Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:50 AM - Re: Re: Voyager Lifetime chart subscription (Jesse Saint)
2. 06:41 PM - Nylon Brake Tee Replacement (Patrick Pulis)
3. 06:59 PM - Weld-On case study #605 (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
4. 06:59 PM - Re: Nylon Brake Tee Replacement (Linn Walters)
5. 07:44 PM - Re: Weld-On case study #605 (Seano)
6. 07:53 PM - Re: Weld-On case study #605 (nukeflyboy)
7. 08:15 PM - Re: G3i Ignition (sc_acro2)
8. 08:41 PM - Re: Re: Weld-On case study #605 (Dave Leikam)
9. 09:25 PM - Re: Nylon Brake Tee Replacement (Deems Davis)
10. 09:44 PM - Re: Re: G3i Ignition (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Voyager Lifetime chart subscription |
I think the only XM thing built into the 496 is the software. The XM "box" is
the hockey puck antenna. That is the whole XM receiver. I wonder if anybody
has been able to decode the data stream coming from the receiver to be able to
use it with another system.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Dec 13, 2009, at 11:40 PM, dougwells wrote:
>
> Hi Don,
>
> I'm not 100% sure but I think the wx weather has to come from XM's WX box. The
team at Seattle Avionics could tell you for sure. I have a seperate XM box
that picks up the weather and then communicates it to my SkyPad via bluetooth.
>
> On the 496, as you know, the XM "box" is built into the unit. Great idea and
I wish all vendors could offer this for their system but I guess Garmin has the
exclusive right to have the XM box being built in. Smart of Garmin, I guess.
>
> I would be once you have the SkyPad, you would not want/need your 496. All you
would need is the XM bluetooth box and you should be good to go....
>
> Best,
>
> Doug
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277466#277466
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Nylon Brake Tee Replacement |
For those of you who have installed the aftermarket Matco brake lines, coul
d someone please tell me what replacement Tee fitting they used in lieu of
the nylon Tee.- Is a single replacement fitting available which screws in
to the brake fluid reservoir which protrudes through the firewall?=0A-=0A
Install the F-271-N-04X02 Male Nylon Tee to the VA-107 Brake Reservoir as s
hown in Figure 3.=0AConnect the brake lines created on Page 38-6 to the F-7
=271-N-04X02 Male Nylon Tee as shown in Figure 2 and Figure 3.=0A-=0AKi
nd regards and well wishes for the festive season to you all.=0A-=0APatri
ck Pulis=0A#40299=0AAdelaide, South Australia=0A=0A=0A _______________
___________________________________________________________________=0ASee w
hat's on at the movies in your area. Find out now: http://au.movies.yahoo.c
om/session-times/
Message 3
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| Subject: | Weld-On case study #605 |
I just finished doing my 2 right side windows using Weld-On. It went
well and I feel confident finishing up with it. Thought I'd share the
experience.
Going into it, I bought the Weld-On before thoroughly researching
peoples' experiences documented here on the list. In the end, I decided
that I wouldn't go the epoxy resin and flock route because I sensed this
would be the least strong solution. I didn't take Dave Saylor's
approach to an easily replaceable window because it was the most
demanding in terms of craftsmanship. In any case, I intended to
overlay the joint with cloth and resin for a good finish. I would have
probably tried one of the other adhesives discussed here by others but I
had already made the investment in Weld-On from Vans. So I went with
the factory solution.
Weld-on has a strong chemical/plastic kind of smell and it can linger.
Might not be the best thing to use in an attached garage. Even though
it was cold out, I ran an exhaust fan and let some air thru so the
smell didn't build up. I wore a simple paper mask the first time but
used a mask with fresh filter cannisters the second and felt better
about it. Closing up the containers and otherwise disposing of all
droppings helps.
I used the aluminum fingers and cleco clamping method exclusively. I
removed the fingers about 90 minutes after setting them. Works well so
far.
