Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:09 AM - Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published in December! (Matt Dralle)
1. 01:39 AM - Re: EGT sensor (Werner Schneider)
2. 04:29 AM - Re: side baffles side (Linn Walters)
3. 09:40 AM - Get busy (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
4. 09:49 AM - Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
5. 09:49 AM - Re: side baffles side (Don McDonald)
6. 10:20 AM - Re: Get busy (Don McDonald)
7. 10:23 AM - Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned (Perry, Phil)
8. 10:40 AM - Re: EGT sensor (David McNeill)
9. 12:29 PM - Re: Odd Firewall Rivet Question (Rob Kochman)
10. 12:43 PM - Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
11. 12:49 PM - Exterior Paint - Alodine first? (n277dl)
12. 12:56 PM - Re: Exterior Paint - Alodine first? (Miller John)
13. 02:34 PM - Re: Exterior Paint - Alodine first? (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
14. 02:42 PM - Re: Exterior Paint - Alodine first? (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
15. 03:50 PM - control stick wiring (Chris Hukill)
16. 05:14 PM - Re: control stick wiring (Dick & Vicki Sipp)
17. 06:50 PM - inner tubes (Miller John)
18. 07:18 PM - Re: inner tubes (Don McDonald)
19. 08:08 PM - Landing lights (Strasnuts)
20. 08:25 PM - Re: Landing lights (Tim Olson)
21. 08:34 PM - Re: Landing lights (Strasnuts)
22. 09:10 PM - Re: Landing lights (Strasnuts)
23. 09:11 PM - Re: Re: Landing lights (Tim Olson)
24. 10:33 PM - Re: Re: Landing lights (Robin Marks)
Message 0
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| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published in |
December!
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a
list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
USA
(Please include your email address on the check!)
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 1
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I had something similar and already bought other sensors it finally came
to the point, that the pins in the db25 were not seated right. Check
after shutdown by fumbling on all connectors from the sensor towards the
plug into the instrument to find out.
Werner
>
> On Nov 21, 2009, at 2:13 PM, David McNeill wrote:
>
>> I have GRT EIS sensors;
>> sent to GRT
>>
>> "My #4 EGT sensor seems to be failing; temperature is consistently
>> 500 degrees below others and bounces around by about 100 increments
>> every second or so; CHT normal. I ran a ground mag check at 1700
>> RPM and found the mag drops to be 1630 and 1620, so I am relatively
>> certain that the engine is operating normal but sensor is not. Please
>> advise. Aircraft is now at 210 TT."
>>
>> Anyone else have similar issue?
> *
> *
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: side baffles side |
Well, I was hoping to avoid admitting that I 'had a better idea' when I
rebuilt my baffles on my Pitts. I didn't want to rivet the plates that
capture the adjacent part .... so did it in one piece. I bolted the
single part on .... and about 1 year on the new part .... it started to
crack. Stop-drilled the crack didn't keep it from migrating. Over
about 4 years .... I had 6 pieces .... with the capture plates riveted
on. When I got cracking from the mounting holes I rebuilt with 3 pieces.
Maybe having them float would have prevented the cracking.
Linn
Don McDonald wrote:
> Jesse, because I built a plenum, I also built the side panels so I could
> simply screw/bolt the plenim directly to the top of the side baffles.
> It's all on cadcam and we just run it out to the shop where it gets
> punched out just like Van's does... then over to the brake to put a 90
> degree 3/4" lip on the top.... so it's already setup.... I'm going to
> make Pascal a set, and he/we were just trying to find out if there were
> any additional issues.
> Linn, as to your statement about them ending up in 3 pieces anyway.... I
> use a floating system whereas the screws tighten down on stainless
> shims, thicker than the baffles, thereby letting the aluminum baffle
> float. So far 90 hours, no issues.
> Thanks guys, Don
Message 3
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned |
The fine tooth blade is the proper blade to use for this. I used a Fein on all
the windows including the windscreen with no problems.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver Watson
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 5:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned
2 questions of academic interest only
- what multimaster blade did you use - a fine tooth saw type or the tile
cutter type of abrasive blade?
- I've never found the Vans supplies cutoff wheels - where are they?
Curious Bill
do not archive
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> I used the Multimaster on the first window I tried to trim and it
> snapped in half. I strongly suggest that you use the cut off wheels
> that Vans provided to make the initial trim on the window and sand it
> down for the final fit.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> You'd think I've redone all my windows at this point... but so far,
> only two.
