> >
> > The idea (highly complex) is designed to transfer load from the nylon
> > block area and into the aluminum frame - even if the pins do not fully
> > extend in to the frame.
> >
> > Attached is a drawing and it involves installing a flanged bushing on
> > the backside of the aluminum frame. The only thing we will have to do
> > is slightly oversize the 7/16" hole (say 5/8") in the aluminum. The
> > bushing will bring the hole size back down to 7/16". The cabin top and
> > the nylon block will also have to be drilled larger to accommodate the
> > bushing. (~5/8")
> >
> > Now we install the bushing from the back side of the aluminum frame.
> > The flange sits firmly against the aluminum and extends (towards the
> > door) through the aluminum, cabin top, and nylon block.
> >
> > At the nylon block, we have a couple of options with the bushing.
> >
> > 1) We can cut the bushing off flush with the nylon block; or
> >
> > 2) Extend the bushing some distance (maybe 1/16" or 1/8" - really
> > depends on how your doors fit) to extend the carry through closer to
> > the door. This way a door pin that would typically fall short of
> > engaging could be captured by the bushing; or
> >
> > 3) If we use the proper material, we could add a flare to the door
> > side and the flare would act as a door pin guide through the material
> > and into the door frame.
> >
> > Finally, if your door pins go all the way through the metal today -
> > nothing changes. You're still good - but just have a little extra
> > protection against the not-so-fully-engaged door pin.
> >
> > This would also help with the door bulge theory by bringing some
> > structural support further up the door pins.
> >
> > Anyone have any thoughts? I think I'm going to call around to a couple
> > of local machine shops.
> >
> > Phil
>=====================
>===============
>
>
>
_____
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email s='_new'>Get it now.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Mark 1 Door Interlock |
I think I will still try to work on a vertical pin. It just seems the easiest
with no other latches and still be easy for the passenger to close. I will still
check it and have dummy lights.
I could machine a pocket for the vertical pin so water or anything else couldn't
find its way into the aircraft. You could unscrew the pocket to empty it if
it got foreign objects or water in it.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266832#266832
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Idea |
I have scrap Delrin in the machine shop. This might work well for guide blocks.
It is extremely strong stuff and wouldn't wear the metal pins.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266833#266833
Message 19
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I own a set of the Rivet Head blocks and pins.... They're nice and
they're definitely better than the stock setup.
I am still wanting to use them, but I'll probably change their role a
bit. I'll probably drill them so the door pin can pass through the
aluminum. IIRC, they do not pass through the frame.
You could use the bushing the rivet head in parallel and get the best of
both worlds.
Phil
From: Danny Riggs [mailto:jdriggs49@msn.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 12:05 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Pin - Idea
I think Phil's idea has lots of merit. However, like Deems said, the
Rivethead aluminum blocks do the same thing and already are available.
People who are debating this have obviously NOT seem the Rivethead
design and what it has accomplished. That said, Phil's idea would work
very well also. I just finished the latches on my doors using the
Rivethead method. Those doors are going nowhere unless the door can
bulge out about 12" in the middle. Not likely. (I hope, otherwise I got
other problems
<http://gfx2.hotmail.com/mail/w4/pr01/ltr/emoticons/smile_teeth.gif> ).
Dan
> Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 09:14:17 -0700
> From: deemsdavis@cox.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Pin - Idea
>
>
> Phil, I think the bushing idea, accomplishes much of the same thing
that
> the Rivethead/Dineri Receivers do. Why not just install them?
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
> Perry, Phil wrote:
> >
> > Good morning,
> >
> > I haven't reached the door fitting section of the kit yet, but I
have
> > spent some time reviewing the plans (thank Tim) to get an idea how
> > they function.
> >
> > This morning I woke up with an idea that might solve the door issue.
> >
> > I'm going to boil the door issue down to a couple of widely accepted
> > statements.
> >
> > 1) The Nylon blocks are only there to act as a guide for the door
pins ;
> >
> > 2) The door pins must extend completely through the aluminum frame.
> >
> > The idea (highly complex) is designed to transfer load from the
nylon
> > block area and into the aluminum frame - even if the pins do not
fully
> > extend in to the frame.
