Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:33 AM - Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists (Matt Dralle)
1. 03:39 AM - Re: Emp Fairing - Inlet (Richard Bibb)
2. 04:16 AM - Re: Emp Fairing - Inlet (Linn Walters)
3. 04:35 AM - Re: Emp Fairing - Inlet (Richard Bibb)
4. 04:43 AM - Re: Emp Fairing - Inlet (Wayne Edgerton)
5. 07:52 AM - Re: Tailcone / Fuse Template (efdsteve@aol.com)
6. 08:03 AM - Re: Tailcone / Fuse Template (Perry, Phil)
7. 09:49 AM - Re: Tailcone / Fuse Template (Lew Gallagher)
8. 10:06 AM - Re: Re: Tailcone / Fuse Template (Perry, Phil)
9. 10:13 AM - Re: Re: Tailcone / Fuse Template (Lew Gallagher)
10. 10:29 AM - Re: Tailcone / Fuse Template (johngoodman)
11. 01:18 PM - shippers (Linn Walters)
12. 01:20 PM - FWF kit (Linn Walters)
13. 03:53 PM - Re: shippers (John Trollinger)
14. 03:53 PM - Re: FWF kit (Roxanne and Mike Lefever)
15. 05:01 PM - Re: FWF kit (Dsyvert@aol.com)
16. 06:43 PM - Brake Exit Hole Redux (Les Kearney)
17. 06:44 PM - doors & latches (rvdave)
18. 07:01 PM - Yuma (Dave Saylor)
19. 07:05 PM - Re: Brake Exit Hole Redux (Perry, Phil)
20. 07:05 PM - Re: doors & latches (Les Kearney)
21. 07:38 PM - Re: shippers (Lenny Iszak)
22. 08:57 PM - Re: shippers (Rick and Sandra Lark)
Message 0
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| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
Dear Listers,
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Message 1
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| Subject: | Emp Fairing - Inlet |
I dunno what Tim used but on the Mooney I used to own that had an inlet in
the roof (later models moved it to the empennage fairing) and used a 1/4 ID
diameter rubber hose that drained via a fitting out the bottom of the
fuselage.
Richard Bibb
972-771-2598
972-835-5979 mobile
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Friday, November 06, 2009 11:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Emp Fairing - Inlet
Earlier this week I had the tail feathers bolted in their final position and
then removed them for storage. While they were on I threw on the EMP
fairing just to get an idea how close it would be and as I expected I've got
quite a bit of work to do on it.
So since I'll be doing major plastic surgery on it, I was thinking about
adding a ram air inlet similar to this one on Tim's site.
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/mods/OverheadVent/index.html
But then the thought crossed my mind.. What about water?
What's the secret to keeping water out of the scat tubing? Rain on the
ramp, in flight, or just flying in wet clouds could pile up some water
pretty quickly.
Phil
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Emp Fairing - Inlet |
My overhead console will get it's air from a NACA scoop on the right
side. The only way to keep the water out is to force it to run uphill.
And this may not be sufficient if you have heavy rain coupled with the
airflow through the OC ......
You could open a small hole in the scat tubing at a low spot and have it
drain somewhere in the aft fuselage ...... but I personally don't like
that idea.
The thought does cause me to ask ..... anyone seen indications that
water gets into the tailcone from sitting outside in the rain??? Is
there a need for drain holes in the fuselage at the lowest point .... as
it sits on the ramp???
Linn
do not archive
Perry, Phil wrote:
> Earlier this week I had the tail feathers bolted in their final position
> and then removed them for storage. While they were on I threw on the
> EMP fairing just to get an idea how close it would be and as I expected
> Ive got quite a bit of work to do on it.
>
>
>
> So since Ill be doing major plastic surgery on it, I was thinking about
> adding a ram air inlet similar to this one on Tims site.
>
>
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/mods/OverheadVent/index.html
>
>
>
> But then the thought crossed my mind. What about water?
