Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:54 AM - Re: additional latch for 10 doors (Seano)
2. 06:29 AM - FS: RV-10 tail kit (Eric Ekberg)
3. 07:59 AM - Re: FW: Z-14 Switch Combos (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
4. 08:58 AM - Re: FS: RV-10 tail kit (luis@cristabelle.net)
5. 09:11 AM - Re: FS: RV-10 tail kit (jss165@yahoo.com)
6. 09:22 AM - Re: additional latch for 10 doors (Seano)
7. 09:24 AM - Re: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal (Albert Gardner)
8. 10:36 AM - Re: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal (Deems Davis)
9. 10:46 AM - Re: Loose steps (Rob Kochman)
10. 10:54 AM - grt users group ()
11. 10:56 AM - Re: FS: RV-10 tail kit (Eric Ekberg)
12. 11:00 AM - Re: additional latch for 10 doors (Jim Berry)
13. 11:11 AM - Re: grt users group (Rene Felker)
14. 11:11 AM - Re: grt users group (Bob Leffler)
15. 11:19 AM - Re: grt users group (DLM)
16. 01:36 PM - Re: 90 degree drills (John Cumins)
17. 02:54 PM - Re: Re: FWF hoses (John Cumins)
18. 03:52 PM - AMSAFE rotary belts (DLM)
19. 04:29 PM - Re: AMSAFE rotary belts (Ron B.)
20. 05:25 PM - Re: grt users group (Rob Kermanj)
21. 05:25 PM - Re: Re: AMSAFE rotary belts (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
22. 06:35 PM - Re: Re: FWF hoses (Miller John)
23. 08:25 PM - Re: Re: AMSAFE rotary belts (DLM)
24. 08:41 PM - Re: Re: FWF hoses (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: additional latch for 10 doors |
Thanks I-Tim,
I already new the answer to that part of the question.
While we are on the subject of doors, I think I am ready to hinge my left
door. I haven't sanded it down to fit all the way in the canopy but it's
really close. The top is flush but the bottom still sits outside the
canopy. Can I hinge the top now and work on the lower section until it fits
in the canopy? I was thinking if I could barely sand enough to get the top
hinges in, I could remove the canopy and install the overhead and blend it
then permenantly mount the canopy and final fit the doors. Does this sound
logical? A lot of weird sequencing here and thats not including paint!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Sean,
Regardless of the door handles, I'd like to enter my vote as to
you being crazy. Definitely a "Yeah" vote to that one.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
definitely do not archive
Seano wrote:
> Speaking of doors......I am installing mine at this time. After reading a
> lot of write ups on the doors my father and I have been looking at a third
> pin for my doors. I have been building the plane in my father's machine
> shop. I told him about the doors coming open in flight and he has worked
> on several different ways to make a third pin or latch that actuates with
> the stock handle. He has been successful making some test models that
> would work. So as time went on we have had the opportunity to look at
> Scott's RV. Scott has done a beautiful job with his plane and made the
> doors work like they are supposed to. He also installed the prox.
> switches to show the doors are fully latched. After my dad and I went out
> to Scott's hangar and on a few flights with Scott we decided that it is
> not necessary to make the third pin. If the door is not latched, the
> light is still on. Pretty simple. Now if my doors don't come out as good
> as Scott's did, I may add one. One good thing about the stock door
> handles are the locking mechanism on the handle to avoid inadvertant
> opening. I notice after market latches don't have this lock but look a
> lot nicer than Van's. Robin came up with a fix for this also.
> If builders and flyers out there think I'm crazy and I should make the
> third pin please tell me why. I am looking for a reason to build these.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- .
