Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:09 AM - Reminder (Matt Dralle)
1. 12:11 AM - Re: Oil filter apology (Bob Turner)
2. 04:38 AM - Re: Voyager Lifetime chart subscription (orchidman)
3. 04:55 AM - Re: Re: Voyager Lifetime chart subscription (Tim Olson)
4. 04:55 AM - Re: Oil filter apology (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
5. 05:59 AM - Re: Re: Seat belts and windows (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
6. 06:18 AM - Re: Oil filter apology (Marcus Cooper)
7. 07:54 AM - Insurance-- hour threshold for decrease (Sheldon Olesen)
8. 08:18 AM - Re: Insurance-- hour threshold for decrease (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
9. 08:32 AM - Re: Insurance-- hour threshold for decrease (Tim Olson)
10. 08:36 AM - Re: Insurance-- hour threshold for decrease (David McNeill)
11. 08:41 AM - Re: Re: Way Off Topic: New PIC (Tim Olson)
12. 12:33 PM - Re: Way Off Topic: New PIC (orchidman)
13. 12:49 PM - Re: Re: Way Off Topic: New PIC (Dj Merrill)
14. 01:06 PM - UREM38E Spark Plugs For Sale (Barry Marz)
15. 02:57 PM - Re: AMSAFE seat belts (Jeff Carpenter)
16. 04:22 PM - Wayne Edgerton Could you please email me off line (Patrick Pulis)
17. 06:55 PM - Re: AMSAFE seat belts (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
18. 07:18 PM - Integrated rudder trim method (MikeInIrving)
19. 08:59 PM - Re: AMSAFE seat belts (David McNeill)
20. 09:08 PM - Re: Big Iron Envy (XeVision)
21. 09:12 PM - Re: Integrated rudder trim method (Robin Marks)
22. 09:15 PM - Re: Big Iron Envy (XeVision)
23. 09:34 PM - Re: Re: Big Iron Envy (Chris Colohan)
24. 10:05 PM - Re: Big Iron Envy (XeVision)
Message 0
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Dear Listers,
Just a quick reminder that November is the annual List Fund Raiser. The Matronics
Lists are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are provided
for my your Contributions during this time of the year.
Your personal Contribution makes a difference and keeps all of the Matronics Email
Lists and Forums completely ad-free.
Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Oil filter apology |
I can give you another reference point. Our stock 182 always used the 48110 and
the Cessna oil filter adaptor, until the last overhaul, when the adaptor was
replaced with the latest version, and the filter changed to a 48108. At least,
the shop put a sticker on the firewall, warning "Use only filters with an internal
relief valve".
So there are other adaptors that need the 48108 filter.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=271148#271148
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Voyager Lifetime chart subscription |
Tim Olson wrote:
> So, if you're overflowing a 32GB drive, you've got
> something else going on, but it isn't Voyager that's
> doing it.
>
I have a file dated 10/22/09 which is the last 28 day chart cycle update that is
18G in size. Looks like my last chart cycle update messed up. I have emailed
Seattle support and see what they say. I am not touching anything until I
coordinate it with them in case they need it for debugging.
After deleting that file, then my total usage looks like it will be in line with
yours.
Thanks
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=271161#271161
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Voyager Lifetime chart subscription |
Richard is at the aopa convention.
On Nov 5, 2009, at 6:36 AM, "orchidman" <gary@wingscc.com> wrote:
>
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>> So, if you're overflowing a 32GB drive, you've got
>> something else going on, but it isn't Voyager that's
>> doing it.
>>
>
> I have a file dated 10/22/09 which is the last 28 day chart cycle
> update that is 18G in size. Looks like my last chart cycle update
> messed up. I have emailed Seattle support and see what they say. I
> am not touching anything until I coordinate it with them in case
> they need it for debugging.
> After deleting that file, then my total usage looks like it will be
> in line with yours.
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> (N2GB Flying)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=271161#271161
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Oil filter apology |
The B&C angled adapter also uses the 48108. Their's actually has the filter number
engraved and the adapter.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
Sent: Wed Nov 04 21:46:49 2009
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil filter apology
Wow Sheldon, thanks for the update on the situation. It's actually
comforting to know that it was something so simple yet so confusing,
and not some other wild engine problem.
For the builders out there, make sure you read ALL of the line
in his post....don't just skim in. The 48110 filter is indeed
the right filter for many of us. And, for people who have
the adapter from ECI like Sheldon does, the 48108 is the right
one. So don't just skim the post without coming away with the
full understanding, or you may inadvertently get the wrong
filter.
