Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:52 AM - Re: Feedback wanted (Michael Wellenzohn)
2. 03:17 AM - Re: Re: Feedback wanted (Linn Walters)
3. 06:19 AM - Re: Feedback wanted (Lew Gallagher)
4. 07:02 AM - Stick centering (Lew Gallagher)
5. 07:33 AM - Re: Stick centering (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
6. 07:33 AM - Re: Re: Feedback wanted (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
7. 08:10 AM - Re: Re: Feedback wanted (David McNeill)
8. 08:12 AM - Heat duct... YES (James Stribling)
9. 09:23 AM - Re: Stick centering (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
10. 09:45 AM - Re: Stick centering (Linn Walters)
11. 10:51 AM - Re: Stick centering (Don McDonald)
12. 01:33 PM - Re: Stick centering (Marcus Cooper)
13. 02:44 PM - Re: Heat duct... YES (Richard Gurley)
14. 03:52 PM - Baffle Clearance with Engine (Jae Chang)
15. 04:45 PM - Re: Baffle Clearance with Engine (David McNeill)
16. 05:03 PM - Cold Engine (Sheldon Olesen)
17. 07:15 PM - Re: Cold Engine (gary)
18. 07:32 PM - Re: Stick centering (Robin Marks)
19. 07:35 PM - Re: Baffle Clearance with Engine (Linn Walters)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Feedback wanted |
Thank you for all your great feedback. I'll see if I can use Adel clamps.
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276433#276433
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Feedback wanted |
Google 'rescue tape' ..... I bought their sampler kit with 6 or 7 colors.
Linn
AirMike wrote:
>
> I am with Dave - I used a roll of silicone tape from Spruce to tie it
> all together. It is awesome. Use a scissors to cut the 1" strips into
> 1/2" strips and wrap it around anything loose. EGT. CHT wires,
> ignition, all the ignition wires and EFIS wires, and as an anti
> chafe. I think that it goes to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Even if the
> cable ties do not melt on you they harden and break over time. Only
> behind the firewall.
>
> -------- OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276425#276425
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Feedback wanted |
Hey Linn,
I like the silicone tape also. I shopped around and settled on F4 tape at Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/F4-Tape-Self-fusing-Silicone-Oxide/dp/B001HETINI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1260108700&sr=8-1
The blurb says "avation", it got an excellent review, and I got two rolls to qualify
for free shipping. It is very easy to cut, as you say, and very simple
to add more wires to the bundle later by adding another strip.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276447#276447
Message 4
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Hey Guys,
Since I'm not a pilot, I'm asking this on behalf of my owner/pilot partner -- be
gentle!
He says this is the first plane he has seen that doesn't have a mechanism for bringing
the stick back to center. I.e. hands off, the plane should level out
if trimmed correctly. Keep in mind that he has not yet gone for his cross training
in an RV-10, so this is all speculation. Maybe in flight, it does center?
I've read here about when "dialed in" the -10 flies itself, but it think that was
in reference to AP discussions. In spite of my strong encouragement that he
should install an AP (after reading here about the advantages), he insists it's
all about actively flying for him, not riding.
So I guess the direct question is: Without an AP installed, have others addressed
this with springs, or whatever, or is it really not an issue?
Thanks, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276452#276452
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Stick centering |
The AP adds some resistance to the system but doesn't hold the stick in position.
When I remove my hand from the stick, if trimmed properly the aircraft continues
to fly straight and level...I'm assuming the air pressures are keeping the
control surfaces in aerodynamic place I've never flown an aircraft with a
spring return except the ones on my R/C transmitter Build it as designed it does
work quite well
Rick Sked
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Stick centering
Hey Guys,
Since I'm not a pilot, I'm asking this on behalf of my owner/pilot partner -- be
gentle!
He says this is the first plane he has seen that doesn't have a mechanism for bringing
the stick back to center. I.e. hands off, the plane should level out
if trimmed correctly. Keep in mind that he has not yet gone for his cross training
in an RV-10, so this is all speculation. Maybe in flight, it does center?
I've read here about when "dialed in" the -10 flies itself, but it think that was
in reference to AP discussions. In spite of my strong encouragement that he
should install an AP (after reading here about the advantages), he insists it's
all about actively flying for him, not riding.
So I guess the direct question is: Without an AP installed, have others addressed
this with springs, or whatever, or is it really not an issue?
