RV10-List Digest Archive

Sat 01/09/10


Total Messages Posted: 35



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:48 AM - Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl (Robin Marks)
     2. 01:04 AM - RV-10 Jet? (Robin Marks)
     3. 03:59 AM - FW: Any Australian RV-10's out there? (Gordon Anderson)
     4. 04:58 AM - Re: Re: AMSAFE inflatable belts (DLM)
     5. 05:50 AM - Wing Kit (Rick Lark)
     6. 06:50 AM - Re: Wing Kit (ricksked@cox.net)
     7. 08:54 AM - Re: RV-10 Jet? (Perry, Phil)
     8. 09:08 AM - Ammeter shunt physical location (Rob Kochman)
     9. 10:49 AM - Re: Can I use this? (John Cox)
    10. 10:49 AM - engine break in period (cjay)
    11. 11:07 AM - Re: engine break in period (Deems Davis)
    12. 11:16 AM - Re: Ammeter shunt physical location (Nick Leonard)
    13. 11:48 AM - Wiring Trutrak Auto Trim and TCW Safety Trim together (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
    14. 12:46 PM - Re: engine break in period (Luis Rodriguez)
    15. 12:53 PM - Re: engine break in period (gary)
    16. 12:59 PM - Re: engine break in period (Kelly McMullen)
    17. 01:06 PM - Re: engine break in period (Pascal)
    18. 02:04 PM - Re: engine break in period (DLM)
    19. 02:16 PM - Re: engine break in period (cjay)
    20. 02:40 PM - Re: Wing Kit (Tom Koelzer)
    21. 02:45 PM - Re: Re: engine break in period (Luis Rodriguez)
    22. 03:54 PM - Re: engine break in period (Linn Walters)
    23. 03:54 PM - Re: Re: Ammeter shunt physical location (Linn Walters)
    24. 05:13 PM - Re: Wiring Trutrak Auto Trim and TCW Safety Trim together (Bob Turner)
    25. 06:05 PM - Re: Wing Kit (Rick Lark)
    26. 06:41 PM - Re: Wiring Trutrak Auto Trim and TCW Safety Trim together (g.combs)
    27. 06:42 PM - Re: Re: engine break in period (ricksked@cox.net)
    28. 06:46 PM - Loehle Wonderfil and Poly Fiber Smooth and Prime, No Bonding. (John Gonzalez)
    29. 07:36 PM - Re: Wing Kit (Tom Koelzer)
    30. 07:43 PM - Re: Re: engine break in period (Pascal)
    31. 09:01 PM - door handle & mechanism (Roxanne and Mike Lefever)
    32. 09:37 PM - Re: door handle & mechanism (Jeff Carpenter)
    33. 09:55 PM - Re: door handle & mechanism (rvdave)
    34. 09:58 PM - Re: door handle & mechanism (Don McDonald)
    35. 10:04 PM - Re: door handle & mechanism (Roxanne and Mike Lefever)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:48:14 AM PST US
    Subject: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl
    From: "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
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    Message 2


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    Time: 01:04:51 AM PST US
    Subject: RV-10 Jet?
    From: "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
    How about two of these on an RV-10J ? Ok start with an RV-8J. Van? http://www.eaa.org/news/2009/2009-12-23_sonex.asp http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGlduG2zl5Q http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-X8E3XTHqfA


    Message 3


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    Time: 03:59:10 AM PST US
    From: "Gordon Anderson" <mregoan@hispeed.ch>
    Subject: FW: Any Australian RV-10's out there?
    Hi all, I'm new to the forum and am about to start the empennage. Still experimenting on the training project, and hoping the aircraft is going to look a lot better J I'm planning a trip out to Australia next week and wondering if there are any flying RV-10's in Perth or Melbourne I could take a look at, in search of inspiration and guidance? Best wishes to all for the new year. Gordon Anderson RV-10 #41015


