Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:26 AM - Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
2. 06:57 AM - Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned (Perry, Phil)
3. 07:21 AM - Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned (Linn Walters)
4. 11:25 AM - Nav and strobe lights (David McNeill)
5. 01:25 PM - Re: Nav and strobe lights (Dave Saylor)
6. 01:26 PM - Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned (Jeff Carpenter)
7. 01:29 PM - Re: Nav and strobe lights (Fred Williams, M.D.)
8. 01:46 PM - Re: Nav and strobe lights (Bob Leffler)
9. 02:21 PM - Re: Nav and strobe lights (Danny Riggs)
10. 02:22 PM - Re: Nav and strobe lights (Chuck Weyant)
11. 03:07 PM - Re: Nav and strobe lights (Michael Wellenzohn)
12. 03:14 PM - Re: Nav and strobe lights (Michael Wellenzohn)
13. 03:15 PM - Re: Nav and strobe lights (David McNeill)
14. 03:22 PM - Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
15. 03:28 PM - Re: Nav and strobe lights (Ben Westfall)
16. 03:38 PM - Re: Re: Nav and strobe lights (David McNeill)
17. 03:54 PM - Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned (Jeff Carpenter)
18. 03:54 PM - Pitot system testing ()
19. 03:58 PM - Re: Nav and strobe lights (David McNeill)
20. 04:53 PM - Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned (Rob Kochman)
21. 06:12 PM - Re: Pitot system testing (Rick Sked)
22. 07:57 PM - Brake cable (Perry, Phil)
23. 08:54 PM - Re: Brake cable (Pascal)
24. 08:54 PM - Re: Brake cable (David McNeill)
25. 08:58 PM - Re: DYNON Magnometer Location (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
26. 09:42 PM - Re: Brake cable (Dick & Vicki Sipp)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned |
John Gonzalez wrote:
I did my initial fit a couple of weeks ago using a thin cut off wheel on
a die grinder - yep, it melts and that seems like a good thing. The
dremel with the new mandrel and the little cutoff wheels works too but
real slow.
Rounding the corners, especially at the front edge makes a lot of
sense. One is tempted to try and flush fit it but Vans suggests that
isn't necessary - but rounding seems very right as a way to avoid point
loading.
That'll be my plan for the next fitting session. Thanks John!
Bill
> One issue not explained is, "How are people cutting the windscreen?"
>
> I used a cut off wheel. It melts the plastic infront of the cutting.
>
> Next i used 50-60 grit sanding disk on my Bose electric grinder. This
> is the kind of grinder that cuts tile, it runs at high RPM. Again, it
> heats at the same time it taketh away. Watch out for a run away cut
> off wheel or sanding disk. DO NOT GET DISTRACTED!
>
> As for getting the windscreen to fit exactly to the canopy frame and
> fuse, it will never happen. Indeed it takes like two to three
> hundred on/off sessions of taking little by little off each time.
>
> One very important point that the manual does not show, ROUND THE
> CORNERS OFF THE EDGES TO GET RID OF THE POINT LOADS ON THE PLEXI. THE
> MANUAL SHOWS A SHARP 90 DEGREE ANGLE ON ALL EDGES...I DO NOT AGREE
> WITH THIS IMAGE.
>
> John
>
> > Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 13:32:13 -0500
> > From: MauleDriver@nc.rr.com
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tips on removal of front window and lessons
> learned
> >
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> >
> > I'm ready to do all the glass but I don't completely get the issues
> > involved. Is there more than clamping that is a problem? The crazing
> > in the middle of the wind sheild doesn't seem like a clamping problem.
> >
> > As I understand it, a warm shop, the right tools, the adhesive of your
> > choice, a good partner, and ? will lead to success.
> >
> > Bill "all the glass by Christmas" Wat====================
> > _
> >
> >
> >
> *
>
>
> *
Message 2
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| Subject: | Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned |
Has anyone used a Fein Multimaster for the cut? That has been my plan
up to this point.
I performed a test cut by putting some plexi in the deep freeze and then
cutting it. No issues.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson [mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 5:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tips on removal of front window and lessons
learned
<MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
John Gonzalez wrote:
I did my initial fit a couple of weeks ago using a thin cut off wheel on
a die grinder - yep, it melts and that seems like a good thing. The
dremel with the new mandrel and the little cutoff wheels works too but
real slow.
