Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 11:39 AM - OOPS!! What have I done??? (Bill and Tami Britton)
2. 11:52 AM - Re: Overhead console configuration (Strasnuts)
3. 11:53 AM - Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? (Strasnuts)
4. 11:59 AM - Can I use this? (JHearnsberger)
5. 12:27 PM - Re: Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? (Bill and Tami Britton)
6. 12:27 PM - Re: Can I use this? (Dj Merrill)
7. 12:29 PM - Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? (tsts4)
8. 12:36 PM - Re: Can I use this? (Perry, Phil)
9. 12:54 PM - Re: Can I use this? (Perry, Phil)
10. 12:54 PM - Re: Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? (Seano)
11. 01:01 PM - Re: Can I use this? (Carl Froehlich)
12. 01:15 PM - Re: Can I use this? (Dj Merrill)
13. 01:15 PM - Re: Can I use this? (John Cumins)
14. 01:40 PM - Re: Can I use this? (Don McDonald)
15. 03:07 PM - Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? (Eric_Kallio)
16. 03:15 PM - Re: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation (David Shelton)
17. 03:50 PM - Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? (John Gonzalez)
18. 08:00 PM - Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? (Stein Bruch)
19. 08:01 PM - Re: Re: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation (John Gonzalez)
20. 08:03 PM - Re: Can I use this? (Perry, Phil)
21. 08:05 PM - Re: AMSAFE inflatable belts (2369488)
22. 08:30 PM - headliner finishing (rvdave)
23. 08:41 PM - Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
24. 08:41 PM - Re: headliner finishing (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
25. 09:10 PM - RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl (Dan Charrois)
26. 09:33 PM - Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? (Ron McGann)
27. 09:53 PM - Re: Can I use this? (Bob Turner)
28. 10:07 PM - Re: Re: Can I use this? (Perry, Phil)
29. 10:12 PM - Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl (Deems Davis)
30. 10:58 PM - Getting nose wheel fairing on and off (Jae Chang)
Message 1
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| Subject: | OOPS!! What have I done??? |
I think I might have messed up pretty good this time. Working on the
wings on pages 14-5 or 14-6 we are to rivet the forward most hole on the
flanges of the inboard most 7 W-1011 L,R ribs. While doing this I had a
less than acceptable rivet so I drilled it out. When removing the shop
head (via punch/small mallet) I managed to push the rib flange away from
the spar flange a little. So, this is where I hopefully learn my
lesson, I tape the jaws of a pliers up to prevent scratching the
spar/rib. I easily squeeze the pliers on the flange and it nicely pulls
it back into place. However, I realize when I 'm done that the
"cutters" on the pliers nipped the edge of the spar flange. Left a nice
little "cut" on the edge of the spar flange (top flange--didn't count
exactly where it was but outboard about 6 or 7 ribs from the inboard
most rib). Lesson here--don't use pliers on aluminum--I know now.
Question--pics are attached--before I contact Vans does anybody have any
suggestions/advice. Did I ruin the wing spar?? Do I leave it alone?
Do I file it smooth and leave it? Do I use a scotchbrite wheel and
remove a smooth "notch" section to get rid of it? The "nip" is
somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8 inch long.
Any suggestions appreciated other than telling me how stupid I am for
doing it. I have learned my lesson.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
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| Subject: | Re: Overhead console configuration |
Gluing on the overhead console. I went overboard with the weights even though
the console fits good on the canopy.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280551#280551
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05530_204.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05529_164.jpg
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| Subject: | Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? |
Have you called Van's to see what they say?
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280552#280552
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Can I use rust-oleum automotive primer? I understand that everyone has opinions
and primer preferences. I just want to know if this will do the job and hold
up.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280553#280553
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/auto_710.jpg
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| Subject: | Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? |
Yes, did it right after I posted it on here. Decided I couldn't wait.
Basically, Scott said it wasn't a big deal. The flange on the main wing
spar doesn't provide much structural support--mainly an attach point for the
skins. He recommended I use a scotch-brite wheel and remove the "nip" . As
long as I retain the minimum edge clearance on the hole it's not a big deal.
