Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:28 AM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (Jesse Saint)
2. 06:45 AM - Re: Re: rear spar caps (Dj Merrill)
3. 07:14 AM - Re: Re: rear spar caps (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
4. 07:43 AM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
5. 07:51 AM - Re: Re: rear spar caps (Tim Olson)
6. 08:13 AM - Re: Re: rear spar caps- must read (Don McDonald)
7. 08:44 AM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (Deems Davis)
8. 08:50 AM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (Miller John)
9. 09:42 AM - Re: Re: rear spar caps- must read (Seano)
10. 10:11 AM - Re: FWF Kit (tsts4)
11. 10:21 AM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (John Cox)
12. 11:08 AM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (Bob Turner)
13. 11:09 AM - Re: Re: FWF Kit (Pascal)
14. 11:25 AM - Re: Re: rear spar caps (Dick & Vicki Sipp)
15. 12:48 PM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (John Cumins)
16. 01:56 PM - 1" Scotchbrite Wheels (dogsbark@comcast.net)
17. 04:50 PM - Re: 1" Scotchbrite Wheels (Chris Colohan)
18. 04:53 PM - Re: 1" Scotchbrite Wheels (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
19. 04:54 PM - Re: 1" Scotchbrite Wheels (Kelly McMullen)
20. 05:10 PM - Door safety latch (Jim Berry)
21. 05:17 PM - Re: 1" Scotchbrite Wheels (Robin Marks)
22. 05:32 PM - Re: Door safety latch (Ron B.)
23. 05:33 PM - Door SB just posted (Bob Leffler)
24. 05:38 PM - Re: Door safety latch (Bob Leffler)
25. 05:39 PM - Re: Door safety latch (DLM)
26. 05:39 PM - Re: Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (Don McDonald)
27. 05:42 PM - Re: Door safety latch (Jim Berry)
28. 05:45 PM - Flap motor rod travel (Chris)
29. 07:05 PM - Re: door handle & mechanism (Seano)
30. 07:45 PM - Re: door handle & mechanism (Les Kearney)
31. 08:07 PM - Re: door handle & mechanism (Seano)
32. 09:44 PM - electric aileron trim (Rick Lark)
33. 09:46 PM - Re: Door SB just posted (Ron McGann)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation |
After 750 hours our tires still wear on the outside. The tires sit fairly straight
when on the ground, but most of the wear comes from the little squeek when
the tires go from 0-60kts at touchdown. When flying, the outside of the tire
is lower than the inside. The more landings you do, the more your tires will
wear. We just got about 150+ hours on the outside and just rotated them to
the inside. The nose tire was just replaced. How have people been seeing the
wear on the nose? It should be much less than the mains, or course, unless you
get a bad shimmy, but I don't remember if we have changed that before or not.
I'd have to go back and check through the logs.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jan 13, 2010, at 9:19 PM, John Cumins wrote:
>
> Rick
>
> It is not that you need to loose weight cause if that was the issue the wear
> would be in the inside on the outside. Outside wear is very common on
> spring steel gear give it time and it might get better as the gear gets more
> wear and tare on it. Either that Vans needs to correct the axel angle on
> the gear leg it self.
>
> John G. Cumins
> President
>
> JC'S Interactive Systems
> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
> Fairfield Ca 94533
> 707-425-7100
> 707-425-7576 Fax
>
> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ricksked@cox.net
> Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:05 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
>
>
> Same for me Deems.....I called Van's and Ken Scott said you and I need to
> lose weight....actually my landings are so sweet that I still have the
> little nibs on the tire after almost 80 hours :)
>
> Rick
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
> Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 18:14:13
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
>
>
> I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left( pilot)
> side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the tire, the Right
> is also showing wear on the outside, but not as extreme.
>
> What have others experienced?
>
> So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes to
> try and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the left tire
> off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad dropped to the
> floor! It appears that the shoulder that is supposed to hold the rivet
> liner to the pad let go, and the rivet heads were "floating" inside of
> the countersunk area. Fortunately there is minimal brake wear, and
> therefore little movement in the brake when activated. But, if the brake
> wear had been greater, there's a possibility that the pad/liner would
> have moved and jammed it self against the brake disc. If this had
> happened on landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for
> that ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person
> has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight. since
> these were the parts that came with the kit from Cleveland, I would
> expect that they should have some quality control in their mfg to
> eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and comparison with the
> inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets, it appears that they are
> 'deeper' into the countersunk area , and possibly the shoulder of the
> brake material that holds them was thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway
> replacement pads on on there way. Something to keep in mind when you do
> your conditionals or change tires.
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
On 01/13/2010 07:35 PM, JHearnsberger wrote:
>
> I think I would prefer to use it in a bench grinder. Does anyone have any recommendations
for a good bench grinder to use with the scotchbrite wheel?
