Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:18 AM - Re: QB Fuselage Question (Bill Cannon)
2. 06:52 AM - Re: Re: QB Fuselage Question (Kelly McMullen)
3. 09:27 AM - Re: Seat Belt Tip (David McNeill)
4. 02:38 PM - Gas Strut installation (Eric_Kallio)
5. 03:02 PM - Re: Gas Strut installation (Deems Davis)
6. 03:02 PM - Re: Re: QB Fuselage Question (Perry, Phil)
7. 05:15 PM - Align your the gear legs! (Strasnuts)
8. 05:21 PM - Re: Gas Strut installation (Deems Davis)
9. 05:45 PM - Re: Align your the gear legs! (Ron B.)
10. 05:52 PM - Re: Align your the gear legs! (Strasnuts)
11. 06:02 PM - Re: [Bulk] Align your the gear legs! (Linn Walters)
12. 06:56 PM - Re: Re: Copperstate RV10 nest (Pascal)
13. 06:56 PM - baffles for Eci tapered Cylinders (Pascal)
14. 07:13 PM - Re: [Bulk] Align your the gear legs! (Seano)
15. 07:25 PM - Re: baffles for Eci tapered Cylinders (Tim Olson)
16. 07:42 PM - Re: Gas Strut installation (Carl Froehlich)
17. 08:10 PM - Re: [Bulk] Align your the gear legs! (David McNeill)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuselage Question |
My QB fuse came in the container after Phil's. I have some of the same issues
with the longerons and torques but the floor panels seem lined up.
A couple of things I have come across in the past few days while inspecting and
checking off the steps.
1. The bottom aft skin was drilled and dimpled where the F-1006B bulkhead and
tailcone bottom skin are supposed to be match drilled to it. I talked to Vans
and was given two options.... flatten out the dimples and match drill as per
instructions or trust the pre punches are lined up correctly. I have trusted
the pre punch in the past when replacing a skin on an elevator and everything
worked out fine by just drilling the holes in the skin to size and dimpling.
I am thinking I will just drill the tailcone by itself, dimple it and the put
it together with the holes that are already done on the fuselage.
2. The inboard and outboard forward seat rail supports were riveted to the bulkheads(F-1043A
L&R) using AN470 rivets instead of 426s. 470 is correct for the
bottom 4 rivets but the top two need to be 426s to get the F-1043D to lay flat
on the front to the seat bottom assembly. Since they were right at the edge
of the front panel I cut notches in the panel to allow the 470s to remain without
pushing out the panel. There are already holes or notches where bolt heads
protrude so I saw no problem in doing this. It's somewhat of a puzzle getting
the panel off without removing the gear bracket but it can be done.
3. The F-1004M wear strip was not installed by QB and no parts provided in kit.
Vans is sending the parts
4. The flap actuator brackets (F-1066B L&R) are cut into left and right. Right
is installed now and Left is retained for attaching the actuator. Right is
riveted to the plane and the left is in the Phillipines. A new part is coming
from Vans.
5. I remember reading somewhere that the QB process involved priming. Either
the primer they are using is clear or it was not done. The metal is nice and
greasy though [Shocked]
Just thought I'd add to the list to help anyone else out there trying to get through
the QB check.
bill
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270217#270217
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuselage Question |
Yeah, the "primer" allegedly is clear with no solids content. How this
protects the metal is a mystery to me. The metal appears to have been
scuffed. Whatever the coating, it must be very thin. There must be a big
collection of snap bushings in the Phillipines as none got in the QB nor
the parts kit. It is a shame that Van's apparently is depending 100% on
builders to do QC.
Bill Cannon wrote:
>
> My QB fuse came in the container after Phil's. I have some of the same issues
with the longerons and torques but the floor panels seem lined up.
>
> A couple of things I have come across in the past few days while inspecting and
checking off the steps.