Rounding the corners, especially at the front edge makes a lot of
sense. One is tempted to try and flush fit it but Vans suggests that
isn't necessary - but rounding seems very right as a way to avoid point
loading.
That'll be my plan for the next fitting session. Thanks John!
Bill
> One issue not explained is, "How are people cutting the windscreen?"
>
> I used a cut off wheel. It melts the plastic infront of the cutting.
>
> Next i used 50-60 grit sanding disk on my Bose electric grinder. This
> is the kind of grinder that cuts tile, it runs at high RPM. Again, it
> heats at the same time it taketh away. Watch out for a run away cut
> off wheel or sanding disk. DO NOT GET DISTRACTED!
>
> As for getting the windscreen to fit exactly to the canopy frame and
> fuse, it will never happen. Indeed it takes like two to three
> hundred on/off sessions of taking little by little off each time.
>
> One very important point that the manual does not show, ROUND THE
> CORNERS OFF THE EDGES TO GET RID OF THE POINT LOADS ON THE PLEXI. THE
> MANUAL SHOWS A SHARP 90 DEGREE ANGLE ON ALL EDGES...I DO NOT AGREE
> WITH THIS IMAGE.
>
> John
>
> > Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 13:32:13 -0500
> > From: MauleDriver@nc.rr.com
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tips on removal of front window and lessons
> learned
> >
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> >
> > I'm ready to do all the glass but I don't completely get the issues
> > involved. Is there more than clamping that is a problem? The crazing
> > in the middle of the wind sheild doesn't seem like a clamping
problem.
> >
> > As I understand it, a warm shop, the right tools, the adhesive of
your
> > choice, a good partner, and ? will lead to success.
> >
> > Bill "all the glass by Christmas" Wat====================
> > _
> >
> >
> >
> *
>
>
> *
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned |
We rough trimmed the plastic on the bandsaw, used a 4" grinder to get
closer and then used a variety of sanders for the finish. I'll probably
go back and put a rounded edge on them before I install them.
Linn
\Perry, Phil wrote:
>
> Has anyone used a Fein Multimaster for the cut? That has been my plan
> up to this point.
>
> I performed a test cut by putting some plexi in the deep freeze and then
> cutting it. No issues.
>
> Phil
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Nav and strobe lights |
Just a heads up; I have two airplanes with Whelen systems One has used the
strobes at most 520 hours; the power supply has failed. My call to Whelen
was not satisfying. They indicated that I should just buy a new power supply
@$400. I have opened the box and if I can find the replacements for the two
capacitors, I expect to fix it; however for new builders that have a choice
I recommend the new Vans alternative. The new AeroLED system is warranted
for 50,000 hours. For your RV10 , the cost will be about $1200 but when you
consider $400 power supplies, $75 strobe cubes, and $20 light bulbs. The
breakeven point versus the $900 Whelen system is not far away. Finally it is
install, test and forget.
If I an unable to fix the power supply I plan to junk the Whelen system for
an LED system.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Nav and strobe lights |
I put this system on my -10:
http://www.strobesnmore.com/whelen-competitor-series-strobe-systems.html
I used the tail strobe/light from Vans and two of the four tubes from the
kit. It fires the tail strobe just fine. No radio noise. 500+ hours so
far. If it fails, I'd get a new one for a lot less than the aviation
version.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Nov 19, 2009 at 10:57 AM, David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
> Just a heads up; I have two airplanes with Whelen systems One has used
> the strobes at most 520 hours; the power supply has failed. My call to
> Whelen was not satisfying. They indicated that I should just buy a new power
> supply @$400. I have opened the box and if I can find the replacements for
> the two capacitors, I expect to fix it; however for new builders that have a
> choice I recommend the new Vans alternative. The new AeroLED system is
> warranted for 50,000 hours. For your RV10 , the cost will be about $1200 but
> when you consider $400 power supplies, $75 strobe cubes, and $20 light
> bulbs. The breakeven point versus the $900 Whelen system is not far away.
> Finally it is install, test and forget.
