Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:55 AM - Re: com wiring (n801bh@netzero.com)
2. 06:57 AM - Re: Transponder Question (cloudvalley@comcast.net)
3. 07:31 AM - Re: com wiring (Jerry Hansen)
4. 08:04 AM - Re: com wiring (Pascal)
5. 08:43 AM - FWF hoses (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
6. 08:51 AM - Re: FWF hoses (Bob and Karen Brown)
7. 09:12 AM - Re: FWF hoses (Linn Walters)
8. 09:41 AM - Re: FWF hoses (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
9. 09:51 AM - Re: FWF hoses (DLM)
10. 10:07 AM - Re: FWF hoses (Perry, Phil)
11. 10:07 AM - Re: Engine mount ears (efdsteve@aol.com)
12. 10:28 AM - Re: Precision Gasket (Jae Chang)
13. 10:49 AM - Re: Precision Gasket (Rob Kermanj)
14. 10:51 AM - 90 degree drills (Perry, Phil)
15. 11:01 AM - Re: 90 degree drills (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
16. 11:05 AM - Re: Precision Gasket (jchang10)
17. 11:20 AM - Re: 90 degree drills (Robin Marks)
18. 11:24 AM - Re: 90 degree drills (Perry, Phil)
19. 11:34 AM - Re: Transponder Question (Tim Olson)
20. 11:36 AM - Re: FWF hoses (Eric_Kallio)
21. 12:01 PM - Fire bottle (DLM)
22. 01:08 PM - Re: FWF hoses (Kelly McMullen)
23. 01:29 PM - Rudder Pedal Movement (Les Kearney)
24. 01:40 PM - Re: 90 degree drills (Neal George)
25. 01:58 PM - Re: Transponder Question (lbgjb10)
26. 02:12 PM - Re: 90 degree drills (Seano)
27. 02:39 PM - Re: Re: Transponder Question (Tim Olson)
28. 02:52 PM - Re: FWF hoses (ricksked@cox.net)
29. 03:31 PM - Re: 90 degree drills (John Cox)
30. 03:32 PM - Re: Warming up in the -10 (Ron B.)
31. 03:54 PM - Re: Re: Transponder Question (Robin Marks)
32. 04:13 PM - Re: Re: Transponder Question (Tim Olson)
33. 04:49 PM - Re: Rudder Pedal Movement (jkreidler)
34. 05:00 PM - Re: com wiring (Bob Turner)
35. 05:08 PM - Re: Re: Rudder Pedal Movement (Les Kearney)
36. 05:18 PM - Re: Re: Transponder Question (DLM)
37. 05:19 PM - FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal (AirMike)
38. 05:26 PM - Re: Total Age (AirMike)
39. 05:30 PM - Re: Re: Transponder Question (Pascal)
40. 05:33 PM - additional latch for 10 doors (Roxanne and Mike Lefever)
41. 05:43 PM - Re: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal (Jesse Saint)
42. 05:43 PM - Re: Re: Total Age (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
43. 05:45 PM - Re: Re: Transponder Question (Jesse Saint)
44. 05:46 PM - Re: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal (ricksked@cox.net)
45. 05:50 PM - FW: Z-14 Switch Combos (Perry, Phil)
46. 05:50 PM - Re: additional latch for 10 doors (ricksked@cox.net)
47. 05:52 PM - Re: Re: Rudder Pedal Movement (ricksked@cox.net)
48. 05:58 PM - Re: Transponder Question (cloudvalley@comcast.net)
49. 06:08 PM - Re: Re: Total Age (Don McDonald)
50. 06:09 PM - Re: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal (Carl Froehlich)
51. 06:11 PM - Re: Re: Total Age (Don McDonald)
52. 06:11 PM - Re: FW: Z-14 Switch Combos (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
53. 06:12 PM - Re: additional latch for 10 doors (Perry, Phil)
54. 06:20 PM - Re: Transponder Question (cloudvalley@comcast.net)
55. 06:30 PM - Re: additional latch for 10 doors (Miller John)
56. 06:32 PM - Re: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal (Tim Olson)
57. 06:32 PM - Re: FW: Z-14 Switch Combos (Perry, Phil)
58. 06:35 PM - Re: Re: Transponder Question (Tim Olson)
59. 06:40 PM - Re: additional latch for 10 doors (Roxanne and Mike Lefever)
60. 06:58 PM - Re: 90 degree drills (William Curtis)
61. 07:01 PM - Re: additional latch for 10 doors (Seano)
62. 07:15 PM - Re: 90 degree drills (Tim Olson)
63. 07:20 PM - Re: additional latch for 10 doors (Tim Olson)
64. 09:24 PM - Re: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal (Dave Saylor)
65. 09:55 PM - Re: additional latch for 10 doors (Robin Marks)
Message 1
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For what it's worth...
I have and installed a PS 1000ii intercom in my experiemental. It works
great and is a good deal for the money. The dark side is this.. PS engin
eering will try to guilt you into buying a "premade" harness. either fro
m them or their dealer network. They will tell you quite bluntly that if
you don't you have NO warranty if you don't play their game. Kinda piss
poor business model in my mind... Wiring the intercom up is not a real
big deal and if you follow their , 'in my mind' rather complete and good
wiring directions your product will work as advertised. They sell a goo
d product at a good price and supplement their profit margin alot by thi
s tactic.. is it bait and switch? naw. Is it a creative way to get gre
edy ? NO DOUBT. !!!!
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "partner14" <building_partner@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV10-List: com wiring
>
I had a couple of issues with the wiring of my PS1000 intercom. After w
iring the whole thing myself, and then seeing, at Osh, the great job tha
t they do, I went ahead and ordered their harness. Now I need to pull m
ost of my wiring out and install theirs. Without creating noise and/or
other issues, is it possible to create a proper junction between their w
ires and mine.... specifically the wires going to both rear passengers (
mic and headset).
Thanks guys.
Don McDonald
Anyone flown with an SR22 to do a 10 vs. 22 comparison?
I may tomorrow.
Whose got the record for climb rate? With 2 on board last week we saw 2
140fpm
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279847#279847
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
Hi TIme,
=C2-My wife, Ruth and I were RV10 builders but sold our empennage a littl
e over a year ago, after getting your axle kit. We had to regroup because o
ur farm here isn't selling yet, but it is a money- maker and we are sure it
will. We may get a moslty done RV-10 when we sell.We see lots of RV ers wh
en we fly the 79 Tiger we bought up to Independence for lunch all the time,
from Eugene, Oregon.
=C2-We bought this low-time Tiger last year and put in a 430 WAAS and a G
MX200.( Also bought a 696 which we love)=C2-This year we had a GTX330 ins
talled, along with a PMA700 audio panel=C2-when our transponder went out
near Gorman in Calif. We love it. At least it shows the traffic vectors for
aircraft in the vicinity of busy airspace, and it can be upgraded later...
hopefully by someone who buys our Tiger after the farm sells, so we can upg
rade our plane. We want to fly all=C2- ver when we move to Ohio near wife
's brother. We keep reading=C2-about all your flying =C2-adventures, an
d are jealous. As long as we have this farm we have to work in the summer,s
elling produce at the Farmers' market, and ony have time for short trips. O
h well..patience..
Talk to you later Tim, and thanks for all your input.
Brian and Ruth
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2010 8:02:40 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Question
I wouldn't say that a 330 locks you into anything, really.
It is about the best way to get Mode-S TIS right now, but
you don't get the ES part unless you buy the ES upgrade
for something like $1200. =C2-So in actuality, it would give
you the flexibility to go ES as your "OUT" for ADS-B if
you needed to, although for not much more money you could
go with a UAT and feed the Wx data to an onboard device.
You're right, for now you could get a low-end Mode C
transponder and save some money, but if you go with a 330
you'll have TIS right now, and, the transponder won't be
obsoleted by the ADS-B stuff coming forward. =C2-I know Mode
S is "going away", but the timeframes are still a ways
out there....and look at how VOR's, LORAN, and things like
that were also supposed to be "going away". =C2-So really, what
it comes down to is, if you're really trying to save every
dollar you can, and you don't have any care for Mode S TIS,
then go ahead and just buy a 327 or something. =C2-But, if you
buy a 330, you can get Mode S TIS today, and that same box
will work fine for you going forward, whether you choose
a UAT or go the ES route. =C2-What I don't have a clue about
is if the 327 is going to have any upgrade path to ES...and
if it doesn't, it may be safer to just go the 330 route.
The added cost isn't in extreme dollars.
Also, just today I was watching Mode S TIS targets in the MSP
area coming through the NavWorx ADS600 ADS-B receiver....it
can take GTX330 Mode S Targets and output them to your device,
along with outputting TIS-B targets. =C2-So with something like
that, it gives some benefit to having either system. =C2-The one
thing better would be active traffic, but to really get a
good system that gives bearing, range, and altitude to
"intruders", you're going to spend maybe 5X or 6X the price,
and have to do some real good top and bottom fin antennas.
Tim
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Keep in mind that a 330 locks you into the 1090ES standard for ADSB,
> while it looks like UAT will continue to be a more flexible and robust
> system. If you want to keep options open, buy a low end Mode A/C
> transponder for now. BTW, there is no such thing as IFR transponder.
> They all have to meet a single TSO to be legal to use in aircraft. As
> long as you avoid certain airspace, it is still legal to fly IFR with no
> transponder. Might get some ATC complaints, however.
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> Robin, the 330 is the only one that does Mode-S tis, and
>> therefore would be the only one that you could use with
>> NavWorx Composite-TIS function. =C2-If you buy a cheaper
>> one without Mode-S, you'll only get ADS-B targets.
>> With the 330, you can get either, via their box...assuming
>> the G900 uses the same standard interface they use
>> for other things.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>> Robin Marks wrote:
>>> I am laying out my =9CBudget=9D RV-8A panel and have a tran
sponder
>>> question. And yes I know this is the -10 list but I think I still
>>> have privileges here.
>>>
>>> I =C2-am unclear what is the lowest priced Garmin Transponder that wi
ll
>>> ultimately work with ADS-B and other traffic warning systems.
>>>
>>> I understand that the GTX-330 is their top of the line and is IFR
>>> certified but will the GTX-237 work with things like Navworx and TIS?
>>> It does not appear to be the case.
>>>
>>> =C2-
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Robin
>>>
>>> =C2-
>>>
>>> Phase 1 of Panel design (~$30K):
>>>
>>> 8A Panel 1 Concept.jpg
>>>
>>> Concept 1.5.jpg
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
Message 3
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The other side of this "creative greed" is the fact that most initial
failures of such products are caused by miswiring. These errors result in
the company devoting technical resources to multiple phone calls from the
frustrated customer (who is convinced there is no error), repairing the
product when ultimately returned (which likely had a power wire connected to
a data input, etc.), paying to ship it back, emphasizing that the wiring in
the aircraft is incorrect, - only to get another phone call that it "blew
up" when plugged in (because of still-incorrect wiring). All of this is
greatly irritating to the customer, and very costly to the manufacturer.