    Message 4


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    Time: 04:58:43 AM PST US
    From: "DLM" <dlm46007@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: AMSAFE inflatable belts
    The AMSAFE belts for the 10 were first considered by myself when I discovered an AMSAFE reel belt in a Super Cub; I found the right contact at AMSAFE and they told me that the Super Cub belt would not work ; so began the process to design a new setup. If you have looked at the setup on www.inertialbelts.com you see a friend creating the additional hard points on the inside of the lid. These can be created , perhaps more easily from the outside; its the same process of marking the holes and drilling with a hole saw though the external layers but not the interior layers, removing the foam and creating the hard point. Reinforcing cloth/tape is then applied across the hard points. then the procedure from the website for the aluminum blocks applies. AMSAFE wanted the additional hard points and the structural strength increase. I had some neighbors (consulting engineers) evaluate the the hardpoints differences and found that the anchor was 5-8 times stronger than the plans approach. Also a consideration is that the single countersunk screw that the plans callout has no countersunk washer to spread the load and the single screw with fixed belts "works" the screw in the fiberglass each time the shoulder strap is loaded. I am unfamiliar with the bracket that you describe on the Super Cub belt. If you want to discuss, my phone is 480-626-4048. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron B. Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 5:31 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: AMSAFE inflatable belts Hello Mr. Marshall Sorry to sort of hijacking this thread, but it is still an Amsafe inertial seat belt inquiry. Today we removed one of our Amsafe inertial reels from my Supercub. It is part # 4022-1-061, it's about four years old. We installed it (temporary) in our RV-10 that is under construction. The fuselage has been painted inside and out at this time. Reading other post on the RV forums I've read that to install an Amsafe inertial real that the 3/8" hole is not used and four # 10 bolts along with new hard points. The reel that I have mentioned above only has two 1/4" holes along with the 3/8" hole ( the 3/8" hole is what secures the reel in my Supercub) . This leads me to believe this reel is not the reel most are using in their RV-10's. First question is , could this type of reel be used in the RV-10 ( we are only interested in the front seat positions)? We are not engineers but if the structure of this reel is adequate and Van's hard point along with the 5/16" supplied will hold a non inertial reel belt, I do not see why it will not hold the above reel. The belt comes out of t! he reel almost in the same position it would on a straight belt (non reel) system, ie. in line. With a standard belt it would not be as tight other than when a pilot nows he is about to have a bad landing so the fetch up would be quite sever there. We are too far along to modify our canopy and if we don't find an alternative we will have to go with the standard belts. My last question (for now at least) is if the above could work, this part # belt would have to have the two "V" web lengthened about a foot to clear the headrest( one web on each side) . Is this something that could be done? Hopefully I'm making myself understood. Thanks Ron Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280753#280753


    Message 5


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    Time: 05:50:10 AM PST US
    From: "Rick Lark" <jrlark@bmts.com>
    Subject: Wing Kit
    Hi guys I'm starting to think about ordering the wing kit and would like to peruse the contents or list of parts as shipped by Vans. Where can I find what is actually included in this kit?? I've looked through the Van's web site but must be missing it. Thx Rick #40956 Southampton, Ont


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:50:14 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wing Kit
    From: ricksked@cox.net
    Rick I believe Tim has the inventory sheets on his web site Rick Sked N246RS Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: "Rick Lark" <jrlark@bmts.com> Subject: RV10-List: Wing Kit This is a multi-part message in MIME format.


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:54:27 AM PST US
    Subject: RV-10 Jet?
    From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
    I saw that at OSH last year and thought it was the coolest thing I saw at the show. I'm hoping they have it flying my OSH this year and maybe they can do a demo for the crowd. I usually find Sonex planes as sexy as women from........ Well never mind. I might offend some countries. I just hope they build a 2-place & 4 place with 2 engines and 4 hours of fuel. From: Robin Marks [mailto:robin1@mrmoisture.com] Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 3:04 AM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Jet? How about two of these on an RV-10J ? Ok start with an RV-8J. Van? http://www.eaa.org/news/2009/2009-12-23_sonex.asp http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGlduG2zl5Q http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-X8E3XTHqfA


    Message 8


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    Time: 09:08:20 AM PST US
    Subject: Ammeter shunt physical location
    From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com>
    All, architecturally, I'm putting my ammeter shunt between the battery and everything else. Physically, I'm not so sure. I'm considering putting it near the starter solenoid, as shown in the attached picture, or above that on the "tilted" part of the firewall. Anyone have any suggestions or pictures of what you've done? I'm also going to use an ANL limiter next to the shunt, so it makes sense to me to put these both on the engine side of the firewall. Thanks... -Rob -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K


