Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:48 AM - Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl (Robin Marks)
2. 01:04 AM - RV-10 Jet? (Robin Marks)
3. 03:59 AM - FW: Any Australian RV-10's out there? (Gordon Anderson)
4. 04:58 AM - Re: Re: AMSAFE inflatable belts (DLM)
5. 05:50 AM - Wing Kit (Rick Lark)
6. 06:50 AM - Re: Wing Kit (ricksked@cox.net)
7. 08:54 AM - Re: RV-10 Jet? (Perry, Phil)
8. 09:08 AM - Ammeter shunt physical location (Rob Kochman)
9. 10:49 AM - Re: Can I use this? (John Cox)
10. 10:49 AM - engine break in period (cjay)
11. 11:07 AM - Re: engine break in period (Deems Davis)
12. 11:16 AM - Re: Ammeter shunt physical location (Nick Leonard)
13. 11:48 AM - Wiring Trutrak Auto Trim and TCW Safety Trim together (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
14. 12:46 PM - Re: engine break in period (Luis Rodriguez)
15. 12:53 PM - Re: engine break in period (gary)
16. 12:59 PM - Re: engine break in period (Kelly McMullen)
17. 01:06 PM - Re: engine break in period (Pascal)
18. 02:04 PM - Re: engine break in period (DLM)
19. 02:16 PM - Re: engine break in period (cjay)
20. 02:40 PM - Re: Wing Kit (Tom Koelzer)
21. 02:45 PM - Re: Re: engine break in period (Luis Rodriguez)
22. 03:54 PM - Re: engine break in period (Linn Walters)
23. 03:54 PM - Re: Re: Ammeter shunt physical location (Linn Walters)
24. 05:13 PM - Re: Wiring Trutrak Auto Trim and TCW Safety Trim together (Bob Turner)
25. 06:05 PM - Re: Wing Kit (Rick Lark)
26. 06:41 PM - Re: Wiring Trutrak Auto Trim and TCW Safety Trim together (g.combs)
27. 06:42 PM - Re: Re: engine break in period (ricksked@cox.net)
28. 06:46 PM - Loehle Wonderfil and Poly Fiber Smooth and Prime, No Bonding. (John Gonzalez)
29. 07:36 PM - Re: Wing Kit (Tom Koelzer)
30. 07:43 PM - Re: Re: engine break in period (Pascal)
31. 09:01 PM - door handle & mechanism (Roxanne and Mike Lefever)
32. 09:37 PM - Re: door handle & mechanism (Jeff Carpenter)
33. 09:55 PM - Re: door handle & mechanism (rvdave)
34. 09:58 PM - Re: door handle & mechanism (Don McDonald)
35. 10:04 PM - Re: door handle & mechanism (Roxanne and Mike Lefever)
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Subject: | RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
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Message 2
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How about two of these on an RV-10J ? Ok start with an RV-8J. Van?
http://www.eaa.org/news/2009/2009-12-23_sonex.asp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGlduG2zl5Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-X8E3XTHqfA
Message 3
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Subject: | FW: Any Australian RV-10's out there? |
Hi all,
I'm new to the forum and am about to start the empennage. Still
experimenting on the training project, and hoping the aircraft is going to
look a lot better J
I'm planning a trip out to Australia next week and wondering if there are
any flying RV-10's in Perth or Melbourne I could take a look at, in search
of inspiration and guidance?
Best wishes to all for the new year.