Thanks, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276452#276452
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Feedback wanted |
FWIW....it also works well on
F-16s, A-10s, F-15s and every make and model of car I've ever owned...F-4 tape
is a pretty general description since there was so many types of tape used to
keep them flying....albeit the red silicone variety was the official first "F-4"
tape...it also makes good Superballs !!!!
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Feedback wanted
Hey Linn,
I like the silicone tape also. I shopped around and settled on F4 tape at Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/F4-Tape-Self-fusing-Silicone-Oxide/dp/B001HETINI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1260108700&sr=8-1
The blurb says "avation", it got an excellent review, and I got two rolls to qualify
for free shipping. It is very easy to cut, as you say, and very simple
to add more wires to the bundle later by adding another strip.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276447#276447
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Feedback wanted |
Check this for under the cowl
http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-11847/High-Temperature-Tapes/1-x-12-yd
s-Black-Silicone-Self-Fusing-Tape
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 7:18 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Feedback wanted
Hey Linn,
I like the silicone tape also. I shopped around and settled on F4 tape at
Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/F4-Tape-Self-fusing-Silicone-Oxide/dp/B001HETINI/ref=s
r_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1260108700&sr=8-1
The blurb says "avation", it got an excellent review, and I got two rolls to
qualify for free shipping. It is very easy to cut, as you say, and very
simple to add more wires to the bundle later by adding another strip.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276447#276447
Message 8
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| Subject: | Heat duct... YES |
YES!
James Stribling
812.342.6637
jlstrib@comcast.net
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter James
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 3:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear seat heat duct
Hello folks,
As an early kit purchaser, I, like many, have a problem with the 'stock'
heat tube issue for the back seat as it goes past the fuel selector valve.
I have solved the problem. In the attached pictures, I made a plug out of
wood. We vacuumed bagged a part for my plane..so my problem is solved. But
I also sent pictures to a plastics injection mold shop, and a roto-mold
shop. Injection molding was 3 times the cost of the roto-molding. I have a
quote back from the roto-mold shop that may make it viable to pay to have
the tooling made and parts cast. I estimate that we would need to order
about 200 units to make the time and money worth the effort. An expected
price would be $70-75, with another $5 or $10 for boxing and postage. They
estimate the part will weigh about 6/10ths of a pound.
I do realize that the problem has been solved in later kits. I also realize
that many solved the problem by installing an Adair valve. But I also think
that hundreds of kits shipped with the same issue, and many are facing the
same issue. I chose to make my own part --- the on-going reason my plane
still isn't flying! I need to know if there is demand for this part to be
made. If so, I can pursue having it done. If not, I will spend my time
completing my plane. So open the flood gates - drop me a response. When
you respond, put something in the subject line like HEAT DUCT YES, or HEAT
DUCT NO to make a quick survey of my inbox possible.
Pete James
RV-10 Escalade - heavy & gas guzzling, yet comfortable!
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Stick centering |
I don't thinks it's an issue. Here's the explanation that I have in my
head to understand what's happening-
The aircraft we fly, when in flight, are positively stable in pitch.
That is, once trimmed and then disturbed hands off, the aircraft will
return to the trimmed state after a few oscillations. This is
accomplished in a variety of ways that may include springs and weights
in the control system. But it doesn't have anything to do with the
stick returning to a center.
The same aircraft when in flight are not positively stable in roll.
They may remain level if not disturbed in absolutely still air (no such
thing). Hands off, at some point, they will fall off in one direction
or another and enter a spiral. But that doesn't have anything to do
with the stick returning to center either.
Generally speaking, one of the neat things about experimental aircraft
is that they can be less stable in certain ways than certified
aircraft. That often means less junk in the control system which means
a more pleasant and responsive control experience. But too little
stability or too much responsiveness can mean trouble too.
This is going to be interesting because there's a lot stuff to
understand about stability - dynamic, static, longitudinal, lateral,
convergent, divergent, etc. I only understand most of it when I'm
staring at a text book.
Bill
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> Since I'm not a pilot, I'm asking this on behalf of my owner/pilot partner --
be gentle!
>
> He says this is the first plane he has seen that doesn't have a mechanism for
bringing the stick back to center. I.e. hands off, the plane should level out
if trimmed correctly. Keep in mind that he has not yet gone for his cross
training in an RV-10, so this is all speculation. Maybe in flight, it does center?