    Message 9


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    Time: 10:49:36 AM PST US
    Subject: Can I use this?
    From: "John Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
    Having served in Antarctica, I can say you are comparing Apples and Oranges. Houston is in the middle of their Winter and Orcadas is in the middle of a Summer Heat wave. Just wait a month and watch the change. John Cox From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 12:24 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Can I use this? Flip your shop upside down and put it on the other side of the world where it is now summer. You wouldn't be able to even go outside for more than a few minutes in their winter. If you work faster you will generate friction with the air around you, generating heat and you will also finish your project faster than the rest of us. ________________________________ Subject: RE: RV10-List: Can I use this? From: Phil.Perry@netapp.com Cold in Maine?? Check out tomorrow's Houston forecast compared to Base Orcadas, Antarctica. J ======================= I don't yet have heat in my shop, but I'm almost finished with installing a propane heating system. It is mounted, vented, and wired, and now I just need to get the propane company out to install the propane lines and tank, and then check everything. Hopefully soon! It gets slightly chilly here in Maine this time of year... ;-) -Dj


    Message 10


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    Time: 10:49:37 AM PST US
    Subject: engine break in period
    From: "cjay" <cgfinney@yahoo.com>
    Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine). A couple of the highlights: 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay with it for the first 50 hours. 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground running time to a minimum. It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective pressure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder wall and piston rings. I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the pattern? cjay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820


    Message 11


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    Time: 11:07:39 AM PST US
    From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: engine break in period
    Good to see you back CJ! A. minimize the ground run time. Prior to 1st flight. 1st engine start 5-10 minutes, Brake/Taxi check 5-10 minutes. Keep other engine running to minimum. You can't eliminate it, just don't over do it with a lot of preflight engine runs at low MP settings. B. Notify tower (if applicable) of 1st flight and ask for orbits above the airfield and above pattern alt. If airport is controlled most controllers will accommodate. I operate out one of the busiest GA airports in the US , and this was not problem. you can do this at full power and high RPM (2500). The key is to keep the MP pressure up. Deems Davis N519PJ www.deemsrv10.com cjay wrote: > > Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine). > > A couple of the highlights: > > 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay with it for the first 50 hours. > > 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground running time to a minimum. > > It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective pressure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder wall and piston rings. > > I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the pattern? > > cjay > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820 > > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 11:16:31 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Ammeter shunt physical location
    From: "Nick Leonard" <nick@nleonard.com>
    Rob, I was just working on the connections to the shunt myself. Mine is located on the cabin side of the firewall for a couple of reasons but primarily because it required fewer penetrations of the firewall for the way I wanted to use the shunt. Also, it is a more protected location. It has always surprised/annoyed me that these shunts don't come with some sort of cover. Does anyone have a suggestion for how to cover the shunt? The question that you might first want to ask yourself is what do you want the shunt to indicate? The AFS wiring diagram shows it in-line with the alternator output which will indicate the total output of the alternator but nothing else (it will never show a negative indication). The Dynon diagrams gives three options of where it could be placed in the wiring diagram. The location depends on whether you want to see the load on the bus. It shows as negative amps when the alternator is not on-line (battery supplying all power, such as prior to engine start) and as positive amps of the amount of current the alternator is providing to charge the battery. If you haven't already, you may want to give consideration to the connections from the battery to the bus with the placement of the shunt. Again, if anyone has a good way to cover the shunt (pictures), it would be greatly appreciated and no doubt helpful to many. Good luck, Nick -------- Nick Leonard RV-10 (40015) Finish Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280825#280825


    Message 13


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    Time: 11:48:25 AM PST US
    From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Wiring Trutrak Auto Trim and TCW Safety Trim together
    I am trying to figure out if Auto Trim works with Safety Trim (I assume so). If so, how is the trim switch and trim motor wired in? That is, is the Auto Trim module connected on the switch side or the motor side of the Safety Trim module. This is clearly a question for the 2 vendors but it's the weekend and was hoping someone may know the answers. Bill "staring at too many schematics for too long" Watson