>
> 1. The bottom aft skin was drilled and dimpled where the F-1006B bulkhead and
tailcone bottom skin are supposed to be match drilled to it. I talked to Vans
and was given two options.... flatten out the dimples and match drill as per
instructions or trust the pre punches are lined up correctly. I have trusted
the pre punch in the past when replacing a skin on an elevator and everything
worked out fine by just drilling the holes in the skin to size and dimpling.
I am thinking I will just drill the tailcone by itself, dimple it and the put
it together with the holes that are already done on the fuselage.
>
> 2. The inboard and outboard forward seat rail supports were riveted to the bulkheads(F-1043A
L&R) using AN470 rivets instead of 426s. 470 is correct for
the bottom 4 rivets but the top two need to be 426s to get the F-1043D to lay
flat on the front to the seat bottom assembly. Since they were right at the edge
of the front panel I cut notches in the panel to allow the 470s to remain
without pushing out the panel. There are already holes or notches where bolt
heads protrude so I saw no problem in doing this. It's somewhat of a puzzle getting
the panel off without removing the gear bracket but it can be done.
>
> 3. The F-1004M wear strip was not installed by QB and no parts provided in kit.
Vans is sending the parts
>
> 4. The flap actuator brackets (F-1066B L&R) are cut into left and right. Right
is installed now and Left is retained for attaching the actuator. Right
is riveted to the plane and the left is in the Phillipines. A new part is coming
from Vans.
>
> 5. I remember reading somewhere that the QB process involved priming. Either
the primer they are using is clear or it was not done. The metal is nice and
greasy though [Shocked]
>
> Just thought I'd add to the list to help anyone else out there trying to get
through the QB check.
>
> bill
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270217#270217
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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Anyone interested in the premium belts should probably consider the AMSAFE
TSOed inertial reel belts designed for the RV10; they are available in
almost any color. I took the website off line because I thought interest had
waned. John Miller, Rene Velker and myself have AMSAFE belts if you want to
discuss. There are a few others but I can not remember their names.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 3:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Seat Belt Tip
To all of those builders that have yet to purchase their seat belts I have a
little info for you.
Some of you know I made my own belts by purchasing a few sets of Drifter
rotary release 4 point belts on eBay. They are dirt cheap as in under $40.00
a set. I did have to do a little sewing but they worked out exceptionally
well. I had always planned to upgrade to a premium belt at some point so I
took the plunge and purchase a full set of Rotary Release Hooker's with the
air show 10% discount. This had them delivered for ~$1,350.00. Yes expensive
but top quality for sure. Unfortunately they arrived in the wrong color so I
sent them back. When the replacements arrived I installed them with almost
no problems (you have to grind down and insert to the anchor end of each
belt). They looked great. They are however stiff, heavy and somewhat
uncomfortable. Worst of all the waistband adjustment mechanisms are too
close to the attachment point preventing them from opening to the point
where I can pull slack. This happens on both sides of the waist band as I
have a center console that also conflicts with the adjustment mechanism. The
rear seats are another story because I ordered the shoulder and lap bands
with pads which I assumed were removable. Unfortunately a fully tight lap
band for the rear seat is still larger than my 16-year-old daughter's waste
by about 4 inches. There is no way she can be safely strapped in using those
belts. It would probably be another story without the lap pads. For me to
correct this issue I will have to send the seatbelts back again.
The tip I am offering comes in the form of the another brand of seatbelts I
happened to see on an RV-8. They looked different but every bit as nice as
the Hooker harnesses plus more comfortable for a fraction of the price. The
brand is called Crow Enterprises Inc. can be found at this address:
http://www.crowenterprizes.com/an online search for pricing has the five way
Rotary release selling for $140 to $155. They sell the leaver release and
belts for about half that price. This places the Rotary release belts at a
50% discount to the discounted Hooker belts.
I have attached a photo from the RV-8 for your review.