>
> If I an unable to fix the power supply I plan to junk the Whelen system for
> an LED system.
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned |
I used the Multimaster on the first window I tried to trim and it
snapped in half. I strongly suggest that you use the cut off wheels
that Vans provided to make the initial trim on the window and sand it
down for the final fit.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
You'd think I've redone all my windows at this point... but so far,
only two.
On Nov 19, 2009, at 6:30 AM, Perry, Phil wrote:
>
> Has anyone used a Fein Multimaster for the cut? That has been my plan
> up to this point.
>
> I performed a test cut by putting some plexi in the deep freeze and
> then
> cutting it. No issues.
>
> Phil
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Mauledriver Watson [mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com]
> Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 5:23 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tips on removal of front window and lessons
> learned
>
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> John Gonzalez wrote:
> I did my initial fit a couple of weeks ago using a thin cut off
> wheel on
>
> a die grinder - yep, it melts and that seems like a good thing. The
> dremel with the new mandrel and the little cutoff wheels works too but
> real slow.
>
> Rounding the corners, especially at the front edge makes a lot of
> sense. One is tempted to try and flush fit it but Vans suggests that
> isn't necessary - but rounding seems very right as a way to avoid
> point
> loading.
>
> That'll be my plan for the next fitting session. Thanks John!
>
> Bill
>> One issue not explained is, "How are people cutting the windscreen?"
>>
>> I used a cut off wheel. It melts the plastic infront of the cutting.
>>
>> Next i used 50-60 grit sanding disk on my Bose electric grinder. This
>> is the kind of grinder that cuts tile, it runs at high RPM. Again, it
>> heats at the same time it taketh away. Watch out for a run away cut
>> off wheel or sanding disk. DO NOT GET DISTRACTED!
>>
>> As for getting the windscreen to fit exactly to the canopy frame and
>> fuse, it will never happen. Indeed it takes like two to three
>> hundred on/off sessions of taking little by little off each time.
>>
>> One very important point that the manual does not show, ROUND THE
>> CORNERS OFF THE EDGES TO GET RID OF THE POINT LOADS ON THE PLEXI. THE
>> MANUAL SHOWS A SHARP 90 DEGREE ANGLE ON ALL EDGES...I DO NOT AGREE
>> WITH THIS IMAGE.
>>
>> John
>>
>>> Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 13:32:13 -0500
>>> From: MauleDriver@nc.rr.com
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tips on removal of front window and lessons
>> learned
>>>
>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>>>
>>> I'm ready to do all the glass but I don't completely get the issues
>>> involved. Is there more than clamping that is a problem? The crazing
>>> in the middle of the wind sheild doesn't seem like a clamping
> problem.
>>>
>>> As I understand it, a warm shop, the right tools, the adhesive of
> your
>>> choice, a good partner, and ? will lead to success.
>>>
>>> Bill "all the glass by Christmas" Wat====================
>>> _
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Nav and strobe lights |
David;
I just sent off my power supply this week for evaluation. Trying to do
the same math on the break over point. If my power supply is shot, I do
plan to go to LED's. On the led system from Vans, are the position
lights part of the system? It is not real clear from the website.
Dr Fred.
"Nite stealth rider"
David McNeill wrote:
> Just a heads up; I have two airplanes with Whelen systems One has used
> the strobes at most 520 hours; the power supply has failed. My call to
> Whelen was not satisfying. They indicated that I should just buy a new
> power supply @$400. I have opened the box and if I can find the
> replacements for the two capacitors, I expect to fix it; however for
> new builders that have a choice I recommend the new Vans alternative.
> The new AeroLED system is warranted for 50,000 hours. For your RV10 ,
> the cost will be about $1200 but when you consider $400 power
> supplies, $75 strobe cubes, and $20 light bulbs. The breakeven point
> versus the $900 Whelen system is not far away. Finally it is install,
> test and forget.
>
> If I an unable to fix the power supply I plan to junk the Whelen
> system for an LED system.
> *
>
>
> *
Message 8
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| Subject: | Nav and strobe lights |
You can get the AeroLEDs through Van's and they are a little less expensive
too for the complete package. The AeroLEDs NS90 include the strobe and the
position light.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
M.D.