> >
> > Attached is a drawing and it involves installing a flanged bushing
on
> > the backside of the aluminum frame. The only thing we will have to
do
> > is slightly oversize the 7/16" hole (say 5/8") in the aluminum. The
> > bushing will bring the hole size back down to 7/16". The cabin top
and
> > the nylon block will also have to be drilled larger to accommodate
the
> > bushing. (~5/8")
> >
> > Now we install the bushing from the back side of the aluminum frame.
> > The flange sits firmly against the aluminum and extends (towards the
> > door) through the aluminum, cabin top, and nylon block.
> >
> > At the nylon block, we have a couple of options with the bushing.
> >
> > 1) We can cut the bushing off flush with the nylon block; or
> >
> > 2) Extend the bushing some distance (maybe 1/16" or 1/8" - really
> > depends on how your doors fit) to extend the carry through closer to
> > the door. This way a door pin that would typically fall short of
> > engaging could be captured by the bushing; or
> >
> > 3) If we use the proper material, we could add a flare to the door
> > side and the flare would act as a door pin guide through the
material
> > and into the door frame.
> >
> > Finally, if your door pins go all the way through the metal today -
> > nothing changes. You're still good - but just have a little extra
> > protection against the not-so-fully-engaged door pin.
> >
> > This would also help with the door bulge theory by bringing some
> > structural support further up the door pins.
> >
> > Anyone have any thoughts? I think I'm going to call around to a
couple
> > of local machine shops.
> >
> > Phil
>=====================
>===============
>
>
>
________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email s='_new'>Get it now.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Idea |
I bought my blocks and other things from Steve. Always had good service fro
m him. Dan
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Pin - Idea
> From: tomhanaway@comcast.net
> Date: Tue=2C 6 Oct 2009 10:49:41 -0700
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Since many had a very bad experience with purchases from the rivethead we
bsite=2C I highly recommend using http://www.iflyrv10.com/ (steve dineri) i
f you decide to purchase the door pin jambs.
> Tom H.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266828#266828
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
=0A
_________________________________________________________________=0A
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.=0A
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Mark 1 Door Interlock |
Or Wet/Dry Shop Vacuum it out.
I like some form or 3rd pin concept.
Robin
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 10:52 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 Mark 1 Door Interlock
I think I will still try to work on a vertical pin. It just seems the
easiest with no other latches and still be easy for the passenger to
close. I will still check it and have dummy lights.
I could machine a pocket for the vertical pin so water or anything else
couldn't find its way into the aircraft. You could unscrew the pocket
to empty it if it got foreign objects or water in it.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266832#266832
Message 22
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|
If you drill them out the door rods will go right on thru the door frame. N
o way thats coming out.
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Pin - Idea
From: Phil.Perry@netapp.com
I own a set of the Rivet Head blocks and pins=85. They=92re nice and they
=92re definitely better than the stock setup.
I am still wanting to use them=2C but I=92ll probably change their role a b
it. I=92ll probably drill them so the door pin can pass through the alumin
um. IIRC=2C they do not pass through the frame.
You could use the bushing the rivet head in parallel and get the best of bo
th worlds.
Phil
From: Danny Riggs [mailto:jdriggs49@msn.com]
Sent: Tuesday=2C October 06=2C 2009 12:05 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Pin - Idea
I think Phil's idea has lots of merit. However=2C like Deems said=2C the Ri
vethead aluminum blocks do the same thing and already are available. People
who are debating this have obviously NOT seem the Rivethead design and wha
t it has accomplished. That said=2C Phil's idea would work very well also.
I just finished the latches on my doors using the Rivethead method. Those d
oors are going nowhere unless the door can bulge out about 12" in the middl
e. Not likely. (I hope=2C otherwise I got other problems ). Dan
> Date: Tue=2C 6 Oct 2009 09:14:17 -0700
> From: deemsdavis@cox.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Pin - Idea
>
>
> Phil=2C I think the bushing idea=2C accomplishes much of the same thing t
hat
> the Rivethead/Dineri Receivers do. Why not just install them?