> *From:* Roxanne and Mike Lefever <mailto:roxianmike@msn.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:38 PM
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
>
> Yes i recall. I am considering attaching it to the existing push rod
> so it would open from the outside with the existing mechanism. Just
> am hoping someone smarter than I has already done the design.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
> From: ricksked@cox.net <mailto:ricksked@cox.net>
> Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 01:47:38 +0000
>
> Mike,
>
> There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice center latch, I
> will need to check my RV photos to see if I still have them. It was
> a spring loaded latch with a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone
> tore it up(surprise) because you could not open from the outside in
> an emergency
>
> Rick Sked
> N246RS Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From: *Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com>
> *Date: *Sun, 3 Jan 2010 18:33:34 -0700
> *To: *<rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject: *RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
>
> Has anyone added an additional latching mechanism =3Bat the bottom
> of&n= bsp=3Btheir doors. =3B As I am finishing my door latches I am
> consideri= ng adding an '"L" shaped catch in the bottom of the door
> (inserted into the= =3Bbottom door =3Bframe/fuse) =3Bthat would
> move aft (attached= to the aft rod) through a slot and provide
> assurance that the door can not= move upward=2C both to improve fit
> and for safety against door opening.&nb= sp=3B Any thoughts on this?
>
> *
>
>
> 3D============================================
>
> 3D============================================
>
> 3D============================================
>
> 3D============================================
>
> *
>
> ){l7g(M4{pz.'==============================4yuIQh
>
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>
> *
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 2
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| Subject: | FS: RV-10 tail kit |
I'm giving up on the dream of building a -10. Not enough time/motivation,
plus I think you can buy more plane for your money with used certified
aircraft right now in this market.
If anybody knows of anyone who is interested in buying a few year old,
unstarted tail kit that is still in the crate, let me know. It is in
Oklahoma City.
do not archive
--
Eric
Message 3
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| Subject: | FW: Z-14 Switch Combos |
Phil,
I suspect you have more questions but short story is that there is no switc
h setting on a Z-14 configuration that will "fry" anything. We can discuss
when you call.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Z-14 Switch Combos
Greetings,
I sent this to the aeroelectric list, but I'm not surprised that it went un
answered. That being said, THANKS to the RV-10 flyers and builders for the
ir assistance. One of the great things about this list is the flyers still
stick around!
For those of you who employed Z-14 (Dual Alt/Dual Battery) what have you ex
perienced with your contactor switch settings? I'd hate to make one wrong
flip of a switch and fry a G430. I know Bob Condrey and Rick are using th
is setup. Bill "flying soon" Watson will be using it eventually too.
Thanks,
Phil
From: Perry, Phil
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 9:09 PM
Subject: Z-14 Switch Combos
I'm getting a handle on Z-14 from an operational perspective and have a cou
ple of questions about the switch combinations that could create issues.
Obviously with the added complexity of managing two batteries, two alternat
ors, and a cross feed can create some interesting combinations.
Are there any combo's that we should be aware of that would create over vol
tage or any other scenarios of concern?
In the event of a failure (for example Alt 2 failure), is there a specific
order for shutting off the bad alt and then enabling the cross feed?
Thanks,
Phil
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: FS: RV-10 tail kit |
Are selling tools as well? I'll be interested in those tools if you have em.
Quoting Eric Ekberg <etekberg@gmail.com>:
> I'm giving up on the dream of building a -10. Not enough time/motivation,
> plus I think you can buy more plane for your money with used certified
> aircraft right now in this market.
>
> If anybody knows of anyone who is interested in buying a few year old,
> unstarted tail kit that is still in the crate, let me know. It is in
> Oklahoma City.
>
> do not archive
> --
> Eric
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: FS: RV-10 tail kit |
Eric, how much are u asking? Jay Samonsky
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Ekberg <etekberg@gmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: FS: RV-10 tail kit
I'm giving up on the dream of building a -10. Not enough time/motivation,
plus I think you can buy more plane for your money with used certified
aircraft right now in this market.
