Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:51 AM - Door seal question (Walt Fuller)
2. 07:30 AM - Shunt (Chris Hukill)
3. 07:53 AM - Re: Door seal question (Pascal)
4. 09:35 AM - Re: engine break in period (Matt Dralle)
5. 11:42 AM - Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl (woxofswa)
6. 12:00 PM - Re: door handle & mechanism (Les Kearney)
7. 12:50 PM - Re: Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl (Robin Marks)
8. 03:54 PM - Re: Door seal question (Vernon Smith)
9. 06:03 PM - Re: engine break in period (cjay)
10. 06:15 PM - Re: Re: engine break in period (Linn Walters)
11. 06:56 PM - Re: Re: engine break in period (Patrick Thyssen)
12. 07:41 PM - Re: Re: engine break in period (Pascal)
13. 08:06 PM - Brake fluid (Dave Leikam)
14. 09:12 PM - Re: Brake fluid (Les Kearney)
15. 09:48 PM - Re: Brake fluid (Pascal)
16. 10:38 PM - Re: Brake fluid (Albert Gardner)
17. 11:12 PM - Re: Brake fluid (Les Kearney)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Door seal question |
Hi folks...Well, we strayed away from Van's game plan and are paying for it again.
We decided to go with different door seals. Payed 200 bucks for 25 feet of
the stuff and discovered the doors would not shut. [Embarassed] We were concerned
with the quality of the provided seals but mostly the color ( dark cream
to tan?) was not a good match for the interior. We were hoping for something
gray or black. Van's door seals measured 1/2" diameter and about 1/16" thick.
The stuff we bought was 5/8" diam. and about 1/8" thick.
Bone head play I know. Anyone know where we can get something comparable in size
to Van's seal but in a different color? Need something to cover all that nice,
yellow hard glue decorating the edge of our fabric covered doors
:?
Thanks...
I attached a picture of the seals we used
____________________________________________
Walt fuller
W_fuller1@verizon.net
Build # 404584
Working on glassing the bottom of the windscreen
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280887#280887
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/door_seals_415.jpg
Message 2
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You can eliminate the shunt and use a hall effect instead. This is
basically a small coil, thru which the wire passes and measures the
current flow. I plan on using one on the feed to the main bus. This
will tell me the amount of amps I am using. If I lose the main alt, I
can refer to it to load-shed to get under the 20 amps the stby alt can
carry, without discharging the battery. Grand Rapids sells the hall
effect, as does Spruce. I have one on back order from Spruce. The hall
effect works on the Dynon EMS, as well as just about any other
electronic EMS system. You could also have a second one that monitors
the battery charge/ discharge, but I don't think that's necessary with a
dual alternator setup.
Chris Hukill
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Door seal question |
The doors are a real bummer in general, make sure they fit well before the
seals than these should make it much easier for you as I believe they form
fit to the doors. http://www.aviationtechproducts.com/html/accessories.html
(look for RV-10 door seals)
I used the Vans seals so I can't speak for quality or how well they work.
Best of success with this.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Walt Fuller" <w_fuller1@verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 2:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Door seal question
>
> Hi folks...Well, we strayed away from Van's game plan and are paying for
> it again. We decided to go with different door seals. Payed 200 bucks for
> 25 feet of the stuff and discovered the doors would not shut.
> [Embarassed] We were concerned with the quality of the provided seals but
> mostly the color ( dark cream to tan?) was not a good match for the
> interior. We were hoping for something gray or black. Van's door seals
> measured 1/2" diameter and about 1/16" thick. The stuff we bought was 5/8"
> diam. and about 1/8" thick.
>
> Bone head play I know. Anyone know where we can get something comparable
> in size to Van's seal but in a different color? Need something to cover
> all that nice, yellow hard glue decorating the edge of our fabric covered
> doors
> :?
> Thanks...