I'm using one of these el cheapo $40 ones - works fine, price is right,
and it comes with a polishing wheel.
<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43533>
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43533
Replacement wheel kits are cheap $6:
<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43758>
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43758
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Grumman Yankee Driver N9870L - http://deej.net/yankee/
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> Though the scotch-brite wheel is very useful, I ultimately found that
> skins and long parts that were difficult to get to the wheel were
> easily deburred with a large vixen file run a few times along an edge
> at different angles.
The vixen file seems to be the ideal tool for dressing the edges of
tail/wing skins. I had no idea what it was or how to use it but I
described what I found out in a post - search the archives for 'Vixen'
and look for my post (I can't find the supporting pics). A very useful
tool and very basic technique for skin deburring. Very productive.
I found that the scotchbrite wheel in a floor mounted bench grinder to
be by far the tool I use the most. Still do. I'm on my second wheel at
3+ years of a 4 year QB. The drill press thing sounds good - never
thought about the axis thing but I wouldn't want to have to mount and
de-mount it all the time. On the bench grinder, I first had a coarse
and fine wheel - found just the coarse is fine. Mounted a regular
grinding wheel in the other for the little bits of steel work we do.
The little SB wheel in the die grinder is very handy when needed too.
Have worn one out, on number 2. I used Avery's 3700 but I think I got
it from Cleaveland:
http://www.averytools.com/pc-351-43-scotch-brite-cutting---polishing--wheel--kit.aspx
Message 4
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| Subject: | Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation |
Too bad Deems is flying, maybe he could come up with a way to pre-accelerate
the tires to landing speed for smoother landings with less tire wear. Heh.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 8:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
After 750 hours our tires still wear on the outside. The tires sit fairly straight
when on the ground, but most of the wear comes from the little squeek when
the tires go from 0-60kts at touchdown. When flying, the outside of the tire
is lower than the inside. The more landings you do, the more your tires will
wear. We just got about 150+ hours on the outside and just rotated them to
the inside. The nose tire was just replaced. How have people been seeing the
wear on the nose? It should be much less than the mains, or course, unless you
get a bad shimmy, but I don't remember if we have changed that before or not.
I'd have to go back and check through the logs.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jan 13, 2010, at 9:19 PM, John Cumins wrote:
>
> Rick
>
> It is not that you need to loose weight cause if that was the issue the wear
> would be in the inside on the outside. Outside wear is very common on
> spring steel gear give it time and it might get better as the gear gets more
> wear and tare on it. Either that Vans needs to correct the axel angle on
> the gear leg it self.
>
> John G. Cumins
> President
>
> JC'S Interactive Systems
> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
> Fairfield Ca 94533
> 707-425-7100
> 707-425-7576 Fax
>
> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ricksked@cox.net
> Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:05 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
>
>
> Same for me Deems.....I called Van's and Ken Scott said you and I need to
> lose weight....actually my landings are so sweet that I still have the
> little nibs on the tire after almost 80 hours :)
>
> Rick
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
> Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 18:14:13
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
>
>
> I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left( pilot)
> side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the tire, the Right
> is also showing wear on the outside, but not as extreme.
>
> What have others experienced?
>
> So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes to
> try and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the left tire
> off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad dropped to the
> floor! It appears that the shoulder that is supposed to hold the rivet
> liner to the pad let go, and the rivet heads were "floating" inside of
> the countersunk area. Fortunately there is minimal brake wear, and
> therefore little movement in the brake when activated. But, if the brake
> wear had been greater, there's a possibility that the pad/liner would
> have moved and jammed it self against the brake disc. If this had
> happened on landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for
> that ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person
> has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight. since
> these were the parts that came with the kit from Cleveland, I would
> expect that they should have some quality control in their mfg to
> eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and comparison with the
> inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets, it appears that they are
> 'deeper' into the countersunk area , and possibly the shoulder of the
> brake material that holds them was thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway
> replacement pads on on there way. Something to keep in mind when you do
> your conditionals or change tires.
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
You can't beat the die grinder wheels for doing the inside of those
lightening holes. I went through about 5 or 6 of them over the
whole build, but used them a lot. I bought 2 large wheels for
my grinder, and one is pretty worn, the other is worn some. So
1.5 or so did my whole project. If I start another kit, I'll
buy one more big wheel, maybe put one of my grinder ones onto
a drill press, and buy a few more die grinder wheels. That's
some of the nicest deburring you can get.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>> Though the scotch-brite wheel is very useful, I ultimately found that
>> skins and long parts that were difficult to get to the wheel were
>> easily deburred with a large vixen file run a few times along an edge
>> at different angles.
> The vixen file seems to be the ideal tool for dressing the edges of
> tail/wing skins. I had no idea what it was or how to use it but I
> described what I found out in a post - search the archives for 'Vixen'
> and look for my post (I can't find the supporting pics). A very useful
> tool and very basic technique for skin deburring. Very productive.