>
>
>
> Whats the secret to keeping water out of the scat tubing? Rain on the
> ramp, in flight, or just flying in wet clouds could pile up some water
> pretty quickly.
>
>
>
>
> Phil
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 3
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| Subject: | Emp Fairing - Inlet |
On the RV-4 the plans call for a 1/4" drain holes in the bottom skin at the
lowest point just in front of the last few aft bulkheads to drain any water
that manages to get inside. With the tri-gears different ground attitude
the locations would need to be adjusted but the concept is prudent in my
mind.
Richard Bibb
972-771-2598
972-835-5979 mobile
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 6:16 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Emp Fairing - Inlet
My overhead console will get it's air from a NACA scoop on the right
side. The only way to keep the water out is to force it to run uphill.
And this may not be sufficient if you have heavy rain coupled with the
airflow through the OC ......
You could open a small hole in the scat tubing at a low spot and have it
drain somewhere in the aft fuselage ...... but I personally don't like
that idea.
The thought does cause me to ask ..... anyone seen indications that
water gets into the tailcone from sitting outside in the rain??? Is
there a need for drain holes in the fuselage at the lowest point .... as
it sits on the ramp???
Linn
do not archive
Perry, Phil wrote:
> Earlier this week I had the tail feathers bolted in their final position
> and then removed them for storage. While they were on I threw on the
> EMP fairing just to get an idea how close it would be and as I expected
> I've got quite a bit of work to do on it.
>
>
>
> So since I'll be doing major plastic surgery on it, I was thinking about
> adding a ram air inlet similar to this one on Tim's site.
>
>
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/mods/OverheadVent/index.html
>
>
>
> But then the thought crossed my mind.. What about water?
>
>
>
> What's the secret to keeping water out of the scat tubing? Rain on the
> ramp, in flight, or just flying in wet clouds could pile up some water
> pretty quickly.
>
>
>
>
> Phil
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Emp Fairing - Inlet |
Phil,
I install a drain tube that runs from the inlet area down to the bottom
of the fuselage where I installed drain fitting of sort that lets the
moisture exit the plane.
If you would want any photos of what I did, let me know.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Time: 09:35:26 PM PST US
Subject: Emp Fairing - Inlet
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
Earlier this week I had the tail feathers bolted in their final
position
and then removed them for storage. While they were on I threw on
the
EMP fairing just to get an idea how close it would be and as I
expected
I've got quite a bit of work to do on it.
So since I'll be doing major plastic surgery on it, I was thinking
about
adding a ram air inlet similar to this one on Tim's site.
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/mods/OverheadVent/index.html
But then the thought crossed my mind.... What about water?
What's the secret to keeping water out of the scat tubing? Rain
on the
ramp, in flight, or just flying in wet clouds could pile up some
water
pretty quickly.
Phil
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Tailcone / Fuse Template |
The holes in my template got a bit elongated as well but here's what I mea
sured from the end of the template:
3/8", 1 1/8", 1 7/8", 2 5/8"
Steve Weinstock
40230 fuse and engine
-----Original Message-----
From: Perry, Phil <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
Sent: Fri, Nov 6, 2009 11:18 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone / Fuse Template
I managed to chew up my template, so I=99m wanting to double check
my work before committing some new holes into my longerons. J
Can I get one of you with the longeron template measure the edge distance
(on the template) for the aft four bolt holes that hold the tailcone to
the fuse?
I=99ve got the hole spacings and distances from the trailing edge of
the longeron, but I need the edge distance because my edge is pretty chew
ed .
Thanks,
Phil
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Tailcone / Fuse Template |
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Tailcone / Fuse Template |
Hey Phil,
It's been a while since we did this, but I think I remember this edge distance
being important -- after the fact. Make sure you get the holes close enough to
the edge so that the nuts will turn; and no more, so that installation works
and you still have structural integrity. We ended up using a nut to get the
distance.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=271570#271570
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Tailcone / Fuse Template |
Hi Lew,
Yeah, I asked a couple of questions around this topic a few weeks ago
and Bob Leffler helped me out with the measurements.