Weld-on sets up fast but not too fast. My shop was probably in the low
70s and dropping. When I added the catalyst, I didn't try to get every
last drop. Mixed for 3 minutes and started applying it using an acid
brush.
Is Weld-on is too thin and runny? It's ok, at least at 70F degrees.
Not that hard to handle.
Per some advice here on the list, I put a thick lumpy bead near the
outside edge of the cutout. That is, in the crotch of the "L". On the
first window I didn't apply any directly to the window. On the second,
I put a thin layer on the window with the same bead on the fuselage. As
someone said, it easier to clean up the excess than to fill up any
gaps. That worked well. I was really rushed trying to make sure I
didn't run out of working time but there was no need. It seems to skin
over pretty quickly but actually a certain amount of drying seems to
form a skin on small portions of adhesive. But if you go back to the
mixing cup, you won't find a skin and there's no change in consistency
after say 15 or 20 minutes. So you actually have lots of working time.
When it does set, it does heat up in the cup so be careful about
disposing in the trash before set up.
Weld-on forms messy little strings if you try to work with it quickly.
The solution here is to slow down and don't form strings. There's
plenty of time. And it cleans up easily even after it starts to set up.
Regarding surface prep and clean-up; I used acetone as the last step in
surface prep with the thought that "it does matter how much you use".
For clean-up I used a 50:50 mix of acetone and mineral spirits. This
works pretty well even an hour or two after starting.
I found that brush on protective film from Spruce useful. I tried
keeping the plastic from the factory on the Plexiglas but found that
replacing it with the brush on stuff gave me a clearer view of things.
So once I trimmed the plexi down to it's final size, I removed the outer
plastic and brushed on the blue stuff from Spruce. Then I removed the
plastic from the inner surface and used plastic tape to mask the glue
line. I used paper to mask of the inner surface to protect from the
Weld-on. After gluing and clamping the plexi in place, I cleaned up
the squeezed out Weld-on with the 50:50 mix, Then removed the tape and
paper on the inner surface. This left a pretty clean line but a small
spatula helped cleanup up some squeeze-out and the 50:50 mix cleaned up
the rest. I'll probably coat the inner surface with the brush on film
to protect from scratches during interior work.
There seems to be several workable approaches to gluing in the windows.
The factory approach with Weld-on seems to work well when combined with
the intelligence on this list.
Thanks to those who wrote up their experiences before.
Bill "window 3 is teed up for tomorrow" Watson
40605
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Nylon Brake Tee Replacement |
Patrick, there's really no reason to change those fittings ...... unless
you just don't like the way the lines 'flow'. I didn't, so I used a
brass 'T' with a nipple to connect the foot of the 'T' to the reservoir,
and two 90's so that the lines flow parallel back to the cylinders .....
trimmed the plastic lines and used brass compression fittings on the
tubing. Don't forget the insert inside the plastic tube.
I also switched the plastic lines from the passenger side to the pilot
side from the plastic to hard aluminum ..... which required inverting
the master cylinders. I'll have aluminum lines from the passenger
master cylinders all the way to the lower end of the gear leg, and
switch to a short piece of flex to the brake cylinder. Inverting the
master cylinders meant welding a longer tab to the pedal. I just didn't
like the plastic on the pressure side, and the way the plastic tubing
looked like spaghetti tossed in there. I know, you can't see it when
the airplane's done .... but I know what it looks like.
Linn
Patrick Pulis wrote:
> *For those of you who have installed the aftermarket Matco brake
> lines, could someone please tell me what replacement Tee fitting they
> used in lieu of the nylon Tee. Is a single replacement fitting
> available which screws into the brake fluid reservoir which protrudes
> through the firewall?*
> **
> *Install the F-271-N-04X02 Male Nylon Tee to the VA-107 Brake
> Reservoir as shown in Figure 3.*
>
> **
>
> *Connect the brake lines created on Page 38-6 to the F-7=271-N-04X02
> Male Nylon Tee as shown in Figure 2 and Figure 3.*
>
> **
>
> *Kind regards and well wishes for the festive season to you all.*
>
> **
>
> *Patrick Pulis*
>
> *#40299*
>
> *Adelaide, South Australia*
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> See what's on at the movies in your area. Find out now
> <http://au.rd.yahoo.com/movies/mailtagline/*http://au.movies.yahoo.com/session-times/>.