That being said, I immediately went out and fixed it. Now all I need to do
is put a little primer over where I removed the alodine finish. There's a
spot along the rear edge of the spar flange now about 1/4" long and maybe
1/8" max depth where I ground it out and smoothed/cleaned it.
Another one of those WHEW!!! moments. What was I thinking??? Oh well, it's
fixed.
Thanks,
Bill
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Strasnuts" <sean@braunandco.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 1:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: OOPS!! What have I done???
>
> Have you called Van's to see what they say?
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280552#280552
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01:35:00
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
On 01/07/2010 02:57 PM, JHearnsberger wrote:
>
> Can I use rust-oleum automotive primer? I understand that everyone has opinions
and primer preferences. I just want to know if this will do the job and hold
up.
>
I'm using an automotive primer, which might be similar to what you are
asking about. So far, so good. I have 4+ year old parts with it on it
and it seems to be holding up okay. Still building, though. I've found
that you need to let it sit at least a couple of days to let it harden
enough to work with the pieces after priming, otherwise it can scratch
easily. Of course, it is just as easy to put a squirt over it once
you've done to cover up any marks you might have made on it while
riveting, etc.
You can get it from two sources (same product, branded two ways):
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=988>
<http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=MSR7220_0006419503>
fyi
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? |
Yep, call Van's. However, my guess is you'll be OK. I think the fix would be
something along the lines of stop drilling the "cut" and the filing it smooth,
possibly to the point of making a notch similar to what we all did back on the
tailcone longerons. But don't do anything until talking to Van's.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280562#280562
Message 8
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I'm using it only with Alodine underneath. The product doesn't have any
chromates to prevent corrosion, so it basically serves as an barrier
between metal surfaces and moisture/air. I'd like to treat the aluminum
with a preventative chemical, so that's the reason I alodine underneath.
Generally speaking though, I'm using a higher-end primer (Dupont
Variprime). I only use the Alodine/Rust-oleum combo on pieces that are
too small to justify a batch of Variprime and the effort to clean
everything up.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: JHearnsberger [mailto:jakehearnsberger@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 1:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Can I use this?
<jakehearnsberger@gmail.com>
Can I use rust-oleum automotive primer? I understand that everyone has
opinions and primer preferences. I just want to know if this will do the
job and hold up.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280553#280553
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/auto_710.jpg
Message 9
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Hey DJ..
Try sitting the pieces in front of a space heater. No need to get them
hot, just warm for a while.
It'll setup quickly and be hard as nails. Then you can build on.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dj Merrill [mailto:deej@deej.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Can I use this?
On 01/07/2010 02:57 PM, JHearnsberger wrote:
<jakehearnsberger@gmail.com>
>
> Can I use rust-oleum automotive primer? I understand that everyone has
opinions and primer preferences. I just want to know if this will do the
job and hold up.
>
I'm using an automotive primer, which might be similar to what
you are
asking about. So far, so good. I have 4+ year old parts with it on it
and it seems to be holding up okay. Still building, though. I've found
that you need to let it sit at least a couple of days to let it harden
enough to work with the pieces after priming, otherwise it can scratch
easily. Of course, it is just as easy to put a squirt over it once
you've done to cover up any marks you might have made on it while
riveting, etc.
You can get it from two sources (same product, branded two
ways):
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=988
>
<http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=MSR7220_0006419503>
fyi
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? |
Glad to hear it. I didn't know.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 7, 2010, at 13:19, "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
wrote:
> >
>
> Yes, did it right after I posted it on here. Decided I couldn't wait.
>
> Basically, Scott said it wasn't a big deal. The flange on the main
> wing spar doesn't provide much structural support--mainly an attach
> point for the skins. He recommended I use a scotch-brite wheel and
> remove the "nip" . As long as I retain the minimum edge clearance
> on the hole it's not a big deal.