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
> Perry=2C Phil wrote:
> >
> > Good morning=2C
> >
> > I haven=92t reached the door fitting section of the kit yet=2C but I ha
ve
> > spent some time reviewing the plans (thank Tim) to get an idea how
> > they function.
> >
> > This morning I woke up with an idea that might solve the door issue.
> >
> > I=92m going to boil the door issue down to a couple of widely accepted
> > statements.
> >
> > 1) The Nylon blocks are only there to act as a guide for the door pins
=3B
> >
> > 2) The door pins must extend completely through the aluminum frame.
> >
> > The idea (highly complex) is designed to transfer load from the nylon
> > block area and into the aluminum frame ' even if the pins do not full
y
> > extend in to the frame.
> >
> > Attached is a drawing and it involves installing a flanged bushing on
> > the backside of the aluminum frame. The only thing we will have to do
> > is slightly oversize the 7/16=94 hole (say 5/8=94) in the aluminum. The
> > bushing will bring the hole size back down to 7/16=94. The cabin top an
d
> > the nylon block will also have to be drilled larger to accommodate the
> > bushing. (~5/8=94)
> >
> > Now we install the bushing from the back side of the aluminum frame.
> > The flange sits firmly against the aluminum and extends (towards the
> > door) through the aluminum=2C cabin top=2C and nylon block.
> >
> > At the nylon block=2C we have a couple of options with the bushing.
> >
> > 1) We can cut the bushing off flush with the nylon block=3B or
> >
> > 2) Extend the bushing some distance (maybe 1/16=94 or 1/8=94 ' really
> > depends on how your doors fit) to extend the carry through closer to
> > the door. This way a door pin that would typically fall short of
> > engaging could be captured by the bushing=3B or
> >
> > 3) If we use the proper material=2C we could add a flare to the door
> > side and the flare would act as a door pin guide through the material
> > and into the door frame.
> >
> > Finally=2C if your door pins go all the way through the metal today '
> > nothing changes. You=92re still good ' but just have a little extra
> > protection against the not-so-fully-engaged door pin.
> >
> > This would also help with the door bulge theory by bringing some
> > structural support further up the door pins.
> >
> > Anyone have any thoughts? I think I=92m going to call around to a coupl
e
> > of local machine shops.
> >
> > Phil
>=====================
>===============
>
>
>
Hotmail: Free=2C trusted and rich email s='_new'>Get it now. http://www
.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.mat
ronics.com/contribution
=0A
_________________________________________________________________=0A
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.=0A
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Door Pin - Idea |
The whole sentence below changes with one missed word!!!
Linn
Linn Walters wrote:
>
> Good idea Phil! Not having given it much thought since I read your
> email, I have this small comment. I'd use an oilite bushing .....
> because they can be bought in almost any size, and most come with the
> flange. I'd put the flange on the door side .... otherwise the pins may
> push it through into the fuse. If you leave the aluminum hole the same
> size of the pin, then you can use the aluminum to control how deep the
> bearing will go.
Just a thought ..... may be easier and less expensive THAN to have a
machine shop build something.
> Linn
> do not archive.
>
> Perry, Phil wrote:
>> Good morning,
>>
>>
>>
>> I havent reached the door fitting section of the kit yet, but I have
>> spent some time reviewing the plans (thank Tim) to get an idea how
>> they function.
>>
>>
>>
>> This morning I woke up with an idea that might solve the door issue.
>>
>>
>>
>> Im going to boil the door issue down to a couple of widely accepted
>> statements.
>>
>> 1) The Nylon blocks are only there to act as a guide for the door
>> pins ;
>>
>> 2) The door pins must extend completely through the aluminum frame.
>>
>>
>>
>> The idea (highly complex) is designed to transfer load from the nylon
>> block area and into the aluminum frame even if the pins do not fully
>> extend in to the frame.
>>
>>
>>
>> Attached is a drawing and it involves installing a flanged bushing on
>> the backside of the aluminum frame. The only thing we will have to do
>> is slightly oversize the 7/16 hole (say 5/8) in the aluminum. The
>> bushing will bring the hole size back down to 7/16. The cabin top
>> and the nylon block will also have to be drilled larger to accommodate
>> the bushing. (~5/8)
>>
>>
>>
>> Now we install the bushing from the back side of the aluminum frame.