>
> I've read here about when "dialed in" the -10 flies itself, but it think that
was in reference to AP discussions. In spite of my strong encouragement that
he should install an AP (after reading here about the advantages), he insists
it's all about actively flying for him, not riding.
>
> So I guess the direct question is: Without an AP installed, have others addressed
this with springs, or whatever, or is it really not an issue?
>
> Thanks, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Painting done!
> On with wiring and avionics.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276452#276452
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Stick centering |
Since I'm not flying mine ...... I don't think you'll need any 'spring
trim'. You have elevator trim available, and rudder trim can be as
simple as a piece of wood taped to the rudder or aileron trailing edge.
I'm going to have active rudder and aileron trim ..... a piece of hinge
riveted to the trailing edge and driven by a model airplane servo.
As to being 'dialed in' .... I think it's still referring to rigging
.... which means all the stuff out in the air is really pointing in the
correct direction, and in relation to each other. So many things affect
flying 'trim' so it's a fairly long process to tweak the surfaces so
everything is aerodynamically correct.
Linn
Lew Gallagher wrote:
> <lewgall@charter.net>
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> Since I'm not a pilot, I'm asking this on behalf of my owner/pilot
> partner -- be gentle!
>
> He says this is the first plane he has seen that doesn't have a
> mechanism for bringing the stick back to center. I.e. hands off, the
> plane should level out if trimmed correctly. Keep in mind that he
> has not yet gone for his cross training in an RV-10, so this is all
> speculation. Maybe in flight, it does center?
>
> I've read here about when "dialed in" the -10 flies itself, but it
> think that was in reference to AP discussions. In spite of my strong
> encouragement that he should install an AP (after reading here about
> the advantages), he insists it's all about actively flying for him,
> not riding.
>
> So I guess the direct question is: Without an AP installed, have
> others addressed this with springs, or whatever, or is it really not
> an issue?
>
> Thanks, - Lew
>
> -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Painting done! On with wiring and avionics.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276452#276452
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Stick centering |
Hey Lew, Don here.....- I believe that actual-"centering" would be of n
o hope for actually flying any aircraft on a distinct heading and altitude.
- For every flight the wt & bal changes, and if that wasn't enough, the w
t & bal changes during flight.- So say the stick returns to center,,,, th
e same center you'll have one day with a 250lb guy sitting next to you, and
then the following day flying with yourself.- Or one day with no baggage
and the next day with 100lbs.--- Then what about fuel burn?- I sup
pose you could fly your heading based on fuel burn.... veering a little lef
t, switch to the left tank for awhile.....
I can't imagine anyone who was building a 10,,,,, for the reasons one would
actually build a 10, and not-install an AP.
Although I was really leaning to rudder and aileron trim while building, no
w that I'm flying, I don't find much need for either one.- Plane flies al
most perfect in the vast majority of conditions.... the rest of the time, i
t flies almost perfect!
Ok, that's my 2cents
Don McDonald
New pilot, 90+ hours, and enjoying the %$&* out of it!
--- On Sun, 12/6/09, Lew Gallagher <lewgall@charter.net> wrote:
From: Lew Gallagher <lewgall@charter.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Stick centering
Hey Guys,
Since I'm not a pilot, I'm asking this on behalf of my owner/pilot partner
-- be gentle!
He says this is the first plane he has seen that doesn't have a mechanism f
or bringing the stick back to center.- I.e. hands off, the plane should l
evel out if trimmed correctly.---Keep in mind that he has not yet gon
e for his cross training in an RV-10, so this is all speculation.- Maybe
in flight, it does center?-
I've read here about when "dialed in" the -10 flies itself, but it think th
at was in reference to AP discussions.- In spite of my strong encourageme
nt that he should install an AP (after reading here about the advantages),
he insists it's all about actively flying for him, not riding.-
So I guess the direct question is:- Without an AP installed, have others
addressed this with springs, or whatever, or is it really not an issue?
Thanks, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276452#276452
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 12
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|
Lew,
I think the other messages may have answered your question, but the
simple answer is airloads return the controls to neutral. I don't know what
your partner has been flying, but all the light general aviation airplanes
I've ever flown don't have a spring centering system (with the exception of
my Q-2 but it was a spring biased trim system so doesn't really count). If
you go out to any light Cessna or Piper and move the ailerons they will stay
that way during preflight. The elevator falls because of the weight. The
rudder may center but primarily due to springs that keep the rudder pedals
forward. Airborne it's a non-event and the stick will return to center
based on trim settings.