>
> That being said, I immediately went out and fixed it. Now all I
> need to do is put a little primer over where I removed the alodine
> finish. There's a spot along the rear edge of the spar flange now
> about 1/4" long and maybe 1/8" max depth where I ground it out and
> smoothed/cleaned it.
>
> Another one of those WHEW!!! moments. What was I thinking??? Oh
> well, it's fixed.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> Bill
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Strasnuts" <sean@braunandco.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 1:52 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: OOPS!! What have I done???
>
>
>>
>> Have you called Van's to see what they say?
>>
>> --------
>> Cust. #40936
>> RV-10 SB Fuselage
>> N801VR reserved
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280552#280552
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ---
> ---
> ---
> ---
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 01:35:00
>
>
Message 11
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Any primer is better than no primer, but I think you will be disappointed
with a non-sealing primer like the one you suggest.
Considering the prep is the same, and is the majority of the work, why not
use something worthwhile? A quality epoxy primer like PPG DP40LF is
exceptionally durable and easy for the amateur painter. It is widely
available at automotive paint suppliers.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (525 hrs)
RV-10 (systems)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JHearnsberger
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 2:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Can I use this?
<jakehearnsberger@gmail.com>
Can I use rust-oleum automotive primer? I understand that everyone has
opinions and primer preferences. I just want to know if this will do the job
and hold up.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280553#280553
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/auto_710.jpg
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
On 01/07/2010 03:47 PM, Perry, Phil wrote:
> Try sitting the pieces in front of a space heater. No need to get them
> hot, just warm for a while.
Thanks! Nice tip.
I don't yet have heat in my shop, but I'm almost finished with
installing a propane heating system. It is mounted, vented, and wired,
and now I just need to get the propane company out to install the
propane lines and tank, and then check everything. Hopefully soon! It
gets slightly chilly here in Maine this time of year... ;-)
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
Message 13
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You want to use a acid etching primer unless you want to acid etch first
them alodine then prime. Napa has a Acid Etching primer that is in rattle
can and works well. There are numerous ones on the market I went with the
Napa one and it works just fine.
John G. Cumins
40864
Emp in priming mode and yes I won the primer war
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JHearnsberger
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 11:57 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Can I use this?
<jakehearnsberger@gmail.com>
Can I use rust-oleum automotive primer? I understand that everyone has
opinions and primer preferences. I just want to know if this will do the job
and hold up.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280553#280553
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/auto_710.jpg
Message 14
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Bottom line:- Don't sweat it, almost anything is better than nothing... a
nd if you keep the plane inside the vast majority of the time,,,, nothing i
s just fine.- Unless, of course, you want your son to be able to give the
plane to his son.
Don McDonald
--- On Thu, 1/7/10, Perry, Phil <Phil.Perry@netapp.com> wrote:
From: Perry, Phil <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Can I use this?
Hey DJ..
Try sitting the pieces in front of a space heater.- No need to get them
hot, just warm for a while.
It'll setup quickly and be hard as nails.- Then you can build on.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dj Merrill [mailto:deej@deej.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Can I use this?
On 01/07/2010 02:57 PM, JHearnsberger wrote:
<jakehearnsberger@gmail.com>
>
> Can I use rust-oleum automotive primer? I understand that everyone has
opinions and primer preferences. I just want to know if this will do the
job and hold up.
>
--- I'm using an automotive primer, which might be similar to what
you are
asking about.- So far, so good.- I have 4+ year old parts with it on it
and it seems to be holding up okay.- Still building, though.- I've foun
d
that you need to let it sit at least a couple of days to let it harden
enough to work with the pieces after priming, otherwise it can scratch
easily.- Of course, it is just as easy to put a squirt over it once
you've done to cover up any marks you might have made on it while
riveting, etc.
--- You can get it from two sources (same product, branded two
ways):
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=988
>
<http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=MSR7220_0006419503>
fyi
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
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| Subject: | Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? |
Looking at the pics it didn't look too deep. Glad Vans didn't see an issue with
it. One suggestion would be to stop drill the gouge if it isn't all buffed out.