Sheldon, do you know if ECI is basically the ONLY adapter that
we have to worry about this with? I know in my case I just
have the standard straight adapter, and I need to use the
48110 male thread filter. But I'm curious....does the B&C
or any other filter adapter bring potential issues for other
builders? Up until now, I basically thought the 48110 was
the "only" filter for our engines. Especially when you
see this page:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/2010Individual/Cat10304.pdf
The 48108 doesn't even list a 540 model...but as you found,
that's not the same if you run the ECI adapter.
Thanks for the post...I know a few TMX engine buyers, so
I'm sure it'll be something they'll want to know.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Sheldon Olesen wrote:
> On Aug 11, I made a post about my crushed Kelly oil filter and included
> pictures. I want to set the record straight. The failed filter was the
> wrong filter for the engine. I am both sorry for and embarrassed by my
> mistake. The difference between the correct filter(48108-1) and the
> incorrect filter(48110) is an internal oil bypass valve in the correct
> filter. I was unaware until about a week ago that there was any
> substantive difference between the two filters other than the 108 had
> female threads and the 110 had male threading. I'll explain how all of
> this happened.
>
> I was at home and going to do an Aircraft Spruce order and remembered
> that I needed more oil filters. I didn't remember the filter number so
> I looked it up in the A/C Spruce catalog where the IO-540 was listed
> under the 110 filter. When I got the 110's it was obvious that one
> filter(110) was male and the other filter (108) female. That wasn't a
> big problem because the male adapter for the ECI angled filter adapter
> came off with the 108 filter. I figured there was no sense of messing
> around with the male adapter if it comes off easily--just use the filter
> with the male threading built in. So I put the 110 filter on and flew
> with no indications that there were any problems until I took it off and
> found the filter media crushed inside the metal shell. This was around
> OSH time so I asked Kelly what might be the problem. The very short
> answer from them was the engine. I also asked the Mattituck guy what
> might be the problem. His answer was the filter. I emailed the Light
> Plane Maintenance editor and asked the same question and his answer was
> the filter. I also had emails from people on the RV-10 list telling me
> to check the engine and hoses which I did. Nothing seemed amiss with
> the engine, hoses, or oil pressure. Since I could find nothing wrong
> with the engine and I ordered new Champion filters and put a new Champ
> 110 on. I checked it regularly and it wasn't looking distressed at
> all. There were no signs of crushing. I thought my problems were over.
>
> While all of this was going on Kim Santerre of LPM wanted pictures of my
> crushed filter and I sent them. He was doing an article in LPM on
> defective filters and my problem fit right in. The article appeared
> last month in LPM with my filter pictures prominently on the cover.
> Kelly was not happy about the coverage and started discussions with
> LPM. While digging deeper to address Kelly's concerns, Santerre
> contacted Mattituck and found out that my model engine ships with the
> ECI angle adapter and should have a 108 filter because the adapter has
> no bypass valve. Santerre thought that I must have the straight adapter
> with the integral oil bypass valve since I was using the 110 filter.
> That's when I found out about the real difference between a 108 and a
> 110. It was very embarrassing to tell him that I had an angled adapter
> and I should have been using the 108 filter. A clarification is to
> appear in the next issue of LPM. Kim Santerre has been very gracious
> during all of this fiasco.
>
> Apparently I'm not the only owner who has been confused about the the
> 108 and 110 filters. Mattituck has a warning that they now ship with
> the ECI adapter equipped engines. My engine was shipped in July, 2007
> and the warning came out in Oct 2007. See the attachment. I think
> that ECI has a poor adapter design since it is possible to remove the
> male threading with no difficulty. A fixed male thread design would
> make it impossible to use the wrong filter. I still think that the
> Champion filter is superior to the Kelly since it survived in a
> situation where the Kelly failed although I'm sure the Kelly will work
> just fine in the proper installation.
>
>
>
> Sheldon Olesen
>
> N475PV 119 hrs.
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Seat belts and windows |
Todd, thanks for that. I guess with all the jumping around I started to
lose track.
Bill
do not archive
tsts4 wrote:
>
> Bill,
> For the seat belts, Section 49. For the rear windows, Section 45, page 45-18
Steps 1 & 2. Basically it just says use the same procedure that you used for
the door windows.
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> 728TT (reserved)
> RV-10 Empacone, Wings
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270942#270942
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Oil filter apology |
Sheldon,
Thanks for the valuable info, but more importantly thanks for owning up to
the error, a trait not seen nearly often enough in this day and age!