Don't give up on your pitch for the autopilot. Lots of recent discussion
about it regarding IFR flying, but while I am definitely a stick and rudder
guy as much as possible, the autopilot has made longer trips very pleasant
and less taxing allowing me to arrive more refreshed.
Marcus
40286
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 10:02 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Stick centering
Hey Guys,
Since I'm not a pilot, I'm asking this on behalf of my owner/pilot partner
-- be gentle!
He says this is the first plane he has seen that doesn't have a mechanism
for bringing the stick back to center. I.e. hands off, the plane should
level out if trimmed correctly. Keep in mind that he has not yet gone for
his cross training in an RV-10, so this is all speculation. Maybe in
flight, it does center?
I've read here about when "dialed in" the -10 flies itself, but it think
that was in reference to AP discussions. In spite of my strong
encouragement that he should install an AP (after reading here about the
advantages), he insists it's all about actively flying for him, not riding.
So I guess the direct question is: Without an AP installed, have others
addressed this with springs, or whatever, or is it really not an issue?
Thanks, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276452#276452
Message 13
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| Subject: | Heat duct... YES |
Pete -
This sounds very interesting. I can not find the pictures?
Dick Gurley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James
Stribling
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 11:11 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Heat duct... YES
YES!
James Stribling
812.342.6637
jlstrib@comcast.net
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter James
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 3:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear seat heat duct
Hello folks,
As an early kit purchaser, I, like many, have a problem with the
'stock'
heat tube issue for the back seat as it goes past the fuel selector
valve.
I have solved the problem. In the attached pictures, I made a plug out
of
wood. We vacuumed bagged a part for my plane..so my problem is solved.
But
I also sent pictures to a plastics injection mold shop, and a roto-mold
shop. Injection molding was 3 times the cost of the roto-molding. I
have a
quote back from the roto-mold shop that may make it viable to pay to
have
the tooling made and parts cast. I estimate that we would need to order
about 200 units to make the time and money worth the effort. An
expected
price would be $70-75, with another $5 or $10 for boxing and postage.
They
estimate the part will weigh about 6/10ths of a pound.
I do realize that the problem has been solved in later kits. I also
realize
that many solved the problem by installing an Adair valve. But I also
think
that hundreds of kits shipped with the same issue, and many are facing
the
same issue. I chose to make my own part --- the on-going reason my
plane
still isn't flying! I need to know if there is demand for this part to
be
made. If so, I can pursue having it done. If not, I will spend my time
completing my plane. So open the flood gates - drop me a response.
When
you respond, put something in the subject line like HEAT DUCT YES, or
HEAT
DUCT NO to make a quick survey of my inbox possible.
Pete James
RV-10 Escalade - heavy & gas guzzling, yet comfortable!
Message 14
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| Subject: | Baffle Clearance with Engine |
Hi, I just wanted to do a sanity check before trimming. I am doing the
initial fitting of the aft #6 cylinder baffle assembly to the engine. I
have a little bit of the baffle rubbing with the engine mounting ears
and some around the curvy part of the engine by the rear baffle mount,
bolted to the engine.
1. It's okay to trim some of the baffle material away to create a bit of
clearance with the engine? I can't imagine leaving this rubbing, as it
will rub engine paint off and then eventually something more.
2. Did anyone else have to remove half the engine mounts to install the
#5 and #6 aft baffles? It gets tight in that space between the engine
and mounts and that was the only way I could accomplish it.
I was a bit worried about undoing the one of the top engine mount bolts,
but the engine did not torque itself off the mount, thankfully.
Jae
40533
Message 15
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| Subject: | Baffle Clearance with Engine |
Suggest putting chicken trak around the baffling edges that rub and proseal
the trak in place. Then you won't have the baffling abrading the mounting
ears.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jae Chang
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 4:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Baffle Clearance with Engine
Hi, I just wanted to do a sanity check before trimming. I am doing the
initial fitting of the aft #6 cylinder baffle assembly to the engine. I have
a little bit of the baffle rubbing with the engine mounting ears and some
around the curvy part of the engine by the rear baffle mount, bolted to the
engine.
1. It's okay to trim some of the baffle material away to create a bit of
clearance with the engine? I can't imagine leaving this rubbing, as it will
rub engine paint off and then eventually something more.
2. Did anyone else have to remove half the engine mounts to install the
#5 and #6 aft baffles? It gets tight in that space between the engine and
mounts and that was the only way I could accomplish it.