>> The flange sits firmly against the aluminum and extends (towards the
>> door) through the aluminum, cabin top, and nylon block.
>>
>>
>>
>> At the nylon block, we have a couple of options with the bushing.
>>
>> 1) We can cut the bushing off flush with the nylon block; or
>>
>> 2) Extend the bushing some distance (maybe 1/16 or 1/8 really
>> depends on how your doors fit) to extend the carry through closer to
>> the door. This way a door pin that would typically fall short of
>> engaging could be captured by the bushing; or
>>
>> 3) If we use the proper material, we could add a flare to the
>> door side and the flare would act as a door pin guide through the
>> material and into the door frame.
>>
>>
>>
>> Finally, if your door pins go all the way through the metal today
>> nothing changes. Youre still good but just have a little extra
>> protection against the not-so-fully-engaged door pin.
>>
>>
>>
>> This would also help with the door bulge theory by bringing some
>> structural support further up the door pins.
>>
>>
>>
>> Anyone have any thoughts? I think Im going to call around to a
>> couple of local machine shops.
>>
>>
>>
>> Phil
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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Maybe a simple striker plate in the same plane as the nylon guide, mounted
behind it, and extending a few millimeters outside the door frame.
Sure, you'd have to recess the door trailing edge slightly to allow the
plate to protrude through the closed door, but it would serve a couple of
purposes.
a) be an extra metal guide and solid holding point for the pin, prior
to entering the frame and
b) be an effective barrier against the rear pin slipping to the outside
of the frame. If you can't close the door, you haven't captured the guide.
John 40315
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Wednesday, 7 October 2009 2:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Pin - Idea
Phil,
That's along the right track, but if you look at the nylon blocks you can
see that the pin hole is drilled at a slight angle, I think in order to pull
the pins inboard. Either that, or the angle is supposed to help compensate
for the nonparallel fiberglass surface. Whichever, the blocks actually do
see some load. Whether that's by design is debatable. Results suggest that
they certainly do see a load, and aren't just acting as guides.
The bushing would increase the amount of contact area, which is needed. I
see your bushing being in line with the pin, so it wouldn't supply any
inward tension. Also, if the nylon block is supporting the bushing, I think
it might rock around a bit and eventually tear up the block.
Metal guide blocks do essentially the same thing as the bushing, and also
provide the inward tension.
Here's one of my blocks before it got upgraded.
IMG_2734.JPG
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 8:52 AM, Perry, Phil <Phil.Perry@netapp.com> wrote:
Good morning,
I haven't reached the door fitting section of the kit yet, but I have spent
some time reviewing the plans (thank Tim) to get an idea how they function.
This morning I woke up with an idea that might solve the door issue.
I'm going to boil the door issue down to a couple of widely accepted
statements.
1) The Nylon blocks are only there to act as a guide for the door pins
;
2) The door pins must extend completely through the aluminum frame.
The idea (highly complex) is designed to transfer load from the nylon block
area and into the aluminum frame - even if the pins do not fully extend in
to the frame.
Attached is a drawing and it involves installing a flanged bushing on the
backside of the aluminum frame. The only thing we will have to do is
slightly oversize the 7/16" hole (say 5/8") in the aluminum. The bushing
will bring the hole size back down to 7/16". The cabin top and the nylon
block will also have to be drilled larger to accommodate the bushing.
(~5/8")
Now we install the bushing from the back side of the aluminum frame. The
flange sits firmly against the aluminum and extends (towards the door)
through the aluminum, cabin top, and nylon block.
At the nylon block, we have a couple of options with the bushing.
1) We can cut the bushing off flush with the nylon block; or
2) Extend the bushing some distance (maybe 1/16" or 1/8" - really
depends on how your doors fit) to extend the carry through closer to the
door. This way a door pin that would typically fall short of engaging
could be captured by the bushing; or
3) If we use the proper material, we could add a flare to the door side
and the flare would act as a door pin guide through the material and into
the door frame.
Finally, if your door pins go all the way through the metal today - nothing
changes. You're still good - but just have a little extra protection
against the not-so-fully-engaged door pin.