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: side baffles side |
Thanks Linn for the input.... that's what Pascal and I were looking for....
- I am hoping that by being able to float on the screws, it will avoid th
e cracking issue.
-
Don McDonald
-
Flying, and lovin it.
--- On Sun, 11/22/09, Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: side baffles side
Well, I was hoping to avoid admitting that I 'had a better idea' when I reb
uilt my baffles on my Pitts.- I didn't want to rivet the plates that capt
ure the adjacent part .... so did it in one piece.- I bolted the single p
art on .... and about 1 year on the new part .... it started to crack.- S
top-drilled the crack didn't keep it from migrating.- Over about 4 years
.... I had 6 pieces .... with the capture plates riveted on. When I got cra
cking from the mounting holes I rebuilt with 3 pieces.- Maybe having them
float would have prevented the cracking.
Linn
Don McDonald wrote:
> Jesse, because I built a plenum, I also built the side panels so I could
simply screw/bolt the plenim directly to the top of the side baffles.- It
's all on cadcam and we just run it out to the shop where it gets punched o
ut just like Van's does... then over to the brake to put a 90 degree 3/4" l
ip on the top....- so it's already setup.... I'm going to make Pascal a s
et, and he/we were just trying to find out if there were any additional iss
ues.- Linn, as to your statement about them ending up in 3 pieces anyway.
... I use a floating system whereas the screws tighten down on stainless sh
ims, thicker than the baffles, thereby letting the aluminum baffle float.
- So far 90 hours, no issues. Thanks guys, Don
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 6
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I knew when we met=C2-there was something different about you....=C2- u
p here, we FLY to lunch!
Don
--- On Sun, 11/22/09, ricksked@embarqmail.com <ricksked@embarqmail.com> wro
te:
From: ricksked@embarqmail.com <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Get busy
For you guys still in the shop here's some inspiration Bob and I at 0730 pu
lled her out of the hangar....60 degrees, winds light and variable....two v
ery nice ILS approaches and four touch and goes followed by a squeaker befo
re pushing back into the hangar..fuel burned...11 gallons...now it's off to
lunch!! The RV-10 is a beautiful airplane!!
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: side baffles side
With an engine that pretty=2C how=C2-=3Bdo you justify a cowling.
=C2-=3B
John
=C2-=3B
From: building_partner@yahoo.com=
Subject: Re: RV10-List: side baffles side
Jesse=2C because I built a plenum=2C I also built the side panels so I
= could simply screw/bolt the plenim directly to the top of the side baff
les= .=C2-=3B It's all on cadcam and we just run it out to the shop w
here it ge= ts punched out just like Van's does... then over to the brake
to put a 90 d= egree 3/4" lip on the top....=C2-=3B so it's already
=C2-=3Bsetup.... I'm = going to make Pascal a set=2C and he/we were
just trying to find out if the= re were any additional issues.=C2-=3
B=C2-=3B
Linn=2C as to your statement about them ending up in 3 pieces anyway..=
.. I use a floating system=C2-=3Bwhereas the screws tighten down on st
ainl= ess shims=2C thicker than the baffles=2C thereby letting the al
uminum baffl= e float.=C2-=3B So far 90 hours=2C no issues.=C2-
=3B
Thanks guys=2C Don
--- On Sat=2C 11/21/09=2C Jesse Saint = <=3Bjesse@saintaviation.com
>=3B wrote:
From: Jesse Saint <=3Bjesse@saintaviati= on.com>=3B
Subject: Re: RV10-List: side baffles side
It's enough work getting the front &=3B back assemblies on as it is= wi
thout having them tied together. =C2-=3BWhy add the fabrication work of
= making it all 1 piece?
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse@saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 21=2C 2009=2C at 12:02 PM=2C Don McDonald <=3Bbuilding_partn
er@yahoo.com>=3B wrote:
Tim=2C how is it more work to do=2C=2C=2C=2C=C2-=3B Only 7 sc
rews hol= ding it on the side=2C a few in fromt=2C and a few in back.
=C2-=3B And the= ones in the front and back are there no matter how m
any pieces the baffle = is made from....=C2-=3B and also=2C help me
out here.... is removing a cyl= inder something that I'm going to have t
o do very often?