Gordon Anderson
RV-10 #41015
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: AMSAFE inflatable belts |
The AMSAFE belts for the 10 were first considered by myself when I
discovered an AMSAFE reel belt in a Super Cub; I found the right contact at
AMSAFE and they told me that the Super Cub belt would not work ; so began
the process to design a new setup. If you have looked at the setup on
www.inertialbelts.com you see a friend creating the additional hard points
on the inside of the lid. These can be created , perhaps more easily from
the outside; its the same process of marking the holes and drilling with a
hole saw though the external layers but not the interior layers, removing
the foam and creating the hard point. Reinforcing cloth/tape is then applied
across the hard points. then the procedure from the website for the
aluminum blocks applies. AMSAFE wanted the additional hard points and the
structural strength increase. I had some neighbors (consulting engineers)
evaluate the the hardpoints differences and found that the anchor was 5-8
times stronger than the plans approach. Also a consideration is that the
single countersunk screw that the plans callout has no countersunk washer to
spread the load and the single screw with fixed belts "works" the screw in
the fiberglass each time the shoulder strap is loaded. I am unfamiliar with
the bracket that you describe on the Super Cub belt. If you want to discuss,
my phone is 480-626-4048.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron B.
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 5:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: AMSAFE inflatable belts
Hello Mr. Marshall
Sorry to sort of hijacking this thread, but it is still an Amsafe inertial
seat belt inquiry.
Today we removed one of our Amsafe inertial reels from my Supercub. It is
part # 4022-1-061, it's about four years old. We installed it (temporary) in
our RV-10 that is under construction. The fuselage has been painted inside
and out at this time. Reading other post on the RV forums I've read that to
install an Amsafe inertial real that the 3/8" hole is not used and four # 10
bolts along with new hard points. The reel that I have mentioned above only
has two 1/4" holes along with the 3/8" hole ( the 3/8" hole is what secures
the reel in my Supercub) . This leads me to believe this reel is not the
reel most are using in their RV-10's. First question is , could this type of
reel be used in the RV-10 ( we are only interested in the front seat
positions)? We are not engineers but if the structure of this reel is
adequate and Van's hard point along with the 5/16" supplied will hold a non
inertial reel belt, I do not see why it will not hold the above reel. The
belt comes out of t!
he reel almost in the same position it would on a straight belt (non reel)
system, ie. in line. With a standard belt it would not be as tight other
than when a pilot nows he is about to have a bad landing so the fetch up
would be quite sever there.
We are too far along to modify our canopy and if we don't find an
alternative we will have to go with the standard belts.
My last question (for now at least) is if the above could work, this part #
belt would have to have the two "V" web lengthened about a foot to clear the
headrest( one web on each side) . Is this something that could be done?
Hopefully I'm making myself understood.
Thanks Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280753#280753
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Hi guys
I'm starting to think about ordering the wing kit and would like to
peruse the contents or list of parts as shipped by Vans. Where can I
find what is actually included in this kit??
I've looked through the Van's web site but must be missing it. Thx
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
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Rick
I believe Tim has the inventory sheets on his web site
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Rick Lark" <jrlark@bmts.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Wing Kit
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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I saw that at OSH last year and thought it was the coolest thing I saw
at the show. I'm hoping they have it flying my OSH this year and maybe
they can do a demo for the crowd.
I usually find Sonex planes as sexy as women from........ Well never
mind. I might offend some countries.
I just hope they build a 2-place & 4 place with 2 engines and 4 hours of
fuel.
From: Robin Marks [mailto:robin1@mrmoisture.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 3:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Jet?
How about two of these on an RV-10J ? Ok start with an RV-8J. Van?
http://www.eaa.org/news/2009/2009-12-23_sonex.asp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGlduG2zl5Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-X8E3XTHqfA
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Subject: | Ammeter shunt physical location |
All, architecturally, I'm putting my ammeter shunt between the battery and
everything else. Physically, I'm not so sure. I'm considering putting it
near the starter solenoid, as shown in the attached picture, or above that
on the "tilted" part of the firewall.
Anyone have any suggestions or pictures of what you've done? I'm also going
to use an ANL limiter next to the shunt, so it makes sense to me to put
these both on the engine side of the firewall.
Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
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Having served in Antarctica, I can say you are comparing Apples and
Oranges. Houston is in the middle of their Winter and Orcadas is in the
middle of a Summer Heat wave. Just wait a month and watch the change.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 12:24 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Can I use this?
Flip your shop upside down and put it on the other side of the world
where it is now summer. You wouldn't be able to even go outside for more
than a few minutes in their winter.