Marcus
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sheldon Olesen
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 12:20 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil filter apology
On Aug 11, I made a post about my crushed Kelly oil filter and included
pictures. I want to set the record straight. The failed
filter was the wrong filter for the engine. I am both sorry for and
embarrassed by my mistake. The difference between the correct filter
(48108-1) and the incorrect filter(48110) is an internal oil bypass valve in
the correct filter. I was unaware until about a week ago that there was
any substantive difference between the two filters other than the 108 had
female threads and the 110 had male
threading. I'll explain how all of this happened.
I was at home and going to do an Aircraft Spruce order and remembered that I
needed more oil filters. I didn't remember the filter number so I looked it
up in the A/C Spruce catalog where the IO-540 was listed under the 110
filter. When I got the 110's it was obvious
that one filter(110) was male and the other filter (108) female.
That wasn't a big problem because the male adapter for the ECI angled filter
adapter came off with the 108 filter. I figured there was no sense of
messing around with the male adapter if it comes off easily-- just use the
filter with the male threading built in. So I put the 110 filter on and
flew with no indications that there were any problems until I took it off
and found the filter media crushed inside the metal shell. This was around
OSH time so I asked Kelly what might be the problem. The very short answer
from them was the
engine. I also asked the Mattituck guy what might be the problem.
His answer was the filter. I emailed the Light Plane Maintenance editor and
asked the same question and his answer was the filter. I also had emails
from people on the RV-10 list telling me to check the engine and hoses which
I did. Nothing seemed amiss with the engine, hoses, or oil pressure. Since
I could find nothing wrong with the engine and I ordered new Champion
filters and put a new Champ 110
on. I checked it regularly and it wasn't looking distressed at all.
There were no signs of crushing. I thought my problems were over.
While all of this was going on Kim Santerre of LPM wanted pictures of my
crushed filter and I sent them. He was doing an article in LPM on
defective filters and my problem fit right in. The article appeared
last month in LPM with my filter pictures prominently on the cover.
Kelly was not happy about the coverage and started discussions with LPM.
While digging deeper to address Kelly's concerns, Santerre contacted
Mattituck and found out that my model engine ships with the ECI angle
adapter and should have a 108 filter because the adapter has no bypass
valve. Santerre thought that I must have the straight adapter with the
integral oil bypass valve since I was using the 110 filter. That's when I
found out about the real difference between a
108 and a 110. It was very embarrassing to tell him that I had an
angled adapter and I should have been using the 108 filter. A
clarification is to appear in the next issue of LPM. Kim Santerre has been
very gracious during all of this fiasco.
Apparently I'm not the only owner who has been confused about the the
108 and 110 filters. Mattituck has a warning that they now ship with the
ECI adapter equipped engines. My engine was shipped in July,
2007 and the warning came out in Oct 2007. See the attachment. I
think that ECI has a poor adapter design since it is possible to remove the
male threading with no difficulty. A fixed male thread design would make
it impossible to use the wrong filter. I still think that the Champion
filter is superior to the Kelly since it survived in a situation where the
Kelly failed although I'm sure the Kelly will work just fine in the proper
installation.
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 119 hrs.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Insurance-- hour threshold for decrease |
Does anyone know what the hour threshold is to get a substantial cost
decrease in their insurance policy?
I would probably have around 130 on renewal in Dec.
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 119 hrs
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance-- hour threshold for decrease |
Not so much hours as it is the IFR rating...that will save you a bunch...he cost
of the rating will repay you in two years. My premium for 150k 160 hours is
3K a year. 1600 if I was IFR
------Original Message------
From: Sheldon Olesen
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: Rv
Sent: Nov 5, 2009 7:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Insurance-- hour threshold for decrease
Does anyone know what the hour threshold is to get a substantial cost
decrease in their insurance policy?
I would probably have around 130 on renewal in Dec.
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 119 hrs
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance-- hour threshold for decrease |
I don't know for sure, but I think 200 hours was one
milestone, but that may be more total pilot time than
time on the plane.
I don't know that there is an exact number threshold
for just how much time you have on the RV-10. I think
the amount of time in the past 6 months or 90 days, or
year (depends on the carrier) makes a difference, and
your total time in make and model, and Instrument rating,
and all that stuff kind of mixes up the grand total.
There are some that are defined though, like with the
"TAA" thing, for Technically advanced Aircraft, that's
a defined percentage. And, I think the instrument
rating is like a 10% thing too.