But late last night I built a mock up of the longerons and tested the
hole positions. Unfortunately I couldn't keep the washers off the
fillet curve and moving the hole further to the edge compromised the 2D
edge distance for #12 (AN3) holes. The only way I can really keep the
washers flat on the aluminum is to compromise edge clearance by 1/32 or
2/32 (1/16th).
That's why I am curious to see what the real measurements on the
template are. I'm curious to know if Vans intentionally compromised the
edge distance a bit to get flat washers. It's 1/8" aluminum angle, so I
could see them cheating a bit.
But before I commit holes, I want to be absolutely sure. :)
Another option that came up is to maintain the proper edge distance, but
file the washer down where it intersects the fillet curve. Then prime
the washer where the cadmium plate was removed.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Lew Gallagher [mailto:lewgall@charter.net]
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 11:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Tailcone / Fuse Template
Hey Phil,
It's been a while since we did this, but I think I remember this edge
distance being important -- after the fact. Make sure you get the holes
close enough to the edge so that the nuts will turn; and no more, so
that installation works and you still have structural integrity. We
ended up using a nut to get the distance.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=271570#271570
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Tailcone / Fuse Template |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 1:05 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Tailcone / Fuse Template
Yup, filed the washers. Later, - Lew
>
> Hi Lew,
>
> Yeah, I asked a couple of questions around this topic a few weeks ago
> and Bob Leffler helped me out with the measurements.
>
> But late last night I built a mock up of the longerons and tested the
> hole positions. Unfortunately I couldn't keep the washers off the
> fillet curve and moving the hole further to the edge compromised the 2D
> edge distance for #12 (AN3) holes. The only way I can really keep the
> washers flat on the aluminum is to compromise edge clearance by 1/32 or
> 2/32 (1/16th).
>
> That's why I am curious to see what the real measurements on the
> template are. I'm curious to know if Vans intentionally compromised the
> edge distance a bit to get flat washers. It's 1/8" aluminum angle, so I
> could see them cheating a bit.
>
> But before I commit holes, I want to be absolutely sure. :)
>
> Another option that came up is to maintain the proper edge distance, but
> file the washer down where it intersects the fillet curve. Then prime
> the washer where the cadmium plate was removed.
>
> Phil
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Tailcone / Fuse Template |
Grind down the washer.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit progressing. Engine & Panel
delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=271575#271575
Message 11
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There was some chatter awhile back on shippers ..... and a website for
cheapest shippers. I saved the information so well I can't find it!!!
I have an email out to Partain .... if he's still shipping.
Linn
do not archive
Message 12
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Anyone remember what their FWF kit weighed??? Cost???
Linn
do not archive
Message 13
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Partain is giving a 10% discount now (saw add on vansaircraft) I am having
them ship my fuselage, it came out about $100 cheaper than ABF and I trust
them more with my plane parts.
On Sat, Nov 7, 2009 at 4:16 PM, Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>wrote:
>
> There was some chatter awhile back on shippers ..... and a website for
> cheapest shippers. I saved the information so well I can't find it!!!
>
> I have an email out to Partain .... if he's still shipping.
> Linn
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 14
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Looks like $6200 to $6500 on the order form on the website. No weight list
ed.
> Date: Sat=2C 7 Nov 2009 16:20:01 -0500
> From: pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: FWF kit
>
>
> Anyone remember what their FWF kit weighed??? Cost???
> Linn
> do not archive
>
===========
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>
>
>
Message 15
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Linn,
I got it about 4 months ago. The one box I still have no is the
Vetterman exhaust. It says 2 of 2 on the box and is 33" x 11" x 18" weighing 30
to 40 lbs. The other box was probably about the same, maybe a little
heavier.