> I attached a picture of the seals we used
>
> ____________________________________________
> Walt fuller
> W_fuller1@verizon.net
> Build # 404584
>
> Working on glassing the bottom of the windscreen
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280887#280887
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/door_seals_415.jpg
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
When I ordered the IO-390 for my RV-8 from Aero Sport, I had them extend bench
run-in to about 11.5 hours. Cost about $1000 extra. But, the engine is now well
past the most critical break-in phases. I plan to use mineral oil and high
power settings for the first 50 flight hours, but proper break-in should be
much less of a worry.
$.02
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Finishing Up...
At 10:46 AM 1/9/2010 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I came
across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break
in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
>
>A couple of the highlights:
>
>1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay with
it for the first 50 hours.
>
>2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground running time
to a minimum.
>
>It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective pressure (BMEP)
and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder wall and piston
rings.
>
>I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting out
and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the pattern?
>
>cjay
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280820#280820
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
Robin,
Thanks to you, Deems, and others, for saving me a ton of time and money.
You early pioneers are a godsend to those of us who trail.
I try and re-focus to the KISS concept and sticking to the tried and true.
(and then my mind starts to wander and I contemplate things like "Lambo'ing" the
doors).
Hope to see you again at the "nest".
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280927#280927
Message 6
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| Subject: | door handle & mechanism |
Hi
Be careful when filing out the slot, do as little as possible. You will get
a little "slop" in the handle movement as the pin can now wiggle a bit in
the slot. I think you want to keep this to a minimum.
I also found that a little white grease goes a long, long way to making the
mechanisms move easily and smoothly. There is a *huge* amount of internal
friction in the mechanism. The grease deals with this effectively - or so I
found. I put it on the tubes, gears and rails etc.
Cheers
Les
#40643
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roxanne and Mike
Lefever
Sent: January-09-10 11:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism
thanks
_____
From: jeff@westcottpress.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism
Try filing out the area in the shaft that the pin travels up and down in...
that's where mine bound up.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Jan 9, 2010, at 8:57 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever wrote:
I can't be the first to declare the Van's door handle and mechanism a total
RPITA.......although not an engineer..........even I could design a
mousetrap better than this. After sanding the powder coat off of the shaft
handle, the spring is still too small to move on the shaft and make the
mechanism work. I thought bringing in my Saturday night consulting engineer
Jack (Daniels) would help but we finally gave up tonight. Maybe a bigger
hammer tomorrow will bring success.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl |
Thanks Myron for the nice comments, I was just looking at your business
card yesterday. Yes Plans built is a really smart choice. There are
definitely mods I would do again like an OH Console, Door Seals, Andair
Fuel Valve, Wheel Pant Extensions, Replacement Front Axel, flexible
braded break lines and probably a few others but for the most part Van
designs a heck of an aircraft as is.
As far as flying the -10 I have been putting a lot of hours recently for
both business & pleasure (over 120 TT now). Within the last 10 days I
did my SBP to LA commute and back, a 2 day trip to Las Vegas to attend
CES using O2 for the first time (4 hour round trip vs. 16 hour drive) at
12,500 burning 12.5 GPH getting about 16 MPG. A round trip to Monterey
for a 4 hour family reunion (the best type!) and a return leg back to
LA. The RV-10 makes for easy & comfortable cross country and regional
flights adding a level of life improving richness the nicest car can
never match.
Robin
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 11:40 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 with James Aircraft Holy Cowl
Robin,
Thanks to you, Deems, and others, for saving me a ton of time and money.
You early pioneers are a godsend to those of us who trail.
I try and re-focus to the KISS concept and sticking to the tried and
true.
(and then my mind starts to wander and I contemplate things like
"Lambo'ing" the doors).
Hope to see you again at the "nest".
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280927#280927
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01/10/10 07:35:00
Message 8
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| Subject: | Door seal question |
Hi Walt=2C
Have you looked into what Deems used for door seals? I followed his lead an
d have been very happy with the results. Here is a link to my experience wi
th them http://www.aviationstop.com/search/label/Doors
Vern Smith (#324) experince
do not archive
> Subject: RV10-List: Door seal question
> From: w_fuller1@verizon.net
> Date: Sun=2C 10 Jan 2010 02:48:09 -0800
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Hi folks...Well=2C we strayed away from Van's game plan and are paying fo
r it again. We decided to go with different door seals. Payed 200 bucks for
25 feet of the stuff and discovered the doors would not shut. [Embarassed
] We were concerned with the quality of the provided seals but mostly the c
olor ( dark cream to tan?) was not a good match for the interior. We were h
oping for something gray or black. Van's door seals measured 1/2" diameter
and about 1/16" thick. The stuff we bought was 5/8" diam. and about 1/8" th
ick.