I was a bit worried about undoing the one of the top engine mount bolts, but
the engine did not torque itself off the mount, thankfully.
Jae
40533
Message 16
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I went flying yesterday when the temp was about 20 F. I was flying
LOP at about 60% power and had cylinders that were in the 250's and
oil at 140. The oil cooler has a cockpit actuated valve that
controls airflow to the cooler and it was fully closed. I know I
need to block the airflow into the engine. What's the best way to
accomplish this and how much reduction will be needed?
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 127 hours
Message 17
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This certainly isn't the most elegant way but duct tape off about 1/2 of the
inlet area on your cowl to start. If you get a warm day, peal off the tape.
If you want to spend the time you can build some aluminum baffles to mount
on the front of the inlet for a more elegant solution.
Gary Specketer.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sheldon Olesen
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 7:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cold Engine
I went flying yesterday when the temp was about 20 F. I was flying
LOP at about 60% power and had cylinders that were in the 250's and
oil at 140. The oil cooler has a cockpit actuated valve that
controls airflow to the cooler and it was fully closed. I know I
need to block the airflow into the engine. What's the best way to
accomplish this and how much reduction will be needed?
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 127 hours
Message 18
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Lew,
I appreciate your partner wanting to actively fly the plane
however safely flying the plane is also something to think about. I
Cessna 152 class airplane may not need an AP but this serious cross
country machine like this RV-10 does. Someone will fly this plane on
regular cross countries and having tools like automatically holding
altitude and heading is both a comfort and safety issue. Don't want it,
then don't use it. Reducing pilot workload comes in many forms and not
having to hold a plane within is couple hundred feet and on course for 4
hours and then be fresh enough for a difficult landing conditions can be
considered a safety issue. Auto pilots are also great for sightseeing,
sapping a photo, reaching for the jug of water or the urine bottle.
Without an AP you are have a statistically higher chance of taking a
swig out of the urine bottle. How about resale? I don't think anyone
wants to buy an RV-10 w/o and AP installed. I can think of many more
important reasons to add the AP to your build. I can't think of any to
not install one. They don't have to be $15K budget busters. My RV-6A had
a $1,700 AP driven by my Garmin 396 and it was the best thing that ever
happened to that plane. Don't ask me what the worst thing was... :-(
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 7:02 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Stick centering
Hey Guys,
Since I'm not a pilot, I'm asking this on behalf of my owner/pilot
partner -- be gentle!
He says this is the first plane he has seen that doesn't have a
mechanism for bringing the stick back to center. I.e. hands off, the
plane should level out if trimmed correctly. Keep in mind that he has
not yet gone for his cross training in an RV-10, so this is all
speculation. Maybe in flight, it does center?
I've read here about when "dialed in" the -10 flies itself, but it think
that was in reference to AP discussions. In spite of my strong
encouragement that he should install an AP (after reading here about the
advantages), he insists it's all about actively flying for him, not
riding.
So I guess the direct question is: Without an AP installed, have others
addressed this with springs, or whatever, or is it really not an issue?
Thanks, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276452#276452
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
12/06/09 19:37:00
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Baffle Clearance with Engine |
Typically the baffling will 'mold' itself around the mounts where it
rubs. The baffling is much softer and will make it's own interference
fit. Trimming and high temp red silicone work really well tool.
Linn
do not archive
David McNeill wrote:
>
> Suggest putting chicken trak around the baffling edges that rub and proseal
> the trak in place. Then you won't have the baffling abrading the mounting
> ears.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jae Chang
> Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 4:51 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Baffle Clearance with Engine
>
>
> Hi, I just wanted to do a sanity check before trimming. I am doing the
> initial fitting of the aft #6 cylinder baffle assembly to the engine. I have
> a little bit of the baffle rubbing with the engine mounting ears and some
> around the curvy part of the engine by the rear baffle mount, bolted to the
> engine.
>
> 1. It's okay to trim some of the baffle material away to create a bit of
> clearance with the engine? I can't imagine leaving this rubbing, as it will
> rub engine paint off and then eventually something more.
>
> 2. Did anyone else have to remove half the engine mounts to install the
> #5 and #6 aft baffles? It gets tight in that space between the engine and
> mounts and that was the only way I could accomplish it.
>
> I was a bit worried about undoing the one of the top engine mount bolts, but
> the engine did not torque itself off the mount, thankfully.
>
> Jae
> 40533
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
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