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Weld-On case study #605 |
Thanks for the helpful write-up. I will be using Weld-On as well and it's
coming up soon on my build.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 8:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Weld-On case study #605
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I just finished doing my 2 right side windows using Weld-On. It went well
> and I feel confident finishing up with it. Thought I'd share the
> experience.
>
> Going into it, I bought the Weld-On before thoroughly researching
> peoples' experiences documented here on the list. In the end, I decided
> that I wouldn't go the epoxy resin and flock route because I sensed this
> would be the least strong solution. I didn't take Dave Saylor's approach
> to an easily replaceable window because it was the most demanding in terms
> of craftsmanship. In any case, I intended to overlay the joint with
> cloth and resin for a good finish. I would have probably tried one of the
> other adhesives discussed here by others but I had already made the
> investment in Weld-On from Vans. So I went with the factory solution.
>
> Weld-on has a strong chemical/plastic kind of smell and it can linger.
> Might not be the best thing to use in an attached garage. Even though it
> was cold out, I ran an exhaust fan and let some air thru so the smell
> didn't build up. I wore a simple paper mask the first time but used a
> mask with fresh filter cannisters the second and felt better about it.
> Closing up the containers and otherwise disposing of all droppings helps.
>
> I used the aluminum fingers and cleco clamping method exclusively. I
> removed the fingers about 90 minutes after setting them. Works well so
> far.
>
> Weld-on sets up fast but not too fast. My shop was probably in the low
> 70s and dropping. When I added the catalyst, I didn't try to get every
> last drop. Mixed for 3 minutes and started applying it using an acid
> brush.
> Is Weld-on is too thin and runny? It's ok, at least at 70F degrees. Not
> that hard to handle.
> Per some advice here on the list, I put a thick lumpy bead near the
> outside edge of the cutout. That is, in the crotch of the "L". On the
> first window I didn't apply any directly to the window. On the second, I
> put a thin layer on the window with the same bead on the fuselage. As
> someone said, it easier to clean up the excess than to fill up any gaps.
> That worked well. I was really rushed trying to make sure I didn't run
> out of working time but there was no need. It seems to skin over pretty
> quickly but actually a certain amount of drying seems to form a skin on
> small portions of adhesive. But if you go back to the mixing cup, you
> won't find a skin and there's no change in consistency after say 15 or 20
> minutes. So you actually have lots of working time. When it does set, it
> does heat up in the cup so be careful about disposing in the trash before
> set up.
> Weld-on forms messy little strings if you try to work with it quickly.
> The solution here is to slow down and don't form strings. There's plenty
> of time. And it cleans up easily even after it starts to set up.
>
> Regarding surface prep and clean-up; I used acetone as the last step in
> surface prep with the thought that "it does matter how much you use". For
> clean-up I used a 50:50 mix of acetone and mineral spirits. This works
> pretty well even an hour or two after starting.
> I found that brush on protective film from Spruce useful. I tried
> keeping the plastic from the factory on the Plexiglas but found that
> replacing it with the brush on stuff gave me a clearer view of things.
> So once I trimmed the plexi down to it's final size, I removed the outer
> plastic and brushed on the blue stuff from Spruce. Then I removed the
> plastic from the inner surface and used plastic tape to mask the glue
> line. I used paper to mask of the inner surface to protect from the
> Weld-on. After gluing and clamping the plexi in place, I cleaned up the
> squeezed out Weld-on with the 50:50 mix, Then removed the tape and paper
> on the inner surface. This left a pretty clean line but a small spatula
> helped cleanup up some squeeze-out and the 50:50 mix cleaned up the rest.