Robin
Message 4
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| Subject: | Gas Strut installation |
I am working on the gas strut installation for the doors. Ran into a bit of a problem.
The gas strut itself is over an inch too long to fit between the attachment
points. I have looked at adjusting the attachment points, but am already
at the edge of the window on the door and can't move the mount on the canopy
any further down to open the gap. The gas struts from Vans aren't adjustable.
Does anyone have experience with a similar situation, or have recommentdations
for adjustable struts that will work for this application? Thanks.
Eric Kallio
Fitting the doors...still
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270267#270267
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| Subject: | Re: Gas Strut installation |
Eric, is your door fully open? I had to trim some of the top of the door
in order to allow for it to fully open without binding on the cabin
cover. If your bracket is at the edge of the window and your door is
fully open, I'd suspect that you may have received the wrong part from
Van's ???
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2045%20Cabin%20Doors%20and%20Transparancies/slides/DSC03667.html
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Eric_Kallio wrote:
>
> I am working on the gas strut installation for the doors. Ran into a bit of a
problem. The gas strut itself is over an inch too long to fit between the attachment
points. I have looked at adjusting the attachment points, but am already
at the edge of the window on the door and can't move the mount on the canopy
any further down to open the gap. The gas struts from Vans aren't adjustable.
Does anyone have experience with a similar situation, or have recommentdations
for adjustable struts that will work for this application? Thanks.
>
> Eric Kallio
> Fitting the doors...still
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270267#270267
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuselage Question |
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Align your the gear legs! |
I finally got to a point where I could mount my landing gear legs. I spoke with
Scott Schmidt about the alignment issues he has had with his gear. He has a
main gear shimmy while decelerating through 30 knots. He has tried changing tire
brands and balancing the wheel. He has also told me that his gear leg might
be toed out.
When I mounted mine yesterday, it was obvious the left gear was toed out and the
right gear was toed in (visually). I called Van's and spoke with Ken. He said
they had no issues in the past but that doesn't mean they're not wrong. We
also wanted more proof than a visual check. which I can't blame him. I called
Scott and he came over to see it and brought his giant man brain with him.
We pulled some lines off of the gear and axles to check alignment and confirmed
they were way off. What I ended up doing was making each side toed in. The
right one lined up with the factory hole and came out at 1.33 degrees toed in
and 7 degrees camber with no weight on the axle. I also measured to a point
on the tail from the axle. On the left I could visually see the factory hole
was off. Keep in mind that barely off by less than a 32nd is a huge change on
the axle both camber and toe in. It was amazing how far off the factory hole
was. I tack welded the top of the gear mount and gear leg together so they
wouldn't move while I drilled a new hole. I used a tapered reamer which only
made the first gear mount hole oval. I then reamed the new gear mount hole, gear
leg and made the new opening on the other end of the mount. It didn't oval
the backside gear mount hole since it is undersized to begin with. I used the
factory bolt, AN5-24A, which felt great. I can't imagine it will move with
the four weld tacks on the top and the other parts being snug. I now have two
gear axles that are the same toe in and camber. It also made the measurements
within a 1/16th which I made from the axle to a point on the tail. I don't
know if the gear legs are drilled wrong at the factory or the gear mount holes
are off.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270286#270286
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Gas Strut installation |
Is it possible your bracket is mounted 180 degs? That would make the
strut about an 1" too long?
Deems Davis
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> Eric, is your door fully open? I had to trim some of the top of the
> door in order to allow for it to fully open without binding on the
> cabin cover. If your bracket is at the edge of the window and your
> door is fully open, I'd suspect that you may have received the wrong
> part from Van's ???
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2045%20Cabin%20Doors%20and%20Transparancies/slides/DSC03667.html
>
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
> Eric_Kallio wrote:
>>
>> I am working on the gas strut installation for the doors. Ran into a
>> bit of a problem. The gas strut itself is over an inch too long to
>> fit between the attachment points. I have looked at adjusting the
>> attachment points, but am already at the edge of the window on the
>> door and can't move the mount on the canopy any further down to open
>> the gap. The gas struts from Vans aren't adjustable. Does anyone have
>> experience with a similar situation, or have recommentdations for
>> adjustable struts that will work for this application? Thanks.