You don't want a crack to develop which wraps around to the front of the spar.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280588#280588
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| Subject: | Re: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation |
Scott is correct that motorcycle and GA have similar fatality rates. I checked
statistics from the NTSB and NHTSA and found that motorcycles are actually a little
safer than GA on an hourly basis.
General Aviation: 1.427 fatalities per 100,000 hours (http://www.ntsb.gov/aviation/Table10.htm).
Motorcycles: 0.94 fatalities per 100,000 hours (http://www-nrd.nhtsa.dot.gov/Pubs/809908.PDF)
*The nhtsa listed the motorcycle fatality rate as 26.8 fatalities per 100 million
miles. I converted the units to hours, using the DOT average automobile speed
of 35mph. 26.8 fatalities per 100 million miles = 26.8 fatalities per 2.857
million hours (100 million miles divided by 35mph) = 0.94 fatalities per 100,000
hours.
The truth is that both activities are dangerous and we need to be careful when
in an airplane or on a motorcycle. A lot of pilots have motorcycles (19.4% according
to AOPA readership survey) and they aren't any more crazy than the ones
who are terrified of them.
Believe it or not, but I'm not a motorcycle enthusiast. I don't have a favorite
bike and I don't own a riding magazine, poster or calendar. I don't belong to
a riding club and rarely ride for fun. Heck, I prefer to drive my Chevy Astro
when it's available. I started riding motorcycles because my airplane doesn't
drive to my favorite restaurant, beach, state park, convention, museum or friends
house. I carry a motorcycle in my composite belly pod so I can land at any
little airport in the world and hit the roads in about 2 minutes... problem
solved!
I've got all the freedom and utility of a roadable airplane and my vehicle combination
takes me anywhere I please. I don't have to find airports with rental
cars, compare rates or make a reservation. I don't have to arrive during business
hours or top off the tank on my way back. I can ride into town on a whim or
try a new restaurant during my fuel stop. Every landing is another opportunity
to explore and enjoy local sites.
I'm not a motorcycle fan but I love flying and I've found plenty of reasons to
bring a bike along. -David
PS - I love that pic of your son in the drink!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280589#280589
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/bikeinpod_508.jpg
Message 17
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| Subject: | OOPS!! What have I done??? |
Now that you have polished it up=2C you could either prime it or better=2C
put a gob of proseal or other flexible bonding medium between the skin and
the spar flange when riveting. This will be your corrosion inhibitor. The s
par is not alodined=2C it is anodized. Two different processes.
There is no way the skin with the rivet holes in their locations would impa
rt enought strain into that flange to start a tear in the spar flange.Basic
ally=2C that flange is a tie in point for the skin just like Vans said=2C t
he spar is a stout piece of metal and it would need to twist so much before
the that crack started that if it did=2C the wing skins would look like a
stepped on aluminum can and the plane would have already hit the ground.
Remember aluminum planes flew with bullet holes in them.
Great to be safe but this look like a very small BOO BOo. Ease your mind.
John G
Do Not Archive
From: william@gbta.net
Subject: RV10-List: OOPS!! What have I done???
I think I might have messed up pretty good this time. Working on the wings
on pages 14-5 or 14-6 we are to rivet the forward most hole on the flanges
of the inboard most 7 W-1011 L=2CR ribs. While doing this I had a less th
an acceptable rivet so I drilled it out. When removing the shop head (via
punch/small mallet) I managed to push the rib flange away from the spar fla
nge a little. So=2C this is where I hopefully learn my lesson=2C I tape th
e jaws of a pliers up to prevent scratching the spar/rib. I easily squeeze
the pliers on the flange and it nicely pulls it back into place. However
=2C I realize when I 'm done that the "cutters" on the pliers nipped the ed
ge of the spar flange. Left a nice little "cut" on the edge of the spar fl
ange (top flange--didn't count exactly where it was but outboard about 6 or
7 ribs from the inboard most rib). Lesson here--don't use pliers on alumi
num--I know now. Question--pics are attached--before I contact Vans does a
nybody have any suggestions/advice. Did I ruin the wing spar?? Do I leave
it alone? Do I file it smooth and leave it? Do I use a scotchbrite wheel
and remove a smooth "notch" section to get rid of it? The "nip" is somewh
ere between 1/16 and 1/8 inch long.