>
> Bone head play I know. Anyone know where we can get something comparable
in size to Van's seal but in a different color? Need something to cover all
that nice=2C yellow hard glue decorating the edge of our fabric covered do
ors
> :?
> Thanks...
> I attached a picture of the seals we used
>
> ____________________________________________
> Walt fuller
> W_fuller1@verizon.net
> Build # 404584
>
> Working on glassing the bottom of the windscreen
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280887#280887
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/door_seals_415.jpg
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
Matt,
That's all well and good, but I have an overhauled that is untested to date and
integrated in an untested airframe, which is not the ideal flight test situation.
I'm wondering why I can't run it on the ground full power for a couple hours
myself? As long as I can maintain good pressure cooling (from the cowl or
makeshift cooling scoop) and watch the oil temp and CHT's closely. Anyone have
any suggestions how to tie the airframe down during for this type of run-up?
cjay
Matt Dralle wrote:
> When I ordered the IO-390 for my RV-8 from Aero Sport, I had them extend bench
run-in to about 11.5 hours. Cost about $1000 extra. But, the engine is now
well past the most critical break-in phases. I plan to use mineral oil and high
power settings for the first 50 flight hours, but proper break-in should be
much less of a worry.
>
> >
> >
> > Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future) I
came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break
in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
> >
> > A couple of the highlights:
> >
> > 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period. Stay with
it for the first 50 hours.
> >
> > 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground running
time to a minimum.
> >
> > It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective pressure
(BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder wall and piston
rings.
> >
> > I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just starting
out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around the pattern?
> >
> > cjay
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 80820#280820
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280967#280967
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
cjay wrote:
> <cgfinney@yahoo.com>
>
> Matt,
>
> That's all well and good, but I have an overhauled that
> is untested to date and integrated in an untested
> airframe, which is not the ideal flight test situation.
But it's the most common.
> I'm wondering why I can't run it on the ground full power
> for a couple hours myself? As long as I can maintain
> good pressure cooling (from the cowl or makeshift cooling
> scoop) and watch the oil temp and CHT's closely.
This is the problematic part .... you just can't get enough
air through the engine running at high power on the ground.
Anyone
> have any suggestions how to tie the airframe down during
> for this type of run-up?
If you're bound and determined ..... I'd tie a bridle to the
steps and around something that won't move.
I really hope you decide to just fly it like most do.
Linn
>
> cjay
>
>
> Matt Dralle wrote:
>> When I ordered the IO-390 for my RV-8 from Aero Sport,
>> I had them extend bench run-in to about 11.5 hours.
>> Cost about $1000 extra. But, the engine is now well
>> past the most critical break-in phases. I plan to use
>> mineral oil and high power settings for the first 50
>> flight hours, but proper break-in should be much less
>> of a worry.
>>
>>>
>>> Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the
>>> too distant future) I came across an old reprint from
>>> an AOPA magazine about steps for the engine break in
>>> period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
>>>
>>> A couple of the highlights:
>>>
>>> 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the
>>> break-in period. Stay with it for the first 50
>>> hours.
>>>
>>> 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible
>>> and avoid ground running time to a minimum.
>>>
>>> It goes into a description of the importance of high
>>> mean effective pressure (BMEP) and both steps above
>>> helps to properly seat the cylinder wall and piston
>>> rings.
>>>
>>> I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when
>>> you are just starting out and have to do quite a bit
>>> of ground runs and slow flights around the pattern?
>>>
>>> cjay
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p
>>> 80820#280820
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280967#280967
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
How about sending it to one of the good engine ohvers and let them put it i
n a test cell. It'll cost you some, but now would be better then latter and
have to replace your cylinders. Lycoming has a process of testing or runni
ng a new engine, You would do good to read those before you do anything.