Dave Syvertson
In a message dated 11/7/2009 3:22:03 P.M. Central Standard Time,
pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Anyone remember what their FWF kit weighed??? Cost???
Linn
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Brake Exit Hole Redux |
Hi
After reading the posts of some builders who inadvertently enlarged the hole
in the gear mount, I can sympathize after looking at the plans. They are vey
misleading especially when considering that the hole in the gear mount (at
least mine is) is undersized.
Can anyone tell me where in the plans we are instructed to enlarge this
hole? From what I can see, it should be at least 7/16 to take the AN4
fitting.
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les
#40643 - Not quite out of fibreglass hell, but on a day pass
Message 17
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I'm at the point of assembling doors and want to change to the flush latches/handles.
For those who have installed flush handles, how far can I go with assembly
of doors before I need to alter plans for the alternate mechanism? Can I
proceed as if I were going ahead with supplied parts and change later? I've
seen a couple photos of the flush handles, but not sure how many different types
are available or where to obtain them? Thanks in advance,
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=271631#271631
Message 18
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If Albert or others from Yuma are on the list, can you drop me a line? I'll
be there for Thanksgiving wondered where to park, fuel, etc.
Thanks,
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
Message 19
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| Subject: | Brake Exit Hole Redux |
Hi Les,
I'm the guilty one for initiating the initial thread. And yes, the
plans are still confusing and I know what I'm doing at this point. J
The hole in the landing gear mount was probably drilled correctly, but
the powder coatings has shrunk the hole. The correct hole size is 7/16"
in the landing gear mount and 5/8" in the bottom skin.
Phil
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney@shaw.ca]
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 7:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake Exit Hole Redux
Hi
After reading the posts of some builders who inadvertently enlarged the
hole in the gear mount, I can sympathize after looking at the plans.
They are vey misleading especially when considering that the hole in the
gear mount (at least mine is) is undersized.
Can anyone tell me where in the plans we are instructed to enlarge this
hole? From what I can see, it should be at least 7/16 to take the AN4
fitting.
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les
#40643 - Not quite out of fibreglass hell, but on a day pass
Message 20
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Dave
I installed Steve Deniri's flush handles along with the flush locks. Go to
http://www.iflyrv10.com to see them. They were installed after the doors
were assembled - easily done. They are a very nice touch!
Don't forget to use the billet door blocks.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Lost in fibreglass hell
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rvdave
Sent: November-07-09 7:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: doors & latches
I'm at the point of assembling doors and want to change to the flush
latches/handles. For those who have installed flush handles, how far can I
go with assembly of doors before I need to alter plans for the alternate
mechanism? Can I proceed as if I were going ahead with supplied parts and
change later? I've seen a couple photos of the flush handles, but not sure
how many different types are available or where to obtain them? Thanks in
advance,
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=271631#271631
Message 21
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Linn,
I'd suggest go with Partain. They are set up to transport aircraft parts and they
do it with care, unlike ABF.
ABF delivered my tail kit. It said "high dollar aircraft parts" on the box, with
huge letters. Also two big arrows pointing up and " this side up" next to it.
Guess which side was up in the truck... ABF just doesn't care.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=271640#271640
Message 22
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Linn
When I ordered my tail kit in May, I priced ABF freight from Aurora to Port
Huron, Mi where I planned to cross the Can/US border and bring the kit home
to Ontario. Vans price with Fed Ex freight was 40% of what ABF's price was.
Need less to say, it wasn't a difficult choice.
I seem to remember the shipping price was well under $400
Hope you find the same pricing difference
Rick
40956
Southampton, Not
---- Original Message -----
From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 4:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: shippers
>
> There was some chatter awhile back on shippers ..... and a website for
> cheapest shippers. I saved the information so well I can't find it!!!
>
> I have an email out to Partain .... if he's still shipping.
> Linn
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
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