Any suggestions appreciated other than telling me how stupid I am for doing
it. I have learned my lesson.
Thanks in advance=2C
Bill
Message 18
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| Subject: | OOPS!! What have I done??? |
Hi Bill,
I can't comment too much on the fixing, but I can give another "lesson
learned" to your issue. I don't know what Van's is going to say. Worse
case is you put a doubler on it and go about your day but I'm guessing you
won't need to do that.
Anyway, Next time when removing the rivet from an area like (and there will
be a next time) that put the corner/edge of a bucking bar beside the rivet
tail that you're going to knock out. Many times with thin pieces of
aluminum like that, the rivet will have grown in the hole on both sides of
it, so simply punching it out without backing will result in deformed metal
- as you've seen. Placing a bucking bar or other heavy piece of metal
beside the rivet tail when driving it out makes it both easier, cleaner and
stops deformation.
My 2 cents as usual.
Cheers,
Stein
Stein Bruch
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 12:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OOPS!! What have I done???
I think I might have messed up pretty good this time. Working on the wings
on pages 14-5 or 14-6 we are to rivet the forward most hole on the flanges
of the inboard most 7 W-1011 L,R ribs. While doing this I had a less than
acceptable rivet so I drilled it out. When removing the shop head (via
punch/small mallet) I managed to push the rib flange away from the spar
flange a little. So, this is where I hopefully learn my lesson, I tape the
jaws of a pliers up to prevent scratching the spar/rib. I easily squeeze
the pliers on the flange and it nicely pulls it back into place. However, I
realize when I 'm done that the "cutters" on the pliers nipped the edge of
the spar flange. Left a nice little "cut" on the edge of the spar flange
(top flange--didn't count exactly where it was but outboard about 6 or 7
ribs from the inboard most rib). Lesson here--don't use pliers on
aluminum--I know now. Question--pics are attached--before I contact Vans
does anybody have any suggestions/advice. Did I ruin the wing spar?? Do I
leave it alone? Do I file it smooth and leave it? Do I use a scotchbrite
wheel and remove a smooth "notch" section to get rid of it? The "nip" is
somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8 inch long.
Any suggestions appreciated other than telling me how stupid I am for doing
it. I have learned my lesson.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation |
I see that you are a statistics guy and that makes good sense=2C but the on
e thing you have not confessed to us is that you are required to wear a hel
met when on a motorcycle and because of that=2C your ultimate goal is to ha
ve an excuss to wear that fighter pilot helmet in your plane and also while
on your motorcycle.
Confess!
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Confirmed: Enterprise Rent-A-Car Reservation
> From: SBaircraft@yahoo.com
> Date: Thu=2C 7 Jan 2010 15:11:43 -0800
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Scott is correct that motorcycle and GA have similar fatality rates. I ch
ecked statistics from the NTSB and NHTSA and found that motorcycles are act
ually a little safer than GA on an hourly basis.
>
> General Aviation: 1.427 fatalities per 100=2C000 hours (http://www.ntsb.g
ov/aviation/Table10.htm).
>
> Motorcycles: 0.94 fatalities per 100=2C000 hours (http://www-nrd.nhtsa.do
t.gov/Pubs/809908.PDF)
>
> *The nhtsa listed the motorcycle fatality rate as 26.8 fatalities per 100
million miles. I converted the units to hours=2C using the DOT average aut
omobile speed of 35mph. 26.8 fatalities per 100 million miles = 26.8 fata
lities per 2.857 million hours (100 million miles divided by 35mph) = 0.9
4 fatalities per 100=2C000 hours.
>
> The truth is that both activities are dangerous and we need to be careful
when in an airplane or on a motorcycle. A lot of pilots have motorcycles (
19.4% according to AOPA readership survey) and they aren't any more crazy t
han the ones who are terrified of them.