Thanks=2C Don McDonald=C2-=3B
=C2-=3B
--- On Sat=2C 11/21/09=2C Tim Olson <=3B= Tim@myrv10.com>=3B wrot
e:
From: Tim Olson <=3BTim@m= yrv10.com>=3B
Subject: Re: RV10-List: side baffles side
9=2C 8:23 AM
-->=3B RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson &= lt=3BTim@myrv10.com>
=3B
You w= ouldn't like it if it came time to remove a cylinder.
You'd have a LOT m= ore work to do.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Pascal wrote:
>=3B -->=3B RV10-List message posted by: Pascal <= =3Brv10builder@v
erizon.net >=3B
>=3B
>=3B I am leaning toward using a single piece s= ide baffle on both sid
es
>=3B versus the 3 piece that comes with the V= AN's kit. Any one see an
y issues
>=3B with doing so? I know the indust= ry standard is three (one per
>=3B cylinder)and I gather there is a re= ason for that (movement of cy
linders)
>=3B so not sure if having a sin= gle piece will cause any =3D=C2-
=3B=C2-=3B=C2-=3Bthis year's Terrific Fr= ee Incentive Gifts pr
ovided
matronics.com/contribution" =C2-=3B =C2-=3B =C2-=3B= =C2-
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m/contribution
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tr
onics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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</
FONT>
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0-Li
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=AB=C3=A5y=C2=ABJ=C3i=C2=A2=C2=BBX=C2=A2=C3=C3=8B=C5-=C3=8BlN=C2=AC
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=A7=C2=B6+=C3=9E'=C3=AD=C2=B2=C5=A1=C3=A8=C2=BE'^v=C3=B2=0A=0A=0A
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned |
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Message 8
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I checked the 10 again today and found that #4 had a bad crimp on the sensor
side, as supplied. After fixing that, I again performed the heat gun test as
I did when installing originally. All but #4 showed a heat rise on the EIS.
I have concluded I have a failed probe.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thane States
Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: EGT sensor
I had one fail new right out of the box. Do a continuity check and see if
you have a bad lead. Mine had a bad lead inside the connector. Sent it
back for replacement!!
Thane
321BY
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007@cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 2:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: EGT sensor
I have GRT EIS sensors;
sent to GRT
"My #4 EGT sensor seems to be failing; temperature is consistently 500
degrees below others and bounces around by about 100 increments every second
or so; CHT normal. I ran a ground mag check at 1700 RPM and found the mag
drops to be 1630 and 1620, so I am relatively certain that the engine is
operating normal but sensor is not. Please advise. Aircraft is now at 210
TT."
Anyone else have similar issue?
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Odd Firewall Rivet Question |
Les, on mine (QB from early 2008), I have empty holes in the WD-1002/3, but
no corresponding hole in the firewall. This is consistent with my plans
(rev 0).
-Rob
On Sat, Nov 21, 2009 at 3:02 PM, Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca> wrote:
> Hi
>
>
> Ages ago, when I completed section 27 ' Firewall, I left 4 rivets open
that
> did not show on the plans. Just inboard of the engine mount bolt holes on
> the WD-1002 / 1003 L&R engine mounts there is a #30 hole. This hole is fo
und
> in both the firewall and on the engine mounts. Strangely, this =93extra
=94 hole
> is shown on the WD-1002-R-PC on page 27-2 (fig 2) of Rev 0 of the plans.
It
> does not appear anywhere else in the plans (that I can find).
>
>
> The rivet call outs on page 27-5 does not reference this hole nor is an
> AN426-AD4-5 rivet, the longest callout in the plans, long enough to fill
the
> hole.
>
>
> Before I fill these four holes with a longer rivet, can anyone tell me wh
at
> their plans indicate?
>
>
> Inquiring minds need to know.
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Les
>
> #40643
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 10
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| Subject: | Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned |
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Exterior Paint - Alodine first? |
Group,
I'm getting to the point of painting. I'm working with a local guy that works
with a aircraft maintenance / painting facility. Things are slow at work (not
many investing in paint jobs on jets or Kingair's :( ) and he has a body shop
at his house that we'll use and I plan to paint before first flight.
Question is around alodine. On the 7A, I didn't alodine at all but used a self
etching primer and sprayed over the top with Imron paint. I've had no problems
with the 7A but this time I'm working with a different individual and he is
suggesting etch/alodine before paint. I have no bias either way and would tend
to allow the "expert" to choose his method.
I'm curious if most "professional" shops etch/alodine or simply self etch prime
the exterior in prep for paint?
Thanks for any information on your experiences.
Doug
Do not archive
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always
find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=274326#274326
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Exterior Paint - Alodine first? |
I recommend you either use alodine or an etcher called "Prekote".