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nav and strobe lights
<drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
David;
I just sent off my power supply this week for evaluation. Trying to do
the same math on the break over point. If my power supply is shot, I do
plan to go to LED's. On the led system from Vans, are the position
lights part of the system? It is not real clear from the website.
Dr Fred.
"Nite stealth rider"
David McNeill wrote:
> Just a heads up; I have two airplanes with Whelen systems One has used
> the strobes at most 520 hours; the power supply has failed. My call to
> Whelen was not satisfying. They indicated that I should just buy a new
> power supply @$400. I have opened the box and if I can find the
> replacements for the two capacitors, I expect to fix it; however for
> new builders that have a choice I recommend the new Vans alternative.
> The new AeroLED system is warranted for 50,000 hours. For your RV10 ,
> the cost will be about $1200 but when you consider $400 power
> supplies, $75 strobe cubes, and $20 light bulbs. The breakeven point
> versus the $900 Whelen system is not far away. Finally it is install,
> test and forget.
>
> If I an unable to fix the power supply I plan to junk the Whelen
> system for an LED system.
> *
>
>
> *
Message 9
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| Subject: | Nav and strobe lights |
Check out Kuntzelman Electronics=2C Inc. They advertise in the EAA magazin
es. They have solid state (LED) position lights and strobes for a lot less
than Whelen. Web site is www.kestrobes.com I believe. Dan
> From: rv@thelefflers.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nav and strobe lights
> Date: Thu=2C 19 Nov 2009 16:48:39 -0500
>
>
> You can get the AeroLEDs through Van's and they are a little less expensi
ve
> too for the complete package. The AeroLEDs NS90 include the strobe and th
e
> position light.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams
=2C
> M.D.
> Sent: Thursday=2C November 19=2C 2009 4:21 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nav and strobe lights
>
> <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
>
> David=3B
>
> I just sent off my power supply this week for evaluation. Trying to do
> the same math on the break over point. If my power supply is shot=2C I do
> plan to go to LED's. On the led system from Vans=2C are the position
> lights part of the system? It is not real clear from the website.
>
> Dr Fred.
> "Nite stealth rider"
>
>
>
> David McNeill wrote:
> > Just a heads up=3B I have two airplanes with Whelen systems One has use
d
> > the strobes at most 520 hours=3B the power supply has failed. My call t
o
> > Whelen was not satisfying. They indicated that I should just buy a new
> > power supply @$400. I have opened the box and if I can find the
> > replacements for the two capacitors=2C I expect to fix it=3B however fo
r
> > new builders that have a choice I recommend the new Vans alternative.
> > The new AeroLED system is warranted for 50=2C000 hours. For your RV10
=2C
> > the cost will be about $1200 but when you consider $400 power
> > supplies=2C $75 strobe cubes=2C and $20 light bulbs. The breakeven poin
t
> > versus the $900 Whelen system is not far away. Finally it is install=2C
> > test and forget.
> >
> > If I an unable to fix the power supply I plan to junk the Whelen
> > system for an LED system.
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: It works the way you want. Learn more.
http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:
WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen:112009v2
Message 10
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| Subject: | Nav and strobe lights |
On the other hand, I just sent my Whelen in and received it back from Whelen
when it stopped working. They ran it for two hours and sent it back at no
charge. Said it must be my wiring --- it was . bad connection. First time
I've had any problems with a Whelen in two or three airplanes and it was my
fault, not theirs.
Chuck
On Thu, Nov 19, 2009 at 10:57 AM, David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
Just a heads up; I have two airplanes with Whelen systems One has used the
strobes at most 520 hours; the power supply has failed. My call to Whelen
was not satisfying. They indicated that I should just buy a new power supply
@$400. I have opened the box and if I can find the replacements for the two
capacitors, I expect to fix it; however for new builders that have a choice
I recommend the new Vans alternative. The new AeroLED system is warranted
for 50,000 hours. For your RV10 , the cost will be about $1200 but when you
consider $400 power supplies, $75 strobe cubes, and $20 light bulbs. The
breakeven point versus the $900 Whelen system is not far away. Finally it is
install, test and forget.
If I an unable to fix the power supply I plan to junk the Whelen system for
an LED system.