    Message 14


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    Time: 12:46:47 PM PST US
    From: Luis Rodriguez <luis@cristabelle.net>
    Subject: Re: engine break in period
    Full power? What speed would that give you? 170 in circles. Must feel like a NASCAR track constanly banking. I'd rather do circles above the airport then looking for a place to land off airport. How long is the break in period? Sent from my iPod On Jan 9, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote: > > Good to see you back CJ! > > A. minimize the ground run time. Prior to 1st flight. 1st engine > start 5-10 minutes, Brake/Taxi check 5-10 minutes. Keep other engine > running to minimum. You can't eliminate it, just don't over do it > with a lot of preflight engine runs at low MP settings. > B. Notify tower (if applicable) of 1st flight and ask for orbits > above the airfield and above pattern alt. If airport is controlled > most controllers will accommodate. I operate out one of the busiest > GA airports in the US , and this was not problem. you can do this at > full power and high RPM (2500). The key is to keep the MP pressure up. > > Deems Davis > N519PJ > www.deemsrv10.com > > cjay wrote: >> >> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant >> future) I came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about >> steps for the engine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or >> overhauled engine). >> >> A couple of the highlights: >> >> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. >> Stay with it for the first 50 hours. >> >> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid >> ground running time to a minimum. >> It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective >> pressure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the >> cylinder wall and piston rings. >> >> I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just >> starting out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow >> flights around the pattern? >> >> cjay >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >


    Message 15


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    Time: 12:53:12 PM PST US
    From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
    Subject: engine break in period
    Another option is to put a hood on your engine like the engine overhaul places do. I barrowed one from my local engine builder. Then I did a full power ground run with the plane tied to a tree/truck/heavy object for 3 or more hours until the CHT's start to drop. This greatly enhances the break in. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 2:04 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: engine break in period Good to see you back CJ! A. minimize the ground run time. Prior to 1st flight. 1st engine start 5-10 minutes, Brake/Taxi check 5-10 minutes. Keep other engine running to minimum. You can't eliminate it, just don't over do it with a lot of preflight engine runs at low MP settings. B. Notify tower (if applicable) of 1st flight and ask for orbits above the airfield and above pattern alt. If airport is controlled most controllers will accommodate. I operate out one of the busiest GA airports in the US , and this was not problem. you can do this at full power and high RPM (2500). The key is to keep the MP pressure up. Deems Davis N519PJ www.deemsrv10.com cjay wrote: > > Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine). > > A couple of the highlights: > > 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay with it for the first 50 hours. > > 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground running time to a minimum. > > It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective pressure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder wall and piston rings. > > I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the pattern? > > cjay > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820 > > >


    Message 16


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    Time: 12:59:54 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: engine break in period
    From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>
    The ideal would be to start out with a high time IO-540 to do all of your phase one work. Then after the first 6-12 months of flying, pull the engine and overhaul/exchange for a fresh engine. If your engine hasn't been broken in, ideally you don't do taxi tests, just one ground run of a minute or two to check for leaks. Or you pay your engine builder to run the engine 4-5 hours on their test stand to break it in. If you do taxi tests and such with a fresh/new engine you risk glazing the cylinder walls making break-in difficult to impossible. You make get lucky and break in okay inspite of your ground runs. Key part is don't let cylinders get very hot, and allow full cool down before any subsequent run. On Sat, Jan 9, 2010 at 11:46 AM, cjay <cgfinney@yahoo.com> wrote: > > Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine). > > A couple of the highlights: > > 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay with it for the first 50 hours. > > 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground running time to a minimum. = --> http://forums.matronics.com > >


    Message 17


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    Time: 01:06:20 PM PST US
    From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: engine break in period
    Here's what Lycoming recommends http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/service-instructions/pdfs/SI1427B.pdf I just grabbed this off the net but I know Eci has breakin procedures as well. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "cjay" <cgfinney@yahoo.com> Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 10:46 AM Subject: RV10-List: engine break in period > > Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I > came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the > engine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine). > > A couple of the highlights: > > 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay > with it for the first 50 hours. > > 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground > running time to a minimum. > > It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective > pressure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder > wall and piston rings. > > I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting > out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the > pattern? > > cjay > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820 > > >