If anybody knows of anyone who is interested in buying a few year old,
unstarted tail kit that is still in the crate, let me know. It is in
Oklahoma City.
do not archive
--
Eric
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: additional latch for 10 doors |
There are some important factors for the door mechanism:
Lightweight
Emergency exit - if the plane is on fire you want the pax to easily open
the door
Strong - there is some mechanical leverage on the main handle
Ease of use for passengers to close the doors without a long explanation
on how they work - part of the breifing
Be maintainable
The third pin we designed is a little heavy. It would add a little
weight to the doors and might require a stronger gas strut. It is also
expensive. It would cost about 200 bucks for materials alone from Vans'
price sheet do fit both doors.
----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Marks
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 10:29 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Thanks Sean,
I would not call my patch a =9Cfix=9D but
rather =9Canother thing to get in the way of inadvertent
unlatching.=9D My =9Cadd on=9D gives me much greater
security but they are not the solution. I think the third pin concept
has a lot of merit and I saw someone=99s design that seemed like a
slam dunk with minor redesign to the pivoting part of the handle (lousy
description). HOWEVER the "Staniforth latch" solves a problem the third
pin can never solve. Inadvertent unlatching. There is mechanism failure
and inadvertent unlatching I bet the WHOOPS especially from the PAX side
is a real possibility. If someone accidently unlatches
that=99s goodbye gull wing. I guess I have to give a shout out to
Jessie=99s strap, that will hold the door in place too and
probably the easiest retrofit. That is why I like the Staniforth latch.
Problem solved. Thanks for the write up Andre.
My non-solution, solution.
Note: these same mechanisms with the latch handle in the proper
orientation (arm pointing out) are an accident waiting to happen by just
catching on a sleeve. Turned pointing in reduces the chances
significantly. Adding the leaver lock gets you even further down the
road.
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:00 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Speaking of doors......I am installing mine at this time. After
reading a lot of write ups on the doors my father and I have been
looking at a third pin for my doors. I have been building the plane in
my father's machine shop. I told him about the doors coming open in
flight and he has worked on several different ways to make a third pin
or latch that actuates with the stock handle. He has been successful
making some test models that would work. So as time went on we have had
the opportunity to look at Scott's RV. Scott has done a beautiful job
with his plane and made the doors work like they are supposed to. He
also installed the prox. switches to show the doors are fully latched.
After my dad and I went out to Scott's hangar and on a few flights with
Scott we decided that it is not necessary to make the third pin. If the
door is not latched, the light is still on. Pretty simple. Now if my
doors don't come out as good as Scott's did, I may add one. One good
thing about the stock door handles are the locking mechanism on the
handle to avoid inadvertant opening. I notice after market latches
don't have this lock but look a lot nicer than Van's. Robin came up
with a fix for this also.
If builders and flyers out there think I'm crazy and I should make the
third pin please tell me why. I am looking for a reason to build these.
----- Original Message ----- .
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:38 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Yes i recall. I am considering attaching it to the existing push rod
so it would open from the outside with the existing mechanism. Just am
hoping someone smarter than I has already done the design.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
From: ricksked@cox.net
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 01:47:38 +0000
Mike,
There was a builder in Oz who made a really nice center latch, I
will need to check my RV photos to see if I still have them. It was a
spring loaded latch with a small lift arm inside...IIRC everyone tore it
up(surprise) because you could not open from the outside in an emergency
Rick Sked
N246RS Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 18:33:34 -0700
To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV10-List: additional latch for 10 doors
Has anyone added an additional latching mechanism =3Bat the bottom
of&n= bsp=3Btheir doors. =3B As I am finishing my door latches I
am consideri= ng adding an '"L" shaped catch in the bottom of the door
(inserted into the= =3Bbottom door =3Bframe/fuse) =3Bthat would
move aft (attached= to the aft rod) through a slot and provide
assurance that the door can not= move upward=2C both to improve fit
and for safety against door opening.&nb= sp=3B Any thoughts on this?