This would also help with the door bulge theory by bringing some structural
support further up the door pins.
Anyone have any thoughts? I think I'm going to call around to a couple of
local machine shops.
Phil
Message 25
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|
Love this idea. I was actually toying with striker plates myself -
someone WILL attempt to close the door with the pins extended at some
stage. Without a striker plate, paint damage is inevitable. The worst
case I have seen is where the door pin has actually been forced between
the fuse skin and the frame - not pretty.
cheers,
Ron
VH-XRM
flying on Oz
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Sent: Wednesday, 7 October 2009 10:04 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Pin - Idea
Maybe a simple striker plate in the same plane as the nylon guide,
mounted behind it, and extending a few millimeters outside the door
frame.
Sure, you'd have to recess the door trailing edge slightly to allow the
plate to protrude through the closed door, but it would serve a couple
of purposes.
a) be an extra metal guide and solid holding point for the pin,
prior to entering the frame and
b) be an effective barrier against the rear pin slipping to the
outside of the frame. If you can't close the door, you haven't captured
the guide.
John 40315
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Wednesday, 7 October 2009 2:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Pin - Idea
Phil,
That's along the right track, but if you look at the nylon blocks you
can see that the pin hole is drilled at a slight angle, I think in order
to pull the pins inboard. Either that, or the angle is supposed to help
compensate for the nonparallel fiberglass surface. Whichever, the
blocks actually do see some load. Whether that's by design is
debatable. Results suggest that they certainly do see a load, and
aren't just acting as guides.
The bushing would increase the amount of contact area, which is needed.
I see your bushing being in line with the pin, so it wouldn't supply any
inward tension. Also, if the nylon block is supporting the bushing, I
think it might rock around a bit and eventually tear up the block.
Metal guide blocks do essentially the same thing as the bushing, and
also provide the inward tension.
Here's one of my blocks before it got upgraded.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 8:52 AM, Perry, Phil <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
wrote:
Good morning,
I haven't reached the door fitting section of the kit yet, but I have
spent some time reviewing the plans (thank Tim) to get an idea how they
function.
This morning I woke up with an idea that might solve the door issue.
I'm going to boil the door issue down to a couple of widely accepted
statements.
1) The Nylon blocks are only there to act as a guide for the door
pins ;
2) The door pins must extend completely through the aluminum frame.
The idea (highly complex) is designed to transfer load from the nylon
block area and into the aluminum frame - even if the pins do not fully
extend in to the frame.
Attached is a drawing and it involves installing a flanged bushing on
the backside of the aluminum frame. The only thing we will have to do
is slightly oversize the 7/16" hole (say 5/8") in the aluminum. The
bushing will bring the hole size back down to 7/16". The cabin top and
the nylon block will also have to be drilled larger to accommodate the
bushing. (~5/8")
Now we install the bushing from the back side of the aluminum frame.
The flange sits firmly against the aluminum and extends (towards the
door) through the aluminum, cabin top, and nylon block.
At the nylon block, we have a couple of options with the bushing.
1) We can cut the bushing off flush with the nylon block; or
2) Extend the bushing some distance (maybe 1/16" or 1/8" - really
depends on how your doors fit) to extend the carry through closer to the
door. This way a door pin that would typically fall short of engaging
could be captured by the bushing; or
3) If we use the proper material, we could add a flare to the door
side and the flare would act as a door pin guide through the material
and into the door frame.
Finally, if your door pins go all the way through the metal today -
nothing changes. You're still good - but just have a little extra
protection against the not-so-fully-engaged door pin.
This would also help with the door bulge theory by bringing some
structural support further up the door pins.
Anyone have any thoughts? I think I'm going to call around to a couple
of local machine shops.
Phil
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We ground down some of the fiberglass and epoxyed some S/S plates where
the pins would hit if one were to close the door with the pins extended.
We then had the painter mask off this area prior to paint. So far so
good. I have also seen someone that just bent a piece of metal around
the edge of the body held in place by the same screws that hold the
nylon glide (as described below). I prefer the inset piece for better
lines, fit & finish plus more aero.