    Message 18


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    Time: 02:04:29 PM PST US
    From: "DLM" <dlm46007@cox.net>
    Subject: engine break in period
    For breakin I did 1.3 hours over the airport at about 24/2400; the best I could do without running into the Class B and stay near the airport for an immediate landing. I was operating at 3500 MSL above a TPA of 2500 MSL and below a class B 4000 MSL. Most of the remainder of the test time was cross country at 23/2250 at about 12 GPH. CHTs initially were 360-430F and gradually reduced to about 360F where they went just below 360F or the top of he green for my definition. I spent about 20+ hours doing points A B C A with a refuel at C. The current oil consumption on the new certified Lycoming from Vans is 1 quart every 10 -15 hours. I use a combination of Phillips XC 20-50 and 25-65. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Luis Rodriguez Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 1:35 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: engine break in period Full power? What speed would that give you? 170 in circles. Must feel like a NASCAR track constanly banking. I'd rather do circles above the airport then looking for a place to land off airport. How long is the break in period? Sent from my iPod On Jan 9, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote: > > Good to see you back CJ! > > A. minimize the ground run time. Prior to 1st flight. 1st engine start > 5-10 minutes, Brake/Taxi check 5-10 minutes. Keep other engine running > to minimum. You can't eliminate it, just don't over do it with a lot > of preflight engine runs at low MP settings. > B. Notify tower (if applicable) of 1st flight and ask for orbits above > the airfield and above pattern alt. If airport is controlled most > controllers will accommodate. I operate out one of the busiest GA > airports in the US , and this was not problem. you can do this at full > power and high RPM (2500). The key is to keep the MP pressure up. > > Deems Davis > N519PJ > www.deemsrv10.com > > cjay wrote: >> >> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant >> future) I came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about >> steps for the engine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or >> overhauled engine). >> >> A couple of the highlights: >> >> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. >> Stay with it for the first 50 hours. >> >> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground >> running time to a minimum. >> It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective >> pressure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the >> cylinder wall and piston rings. >> >> I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just >> starting out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow >> flights around the pattern? >> >> cjay >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >


    Message 19


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    Time: 02:16:56 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: engine break in period
    From: "cjay" <cgfinney@yahoo.com>
    speckter(at)comcast.net wrote: > Another option is to put a hood on your engine like the engine overhaul > places do. I barrowed one from my local engine builder. Then I did a full > power ground run with the plane tied to a tree/truck/heavy object for 3 or > more hours until the CHT's start to drop. This greatly enhances the break > in. > > Gary Specketer > > -- I'm not sure what an engine hood is, but I was thinking about constructing a simple sheet metal scoop (to simulate the upper cowl) held in place with bungee cords so I don't have to hassle with taking the cowling on and off. But I think this will only be good for the ground run up suggested in the lycoming service letter that Pascal sent. For the flight test I'll have to follow Deems recommendation but I'm doubtful the tower will give the flexibility since I'm in the Washington ADIZ. cjay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280845#280845


    Message 20


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    Time: 02:40:21 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wing Kit
    From: Tom Koelzer <40950@rv10.net>
    BTW, just ordered wing kit - Vans said 12 weeks delivery. Tom #40950 Tail Cone - priming Crestview, FL do not archive On Jan 9, 2010, at 7:45 AM, Rick Lark wrote: > Hi guys > > I'm starting to think about ordering the wing kit and would like to peruse the contents or list of parts as shipped by Vans. Where can I find what is actually included in this kit?? > > I've looked through the Van's web site but must be missing it. Thx > > Rick > #40956 > Southampton, Ont > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > http://forums.matronics.com > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > >


    Message 21


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    Time: 02:45:54 PM PST US
    From: Luis Rodriguez <luis@cristabelle.net>
    Subject: Re: engine break in period
    Try calling the tower ahead of time. You know, like a week or so or today. Give them a heads up and ask for a recomendation if they can't acomodate yours. Sent from my iPod On Jan 9, 2010, at 5:14 PM, "cjay" <cgfinney@yahoo.com> wrote: > > > speckter(at)comcast.net wrote: >> Another option is to put a hood on your engine like the engine >> overhaul >> places do. I barrowed one from my local engine builder. Then I >> did a full >> power ground run with the plane tied to a tree/truck/heavy object >> for 3 or >> more hours until the CHT's start to drop. This greatly enhances >> the break >> in. >> >> Gary Specketer >> >> -- > > > I'm not sure what an engine hood is, but I was thinking about > constructing a simple sheet metal scoop (to simulate the upper cowl) > held in place with bungee cords so I don't have to hassle with > taking the cowling on and off. But I think this will only be good > for the ground run up suggested in the lycoming service letter that > Pascal sent. > > For the flight test I'll have to follow Deems recommendation but I'm > doubtful the tower will give the flexibility since I'm in the > Washington ADIZ. > > cjay > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280845#280845 > >