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Message 7
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| Subject: | FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal |
I left a small extension on the cowl inlet that fits inside of a short
length of SCAT tube. The SCAT tube is inserted into a recess built into the
filtered air box. There are two fingers attached to the outside of the FAB
that hold the SCAT tube in a retracted position while the bottom cowl is
raised into position. After the cowl is positioned the fingers are pushed
aside and that allows the SCAT tube to spring forward around the cowl inlet
extension. Since I have a 3 blade prop the bottom cowl must be raised
straight up into position. This works well for me.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: FAB - Filtered Air Box Intake Plenum/ interface seal |
I'm not sure what the plans call for in the way of a seal, but The James
cowl/plenum uses neoprene cylinders to bridge the gap between the cowl
and the plenum. I also used this same method to bridge the gap between
the induction air cowl intake and the Rod Bowers Ram/Filtered air.
Seeing this thread makes e wonder if it would also work in this application.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Final%20Assembly/slides/DSC07042.html
It's flexible enough to not interfere with the removal/install of the
lower cowl. While installation of the cowl ususllay results in a 'kink'
in the cylinder, I can reach in from the front of the cowl with my
fingers and easily get the neoprene to slip over the air canister.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> What some have done is leave a bigger gap and use a thicker seal material to
bridge the gap. The main loss would be a little of the ram air effect on Manifold
Pressure. I've heard this is mainly an issue at altitude.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Jan 3, 2010, at 8:18 PM, AirMike wrote:
>
>
>>
>> It is a real pain to install/remove the cowl with the baffle interface seal
on the FAB. I know at least one RV10 builder who has eliminated the baffle seal
material at the interface. In discussing this problem with another builder,
I was wondering if any builder has come up with a unique solution to this problem
or the technical ramifications of leaving the seal material off.
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '10 or Bust
>> Q/B - testing phase 1
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279960#279960
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 9
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I used the insert that Bob (TCW) sells:
http://tcwtech.com/RV-10-construction-project.htm
One change is I drilled the holes in the steps and mounts to 1/4 and in the
insert to 5/16 to enable the use of an AN4 bolt. They're rock solid now.
-Rob
On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 2:12 PM, <jfrjr@roadrunner.com> wrote:
>
> I still have not flown (DAR tomorrow then wait for runway(s) to de-ice) and
> already my pilotside step is a little loose. I remember that TCW had
> machined an insert that they said worked well. Are those commercially
> avialable or are there any other "fixes" out there. I did construct access
> panels so I can get to those pesky AN-3 bolts. Jay Rowe
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 10
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Back (way back) when I was planning my panel I remember logging on to a blog or
users group for Grand Rapids Tech. products. Now that I am ready to fly (waiting
for de-iced runways) I am updating the EFIS screens and, of course, am having
the usual difficulties. Does anyone know of such a users group and is it
still active or any site that gives/shares advice? Jay Rowe
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: FS: RV-10 tail kit |
I'm asking $3150, but if that doesn't fly I'll be taking best offer. I
think Van's price is $3500.
On Mon, Jan 4, 2010 at 11:10 AM, <jss165@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Eric, how much are u asking? Jay Samonsky
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> ------------------------------
> *From: * Eric Ekberg <etekberg@gmail.com>
> *Date: *Mon, 4 Jan 2010 08:11:14 -0600
> *To: *<rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject: *RV10-List: FS: RV-10 tail kit
>
> I'm giving up on the dream of building a -10.- Not enough time/motiva
> tion, plus I think you can buy more plane for your money with used certifie
> d aircraft right now in this market.
>
> If anybody knows of anyone who = is interested in buying a few year old,
> unstarted tail kit that is still in= the crate, let me know.- It is in
> Oklahoma City.
>
> do not archive
> --
> Eric
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: additional latch for 10 doors |
There is a modification to the Staniforth or Oz latch that will be available very
soon from a reliable source. It can be opened from the outside. As a beta tester
I just finished installing them on my doors, and I think builders are going
to find them a good solution. It took about 8-10 hours to fabricate the parts
and install in both doors. No problem retrofitting the latches to finished
and painted doors. I have been sworn to secrecy for another 1-2 weeks, so please
don't ask for more info at this time.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280080#280080
Message 13
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You can try...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
Also, there is some info at Vans Air Force, glass panel forum.....