It is unusual to see a manufacturer void the warranty if the customer wires
the system, but you can see their point.
Jerry Hansen
(not affiliated with the company, but feeling their pain)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
n801bh@netzero.com
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 1:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: com wiring
For what it's worth...
I have and installed a PS 1000ii intercom in my experiemental. It works
great and is a good deal for the money. The dark side is this.. PS
engineering will try to guilt you into buying a "premade" harness. either
from them or their dealer network. They will tell you quite bluntly that if
you don't you have NO warranty if you don't play their game. Kinda piss poor
business model in my mind... Wiring the intercom up is not a real big deal
and if you follow their , 'in my mind' rather complete and good wiring
directions your product will work as advertised. They sell a good product at
a good price and supplement their profit margin alot by this tactic.. is it
bait and switch? naw. Is it a creative way to get greedy ? NO DOUBT.
!!!!
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "partner14" <building_partner@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV10-List: com wiring
I had a couple of issues with the wiring of my PS1000 intercom. After
wiring the whole thing myself, and then seeing, at Osh, the great job that
they do, I went ahead and ordered their harness. Now I need to pull most of
my wiring out and install theirs. Without creating noise and/or other
issues, is it possible to create a proper junction between their wires and
mine.... specifically the wires going to both rear passengers (mic and
headset).
Thanks guys.
Don McDonald
Anyone flown with an SR22 to do a 10 vs. 22 comparison?
I may tomorrow.
Whose got the record for climb rate? With 2 on board last week we saw
2140fpm
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279847#279847
<========================; - The RV10-List Email Forum
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E315TiJGQRTntSFamdGWtMAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARwAAAAA=>
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Message 4
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sounds like Garmin!
From: n801bh@netzero.com
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 1:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: com wiring
For what it's worth...
I have and installed a PS 1000ii intercom in my experiemental. It works
great and is a good deal for the money. The dark side is this.. PS
engineering will try to guilt you into buying a "premade" harness.
either from them or their dealer network. They will tell you quite
bluntly that if you don't you have NO warranty if you don't play their
game. Kinda piss poor business model in my mind... Wiring the intercom
up is not a real big deal and if you follow their , 'in my mind' rather
complete and good wiring directions your product will work as
advertised. They sell a good product at a good price and supplement
their profit margin alot by this tactic.. is it bait and switch? naw.
Is it a creative way to get greedy ? NO DOUBT. !!!!
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "partner14" <building_partner@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV10-List: com wiring
<building_partner@yahoo.com>
I had a couple of issues with the wiring of my PS1000 intercom. After
wiring the whole thing myself, and then seeing, at Osh, the great job
that they do, I went ahead and ordered their harness. Now I need to
pull most of my wiring out and install theirs. Without creating noise
and/or other issues, is it possible to create a proper junction between
their wires and mine.... specifically the wires going to both rear
passengers (mic and headset).
Thanks guys.
Don McDonald
Anyone flown with an SR22 to do a 10 vs. 22 comparison?
I may tomorrow.
Whose got the record for climb rate? With 2 on board last week we saw
2140fpm
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279847#279847
<========================
; - The RV10-List Email Forum
-========================
======================
==================
____________________________________________________________
Love Spell
Click here to light up your life with a love spell!
Message 5
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Happy New Year everyone!
I'm getting ready to order the hoses for my FWF. I didn't get the stock
Van's hoses because at the time (they have come down considerably in the la
st 2 years) they were more expensive than aftermarket and I also have a dif
ferent configuration which requires a few custom lengths. So what I'm wond
ering is if I should firesleeve the oil lines while I'm at it. They will a
ll be SS sleeved with a Teflon core. It's certainly more than if I don't b
ut I'm thinking it would probably be worth it. What's the general concensu
s?
Michael
Message 6
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Steel fittings and integral firesleeve hoses on all fuel and oil lines FWF,
that's what I'd recommend.
Bob Brown
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 8:43 AM
Subject: RV10-List: FWF hoses
Happy New Year everyone!
I'm getting ready to order the hoses for my FWF. I didn't get the stock
Van's hoses because at the time (they have come down considerably in the
last 2 years) they were more expensive than aftermarket and I also have a
different configuration which requires a few custom lengths. So what I'm
wondering is if I should firesleeve the oil lines while I'm at it. They
will all be SS sleeved with a Teflon core. It's certainly more than if I
don't but I'm thinking it would probably be worth it. What's the general
concensus?
Michael
Message 7
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FWIW, I ordered my FWF kit which should ship in a few weeks. I ordered
the Vans hoses .... but haven't decided to firesleeve yet. Probably
won't for oil, but might for fuel. My other aircraft have old black
cloth covered Aeroquip hoses and surived OK all these years ..... but I
haven't had a fire in the cowl yet. I'd rather practice prevention than
pray that a hose containing flammable stuff doesn't burn through.
Linn ....... wiring the panel
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> Happy New Year everyone!
>
>
>
> I'm getting ready to order the hoses for my FWF. I didn't get the
> stock Van's hoses because at the time (they have come down
> considerably in the last 2 years) they were more expensive than
> aftermarket and I also have a different configuration which requires a
> few custom lengths. So what I'm wondering is if I should firesleeve
> the oil lines while I'm at it. They will all be SS sleeved with a
> Teflon core. It's certainly more than if I don't but I'm thinking it
> would probably be worth it. What's the general concensus?
>
>
>
> Michael
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 8
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Van's now sends the fuel supply hoses with integral firesleeves so you are
already good there.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FWF hoses
FWIW, I ordered my FWF kit which should ship in a few weeks. I ordered the
Vans hoses .... but haven't decided to firesleeve yet. Probably won't for
oil, but might for fuel. My other aircraft have old black cloth covered A
eroquip hoses and surived OK all these years ..... but I haven't had a fire
in the cowl yet. I'd rather practice prevention than pray that a hose con
taining flammable stuff doesn't burn through.
Linn ....... wiring the panel
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
Happy New Year everyone!
I'm getting ready to order the hoses for my FWF. I didn't get the stock
Van's hoses because at the time (they have come down considerably in the la
st 2 years) they were more expensive than aftermarket and I also have a dif
ferent configuration which requires a few custom lengths. So what I'm wond
ering is if I should firesleeve the oil lines while I'm at it. They will a
ll be SS sleeved with a Teflon core. It's certainly more than if I don't b
ut I'm thinking it would probably be worth it. What's the general concensu
s?
Michael
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution
Message 9
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builders who are considering the possibility of fire under the cowl should
consider a fire bottle. Stroud in OKC sells them and relatively easy to
install.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FWF hoses
FWIW, I ordered my FWF kit which should ship in a few weeks. I ordered the
Vans hoses .... but haven't decided to firesleeve yet. Probably won't for
oil, but might for fuel. My other aircraft have old black cloth covered
Aeroquip hoses and surived OK all these years ..... but I haven't had a fire
in the cowl yet. I'd rather practice prevention than pray that a hose
containing flammable stuff doesn't burn through.
Linn ....... wiring the panel
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
Happy New Year everyone!
I'm getting ready to order the hoses for my FWF. I didn't get the stock
Van's hoses because at the time (they have come down considerably in the
last 2 years) they were more expensive than aftermarket and I also have a
different configuration which requires a few custom lengths. So what I'm
wondering is if I should firesleeve the oil lines while I'm at it. They
will all be SS sleeved with a Teflon core. It's certainly more than if I
don't but I'm thinking it would probably be worth it. What's the general
concensus?
Michael
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
Message 10
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Hey David,
I was looking at yours at OSH...
Do you have any FWF photos? Where does it spray to?
Phil
From: DLM [mailto:dlm46007@cox.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 11:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FWF hoses
builders who are considering the possibility of fire under the cowl
should consider a fire bottle. Stroud in OKC sells them and relatively
easy to install.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FWF hoses
FWIW, I ordered my FWF kit which should ship in a few weeks. I ordered
the Vans hoses .... but haven't decided to firesleeve yet. Probably
won't for oil, but might for fuel. My other aircraft have old black
cloth covered Aeroquip hoses and surived OK all these years ..... but I
haven't had a fire in the cowl yet. I'd rather practice prevention than
pray that a hose containing flammable stuff doesn't burn through.
Linn ....... wiring the panel
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
Happy New Year everyone!
I'm getting ready to order the hoses for my FWF. I didn't get the
stock Van's hoses because at the time (they have come down considerably
in the last 2 years) they were more expensive than aftermarket and I
also have a different configuration which requires a few custom lengths.
So what I'm wondering is if I should firesleeve the oil lines while I'm
at it. They will all be SS sleeved with a Teflon core. It's certainly
more than if I don't but I'm thinking it would probably be worth it.
What's the general concensus?
Michael
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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ntribution
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount ears |
The order is engine bracket, plain 3/8" washer, 3/8" internal teeth lock
washer, 3/8-24 plain nut. I didn't see a special torque value listed, so
the standard of 30 foot pounds should apply.
Steve Weinstock
40230
Schaumburg, IL
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Leikam <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
Sent: Tue, Dec 29, 2009 12:33 am
Subject: RV10-List: Engine mount ears
I am having trouble finding specific information on attaching the mounting
ears to my Van's supplied IO-540. I know this is a simple procedure, but
I am looking for specific washer stacking order and torque values for the
nuts along with any other pertinent info.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
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Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Precision Gasket |
I guess I am still missing something. Why would this oil filter gasket
come with a fuel injector body? Seems unrelated to each other.
jae
Sohrab Kermanj wrote:
>
> It goes between the oil filter housing and the engine, I think.
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Precision Gasket |
Could they have made a mistake?
Do not archive.
On Jan 3, 2010, at 1:27 PM, Jae Chang wrote:
>
> I guess I am still missing something. Why would this oil filter gasket come with
a fuel injector body? Seems unrelated to each other.
>
> jae
>
> Sohrab Kermanj wrote:
>>
>> It goes between the oil filter housing and the engine, I think.
>>
>> Do not archive
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | 90 degree drills |
On the topic of tools..............................
Anyone have a 90 degree drill that they're absolutely in love with?
The Sioux is $445.
I see some imports (Taylor) for $250ish.
Then some others for $200.
Anyone have any special feelings for their drill? (Easy Mr. Sked) J
Phil
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: 90 degree drills |
I don't have a full 90 degree drill. Used this successfully so far:
http://www.averytools.com/pc-551-26-right-angle-drill-attachment.aspx
Perry, Phil wrote:
>
> On the topic of tools
>
> Anyone have a 90 degree drill that theyre absolutely in love with?
>
> The Sioux is $445.
>
> I see some imports (Taylor) for $250ish.
>
> Then some others for $200.
>
> Anyone have any special feelings for their drill? (Easy Mr. Sked) J
>
> Phil
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Precision Gasket |
I thought the box it came in had Precision Airmotive labelling but actually it
is labelled Lycoming. Thus, it seems the answer is that it is indeed unrelated.
It's just all the gaskets in one envelope for the engine.
I guess I needed more practice assembling things without reading the instructions,
as i have done in the past. Who knew assembling Ikea furniture by first throwing
out those instructions is good practice for assembling lycoming engines!
