---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 01/13/10: 41 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:24 AM - Re: ramp check (David Maib) 2. 06:21 AM - rear spar caps (JHearnsberger) 3. 06:34 AM - Re: rear spar caps (Tim Olson) 4. 06:35 AM - Re: rear spar caps (Kelly McMullen) 5. 06:45 AM - Re: rear spar caps (Perry, Phil) 6. 07:50 AM - Re: Re: IO 540 motor oil? (Pascal) 7. 09:51 AM - Re: rear spar caps (John Cumins) 8. 10:47 AM - Re: Wing Kit (Brian Steeves) 9. 12:02 PM - Cabin Cover Question (Bob Leffler) 10. 12:13 PM - Re: Cabin Cover Question (Seano) 11. 12:27 PM - Re: Cabin Cover Question (Jeff Carpenter) 12. 12:33 PM - Re: Cabin Cover Question (Bob Leffler) 13. 12:43 PM - Re: Cabin Cover Question (Seano) 14. 01:06 PM - Re: rear spar caps (JHearnsberger) 15. 01:32 PM - Re: rear spar caps (Albert Gardner) 16. 02:32 PM - Re: Re: Wing Kit (Rick Lark) 17. 03:08 PM - Re: rear spar caps (JHearnsberger) 18. 03:23 PM - Re: Re: Wing Kit (Bill Mauledriver Watson) 19. 03:30 PM - Re: Re: rear spar caps (Jeff Carpenter) 20. 03:50 PM - FWF Kit (Jeff Carpenter) 21. 04:09 PM - Re: FWF Kit (Pascal) 22. 04:37 PM - Re: rear spar caps (JHearnsberger) 23. 04:46 PM - Re: FWF Kit (Chris Colohan) 24. 04:57 PM - Re: FWF Kit (Rick) 25. 05:22 PM - Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (Deems Davis) 26. 05:42 PM - oil adapter spacer (Dave Leikam) 27. 05:52 PM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (Don McDonald) 28. 05:59 PM - Re: First Flight (rv10flyer) 29. 06:07 PM - Re: oil adapter spacer (Don McDonald) 30. 06:08 PM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (ricksked@cox.net) 31. 06:19 PM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (John Cumins) 32. 06:22 PM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (John Cumins) 33. 06:39 PM - Re: oil adapter spacer (Rick) 34. 06:40 PM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (Rick) 35. 06:53 PM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (DLM) 36. 07:13 PM - Re: Re: rear spar caps (Kelly McMullen) 37. 07:38 PM - Re: Re: rear spar caps (Kelly McMullen) 38. 08:17 PM - Re: rear spar caps (JHearnsberger) 39. 08:49 PM - Re: Re: rear spar caps (Kelly McMullen) 40. 09:24 PM - Re: Re: rear spar caps (Seano) 41. 11:11 PM - Re: Re: rear spar caps (Jeff Carpenter) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:24:02 AM PST US From: David Maib Subject: Re: RV10-List: ramp check My Phase 1 operating limitations state in Para. 1 that the ops lims must be carried in the aircraft at all times. Then, the first para. of my Phase II operating limitations list all of the phase 1 limitations that are still in effect for Phase II. This includes Para. 1 of my phase 1 limitations. I have a nice POH (plagiarized from others on this list ^_^) but my DAR told that while it is a good thing to have, it is not required. David Maib 40559 Flying On Jan 12, 2010, at 11:28 PM, ricksked@cox.net wrote: David, You need the operating limitations after the test period? I swore that the POH requirement didn't exclude experimentals but seemed inclusive to all aircraft Now I have to re read the book...and I don't have to use the restroom!! Rick S Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From: David Maib Subject: Re: RV10-List: ramp check I don't think there is any requirement for a POH for EAB aircraft. However, you must have your Operating Limitations that were issued by the DAR, on board. I don't think that is in the FAR's but should be in your Operating Limitations. David Maib 40559 Flying On Jan 12, 2010, at 9:24 PM, Rick wrote: Hey Doc, I was reading the FAR=92s last night about this just for grits and shins. I understand you need your pilot cert, medical, W&B and a POH. I could not find anything else. My Weight and Balance is on my AFS -3500, I don=92t calc one on paper, just plug in the numbers on the EFIS=85.that may be a good question in the future. I do have W & B info on paper =85many of them from flight test but the EFIS is my main way of computing it=85Need to make sure I plug it in on every flight now too huh? Rick S. N246RS From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 6:04 PM Subject: RV10-List: ramp check While taxiing up for fuel at DVT I was ramp checked by a FAA rep.He had me produce my medical, pilot certificate,flight instructor certificate,registration,airworthiness certificate,weight and balance info and signed by the FAA flight manual-all was in order in the SR-22 I was flying.Do are experimentals require an approved manual ? Must they be signed by the FAA? http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http:// www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http:// www.matronics.com/contribution =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:21:08 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: rear spar caps From: "JHearnsberger" I clamped, marked, and cut the rear spar caps outside of my line using a band saw. My cuts had a couple of gradual waves in them. I worked them out with an air belt sander and file by clamping the two pieces back to back to try to get them even. It is not that big of a deal other than I would like to get as much insight as possible while starting out. The cut is not perfect, but will it be ok? Please see attached images. Also, my air belt sander uses 60 to 120 grit belts. Is this fine enough for deburring aluminum? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281268#281268 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0107_114.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0108_237.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0109_150.jpg ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:34:23 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: rear spar caps The cuts are probably straight enough, but 60 and 120 grit is not fine enough to do good deburring. Run those pieces over a scotchbrite wheel until you see no nicks at all. They will look mirror smooth. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD do not archive JHearnsberger wrote: > > I clamped, marked, and cut the rear spar caps outside of my line using a band saw. > > My cuts had a couple of gradual waves in them. I worked them out with an air belt sander and file by clamping the two pieces back to back to try to get them even. > > It is not that big of a deal other than I would like to get as much insight as possible while starting out. The cut is not perfect, but will it be ok? Please see attached images. > > Also, my air belt sander uses 60 to 120 grit belts. Is this fine enough for deburring aluminum? > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281268#281268 > > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0107_114.