>
> I found that the scotchbrite wheel in a floor mounted bench grinder to
> be by far the tool I use the most. Still do. I'm on my second wheel at
> 3+ years of a 4 year QB. The drill press thing sounds good - never
> thought about the axis thing but I wouldn't want to have to mount and
> de-mount it all the time. On the bench grinder, I first had a coarse
> and fine wheel - found just the coarse is fine. Mounted a regular
> grinding wheel in the other for the little bits of steel work we do.
>
> The little SB wheel in the die grinder is very handy when needed too.
> Have worn one out, on number 2. I used Avery's 3700 but I think I got
> it from Cleaveland:
> http://www.averytools.com/pc-351-43-scotch-brite-cutting---polishing--wheel--kit.aspx
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps- must read |
Bill is right on... Jeff using the file is fine, but finish EVERYTHIG off w
ith the grinder held scotchbrite wheel or the small scotchbrite wheels show
n below.- I forgot where I got mine, and hadn't got around to ordering mo
re, so I've been making due with the little nubs that I've got left.- Ord
er the "kit", you won't be sorry.- Best and easiest way to deburr everyth
ing.
Don McDonad
--- On Thu, 1/14/10, Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: rear spar caps
.com>
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> Though the scotch-brite wheel is very useful, I ultimately found that ski
ns and long parts that were difficult to get to the wheel were easily debur
red with a large vixen file run a few times along- an edge at different a
ngles.
The vixen file seems to be the ideal- tool for dressing the edges of tail
/wing skins.- I had no idea what it was or how to use it but I described
what I found out in a post - search the archives for 'Vixen' and look for m
y post (I can't find the supporting pics).- A very useful tool and very b
asic technique for skin deburring.- Very productive.
I found that the scotchbrite wheel in a floor mounted bench grinder to be b
y far the tool I use the most.- Still do.- I'm on my second wheel at 3+
years of a 4 year QB.- The drill press thing sounds good - never thought
about the axis thing but I wouldn't want to have to mount and de-mount-
it all the time.- On the bench grinder, I first had a coarse and fine whe
el - found just the coarse is fine.- Mounted a regular grinding wheel in
the other for the little bits of steel work we do.
The little SB wheel in the die grinder is very handy when needed too.- Ha
ve worn one out, on number 2.- I- used Avery's 3700 but I think I got i
t from Cleaveland:
http://www.averytools.com/pc-351-43-scotch-brite-cutting---polishing--wheel
--kit.aspx
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation |
Thanks all for the feedback re tires. It appears that uneven outside
wear is the 'norm'. I wonder if we're all landing left wheel 1st? Or if
Van's has a slight error in the gear weldment? I reject Rick's
hypothesis regarding 'unequal weight distribution' :-) . I've got em
flipped and will watch closer for the next period. I've also had a
couple of positive recommendations for retreads for future replacements.
I haven't worked on Alaska, my hangar neighbor from AK just returned, so
I'll have to ping him.
I don't want to make everyone green, but it's 70 deg and CAVU here in
PHX. 8-)
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Don McDonald wrote:
> Deems, You did better than I did.... I switched mine at 90 hours...
> and the pilot side was worse than the other side. At the same time I
> installed air stop tubes. Guess It's getting time to get an order
> together for tires. Brakes looked good.
> Which pads did you order?
> Any word on the Alaska trip you hinted about?
> Weather here in the SAC area has been terrible... at least for
> flying. Just enough overcast/fog to keep you on the ground. Going up
> tomorrow though.
> Don McDonald
>
> --- On *Wed, 1/13/10, Deems Davis /<deemsdavis@cox.net>/* wrote:
>
>
> From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
> Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, January 13, 2010, 5:14 PM
>
> <http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=deemsdavis@cox.net>>
>
> I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left(
> pilot) side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the
> tire, the Right is also showing wear on the outside, but not as
> extreme.
>
> What have others experienced?
>
> So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes
> to try and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the
> left tire off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad
> dropped to the floor! It appears that the shoulder that is
> supposed to hold the rivet liner to the pad let go, and the rivet
> heads were "floating" inside of the countersunk area. Fortunately
> there is minimal brake wear, and therefore little movement in the
> brake when activated. But, if the brake wear had been greater,
> there's a possibility that the pad/liner would have moved and
> jammed it self against the brake disc. If this had happened on
> landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for that
> ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person
> has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight.
> since these were the parts that came with the kit from Cleveland,
> I would expect that they should have some quality control in
> their mfg to eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and
> comparison with the inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets,
> it appears that they are 'deeper' into the countersunk area , and
> possibly the shoulder of the brake material that holds them was
> thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway replacement pads on on there
> way. Something to keep in mind when you do your conditionals or
> change tires.