;)
Jae
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279904#279904
Message 17
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| Subject: | 90 degree drills |
eBay...
Nearly every combination & style imaginable.
Robin
Message 18
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| Subject: | 90 degree drills |
Yeah, that's what I've been using. But I've finally stripped the gears
in it.
I'm going to go ahead and send it to Bob for repair, but I think I'm
going to get a real drill for daily use and keep the adaptor as a
backup.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson [mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 90 degree drills
<MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
I don't have a full 90 degree drill. Used this successfully so far:
http://www.averytools.com/pc-551-26-right-angle-drill-attachment.aspx
Perry, Phil wrote:
>
> On the topic of tools..............................
>
> Anyone have a 90 degree drill that they're absolutely in love with?
>
> The Sioux is $445.
>
> I see some imports (Taylor) for $250ish.
>
> Then some others for $200.
>
> Anyone have any special feelings for their drill? (Easy Mr. Sked) J
>
> Phil
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
Yeah, I was wondering how that Tiger was treating you. Do you know
how they are on grass? I'm looking for a time builder for Andrea now
that she's got her certificate, and I was thinking RV7A/9A, but maybe
a Tiger wouldn't be so bad if it can handle grass.
Well, hope you have good luck selling the farm eventually!
Tim
cloudvalley@comcast.net wrote:
> Hi TIme,
>
> My wife, Ruth and I were RV10 builders but sold our empennage a little
> over a year ago, after getting your axle kit. We had to regroup because
> our farm here isn't selling yet, but it is a money- maker and we are
> sure it will. We may get a moslty done RV-10 when we sell.We see lots of
> RV ers when we fly the 79 Tiger we bought up to Independence for lunch
> all the time, from Eugene, Oregon.
>
>
>
> We bought this low-time Tiger last year and put in a 430 WAAS and a
> GMX200.( Also bought a 696 which we love) This year we had a GTX330
> installed, along with a PMA700 audio panel when our transponder went out
> near Gorman in Calif. We love it. At least it shows the traffic vectors
> for aircraft in the vicinity of busy airspace, and it can be upgraded
> later...hopefully by someone who buys our Tiger after the farm sells, so
> we can upgrade our plane. We want to fly all ver when we move to Ohio
> near wife's brother. We keep reading about all your flying adventures,
> and are jealous. As long as we have this farm we have to work in the
> summer,selling produce at the Farmers' market, and ony have time for
> short trips. Oh well..patience..
>
> Talk to you later Tim, and thanks for all your input.
>
> Brian and Ruth
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2010 8:02:40 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Question
>
>
> I wouldn't say that a 330 locks you into anything, really.
> It is about the best way to get Mode-S TIS right now, but
> you don't get the ES part unless you buy the ES upgrade
> for something like $1200. So in actuality, it would give
> you the flexibility to go ES as your "OUT" for ADS-B if
> you needed to, although for not much more money you could
> go with a UAT and feed the Wx data to an onboard device.
>
> You're right, for now you could get a low-end Mode C
> transponder and save some money, but if you go with a 330
> you'll have TIS right now, and, the transponder won't be
> obsoleted by the ADS-B stuff coming forward. I know Mode
> S is "going away", but the timeframes are still a ways
> out there....and look at how VOR's, LORAN, and things like
> that were also supposed to be "going away". So really, what
> it comes down to is, if you're really trying to save every
> dollar you can, and you don't have any care for Mode S TIS,
> then go ahead and just buy a 327 or something. But, if you
> buy a 330, you can get Mode S TIS today, and that same box
> will work fine for you going forward, whether you choose
> a UAT or go the ES route. What I don't have a clue about
> is if the 327 is going to have any upgrade path to ES...and
> if it doesn't, it may be safer to just go the 330 route.
> The added cost isn't in extreme dollars.
>
> Also, just today I was watching Mode S TIS targets in the MSP
> area coming through the NavWorx ADS600 ADS-B receiver....it
> can take GTX330 Mode S Targets and output them to your device,
> along with outputting TIS-B targets. So with something like
> that, it gives some benefit to having either system. The one
> thing better would be active traffic, but to really get a
> good system that gives bearing, range, and altitude to
> "intruders", you're going to spend maybe 5X or 6X the price,
> and have to do some real good top and bottom fin antennas.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
> >
> > Keep in mind that a 330 locks you into the 1090ES standard for ADSB,
> > while it looks like UAT will continue to be a more flexible and robust
> > system. If you want to keep options open, buy a low end Mode A/C
> > transponder for now. BTW, there is no such thing as IFR transponder.
> > They all have to meet a single TSO to be legal to use in aircraft. As
> > long as you avoid certain airspace, it is still legal to fly IFR with no
> > transponder. Might get some ATC complaints, however.
> >
> > Tim Olson wrote:
> >>
> >> Robin, the 330 is the only one that does Mode-S tis, and
> >> therefore would be the only one that you could use with
> >> NavWorx Composite-TIS function. If you buy a cheaper
> >> one without Mode-S, you'll only get ADS-B targets.
> >> With the 330, you can get either, via their box...assuming
> >> the G900 uses the same standard interface they use
> >> for other things.
> >>
> >> Tim
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Robin Marks wrote:
> >>> I am laying out my Budget RV-8A panel and have a transponder
> >>> question. And yes I know this is the -10 list but I think I still
> >>> have privileges here.
> >>>
> >>> I am unclear what is the lowest priced Garmin Transponder that will
> >>> ultimately work with ADS-B and other traffic warning systems.
> >>>
> >>> I understand that the GTX-330 is their top of the line and is IFR
> >>> certified but will the GTX-237 work with things like Navworx and TIS?
> >>> It does not appear to be the case.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>> Robin
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Phase 1 of Panel design (~$30K):
> >>>
> >>> 8A Panel 1 Concept.jpg
> >>>
> >>> Concept 1.5.jpg
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 20
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Between the hoses that Vans now provides in the FWF kit, and the hoses that Aerosport
Power sent with my engine, the Manifold pressure line and the line to the
oil pressure sender are the only ones not firesleeved. While the MP line doesn't
need it, the oil pressure sender line may get firesleeved down the road
when I replace lines, but at this point I am leaving it as is. ALL fuel and oil
cooler hoses are fire sleeved.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279912#279912
Message 21
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One picture shows the location in the cabin, the other shows the location on
the firewall. Note the blue fitting between the red/yellow/white wire bundle
(EGT/CHT wiring). That is the bulkhead T fitting through the firewall. From
there hard flared lines use the sprayers provided in the kit to spray Halon
behind the aft cylinder baffling; one hard line is routed through the aft
baffling and sprays over the engine. Because my engine is not carbureted, I
do not plumb a line to the carburetor box. On my Glastar, one lines sprays
the top of the engine and one line is plumbed to a bulkhead fitting in the
carburetor air box. That fitting inside the box is capped and a #40 hole has
been drilled in the cap.
If you install a carbureted engine I recommend a pinhole plumbed
inside the carburetor box. This eliminates most damage done by carburetor
fires. Halon leaves no residue and requires no clean up.
How do you know if you have a carburetor fire? My Glastar has a Carburetor
air temperature sensor and displays on the panel. For fuel injected engines
a fire will produce smoke and engine instrument chts/egts will become
rapidly erratic. Discharging the bottle, expect to be a glider and prepare
to land immediately.
I could send some pictures of the FF installation, perhaps next week when I
remove the top cowl.
Of course, being prepared, in the Glastar (500+) and RV10 (200+) I have not
had the requirement to push the red fire handle. Of course in 3000 other
hours in certified aircraft I have had no requirement to wish I had a fire
handle.
Message 22
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Just had a friend's Cozy light off an engine fire on start this
morning. He wishes he had more fire sleeving. He was lucky fire got
put out before spreading to fiberglass. Was basically from flooded
start.
For the extra 15% I think the integral firesleeve teflon hoses are
worth it. I have them on my Mooney and will use on RV-10.
On Sun, Jan 3, 2010 at 10:12 AM, Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> FWIW, I ordered my FWF kit which should ship in a few weeks. I ordered the
> Vans hoses .... but haven't decided to firesleeve yet. Probably won't for
> oil, but might for fuel. My other aircraft have old black cloth covered
> Aeroquip hoses and surived OK all these years ..... but I haven't had a fire
> in the cowl yet. I'd rather practice prevention than pray that a hose
> containing flammable stuff doesn't burn through.
> Linn ....... wiring the panel
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> Happy New Year everyone!
>
>
> Im getting ready to order the hoses for my FWF. I didnt get the stock
> Vans hoses because at the time (they have come down considerably in the
> last 2 years) they were more expensive than aftermarket and I also have a
> different configuration which requires a few custom lengths. So what Im
> wondering is if I should firesleeve the oil lines while Im at it. They
> will all be SS sleeved with a Teflon core. Its certainly more than if I
> dont but Im thinking it would probably be worth it. Whats the general
> concensus?
>
>
> Michael
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Movement |
Happy New Year to all the builders out there!
I have a quick question for those who have gone before...
What is the movement distance for the rudder cables (i.e. from full forward
to full aft) as measured from the rudder pedal attach point?
Many thanks
Les
#40643
Message 24
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| Subject: | 90 degree drills |
Phil -
I have a 500rpm APT that I love. Bought it used from The Yard.
Also have a 2500rpm UAT that I hate - too much starting torque.
I have a strong preference for the slower drills - much more control...
neal
===========
On the topic of tools..........
Anyone have a 90 degree drill that they're absolutely in love with?
The Sioux is $445.
I see some imports (Taylor) for $250ish.
Then some others for $200.
Anyone have any special feelings for their drill? (Easy Mr. Sked) J
Phil
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
didn't realize that 330 worked with ADS-B, thought it was only S mode. Does my
18 month old 330 have that capacity?? does it need different antenna?? upgrade??
larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279930#279930
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: 90 degree drills |
Love this one of mine.
http://store-planetools.com/angledrill--2800rpmfor14-28threadedbits.aspx
----- Original Message -----
From: Perry, Phil
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 11:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 90 degree drills
On the topic of tools..........
Anyone have a 90 degree drill that they're absolutely in love with?
The Sioux is $445.
I see some imports (Taylor) for $250ish.
Then some others for $200.
Anyone have any special feelings for their drill? (Easy Mr. Sked) J
Phil
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
It doesn't.....but Navworx can receive via arinc from the 330 and mix
that mode s with their ads-b to send to your display, depending on
your avionics choices and configuration.
Tim
On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, "lbgjb10" <lbgjb@gnt.net> wrote:
>
> didn't realize that 330 worked with ADS-B, thought it was only S
> mode. Does my 18 month old 330 have that capacity?? does it need
> different antenna?? upgrade?? larry
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279930#279930
>
>
Message 28
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I agree they are compact and worth the cost to fabricate to the correct length
let alone safer...flame away!!
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FWF hoses
Just had a friend's Cozy light off an engine fire on start this
morning. He wishes he had more fire sleeving. He was lucky fire got
put out before spreading to fiberglass. Was basically from flooded
start.