You will likely see a decrease each year for a while
if the market stays as it was. But, I did just
see that one of the reinsurers is leaving the market
and the talk was that it was going to be good for
the insurance carriers because the rates have been
getting "soft" lately. So in translating, that's
probably part of why we've seen some good decreases
the last couple years, but it may turn in the other
direction in the future a bit....especially if another
reinsurer leaves the market.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Sheldon Olesen wrote:
>
> Does anyone know what the hour threshold is to get a substantial cost
> decrease in their insurance policy?
> I would probably have around 130 on renewal in Dec.
>
>
> Sheldon Olesen
> N475PV 119 hrs
Message 10
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| Subject: | Insurance-- hour threshold for decrease |
I think a normal break is about 1000; however an instrument rating and/or
commercial license should improve it some.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sheldon Olesen
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 8:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Insurance-- hour threshold for decrease
Does anyone know what the hour threshold is to get a substantial cost
decrease in their insurance policy?
I would probably have around 130 on renewal in Dec.
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 119 hrs
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Way Off Topic: New PIC |
Hi again all,
I just wanted to say "thanks" on behalf of Andrea. I've sent
her all of your comments and both of us appreciate it. Many
of the comments are right on...it's usually one thing to get
a girl who is tolerant of flying or building, but a whole other
thing when they're willing to help build, and actually follow
through with learning how to fly themselves. Hopefully
having more women in aviation will also keep boosting the
overall participation by people in general, because the best
thing we can do for longevity of the hobby and many more
aspects of plane ownership is to add more new pilots to the
world.
Thanks again for all the on and off list replies. I've not
answered much on them myself, just forwarded them off to her
to bring a smile here and there.
To answer cjay's question, she finished in that leased Cherokee
that I got this summer. So for this season, that plane
saw two women get their certificates, and now that we're
done with it, we're still keeping it for a bit for them to
keep current, and there's a local guy who's going to use it
to start his training too. So it's great to see people getting
into it. The Cherokee is a real dog compared to an RV, but
it's making a great trainer, and at $32/hr dry, I can't
beat the price. I figure $125/hr to fly my RV-10 if I be
realistic.
This winter/spring I'm going to keep my eyes open for a
nice used RV-7A or 9A, if I can pick one up at a real bargain,
and have that for them to build time in. Even with Andrea
having a private pilot certificate, adding her on to
the RV-10 policy will significantly increase the insurance
rate, and, truthfully, it's an expensive enough plane that
I'm not going to turn a new pilot loose with it. So a
nice little RV-7/9A would be something they could build
more hours in. Plus, it never hurts to have another plane
to have around to play with. I love flying side-by-sides. :)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
cjay wrote:
>
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>> Sorry that this is way off topic but I'm kind of excited because now
>> N104CD has an official co-pilot....ME! Yes, the little lady now not
>> only wears the pants in the house but in the cockpit too, since she's
>> now a pilot!
>> Tim O. - N104CD's F.O.
>
>
> so did she do the flight training in the 10?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270914#270914
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Way Off Topic: New PIC |
Tim Olson wrote:
> This winter/spring I'm going to keep my eyes open for a nice used RV-7A or 9A,
> Tim Olson
What's this "A" stuff [Mr. Green]
All real pilots know that for one and two place airplanes that little round thingie
goes in back, not up front. [Mr. Green]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=271244#271244
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Way Off Topic: New PIC |
orchidman wrote:
>
> All real pilots know that for one and two place airplanes that little round thingie
goes in back, not up front. [Mr. Green]
>
>
And all along I thought that control stick was supposed to be in
front of you, not in back! ;-)
-Dj
do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | UREM38E Spark Plugs For Sale |
I have 12 Autolite UREM38E spark plugs with 130hrs. time in use. They
have been cleaned, gapped, painted and tested and are in good
condition. I also have 4 New in the sleeve UREM38E spark plugs. All
16 plugs for $150.00 shipping included. I have pictures and contact
me direct. Thanks Barry
Do Not Archive
Barry Marz
18735 Baseleg AVE.
FT. Myers, Fl 33917
239-567-2271
blalmarz@embarqmail.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: AMSAFE seat belts |
I've got a couple of questions David:
How much weight are we adding with the inertia reel belts as opposed
to the standard?