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0108_237.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0109_150.jpg > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:35:57 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: rear spar caps From: Kelly McMullen Follow up your sanding with a pass of the Scotchbrite wheel. It will get you a nice smooth finish. I wouldn't worry too much about your cut. Kelly 40866, QB Wings/Fuse On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 7:20 AM, JHearnsberger wrote: > jakehearnsberger@gmail.com> > > I clamped, marked, and cut the rear spar caps outside of my line using a > band saw. > > My cuts had a couple of gradual waves in them. I worked them out with an > air belt sander and file by clamping the two pieces back to back to try to > get them even. > > It is not that big of a deal other than I would like to get as much insight > as possible while starting out. The cut is not perfect, but will it be ok? > Please see attached images. > > Also, my air belt sander uses 60 to 120 grit belts. Is this fine enough for > deburring aluminum? > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281268#281268 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0107_114.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0108_237.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0109_150.jpg > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:45:50 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: rear spar caps From: "Perry, Phil" TG9va3MgZ29vZC4gSnVzdCBmaW5pc2ggdGhlbSBvZmYgd2l0aCBhIHNjb3RjaGJyaXRlIHdoZWVs LiAgDQoNCkkgdXNlIGEgMSIgd2hlZWwgIG9uIGEgZGllIGdyaW5kZXIuIFdvcmtzIGdyZWF0IG9u IHRob3NlIGVkZ2VzLiANCg0KUGhpbA0KDQoNCg0KLS0tLS0gT3JpZ2luYWwgTWVzc2FnZSAtLS0t LQ0KRnJvbTogSkhlYXJuc2JlcmdlciA8amFrZWhlYXJuc2JlcmdlckBnbWFpbC5jb20+DQpUbzog cnYxMC1saXN0QG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20gPHJ2MTAtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tPg0KU2VudDog V2VkIEphbiAxMyAwNjoyMDo0MCAyMDEwDQpTdWJqZWN0OiBSVjEwLUxpc3Q6IHJlYXIgc3BhciBj YXBzDQoNCi0tPiBSVjEwLUxpc3QgbWVzc2FnZSBwb3N0ZWQgYnk6ICJKSGVhcm5zYmVyZ2VyIiA8 amFrZWhlYXJuc2JlcmdlckBnbWFpbC5jb20+DQoNCkkgY2xhbXBlZCwgbWFya2VkLCBhbmQgY3V0 IHRoZSByZWFyIHNwYXIgY2FwcyBvdXRzaWRlIG9mIG15IGxpbmUgdXNpbmcgYSBiYW5kIHNhdy4N Cg0KTXkgY3V0cyBoYWQgYSBjb3VwbGUgb2YgZ3JhZHVhbCB3YXZlcyBpbiB0aGVtLiBJIHdvcmtl ZCB0aGVtIG91dCB3aXRoIGFuIGFpciBiZWx0IHNhbmRlciBhbmQgZmlsZSBieSBjbGFtcGluZyB0 aGUgdHdvIHBpZWNlcyBiYWNrIHRvIGJhY2sgdG8gdHJ5IHRvIGdldCB0aGVtIGV2ZW4uDQoNCkl0 IGlzIG5vdCB0aGF0IGJpZyBvZiBhIGRlYWwgb3RoZXIgdGhhbiBJIHdvdWxkIGxpa2UgdG8gZ2V0 IGFzIG11Y2ggaW5zaWdodCBhcyBwb3NzaWJsZSB3aGlsZSBzdGFydGluZyBvdXQuIFRoZSBjdXQg aXMgbm90IHBlcmZlY3QsIGJ1dCB3aWxsIGl0IGJlIG9rPyBQbGVhc2Ugc2VlIGF0dGFjaGVkIGlt YWdlcy4NCg0KQWxzbywgbXkgYWlyIGJlbHQgc2FuZGVyIHVzZXMgNjAgdG8gMTIwIGdyaXQgYmVs dHMuIElzIHRoaXMgZmluZSBlbm91Z2ggZm9yIGRlYnVycmluZyBhbHVtaW51bT8NCg0KDQoNCg0K UmVhZCB0aGlzIHRvcGljIG9ubGluZSBoZXJlOg0KDQpodHRwOi8vZm9ydW1zLm1hdHJvbmljcy5j b20vdmlld3RvcGljLnBocD9wPTI4MTI2OCMyODEyNjgNCg0KDQoNCg0KQXR0YWNobWVudHM6IA0K DQpodHRwOi8vZm9ydW1zLm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vL2ZpbGVzL2ltZ18wMTA3XzExNC5qcGcNCmh0 dHA6Ly9mb3J1bXMubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS8vZmlsZXMvaW1nXzAxMDhfMjM3LmpwZw0KaHR0cDov L2ZvcnVtcy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tLy9maWxlcy9pbWdfMDEwOV8xNTAuanBnDQoNCg0KDQoNCl8t PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09DQpfLT0gICAgICAgICAgLSBUaGUgUlYxMC1MaXN0IEVtYWlsIEZvcnVtIC0NCl8tPSBVc2Ug dGhlIE1hdHJvbmljcyBMaXN0IEZlYXR1cmVzIE5hdmlnYXRvciB0byBicm93c2UNCl8tPSB0aGUg bWFueSBMaXN0IHV0aWxpdGllcyBzdWNoIGFzIExpc3QgVW4vU3Vic2NyaXB0aW9uLA0KXy09IEFy Y2hpdmUgU2VhcmNoICYgRG93bmxvYWQsIDctRGF5IEJyb3dzZSwgQ2hhdCwgRkFRLA0KXy09IFBo b3Rvc2hhcmUsIGFuZCBtdWNoIG11Y2ggbW9yZToNCl8tPQ0KXy09ICAgLS0+IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cu bWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9OYXZpZ2F0b3I/UlYxMC1MaXN0DQpfLT0NCl8tPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09DQpfLT0gICAgICAg ICAgICAgICAtIE1BVFJPTklDUyBXRUIgRk9SVU1TIC0NCl8tPSBTYW1lIGdyZWF0IGNvbnRlbnQg YWxzbyBhdmFpbGFibGUgdmlhIHRoZSBXZWIgRm9ydW1zIQ0KXy09DQpfLT0gICAtLT4gaHR0cDov L2ZvcnVtcy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tDQpfLT0NCl8tPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09DQpfLT0gICAgICAgICAgICAgLSBMaXN0 IENvbnRyaWJ1dGlvbiBXZWIgU2l0ZSAtDQpfLT0gIFRoYW5rIHlvdSBmb3IgeW91ciBnZW5lcm91 cyBzdXBwb3J0IQ0KXy09ICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgLU1hdHQgRHJhbGxl LCBMaXN0IEFkbWluLg0KXy09ICAgLS0+IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9jb250cmli dXRpb24NCl8tPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09DQoNCg0KDQo ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:50:22 AM PST US From: "Pascal" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: IO 540 motor oil? Finally got out to the Eci page- http://www.eci.aero/pages/tech.aspx#breakin From: John Gonzalez Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 12:30 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: IO 540 motor oil? I spoke to Lycoming's Bart, He then spoke to the tech department. He said that the Cortec VC1-326 could be added to a 20w-50 mineral engine oil in a 1 to 10 ratio. I will be using a syringe to fill the two cylinders that lost the oil whan I removed the lower plugs. > Subject: RV10-List: Re: IO 540 motor oil? > From: Mikeabel@Pacbell.net > Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 11:03:16 -0800 > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > > > Per Ricksked if the engine is new you MUST use straight Mineral Oil per Lycoming's specs until "the oil consumption stabilizes". Get it from your local FBO, Spruce, or Chief Aircraft. Be sure to drain all of the preservative oil from the engine first. > > -------- > OSH '10 or Bust > Q/B - testing phase 1 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281189#281189 > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:51:30 AM PST US From: "John Cumins" Subject: RE: RV10-List: rear spar caps Jake those look just fine. You will find you will get the cut and finish next to the fine line skills will come back fast. Kind of like coloring book skills as a kid. What helps me get a nice straight edge is I use a 12 in disk sander that is mounted on my shop smith. With the table 90 degrees to the sanding disk I get a nice clean straight and square edge on material I am trying to make. Check Harbor Freight for a cheap table top 8-10 in disc sander there worth every penny. John G. Cumins 40864 Emp in primer mode -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JHearnsberger Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:21 AM Subject: RV10-List: rear spar caps I clamped, marked, and cut the rear spar caps outside of my line using a band saw. My cuts had a couple of gradual waves in them. I worked them out with an air belt sander and file by clamping the two pieces back to back to try to get them even. It is not that big of a deal other than I would like to get as much insight as possible while starting out. The cut is not perfect, but will it be ok? Please see attached images. Also, my air belt sander uses 60 to 120 grit belts. Is this fine enough for deburring aluminum? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281268#281268 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0107_114.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0108_237.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0109_150.jpg ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 10:47:43 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Wing Kit From: "Brian Steeves" Vans is way behind on the wing kits. I ordered a slow build end of August and just received a phone call today that it should ship next week. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281305#281305 ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 12:02:42 PM PST US From: "Bob Leffler" Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Question On 43-7 requires the bending the top portion of the F-1042 bulkhead side channel. My question is how difficult to take the cabin cover off after making this bend? I'm not ready to put the cabin cover on for good yet. There is a reference on 43-10 that states the cover is on for good. It appears to me that it would be darn impossible to take the cover off once the bulkhead is bent to conform to the cabin cover. I'm just looking for conformation or denial of my suspicion. Thanks, Bob ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 12:13:11 PM PST US From: Seano Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Question It's not bad. I've done it a thousand times lately. You just have to set one side in and pulltje other side around the vended channel. Go for it! Sent from my iPhone On Jan 13, 2010, at 13:03, "Bob Leffler" wrote: > On 43-7 requires the bending the top portion of the F-1042 bulkhead > side channel. My question is how difficult to take the cabin cover > off after making this bend? I=99m not ready to put the cabin cover o > n for good yet. There is a reference on 43-10 that states the cov > er is on for good. It appears to me that it would be darn impossib > le to take the cover off once the bulkhead is bent to conform to the > cabin cover. I=99m just looking for conformation or denial of my sus > picion. > > > Thanks, > > > Bob > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 12:27:57 PM PST US From: Jeff Carpenter Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Question not difficult Bob. The side of the cover flexes enough to pull it out past the bend before you lift it up. Jeff Carpenter 40304 On Jan 13, 2010, at 12:03 PM, Bob Leffler wrote: > On 43-7 requires the bending the top portion of the F-1042 bulkhead > side channel. My question is how difficult to take the cabin cover > off after making this bend? I=92m not ready to put the cabin cover > on for good yet. There is a reference on 43-10 that states the > cover is on for good. It appears to me that it would be darn > impossible to take the cover off once the bulkhead is bent to > conform to the cabin cover. I=92m just looking for conformation or > denial of my suspicion. > > Thanks, > > Bob > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 12:33:48 PM PST US From: "Bob Leffler" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Question Thanks Sean! How=99s the overhead console coming along? bob From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 3:12 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Question It's not bad. I've done it a thousand times lately. You just have to set one side in and pulltje other side around the vended channel. Go for it! Sent from my iPhone On Jan 13, 2010, at 13:03, "Bob Leffler" wrote: On 43-7 requires the bending the top portion of the F-1042 bulkhead side channel. My question is how difficult to take the cabin cover off after making this bend? I=99m not ready to put the cabin cover on for good yet. There is a reference on 43-10 that states the cover is on for good. It appears to me that it would be darn impossible to take the cover off once the bulkhead is bent to conform to the cabin cover. I=99m just looking for conformation or denial of my suspicion. Thanks, Bob href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ontribution ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 12:43:37 PM PST US From: "Seano" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Question Great! It fit really well and it's glued on for good. I have been taking the canopy off and on for the door fitting. It was really hard for me to figure out the steps of the canopy. I was afraid to mount the canopy with clecos and fit the doors so I have been bolting and clecoing the entire canopy for the doors. I then have to take it back off and sand and fill so I can paint the interior. I am 90 percent sure right now that I will be painting the canopy instead of using a headliner. I could do either one with the overhead console. It has been easy to blend because the lip is so thin. I am doing some stuff with the aluminum inserts for lighting and I will be taking some pics soon. I had to work today so I am in BOI and away from my baby. Call me if you have any questions. 