For the extra 15% I think the integral firesleeve teflon hoses are
worth it. I have them on my Mooney and will use on RV-10.
On Sun, Jan 3, 2010 at 10:12 AM, Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> FWIW, I ordered my FWF kit which should ship in a few weeks. I ordered the
> Vans hoses .... but haven't decided to firesleeve yet. Probably won't for
> oil, but might for fuel. My other aircraft have old black cloth covered
> Aeroquip hoses and surived OK all these years ..... but I haven't had a fire
> in the cowl yet. I'd rather practice prevention than pray that a hose
> containing flammable stuff doesn't burn through.
> Linn ....... wiring the panel
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> Happy New Year everyone!
>
>
> Im getting ready to order the hoses for my FWF. I didnt get the stock
> Vans hoses because at the time (they have come down considerably in the
> last 2 years) they were more expensive than aftermarket and I also have a
> different configuration which requires a few custom lengths. So what Im
> wondering is if I should firesleeve the oil lines while Im at it. They
> will all be SS sleeved with a Teflon core. Its certainly more than if I
> dont but Im thinking it would probably be worth it. Whats the general
> concensus?
>
>
> Michael
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | 90 degree drills |
Teaser triggers can give you the best of both. I passed on a 90 and 45
with either at $250. I still regret the day that I passed. Couldn't
justify more for the RV-10 build.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Neal George
Sent: Sun 1/3/2010 1:39 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 90 degree drills
Phil -
I have a 500rpm APT that I love. Bought it used from The Yard.
Also have a 2500rpm UAT that I hate - too much starting torque.
I have a strong preference for the slower drills - much more control...
neal
===========
On the topic of tools..............................
Anyone have a 90 degree drill that they're absolutely in love with?
The Sioux is $445.
I see some imports (Taylor) for $250ish.
Then some others for $200.
Anyone have any special feelings for their drill? (Easy Mr. Sked) J
Phil
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Warming up in the -10 |
I can't believe you let your 10 get that cold?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279944#279944
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
I think you do need an additional antenna 4' away from the Transponder
antenna. About $110.00 from Navworx. I forgot what type of antenna but
it's a common aviation antenna. I plan the add the Navworx to two ships
so I will figure it out sooner or later (most likely later).
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Transponder Question
It doesn't.....but Navworx can receive via arinc from the 330 and mix
that mode s with their ads-b to send to your display, depending on
your avionics choices and configuration.
Tim
On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, "lbgjb10" <lbgjb@gnt.net> wrote:
>
> didn't realize that 330 worked with ADS-B, thought it was only S
> mode. Does my 18 month old 330 have that capacity?? does it need
> different antenna?? upgrade?? larry
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279930#279930
>
>
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01/02/10 08:22:00
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
It's just a normal shark-fin Transponder antenna. One wire. Oh and
you'll add a GPS antenna. On mine I put the GPS antenna under the
vertical stab fairing, since I don't consider this as "critical to
navigation". You can feed GPS in to the box from some other source,
but the requirements of that GPS spec are pretty stringent, per ads-b
requirements, so I figured the simple way was to just use the built-in
GPS.
The active traffic systems use like 4 wires for the antenna, or
something like that, and the blade is much larger.
The antenna for Ads-b is smaller and mounts on the belly.
Tim
On Jan 3, 2010, at 5:53 PM, "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com> wrote:
>
> I think you do need an additional antenna 4' away from the Transponder
> antenna. About $110.00 from Navworx. I forgot what type of antenna but
> it's a common aviation antenna. I plan the add the Navworx to two
> ships
> so I will figure it out sooner or later (most likely later).
>
> Robin
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 2:39 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Transponder Question
>
>
> It doesn't.....but Navworx can receive via arinc from the 330 and mix
> that mode s with their ads-b to send to your display, depending on
> your avionics choices and configuration.
> Tim
>
>
> On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, "lbgjb10" <lbgjb@gnt.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> didn't realize that 330 worked with ADS-B, thought it was only S
>> mode. Does my 18 month old 330 have that capacity?? does it need
>> different antenna?? upgrade?? larry
>>
>> --------
>> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279930#279930
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 01/02/10 08:22:00
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Movement |
4.5" comes to mind (IIRC)
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279955#279955
Message 34
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To answer your direct question:
Yes, you can splice (crimp joint or solder/shrink tubing) the mike and phone wires.
Try to keep the length which is not inside the shield to a minimum. If you
are really anal you can put a braided shield over the splice area (connected
to the cable shield) when you're done, but it shouldn't be necessary.
Here is what is necessary, for the lowest noise: Do not allow the shield to touch
the airframe anywhere except at the audio panel ground connection. This includes
the splice, and the jacks. The jacks should be isolated with non-conducting
washers (Stein sells them), and the "ground" side of the jack brought back
to the audio panel with its own wire, not the braid. Do not connect the braid
to anything at the jack end. This means that you need to have multi-conductor
(2 plus shield, 3 if stereo) installed.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279957#279957
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Movement |
Hi Jason
Many thanks
Les
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jkreidler
Sent: January-03-10 5:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Pedal Movement
--> <jason.kreidler@regalbeloit.com>
4.5" comes to mind (IIRC)
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279955#279955
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
Officially you need 6 ft between your UAT antenna and the Garmin
transponder. 4 ft may work. UAT antenna is a DME antenna.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 4:54 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Transponder Question
I think you do need an additional antenna 4' away from the Transponder
antenna. About $110.00 from Navworx. I forgot what type of antenna but it's
a common aviation antenna. I plan the add the Navworx to two ships so I will
figure it out sooner or later (most likely later).
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Transponder Question
It doesn't.....but Navworx can receive via arinc from the 330 and mix that
mode s with their ads-b to send to your display, depending on your avionics
choices and configuration.
Tim
On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, "lbgjb10" <lbgjb@gnt.net> wrote:
>
> didn't realize that 330 worked with ADS-B, thought it was only S mode.
> Does my 18 month old 330 have that capacity?? does it need different
> antenna?? upgrade?? larry
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279930#279930
>
>
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01/02/10 08:22:00
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal |
It is a real pain to install/remove the cowl with the baffle interface seal on
the FAB. I know at least one RV10 builder who has eliminated the baffle seal material
at the interface. In discussing this problem with another builder, I was
wondering if any builder has come up with a unique solution to this problem
or the technical ramifications of leaving the seal material off.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279960#279960
Message 38
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How do you make an ex-relative?
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279968#279968
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
Tim;
You mention the shark fin transponder, is that a specific requirement or
does any transponder antenna work the same?
Thanks!
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@myrv10.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 4:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Transponder Question
>
> It's just a normal shark-fin Transponder antenna. One wire. Oh and
> you'll add a GPS antenna. On mine I put the GPS antenna under the
> vertical stab fairing, since I don't consider this as "critical to
> navigation". You can feed GPS in to the box from some other source, but
> the requirements of that GPS spec are pretty stringent, per ads-b
> requirements, so I figured the simple way was to just use the built-in
> GPS.
>
> The active traffic systems use like 4 wires for the antenna, or something
> like that, and the blade is much larger.
> The antenna for Ads-b is smaller and mounts on the belly.
> Tim
>
>
> On Jan 3, 2010, at 5:53 PM, "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> I think you do need an additional antenna 4' away from the Transponder
>> antenna. About $110.00 from Navworx. I forgot what type of antenna but
>> it's a common aviation antenna. I plan the add the Navworx to two ships
>> so I will figure it out sooner or later (most likely later).
>>
>> Robin
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 2:39 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Transponder Question
>>
>>
>> It doesn't.....but Navworx can receive via arinc from the 330 and mix
>> that mode s with their ads-b to send to your display, depending on
>> your avionics choices and configuration.
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, "lbgjb10" <lbgjb@gnt.net> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> didn't realize that 330 worked with ADS-B, thought it was only S
>>> mode. Does my 18 month old 330 have that capacity?? does it need
>>> different antenna?? upgrade?? larry
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279930#279930
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> 01/02/10 08:22:00
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | additional latch for 10 doors |
Has anyone added an additional latching mechanism at the bottom of their do
ors. As I am finishing my door latches I am considering adding an '"L" sha
ped catch in the bottom of the door (inserted into the bottom door frame/fu
se) that would move aft (attached to the aft rod) through a slot and provid
e assurance that the door can not move upward=2C both to improve fit and fo
r safety against door opening. Any thoughts on this?
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal |
What some have done is leave a bigger gap and use a thicker seal material to bridge
the gap. The main loss would be a little of the ram air effect on Manifold
Pressure. I've heard this is mainly an issue at altitude.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jan 3, 2010, at 8:18 PM, AirMike wrote:
>
> It is a real pain to install/remove the cowl with the baffle interface seal on
the FAB. I know at least one RV10 builder who has eliminated the baffle seal
material at the interface. In discussing this problem with another builder, I
was wondering if any builder has come up with a unique solution to this problem
or the technical ramifications of leaving the seal material off.
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279960#279960
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 42
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Aviation Induced Divorce Syndrome. ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Total Age
How do you make an ex-relative?
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279968#279968
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
The 330 doesn't provide ADS-B, it just allows the Mode-S information to go to the
ADS-B, and somehow show both on the same display. I don't know the details,
but your 330 can't provide ADS-B.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jan 3, 2010, at 4:57 PM, lbgjb10 wrote:
>
> didn't realize that 330 worked with ADS-B, thought it was only S mode. Does
my 18 month old 330 have that capacity?? does it need different antenna?? upgrade??
larry
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279930#279930
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | Re: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal |
I left mine off and have at the most a gap of 3/16" between the FAB and the snorkel.
I was hoping someone could tell me if it's an issue because the engine runs
fine. I admit that it bothers me that I don't have the seal but I may go with
the Harmon Rocket scoop Don McDonald used....I love that look:!
Rick Sked
N246RS
------Original Message------
From: AirMike
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Jan 3, 2010 5:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal
It is a real pain to install/remove the cowl with the baffle interface seal on
the FAB. I know at least one RV10 builder who has eliminated the baffle seal material
at the interface. In discussing this problem with another builder, I was
wondering if any builder has come up with a unique solution to this problem
or the technical ramifications of leaving the seal material off.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279960#279960
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | FW: Z-14 Switch Combos |
Greetings,
I sent this to the aeroelectric list, but I'm not surprised that it went
unanswered. That being said, THANKS to the RV-10 flyers and builders
for their assistance. One of the great things about this list is the
flyers still stick around!
For those of you who employed Z-14 (Dual Alt/Dual Battery) what have you
experienced with your contactor switch settings? I'd hate to make one
wrong flip of a switch and fry a G430. I know Bob Condrey and Rick are
using this setup. Bill "flying soon" Watson will be using it eventually
too.
Thanks,
Phil
From: Perry, Phil
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 9:09 PM
Subject: Z-14 Switch Combos
I'm getting a handle on Z-14 from an operational perspective and have a
couple of questions about the switch combinations that could create
issues.
Obviously with the added complexity of managing two batteries, two
alternators, and a cross feed can create some interesting combinations.