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Nav and strobe lights |
I just installed the AeroLEDs
in addition to the LED pos lights that I had installed before.
Mike
pics on www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273791#273791
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Nav and strobe lights |
I just installed the AeroLEDs
in addition to the LED pos lights that I had installed before.
Mike
pics on www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273792#273792
Message 13
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| Subject: | Nav and strobe lights |
Yes; check http://www.aeroleds.com/navstrobelights/pulsarexptrade.aspx and
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1258672435-466-588&bro
wse=lighting&product=AeroLEDs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
M.D.
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 2:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nav and strobe lights
--> <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
David;
I just sent off my power supply this week for evaluation. Trying to do the
same math on the break over point. If my power supply is shot, I do plan to
go to LED's. On the led system from Vans, are the position lights part of
the system? It is not real clear from the website.
Dr Fred.
"Nite stealth rider"
David McNeill wrote:
> Just a heads up; I have two airplanes with Whelen systems One has used
> the strobes at most 520 hours; the power supply has failed. My call to
> Whelen was not satisfying. They indicated that I should just buy a new
> power supply @$400. I have opened the box and if I can find the
> replacements for the two capacitors, I expect to fix it; however for
> new builders that have a choice I recommend the new Vans alternative.
> The new AeroLED system is warranted for 50,000 hours. For your RV10 ,
> the cost will be about $1200 but when you consider $400 power
> supplies, $75 strobe cubes, and $20 light bulbs. The breakeven point
> versus the $900 Whelen system is not far away. Finally it is install,
> test and forget.
>
> If I an unable to fix the power supply I plan to junk the Whelen
> system for an LED system.
> *
>
>
> *
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned |
2 questions of academic interest only
- what multimaster blade did you use - a fine tooth saw type or the tile
cutter type of abrasive blade?
- I've never found the Vans supplies cutoff wheels - where are they?
Curious Bill
do not archive
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> I used the Multimaster on the first window I tried to trim and it
> snapped in half. I strongly suggest that you use the cut off wheels
> that Vans provided to make the initial trim on the window and sand it
> down for the final fit.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> You'd think I've redone all my windows at this point... but so far,
> only two.
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Nav and strobe lights |
I'd second Dave's comment and add that the unit I purchased from this site
has the same footprint for mounting hole locations as the whelen unit so it
fits the strobe bracket van's sells w/o modification.
http://www.strobesnmore.com/nova-x-pak-strobe-power-supplies.html. $129 is
a bunch cheaper than 400.
-Ben Westfall
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nav and strobe lights
I put this system on my -10:
http://www.strobesnmore.com/whelen-competitor-series-strobe-systems.html
I used the tail strobe/light from Vans and two of the four tubes from the
kit. It fires the tail strobe just fine. No radio noise. 500+ hours so
far. If it fails, I'd get a new one for a lot less than the aviation
version.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Nav and strobe lights |
Do the AeroLEDs have the same footprint that the Whelen they replaced?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 4:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nav and strobe lights
--> <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
I just installed the AeroLEDs
in addition to the LED pos lights that I had installed before.
Mike
pics on www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273792#273792
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned |
... fine tooth saw type blade. I was cutting down in to the arc of
the window and it went "pop" with about an 8" crack.
the wheels were supplied with the finish kit... don't remember the bag
number.
as long as you've got adequate air pressure, the cutoff wheels work
very well... no need to reinvent the "wheel" on this one.
On Nov 19, 2009, at 3:23 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
> >
>
> 2 questions of academic interest only
> - what multimaster blade did you use - a fine tooth saw type or the
> tile cutter type of abrasive blade?
> - I've never found the Vans supplies cutoff wheels - where are they?
>
> Curious Bill
>
> do not archive
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>> >
>>
>> I used the Multimaster on the first window I tried to trim and it
>> snapped in half. I strongly suggest that you use the cut off
>> wheels that Vans provided to make the initial trim on the window
>> and sand it down for the final fit.
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>> You'd think I've redone all my windows at this point... but so far,
>> only two.
>>
>>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Pitot system testing |
I have tested my pitot system using the EZ homemade system. Works well with my
indicated AS right on the mark. But I have a slow leak that I can not find.