The hard points you show in you installation pictures are much more
elaborate than what Vans provides for the stock belts. Is there a
reason the inertia belts require more support, or do you feel the Vans
hard points aren't enough for either approach?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Finishing the inside of the cabin top... and making provisions for the
belts
On Nov 3, 2009, at 9:46 AM, David McNeill wrote:
> www.inertialbelts.com is on line again. The belts are shown in my
> Glastar as the belts were not installed in my 10 at that time. Rene
> has good pictures of the final finish. I will enclose one of his here.
> <P0002841.gif>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Wayne Edgerton Could you please email me off line |
G'day Wayne, if you're out there (or if anyone knows Wayne's email) could y
ou please email me off line.=0A=0AKind regards=0A=0APatrick Pulis=0AAdelaid
e, South Australia=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: T
im Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Fri, 6 Nove
mber, 2009 3:10:54 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Way Off Topic: New PIC
gain all,=0A=0AI just wanted to say "thanks" on behalf of Andrea.- I've s
ent=0Aher all of your comments and both of us appreciate it.- Many=0Aof t
he comments are right on...it's usually one thing to get=0Aa girl who is to
lerant of flying or building, but a whole other=0Athing when they're willin
g to help build, and actually follow=0Athrough with learning how to fly the
mselves.- Hopefully=0Ahaving more women in aviation will also keep boosti
ng the=0Aoverall participation by people in general, because the best=0Athi
ng we can do for longevity of the hobby and many more=0Aaspects of plane ow
nership is to add more new pilots to the=0Aworld.=0A=0AThanks again for all
the on and off list replies.- I've not=0Aanswered much on them myself, j
ust forwarded them off to her=0Ato bring a smile here and there.=0A=0ATo an
swer cjay's question, she finished in that leased Cherokee=0Athat I got thi
s summer.- So for this season, that plane=0Asaw two women get their certi
ficates, and now that we're=0Adone with it, we're still keeping it for a bi
t for them to=0Akeep current, and there's a local guy who's going to use it
=0Ato start his training too. So it's great to see people getting=0Ainto it
.- The Cherokee is a real dog compared to an RV, but=0Ait's making a grea
t trainer, and at $32/hr dry, I can't=0Abeat the price.- I figure $125/hr
to fly my RV-10 if I be=0Arealistic.=0A=0AThis winter/spring I'm going to
keep my eyes open for a=0Anice used RV-7A or 9A, if I can pick one up at a
real bargain,=0Aand have that for them to build time in.- Even with Andre
a=0Ahaving a private pilot certificate, adding her on to=0Athe RV-10 policy
will significantly increase the insurance=0Arate, and, truthfully, it's an
expensive enough plane that=0AI'm not going to turn a new pilot loose with
it. So a=0Anice little RV-7/9A would be something they could build=0Amore
hours in.- Plus, it never hurts to have another plane=0Ato have around to
play with.- I love flying side-by-sides. :)=0A=0ATim Olson - RV-10 N104C
"cjay" <cgfinney@yahoo.com>=0A> =0A> =0A> Tim Olson wrote:=0A>> Sorry that
this is way off topic but I'm kind of excited because now- N104CD has an
official co-pilot....ME!- Yes, the little lady now not- only wears the
pants in the house but in the cockpit too, since she's- now a pilot!=0A>
> Tim O. - N104CD's F.O.=0A> =0A> =0A> so did she do the flight training in
the 10?=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> Read this topic online here:=0A> =0A> http
===========0A=0A=0A ______________________________
____________________________________________________=0AGet more done like n
ever before with Yahoo!7 Mail.=0ALearn more: http://au.overview.mail.yahoo.
com/
Message 17
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| Subject: | AMSAFE seat belts |
I think the overall concern is that the factory hardpoints are just not e
nough. I believe, as David said, AMSafe was concerned that additional rein
forcement would up the safety margin. I know I feel a lot better after put
ting a couple of intersecting layers of S glass over the hardpoints.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: AMSAFE seat belts
I've got a couple of questions David:
How much weight are we adding with the inertia reel belts as opposed to the
standard?
The hard points you show in you installation pictures are much more elabora
te than what Vans provides for the stock belts. Is there a reason the iner
tia belts require more support, or do you feel the Vans hard points aren't
enough for either approach?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Finishing the inside of the cabin top... and making provisions for the belt
s
On Nov 3, 2009, at 9:46 AM, David McNeill wrote:
www.inertialbelts.com<http://www.inertialbelts.com> is on line again. The b
elts are shown in my Glastar as the belts were not installed in my 10 at th
at time. Rene has good pictures of the final finish. I will enclose one of
his here.