Are there any combo's that we should be aware of that would create over
voltage or any other scenarios of concern?
In the event of a failure (for example Alt 2 failure), is there a
specific order for shutting off the bad alt and then enabling the cross
feed?
Thanks,
Phil
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: additional latch for 10 doors |
Mike,
There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice cent
er latch, I will need to check my RV photos to see
if I still have them. It was a spring loaded latch wi
th a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone tore it up(sur
prise) because you could not open from the outside in
an emergency
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Has anyone added an additional latching mechanism at the
bottom of their doors. As I am finishing my door lat
ches I am considering adding an '"L" shaped catch in th
e bottom of the door (inserted into the bottom door fra
me/fuse) that would move aft (attached to the aft rod)
through a slot and provide assurance that the door can
not move upward, both to improve fit and for safety aga
inst door opening. Any thoughts on this?
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Movement |
And two foot pounds of pressure to move them....one per pedal!! ):
------Original Message------
From: jkreidler
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Jan 3, 2010 4:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Pedal Movement
4.5" comes to mind (IIRC)
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279955#279955
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
Hi TIm,
=C2-Ruth told me that the Tiger does well on grass. She has landed it on
grass and taxied...does well. She has 2000 hrs, mostly in Tigers (110 hrs i
n an overpriced Cirrus SR20 we had for 6 months).=C2-When we sell (we do
have two interested clients now), I will have to get my certificate before
we sell it. But it will be so great to move on with our lives. Talk to you
later Tim.
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2010 11:33:51 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Question
Yeah, I was wondering how that Tiger was treating you. =C2-Do you know
how they are on grass? =C2-I'm looking for a time builder for Andrea now
that she's got her certificate, and I was thinking RV7A/9A, but maybe
a Tiger wouldn't be so bad if it can handle grass.
Well, hope you have good luck selling the farm eventually!
Tim
cloudvalley@comcast.net wrote:
> Hi TIme,
>
> =C2-My wife, Ruth and I were RV10 builders but sold our empennage a lit
tle
> over a year ago, after getting your axle kit. We had to regroup because
> our farm here isn't selling yet, but it is a money- maker and we are
> sure it will. We may get a moslty done RV-10 when we sell.We see lots of
> RV ers when we fly the 79 Tiger we bought up to Independence for lunch
> all the time, from Eugene, Oregon.
>
> =C2-
>
> =C2-We bought this low-time Tiger last year and put in a 430 WAAS and a
> GMX200.( Also bought a 696 which we love) This year we had a GTX330
> installed, along with a PMA700 audio panel when our transponder went out
> near Gorman in Calif. We love it. At least it shows the traffic vectors
> for aircraft in the vicinity of busy airspace, and it can be upgraded
> later...hopefully by someone who buys our Tiger after the farm sells, so
> we can upgrade our plane. We want to fly all =C2-ver when we move to Oh
io
> near wife's brother. We keep reading about all your flying =C2-adventur
es,
> and are jealous. As long as we have this farm we have to work in the
> summer,selling produce at the Farmers' market, and ony have time for
> short trips. Oh well..patience..
>
> Talk to you later Tim, and thanks for all your input.
>
> Brian and Ruth
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2010 8:02:40 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Question
>
>
> I wouldn't say that a 330 locks you into anything, really.
> It is about the best way to get Mode-S TIS right now, but
> you don't get the ES part unless you buy the ES upgrade
> for something like $1200. =C2-So in actuality, it would give
> you the flexibility to go ES as your "OUT" for ADS-B if
> you needed to, although for not much more money you could
> go with a UAT and feed the Wx data to an onboard device.
>
> You're right, for now you could get a low-end Mode C
> transponder and save some money, but if you go with a 330
> you'll have TIS right now, and, the transponder won't be
> obsoleted by the ADS-B stuff coming forward. =C2-I know Mode
> S is "going away", but the timeframes are still a ways
> out there....and look at how VOR's, LORAN, and things like
> that were also supposed to be "going away". =C2-So really, what
> it comes down to is, if you're really trying to save every
> dollar you can, and you don't have any care for Mode S TIS,
> then go ahead and just buy a 327 or something. =C2-But, if you
> buy a 330, you can get Mode S TIS today, and that same box
> will work fine for you going forward, whether you choose
> a UAT or go the ES route. =C2-What I don't have a clue about
> is if the 327 is going to have any upgrade path to ES...and
> if it doesn't, it may be safer to just go the 330 route.
> The added cost isn't in extreme dollars.
>
> Also, just today I was watching Mode S TIS targets in the MSP
> area coming through the NavWorx ADS600 ADS-B receiver....it
> can take GTX330 Mode S Targets and output them to your device,
> along with outputting TIS-B targets. =C2-So with something like
> that, it gives some benefit to having either system. =C2-The one
> thing better would be active traffic, but to really get a
> good system that gives bearing, range, and altitude to
> "intruders", you're going to spend maybe 5X or 6X the price,
> and have to do some real good top and bottom fin antennas.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
com>
> =C2->
> =C2-> Keep in mind that a 330 locks you into the 1090ES standard for AD
SB,
> =C2-> while it looks like UAT will continue to be a more flexible and r
obust
> =C2-> system. If you want to keep options open, buy a low end Mode A/C
> =C2-> transponder for now. BTW, there is no such thing as IFR transpond
er.
> =C2-> They all have to meet a single TSO to be legal to use in aircraft
. As
> =C2-> long as you avoid certain airspace, it is still legal to fly IFR
with no
> =C2-> transponder. Might get some ATC complaints, however.
> =C2->
> =C2-> Tim Olson wrote:
> =C2->>
> =C2->> Robin, the 330 is the only one that does Mode-S tis, and
> =C2->> therefore would be the only one that you could use with
> =C2->> NavWorx Composite-TIS function. =C2-If you buy a cheaper
> =C2->> one without Mode-S, you'll only get ADS-B targets.
> =C2->> With the 330, you can get either, via their box...assuming
> =C2->> the G900 uses the same standard interface they use
> =C2->> for other things.
> =C2->>
> =C2->> Tim
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->> Robin Marks wrote:
> =C2->>> I am laying out my =9CBudget=9D RV-8A panel and hav
e a transponder
> =C2->>> question. And yes I know this is the -10 list but I think I sti
ll
> =C2->>> have privileges here.
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> I =C2-am unclear what is the lowest priced Garmin Transponder
that will
> =C2->>> ultimately work with ADS-B and other traffic warning systems.
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> I understand that the GTX-330 is their top of the line and is I
FR
> =C2->>> certified but will the GTX-237 work with things like Navworx an
d TIS?
> =C2->>> It does not appear to be the case.
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> =C2-
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> Thanks,
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> Robin
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> =C2-
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> Phase 1 of Panel design (~$30K):
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> 8A Panel 1 Concept.jpg
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> Concept 1.5.jpg
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->
> =C2->
> =C2->
> =C2->
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
Message 49
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Ok, it was an ex-wife's mothers sister.-
Don
--- On Sun, 1/3/10, AirMike <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net> wrote:
From: AirMike <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Total Age
How do you make an ex-relative?
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279968#279968
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 50
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| Subject: | FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal |
On the 8A I modified the cowl inlet, extending it forward and adding a shark
fin between the inlet and the top of the bottom cowl. The FAB was modified
to accept a 3" SCAT hose. I made and then glassed in a 2" long tube to the
inside of the cowl inlet, the tube diameter such that the 3" hose slides
over it. The hose is attached to the FAB with a hose clamp, and slides on
the outside of the lower cowl tube. As the hose is slightly longer than the
gap between the cowl and the FAB, the hose spring keeps it in place. I'll
do something similar for the 10.
Attached is a photo of the second cowl mod - still in primer gray at that
point. I had to move the intake back 3/4" for prop clearance when I
upgraded to a Hartzell CS prop on the 8A.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 8:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal
It is a real pain to install/remove the cowl with the baffle interface seal
on the FAB. I know at least one RV10 builder who has eliminated the baffle
seal material at the interface. In discussing this problem with another
builder, I was wondering if any builder has come up with a unique solution
to this problem or the technical ramifications of leaving the seal material
off.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279960#279960
Message 51
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Nope, not aviation induced.....happenned before the sailing and the airplan
e... got a really good one now... fights for the right hand seat!
--- On Sun, 1/3/10, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <rvbuilder@sausen.net> wrot
e:
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Total Age
ausen.net>
Aviation Induced Divorce Syndrome.- ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Total Age
How do you make an ex-relative?
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279968#279968
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: FW: Z-14 Switch Combos |
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Message 53
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| Subject: | additional latch for 10 doors |
Here you go Rick....
G'Day all,
I am a 3 time offender (two RV6's and now a 10). I have about 1400 hrs
on RV's and 2000hrs TT. Never had an incident or accident till about a
year ago when my passenger door flew open on T/O!!! I remembered Van's
advice to fly the plane and did a circuit. The passenger managed to grab
the door as I turned downwind and applied rudder - the slip helped close
the door.
I sent a very detailed report to Van but no comment or reply. The RV10
is a magnificent A/C but the doors are its Achilles' heal!
Over the past year I put my thinking cap on and came up with a very
simple but highly effective solution. I have passed it on to Ken and
Richard but still no reply. Thought I might share the solution with this
forum as I believe ALL RV10's should have a similar device. It can only
improve A/C safety.
I got to thinking that the bonnet of a car has the same potential to
cause total havoc if it were to open during travel. A car bonnet has a
safety latch which automatically engages when the bonnet closes.
My door latch works in a similar fashion:
First there is a striker plate that is secured onto the lower cabin
frame (as seen below). The fiberglass of the cabin door entry has to be
reduced both vertically and on the inside, to accommodate the plate,
which is "Z" shaped in cross section, so as to provide some undercut on
the inside of the door jamb (which engages the latch on the door). The
striker plate is pop riveted and epoxied into place - an easy retro-fit.
http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39472qo0.jpg
<http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp39472qo0.jpg>
The top of the plate is at the same level as the edge of the lower cabin
frame.
http://img225.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39422fc2.jpg
<http://img225.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp39422fc2.jpg>
Next the door latch was made up - I cut a hole in the inner door skin
and made the latch as seen below. The latch pivots on a U-shaped bracket
secured to the base of the door and there is a powerful hinge spring
that ensures that the latch engages the undercut of the Z-plate. The
name "Staniforth latch" is to honour the poor victim who was sitting in
the plane when the door unexpectedly opened!!!!! I recently asked him to
come for a fly (and to see his latches) but strangely, he refused!!
http://img115.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39492gw2.jpg
<http://img115.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp39492gw2.jpg>
The wire spring can just be seen in the photo below.
http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39462nm1.jpg
<http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp39462nm1.jpg>
As the door closes, the spring loaded latch lifts over the striker plate
and then drops down and engages the undercut of the striker plate. Very
simple, works every time; it cannot not work!!
http://img217.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39442xo6.jpg
<http://img217.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp39442xo6.jpg>
Both the striker plate and latch are made of stainless steel.