>
> Believe it or not=2C but I'm not a motorcycle enthusiast. I don't have a
favorite bike and I don't own a riding magazine=2C poster or calendar. I do
n't belong to a riding club and rarely ride for fun. Heck=2C I prefer to dr
ive my Chevy Astro when it's available. I started riding motorcycles becaus
e my airplane doesn't drive to my favorite restaurant=2C beach=2C state par
k=2C convention=2C museum or friends house. I carry a motorcycle in my comp
osite belly pod so I can land at any little airport in the world and hit th
e roads in about 2 minutes... problem solved!
>
> I've got all the freedom and utility of a roadable airplane and my vehicl
e combination takes me anywhere I please. I don't have to find airports wit
h rental cars=2C compare rates or make a reservation. I don't have to arriv
e during business hours or top off the tank on my way back. I can ride into
town on a whim or try a new restaurant during my fuel stop. Every landing
is another opportunity to explore and enjoy local sites.
>
> I'm not a motorcycle fan but I love flying and I've found plenty of reaso
ns to bring a bike along. -David
>
> PS - I love that pic of your son in the drink!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280589#280589
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/bikeinpod_508.jpg
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 20
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Cold in Maine??
Check out tomorrow's Houston forecast compared to Base Orcadas,
Antarctica. J
=======================
I don't yet have heat in my shop, but I'm almost finished with
installing a propane heating system. It is mounted, vented, and wired,
and now I just need to get the propane company out to install the
propane lines and tank, and then check everything. Hopefully soon! It
gets slightly chilly here in Maine this time of year... ;-)
-Dj
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: AMSAFE inflatable belts |
Thanks for the interest in our airbag kits.
Whether the kit is STC'd or going into a light sport aircraft the development programs
are essentially the same. All of our kits under go a complete engineering
development program including dynamic testing (sled test). There are some
common parts but each kit is developed specifically for the individual aircraft
model.
We offer our seatbelt airbag kits through OEMs and a network of service centers
who can sell, install and service our kits. We have been collecting information
at various shows (EAA/Fun N Sun) to determine market interest for the homebuilder
market. This is an on-going process and is still being assessed.
Information on AmSafe Seatbelt Airbags can be found at www.gaairbags.com including a list of airbag kits available by aircraft model.
Sincerely,
--------
Stephen Marshall
Dir. Sales/Marketing GA Seatbelt Airbags
AmSafe
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280617#280617
Message 22
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| Subject: | headliner finishing |
I'm actually in the planning stages of headliner material/finishing and wondering
how to finish the edges around windows and edges of doors, etc. What are some
of the methods/materials used instead of just a cut edge?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280620#280620
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: OOPS!! What have I done??? |
Thanks for that!
A different Bill
do not archive
Stein Bruch wrote:
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> I cant comment too much on the fixing, but I can give another lesson
> learned to your issue. I dont know what Vans is going to say. Worse
> case is you put a doubler on it and go about your day but Im guessing
> you wont need to do that.
>
> Anyway, Next time when removing the rivet from an area like (and there
> will be a next time) that put the corner/edge of a bucking bar beside
> the rivet tail that youre going to knock out. Many times with thin
> pieces of aluminum like that, the rivet will have grown in the hole on
> both sides of it, so simply punching it out without backing will
> result in deformed metal as youve seen. Placing a bucking bar or
> other heavy piece of metal beside the rivet tail when driving it out
> makes it both easier, cleaner and stops deformation.
>
> My 2 cents as usual.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Stein
>
> Stein Bruch
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill and
> Tami Britton
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 07, 2010 12:55 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: OOPS!! What have I done???
>
> I think I might have messed up pretty good this time. Working on the
> wings on pages 14-5 or 14-6 we are to rivet the forward most hole on
> the flanges of the inboard most 7 W-1011 L,R ribs. While doing this I
> had a less than acceptable rivet so I drilled it out. When removing
> the shop head (via punch/small mallet) I managed to push the rib
> flange away from the spar flange a little. So, this is where I
> hopefully learn my lesson, I tape the jaws of a pliers up to prevent
> scratching the spar/rib. I easily squeeze the pliers on the flange and
> it nicely pulls it back into place. However, I realize when I 'm done
> that the "cutters" on the pliers nipped the edge of the spar flange.