801-580-3737 ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Leffler To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 1:35 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Question Thanks Sean! How=99s the overhead console coming along? bob From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 3:12 PM To: rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Question It's not bad. I've done it a thousand times lately. You just have to set one side in and pulltje other side around the vended channel. Go for it! Sent from my iPhone On Jan 13, 2010, at 13:03, "Bob Leffler" wrote: On 43-7 requires the bending the top portion of the F-1042 bulkhead side channel. My question is how difficult to take the cabin cover off after making this bend? I=99m not ready to put the cabin cover on for good yet. There is a reference on 43-10 that states the cover is on for good. It appears to me that it would be darn impossible to take the cover off once the bulkhead is bent to conform to the cabin cover. I=99m just looking for conformation or denial of my suspicion. Thanks, Bob href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://foru ms.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www .matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht tp://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 01:06:56 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: rear spar caps From: "JHearnsberger" Thank you. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281328#281328 ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 01:32:50 PM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: RE: RV10-List: rear spar caps Early on in building I was advised to get a roll of the 3" wide adhesive backed sand paper usually sold in auto supply houses. You can stick it to most anything, a socket for small radis, a section of PVC pipe for larger, a form you cut from wood for the windshield lower fairing, or a short section of 2x4. Most useful to me was 80 and 220. A long roll was about $33 as I recall and I used about half a roll in building. Also you might look at a vixen file. Albert Gardner N991RV Yuma, AZ ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 02:32:46 PM PST US From: "Rick Lark" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Wing Kit Wow, thanks for that info Brian. I think I will order my slow build wings this week. Rick ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Steeves" Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 1:45 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Wing Kit > > > Vans is way behind on the wing kits. I ordered a slow build end of August > and just received a phone call today that it should ship next week. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281305#281305 > > > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 03:08:44 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: rear spar caps From: "JHearnsberger" What type of scotchbrite wheel? Is it the rolec pad? I am looking for something to attach to my die grinder. Also, what grit? Sent from my iPhone. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281348#281348 ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 03:23:32 PM PST US From: Bill Mauledriver Watson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Wing Kit I have no idea about the current situation but my experience was that availability from Vans can change rapidly in either direction. Cancellations, logistics, whatever might play a a part. I was warned about long lead times for some items and everything ended up being available pretty much immediately. Be prepared to be faced with the decision to accept stuff earlier than expected or to pass it up. What are the tradeoffs? Expense is clearly the big one. Beyond that it seemed to me that having stuff in house would only motivate and ease the build process. In retrospect, getting a later, improved version of say the canopy top would be equally valuable. And taking more time to learn what aftermarket parts one may want to swap in could save a little $$. Just my experience, YMMV. Bill "he who sands green canopy, pink doors and a pink cowling" Watson do not archive Rick Lark wrote: > > Wow, thanks for that info Brian. I think I will order my slow build > wings this week. > > Rick > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Steeves" > > To: > Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 1:45 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Wing Kit > > >> >> >> Vans is way behind on the wing kits. I ordered a slow build end of >> August and just received a phone call today that it should ship next >> week. >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281305#281305 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 03:30:10 PM PST US From: Jeff Carpenter Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: rear spar caps 3M SCOTCH-BRITE DEBURRING WHEEL from Aircraft Spruce On Jan 13, 2010, at 3:07 PM, JHearnsberger wrote: > > > > What type of scotchbrite wheel? Is it the rolec pad? I am looking > for something to attach to my die grinder. Also, what grit? > > Sent from my iPhone. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281348#281348 > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 03:50:08 PM PST US From: Jeff Carpenter Subject: RV10-List: FWF Kit I think I'll take the plunge on the FWF kit before the prices go up at the end of the month. Are there any items to leave out of the Vans order (other than the hoses) and source somewhere else? Also, what's the weight penalty and additional install time for the Throttle Quadrant? Jeff Carpenter 40304 ... seeing the light at the end of the fiberglass tunnel ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 04:09:42 PM PST US From: "Pascal" Subject: Re: RV10-List: FWF Kit Jeff; Vans now has quality hoses in their kits. I was quite surprised to see firesleeves on the fluid hoses. You will need to order the fuel line hose that goes to the fuel injector, that is not part of the kit. I ordered mine from Aircraft hoses. they knew what hose I needed. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "Jeff Carpenter" Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 3:49 PM Subject: RV10-List: FWF Kit > > I think I'll take the plunge on the FWF kit before the prices go up at > the end of the month. Are there any items to leave out of the Vans order > (other than the hoses) and source somewhere else? Also, what's the > weight penalty and additional install time for the Throttle Quadrant? > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > ... seeing the light at the end of the fiberglass tunnel > > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 04:37:33 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: rear spar caps From: "JHearnsberger" I think I would prefer to use it in a bench grinder. Does anyone have any recommendations for a good bench grinder to use with the scotchbrite wheel? Thanks, Jake Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281359#281359 ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 