> I'll probably coat the inner surface with the brush on film to protect
> from scratches during interior work.
>
> There seems to be several workable approaches to gluing in the windows.
> The factory approach with Weld-on seems to work well when combined with
> the intelligence on this list.
>
> Thanks to those who wrote up their experiences before.
> Bill "window 3 is teed up for tomorrow" Watson
> 40605
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Weld-On case study #605 |
Bill,
My experience was very similar to yours. I had no difficulty with the Weld-on
except I was too stingy with my first window. Put it on thick is the best advice.
It comes off easy enough with a little attention. The trick is to not wait
too long to start the cleanup but not start it too early. I also used the
aluminum clips to hold it in place.
The only caution is to be careful with acetone near the plexi. All ketones are
damaging and can cause crazing or clouding of the plexi. As long as you only
use it where you plan to cover it with a layer of glass you should be ok.
Having had a fiberglass strip epoxied to an RV-6 canopy depart in flight (two separate
occasions) I don't trust epoxy to bond to plexiglass.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277569#277569
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: G3i Ignition |
OK guys, you left me out on this topic.
This forum topic was brought up earlier today during a phone conversation so I
thought I would take a look. Little confusion, however not to bad. First of all
there are a lot of good facts here and some that might need more insight.
!) Does the G3i advance the timing beyond the magneto trigger points signal (NO)
2) Does it have an option to control timing (YES) manually?
2) Is it necessary to advance the timing on a multiple spark discharge system in
aircraft use? (NO) Heres why, the engines RPM operating is very small window
2100 - 2700, not like in an automobile 700 5000 rpm. When there is a small RPM
operating range optimal performance and economy can be obtained with fixed
timing. There is not much to gain by driving the timing all over the place. Are
there benefits to advancing the timing on a SINGLE spark system? Only at low
power settings (60% or less) and higher than 12,500ft. This is a quote from Unison/
Lasar. With the understanding flame propagation heres why. X amount of
air fuel mixture goes into the cylinder creates X amount of btu. When flame travel
is slow you need to ramp up the ignition timing on a SINGLE spark system
to get that complete burn @ peak cylinder pressure. Now with a non advancing MULTABLE
spark discharge system with same amount of fuel, same amount of btus created,
however this done in a shorter window of time from the multiple spark
ignition of the air fuel mixture to get that complete burn. Just happens quicker.
As far as air fuel mixture in aircraft engine, it is very poor atomization
so multiple spark discharge just does a better job then a single spark system.
3) Field tested and testimonials show that fuel economy is improved 8 to 14% and
static dyno pulls have shown an average 2 5% in power gains with stock timing
configurations.
There are many more benefits that the G3i system offers and we are always open
to any discussion or questions pertaining to aircraft ignition systems or engine
management peripherals.
Thanks for all your interest in the G3i system
Thomas Shpakow
www.g3ignition.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277572#277572
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Weld-On case study #605 |
I found putting the mixed Weldon in a triangular squeeze bag with about a
1/4 inch cut opening works really well to apply a nice bead. And yes, you
have to work steady, but there is plenty of time to do a good job.
Dave Leikam
----- Original Message -----
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore@charter.net>
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 9:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Weld-On case study #605
>
> Bill,
>
> My experience was very similar to yours. I had no difficulty with the
> Weld-on except I was too stingy with my first window. Put it on thick is
> the best advice. It comes off easy enough with a little attention. The
> trick is to not wait too long to start the cleanup but not start it too
> early. I also used the aluminum clips to hold it in place.
>
> The only caution is to be careful with acetone near the plexi. All
> ketones are damaging and can cause crazing or clouding of the plexi. As
> long as you only use it where you plan to cover it with a layer of glass
> you should be ok.
>
> Having had a fiberglass strip epoxied to an RV-6 canopy depart in flight
> (two separate occasions) I don't trust epoxy to bond to plexiglass.