Note the undercut on the latch in the photo below.
http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39452ip0.jpg
<http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp39452ip0.jpg>
It also has a rod that exits through the outside door skin (sticks out
about an inch) so that it can be deactivated when opening the door from
outside.
http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39392os9.jpg
<http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp39392os9.jpg>
The latch has three functions, one expected and two not:
(i) once the door closes, there is an obvious "clunk" as the spring
loaded latch engages the striker plate and drops into place, and even if
the pilot/passenger fail to close the main door latch (pins), the door
cannot open - this function I expected.
Additional (unexpected) functions are:
(ii) once the latch/striker have engaged, it pulls the door inward SO
THAT THE DOOR PINS HAVE NO OPTION BUT TO ENGAGE - this overcomes the
problem of the opening effect of the gas strut and the door seal pushing
the rear of the door outward, and the rear pin failing to engage.
(iii) in-flight, the latch carries load. This means that the doors
actually flex outward because of aerodynamic forces, which are carried
by the latch! I have tried to open the safety latch in-flight and they
become really tight because of the load they are carrying. This reduces
the forces that have to be carried by the door pins.
At a recent SAAA (Australia) fly-in I had several RV10 builders have a
look at my plane and especially the doors, and comments were very
favorable. All of the other three RV10's at the meeting, had damage to
the fibreglass associated with the rear door pins!!
BTW, I have fitted an air-conditioning unit and this really increases
comfort in this very, very hot country - a MUST, I would say! I fitted a
FlightLine system and it works as advitised!
Cheers
Andre Viljoen
Follow-up Message:
Went out to the A/P recently and took a few more photos with the latch
cover off - hopes this helps with understanding the design.
http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?i...3120866kx1.jpg
<http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?image=83120866kx1.jpg>
The photo above shows the latch with the cover plate removed and we can
see:
* Two stainless steel 'L' shaped brackets that have been bolted and
epoxied to the base of the door.
* An AN3 bolt goes through a rod welded to the inner edge of the latch
to make a hinge.
* On top of the latch is a rod that protrudes through the outer skin of
the door.
http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?i...0296171dk7.jpg
<http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?image=70296171dk7.jpg>
This is a shot from underneath showing the rod that goes through the
door for external opening. Also note how the spring goes into the head
of the latch. The spring is essential for the latch to work. Also seen
are the two countersunk bolts that secure the 'L' shaped brackets.
http://img257.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp41302gq7.jpg
<http://img257.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp41302gq7.jpg>
Here the latch is being held up from the outside - note the powerful
spring that pulls the latch downwards and ensures that it engages
securely with the striker plate.
From: ricksked@cox.net [mailto:ricksked@cox.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Mike,
There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice center latch, I will
need to check my RV photos to see if I still have them. It was a spring
loaded latch with a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone tore it
up(surprise) because you could not open from the outside in an emergency
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
Hi again TIm,
I was ambiguos about the word sell. I meant that we have two interested cli
ents in the farm, not the plane..we are about to put some leather seats in
it also. Got a very good bid from someone in Aurora, Oregon near Vans. I kn
ow we won't get our money all back when we sell 179GT, but we will at least
have some fun with it before we move, and perhaps for a short while after.
Th epanel pics are from before we had the GTX 330 and PMA 7000 audio panel
installed. Al so hard wired the 696 on the co-pilot's side. It shows traff
ic also.
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2010 11:33:51 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Question
Yeah, I was wondering how that Tiger was treating you. =C2-Do you know
how they are on grass? =C2-I'm looking for a time builder for Andrea now
that she's got her certificate, and I was thinking RV7A/9A, but maybe
a Tiger wouldn't be so bad if it can handle grass.
Well, hope you have good luck selling the farm eventually!
Tim
cloudvalley@comcast.net wrote:
> Hi TIme,
>
> =C2-My wife, Ruth and I were RV10 builders but sold our empennage a lit
tle
> over a year ago, after getting your axle kit. We had to regroup because
> our farm here isn't selling yet, but it is a money- maker and we are
> sure it will. We may get a moslty done RV-10 when we sell.We see lots of
> RV ers when we fly the 79 Tiger we bought up to Independence for lunch
> all the time, from Eugene, Oregon.
>
> =C2-
>
> =C2-We bought this low-time Tiger last year and put in a 430 WAAS and a
> GMX200.( Also bought a 696 which we love) This year we had a GTX330
> installed, along with a PMA700 audio panel when our transponder went out
> near Gorman in Calif. We love it. At least it shows the traffic vectors
> for aircraft in the vicinity of busy airspace, and it can be upgraded
> later...hopefully by someone who buys our Tiger after the farm sells, so
> we can upgrade our plane. We want to fly all =C2-ver when we move to Oh
io
> near wife's brother. We keep reading about all your flying =C2-adventur
es,
> and are jealous. As long as we have this farm we have to work in the
> summer,selling produce at the Farmers' market, and ony have time for
> short trips. Oh well..patience..
>
> Talk to you later Tim, and thanks for all your input.
>
> Brian and Ruth
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2010 8:02:40 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Transponder Question
>
>
> I wouldn't say that a 330 locks you into anything, really.
> It is about the best way to get Mode-S TIS right now, but
> you don't get the ES part unless you buy the ES upgrade
> for something like $1200. =C2-So in actuality, it would give
> you the flexibility to go ES as your "OUT" for ADS-B if
> you needed to, although for not much more money you could
> go with a UAT and feed the Wx data to an onboard device.
>
> You're right, for now you could get a low-end Mode C
> transponder and save some money, but if you go with a 330
> you'll have TIS right now, and, the transponder won't be
> obsoleted by the ADS-B stuff coming forward. =C2-I know Mode
> S is "going away", but the timeframes are still a ways
> out there....and look at how VOR's, LORAN, and things like
> that were also supposed to be "going away". =C2-So really, what
> it comes down to is, if you're really trying to save every
> dollar you can, and you don't have any care for Mode S TIS,
> then go ahead and just buy a 327 or something. =C2-But, if you
> buy a 330, you can get Mode S TIS today, and that same box
> will work fine for you going forward, whether you choose
> a UAT or go the ES route. =C2-What I don't have a clue about
> is if the 327 is going to have any upgrade path to ES...and
> if it doesn't, it may be safer to just go the 330 route.
> The added cost isn't in extreme dollars.
>
> Also, just today I was watching Mode S TIS targets in the MSP
> area coming through the NavWorx ADS600 ADS-B receiver....it
> can take GTX330 Mode S Targets and output them to your device,
> along with outputting TIS-B targets. =C2-So with something like
> that, it gives some benefit to having either system. =C2-The one
> thing better would be active traffic, but to really get a
> good system that gives bearing, range, and altitude to
> "intruders", you're going to spend maybe 5X or 6X the price,
> and have to do some real good top and bottom fin antennas.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
com>
> =C2->
> =C2-> Keep in mind that a 330 locks you into the 1090ES standard for AD
SB,
> =C2-> while it looks like UAT will continue to be a more flexible and r
obust
> =C2-> system. If you want to keep options open, buy a low end Mode A/C
> =C2-> transponder for now. BTW, there is no such thing as IFR transpond
er.
> =C2-> They all have to meet a single TSO to be legal to use in aircraft
. As
> =C2-> long as you avoid certain airspace, it is still legal to fly IFR
with no
> =C2-> transponder. Might get some ATC complaints, however.
> =C2->
> =C2-> Tim Olson wrote:
> =C2->>
> =C2->> Robin, the 330 is the only one that does Mode-S tis, and
> =C2->> therefore would be the only one that you could use with
> =C2->> NavWorx Composite-TIS function. =C2-If you buy a cheaper
> =C2->> one without Mode-S, you'll only get ADS-B targets.
> =C2->> With the 330, you can get either, via their box...assuming
> =C2->> the G900 uses the same standard interface they use
> =C2->> for other things.
> =C2->>
> =C2->> Tim
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->> Robin Marks wrote:
> =C2->>> I am laying out my =9CBudget=9D RV-8A panel and hav
e a transponder
> =C2->>> question. And yes I know this is the -10 list but I think I sti
ll
> =C2->>> have privileges here.
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> I =C2-am unclear what is the lowest priced Garmin Transponder
that will
> =C2->>> ultimately work with ADS-B and other traffic warning systems.
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> I understand that the GTX-330 is their top of the line and is I
FR
> =C2->>> certified but will the GTX-237 work with things like Navworx an
d TIS?
> =C2->>> It does not appear to be the case.
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> =C2-
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> Thanks,
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> Robin
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> =C2-
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> Phase 1 of Panel design (~$30K):
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> 8A Panel 1 Concept.jpg
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>> Concept 1.5.jpg
> =C2->>>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->>
> =C2->
> =C2->
> =C2->
> =C2->
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
Message 55
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| Subject: | Re: additional latch for 10 doors |
Phil,
Very clever and simple design.
Wish someone with machining capabilities would make these for others
to use!
grumpy
N184JM
On Jan 3, 2010, at 8:12 PM, Perry, Phil wrote:
> Here you go Rick=85.
>
>
> G=92Day all,
>
> I am a 3 time offender (two RV6=92s and now a 10). I have about 1400
> hrs on RV=92s and 2000hrs TT. Never had an incident or accident till
> about a year ago when my passenger door flew open on T/O!!! I
> remembered Van=92s advice to fly the plane and did a circuit. The
> passenger managed to grab thedoor as I turned downwind and applied
> rudder ' the slip helped close the door.
>
> I sent a very detailed report to Van but no comment or reply. The
> RV10 is a magnificent A/C but the doors are its Achilles=92 heal!
>
> Over the past year I put my thinking cap on and came up with a very
> simple but highly effective solution. I have passed it on to Ken and
> Richard but still no reply. Thought I might share the solution with
> this forum as I believe ALL RV10=92s should have a similar device. It
> can only improve A/C safety.
>
> I got to thinking that the bonnet of a car has the same potential to
> cause total havoc if it were to open during travel. A car bonnet has
> a safety latch which automatically engages when the bonnet closes.
>
> My door latch works in a similar fashion:
>
> First there is a striker plate that is secured onto the lower cabin
> frame (as seen below). The fiberglass of the cabin door entry has to
> be reduced both vertically and on the inside, to accommodate the
> plate, which is "Z" shaped in cross section, so as to provide some
> undercut on the inside of the door jamb (which engages the latch on
> the door). The striker plate is pop riveted and epoxied into place -
> an easy retro-fit.
>
> http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39472qo0.jpg
>
> The top of the plate is at the same level as the edge of the lower
> cabin frame.
>
> http://img225.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39422fc2.jpg
>
> Next the door latch was made up - I cut a hole in the inner door
> skin and made the latch as seen below. The latch pivots on a U-
> shaped bracket secured to the base of the door and there is a
> powerful hinge spring that ensures that the latch engages the
> undercut of the Z-plate. The name "Staniforth latch" is to honour
> the poor victim who was sitting in the plane when the
> doorunexpectedly opened!!!!! I recently asked him to come for a fly
> (and to see his latches) but strangely, he refused!!