04:46:53 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: FWF Kit From: Chris Colohan Ooooh, price increases. (I've been waffling on when to order my tail kit, this might push me over the edge.) Any word on what the new prices might look like (how much they will go up)? Chris On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 3:49 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > I think I'll take the plunge on the FWF kit before the prices go up at the > end of the month. Are there any items to leave out of the Vans order (other > than the hoses) and source somewhere else? Also, what's the weight penalty > and additional install time for the Throttle Quadrant? > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > ... seeing the light at the end of the fiberglass tunnel > > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 04:57:55 PM PST US From: "Rick" Subject: RE: RV10-List: FWF Kit They are on the website by now but usually 3 to 5 percent Done buying for now, next time I get the repeat offender price!! Rick Sked N246RS Flying From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Colohan Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 4:45 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: FWF Kit Ooooh, price increases. (I've been waffling on when to order my tail kit, this might push me over the edge.) Any word on what the new prices might look like (how much they will go up)? Chris On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 3:49 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote: I think I'll take the plunge on the FWF kit before the prices go up at the end of the month. Are there any items to leave out of the Vans order (other than the hoses) and source somewhere else? Also, what's the weight penalty and additional install time for the Throttle Quadrant? Jeff Carpenter 40304 ... seeing the light at the end of the fiberglass tunnel ========== arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ========== http://forums.matronics.com ========== le, List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ========== ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 05:22:51 PM PST US From: Deems Davis Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left( pilot) side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the tire, the Right is also showing wear on the outside, but not as extreme. What have others experienced? So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes to try and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the left tire off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad dropped to the floor! It appears that the shoulder that is supposed to hold the rivet liner to the pad let go, and the rivet heads were "floating" inside of the countersunk area. Fortunately there is minimal brake wear, and therefore little movement in the brake when activated. But, if the brake wear had been greater, there's a possibility that the pad/liner would have moved and jammed it self against the brake disc. If this had happened on landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for that ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight. since these were the parts that came with the kit from Cleveland, I would expect that they should have some quality control in their mfg to eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and comparison with the inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets, it appears that they are 'deeper' into the countersunk area , and possibly the shoulder of the brake material that holds them was thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway replacement pads on on there way. Something to keep in mind when you do your conditionals or change tires. Deems Davis N519PJ www.deemsrv10.com ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 05:42:40 PM PST US From: "Dave Leikam" Subject: RV10-List: oil adapter spacer For those who have installed the B&C angled oil adapter, what size spacer did you need if any? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA Muskego, WI ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 05:52:10 PM PST US From: Don McDonald Subject: Re: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation Deems, You did better than I did.... I switched mine at 90 hours... and the pilot side was worse than the other side.- At the same time I installed air stop tubes.- Guess It's getting time to get an order together for tir es.- Brakes looked good. Which pads did you order? Any word on the Alaska trip you hinted about? Weather here in the SAC area has been terrible... at least for flying.- J ust enough overcast/fog to keep you on the ground.- Going up tomorrow tho ugh. Don McDonald --- On Wed, 1/13/10, Deems Davis wrote: From: Deems Davis Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left( pilot) side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the tire, the Right is also showing wear on the outside, but not as extreme. What have others experienced? So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes to try a nd get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the left tire off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad dropped to the floor! It a ppears that the shoulder that is supposed to hold the rivet liner to the pa d let go, and the rivet heads were "floating" inside of the countersunk are a. Fortunately there is minimal brake wear, and therefore little movement i n the brake when activated. But, if the brake wear had been greater, there' s a possibility that the pad/liner would have moved and jammed it self agai nst the brake disc. If this had happened on landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for that ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight. since these were the parts that came with the kit from Clevelan d, I would expect- that they should have some quality control in their mfg to eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and comparison- wi th the inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets, it appears that- the y are 'deeper' into the countersunk area , and possibly the- shoulder of the brake material that holds them- was thinner and possibly weaker. Anyw ay replacement pads on on there way. Something to keep in mind when you do your conditionals or change tires. Deems Davis N519PJ www.deemsrv10.com le, List Admin. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 05:59:20 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: First Flight From: "rv10flyer" Congratulations Jay! Can hardly wait to be where you are. I am 75 hrs into my slow build. It is going to be the same for me...all 172 time except for some flights with a friend in his -9A. -------- Wayne Gillispie A&P 5/93', PP 10/08' Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983 Ordered complete kit 8/24/09 DB Schenker delivered 11/20/09 Starting empennage 11/24/09 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281369#281369 ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 06:07:10 PM PST US From: Don McDonald Subject: Re: RV10-List: oil adapter spacer Dave, I was a real newbie when I ran into this issue.... and I didn't know the matronics board existed...- Anyway, I made my own adaptor which attat ched to the engine, and a second, stock, adaptor went on next.- It looked to me that the mount needed to be both spaced-rearward and offset.- It appears to have worked.... engine performing beautifully, with all the rig ht pressures, for over 100 hours. Don McDonald --- On Wed, 1/13/10, Dave Leikam wrote: From: Dave Leikam Subject: RV10-List: oil adapter spacer For those who have installed the B&C angled oil adapter, what size spacer d id you need if any? - Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA Muskego, WI =0A=0A=0A ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 06:08:46 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation From: ricksked@cox.net Same for me Deems.....I called Van's and Ken Scott said you and I need to lose weight....actually my landings are so sweet that I still have the little nibs on the tire after almost 80 hours :) Rick Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Deems Davis Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left( pilot) side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the tire, the Right is also showing wear on the outside, but not as extreme. What have others experienced? So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes to try and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the left tire off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad dropped to the floor! It appears that the shoulder that is supposed to hold the rivet liner to the pad let go, and the rivet heads were "floating" inside of the countersunk area. Fortunately there is minimal brake wear, and therefore little movement in the brake when activated. But, if the brake wear had been greater, there's a possibility that the pad/liner would have moved and jammed it self against the brake disc. If this had happened on landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for that ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight. since these were the parts that came with the kit from Cleveland, I would expect that they should have some quality control in their mfg to eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and comparison with the inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets, it appears that they are 'deeper' into the countersunk area , and possibly the shoulder of the brake material that holds them was thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway replacement pads on on there way. Something to keep in mind when you do your conditionals or change tires. Deems Davis N519PJ www.deemsrv10.com ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 06:19:16 PM PST US From: "John Cumins" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ricksked@cox.net Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:05 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation Same for me Deems.....I called Van's and Ken Scott said you and I need to lose weight....actually my landings are so sweet that I still have the little nibs on the tire after almost 80 hours :) Rick Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Deems Davis Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left( pilot) side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the tire, the Right is also showing wear on the outside, but not as extreme. What have others experienced? So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes to try and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the left tire off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad dropped to the floor! It appears that the shoulder that is supposed to hold the rivet liner to the pad let go, and the rivet heads were "floating" inside of the countersunk area. Fortunately there is minimal brake wear, and therefore little movement in the brake when activated. But, if the brake wear had been greater, there's a possibility that the pad/liner would have moved and jammed it self against the brake disc. If this had happened on landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for that ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight. since these were the parts that came with the kit from Cleveland, I would expect that they should have some quality control in their mfg to eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and comparison with the inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets, it appears that they are 'deeper' into the countersunk area , and possibly the shoulder of the brake material that holds them was thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway replacement pads on on there way. Something to keep in mind when you do your conditionals or change tires. Deems Davis N519PJ www.deemsrv10.com ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 06:22:08 PM PST US From: "John Cumins" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation Rick It is not that you need to loose weight cause if that was the issue the wear would be in the inside on the outside. Outside wear is very common on spring steel gear give it time and it might get better as the gear gets more wear and tare on it. Either that Vans needs to correct the axel angle on the gear leg it self. John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ricksked@cox.net Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:05 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation Same for me Deems.....I called Van's and Ken Scott said you and I need to lose weight....actually my landings are so sweet that I still have the little nibs on the tire after almost 80 hours :) Rick Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Deems Davis Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left( pilot) side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the