>>
>> Eric Kallio
>> Fitting the doors...still
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270267#270267
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Align your the gear legs! |
I'm by no means an expert. I don't think the tack weld is a good idea. With all
the flexing the gear is going to experience , the mount needs to be able to move.
I'm thinking of a car frame. It's riveted and bolted together so it can move
a little. A friend was rebuilding a frame and welded it together and later
had cracks. I know it's bolted together also, but it sounds like the hole is
oval and you are relying on the tack welds. Please check this out with someone
that knows.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270288#270288
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Align your the gear legs! |
The tack welds are just there to hold it while I ream the hole. It is still really
close to the original holes plus it is just one side of the gear mount hole
that was affected. If I get more negative feedback, I will barely oversize
the entire hole and get a new bolt and grind the tack welds off.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270289#270289
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Align your the gear legs! |
This is timely. I was having a discussion with an owner of an aircraft
with the tapered rod gear ..... about which is better, toe in, or toe
out. Visualize what happens when the gear leg gets weight on it and the
tire moves outward. The tire tilts inboard. What happens to your
wheelbarrow when the tire does that? It turns in the direction of the
lean. With the dynamics of a landing, when pressure is put on that
landing gear, and it moves out .... it wants to turn under the nose
....... and the weight of the aircraft shifts more to that side. And
the matter gets worse .... and you're now a passenger on a merry go round.
I've given this activity a lot of thought ..... primarily in relation to
my Pitts special. It has spring aluminum gear instead of the bungee
gear. With the aluminum gear, I have none of the tendency to
ground-loop ... it's stiffer than the bungee gear.
I can only assume (yeah, I know!) that the typical wear on the inside of
the RV tires is due to the amount of scrubbing as the tire moves out to
the side in a landing, so the movement is significant. What I've been
talking about is called 'camber' .... not 'toe'. However, I think that
if there is toe-in, the results are going to be the same as I describe.
Since the axle will also move aft due to the way the gear is mounted,
THEN the change in toe-in will increase. So, now we have two
contributions to causing the wheel with weight on it to want to turn
under the nose.
Please find fault in my reasoning here ...... so I don't create a
problem when I drill my gear.
Now this leads to the question about ..... the wooden stiffeners that
the other RV's have been adding to their gear. Any thoughts here???
Linn
do not archive .... speculation in process.
Strasnuts wrote:
>
> I finally got to a point where I could mount my landing gear legs. I spoke with
Scott Schmidt about the alignment issues he has had with his gear. He has
a main gear shimmy while decelerating through 30 knots. He has tried changing
tire brands and balancing the wheel. He has also told me that his gear leg might
be toed out.
> When I mounted mine yesterday, it was obvious the left gear was toed out and
the right gear was toed in (visually). I called Van's and spoke with Ken. He
said they had no issues in the past but that doesn't mean they're not wrong.
We also wanted more proof than a visual check. which I can't blame him. I called
Scott and he came over to see it and brought his giant man brain with him.
We pulled some lines off of the gear and axles to check alignment and confirmed
they were way off. What I ended up doing was making each side toed in.
The right one lined up with the factory hole and came out at 1.33 degrees toed
in and 7 degrees camber with no weight on the axle. I also measured to a point
on the tail from the axle. On the left I could visually see the factory hole
was off. Keep in mind that barely off by less than a 32nd is a huge change
on the axle both camber and toe in. It was amazing how far off the factory hole
was. I tack welded the top of the gear mount and !