Prekote is much friendlier to work with.
Self etching primer does not do the job....
grumpy
N184JM
On Nov 22, 2009, at 2:48 PM, n277dl wrote:
>
> Group,
> I'm getting to the point of painting. I'm working with a local guy
> that works with a aircraft maintenance / painting facility. Things
> are slow at work (not many investing in paint jobs on jets or
> Kingair's :( ) and he has a body shop at his house that we'll use
> and I plan to paint before first flight.
>
> Question is around alodine. On the 7A, I didn't alodine at all but
> used a self etching primer and sprayed over the top with Imron
> paint. I've had no problems with the 7A but this time I'm working
> with a different individual and he is suggesting etch/alodine before
> paint. I have no bias either way and would tend to allow the
> "expert" to choose his method.
>
> I'm curious if most "professional" shops etch/alodine or simply self
> etch prime the exterior in prep for paint?
>
> Thanks for any information on your experiences.
>
> Doug
>
> Do not archive
>
> --------
> Doug
> "Fools" are always more creative than process people and
> will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=274326#274326
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Exterior Paint - Alodine first? |
I had poor prep results with Prekote, I used SW aluminum etch with a red scotchbrite
pad to prep the metal....Prekote requires much more physical labor to work...I
know the USAF uses it but they also have endless supplies if energetic
Airmen to scrub the air frame with it
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Miller John <gengrumpy@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Exterior Paint - Alodine first?
I recommend you either use alodine or an etcher called "Prekote".
Prekote is much friendlier to work with.
Self etching primer does not do the job....
grumpy
N184JM
On Nov 22, 2009, at 2:48 PM, n277dl wrote:
>
> Group,
> I'm getting to the point of painting. I'm working with a local guy
> that works with a aircraft maintenance / painting facility. Things
> are slow at work (not many investing in paint jobs on jets or
> Kingair's :( ) and he has a body shop at his house that we'll use
> and I plan to paint before first flight.
>
> Question is around alodine. On the 7A, I didn't alodine at all but
> used a self etching primer and sprayed over the top with Imron
> paint. I've had no problems with the 7A but this time I'm working
> with a different individual and he is suggesting etch/alodine before
> paint. I have no bias either way and would tend to allow the
> "expert" to choose his method.
>
> I'm curious if most "professional" shops etch/alodine or simply self
> etch prime the exterior in prep for paint?
>
> Thanks for any information on your experiences.
>
> Doug
>
> Do not archive
>
> --------
> Doug
> "Fools" are always more creative than process people and
> will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=274326#274326
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Exterior Paint - Alodine first? |
Etch and Alodine is the accepted aircraft method....auto body shops use automotive
methods except Land Rover...why? Aluminum body..Jet glow-made by SW recommends
Alodine under their epoxy primer...so if your painter wants it I'd go with
his recommendation....where is he gonna dump it in his garage after he applies
it?
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "n277dl" <dljinia@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Exterior Paint - Alodine first?
Group,
I'm getting to the point of painting. I'm working with a local guy that works
with a aircraft maintenance / painting facility. Things are slow at work (not
many investing in paint jobs on jets or Kingair's :( ) and he has a body shop
at his house that we'll use and I plan to paint before first flight.
Question is around alodine. On the 7A, I didn't alodine at all but used a self
etching primer and sprayed over the top with Imron paint. I've had no problems
with the 7A but this time I'm working with a different individual and he is
suggesting etch/alodine before paint. I have no bias either way and would tend
to allow the "expert" to choose his method.
I'm curious if most "professional" shops etch/alodine or simply self etch prime
the exterior in prep for paint?
Thanks for any information on your experiences.
Doug
Do not archive
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always
find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=274326#274326
Message 15
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| Subject: | control stick wiring |
I have received my Infinity grips and am trying to determine how to run
the big thick blue cable thru the stick, and out the bottom. Seems to
me, there would have to be considerable material removed to route the
cable thru the top of the stick where the vertical piece is welded to
the curved piece. This is a structural consideration. Another
consideration is the bottom of the tube, where there is all kinds of
monkey motion to impede upon by that cable. I'm thinking that clamping
the cable to the aft side of the stick and away from the bottom prior to
the monkey motion, would be must prudent, however, it would not look as
cool. Has anyone come up with a good idea for this?
Chris Hukill
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: control stick wiring |
Flight line interiors includes a leather like wrap to cover the stick
and an externally attached stick grip cable. It has worked fine for me
and I think it looks good.