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jfrjr@roadrunner.com
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: grt users group
Back (way back) when I was planning my panel I remember logging on to a blog or
users group for Grand Rapids Tech. products. Now that I am ready to fly (waiting
for de-iced runways) I am updating the EFIS screens and, of course, am having
the usual difficulties. Does anyone know of such a users group and is it
still active or any site that gives/shares advice? Jay Rowe
Message 14
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There is a Yahoo GRT list.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/?yguid=327154950
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jfrjr@roadrunner.com
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 1:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: grt users group
Back (way back) when I was planning my panel I remember logging on to a blog or
users group for Grand Rapids Tech. products. Now that I am ready to fly (waiting
for de-iced runways) I am updating the EFIS screens and, of course, am having
the usual difficulties. Does anyone know of such a users group and is it
still active or any site that gives/shares advice? Jay Rowe
Message 15
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It is in yahoo.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jfrjr@roadrunner.com
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: grt users group
Back (way back) when I was planning my panel I remember logging on to a blog
or users group for Grand Rapids Tech. products. Now that I am ready to fly
(waiting for de-iced runways) I am updating the EFIS screens and, of course,
am having the usual difficulties. Does anyone know of such a users group and
is it still active or any site that gives/shares advice? Jay Rowe
Message 16
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| Subject: | 90 degree drills |
I too have this same drill worth the cost and is very easy to control the
speed of the drill.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution ProviderFrom:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 2:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 90 degree drills
Love this one of mine.
http://store-planetools.com/angledrill--2800rpmfor14-28threadedbits.aspx
----- Original Message -----
From: Perry, Phil <mailto:Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 11:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 90 degree drills
On the topic of tools..........
Anyone have a 90 degree drill that they're absolutely in love with?
The Sioux is $445.
I see some imports (Taylor) for $250ish.
Then some others for $200.
Anyone have any special feelings for their drill? (Easy Mr. Sked) J
Phil
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 17
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OK here is my 2 cents worth again and yes the A&P hat is on. ALL FLUID LINES
UNDER THE COWL NEED TO BE FIRE SLEEVED NO MATTER IF THERE RUBBER OR TEFLON
LINES.
This is a very BIG Safety issue. I have seen several fires on plane engine
compartments on receps and turbines, it is not a pretty site at all. They
usually always include an offsite landing that causes the plane to get
trashed in the process. And the fire was caused by lines never getting
replaces at over haul or 5 years for rubber hoses.
My butt is worth more than a few bucks, then not to make sure all fluid
lines are not protected and the best lines available. Your butt relies on
it.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 11:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: FWF hoses
Between the hoses that Vans now provides in the FWF kit, and the hoses that
Aerosport Power sent with my engine, the Manifold pressure line and the line
to the oil pressure sender are the only ones not firesleeved. While the MP
line doesn't need it, the oil pressure sender line may get firesleeved down
the road when I replace lines, but at this point I am leaving it as is. ALL
fuel and oil cooler hoses are fire sleeved.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279912#279912
Message 18
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| Subject: | AMSAFE rotary belts |
If anyone is considering the use of the AMSAFE rotary belts for their RV10
you might want to visit the <http://www.inertialbelts.com>
www.inertialbelts.com site. AMSAFE has raised their prices to me another 5%
and indicated that any order place before 1/31/2010 will still receive the
2009 price. I will be adjusting prices on the website by 1/31/2010.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: AMSAFE rotary belts |
Is there a reason we cannot use the 3/8" hole in the inertial real mounting frame
to secure the real to the RV-10 canopy using the Van's supplied bolt? Our
fuselage is painted and complete in that area. We are now in the market for our
belts and would like the front occupants to have inertial reals.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280128#280128
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: grt users group |
Try Carlos at GRT. You can't find a better customer service company.