> gear leg together so they wouldn't move while I drilled a new hole. I used
a tapered reamer which only made the first gear mount hole oval. I then reamed
the new gear mount hole, gear leg and made the new opening on the other end
of the mount. It didn't oval the backside gear mount hole since it is undersized
to begin with. I used the factory bolt, AN5-24A, which felt great. I can't
imagine it will move with the four weld tacks on the top and the other parts
being snug. I now have two gear axles that are the same toe in and camber.
It also made the measurements within a 1/16th which I made from the axle to a
point on the tail. I don't know if the gear legs are drilled wrong at the factory
or the gear mount holes are off.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270286#270286
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Copperstate RV10 nest |
Myron;
Back finally from my visit to Arizona. Wanted to thank you for the effort to
put the carne asada together last weekend at Casa Grande. Meeting everyone
there, Deems, Robin, John Cox, David and Jim Perry was, by far, the
highlight of the Flyin experience for me on Saturday.
Greatly appreciated!
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "woxofswa" <woxof@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 12:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate RV10 nest
>
> There was a tanned silvered haired fellow that came for lunch. I didn't
> catch his name and I believe he came as a guest of another builder.
>
> He came back when we were packing up and got a couple of drinks out of the
> cooler inside the trailer. I am pretty sure that he is the fellow who
> left the camera. If he sounds familiar to anyone please help me get this
> camera back to him.
>
> Myron
> 602 421 2868
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269881#269881
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | baffles for Eci tapered Cylinders |
Any one have experience with using the Van's Baffles with Eci tapered
cylinders. I am on the fence on whether to take make my own or get the
Van's baffle. I would rather use the Van's baffles and make the Eci
modification but my understanding is that it's a lot of work to modify
the baffles.
Anyone who has done this, please let me know you're experience.
Thank you!
Pascal
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Align your the gear legs! |
Ken at Van's stated they shoot for 0 to two degree toe in. Braking will
also pull the gear toe out after landing.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Bulk] RV10-List: Align your the gear legs!
>
> This is timely. I was having a discussion with an owner of an aircraft
> with the tapered rod gear ..... about which is better, toe in, or toe out.
> Visualize what happens when the gear leg gets weight on it and the tire
> moves outward. The tire tilts inboard. What happens to your wheelbarrow
> when the tire does that? It turns in the direction of the lean. With the
> dynamics of a landing, when pressure is put on that landing gear, and it
> moves out .... it wants to turn under the nose ....... and the weight of
> the aircraft shifts more to that side. And the matter gets worse .... and
> you're now a passenger on a merry go round.
> I've given this activity a lot of thought ..... primarily in relation to
> my Pitts special. It has spring aluminum gear instead of the bungee gear.
> With the aluminum gear, I have none of the tendency to ground-loop ...
> it's stiffer than the bungee gear.
> I can only assume (yeah, I know!) that the typical wear on the inside of
> the RV tires is due to the amount of scrubbing as the tire moves out to
> the side in a landing, so the movement is significant. What I've been
> talking about is called 'camber' .... not 'toe'. However, I think that if
> there is toe-in, the results are going to be the same as I describe.
> Since the axle will also move aft due to the way the gear is mounted, THEN
> the change in toe-in will increase. So, now we have two contributions to
> causing the wheel with weight on it to want to turn under the nose.
>
> Please find fault in my reasoning here ...... so I don't create a problem
> when I drill my gear.
> Now this leads to the question about ..... the wooden stiffeners that the
> other RV's have been adding to their gear. Any thoughts here???
> Linn
>
> do not archive .... speculation in process.