ECI, Continental, RAM they all have a break-in program that you can get aho
ld of just by asking them or go on line. Or the back of your engine ovh/ ma
intenace manual.
-
- And I can say- they work better then running you engine on the ground
for long period of time.
-Patrick Thyssen
my2 cents from experience.
--- On Sun, 1/10/10, cjay <cgfinney@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: cjay <cgfinney@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: engine break in period
Matt,
That's all well and good, but I have an overhauled that is untested to date
and integrated in an untested airframe, which is not the ideal flight test
situation. I'm wondering why I can't run it on the ground full power for a
couple hours myself?- As long as I can maintain good pressure cooling (f
rom the cowl or makeshift cooling scoop) and watch the oil temp and CHT's c
losely.- Anyone have any- suggestions how to tie the airframe down duri
ng for this type of run-up?
cjay
Matt Dralle wrote:
> When I ordered the IO-390 for my RV-8 from Aero Sport, I had them extend
bench run-in to about 11.5 hours.- Cost about $1000 extra.- But, the en
gine is now well past the most critical break-in phases.- I plan to use m
ineral oil and high power settings for the first 50 flight hours, but prope
r break-in should be much less of a worry.
>
> >
> >
> > Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant future
) I came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps for the en
gine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine).
> >
> > A couple of the highlights:
> >
> > 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period.--
-Stay with it for the first 50 hours.
> >
> > 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground ru
nning time to a minimum.-
> >
> > It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective pre
ssure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the cylinder wall
and piston rings.
> >
> > I guess my question is- how can you achieve (2) when you are just sta
rting out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights around
the pattern?
> >
> > cjay
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 80820#280820
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280967#280967
le, List Admin.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: engine break in period |
but I have an overhauled that is untested to date and integrated in an
untested airframe,
now that's concerning, breakin is the least of your issues if you don't even
know if the engine runs.. or am I misunderstanding the "untested" piece.. if
you mean experimental, it's tested, heck I have a Eci in a overhaouled
engine I know it was tested for 1.5 hours and everything was signed off as
being safe, as a minimum make sure the engine is tested.
As I mentioned before follow the Lycoming steps, 100's have gone before us
without an issue.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "cjay" <cgfinney@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 6:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: engine break in period
>
> Matt,
>
> That's all well and good, but I have an overhauled that is untested to
> date and integrated in an untested airframe, which is not the ideal flight
> test situation. I'm wondering why I can't run it on the ground full power
> for a couple hours myself? As long as I can maintain good pressure
> cooling (from the cowl or makeshift cooling scoop) and watch the oil temp
> and CHT's closely. Anyone have any suggestions how to tie the airframe
> down during for this type of run-up?
>
> cjay
>
>
> Matt Dralle wrote:
>> When I ordered the IO-390 for my RV-8 from Aero Sport, I had them extend
>> bench run-in to about 11.5 hours. Cost about $1000 extra. But, the
>> engine is now well past the most critical break-in phases. I plan to use
>> mineral oil and high power settings for the first 50 flight hours, but
>> proper break-in should be much less of a worry.
>>
>> >
>> >
>> > Thinking about my first flight (hopefully not in the too distant
>> > future) I came across an old reprint from an AOPA magazine about steps
>> > for the engine break in period (for any new, rebuilt, or overhauled
>> > engine).
>> >
>> > A couple of the highlights:
>> >
>> > 1. non-compounded oils should be used during the break-in period.
>> > Stay with it for the first 50 hours.
>> >
>> > 2. Use full rated power and RPM as much as possible and avoid ground
>> > running time to a minimum.
>> >
>> > It goes into a description of the importance of high mean effective
>> > pressure (BMEP) and both steps above helps to properly seat the
>> > cylinder wall and piston rings.
>> >
>> > I guess my question is how can you achieve (2) when you are just
>> > starting out and have to do quite a bit of ground runs and slow flights
>> > around the pattern?
>> >
>> > cjay
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Read this topic online here:
>> >
>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 80820#280820
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280967#280967
>
>
>
Message 13
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I have been unable to find information on the type of brake fluid and
method of filling and bleeding the brake system.