>
> Deems atronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
> target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/= - MATRONICS
> cs.com/" ; -Matt Dralle, List Admin=========
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation |
I rotate inner to outer one annual condition inspection, then exchange
left & right next annual and repeat inner to outer at the next one.
Turn nose wheel around each annual.
Works ok to keep all wear about equal.
Remember on inner to outer, be careful and dust up the tube well and
partially inflate it to keep from pinching the tube (learned that one
the hard way.....)
grumpy
On Jan 14, 2010, at 10:43 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> Thanks all for the feedback re tires. It appears that uneven outside
> wear is the 'norm'. I wonder if we're all landing left wheel 1st? Or
> if Van's has a slight error in the gear weldment? I reject Rick's
> hypothesis regarding 'unequal weight distribution' :-) . I've got
> em flipped and will watch closer for the next period. I've also had
> a couple of positive recommendations for retreads for future
> replacements.
> I haven't worked on Alaska, my hangar neighbor from AK just
> returned, so I'll have to ping him.
> I don't want to make everyone green, but it's 70 deg and CAVU here
> in PHX. 8-)
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
> Don McDonald wrote:
>> Deems, You did better than I did.... I switched mine at 90 hours...
>> and the pilot side was worse than the other side. At the same time
>> I installed air stop tubes. Guess It's getting time to get an
>> order together for tires. Brakes looked good.
>> Which pads did you order?
>> Any word on the Alaska trip you hinted about?
>> Weather here in the SAC area has been terrible... at least for
>> flying. Just enough overcast/fog to keep you on the ground. Going
>> up tomorrow though.
>> Don McDonald
>>
>> --- On *Wed, 1/13/10, Deems Davis /<deemsdavis@cox.net>/* wrote:
>>
>>
>> From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>> Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Date: Wednesday, January 13, 2010, 5:14 PM
>>
>> <http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=deemsdavis@cox.net>>
>>
>> I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left(
>> pilot) side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the
>> tire, the Right is also showing wear on the outside, but not as
>> extreme.
>>
>> What have others experienced?
>>
>> So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes
>> to try and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the
>> left tire off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad
>> dropped to the floor! It appears that the shoulder that is
>> supposed to hold the rivet liner to the pad let go, and the rivet
>> heads were "floating" inside of the countersunk area. Fortunately
>> there is minimal brake wear, and therefore little movement in the
>> brake when activated. But, if the brake wear had been greater,
>> there's a possibility that the pad/liner would have moved and
>> jammed it self against the brake disc. If this had happened on
>> landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for that
>> ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person
>> has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight.
>> since these were the parts that came with the kit from Cleveland,
>> I would expect that they should have some quality control in
>> their mfg to eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and
>> comparison with the inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets,
>> it appears that they are 'deeper' into the countersunk area , and
>> possibly the shoulder of the brake material that holds them was
>> thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway replacement pads on on there
>> way. Something to keep in mind when you do your conditionals or
>> change tires.
>>
>> Deems atronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
>> target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/= - MATRONICS
>> cs.com/" ; -Matt Dralle, List Admin=========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps- must read |
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ---
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> TOOL GUIDE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> DRILL PRESS: A tall
>> upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
>> metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks
>> you in the chest and
>> flings your beer across the room, denting the
>> freshly-painted project
>> which you had carefully set in the corner where
>> nothing could get to it.
>>
>> WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws
>> them somewhere under
>> the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes
>> fingerprints and
>> hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time
>> it takes you to ay,
>> 'Oh sh --'
>>
>> SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make
>> studs too short.
>>
>> PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes
>> used in the creation of
>> blood-blisters.
>>
>> BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used
>> to convert minor
>> touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
>>
>> HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on
>> the Ouija board
>> principle. It transforms human energy into a
>> crooked, unpredictable
>> motion, and the more you attempt to influence its
>> course, the more
>> dismal your future becomes.
>>
>> VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to
>> completely round off bolt
>> heads. If nothing else is available, they can also
>> be used to transfer
>> intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
>>
>> OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for
>> lighting various flammable
>> objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for
>> igniting the grease inside
>> the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a
>> bearing race.
>>
>> TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly
>> used to launch wood
>> projectiles for testing wall integrity.
>>
>> HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an
>> automobile to the ground
>> after you have installed your new brake shoes,
>> trapping the jack handle
>> firmly under the bumper.
>>
>> BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily
>> used by most shops to
>> cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that
>> more easily fit into
>> the trash can after you cut on the inside of the
>> line instead of the
>> outside edge.
>>
>> TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the
>> maximum tensile strength of
>> everything you forgot to disconnect.
>>
>> PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the
>> vacuum seals under lids
>> or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and
>> splashing oil on
>> your shirt; but can also be used, as the name
>> implies, to strip out
>> phillips screw heads.
>>
>> STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint
>> cans. Sometimes used to
>> convert common slotted screws into non-removable
>> screws and butchering
>> your palms.