tire, the Right is also showing wear on the outside, but not as extreme. What have others experienced? So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes to try and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the left tire off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad dropped to the floor! It appears that the shoulder that is supposed to hold the rivet liner to the pad let go, and the rivet heads were "floating" inside of the countersunk area. Fortunately there is minimal brake wear, and therefore little movement in the brake when activated. But, if the brake wear had been greater, there's a possibility that the pad/liner would have moved and jammed it self against the brake disc. If this had happened on landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for that ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight. since these were the parts that came with the kit from Cleveland, I would expect that they should have some quality control in their mfg to eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and comparison with the inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets, it appears that they are 'deeper' into the countersunk area , and possibly the shoulder of the brake material that holds them was thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway replacement pads on on there way. Something to keep in mind when you do your conditionals or change tires. Deems Davis N519PJ www.deemsrv10.com ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 06:39:51 PM PST US From: "Rick" Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil adapter spacer Dave you will need the adapter=85here is a link to B & C and I think you need the .75 or =BE=94=85I really can=92t remember=85I need to go and measure if someone else doesn=92t pipe in. http://www.bandc.biz/oil-filter-adapter.aspx From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 5:42 PM Subject: RV10-List: oil adapter spacer For those who have installed the B&C angled oil adapter, what size spacer did you need if any? Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA Muskego, WI ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 06:40:58 PM PST US From: "Rick" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation Not my issue!!!! Ken Scott or aka...the ego deflator..told me that...not really...just thought it was funny that both Deems and I had tire wear on the left more than the right...you still coming in on the 20th? Rick -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:20 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation Rick It is not that you need to loose weight cause if that was the issue the wear would be in the inside on the outside. Outside wear is very common on spring steel gear give it time and it might get better as the gear gets more wear and tare on it. Either that Vans needs to correct the axel angle on the gear leg it self. John G. Cumins President JC'S Interactive Systems 2499 B1 Martin Rd Fairfield Ca 94533 707-425-7100 707-425-7576 Fax Your Total Technology Solution Provider -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ricksked@cox.net Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:05 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation Same for me Deems.....I called Van's and Ken Scott said you and I need to lose weight....actually my landings are so sweet that I still have the little nibs on the tire after almost 80 hours :) Rick Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Deems Davis Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left( pilot) side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the tire, the Right is also showing wear on the outside, but not as extreme. What have others experienced? So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes to try and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the left tire off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad dropped to the floor! It appears that the shoulder that is supposed to hold the rivet liner to the pad let go, and the rivet heads were "floating" inside of the countersunk area. Fortunately there is minimal brake wear, and therefore little movement in the brake when activated. But, if the brake wear had been greater, there's a possibility that the pad/liner would have moved and jammed it self against the brake disc. If this had happened on landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for that ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight. since these were the parts that came with the kit from Cleveland, I would expect that they should have some quality control in their mfg to eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and comparison with the inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets, it appears that they are 'deeper' into the countersunk area , and possibly the shoulder of the brake material that holds them was thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway replacement pads on on there way. Something to keep in mind when you do your conditionals or change tires. Deems Davis N519PJ www.deemsrv10.com ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 06:53:08 PM PST US From: "DLM" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation air stop tubes came with the kit. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:52 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation Deems, You did better than I did.... I switched mine at 90 hours... and the pilot side was worse than the other side. At the same time I installed air stop tubes. Guess It's getting time to get an order together for tires. Brakes looked good. Which pads did you order? Any word on the Alaska trip you hinted about? Weather here in the SAC area has been terrible... at least for flying. Just enough overcast/fog to keep you on the ground. Going up tomorrow though. Don McDonald --- On Wed, 1/13/10, Deems Davis wrote: From: Deems Davis Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation > I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left( pilot) side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the tire, the Right is also showing wear on the outside, but not as extreme. What have others experienced? So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes to try and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the left tire off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad dropped to the floor! It appears that the shoulder that is supposed to hold the rivet