> Left a nice little "cut" on the edge of the spar flange (top
> flange--didn't count exactly where it was but outboard about 6 or 7
> ribs from the inboard most rib). Lesson here--don't use pliers on
> aluminum--I know now. Question--pics are attached--before I contact
> Vans does anybody have any suggestions/advice. Did I ruin the wing
> spar?? Do I leave it alone? Do I file it smooth and leave it? Do I use
> a scotchbrite wheel and remove a smooth "notch" section to get rid of
> it? The "nip" is somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8 inch long.
>
> Any suggestions appreciated other than telling me how stupid I am for
> doing it. I have learned my lesson.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: headliner finishing |
Flightline apparently has an edging material for their headliner
material. Just talked to them today.
Bill
rvdave wrote:
>
> I'm actually in the planning stages of headliner material/finishing and wondering
how to finish the edges around windows and edges of doors, etc. What are
some of the methods/materials used instead of just a cut edge?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280620#280620
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
Hi there. I'm about to order my fuselage and finishing kits for my RV-10 and sorting
out components to delete so as to replace/upgrade from stock Van's parts.
One big ticket item I've been contemplating is the cowling. I intend on using
an IO-540, either a stock Lycoming or from BPE depending on budget at the
time.
Anyway, I've searched through the mailing list and various online forums, but any
posts I've found relating to the James Aircraft cowl are fairly dated.. there
seems to be some information on people's experiences with the James Aircraft
cowls for other RVs, but not much for their RV-10 offering. I know some people
are planning on using it, but are any flying? What about the specs on it
- it is claimed to be faster, more fuel efficient, and better at cooling... is
that measurable, or mostly just hype? I've read that it is a bit more work to
fit than the standard Van's cowl - what are people's experiences with that?
I'm trying to sort out if it's worth it (to me - everyone has their own criteria)
in terms of cost and time, so any experiences that anyone has with it would
be greatly appreciated!
And if anyone has other advice on components they'd upgrade from Van's stock items
for the fuselage and finishing kit, I'm all ears.... especially for the more
expensive items that can be deleted out of Van's kit.
Thanks for your help!
Dan
--
Syzygy Research & Technology
Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
Phone: 780-961-2213
Message 26
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| Subject: | OOPS!! What have I done??? |
Another trick I have used in the past is to use a slice of eraser (or a
rubber grommet) over the top of the rivet. The rivet squeezer compresses
the rubber against the flange to create a flush joint and then squeezes the
rivet. Can post pics if interested.
Cheers,
Ron
VH-XRM, flying in Oz
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Sent: Friday, 8 January 2010 11:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OOPS!! What have I done???
Hi Bill,
I can't comment too much on the fixing, but I can give another "lesson
learned" to your issue. I don't know what Van's is going to say. Worse
case is you put a doubler on it and go about your day but I'm guessing you
won't need to do that.
Anyway, Next time when removing the rivet from an area like (and there will
be a next time) that put the corner/edge of a bucking bar beside the rivet
tail that you're going to knock out. Many times with thin pieces of
aluminum like that, the rivet will have grown in the hole on both sides of
it, so simply punching it out without backing will result in deformed metal
- as you've seen. Placing a bucking bar or other heavy piece of metal
beside the rivet tail when driving it out makes it both easier, cleaner and
stops deformation.
My 2 cents as usual.
Cheers,
Stein
Stein Bruch
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 12:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OOPS!! What have I done???