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGann, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 4:52 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Pin - Idea
Love this idea. I was actually toying with striker plates myself -
someone WILL attempt to close the door with the pins extended at some
stage. Without a striker plate, paint damage is inevitable. The worst
case I have seen is where the door pin has actually been forced between
the fuse skin and the frame - not pretty.
cheers,
Ron
VH-XRM
flying on Oz
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Sent: Wednesday, 7 October 2009 10:04 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Pin - Idea
Maybe a simple striker plate in the same plane as the nylon guide,
mounted behind it, and extending a few millimeters outside the door
frame.
Sure, you'd have to recess the door trailing edge slightly to allow the
plate to protrude through the closed door, but it would serve a couple
of purposes.
a) be an extra metal guide and solid holding point for the pin,
prior to entering the frame and
b) be an effective barrier against the rear pin slipping to the
outside of the frame. If you can't close the door, you haven't captured
the guide.
John 40315
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Wednesday, 7 October 2009 2:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Pin - Idea
Phil,
That's along the right track, but if you look at the nylon blocks you
can see that the pin hole is drilled at a slight angle, I think in order
to pull the pins inboard. Either that, or the angle is supposed to help
compensate for the nonparallel fiberglass surface. Whichever, the
blocks actually do see some load. Whether that's by design is
debatable. Results suggest that they certainly do see a load, and
aren't just acting as guides.
The bushing would increase the amount of contact area, which is needed.
I see your bushing being in line with the pin, so it wouldn't supply any
inward tension. Also, if the nylon block is supporting the bushing, I
think it might rock around a bit and eventually tear up the block.
Metal guide blocks do essentially the same thing as the bushing, and
also provide the inward tension.
Here's one of my blocks before it got upgraded.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 8:52 AM, Perry, Phil <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
wrote:
Good morning,
I haven't reached the door fitting section of the kit yet, but I have
spent some time reviewing the plans (thank Tim) to get an idea how they
function.
This morning I woke up with an idea that might solve the door issue.
I'm going to boil the door issue down to a couple of widely accepted
statements.
1) The Nylon blocks are only there to act as a guide for the door
pins ;
2) The door pins must extend completely through the aluminum frame.
The idea (highly complex) is designed to transfer load from the nylon
block area and into the aluminum frame - even if the pins do not fully
extend in to the frame.
Attached is a drawing and it involves installing a flanged bushing on
the backside of the aluminum frame. The only thing we will have to do
is slightly oversize the 7/16" hole (say 5/8") in the aluminum. The
bushing will bring the hole size back down to 7/16". The cabin top and
the nylon block will also have to be drilled larger to accommodate the
bushing. (~5/8")
Now we install the bushing from the back side of the aluminum frame.
The flange sits firmly against the aluminum and extends (towards the
door) through the aluminum, cabin top, and nylon block.
At the nylon block, we have a couple of options with the bushing.
1) We can cut the bushing off flush with the nylon block; or
2) Extend the bushing some distance (maybe 1/16" or 1/8" - really
depends on how your doors fit) to extend the carry through closer to the
door. This way a door pin that would typically fall short of engaging
could be captured by the bushing; or
3) If we use the proper material, we could add a flare to the door
side and the flare would act as a door pin guide through the material
and into the door frame.
Finally, if your door pins go all the way through the metal today -
nothing changes. You're still good - but just have a little extra
protection against the not-so-fully-engaged door pin.
This would also help with the door bulge theory by bringing some
structural support further up the door pins.
Anyone have any thoughts? I think I'm going to call around to a couple
of local machine shops.
Phil
DISCLAIMER:-------------------------------------------------------------
-------------- This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and
previous e-mail messages attached to it are private and confidential.
They may contain proprietary or copyright material or information that
is subject to legal professional privilege. They are for the use of the
intended recipient only. Any unauthorised viewing, use, disclosure,
copying, alteration, storage or distribution of, or reliance on, this
message is strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or
transmitted without the written permission of the owner. If you have
received this transmission in error, or are not an authorised recipient,
please immediately notify the sender by return email, delete this
message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any printed
copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient should not
be deemed a waiver of any privilege or protection. Thales Australia does
not warrant or represent that this e-mail or any documents, files and
previous e-mail messages attached are error or virus free.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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