>>
>> PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal
>> surrounding that clip or
>> bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a
>> 50 cent part.
>>
>> HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too
>> short.
>>
>> HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the
>> hammer nowadays is
>> used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most
>> expensive parts
>> adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
>>
>> UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the
>> contents of cardboard
>> cartons delivered to your front door; works
>> particularly well on
>> contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in
>> plastic bottles,
>> collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or
>> plastic parts.
>> Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but
>> only while in use.
>>
>> SON OF A BITCH TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab
>> and throw across the
>> garage while yelling 'Son of a bitch' at the top of
>> your lungs. It is
>> also, most often, the next tool that you will
>> need.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. Sign
>> up now.
>>
>> Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. Sign
>> up now.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> "If you are afraid to speak against tyranny,
>> then you are already a slave." -- author
>> John "Birdman" Bryant (1943-2009)
>>
>>
>>
>> Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. Get it now.
>>
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> 01/12/10 19:35:00
>>
>>
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 14, 2010, at 9:12, Don McDonald <building_partner@yahoo.com>
wrote:
> Bill is right on... Jeff using the file is fine, but finish
> EVERYTHIG off with the grinder held scotchbrite wheel or the small
> scotchbrite wheels shown below. I forgot where I got mine, and
> hadn't got around to ordering more, so I've been making due with the
> little nubs that I've got left. Order the "kit", you won't be
> sorry. Best and easiest way to deburr everything.
> Don McDonad
>
> --- On Thu, 1/14/10, Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> wrote:
>
> From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: rear spar caps
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, January 14, 2010, 7:00 AM
>
> >
>
> Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> > Though the scotch-brite wheel is very useful, I ultimately found
> that skins and long parts that were difficult to get to the wheel
> were easily deburred with a large vixen file run a few times along
> an edge at different angles.
> The vixen file seems to be the ideal tool for dressing the edges of
> tail/wing skins. I had no idea what it was or how to use it but I
> described what I found out in a post - search the archives for
> 'Vixen' and look for my post (I can't find the supporting pics). A
> very useful tool and very basic technique for skin deburring. Very
> productive.
>
> I found that the scotchbrite wheel in a floor mounted bench grinder
> to be by far the tool I use the most. Still do. I'm on my second
> wheel at 3+ years of a 4 year QB. The drill press thing sounds good
> - never thought about the axis thing but I wouldn't want to have to
> mount and de-mount it all the time. On the bench grinder, I first
> had a coarse and fine wheel - found just the coarse is fine.
> Mounted a regular grinding wheel in the other for the little bits of
> steel work we do.
>
> The little SB wheel in the die grinder is very handy when needed
> too. Have worn one out, on number 2. I used Avery's 3700 but I
> think I got it from Cleaveland:
> http://www.averytools.com/pc-351-43-scotch-brite-cutting-http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> " target=_blank>http://www.marums.matronics.com/" ; -
> Matt Dralle, List Admin=========
>
>
Message 10
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> I was quite surprised to see
> firesleeves on the fluid hoses.
>
Pascal,
To satisfy my curiosity, do the fluid hoses in the FWF kit have external fire sleeves
like the 1st pic or integral firesleeves like the 124-6J hose in the 2nd
pic?
Thanks!
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281496#281496
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hosefs1_114.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hose124_6j_110.jpg
Message 11
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| Subject: | Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation |
Some pilots have better CG than other skinny pilots. The manufacturing
error built into the gear leg, now that is something for Ken Scott to
wax on incessantly.
John
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Miller John
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
I rotate inner to outer one annual condition inspection, then exchange
left & right next annual and repeat inner to outer at the next one.
Turn nose wheel around each annual.
Works ok to keep all wear about equal.
Remember on inner to outer, be careful and dust up the tube well and
partially inflate it to keep from pinching the tube (learned that one
the hard way.....)
grumpy
On Jan 14, 2010, at 10:43 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> Thanks all for the feedback re tires. It appears that uneven outside
> wear is the 'norm'. I wonder if we're all landing left wheel 1st? Or
> if Van's has a slight error in the gear weldment? I reject Rick's
> hypothesis regarding 'unequal weight distribution' :-) . I've got
> em flipped and will watch closer for the next period. I've also had
> a couple of positive recommendations for retreads for future
> replacements.
> I haven't worked on Alaska, my hangar neighbor from AK just
> returned, so I'll have to ping him.
> I don't want to make everyone green, but it's 70 deg and CAVU here
> in PHX. 8-)
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
> Don McDonald wrote:
>> Deems, You did better than I did.... I switched mine at 90 hours...
>> and the pilot side was worse than the other side. At the same time
>> I installed air stop tubes. Guess It's getting time to get an
>> order together for tires. Brakes looked good.
>> Which pads did you order?
>> Any word on the Alaska trip you hinted about?