<P0002841.gif>
rsbooks.com>
m>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Integrated rudder trim method |
I've researched the threads and Tim's site. There's plenty of pictures and instructions
for the piano hinge style of rudder trim tab.
But is there a "go-by" for the integrated style? I know either will work just fine,
I happen to like the look of the integrated trim tab.
Mike Strube
#41000
--------
Mike Strube
Irving, Tx
mike.strube at gmail.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=271295#271295
Message 19
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| Subject: | AMSAFE seat belts |
Below is my reply to Jeff. I do believe that if you use the standard
hardpoints and regular belts that you should at least use a CS stainless
washer under the screw. This will spread the load on the glass and make a
pull though more difficult.
don't know for sure but the total weight of four AMSAFE belts IIRC is less
than 10 pounds. Incrementally I would say an additional 2-4 pounds over the
standard belts. You add 4 3'x3'x1/2'' aluminum blocks and four rollers Check
with Rene as he probably weighed the alternatives.
The existing hardpoints were deemed inadequate (for the AMSAFE application)
by both AMSAFE and consultant (PhD, ME Caltech) who lives nearby. The vans
hardpoints are setup for a single #5 counter sunk screw. This is installed
without CS washer that would be required to spread the load. My ME
consultant friend tells me that the normal use of the regular belts will
cause micro fractures and may fail (pull through) if and when a crash
occurs. AMSAFE commented that they would sell me the belts if I "beefed up"
the existing hardpoints. Since the roller have screws for attaching the
brackets I needed a means to attach the bracket Since I did not want 16
protruding though the lid I used the aluminum blocks (2024T3 or 7075) .
These were tapped for 4 external screws to hold the pad that holds the
roller. Each external screw has a .75" CS stainless washer and thereby
spreading the load on the lid. In addition since the shoulder straps are on
inertial reels there is no constant shear load on the single screw in the
lid. The hardpoints areas were strengthened by additional E-glass and
S-glass tapes. The calculations of the ME ,while informal, indicated that
relative strengths could compared by comparing the surface areas of the
fasteners. Hope this helps.
I've got a couple of questions David:
How much weight are we adding with the inertia reel belts as opposed to the
standard?
The hard points you show in you installation pictures are much more
elaborate than what Vans provides for the stock belts. Is there a reason
the inertia belts require more support, or do you feel the Vans hard points
aren't enough for either approach
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 7:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: AMSAFE seat belts
I think the overall concern is that the factory hardpoints are just not
enough. I believe, as David said, AMSafe was concerned that additional
reinforcement would up the safety margin. I know I feel a lot better after
putting a couple of intersecting layers of S glass over the hardpoints.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: AMSAFE seat belts
I've got a couple of questions David:
How much weight are we adding with the inertia reel belts as opposed to the
standard?
The hard points you show in you installation pictures are much more
elaborate than what Vans provides for the stock belts. Is there a reason
the inertia belts require more support, or do you feel the Vans hard points
aren't enough for either approach?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Finishing the inside of the cabin top... and making provisions for the belts
On Nov 3, 2009, at 9:46 AM, David McNeill wrote:
www.inertialbelts.com is on line again. The belts are shown in my Glastar as
the belts were not installed in my 10 at that time. Rene has good pictures
of the final finish. I will enclose one of his here.
<P0002841.gif>
www.aeroelectric.com
www.buildersbooks.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Big Iron Envy |
AKflyers wrote:
> We have installed both the MaxDim and MaxPulse in our planes. Both work great
and were easy to install. I must add my two cents here. LoPresti, RMD, Knot2U,
xevision, the leaders in the HID market, and others are pulsing the HIDs.
So yes it can be done it seems. The question may be - how does it effect the
long term life of the HID bulbs? LoPresti puts it like this -
> http://speedmods.com/PowerPulse.htm look at the Urban Myths, and you can compare the systems here - http://maxpulsemaxdim.com/comparisons.htm . However, only one system is STC'd and has the warmup delay that seems to be so important. That is the MaxPulse unit. We cannot say if this is important or not. Everyone seems to have a different take on it. But if the HIDs have a 5000 hour life and pulsing them reduces that life by 10% you are going to be in the pilot seat for many, many hours. Your HIDs could very well outlive you. It would seem that being seen is far more important than anything? Safety anyone?
Max pulse is fine for HID if you run only the fastest pulse rate it offers, 60
pulses per minute each channel 120 pulses per minute both channels. and if you
run them steady on for about 20-30 seconds before you switch to pulsing operation.