Do not archive
On Mon, Jan 4, 2010 at 2:16 PM, DLM <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
>
> It is in yahoo.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> jfrjr@roadrunner.com
> Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:51 AM
> To: Matronics RV-10 list
> Subject: RV10-List: grt users group
>
>
> Back (way back) when I was planning my panel I remember logging on to a blog
> or users group for Grand Rapids Tech. products. Now that I am ready to fly
> (waiting for de-iced runways) I am updating the EFIS screens and, of course,
> am having the usual difficulties. Does anyone know of such a users group and
> is it still active or any site that gives/shares advice? Jay Rowe
>
>
--
Rob Kermanj
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: AMSAFE rotary belts |
Check the archives, there were conversations about this exact subject in the past.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron B.
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 6:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: AMSAFE rotary belts
Is there a reason we cannot use the 3/8" hole in the inertial real mounting frame
to secure the real to the RV-10 canopy using the Van's supplied bolt? Our
fuselage is painted and complete in that area. We are now in the market for our
belts and would like the front occupants to have inertial reals.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280128#280128
Message 22
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Well said!
grumpy
On Jan 4, 2010, at 3:06 PM, John Cumins wrote:
>
> OK here is my 2 cents worth again and yes the A&P hat is on. ALL
> FLUID LINES
> UNDER THE COWL NEED TO BE FIRE SLEEVED NO MATTER IF THERE RUBBER OR
> TEFLON
> LINES.
>
> This is a very BIG Safety issue. I have seen several fires on plane
> engine
> compartments on receps and turbines, it is not a pretty site at
> all. They
> usually always include an offsite landing that causes the plane to get
> trashed in the process. And the fire was caused by lines never
> getting
> replaces at over haul or 5 years for rubber hoses.
>
> My butt is worth more than a few bucks, then not to make sure all
> fluid
> lines are not protected and the best lines available. Your butt
> relies on
> it.
>
> John G. Cumins
> President
>
> JC'S Interactive Systems
> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
> Fairfield Ca 94533
> 707-425-7100
> 707-425-7576 Fax
>
> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
> Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 11:35 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: FWF hoses
>
>
> Between the hoses that Vans now provides in the FWF kit, and the
> hoses that
> Aerosport Power sent with my engine, the Manifold pressure line and
> the line
> to the oil pressure sender are the only ones not firesleeved. While
> the MP
> line doesn't need it, the oil pressure sender line may get
> firesleeved down
> the road when I replace lines, but at this point I am leaving it as
> is. ALL
> fuel and oil cooler hoses are fire sleeved.
>
> Eric Kallio
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279912#279912
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: AMSAFE rotary belts |
The bolt or nut in the inside would interfere with the rotary wheel; that
was the reason for designing the block so that the internal fasteners would
be flush with the bracket and that the external side did not hve screw
thread and nuts externally.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron B.
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 5:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: AMSAFE rotary belts
Is there a reason we cannot use the 3/8" hole in the inertial real mounting
frame to secure the real to the RV-10 canopy using the Van's supplied bolt?
Our fuselage is painted and complete in that area. We are now in the market
for our belts and would like the front occupants to have inertial reals.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280128#280128
Message 24
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The integral firesleeve hoses are the easiest way to accomplish this,
because they have none of the inconveniences of external firesleeve,
most if not all have teflon core, making them last at least as long as
the engine TBO. IIRC William Curtis has a list of all the hoses with
lengths and fittings on his website, so even ordering is easy. Of
course if Vans is supplying some of the hoses integral firesleeve,
that reduces the number you have to get from other sources.
And yes, I agree with John, you want any hose that carries flammable
liquids in front of the firewall to be firesleeve protected one way or
another.
On Mon, Jan 4, 2010 at 2:06 PM, John Cumins <jcumins@jcis.net> wrote:
> My butt is worth more than a few bucks, then not to make sure all fluid
> lines are not protected and the best lines available. Your butt relies on
> it.
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