>> Weather here in the SAC area has been terrible... at least for
>> flying. Just enough overcast/fog to keep you on the ground. Going
>> up tomorrow though.
>> Don McDonald
>>
>> --- On *Wed, 1/13/10, Deems Davis /<deemsdavis@cox.net>/* wrote:
>>
>>
>> From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>> Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Date: Wednesday, January 13, 2010, 5:14 PM
>>
>> <http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=deemsdavis@cox.net>>
>>
>> I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left(
>> pilot) side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the
>> tire, the Right is also showing wear on the outside, but not as
>> extreme.
>>
>> What have others experienced?
>>
>> So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes
>> to try and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the
>> left tire off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad
>> dropped to the floor! It appears that the shoulder that is
>> supposed to hold the rivet liner to the pad let go, and the rivet
>> heads were "floating" inside of the countersunk area. Fortunately
>> there is minimal brake wear, and therefore little movement in the
>> brake when activated. But, if the brake wear had been greater,
>> there's a possibility that the pad/liner would have moved and
>> jammed it self against the brake disc. If this had happened on
>> landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for that
>> ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person
>> has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight.
>> since these were the parts that came with the kit from Cleveland,
>> I would expect that they should have some quality control in
>> their mfg to eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and
>> comparison with the inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets,
>> it appears that they are 'deeper' into the countersunk area , and
>> possibly the shoulder of the brake material that holds them was
>> thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway replacement pads on on there
>> way. Something to keep in mind when you do your conditionals or
>> change tires.
>>
>> Deems atronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
>> target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/= - MATRONICS
>> cs.com/" ; -Matt Dralle, List Admin=========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation |
Which way does the wind blow at your home airport? e.g., do you do more landings
with a crosswind from the left, than from the right? Also, where is your hangar
with respect to the usual runway? Are you making mostly left turns?
As others have noted, wear on the outside of the tires is due to the spring gear
leg,which hangs low prior to touchdown. See the same thing with spring gear
Cessnas.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281509#281509
Message 13
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first picture
--------------------------------------------------
From: "tsts4" <tsts4@verizon.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 10:10 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: FWF Kit
>
>
>> I was quite surprised to see
>> firesleeves on the fluid hoses.
>>
>
>
> Pascal,
> To satisfy my curiosity, do the fluid hoses in the FWF kit have external
> fire sleeves like the 1st pic or integral firesleeves like the 124-6J hose
> in the 2nd pic?
>
> Thanks!
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> 728TT (reserved)
> RV-10 Empacone, Wings
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281496#281496
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/hosefs1_114.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/hose124_6j_110.jpg
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
Another good technique for edge dressing is called "draw filling" wherein a
standard fine file is turned 90 degrees or perpendicular to the work and
dragged lightly alone the work edge. Like others have said the edge still
needs to be "polished" with a de-burring wheel of some kind.
Dick Sipp
N110DV 210 hours
Message 15
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| Subject: | Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation |
Rick
Yep I sure am will arrive about noon so I have the 20 and 21 afternoons
free. Shoot me a e-mail off list and we can get together on of those
afternoons.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:36 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
Not my issue!!!! Ken Scott or aka...the ego deflator..told me that...not
really...just thought it was funny that both Deems and I had tire wear on
the left more than the right...you still coming in on the 20th?
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
Rick
It is not that you need to loose weight cause if that was the issue the wear
would be in the inside on the outside. Outside wear is very common on
spring steel gear give it time and it might get better as the gear gets more
wear and tare on it. Either that Vans needs to correct the axel angle on
the gear leg it self.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ricksked@cox.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
Same for me Deems.....I called Van's and Ken Scott said you and I need to
lose weight....actually my landings are so sweet that I still have the
little nibs on the tire after almost 80 hours :)
Rick
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left( pilot)
side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the tire, the Right
is also showing wear on the outside, but not as extreme.
What have others experienced?
So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes to
try and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the left tire
off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad dropped to the
floor! It appears that the shoulder that is supposed to hold the rivet
liner to the pad let go, and the rivet heads were "floating" inside of
the countersunk area. Fortunately there is minimal brake wear, and
therefore little movement in the brake when activated. But, if the brake
wear had been greater, there's a possibility that the pad/liner would
have moved and jammed it self against the brake disc. If this had
happened on landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for
that ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person
has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight. since
these were the parts that came with the kit from Cleveland, I would
expect that they should have some quality control in their mfg to
eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and comparison with the
inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets, it appears that they are
'deeper' into the countersunk area , and possibly the shoulder of the
brake material that holds them was thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway
replacement pads on on there way. Something to keep in mind when you do
your conditionals or change tires.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | 1" Scotchbrite Wheels |
I found this on someone's website recently.=C2- Looks like a great deal.