If you work faster you will generate friction with the air around you,
generating heat and you will also finish your project faster than the
rest of us.
________________________________
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Can I use this?
From: Phil.Perry@netapp.com
Cold in Maine??
Check out tomorrow's Houston forecast compared to Base Orcadas,
Antarctica. J
=======================
I don't yet have heat in my shop, but I'm almost finished with
installing a propane heating system. It is mounted, vented, and wired,
and now I just need to get the propane company out to install the
propane lines and tank, and then check everything. Hopefully soon! It
gets slightly chilly here in Maine this time of year... ;-)
-Dj
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Subject: | engine break in period |
Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I came
across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break
in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
A couple of the highlights:
1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay with it
for the first 50 hours.
2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground running time
to a minimum.
It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective pressure (BMEP)
and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder wall and piston
rings.
I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting out
and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the pattern?
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820
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Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
Good to see you back CJ!
A. minimize the ground run time. Prior to 1st flight. 1st engine start
5-10 minutes, Brake/Taxi check 5-10 minutes. Keep other engine running
to minimum. You can't eliminate it, just don't over do it with a lot of
preflight engine runs at low MP settings.
B. Notify tower (if applicable) of 1st flight and ask for orbits above
the airfield and above pattern alt. If airport is controlled most
controllers will accommodate. I operate out one of the busiest GA
airports in the US , and this was not problem. you can do this at full
power and high RPM (2500). The key is to keep the MP pressure up.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
cjay wrote:
>
> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I came
across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break
in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
>
> A couple of the highlights:
>
> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay with
it for the first 50 hours.
>
> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground running
time to a minimum.
>
> It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective pressure
(BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder wall and piston
rings.
>
> I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting out
and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the pattern?
>
> cjay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820
>
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Ammeter shunt physical location |
Rob,
I was just working on the connections to the shunt myself. Mine is located on
the cabin side of the firewall for a couple of reasons but primarily because it
required fewer penetrations of the firewall for the way I wanted to use the
shunt. Also, it is a more protected location.
It has always surprised/annoyed me that these shunts don't come with some sort
of cover. Does anyone have a suggestion for how to cover the shunt?
The question that you might first want to ask yourself is what do you want the
shunt to indicate? The AFS wiring diagram shows it in-line with the alternator
output which will indicate the total output of the alternator but nothing else
(it will never show a negative indication). The Dynon diagrams gives three
options of where it could be placed in the wiring diagram. The location depends
on whether you want to see the load on the bus. It shows as negative amps when
the alternator is not on-line (battery supplying all power, such as prior
to engine start) and as positive amps of the amount of current the alternator
is providing to charge the battery.
If you haven't already, you may want to give consideration to the connections from
the battery to the bus with the placement of the shunt.
Again, if anyone has a good way to cover the shunt (pictures), it would be greatly
appreciated and no doubt helpful to many.
Good luck,
Nick
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280825#280825
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Subject: | Wiring Trutrak Auto Trim and TCW Safety Trim together |
I am trying to figure out if Auto Trim works with Safety Trim (I assume
so).
If so, how is the trim switch and trim motor wired in? That is, is the
Auto Trim module connected on the switch side or the motor side of the
Safety Trim module.
This is clearly a question for the 2 vendors but it's the weekend and
was hoping someone may know the answers.
Bill "staring at too many schematics for too long" Watson
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Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
Full power? What speed would that give you? 170 in circles. Must
feel like a NASCAR track constanly banking. I'd rather do circles
above the airport then looking for a place to land off airport. How
long is the break in period?
Sent from my iPod
On Jan 9, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
>
> Good to see you back CJ!
>
> A. minimize the ground run time. Prior to 1st flight. 1st engine
> start 5-10 minutes, Brake/Taxi check 5-10 minutes. Keep other engine
> running to minimum. You can't eliminate it, just don't over do it
> with a lot of preflight engine runs at low MP settings.