    Message 22


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    Time: 03:54:55 PM PST US
    From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: engine break in period
    I've missed the step where you do a lot of ground runs and slow flight in the pattern! My recommendation is to do one high speed run down the runway, testing control effectiveness, taxi back, put the pedal to the metal and go. If you really need to go slow and taxi a lot .... just minimize it. It'll only take a little longer to really break in. If you had an original design that's never flown before, then testing ground handling is critical and you want to do that, but the -10 seems to be pretty straight forward without surprises. If you're a low time pilot, find an experienced one for the first flight. Why take a chance on hurting your new baby??? If you want to stay close to the airport (good thing for the first hour), go high overhead and make big circles, recording whatever is on your test card. You do have a test card, don't you??? Linn Oh yeah .... if you get airborne on the high speed run .... easy to do .... then just go. I'm not a fan of trying to get the airplane back on the ground until y9our airspeed and attitude are under control. MHO, YMMV. cjay wrote: > > Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine). > > A couple of the highlights: > > 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay with it for the first 50 hours. > > 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground running time to a minimum. > > It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective pressure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder wall and piston rings. > > I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the pattern? > > cjay > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820 > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 23


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    Time: 03:54:55 PM PST US
    From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Ammeter shunt physical location
    Nick Leonard wrote: > <nick@nleonard.com> > > Rob, > > I was just working on the connections to the shunt > myself. Mine is located on the cabin side of the > firewall for a couple of reasons but primarily because it > required fewer penetrations of the firewall for the way I > wanted to use the shunt. Also, it is a more protected > location. > > It has always surprised/annoyed me that these shunts > don't come with some sort of cover. Does anyone have a > suggestion for how to cover the shunt? Get a can of plasti-dip in your favorite color and brush on a few coats. It also comes in a spray can, but the coating will be paint-thick. > > The question that you might first want to ask yourself is > what do you want the shunt to indicate? The AFS wiring > diagram shows it in-line with the alternator output which > will indicate the total output of the alternator but > nothing else (it will never show a negative indication). > The Dynon diagrams gives three options of where it could > be placed in the wiring diagram. The location depends on > whether you want to see the load on the bus. It shows as > negative amps when the alternator is not on-line (battery > supplying all power, such as prior to engine start) and > as positive amps of the amount of current the alternator > is providing to charge the battery. As you say, with engine monitors that have alarms, it's good to have both charge and load current (without the alternator) available. This places the shunt between the buss and the battery. I plan on placing mine on the sub-panel. Linn > > If you haven't already, you may want to give > consideration to the connections from the battery to the > bus with the placement of the shunt. > > Again, if anyone has a good way to cover the shunt > (pictures), it would be greatly appreciated and no doubt > helpful to many. > > Good luck, Nick > > -------- Nick Leonard RV-10 (40015) Finish > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280825#280825 > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > >


    Message 24


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    Time: 05:13:52 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wiring Trutrak Auto Trim and TCW Safety Trim together
    From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
    May not help, but if you go to the Trio web site you can find (I think it's in the Pro Pilot manual) how they recommend hooking up auto trim. Something to keep in mind: should you have a trim runaway you'll need to pull both the trim and autopilot power, then sort out which one is the problem. For this reason, I've placed pullable breakers for them side by side, right in front of the pilot. But a plus, if the trim switch sticks on, you can pull the trim power, and still have trim via the autopilot. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280861#280861


    Message 25


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    Time: 06:05:50 PM PST US
    From: "Rick Lark" <jrlark@bmts.com>
    Subject: Re: Wing Kit
    Tom, are you going slow build or quick build?? Rick ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Koelzer" <40950@rv10.net> Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 5:09 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing Kit > > BTW, just ordered wing kit - Vans said 12 weeks delivery. > > Tom > #40950 Tail Cone - priming > Crestview, FL > > do not archive > > On Jan 9, 2010, at 7:45 AM, Rick Lark wrote: > >> Hi guys >> >> I'm starting to think about ordering the wing kit and would like to >> peruse the contents or list of parts as shipped by Vans. Where can I >> find what is actually included in this kit?? >> >> I've looked through the Van's web site but must be missing it. Thx >> >> Rick >> #40956 >> Southampton, Ont >> >> >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> >> http://forums.matronics.com >> >> http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> >> >> > > >