Loses about 1 knot every 3 to 4 minutes. A little faster loss at higher manometer
pressures. The leaks seems to stop when the manometer pressure gets to about
7.5 inches (105 Knots). Is this acceptable? Any advice on how to find leak--I
have "soapy bubble tested" all connections. Thanks. Jay rowe
Message 19
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| Subject: | Nav and strobe lights |
I found the info; will discuss RFI issues with them tomorrow. When my Whelen
power began to fail I got static in the SL30 that I was unable to suppress
with squelch. After complete failure static was gone.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 4:26 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nav and strobe lights
I'd second Dave's comment and add that the unit I purchased from this site
has the same footprint for mounting hole locations as the whelen unit so it
fits the strobe bracket van's sells w/o modification.
http://www.strobesnmore.com/nova-x-pak-strobe-power-supplies.html. $129 is
a bunch cheaper than 400.
-Ben Westfall
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nav and strobe lights
I put this system on my -10:
http://www.strobesnmore.com/whelen-competitor-series-strobe-systems.html
I used the tail strobe/light from Vans and two of the four tubes from the
kit. It fires the tail strobe just fine. No radio noise. 500+ hours so
far. If it fails, I'd get a new one for a lot less than the aviation
version.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned |
My wheels were provided with the fuselage kit.
On Thu, Nov 19, 2009 at 3:53 PM, Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>wrote:
>
> ... fine tooth saw type blade. I was cutting down in to the arc of the
> window and it went "pop" with about an 8" crack.
>
> the wheels were supplied with the finish kit... don't remember the bag
> number.
>
> as long as you've got adequate air pressure, the cutoff wheels work very
> well... no need to reinvent the "wheel" on this one.
>
>
> On Nov 19, 2009, at 3:23 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
>
>> MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>>
>> 2 questions of academic interest only
>> - what multimaster blade did you use - a fine tooth saw type or the tile
>> cutter type of abrasive blade?
>> - I've never found the Vans supplies cutoff wheels - where are they?
>>
>> Curious Bill
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I used the Multimaster on the first window I tried to trim and it snapped
>>> in half. I strongly suggest that you use the cut off wheels that Vans
>>> provided to make the initial trim on the window and sand it down for the
>>> final fit.
>>>
>>> Jeff Carpenter
>>> 40304
>>> You'd think I've redone all my windows at this point... but so far, only
>>> two.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot system testing |
You may want to check the tray if you have a TruTrak AP installed, I had an issue
with the tray when testing the panel alone. I have a similar drop in pressure
right now but the system matches right up with the GPS speed & altitude so
It doesn't appear to be an issue. I plan on having the pitot/static check completed
soon which may or may not tell me I have a problem. The ballon test works
pretty well for now. Maybe an instrument guru can tell us if there is some allowed
blowby in the instruments themselves. All of my connections are confirmed
not to leak so it's going somewhere. The only place I can think is internally
on the instrument itself.
Rick Sked
N246RS
----- Original Message -----
From: jfrjr@roadrunner.com
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 3:53:52 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RV10-List: Pitot system testing
I have tested my pitot system using the EZ homemade system. Works well with my
indicated AS right on the mark. But I have a slow leak that I can not find.