> B. Notify tower (if applicable) of 1st flight and ask for orbits
> above the airfield and above pattern alt. If airport is controlled
> most controllers will accommodate. I operate out one of the busiest
> GA airports in the US , and this was not problem. you can do this at
> full power and high RPM (2500). The key is to keep the MP pressure up.
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
> cjay wrote:
>>
>> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant
>> future) I came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about
>> steps for the engine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or
>> overhauled engine).
>>
>> A couple of the highlights:
>>
>> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period.
>> Stay with it for the first 50 hours.
>>
>> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid
>> ground running time to a minimum.
>> It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective
>> pressure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the
>> cylinder wall and piston rings.
>>
>> I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just
>> starting out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow
>> flights around the pattern?
>>
>> cjay
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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|
Subject: | engine break in period |
Another option is to put a hood on your engine like the engine overhaul
places do. I barrowed one from my local engine builder. Then I did a full
power ground run with the plane tied to a tree/truck/heavy object for 3 or
more hours until the CHT's start to drop. This greatly enhances the break
in.
Gary Specketer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: engine break in period
Good to see you back CJ!
A. minimize the ground run time. Prior to 1st flight. 1st engine start
5-10 minutes, Brake/Taxi check 5-10 minutes. Keep other engine running
to minimum. You can't eliminate it, just don't over do it with a lot of
preflight engine runs at low MP settings.
B. Notify tower (if applicable) of 1st flight and ask for orbits above
the airfield and above pattern alt. If airport is controlled most
controllers will accommodate. I operate out one of the busiest GA
airports in the US , and this was not problem. you can do this at full
power and high RPM (2500). The key is to keep the MP pressure up.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
cjay wrote:
>
> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I
came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine
break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
>
> A couple of the highlights:
>
> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay
with it for the first 50 hours.
>
> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground
running time to a minimum.
>
> It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective
pressure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder
wall and piston rings.
>
> I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting
out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the
pattern?
>
> cjay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820
>
>
>
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|
Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
The ideal would be to start out with a high time IO-540 to do all of
your phase one work. Then after the first 6-12 months of flying, pull
the engine and overhaul/exchange for a fresh engine.
If your engine hasn't been broken in, ideally you don't do taxi tests,
just one ground run of a minute or two to check for leaks. Or you pay
your engine builder to run the engine 4-5 hours on their test stand to
break it in. If you do taxi tests and such with a fresh/new engine you
risk glazing the cylinder walls making break-in difficult to
impossible. You make get lucky and break in okay inspite of your
ground runs. Key part is don't let cylinders get very hot, and allow
full cool down before any subsequent run.
On Sat, Jan 9, 2010 at 11:46 AM, cjay <cgfinney@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I came
across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break
in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
>
> A couple of the highlights:
>
> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay with
it for the first 50 hours.
>
> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground running
time to a minimum.
= --> http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
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|
Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
Here's what Lycoming recommends
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/service-instructions/pdfs/SI1427B.pdf
I just grabbed this off the net but I know Eci has breakin procedures as
well.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "cjay" <cgfinney@yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 10:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: engine break in period
>
> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I
> came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the
> engine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
>
> A couple of the highlights:
>
> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay
> with it for the first 50 hours.
>
> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground
> running time to a minimum.
>
> It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective
> pressure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder
> wall and piston rings.
>
> I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting
> out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the
> pattern?
>
> cjay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820
>
>
>
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Subject: | engine break in period |
For breakin I did 1.3 hours over the airport at about 24/2400; the best I
could do without running into the Class B and stay near the airport for an
immediate landing. I was operating at 3500 MSL above a TPA of 2500 MSL and
below a class B 4000 MSL. Most of the remainder of the test time was cross
country at 23/2250 at about 12 GPH. CHTs initially were 360-430F and
gradually reduced to about 360F where they went just below 360F or the top
of he green for my definition. I spent about 20+ hours doing points A B C A
with a refuel at C. The current oil consumption on the new certified
Lycoming from Vans is 1 quart every 10 -15 hours. I use a combination of
Phillips XC 20-50 and 25-65.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Luis Rodriguez
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 1:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: engine break in period
Full power? What speed would that give you? 170 in circles. Must feel
like a NASCAR track constanly banking. I'd rather do circles above the
airport then looking for a place to land off airport. How long is the break
in period?