liner to the pad let go, and the rivet heads were "floating" inside of the countersunk area. Fortunately there is minimal brake wear, and therefore little movement in the brake when activated. But, if the brake wear had been greater, there's a possibility that the pad/liner would have moved and jammed it self against the brake disc. If this had happened on landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for that ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight. since these were the parts that came with the kit from Cleveland, I would expect that they should have some quality control in their mfg to eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and comparison with the inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets, it appears that they are 'deeper' into the countersunk area , and possibly the shoulder of the brake material that holds them was thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway replacement pads on on there way. Something to keep in mind when you do your conditionals or change tires. Deems atronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/= - MATRONICS cs.com/" ; -Matt Dralle, List Admin========= ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 07:13:42 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: rear spar caps From: Kelly McMullen One of the easier ways to use a large Scotchbrite wheel is to mount it in a drill press, and just run the pieces over it. Leaves both hands free to manipulate/control the piece being deburred. Easier to install and remove than in a bench grinder. For large/ long pieces, like skins, a small scotchbrite wheel in a die grinder or hand drill works fine. On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 5:35 PM, JHearnsberger wrote: > jakehearnsberger@gmail.com> > > I think I would prefer to use it in a bench grinder. Does anyone have any > recommendations for a good bench grinder to use with the scotchbrite wheel? > > Thanks, > > Jake > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281359#281359 > > ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 07:38:44 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: rear spar caps From: Kelly McMullen I forgot to mention, generally you will get smoother results if the piece is parallel to the rotating wheel, not the axis it is rotating about. That is why the wheel on horizontal axis with shaft vertical works well with long pieces held horizontal. On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 8:11 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > One of the easier ways to use a large Scotchbrite wheel is to mount it in a > drill press, and just run the pieces over it. Leaves both hands free to > manipulate/control the piece being deburred. Easier to install and remove > than in a bench grinder. For large/ long pieces, like skins, a small > scotchbrite wheel in a die grinder or hand drill works fine. > > > On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 5:35 PM, JHearnsberger > wrote: > >> jakehearnsberger@gmail.com> >> >> I think I would prefer to use it in a bench grinder. Does anyone have any >> recommendations for a good bench grinder to use with the scotchbrite wheel? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Jake >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281359#281359 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 08:17:40 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: rear spar caps From: "JHearnsberger" What a great tip! Thank you. I found the 7a wheels here http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0_nid=8ZFZHRFX71beH55CPWS904gl I am hoping I can find it locally somewhere. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281387#281387 ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 08:49:02 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: rear spar caps From: Kelly McMullen Most of the tool kit suppliers include a large wheel as part of their kits and sell separately. They aren't cheap, but one should do you for the entire build process. On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 9:14 PM, JHearnsberger wrote: > > What a great tip! Thank you. > > I found the 7a wheels here http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0_nid=8ZFZHRFX71beH55CPWS904gl > > I am hoping I can find it locally somewhere. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281387#281387 > > ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 09:24:52 PM PST US From: Seano Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: rear spar caps They are around 50$ I am 99 percent done with the aluminum parts and I'm on number three??? I know other builders that just used one or two Sent from my iPhone On Jan 13, 2010, at 21:46, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Most of the tool kit suppliers include a large wheel as part of their > kits and sell separately. They aren't cheap, but one should do you for > the entire build process. > > On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 9:14 PM, JHearnsberger > wrote: >> > >> >> What a great tip! Thank you. >> >> I found the 7a wheels here http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0_nid=8ZFZHRFX71beH55CPWS904gl >> >> I am hoping I can find it locally somewhere. >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281387#281387 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 41 ____________________________________ Time: 11:11:20 PM PST US From: Jeff Carpenter Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: rear spar caps Though the scotch-brite wheel is very useful, I ultimately found that skins and long parts that were difficult to get to the wheel were easily deburred with a large vixen file run a few times along an edge at different angles. It's also pretty easy to overwork a part with the scotch-brite wheel Jeff Carpenter 40304 Yearning for the good old days of metal work... when fiberglass was far off in the future On Jan 13, 2010, at 3:29 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote: > 3M SCOTCH-BRITE DEBURRING WHEEL from Aircraft Spruce > > > On Jan 13, 2010, at 3:07 PM, JHearnsberger wrote: > >> > >> >> What type of scotchbrite wheel? Is it the rolec pad? I am looking >> for something to attach to my die grinder. Also, what grit? >> >> Sent from my iPhone. >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281348#281348 >> >> >> >> - The RV10-List --> &n======================= >> >> > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.