>
> http://img115.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39492gw2.jpg
>
> The wire spring can just be seen in the photo below.
>
> http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39462nm1.jpg
>
> As the door closes, the spring loaded latch lifts over the striker
> plate and then drops down and engages the undercut of the striker
> plate. Very simple, works every time; it cannot not work!!
>
> http://img217.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39442xo6.jpg
>
> Both the striker plate and latch are made of stainless steel.
>
> Note the undercut on the latch in the photo below.
>
> http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39452ip0.jpg
>
> It also has a rod that exits through the outside door skin (sticks
> out about an inch) so that it can be deactivated when opening the
> door from outside.
>
> http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp39392os9.jpg
>
> The latch has three functions, one expected and two not:
>
> (i) once the door closes, there is an obvious "clunk" as the spring
> loaded latch engages the striker plate and drops into place, and
> even if the pilot/passenger fail to close the main door latch
> (pins), the door cannot open - this function I expected.
>
> Additional (unexpected) functions are:
>
> (ii) once the latch/striker have engaged, it pulls the door inward
> SO THAT THE DOOR PINS HAVE NO OPTION BUT TO ENGAGE - this overcomes
> the problem of the opening effect of the gas strut and thedoor seal
> pushing the rear of the door outward, and the rear pin failing to
> engage.
>
> (iii) in-flight, the latch carries load. This means that the doors
> actually flex outward because of aerodynamic forces, which are
> carried by the latch! I have tried to open the safety latch in-
> flight and they become really tight because of the load they are
> carrying. This reduces the forces that have to be carried by the
> door pins.
>
> At a recent SAAA (Australia) fly-in I had several RV10 builders have
> a look at my plane and especially the doors, and comments were very
> favorable. All of the other three RV10's at the meeting, had damage
> to the fibreglass associated with the rear door pins!!
>
> BTW, I have fitted an air-conditioning unit and this really
> increases comfort in this very, very hot country - a MUST, I would
> say! I fitted a FlightLine system and it works as advitised!
>
> Cheers
>
> Andre Viljoen
>
>
> Follow-up Message:
>
> Went out to the A/P recently and took a few more photos with the
> latch cover off - hopes this helps with understanding the design.
>
> http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?i...3120866kx1.jpg
>
> The photo above shows the latch with the cover plate removed and we
> can see:
> * Two stainless steel =91L=92 shaped brackets that have been bolted and
> epoxied to the base of thedoor.
> * An AN3 bolt goes through a rod welded to the inner edge of the
> latch to make a hinge.
> * On top of the latch is a rod that protrudes through the outer skin
> of the door.
>
> http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?i...0296171dk7.jpg
>
> This is a shot from underneath showing the rod that goes through the
> door for external opening. Also note how the spring goes into the
> head of the latch. The spring is essential for the latch to work.
> Also seen are the two countersunk bolts that secure the =91L=92 shaped
> brackets.
>
> http://img257.imageshack.us/my.php?i...gp41302gq7.jpg
>
> Here the latch is being held up from the outside ' note the powerful
> spring that pulls the latchdownwards and ensures that it engages
> securely with the striker plate.
>
>
> From: ricksked@cox.net [mailto:ricksked@cox.net]
> Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:48 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
>
> Mike,
>
> There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice center latch, I
> will need to check my RV photos to see if I still have them. It was
> a spring loaded latch with a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone
> tore it up(surprise) because you could not open from the outside in
> an emergency
>
> Rick Sked
> N246RS
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
>
>
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal |
2 problems...
1) You will lose some intake pressure where you may have had a little
RAM air effect.
2) The bigger problem....you may leak air and pressurize your lower
cowling, which would then cause it to be at a higher pressure, which
would then cause the differential from above the cylinders to below
the cylinders to be less, which could cause cooling problems from
both cylinders, and/or oil cooling. I know it's a pain, but
the best move is to just rework that area until it's bearable.
Mine is a very good close seal. I save some headaches by doing
plain oil changes without removing the lower cowl.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
AirMike wrote:
>
> It is a real pain to install/remove the cowl with the baffle
> interface seal on the FAB. I know at least one RV10 builder who has
> eliminated the baffle seal material at the interface. In discussing
> this problem with another builder, I was wondering if any builder has
> come up with a unique solution to this problem or the technical
> ramifications of leaving the seal material off.
>
> -------- OSH '10 or Bust Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279960#279960
>
Message 57
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| Subject: | FW: Z-14 Switch Combos |
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Message 58
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|
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Question |
I think I asked that question of them during my install too, and was
just highly encouraged to use a shark fin. From an aerodynamic
perspective I think it's better too. You want a DME/Transponder
antenna that works in that range from 960-1220mhz. I think
mine is the RAMI AV-74
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Pascal wrote:
>
> Tim;
> You mention the shark fin transponder, is that a specific requirement or
> does any transponder antenna work the same?
> Thanks!
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@myrv10.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 4:13 PM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Transponder Question
>
>>
>> It's just a normal shark-fin Transponder antenna. One wire. Oh and
>> you'll add a GPS antenna. On mine I put the GPS antenna under the
>> vertical stab fairing, since I don't consider this as "critical to
>> navigation". You can feed GPS in to the box from some other source,
>> but the requirements of that GPS spec are pretty stringent, per ads-b
>> requirements, so I figured the simple way was to just use the built-in
>> GPS.
>>
>> The active traffic systems use like 4 wires for the antenna, or
>> something like that, and the blade is much larger.
>> The antenna for Ads-b is smaller and mounts on the belly.
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jan 3, 2010, at 5:53 PM, "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I think you do need an additional antenna 4' away from the Transponder
>>> antenna. About $110.00 from Navworx. I forgot what type of antenna but
>>> it's a common aviation antenna. I plan the add the Navworx to two ships
>>> so I will figure it out sooner or later (most likely later).
>>>
>>> Robin
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>> Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 2:39 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Transponder Question
>>>
>>>
>>> It doesn't.....but Navworx can receive via arinc from the 330 and mix
>>> that mode s with their ads-b to send to your display, depending on
>>> your avionics choices and configuration.
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, "lbgjb10" <lbgjb@gnt.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> didn't realize that 330 worked with ADS-B, thought it was only S
>>>> mode. Does my 18 month old 330 have that capacity?? does it need
>>>> different antenna?? upgrade?? larry
>>>>
>>>> --------
>>>> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279930#279930
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> 01/02/10 08:22:00
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 59
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|
| Subject: | additional latch for 10 doors |
Yes i recall. I am considering attaching it to the existing push rod so it
would open from the outside with the existing mechanism. Just am hoping so
meone smarter than I has already done the design.
Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
From: ricksked@cox.net
Mike=2C
There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice center latch=2C I will nee
d to check my RV photos to see if I still have them. It was a spring loaded
latch with a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone tore it up(surprise) be
cause you could not open from the outside in an emergency
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Has anyone added an additional latching mechanism =3Bat the bottom of&n
= bsp=3Btheir doors. =3B As I am finishing my door latches I am consi
deri= ng adding an '"L" shaped catch in the bottom of the door (inserted
into the= =3Bbottom door =3Bframe/fuse) =3Bthat would move aft (at
tached= to the aft rod) through a slot and provide assurance that the doo
r can not= move upward=2C both to improve fit and for safety against do
or opening.&nb= sp=3B Any thoughts on this? =
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
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3D
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
)=AD=E6=DF=A2{l=8B7=B7=0Fg('=8A=D3M4=D1=F6=9C{p=DC=A2=EAz=B9=DE=C1
=CA.=AE'=AB=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3
=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC
==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC=
=C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC4=E1y=15u=D0=B8
=AC=B4I=9A=8AQh=AE=E9=B7 K=1E=B6=17=8Cj=DA=E8=9E'=2C.+-=15=E6=AD=BA=B7=AC5
=AB=81=ABh=AE=DA=1B=AE=8C=2C{p=ED=85=E9=9A=9F"=B2=DB=AD=8AX=AD=89=EB
=2C=B9=C8Z=B0=B8=AC=B5I=FFJ=E6=ECr=B8=A9=B6*'=DC0+r=18=AFy'=9A=AD=C8C=A3
=E5=A1=A7{ =AC=81=AE=8C=2Cx(Z=B4P=10=DC3=E1=A2=DA=2C=85=DEjwf=B9=C8f=B9
=C8f=A2=B7=B7=0Fp=DA=86=B7=9F=DC8m=B6=9F=FF=C3 &j=DA=E8=9E'=2Cr=895=AB
=81=ABh=AD=15u=D0=B8=AC=B6=1Bm=A7=FF=F0=C3 =9A=B6=BA'=89=CB=1C=A2o=CDj
=F8 j=DA+E]t.+-=FD=AD=C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC=
=C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3
=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC
==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC3&#
0=3BM=13=8D $'=10=11NEC=12=DC4=9A=99=E8+y=AB\=A2{^=9E=D6=A5=B2=86=AFj)ZnW
=AF=89=ABayg=9B=16=8A=EE=9A=CD=C3=DC6=A1=AD=E7=F7=0E=1Bm=A7=FF=DF=A2=BB
=B2f=AD=AE=89r=C7(=9A=1Bm=A7=FF=DF=A2=BB=B2f=AD=AE=89r=C7(=9B=F6
=B7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7
=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp
=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=CB
=8A=CBB=A2{k=89=BB=AD=8A=89=D6y=B4=A2=B5=ED=C3N=16=A7=93*.~=8A=F2=A2=EA=E0z
w=AB=A2=EB=2C=BA=9Ah=AE=DD=C31=ABm=0E=B6=A5-=B2=D0=1D=9A)=F7 =A8ky
=FD=C3=86=DBi=FF=FC0=C2f=AD=AE=89r=C7(=9B=F7(=9E=DAn=EBb=A2xm=B6=9F
=FF=C3 &j=DA=E8=9E'=2Cr=89r=89=ED=AE&=EE=B6*'=FD=AD=C3=DC==C3=DC==C3
=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC
==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC=
=C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3
=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC?=DB=FD=FA'=B7=FAk{=F6=E8w/=E1=B6i
Message 60
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|
| Subject: | Re: 90 degree drills |
No need to spend like the military with their $400 hammers--$57.25!
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/tightfittoolkit.php
On Sun, Jan 3, 2010 at 6:29 PM, John Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> wrote:
> Teaser triggers can give you the best of both. I passed on a 90 and 45
> with either at $250. I still regret the day that I passed. Couldn't
> justify more for the RV-10 build.
>
> John Cox
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Neal George
> *Sent:* Sun 1/3/2010 1:39 PM
>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: 90 degree drills
>
> Phil '
>
> I have a 500rpm APT that I love. Bought it used from The Yard.
>
> Also have a 2500rpm UAT that I hate ' too much starting torque.
>
> I have a strong preference for the slower drills - much more control...
>
> neal
>
>
> ===========
>
> On the topic of tools=85=85=85=85=85=85=85=85=85=85
>
>
> Anyone have a 90 degree drill that they=92re absolutely in love with?
>
>
> The Sioux is $445.
>
> I see some imports (Taylor) for $250ish.