>
> Strasnuts wrote:
>>
>> I finally got to a point where I could mount my landing gear legs. I
>> spoke with Scott Schmidt about the alignment issues he has had with his
>> gear. He has a main gear shimmy while decelerating through 30 knots. He
>> has tried changing tire brands and balancing the wheel. He has also told
>> me that his gear leg might be toed out. When I mounted mine yesterday,
>> it was obvious the left gear was toed out and the right gear was toed in
>> (visually). I called Van's and spoke with Ken. He said they had no
>> issues in the past but that doesn't mean they're not wrong. We also
>> wanted more proof than a visual check. which I can't blame him. I called
>> Scott and he came over to see it and brought his giant man brain with
>> him. We pulled some lines off of the gear and axles to check alignment
>> and confirmed they were way off. What I ended up doing was making each
>> side toed in. The right one lined up with the factory hole and came out
>> at 1.33 degrees toed in and 7 degrees camber with no weight on the axle.
>> I also measured to a point on the tail from the axle. On the left I
>> could visually see the factory hole was off. Keep in mind that barely
>> off by less than a 32nd is a huge change on the axle both camber and toe
>> in. It was amazing how far off the factory hole was. I tack welded the
>> top of the gear mount an!
> d !
>> gear leg together so they wouldn't move while I drilled a new hole. I
>> used a tapered reamer which only made the first gear mount hole oval. I
>> then reamed the new gear mount hole, gear leg and made the new opening on
>> the other end of the mount. It didn't oval the backside gear mount hole
>> since it is undersized to begin with. I used the factory bolt, AN5-24A,
>> which felt great. I can't imagine it will move with the four weld tacks
>> on the top and the other parts being snug. I now have two gear axles
>> that are the same toe in and camber. It also made the measurements
>> within a 1/16th which I made from the axle to a point on the tail. I
>> don't know if the gear legs are drilled wrong at the factory or the gear
>> mount holes are off.
>>
>> --------
>> Cust. #40936
>> RV-10 SB Fuselage
>> N801VR reserved
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270286#270286
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: baffles for Eci tapered Cylinders |
It's not a lot of work for a new install. I'd buy the Eci inter
cylinder baffles for those cylinders though.
Tim
On Oct 31, 2009, at 8:45 PM, "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
> Any one have experience with using the Van's Baffles with Eci
> tapered cylinders. I am on the fence on whether to take make my own
> or get the Van's baffle. I would rather use the Van's baffles and
> make the Eci modification but my understanding is that it's a lot of
> work to modify the baffles.
> Anyone who has done this, please let me know you're experience.
> Thank you!
>
> Pascal
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Gas Strut installation |
I had the same problem. After looking at the prints a few more times I
noted the attach bracket needed to be much further inboard than what the
door edge allowed. I had trim away enough of the door edge lip to move the
bracket to the correct location.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (500 hrs)
RV-10 (painting the interior)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 8:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gas Strut installation
Is it possible your bracket is mounted 180 degs? That would make the
strut about an 1" too long?
Deems Davis
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> Eric, is your door fully open? I had to trim some of the top of the
> door in order to allow for it to fully open without binding on the
> cabin cover. If your bracket is at the edge of the window and your
> door is fully open, I'd suspect that you may have received the wrong
> part from Van's ???
>
>
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2045%20Cabin%20Doors%20and%20Transparancies/s
lides/DSC03667.html
>
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
> Eric_Kallio wrote:
>>
>> I am working on the gas strut installation for the doors. Ran into a
>> bit of a problem. The gas strut itself is over an inch too long to
>> fit between the attachment points. I have looked at adjusting the
>> attachment points, but am already at the edge of the window on the
>> door and can't move the mount on the canopy any further down to open
>> the gap. The gas struts from Vans aren't adjustable. Does anyone have
>> experience with a similar situation, or have recommentdations for
>> adjustable struts that will work for this application? Thanks.
>>
>> Eric Kallio
>> Fitting the doors...still
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270267#270267
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Align your the gear legs! |
Generally tri gear airplanes have a little toe in; tail draggers have a
little toe out , all for stability. We tried checking alignment on the 10
but results were mixed. On my Glastar the factory procedure resulted in 3
degrees toe in per side when they stated that they wanted 1/3 of a degree
toe in. Fixing the problem involved hanging the aircraft on jacks and using
a magnetic laser attached to each wheel outboard. A line was shot to the
tail area where a plumb bob line was intersected. We rotated the legs in the
socket until a rectangle was formed by the laser shots and the line at the
tail and between the main gear. We then redrilled and upsized the gear bolt
to lock in the new toe in. it was almost zero; perhaps as much as 1/2 degree
toe in. We had a retired automotive suspension engineer consulting with us.