Advice appreciated.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
Message 14
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Dave
This link shows how to bleed RV brakes. I have't done this but hope to try
in a couple of weeks. It doesn't seem too complicated.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=33493
I bought a gallon of Aeroshell 31 from the oilstore
(http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/aerfluid31ga.html). I selected this as it
has a higher flash point than normal brake fluid. It is not available from
Shell in Canada so I had to buy online.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: January-10-10 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake fluid
I have been unable to find information on the type of brake fluid and method
of filling and bleeding the brake system.
Advice appreciated.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
Message 15
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I did it this way, bought the can from Harbor freight and had it all
done within about 15 minutes. I did it so fast I thought I did something
wrong, one item I did come across is the pilot to co-pilot tubes had
some air in it, but in time it raised up to the reservoir and is long
gone, so if that happens to you don't worry just keep filling up the
reservoir and the air will rise.
I just bought Aeroshell 41 brake fluid from Aircraft spruce,
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/aeroshell_bflu.php- pint
is more than plenty.
Pascal
From: Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 9:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake fluid
Dave
This link shows how to bleed RV brakes. I have't done this but hope to
try in a couple of weeks. It doesn't seem too complicated.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=33493
I bought a gallon of Aeroshell 31 from the oilstore
(http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/aerfluid31ga.html). I selected this as
it has a higher flash point than normal brake fluid. It is not available
from Shell in Canada so I had to buy online.
Cheers
Les
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: January-10-10 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake fluid
I have been unable to find information on the type of brake fluid and
method of filling and bleeding the brake system.
Advice appreciated.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 16
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If you put some clear tubing on one of those plastic hose adaptors (tube to
pipe, ACS pg 117) and screw it into the top of your fluid reservoir, you can
catch the overflow and easily see when the trapped bubbles stop coming out.
Eliminates spillage at the reservoir.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
N991RV
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 10:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake fluid
Dave
This link shows how to bleed RV brakes. I have't done this but hope to try
in a couple of weeks. It doesn't seem too complicated.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=33493
I bought a gallon of Aeroshell 31 from the oilstore
(http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/aerfluid31ga.html). I selected this as it
has a higher flash point than normal brake fluid. It is not available from
Shell in Canada so I had to buy online.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: January-10-10 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake fluid
I have been unable to find information on the type of brake fluid and method
of filling and bleeding the brake system.
Advice appreciated.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 17
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Hi Again
Have a look at this thread and then decide which spec of brake fluid to use.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=260147
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=260147&sid=020e52c3617a6b3e4eba
5dcf3a02c544> &sid=020e52c3617a6b3e4eba5dcf3a02c544
Aeroshell 41 is a Mil Spec 5606 grade of fluid that has a much lower flash
point than Aeroshell 31. Personally, I ike the extra security of the higher
flash point fluid. A gallon is way overkill but it was the smallest quantity
I could buy (and the price difference was minimal).
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: January-10-10 10:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brake fluid
I did it this way, bought the can from Harbor freight and had it all done
within about 15 minutes. I did it so fast I thought I did something wrong,
one item I did come across is the pilot to co-pilot tubes had some air in
it, but in time it raised up to the reservoir and is long gone, so if that
happens to you don't worry just keep filling up the reservoir and the air
will rise.
I just bought Aeroshell 41 brake fluid from Aircraft spruce,
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/aeroshell_bflu.php- pint is
more than plenty.
Pascal
From: Les Kearney <mailto:kearney@shaw.ca>
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 9:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake fluid
Dave
This link shows how to bleed RV brakes. I have't done this but hope to try
in a couple of weeks. It doesn't seem too complicated.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=33493
I bought a gallon of Aeroshell 31 from the oilstore
(http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/aerfluid31ga.html). I selected this as it
has a higher flash point than normal brake fluid. It is not available from
Shell in Canada so I had to buy online.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: January-10-10 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake fluid
I have been unable to find information on the type of brake fluid and method
of filling and bleeding the brake system.
Advice appreciated.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
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