Sent from my iPod
On Jan 9, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
>
> Good to see you back CJ!
>
> A. minimize the ground run time. Prior to 1st flight. 1st engine start
> 5-10 minutes, Brake/Taxi check 5-10 minutes. Keep other engine running
> to minimum. You can't eliminate it, just don't over do it with a lot
> of preflight engine runs at low MP settings.
> B. Notify tower (if applicable) of 1st flight and ask for orbits above
> the airfield and above pattern alt. If airport is controlled most
> controllers will accommodate. I operate out one of the busiest GA
> airports in the US , and this was not problem. you can do this at full
> power and high RPM (2500). The key is to keep the MP pressure up.
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
> cjay wrote:
>>
>> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant
>> future) I came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about
>> steps for the engine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or
>> overhauled engine).
>>
>> A couple of the highlights:
>>
>> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period.
>> Stay with it for the first 50 hours.
>>
>> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground
>> running time to a minimum.
>> It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective
>> pressure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the
>> cylinder wall and piston rings.
>>
>> I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just
>> starting out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow
>> flights around the pattern?
>>
>> cjay
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
speckter(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Another option is to put a hood on your engine like the engine overhaul
> places do. I barrowed one from my local engine builder. Then I did a full
> power ground run with the plane tied to a tree/truck/heavy object for 3 or
> more hours until the CHT's start to drop. This greatly enhances the break
> in.
>
> Gary Specketer
>
> --
I'm not sure what an engine hood is, but I was thinking about constructing a simple
sheet metal scoop (to simulate the upper cowl) held in place with bungee
cords so I don't have to hassle with taking the cowling on and off. But I think
this will only be good for the ground run up suggested in the lycoming service
letter that Pascal sent.
For the flight test I'll have to follow Deems recommendation but I'm doubtful the
tower will give the flexibility since I'm in the Washington ADIZ.
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280845#280845
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|
BTW, just ordered wing kit - Vans said 12 weeks delivery.
Tom
#40950 Tail Cone - priming
Crestview, FL
do not archive
On Jan 9, 2010, at 7:45 AM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Hi guys
>
> I'm starting to think about ordering the wing kit and would like to peruse the
contents or list of parts as shipped by Vans. Where can I find what is actually
included in this kit??
>
> I've looked through the Van's web site but must be missing it. Thx
>
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
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|
Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
Try calling the tower ahead of time. You know, like a week or so or
today. Give them a heads up and ask for a recomendation if they can't
acomodate yours.
Sent from my iPod
On Jan 9, 2010, at 5:14 PM, "cjay" <cgfinney@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> speckter(at)comcast.net wrote:
>> Another option is to put a hood on your engine like the engine
>> overhaul
>> places do. I barrowed one from my local engine builder. Then I
>> did a full
>> power ground run with the plane tied to a tree/truck/heavy object
>> for 3 or
>> more hours until the CHT's start to drop. This greatly enhances
>> the break
>> in.
>>
>> Gary Specketer
>>
>> --
>
>
> I'm not sure what an engine hood is, but I was thinking about
> constructing a simple sheet metal scoop (to simulate the upper cowl)
> held in place with bungee cords so I don't have to hassle with
> taking the cowling on and off. But I think this will only be good
> for the ground run up suggested in the lycoming service letter that
> Pascal sent.
>
> For the flight test I'll have to follow Deems recommendation but I'm
> doubtful the tower will give the flexibility since I'm in the
> Washington ADIZ.
>
> cjay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280845#280845
>
>
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
I've missed the step where you do a lot of ground runs and
slow flight in the pattern!
My recommendation is to do one high speed run down the
runway, testing control effectiveness, taxi back, put the
pedal to the metal and go. If you really need to go slow
and taxi a lot .... just minimize it. It'll only take a
little longer to really break in.