    Message 26


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    Time: 06:41:42 PM PST US
    From: "g.combs" <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
    Subject: Re: Wiring Trutrak Auto Trim and TCW Safety Trim together
    The trutrak auto trim should work fine with the TCW Saftey trim. The auto trim is wired in right at the pitch servo. Geoff Sent from my iPhone Geoff On Jan 9, 2010, at 2:24 PM, Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com > wrote: > > > > I am trying to figure out if Auto Trim works with Safety Trim (I > assume so). > If so, how is the trim switch and trim motor wired in? That is, is > the Auto Trim module connected on the switch side or the motor side > of the Safety Trim module. > > This is clearly a question for the 2 vendors but it's the weekend > and was hoping someone may know the answers. > > Bill "staring at too many schematics for too long" Watson > >


    Message 27


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    Time: 06:42:47 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: engine break in period
    From: ricksked@cox.net
    DJ .....did you move to the east coast??? Darn I would have tried to miss the ADIZ......you can't even "fall" through that can ya?? How's the 8 doin? No ground loops happening anymore I hope. Rick ------Original Message------ From: cjay Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com ReplyTo: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Jan 9, 2010 2:14 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: engine break in period speckter(at)comcast.net wrote: > Another option is to put a hood on your engine like the engine overhaul > places do. I barrowed one from my local engine builder. Then I did a full > power ground run with the plane tied to a tree/truck/heavy object for 3 or > more hours until the CHT's start to drop. This greatly enhances the break > in. > > Gary Specketer > > -- I'm not sure what an engine hood is, but I was thinking about constructing a simple sheet metal scoop (to simulate the upper cowl) held in place with bungee cords so I don't have to hassle with taking the cowling on and off. But I think this will only be good for the ground run up suggested in the lycoming service letter that Pascal sent. For the flight test I'll have to follow Deems recommendation but I'm doubtful the tower will give the flexibility since I'm in the Washington ADIZ. cjay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280845#280845 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T


    Message 28


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    Time: 06:46:54 PM PST US
    From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
    Subject: Loehle Wonderfil and Poly Fiber Smooth and Prime, No Bonding.
    I had built up my cowl the old fashioned way with epoxy and microballoons a nd sanded it level with a profiling bar. This took a lot of work as there a re not pinholes in the cowl there are meteor impacks and craters in the cen ter of each Nomex honey comb cell. In the areas where there is no sandwitch core material on the cowl=2C I filled the pinholes with Loehle Wonderfil. I also opted to do a one over the entire surface with the wonderfil the mic ro. I asked the nice lady=2C Sandy=2C at Loehle whether my remaining half gallo n of UV Smooth and Prime would conflict with Wonderfil=2C because I had a h alf gallon left over from the cabin top and the windshield fairing(Which it worked wonderfully and bonds like gainbusters). I never used the Wonderfil in the cabin top or windshield faring. Sandy said that is what many guys d o. The answer was no known conflict. The Loehle manual says that no sanding is needed post Wonderfil whipe off. I srayed my UV smooth and Prime today=2C two light coats. When I started sa nding it was obvious the two material did not bond. Pieces of UV S&P flaked off. I guess I am the lucky one who found it...difficult to believe I am s o fortunate. Just to confirm=2C I scratched the Smooth and Prime so the underlying struc ture was visible and then applied a strong stream of air from the compresso r and watched the Smooth and Prime flake off the Cowl. I think my arms are going to fall off tomorrow. The joy is in the journey! Hummm? John Gonzalez


    Message 29


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    Time: 07:36:32 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wing Kit
    From: Tom Koelzer <40950@rv10.net>
    Slow build. I was sort of shocked it would be that long. I got the impression everyone wants wings at the same time. Tom #40950 Tail Cone do not archive On Jan 9, 2010, at 8:00 PM, Rick Lark wrote: > > Tom, are you going slow build or quick build?? > > Rick