=C2- I'm not sure if it's the exact composition as the product from Avery
, etc., but the price is incredible.
http://www.surplussales.com/Tools-Accessories/T-Aabrasives.html
Sean Blair
COS
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: 1" Scotchbrite Wheels |
Ooooh. Great price. But some bad reviews in a Google search for this
vendor. But they have been around for quite some time...
I took a risk and ordered a package. I'll let you know if it turns out
poorly.
Chris
On Thu, Jan 14, 2010 at 1:55 PM, <dogsbark@comcast.net> wrote:
> I found this on someone's website recently. Looks like a great deal. I'm
> not sure if it's the exact composition as the product from Avery, etc., but
> the price is incredible.
>
>
> http://www.surplussales.com/Tools-Accessories/T-Aabrasives.html
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
> COS
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: 1" Scotchbrite Wheels |
That's enough to do 20 or 30 planes unless you used it as your primary
deburring too.
do not archive
Bill
ogsbark@comcast.net wrote:
>
> I found this on someone's website recently. Looks like a great deal.
> I'm not sure if it's the exact composition as the product from Avery,
> etc., but the price is incredible.
>
>
>
> http://www.surplussales.com/Tools-Accessories/T-Aabrasives.html
>
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
> COS
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: 1" Scotchbrite Wheels |
Heck of a deal. Looks just like the smallest ones from Avery.
On Thu, Jan 14, 2010 at 2:55 PM, <dogsbark@comcast.net> wrote:
> I found this on someone's website recently. Looks like a great deal. I'm
> not sure if it's the exact composition as the product from Avery, etc., but
> the price is incredible.
>
>
> http://www.surplussales.com/Tools-Accessories/T-Aabrasives.html
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
> COS
Message 20
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| Subject: | Door safety latch |
Van's has issued a service bulletin for their new door safety latch, which I installed
2 weeks ago. They have started shipping parts kits to those flying and
those who have purchased finish kits. See attached link or go to Van's website.
The latch works very nicely and can also be used to pull the door inward while
closing the door handle.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281560#281560
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/sb10_1_4_236.pdf
Message 21
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| Subject: | 1" Scotchbrite Wheels |
I like Deems way of deburring. Move to Arizona.
Robin
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 1" Scotchbrite Wheels
Heck of a deal. Looks just like the smallest ones from Avery.
On Thu, Jan 14, 2010 at 2:55 PM, <dogsbark@comcast.net> wrote:
> I found this on someone's website recently. Looks like a great deal. I'm
> not sure if it's the exact composition as the product from Avery, etc., but
> the price is incredible.
>
>
> http://www.surplussales.com/Tools-Accessories/T-Aabrasives.html
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
> COS
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Door safety latch |
Any pictures or install drawings you can share?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281563#281563
Message 23
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| Subject: | Door SB just posted |
Safety Latch for the Door SB was just posted...
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb10-1-4.pdf
I looked to see if details of the changes were online, but couldn't find
them. I guess who ever receives there kit in the mail first will need to
update us all.
Bob
Message 24
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| Subject: | Door safety latch |
Jim,
Can you post a picture of the new latch?
Thanks,
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Berry
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 8:10 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door safety latch
Van's has issued a service bulletin for their new door safety latch, which I
installed 2 weeks ago. They have started shipping parts kits to those flying
and those who have purchased finish kits. See attached link or go to Van's
website.
The latch works very nicely and can also be used to pull the door inward
while closing the door handle.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281560#281560
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/sb10_1_4_236.pdf
Message 25
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| Subject: | Door safety latch |
Anybody have the section 45A?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Berry
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 6:10 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door safety latch
Van's has issued a service bulletin for their new door safety latch, which I
installed 2 weeks ago. They have started shipping parts kits to those flying
and those who have purchased finish kits. See attached link or go to Van's
website.
The latch works very nicely and can also be used to pull the door inward
while closing the door handle.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281560#281560
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/sb10_1_4_236.pdf
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation |
If we actually think about it.... if the gear were perfectly straight, we w
ould simply wear out the center of the tire.... and then we're done.- The
way it is now, we wear out mostly a part of the tire that would never get
used, and then we get to turn them around and it's a brand new part of the
tire again.- What the hell are we bitching about!
Don McDonald
--- On Thu, 1/14/10, Bob Turner <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu> wrote:
From: Bob Turner <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
Which way does the wind blow at your home airport? e.g., do you do more lan
dings with a crosswind from the left, than from the right? Also, where is y
our hangar with respect to the usual runway? Are you making mostly left tur
ns?