The Max pulse only has a ~5 second wamup about 20 seconds too short. The
bulb manufacturers (Philips & Osram) only rate the bulbs for 2000 to 3000 hours
of normal use. I believe Lopresti's hours warranty is based on a hobbs meter
not lights on time. XeVision has a patent pending on automatic bulb warm-up
to substantially improve bulb life with HID pulsing operation.
--------
LED still has a long way to go to compete with HID as a landing light. This is
true in terms of total lumens and reach (distance).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=271304#271304
Message 21
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| Subject: | Integrated rudder trim method |
Mike,
How about some crappy photos without instructions? Somewhat self
explanatory.
http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/rudderTrim.htm
Looks good & works well.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MikeInIrving
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 7:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Integrated rudder trim method
I've researched the threads and Tim's site. There's plenty of pictures
and instructions for the piano hinge style of rudder trim tab.
But is there a "go-by" for the integrated style? I know either will work
just fine, I happen to like the look of the integrated trim tab.
Mike Strube
#41000
--------
Mike Strube
Irving, Tx
mike.strube at gmail.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=271295#271295
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
11/05/09 19:52:00
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Big Iron Envy |
Reposted from another thread here:
The new pulsing Lopresti PowerPulse is the same unit made by http://seatoneng.com/ or http://www.maxpulsemaxdim.com/comparisons.htm is a pretty cool compact form factor, I have to admit, I would use it for Incandescent or Halogen lamps. It is a GREAT product.
However, its built in warm up is NOT suitable for HID IF you are concerned about
ballast and bulb life. Its bulb warm up is not sufficient for HID because the
warm up time is much too short (~5 seconds) and most of the pulsing speeds are
too slow to be OK for HID bulbs.
XeVision was the first (4+ years ago) to offer Pulsing specifically designed for
the requirements of HID, after much discussion with the HID bulb manufacturers
about bulb operating requirements for long life (ARC plasma behavior and electrodes).
We make our own ballasts but these quality HID bulbs are ONLY made
by Philips or Osram (Sylvania).
The unit Lopresti is offering has only a 5 second warm up, OK for incandescent
or LED (not needed), but NOT good for HID.
HID requires the bulb arc plasma reach steady state or very close to it before
pulsing should start if one cares about HID system life. Anything less than 20
seconds of continuous warm up time is too short and will significantly affect
HID bulb life. Slow pulsing is also harmful, 60 ppm (1 Hz) per channel (120 ppm
both channels "wig-wag") is the approximate optimal speed considering both
bulb life and visual effectiveness for HID. Short warm up and / or slow pulsing
allows the plasma to cool off too much in pulsing operation, requiring very
much higher starting voltages to restrike the ARC, thus accelerating erosion of
the electrodes.
Once the HID bulb is warmed up, 20-30 seconds (sufficient) or more, if pulsing
is fast enough, the on pulse is long enough and the off period short enough the
plasma can stay hot enough to again sustain a low voltage arc (~85 VAC) as it
does in steady state without resorting to a high voltage restrike 25+ KV for
each pulse.
The Lopresti unit offers 44 ppm (22 ppm each channel) and 88 ppm (44 ppm each channel),
these are for both channels combined. Only the 120 ppm their fastest
rate (60 ppm each channel) is suitable for HID.
Note: XeVision has a Patent Pending regarding warm-up technology for HID (filed
over 4 years ago). The Patent office has granted our Patent about 1 month ago
and the final paperwork has been submitted for issuance from the US Patent office.
The original XePulse I and the about to be released XePulse II are covered
by this Patent. The XePulse II is about 20% of the size of the original unit
and the new unit includes additional patentable enhancements to insure maximum
HID system life while in pulsing operation.
Philips and Osram (the only quality D1S) bulb makers in the world. both claim a
Tc of either 2500 or 3000 hours. This bulb statistic means that only 63% of the
bulbs will still function (on/off) after that amount of run time in the lab.
Lopresti has used and still uses these 2 brands of D1S HID bulbs and yet still
claims a 5000 hour or 5 year warranty ???? This must be a hobbs meter based
warranty, not a true usage based warranty. Since most users will not use their
HID lights as a large % of total flight time this does not cause them to provide
many free replacement bulbs. And very few users will fly more than a couple
of hundred hours per year.