>
> --------
> Dave Moore
> RV-6 flying
> RV-10 QB - FWF
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277569#277569
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Nylon Brake Tee Replacement |
If you're talking about the Bonaco brake lines, Yup just an AN Tee fitting.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Final%20Assembly/slides/DSC06980.html
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Patrick Pulis wrote:
> *For those of you who have installed the aftermarket Matco brake
> lines, could someone please tell me what replacement Tee fitting they
> used in lieu of the nylon Tee. Is a single replacement fitting
> available which screws into the brake fluid reservoir which protrudes
> through the firewall?*
> **
> *Install the F-271-N-04X02 Male Nylon Tee to the VA-107 Brake
> Reservoir as shown in Figure 3.*
>
> **
>
> *Connect the brake lines created on Page 38-6 to the F-7=271-N-04X02
> Male Nylon Tee as shown in Figure 2 and Figure 3.*
>
> **
>
> *Kind regards and well wishes for the festive season to you all.*
>
> **
>
> *Patrick Pulis*
>
> *#40299*
>
> *Adelaide, South Australia*
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> See what's on at the movies in your area. Find out now
> <http://au.rd.yahoo.com/movies/mailtagline/*http://au.movies.yahoo.com/session-times/>.
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: G3i Ignition |
Hmmm, color me skeptical.
Here's why. The vast majority of auto applications for 6 and 8 cyl
engines with automatic transmissions operate between 1500 and 3000 rpm
90 percent of the time, not much different than aircraft (unless you are
a real leadfoot). Their ignition systems are also optimized for peak
torque in that same range with advanced timing. Now electronic, used to
be mechanical and vacuum advance. Aircraft didn't incorporate mechanical
or vacuum advance mechanisms because the manufacturers wanted to avoid
additional potential points of failure, not because it wouldn't add
power and efficiency. Efficiency wasn't a goal when the majority of
engines were certified. Oh, and Unison DID show power and efficiency
gains at normal altitudes and cruise power settings by advancing the timing.
As for #3, I'd love to see some independent test data on the claimed
power increases and fuel economy. Testimonials are a dime a dozen and
worth less than said dime. Just been working long enough on auto and
aircraft engines to have seen just about every fuel and ignition system
marketed in the last 40 years. Can count on 1 hand the products that
actually delivered even 50% of your claimed improvement.
KM
A&P/IA
EAA Tech Counselor
sc_acro2 wrote:
>
> OK guys, you left me out on this topic.
Heres why, the engines RPM operating is very small window 2100 -
2700, not like in an automobile 700 5000 rpm. When there is a small
RPM operating range optimal performance and economy can be obtained with
fixed timing. There is not much to gain by driving the timing all over
the place. Are there benefits to advancing the timing on a SINGLE spark
system? Only at low power settings (60% or less) and higher than
12,500ft. This is a quote from Unison/ Lasar. With the understanding
flame propagation heres why. X amount of air fuel mixture goes into
the cylinder creates X amount of btu. When flame travel is slow you need
to ramp up the ignition timing on a SINGLE spark system to get that
complete burn @ peak cylinder pressure. Now with a non advancing
MULTABLE spark discharge system with same amount of fuel, same amount of
btus created, however this done in a shorte!
> r window of time from the multiple spark ignition of the air fuel mixture to
get that complete burn. Just happens quicker. As far as air fuel mixture in aircraft
engine, it is very poor atomization so multiple spark discharge just does
a better job then a single spark system.
> 3) Field tested and testimonials show that fuel economy is improved 8 to 14%
and static dyno pulls have shown an average 2 5% in power gains with stock timing
configurations.
> There are many more benefits that the G3i system offers and we are always open
to any discussion or questions pertaining to aircraft ignition systems or engine
management peripherals.
> Thanks for all your interest in the G3i system
>
> Thomas Shpakow
> www.g3ignition.com
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277572#277572
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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