    Message 30


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    Time: 07:43:54 PM PST US
    From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: engine break in period
    since I'm in the Washington ADIZ. Ouch! Hard to believe they will let you do the Phase 1 in that airspace. The requirement as I know it is that it needs to be over a none congested (on the ground) area. I need to drive near 1 hour to go to the airport that qualifies as I am in the Los Angeles area and it sure is congested around here. On a separate note- but the same topic my engine builder ran the engine for 1.7 hours- it sure isn't a breakin but I will try to do my flight early (colder) and do the minimal necessary (read to assure I feel confortable) with the taxi test etc.. I know Deems had issue in Arizona with an extended wait in heat to get going and that resulted in issues for him, so I'm am taking a lesson from Deems and will try to avoid warmer weather as much as possible, which at the pace I'm going at we might get past the global warming and enter the ice age again so it wont be an issue anyway. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "cjay" <cgfinney@yahoo.com> Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 2:14 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: engine break in period > > > speckter(at)comcast.net wrote: >> Another option is to put a hood on your engine like the engine overhaul >> places do. I barrowed one from my local engine builder. Then I did a >> full >> power ground run with the plane tied to a tree/truck/heavy object for 3 >> or >> more hours until the CHT's start to drop. This greatly enhances the >> break >> in. >> >> Gary Specketer >> >> -- > > > I'm not sure what an engine hood is, but I was thinking about constructing > a simple sheet metal scoop (to simulate the upper cowl) held in place with > bungee cords so I don't have to hassle with taking the cowling on and off. > But I think this will only be good for the ground run up suggested in the > lycoming service letter that Pascal sent. > > For the flight test I'll have to follow Deems recommendation but I'm > doubtful the tower will give the flexibility since I'm in the Washington > ADIZ. > > cjay > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280845#280845 > > >


    Message 31


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    Time: 09:01:18 PM PST US
    From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com>
    Subject: door handle & mechanism
    I can't be the first to declare the Van's door handle and mechanism a tota l RPITA.......although not an engineer..........even I could design a mouse trap better than this. After sanding the powder coat off of the shaft hand le=2C the spring is still too small to move on the shaft and make the mecha nism work. I thought bringing in my Saturday night consulting engineer Jac k (Daniels) would help but we finally gave up tonight. Maybe a bigger hamm er tomorrow will bring success.


    Message 32


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    Time: 09:37:16 PM PST US
    From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
    Subject: Re: door handle & mechanism
    Try filing out the area in the shaft that the pin travels up and down in... that's where mine bound up. Jeff Carpenter 40304 On Jan 9, 2010, at 8:57 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever wrote: > I can't be the first to declare the Van's door handle and mechanism > a total RPITA.......although not an engineer..........even I could > design a mousetrap better than this. After sanding the powder coat > off of the shaft handle, the spring is still too small to move on > the shaft and make the mechanism work. I thought bringing in my > Saturday night consulting engineer Jack (Daniels) would help but we > finally gave up tonight. Maybe a bigger hammer tomorrow will bring > success. > >


    Message 33


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    Time: 09:55:21 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: door handle & mechanism
    From: "rvdave" <davidbf@centurytel.net>
    I thought maybe they gave me the wrong sized spring but I was able to unwind(?) the spring a little to fit the shaft and now works fine. -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280881#280881


    Message 34


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    Time: 09:58:04 PM PST US
    From: Don McDonald <building_partner@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: door handle & mechanism
    Spring for the cnc machined handles.... they work perfectly, are a direct V ans replacement, and they look WAY better. Don McDonald --- On Sat, 1/9/10, Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com> wrote: From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com> Subject: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism -I can't be the first to declare the Van's door handle and mechanism a to tal RPITA.......although not an engineer..........even I could design a mou setrap better than this.- After sanding the powder coat off of the shaft handle, the spring is still too small to move on the shaft and make the mec hanism work.- I thought bringing in my Saturday night consulting engineer -Jack (Daniels)-would help but we finally gave up tonight.- Maybe a b igger hammer tomorrow will bring success. =0A=0A=0A


    Message 35


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    Time: 10:04:11 PM PST US
    From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com>
    Subject: door handle & mechanism
    thanks From: jeff@westcottpress.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism Try filing out the area in the shaft that the pin travels up and down in... that's where mine bound up. Jeff Carpenter 40304 On Jan 9=2C 2010=2C at 8:57 PM=2C Roxanne and Mike Lefever wrote: I can't be the first to declare the Van's door handle and mechanism a tota l RPITA.......although not an engineer..........even I could design a mouse trap better than this. After sanding the powder coat off of the shaft hand le=2C the spring is still too small to move on the shaft and make the mecha nism work. I thought bringing in my Saturday night consulting engineer Jac k (Daniels) would help but we finally gave up tonight. Maybe a bigger hamm er tomorrow will bring success. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con tribution




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