The result on the Glastar is that the sides of the tires are not being
scrubbed off by landing and taxiing. If the 10 tires exhibit the same
characteristics we will address the 10 the same way.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Bulk] RV10-List: Align your the gear legs!
--> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
This is timely. I was having a discussion with an owner of an aircraft with
the tapered rod gear ..... about which is better, toe in, or toe out.
Visualize what happens when the gear leg gets weight on it and the tire
moves outward. The tire tilts inboard. What happens to your wheelbarrow
when the tire does that? It turns in the direction of the lean. With the
dynamics of a landing, when pressure is put on that landing gear, and it
moves out .... it wants to turn under the nose ....... and the weight of the
aircraft shifts more to that side. And the matter gets worse .... and
you're now a passenger on a merry go round.
I've given this activity a lot of thought ..... primarily in relation to my
Pitts special. It has spring aluminum gear instead of the bungee gear.
With the aluminum gear, I have none of the tendency to ground-loop ... it's
stiffer than the bungee gear.
I can only assume (yeah, I know!) that the typical wear on the inside of the
RV tires is due to the amount of scrubbing as the tire moves out to
the side in a landing, so the movement is significant. What I've been
talking about is called 'camber' .... not 'toe'. However, I think that if
there is toe-in, the results are going to be the same as I describe.
Since the axle will also move aft due to the way the gear is mounted, THEN
the change in toe-in will increase. So, now we have two contributions to
causing the wheel with weight on it to want to turn under the nose.
Please find fault in my reasoning here ...... so I don't create a problem
when I drill my gear.
Now this leads to the question about ..... the wooden stiffeners that the
other RV's have been adding to their gear. Any thoughts here???
Linn
do not archive .... speculation in process.
Strasnuts wrote:
>
> I finally got to a point where I could mount my landing gear legs. I
spoke with Scott Schmidt about the alignment issues he has had with his
gear. He has a main gear shimmy while decelerating through 30 knots. He has
tried changing tire brands and balancing the wheel. He has also told me
that his gear leg might be toed out.
> When I mounted mine yesterday, it was obvious the left gear was toed out
and the right gear was toed in (visually). I called Van's and spoke with
Ken. He said they had no issues in the past but that doesn't mean they're
not wrong. We also wanted more proof than a visual check. which I can't
blame him. I called Scott and he came over to see it and brought his giant
man brain with him. We pulled some lines off of the gear and axles to check
alignment and confirmed they were way off. What I ended up doing was making
each side toed in. The right one lined up with the factory hole and came
out at 1.33 degrees toed in and 7 degrees camber with no weight on the axle.
I also measured to a point on the tail from the axle. On the left I could
visually see the factory hole was off. Keep in mind that barely off by less
than a 32nd is a huge change on the axle both camber and toe in. It was
amazing how far off the factory hole was. I tack welded the top of the gear
mount an!
d !
> gear leg together so they wouldn't move while I drilled a new hole. I
used a tapered reamer which only made the first gear mount hole oval. I
then reamed the new gear mount hole, gear leg and made the new opening on
the other end of the mount. It didn't oval the backside gear mount hole
since it is undersized to begin with. I used the factory bolt, AN5-24A,
which felt great. I can't imagine it will move with the four weld tacks on
the top and the other parts being snug. I now have two gear axles that are
the same toe in and camber. It also made the measurements within a 1/16th
which I made from the axle to a point on the tail. I don't know if the gear
legs are drilled wrong at the factory or the gear mount holes are off.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270286#270286
>
>
>
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