Loses about 1 knot every 3 to 4 minutes. A little faster loss at higher manometer
pressures. The leaks seems to stop when the manometer pressure gets to about
7.5 inches (105 Knots). Is this acceptable? Any advice on how to find leak--I
have "soapy bubble tested" all connections. Thanks. Jay rowe
Message 22
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SSdtIGdldHRpbmcgcmVhZHkgdG8gcGxhY2UgbXkgd2Vla2x5IG9yZGVyIHRvICRwcnVjZS4gICBJ
bmNsdWRlZCB0aGlzIHdlZWsgaXMgdGhlIE1hdGNvIHBhcmtpbmcgYnJha2UgKG5ldyBzdHlsZSku
IA0KDQpJIHNob3VsZCBhbHNvIG9yZGVyIGEgcHVzaC9wdWxsIHR5cGUgb2YgY2FibGUgdG8gb3Bl
cmF0ZSB3aXRoIGl0LiBTbyB3aGF0IGNhYmxlcyBoYXZlIGJlZW4gdXNlZCBzbyBmYXIgdGhpcyBq
b2I/ICBBbnkgY29tcGxhaW50cyB3aXRoIHlvdXIgY2hvaWNlPw0KDQpBbHNvLCBJJ2QgdGhpbmsg
dGhhdCBsb2FkaW5nIHRoZSBhcm0gb24gdGhlIGJyYWtlIHdpdGggYSBzbWFsbCBzcHJpbmcgdG8g
c3dpbmcgdGhlIGJyYWtlIG9wZW4gd291bGQgYmUgYSBnb29kIGlkZWE/ICBUb3VjaGluZyBkb3du
IHdpdGggdGhlIGJyYWtlcyBvbiBpc24ndCBzb21ldGhpbmcgSSdkIGxpa2UgdG8gdHJ5IGluIG15
IFJWLTEwLiA6KQ0KDQpQaGlsDQo
Message 23
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Brake cableWhen you get the FWF kit, it will come with an extra
push/pull for the parking brake. If you get it from Spruce be sure to
remove that extra cable (used for the Carb) from your order. Think it's
the CT-740.
No idea about the need for a spring. I think there is enough friction to
not need it..
From: Perry, Phil
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 7:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake cable
I'm getting ready to place my weekly order to $pruce. Included this
week is the Matco parking brake (new style).
I should also order a push/pull type of cable to operate with it. So
what cables have been used so far this job? Any complaints with your
choice?
Also, I'd think that loading the arm on the brake with a small spring to
swing the brake open would be a good idea? Touching down with the
brakes on isn't something I'd like to try in my RV-10. :)
Phil
=EF=BD~=EF=BD=03
Message 24
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I used a Bowden cable; all the way forward ,against the stop, the valve
is open. Pulled aft with pressure applied to the brakes, sets the
parking brake. I used a clic bond with stud and Adel clamp on the
fuselage sidewall to properly move the Matco brake lever
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 8:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake cable
I'm getting ready to place my weekly order to $pruce. Included this
week is the Matco parking brake (new style).
I should also order a push/pull type of cable to operate with it. So
what cables have been used so far this job? Any complaints with your
choice?
Also, I'd think that loading the arm on the brake with a small spring to
swing the brake open would be a good idea? Touching down with the
brakes on isn't something I'd like to try in my RV-10. :)
Phil
=EF=BD~=EF=BD=03
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: DYNON Magnometer Location |
I am working on the wings of my -10 now and ordered the SafeAir AOA/Pitot,
along with the pitot/static line kit. I also ordered two of the SafeAir Dyn
on compass mounting kits for dual EFIS units. I figured I would get all the
wiring and plumbing lines run through the wings before I button them up. W
ith the wiring and plumbing done in the left wing, I got to thinking about
the wingtip magnometer mounts and the location, and am now worried that the
magnometers will be close to the wingtip nutplates, my Whelen A600's and w
iring, and my HID wingtip ballasts and landing/taxi lights. I am now thinki
ng that an alternate location would be better and after searching the forum
, found that a lot of folks building models other than the -10 are putting
the magnometers in the empennage, either on the V/S deck or aft of the bagg
age bulkhead. I am inclined to do one of these locations instead of the win
gtip. Any comments, suggestions, or info from other -10 builders would be a
ppreciated. Thanks in advance!
David Clifford
RV-10
Working on the wings now!
Message 26
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Brake cableI used the Bowden type cable with the "T" handle and push
button lock/release available from AS. I wanted this cable to be
different from all the others in the quadrant of controls.
I did not use any extra springs; the valve seems to hold well and
releases easily with release of the handle. Often times when I "added"
some option I thought I needed they turned out to be not that useful.
This is one that I use often and works well.
Dick Sipp
N110DV 190 hours
From: Perry, Phil
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 10:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake cable
I'm getting ready to place my weekly order to $pruce. Included this
week is the Matco parking brake (new style).
I should also order a push/pull type of cable to operate with it. So
what cables have been used so far this job? Any complaints with your
choice?
Also, I'd think that loading the arm on the brake with a small spring to
swing the brake open would be a good idea? Touching down with the
brakes on isn't something I'd like to try in my RV-10. :)
Phil
=EF=BD~=EF=BD=03
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