If you had an original design that's never flown before,
then testing ground handling is critical and you want to do
that, but the -10 seems to be pretty straight forward
without surprises.
If you're a low time pilot, find an experienced one for the
first flight. Why take a chance on hurting your new baby???
If you want to stay close to the airport (good thing for the
first hour), go high overhead and make big circles,
recording whatever is on your test card. You do have a test
card, don't you???
Linn
Oh yeah .... if you get airborne on the high speed run ....
easy to do .... then just go. I'm not a fan of trying to
get the airplane back on the ground until y9our airspeed and
attitude are under control. MHO, YMMV.
cjay wrote:
>
> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I came
across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break
in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
>
> A couple of the highlights:
>
> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay with
it for the first 50 hours.
>
> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground running
time to a minimum.
>
> It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective pressure
(BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder wall and piston
rings.
>
> I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting out
and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the pattern?
>
> cjay
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Ammeter shunt physical location |
Nick Leonard wrote:
> <nick@nleonard.com>
>
> Rob,
>
> I was just working on the connections to the shunt
> myself. Mine is located on the cabin side of the
> firewall for a couple of reasons but primarily because it
> required fewer penetrations of the firewall for the way I
> wanted to use the shunt. Also, it is a more protected
> location.
>
> It has always surprised/annoyed me that these shunts
> don't come with some sort of cover. Does anyone have a
> suggestion for how to cover the shunt?
Get a can of plasti-dip in your favorite color and brush on
a few coats. It also comes in a spray can, but the coating
will be paint-thick.
>
> The question that you might first want to ask yourself is
> what do you want the shunt to indicate? The AFS wiring
> diagram shows it in-line with the alternator output which
> will indicate the total output of the alternator but
> nothing else (it will never show a negative indication).
> The Dynon diagrams gives three options of where it could
> be placed in the wiring diagram. The location depends on
> whether you want to see the load on the bus. It shows as
> negative amps when the alternator is not on-line (battery
> supplying all power, such as prior to engine start) and
> as positive amps of the amount of current the alternator
> is providing to charge the battery.
As you say, with engine monitors that have alarms, it's good
to have both charge and load current (without the
alternator) available. This places the shunt between the
buss and the battery. I plan on placing mine on the sub-panel.
Linn
>
> If you haven't already, you may want to give
> consideration to the connections from the battery to the
> bus with the placement of the shunt.
>
> Again, if anyone has a good way to cover the shunt
> (pictures), it would be greatly appreciated and no doubt
> helpful to many.
>
> Good luck, Nick
>
> -------- Nick Leonard RV-10 (40015) Finish
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280825#280825
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: Wiring Trutrak Auto Trim and TCW Safety Trim together |
May not help, but if you go to the Trio web site you can find (I think it's in
the Pro Pilot manual) how they recommend hooking up auto trim.
Something to keep in mind: should you have a trim runaway you'll need to pull both
the trim and autopilot power, then sort out which one is the problem. For
this reason, I've placed pullable breakers for them side by side, right in front
of the pilot.
But a plus, if the trim switch sticks on, you can pull the trim power, and still
have trim via the autopilot.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280861#280861
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Tom, are you going slow build or quick build??
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Koelzer" <40950@rv10.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 5:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing Kit
>
> BTW, just ordered wing kit - Vans said 12 weeks delivery.
>
> Tom
> #40950 Tail Cone - priming
> Crestview, FL
>
> do not archive
>
> On Jan 9, 2010, at 7:45 AM, Rick Lark wrote:
>
>> Hi guys
>>
>> I'm starting to think about ordering the wing kit and would like to
>> peruse the contents or list of parts as shipped by Vans. Where can I
>> find what is actually included in this kit??
>>
>> I've looked through the Van's web site but must be missing it. Thx
>>
>> Rick
>> #40956
>> Southampton, Ont
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Wiring Trutrak Auto Trim and TCW Safety Trim together |
The trutrak auto trim should work fine with the TCW Saftey trim. The
auto trim is wired in right at the pitch servo.