Dick Sipp
From: Chris Hukill
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2009 6:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: control stick wiring
I have received my Infinity grips and am trying to determine how to run
the big thick blue cable thru the stick, and out the bottom. Seems to
me, there would have to be considerable material removed to route the
cable thru the top of the stick where the vertical piece is welded to
the curved piece. This is a structural consideration. Another
consideration is the bottom of the tube, where there is all kinds of
monkey motion to impede upon by that cable. I'm thinking that clamping
the cable to the aft side of the stick and away from the bottom prior to
the monkey motion, would be must prudent, however, it would not look as
cool. Has anyone come up with a good idea for this?
Chris Hukill
Message 17
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Has anyone found a stop leak inner tube for the main gear with a 90
degree valve stem?
Grumpy
N184JM
do not archive
Message 18
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>From the people I've talked to, with a stop leak type tube, don't worry abo
ut the stem.... you don't have to mess with air pressure but twice a year..
.. -when the weather changes from hot to cold, and cold to hot.... and by
then you should ck out your brakes anyway.
Don McDonald
--- On Sun, 11/22/09, Miller John <gengrumpy@aol.com> wrote:
From: Miller John <gengrumpy@aol.com>
Subject: RV10-List: inner tubes
Has anyone found a stop leak inner tube for the main gear with a 90 degree
valve stem?
Grumpy
N184JM
do not archive
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 19
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2 Duckworks DS1 35w for $740 or the 50w for $500. Why not buy the brighter for
less? Anyone know which is better? pros/cons?
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=274373#274373
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Landing lights |
Tough call. I have the 2 35W bulbs, since mine have been around a
while. I really think it's nice having the even lighting
of doing it on each wing. My old plane had one on the Left, with
2 bulbs, and the distribution wasn't as nice on the right side
of the runway. If it were a nose bulb, no big deal, but for a
wing it's kind of nice to have one per side. I can tell you that
the 35W bulbs are powerful enough in HID form that I wouldn't
bother with the 50W unless they were very close in price.
The catch is, you're comparing one bulb to two, which makes it
a tougher decision.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Strasnuts wrote:
>
> 2 Duckworks DS1 35w for $740 or the 50w for $500. Why not buy the brighter for
less? Anyone know which is better? pros/cons?
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=274373#274373
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Landing lights |
I should have written (2)DS1 35w HID's for $740 or (2)50w HID's for $500. Why
is the more powerful light more expensive. 500,000 candle light vs 320,000?
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=274375#274375
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Landing lights |
I guess I should read more before I bother everyone on Matronics. I just read
about the igniter being installed at the lamp than at the ballast which reduces
interference noise and shock. I will do Q and A by myself more often. Thanks
Tim, I will be buying the 35w phillips for each wing.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=274376#274376
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Landing lights |
I can't remember what changed when they came out. I'd call Don and
ask personally. It may just be that the 50w are more "common". I
suppose some people may want lower power draw too. I think the 50w
may be rectangular while the 35w are round but don't quote me on that.
Unless quality is different, I'd just go with the cheaper of the two
on a new install.
You'll love the HIDs!
Tim
On Nov 22, 2009, at 10:33 PM, "Strasnuts" <sean@braunandco.com> wrote:
>
> I should have written (2)DS1 35w HID's for $740 or (2)50w HID's for
> $500. Why is the more powerful light more expensive. 500,000
> candle light vs 320,000?
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=274375#274375
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Landing lights |
I have the Duckworth dual 35W and as I have posted many times I think
they are fantastic.
That being said on my 8A I am placing dual 50W Automotive HID's
available online. Something like $135/pair with water proof ballast that
you can hit with a hammer (saw it on a video some place). You can even
choose the light temperature (color) from a range of about 6. Keep in
mind these are bulbs/ballast/wiring, no lens. The lenses are available
through any NAPA type place for $6.00 each. The old RV builders use to
use these housings all the time for lighting but now they fit HID bulbs.
Between the automotive HID & automotive LED position lights plus Strobes
N More power supply & strobes and an aviation Strobe/LED tail light I
think my entire lighting system is about $500. I think it will compare
favorably against any other lighting package out there.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2009 8:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Landing lights
I should have written (2)DS1 35w HID's for $740 or (2)50w HID's for
$500. Why is the more powerful light more expensive. 500,000 candle
light vs 320,000?
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=274375#274375
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