I think I might have messed up pretty good this time. Working on the wings
on pages 14-5 or 14-6 we are to rivet the forward most hole on the flanges
of the inboard most 7 W-1011 L,R ribs. While doing this I had a less than
acceptable rivet so I drilled it out. When removing the shop head (via
punch/small mallet) I managed to push the rib flange away from the spar
flange a little. So, this is where I hopefully learn my lesson, I tape the
jaws of a pliers up to prevent scratching the spar/rib. I easily squeeze
the pliers on the flange and it nicely pulls it back into place. However, I
realize when I 'm done that the "cutters" on the pliers nipped the edge of
the spar flange. Left a nice little "cut" on the edge of the spar flange
(top flange--didn't count exactly where it was but outboard about 6 or 7
ribs from the inboard most rib). Lesson here--don't use pliers on
aluminum--I know now. Question--pics are attached--before I contact Vans
does anybody have any suggestions/advice. Did I ruin the wing spar?? Do I
leave it alone? Do I file it smooth and leave it? Do I use a scotchbrite
wheel and remove a smooth "notch" section to get rid of it? The "nip" is
somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8 inch long.
Any suggestions appreciated other than telling me how stupid I am for doing
it. I have learned my lesson.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
Of course, it's mid-summer in Antarctica. What was Houston like on July 7th?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280632#280632
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Can I use this? |
TG9sLCB5ZWFoLiBUaGF0J3Mgd2hhdCBJIHdhcyB0ZWxsaW5nIHRoZW0gYXQgd29yay4gSXQgc3Rp
bGwgcHJldHR5IGRhbW4gZnVubnkgdGhvdWdoLiANCg0KOikNCg0KDQotLS0tLSBPcmlnaW5hbCBN
ZXNzYWdlIC0tLS0tDQpGcm9tOiBCb2IgVHVybmVyIDxib2J0dXJuZXJAYWx1bS5ycGkuZWR1Pg0K
VG86IHJ2MTAtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tIDxydjEwLWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbT4NClNl
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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT0NCg0KDQoNCg=
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
There are several 10's flying with the James cowl/plenum. I am but one
of them. I love the appearance, but I do not believe that there is any
evidence that there is any improvement in performance, and there is a
fair amount of evidence that there is a negative impact on cooling and
LOP operations.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Dan Charrois wrote:
>
> Hi there. I'm about to order my fuselage and finishing kits for my RV-10 and
sorting out components to delete so as to replace/upgrade from stock Van's parts.
One big ticket item I've been contemplating is the cowling. I intend on
using an IO-540, either a stock Lycoming or from BPE depending on budget at the
time.
>
> Anyway, I've searched through the mailing list and various online forums, but
any posts I've found relating to the James Aircraft cowl are fairly dated.. there
seems to be some information on people's experiences with the James Aircraft
cowls for other RVs, but not much for their RV-10 offering. I know some people
are planning on using it, but are any flying? What about the specs on it
- it is claimed to be faster, more fuel efficient, and better at cooling...
is that measurable, or mostly just hype? I've read that it is a bit more work
to fit than the standard Van's cowl - what are people's experiences with that?
I'm trying to sort out if it's worth it (to me - everyone has their own criteria)
in terms of cost and time, so any experiences that anyone has with it would
be greatly appreciated!
>
> And if anyone has other advice on components they'd upgrade from Van's stock
items for the fuselage and finishing kit, I'm all ears.... especially for the
more expensive items that can be deleted out of Van's kit.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Dan
> --
> Syzygy Research & Technology
> Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Getting nose wheel fairing on and off |
Does anyone else think the aft nosewheel fairing is difficult to get on
and off? With the aluminum brackets in place, you have to really open up
the fairing in order to just clear them because the opening is narrower
than the mount points. Once the brackets clear the narrower opening and
are in position, then they are within a quarter inch or so of the
fairing itself, so nothing seems abnormal other than trying to get the
fairing into place.
I can see this being a real difficulty for checking and airing the front
tire. I checked the archives but found no mention of this, so I have to ask!
Also, i am wondering what technique people may have used to build up the
mount points with flox. The best chance for a neat job seems like taking
a syringe and squeezing flox in thru the mount screw holes in the
fairing. Using the technique I used on the main fairings, seems like a
small chance for doing a neat job.
Jae
40533
Fricking Air Box
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