Geoff
Sent from my iPhone Geoff
On Jan 9, 2010, at 2:24 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com
> wrote:
> >
>
> I am trying to figure out if Auto Trim works with Safety Trim (I
> assume so).
> If so, how is the trim switch and trim motor wired in? That is, is
> the Auto Trim module connected on the switch side or the motor side
> of the Safety Trim module.
>
> This is clearly a question for the 2 vendors but it's the weekend
> and was hoping someone may know the answers.
>
> Bill "staring at too many schematics for too long" Watson
>
>
Message 27
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Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
DJ .....did you move to the east coast??? Darn I would have tried to miss the
ADIZ......you can't even "fall" through that can ya?? How's the 8 doin? No ground
loops happening anymore I hope.
Rick
------Original Message------
From: cjay
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Jan 9, 2010 2:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: engine break in period
speckter(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Another option is to put a hood on your engine like the engine overhaul
> places do. I barrowed one from my local engine builder. Then I did a full
> power ground run with the plane tied to a tree/truck/heavy object for 3 or
> more hours until the CHT's start to drop. This greatly enhances the break
> in.
>
> Gary Specketer
>
> --
I'm not sure what an engine hood is, but I was thinking about constructing a simple
sheet metal scoop (to simulate the upper cowl) held in place with bungee
cords so I don't have to hassle with taking the cowling on and off. But I think
this will only be good for the ground run up suggested in the lycoming service
letter that Pascal sent.
For the flight test I'll have to follow Deems recommendation but I'm doubtful the
tower will give the flexibility since I'm in the Washington ADIZ.
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280845#280845
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
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Subject: | Loehle Wonderfil and Poly Fiber Smooth and Prime, No Bonding. |
I had built up my cowl the old fashioned way with epoxy and microballoons a
nd sanded it level with a profiling bar. This took a lot of work as there a
re not pinholes in the cowl there are meteor impacks and craters in the cen
ter of each Nomex honey comb cell. In the areas where there is no sandwitch
core material on the cowl=2C I filled the pinholes with Loehle Wonderfil.
I also opted to do a one over the entire surface with the wonderfil the mic
ro.
I asked the nice lady=2C Sandy=2C at Loehle whether my remaining half gallo
n of UV Smooth and Prime would conflict with Wonderfil=2C because I had a h
alf gallon left over from the cabin top and the windshield fairing(Which it
worked wonderfully and bonds like gainbusters). I never used the Wonderfil
in the cabin top or windshield faring. Sandy said that is what many guys d
o. The answer was no known conflict.
The Loehle manual says that no sanding is needed post Wonderfil whipe off.
I srayed my UV smooth and Prime today=2C two light coats. When I started sa
nding it was obvious the two material did not bond. Pieces of UV S&P flaked
off. I guess I am the lucky one who found it...difficult to believe I am s
o fortunate.
Just to confirm=2C I scratched the Smooth and Prime so the underlying struc
ture was visible and then applied a strong stream of air from the compresso
r and watched the Smooth and Prime flake off the Cowl.
I think my arms are going to fall off tomorrow. The joy is in the journey!
Hummm?
John Gonzalez
Message 29
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Slow build. I was sort of shocked it would be that long. I got the impression everyone
wants wings at the same time.
Tom
#40950 Tail Cone
do not archive
On Jan 9, 2010, at 8:00 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
>
> Tom, are you going slow build or quick build??
>
> Rick
Message 30
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Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
since I'm in the Washington ADIZ.
Ouch! Hard to believe they will let you do the Phase 1 in that airspace. The
requirement as I know it is that it needs to be over a none congested (on
the ground) area. I need to drive near 1 hour to go to the airport that
qualifies as I am in the Los Angeles area and it sure is congested around
here.