As others have noted, wear on the outside of the tires is due to the spring
gear leg,which hangs low prior to touchdown. See the same thing with sprin
g gear Cessnas.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281509#281509
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Door safety latch |
It looks very much like the Staniforth latch in the archives. I will take some
pictures when I am out at the hangar tomorrow. My drawings are also at the hangar
right now. With a little care, there should be no problem installing in a
finished and painted door.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281570#281570
Message 28
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| Subject: | Flap motor rod travel |
I am trying to set up my flap position sensor (ray allen) but the wings are
not on yet. Can someone tell me how far the rod travels out of the motor
assembly? Does it start fully retracted (reflex position) and then move "X"
inches out of the motor assembly which would be full flaps? I need to know
"X". Does this make sense?
Thanks
Chris
#40072
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: door handle & mechanism |
Hey Don,
Where did you find these CNC machined handles?
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McDonald
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism
Spring for the cnc machined handles.... they work perfectly, are
a direct Vans replacement, and they look WAY better.
Don McDonald
--- On Sat, 1/9/10, Roxanne and Mike Lefever
<roxianmike@msn.com> wrote:
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Date: Saturday, January 9, 2010, 8:57 PM
I can't be the first to declare the Van's door handle and
mechanism a total RPITA.......although not an engineer..........even I
could design a mousetrap better than this. After sanding the powder
coat off of the shaft handle, the spring is still too small to move on
the shaft and make the mechanism work. I thought bringing in my
Saturday night consulting engineer Jack (Daniels) would help but we
finally gave up tonight. Maybe a bigger hammer tomorrow will bring
success.
get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 30
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| Subject: | door handle & mechanism |
Sean
If these are the ones you want :
http://davidnellis.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album18
<http://davidnellis.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album18&id
=dsc00655> &id=dsc00655 contact David Nellis at : davidnellis691@comcast.net
I have a set and they are very nice. I also used Steve Deniri's billed
handles on the outside for a nice flush fit.
Cheers
Les
#40643
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: January-14-10 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism
Hey Don,
Where did you find these CNC machined handles?
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McDonald <mailto:building_partner@yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism
Spring for the cnc machined handles.... they work perfectly, are a direct
Vans replacement, and they look WAY better.
Don McDonald
--- On Sat, 1/9/10, Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com> wrote:
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism
I can't be the first to declare the Van's door handle and mechanism a total
RPITA.......although not an engineer..........even I could design a
mousetrap better than this. After sanding the powder coat off of the shaft
handle, the spring is still too small to move on the shaft and make the
mechanism work. I thought bringing in my Saturday night consulting engineer
Jack (Daniels) would help but we finally gave up tonight. Maybe a bigger
hammer tomorrow will bring success.
get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: door handle & mechanism |
Cool thanks
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 14, 2010, at 20:30, "Les Kearney" <kearney@shaw.ca> wrote:
> Sean
>
> If these are the ones you want : http://davidnellis.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album18&id=dsc00655
> contact David Nellis at : davidnellis691@comcast.net
>
> I have a set and they are very nice. I also used Steve Deniri's
> billed handles on the outside for a nice flush fit.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
> Sent: January-14-10 8:04 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism
>
> Hey Don,
>
> Where did you find these CNC machined handles?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Don McDonald
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 10:54 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism
>
> Spring for the cnc machined handles.... they work perfectly, are a
> direct Vans replacement, and they look WAY better.
> Don McDonald
>
> --- On Sat, 1/9/10, Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com>
> wrote:
>
> From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: door handle & mechanism
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, January 9, 2010, 8:57 PM
>
> I can't be the first to declare the Van's door handle and mechanism
> a total RPITA.......although not an engineer..........even I could
> design a mousetrap better than this. After sanding the powder coat
> off of the shaft handle, the spring is still too small to move on
> the shaft and make the mechanism work. I thought bringing in my
> Saturday night consulting engineer Jack (Daniels) would help but we
> finally gave up tonight. Maybe a bigger hammer tomorrow will bring
> success.
>
>
> get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> =nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
> blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | electric aileron trim |
Hey Guys
I'm getting ready to order my slow build wing kit and am wondering if
most builders have also bought the aileron trim kit from Vans. I intend
to install a Tru Tak autopilot and probably the Safety trim system that
Bob Newman sells. Not sure if using the autopilot etc makes any
difference with regards to the aileron trim system (I think not).
As I have already fabricated a rudder trim tab system very similar to
Brian Steeves, I'm wondering if the aileron system could also be
fabricated in house, as opposed to buying the Vans kit?
All opinions welcome. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
Message 33
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| Subject: | Door SB just posted |
Time of Compliance: Before further flight
So now we are grounded for an issue that we have known about for more than 2
years.
Will be interesting to see how long it takes to get the parts to us in the
deeeeep south.
A real pisser - in the middle of our peak flying season no less.
Ron
VH-XRM, not flying in Oz.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Friday, 15 January 2010 12:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door SB just posted
Safety Latch for the Door SB was just posted...
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb10-1-4.pdf
I looked to see if details of the changes were online, but couldn't find
them. I guess who ever receives there kit in the mail first will need to
update us all.
Bob
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