Without a proper arc chamber warm up Philips and Osram claim the bulb is only good
for about 20,000 starts. That is only 6 hours of continuous pulsing if it
is not in the plasma (steady state) instead of excited Xenon only as during the
initial starting. Depending on how someone operates their pulsing system, pulsing
while "cold" the warmup to steady state can be extended to over 5 minutes
which wears the electrodes at an accelerated rate. Once the arc gap gets large
enough and 105-110 VAC (max steady state bulb voltage) cannot sustain the arc
the bulbs life has ended. When a bulb is new it takes about 85 VAC and 0.4
amp (35 watt) (0.6 amp for 50 watts) to sustain the arc once warmed up. When the
bulb is cold it takes more power to keep the arc going. During this early phase
of bulb operation it can take 2X to 3X the power to the bulb to keep it "lit".
This extended overpowering to 70-90 watts is hard on the bulb this is the
bulb operation phase to be avoided for HID pulsing. Hot restriking after less
than a second of cool down (more than 30 seconds) it takes as much as 25,000
Volts to restart.
Every other company (6) which offers a pulsing system indicates 30 seconds to 1
minute steady on before pulsing should start (flip the switch) for HID.
The HID bulb manufacturers all agree that a close to steady state power to the
arc is mandatory for good bulb life and the higher the pulsing frequency the better
(that works well visibly). Hot restarting takes much more power if the bulb
is allowed to cool for more than 1/2 second. If pulsing only occurs while
the plasma state is well established (after 20-30 secs) then the power required
to re establish the arc is almost the same as to keep it "lit". Its all about
the impedance within the arc and under what conditions is it easiest on the
bulb and ballast to re establish the arc. Its all about adequately warming the
arc chamber up and keeping the off time between pulses short and the on time
of the pulses long.
I guess its their engineers (facts) "opinions" (Philips and Osram) vs Lopresti
sales team opinions. I think I'll stick with them, after all they are the bulb
experts.
The power being put into the bulb/ballast system can easily be monitored with an
amp probe on the cable to the bulb on an oscilloscope to see how the power varies
between operating the bulb these 2 different ways, "cold /cool" pulsing
or "hot" (warmed up) "steady state" pulsing.
One of Lopresti's people told me that their HID warm up was "instantaneous" Those
guys are miracle workers and can defy the laws of Physics.
--------
LED still has a long way to go to compete with HID as a landing light. This is
true in terms of total lumens and reach (distance).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=271305#271305
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Big Iron Envy |
On Thu, Nov 5, 2009 at 9:07 PM, XeVision <dblumel@xevision.com> wrote:
> LED still has a long way to go to compete with HID as a landing light. This
> is true in terms of total lumens and reach (distance).
>
I'm curious:
a) how many lumens are typical HID landing lights? The newest Cree emitters
can put out 1000 lumens per emitter, and hooking up more than one of these
emitters into a single unit is pretty easy. I have a 900 lumen 2-emitter
bike headlight (from brlights.com), and it is impressively bright, able to
illuminate most of my backyard.
b) besides lumens, what determines reach? I would have thought it would be
a simple combination of the amount of light energy, and the beam shape (aka,
reflector design). Are there other variables involved? Do certain colour
temperatures tend to illuminate further?
Chris
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Big Iron Envy |
[quote="rv10(at)colohan.com"]On Thu, Nov 5, 2009 at 9:07 PM, XeVision wrote:
> LED still has a long way to go to compete with HID as a landing light. This
is true in terms of total lumens and reach (distance).
>
I'm curious:
a) how many lumens are typical HID landing lights? The newest Cree emitters can put out 1000 lumens per emitter, and hooking up more than one of these emitters into a single unit is pretty easy. I have a 900 lumen 2-emitter bike headlight (from brlights.com (http://brlights.com)), and it is impressively bright, able to illuminate most of my backyard.
b) besides lumens, what determines reach? I would have thought it would be a simple
combination of the amount of light energy, and the beam shape (aka, reflector
design). Are there other variables involved? Do certain colour temperatures
tend to illuminate further?
Chris
> [b]
For a good landing light to reach out 1000 ft or more you must be able collimate
(sp) the light. Something that so far cannot be done so well or easily with
LED. With a high output LED you must maintain control of the junction temps. LED's
dont perform all that well with parabolic reflectors.
35 watt (bulb watts) HID at 4200K 3200 lumens, 50 watts HID (bulb watts) ~5500
lumens, 75 watt HID (bulb watts) 8000+ lumens.
--------
LED still has a long way to go to compete with HID as a landing light. This is
true in terms of total lumens and reach (distance).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=271312#271312
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