On a separate note- but the same topic my engine builder ran the engine for
1.7 hours- it sure isn't a breakin but I will try to do my flight early
(colder) and do the minimal necessary (read to assure I feel confortable)
with the taxi test etc.. I know Deems had issue in Arizona with an extended
wait in heat to get going and that resulted in issues for him, so I'm am
taking a lesson from Deems and will try to avoid warmer weather as much as
possible, which at the pace I'm going at we might get past the global
warming and enter the ice age again so it wont be an issue anyway.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "cjay" <cgfinney@yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 2:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: engine break in period
>
>
> speckter(at)comcast.net wrote:
>> Another option is to put a hood on your engine like the engine overhaul
>> places do. I barrowed one from my local engine builder. Then I did a
>> full
>> power ground run with the plane tied to a tree/truck/heavy object for 3
>> or
>> more hours until the CHT's start to drop. This greatly enhances the
>> break
>> in.
>>
>> Gary Specketer
>>
>> --
>
>
> I'm not sure what an engine hood is, but I was thinking about constructing
> a simple sheet metal scoop (to simulate the upper cowl) held in place with
> bungee cords so I don't have to hassle with taking the cowling on and off.
> But I think this will only be good for the ground run up suggested in the
> lycoming service letter that Pascal sent.
>
> For the flight test I'll have to follow Deems recommendation but I'm
> doubtful the tower will give the flexibility since I'm in the Washington
> ADIZ.
>
> cjay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280845#280845
>
>
>
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Subject: | door handle & mechanism |
I can't be the first to declare the Van's door handle and mechanism a tota
l RPITA.......although not an engineer..........even I could design a mouse
trap better than this. After sanding the powder coat off of the shaft hand
le=2C the spring is still too small to move on the shaft and make the mecha
nism work. I thought bringing in my Saturday night consulting engineer Jac
k (Daniels) would help but we finally gave up tonight. Maybe a bigger hamm
er tomorrow will bring success.
Message 32
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Subject: | Re: door handle & mechanism |
Try filing out the area in the shaft that the pin travels up and down
in... that's where mine bound up.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Jan 9, 2010, at 8:57 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever wrote:
> I can't be the first to declare the Van's door handle and mechanism
> a total RPITA.......although not an engineer..........even I could
> design a mousetrap better than this. After sanding the powder coat
> off of the shaft handle, the spring is still too small to move on
> the shaft and make the mechanism work. I thought bringing in my
> Saturday night consulting engineer Jack (Daniels) would help but we
> finally gave up tonight. Maybe a bigger hammer tomorrow will bring
> success.
>
>
Message 33
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Subject: | Re: door handle & mechanism |
I thought maybe they gave me the wrong sized spring but I was able to unwind(?)
the spring a little to fit the shaft and now works fine.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280881#280881
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Subject: | Re: door handle & mechanism |
Spring for the cnc machined handles.... they work perfectly, are a direct V
ans replacement, and they look WAY better.
Don McDonald
--- On Sat, 1/9/10, Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com> wrote:
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism
-I can't be the first to declare the Van's door handle and mechanism a to
tal RPITA.......although not an engineer..........even I could design a mou
setrap better than this.- After sanding the powder coat off of the shaft
handle, the spring is still too small to move on the shaft and make the mec
hanism work.- I thought bringing in my Saturday night consulting engineer
-Jack (Daniels)-would help but we finally gave up tonight.- Maybe a b
igger hammer tomorrow will bring success.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 35
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Subject: | door handle & mechanism |
thanks
From: jeff@westcottpress.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism
Try filing out the area in the shaft that the pin travels up and down in...
that's where mine bound up.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Jan 9=2C 2010=2C at 8:57 PM=2C Roxanne and Mike Lefever wrote:
I can't be the first to declare the Van's door handle and mechanism a tota
l RPITA.......although not an engineer..........even I could design a mouse
trap better than this. After sanding the powder coat off of the shaft hand
le=2C the spring is still too small to move on the shaft and make the mecha
nism work. I thought bringing in my Saturday night consulting engineer Jac
k (Daniels) would help but we finally gave up tonight. Maybe a bigger hamm
er tomorrow will bring success.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
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