>
> Then some others for $200.
>
>
> Anyone have any special feelings for their drill? (Easy Mr. Sked) J
>
>
> Phil
>
> *
> *
>
> **
>
>
> --
> William
> N40237 - http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
>
Message 61
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|
| Subject: | Re: additional latch for 10 doors |
Speaking of doors......I am installing mine at this time. After reading
a lot of write ups on the doors my father and I have been looking at a
third pin for my doors. I have been building the plane in my father's
machine shop. I told him about the doors coming open in flight and he
has worked on several different ways to make a third pin or latch that
actuates with the stock handle. He has been successful making some test
models that would work. So as time went on we have had the opportunity
to look at Scott's RV. Scott has done a beautiful job with his plane
and made the doors work like they are supposed to. He also installed
the prox. switches to show the doors are fully latched. After my dad
and I went out to Scott's hangar and on a few flights with Scott we
decided that it is not necessary to make the third pin. If the door is
not latched, the light is still on. Pretty simple. Now if my doors
don't come out as good as Scott's did, I may add one. One good thing
about the stock door handles are the locking mechanism on the handle to
avoid inadvertant opening. I notice after market latches don't have
this lock but look a lot nicer than Van's. Robin came up with a fix for
this also.
If builders and flyers out there think I'm crazy and I should make the
third pin please tell me why. I am looking for a reason to build these.
----- Original Message ----- .
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:38 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Yes i recall. I am considering attaching it to the existing push rod
so it would open from the outside with the existing mechanism. Just am
hoping someone smarter than I has already done the design.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
From: ricksked@cox.net
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 01:47:38 +0000
Mike,
There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice center latch, I will
need to check my RV photos to see if I still have them. It was a spring
loaded latch with a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone tore it
up(surprise) because you could not open from the outside in an emergency
Rick Sked
N246RS Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 18:33:34 -0700
To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Has anyone added an additional latching mechanism =3Bat the bottom
of&n= bsp=3Btheir doors. =3B As I am finishing my door latches I
am consideri= ng adding an '"L" shaped catch in the bottom of the door
(inserted into the= =3Bbottom door =3Bframe/fuse) =3Bthat would
move aft (attached= to the aft rod) through a slot and provide
assurance that the door can not= move upward=2C both to improve fit
and for safety against door opening.&nb= sp=3B Any thoughts on this?
=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
)=AD=E6=DF=A2{l=8B7=B7=0Fg('=8A=D3M4=D1=F6=9C{p=DC=A2=EAz=B9=DE=C1
=CA.=AE'=AB=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3
=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC
==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC=
=C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC4=E1y=15u=D0=B8
=AC=B4I=9A=8AQh=AE=E9=B7
K=1E=B6=17=8Cj=DA=E8=9E',.+-=15=E6=AD=BA=B7=AC5=AB=81=ABh=AE=DA=1B=AE=8C
,{p=ED=85=E9=9A=9F"=B2=DB=AD=8AX=AD=89=EB,=B9=C8Z=B0=B8=AC=B5I=FFJ=E6=EC
r=B8=A9=B6*'=DC0+r=18=AFy'=9A=AD=C8C=A3 =E5=A1=A7{
=AC=81=AE=8C,x(Z=B4P=10=DC3=E1=A2=DA,=85=DEjwf=B9=C8f=B9=C8f=A2=B7=B7=0F
p=DA=86=B7=9F=DC8m=B6=9F=FF=C3
&j=DA=E8=9E',r=895=AB=81=ABh=AD=15u=D0=B8=AC=B6=1Bm=A7=FF=F0=C3
=9A=B6=BA'=89=CB=1C=A2o=CDj=F8
j=DA+E]t.+-=FD=AD=C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3
=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC
==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC=
=C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC3�
;M=13=8D
$'=10=11NEC=12=DC4=9A=99=E8+y=AB\=A2{^=9E=D6=A5=B2=86=AFj)ZnW=AF=89=ABa
yg=9B=16=8A=EE=9A=CD=C3=DC6=A1=AD=E7=F7=0E=1Bm=A7=FF=DF=A2=BB=B2f=AD=AE
=89r=C7(=9A=1Bm=A7=FF=DF=A2=BB=B2f=AD=AE=89r=C7(=9B=F6=B7=0Fp=F7
=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0F
p=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7
=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=F7=0Fp=CB=8A=CBB=A2
{k=89=BB=AD=8A=89=D6y=B4=A2=B5=ED=C3N=16=A7=93*.~=8A=F2=A2=EA=E0zw=AB=A2=EB
,=BA=9Ah=AE=DD=C31=ABm=0E=B6=A5-=B2=D0=1D=9A)=F7
=A8ky=FD=C3=86=DBi=FF=FC0=C2f=AD=AE=89r=C7(=9B=F7(=9E=DAn=EBb=A2xm=B6
=9F=FF=C3
&j=DA=E8=9E',r=89r=89=ED=AE&=EE=B6*'=FD=AD=C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3
=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC
==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC=
=C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3=DC==C3
=DC==C3=DC?=DB=FD=FA'=B7=FAk{=F6=E8w/=E1=B6i
Message 62
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|
| Subject: | Re: 90 degree drills |
I first bought one of those. They're not a horrible kit, but
there are parts of the drill that are plastic. After using it
for a while, I bought an all metal one that is actually smaller
in size. Can't remember the tool company...I thought it was
ATS, but whatever it was, it was yellow in color and came
in a pouch. The plastic case on this set is better, but I think
the quality of the all metal one is better than this one.
Depends on how many holes you need to do, but for longevity
I find it's nice to buy a little nicer tool.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
William Curtis wrote:
> No need to spend like the military with their $400 hammers--$57.25!
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/tightfittoolkit.php
>
> On Sun, Jan 3, 2010 at 6:29 PM, John Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com
> <mailto:johnwcox@pacificnw.com>> wrote:
>
> Teaser triggers can give you the best of both. I passed on a 90 and
> 45 with either at $250. I still regret the day that I passed.
> Couldn't justify more for the RV-10 build.
>
> John Cox
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com> on behalf of Neal George
> *Sent:* Sun 1/3/2010 1:39 PM
>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: 90 degree drills
>
> Phil
>
> I have a 500rpm APT that I love. Bought it used from The Yard.
>
> Also have a 2500rpm UAT that I hate too much starting torque.
>
> I have a strong preference for the slower drills - much more control...
>
> neal
>
>
>
> ===========
>
> On the topic of tools
>
>
>
> Anyone have a 90 degree drill that theyre absolutely in love with?
>
>
>
> The Sioux is $445.
>
> I see some imports (Taylor) for $250ish.
>
> Then some others for $200.
>
>
>
> Anyone have any special feelings for their drill? (Easy Mr. Sked) J
>
>
>
> Phil
>
> *
> *
>
> **
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> William
> N40237 - http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 63
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|
| Subject: | Re: additional latch for 10 doors |
Sean,
Regardless of the door handles, I'd like to enter my vote as to
you being crazy. Definitely a "Yeah" vote to that one.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
definitely do not archive
Seano wrote:
> Speaking of doors......I am installing mine at this time. After reading
> a lot of write ups on the doors my father and I have been looking at a
> third pin for my doors. I have been building the plane in my father's
> machine shop. I told him about the doors coming open in flight and he
> has worked on several different ways to make a third pin or latch that
> actuates with the stock handle. He has been successful making some test
> models that would work. So as time went on we have had the opportunity
> to look at Scott's RV. Scott has done a beautiful job with his plane
> and made the doors work like they are supposed to. He also installed
> the prox. switches to show the doors are fully latched. After my dad
> and I went out to Scott's hangar and on a few flights with Scott we
> decided that it is not necessary to make the third pin. If the door is
> not latched, the light is still on. Pretty simple. Now if my doors
> don't come out as good as Scott's did, I may add one. One good thing
> about the stock door handles are the locking mechanism on the handle to
> avoid inadvertant opening. I notice after market latches don't have
> this lock but look a lot nicer than Van's. Robin came up with a fix for
> this also.
> If builders and flyers out there think I'm crazy and I should make the
> third pin please tell me why. I am looking for a reason to build these.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- .
> *From:* Roxanne and Mike Lefever <mailto:roxianmike@msn.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:38 PM
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
>
> Yes i recall. I am considering attaching it to the existing push rod
> so it would open from the outside with the existing mechanism. Just
> am hoping someone smarter than I has already done the design.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
> From: ricksked@cox.net <mailto:ricksked@cox.net>
> Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 01:47:38 +0000
>
> Mike,
>
> There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice center latch, I
> will need to check my RV photos to see if I still have them. It was
> a spring loaded latch with a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone
> tore it up(surprise) because you could not open from the outside in
> an emergency
>
> Rick Sked
> N246RS Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From: *Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com>
> *Date: *Sun, 3 Jan 2010 18:33:34 -0700
> *To: *<rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject: *RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
>
> Has anyone added an additional latching mechanism =3Bat the bottom
> of&n= bsp=3Btheir doors. =3B As I am finishing my door latches I am
> consideri= ng adding an '"L" shaped catch in the bottom of the door
> (inserted into the= =3Bbottom door =3Bframe/fuse) =3Bthat would
> move aft (attached= to the aft rod) through a slot and provide
> assurance that the door can not= move upward=2C both to improve fit
> and for safety against door opening.&nb= sp=3B Any thoughts on this?
>
> *
>
> 3D============================================
> 3D============================================
> 3D============================================
> 3D============================================
>
> *
>
> ){l7g(M4{pz.'==============================4yuIQh
> Kj',.+-5h,{p"X,ZIJr*'0+ry'C
> { ,x(ZP3,jwfffp8m
> &j',r5hum
> 'oj j+E]t.+-==============================3�M
> $NEC4+y\{^j)ZnWayg6mfr(mfr(pppppppppppppppppppppppppppppppB{kyN*.~zw,h1m)
> kyi0fr((nbxm
> &j',rr&*'=============================?'k{w/i
>
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 64
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|
| Subject: | Re: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal |
I built up the inlet of the airbox so it has a flat face parallel to the
crank flange, then glued a smooth plastic "O" to it made from something like
.032 PVC sheet. Aluminum would work too. Then I built the inside of the
cowl aft to within a half-inch of the "O" and filled the half-inch gap with
a soft foam seal. The seal is glued to the cowl and it just compresses
about 1/8" when the cowl goes on. The smooth plastic is the sealing surface
that the foam contacts. There's no mechanical connection so the FAB can
move around all it wants.
You hardly notice it's there, and it can't fold down to block the inlet.
I'll look for some pictures tomorrow.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Sun, Jan 3, 2010 at 5:18 PM, AirMike <Mikeabel@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
> It is a real pain to install/remove the cowl with the baffle interface seal
> on the FAB. I know at least one RV10 builder who has eliminated the baffle
> seal material at the interface. In discussing this problem with another
> builder, I was wondering if any builder has come up with a unique solution
> to this problem or the technical ramifications of leaving the seal material
> off.
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279960#279960
>
>
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| Subject: | additional latch for 10 doors |
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