Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:34 AM - Re: Re: doors & insulation (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
2. 04:09 AM - Re: Re: Brake fluid (Neal George)
3. 04:57 AM - Re: Re: Wing Plans Page 23-5 Step 3 (John Trollinger)
4. 05:43 AM - Re: Left exhaust hanger (Roger Standley)
5. 08:43 AM - Conduit abrasion (Perry, Phil)
6. 08:43 AM - Re: Re: doors & insulation (Seano)
7. 09:21 AM - Re: Conduit abrasion (Strasnuts)
8. 09:25 AM - Re: Left exhaust hanger (Don McDonald)
9. 09:27 AM - Re: Left exhaust hanger (John Cox)
10. 09:44 AM - 2020 was Conduit abrasion (Robin Marks)
11. 09:55 AM - Re: 2020 was Conduit abrasion (Jim Berry)
12. 10:00 AM - Re: Left exhaust hanger (Jae Chang)
13. 10:09 AM - Re: Re: 2020 was Conduit abrasion (Robin Marks)
14. 10:30 AM - Re: 2020 was Conduit abrasion (Strasnuts)
15. 10:55 AM - Re: 2020 was Conduit abrasion (Jae Chang)
16. 11:34 AM - Re: 2020 was Conduit abrasion (Robin Marks)
17. 12:59 PM - Rack on door handle (Strasnuts)
18. 01:09 PM - Re: Re: Conduit abrasion (Perry, Phil)
19. 01:15 PM - Re: Re: Conduit abrasion (Seano)
20. 01:18 PM - Re: Rack on door handle (ricksked@cox.net)
21. 03:06 PM - Re: Rack on door handle (Ron B.)
22. 03:15 PM - Re: Re: Rack on door handle (Seano)
23. 03:32 PM - Re: Rack on door handle (Jeff Carpenter)
24. 03:50 PM - Re: Rack on door handle (Ron B.)
25. 03:50 PM - Re: Rack on door handle (Ben Westfall)
26. 03:57 PM - Re: Rack on door handle (Strasnuts)
27. 04:00 PM - Re: Rack on door handle (John Cumins)
28. 06:25 PM - From Van's on the door SB (Miller John)
29. 06:55 PM - Re: From Van's on the door SB (Pascal)
30. 07:19 PM - Floating Skybolts (Lenny Iszak)
31. 07:25 PM - Re: 1" Scotchbrite Wheels (Chris Colohan)
32. 07:35 PM - Re: Floating Skybolts (Jim Berry)
33. 09:20 PM - Re: From Van's on the door SB (Deems Davis)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: doors & insulation |
Interesting. Someone else had mentioned using 1120A311 which I
purchased. I have the older green top and find that most of the edges
are 1/4" or better. The only section that is consistently less than
1/4" is the bottom sill.
I'm guessing that the newer pink top is a bit thinner and more
consistent in edge thickness if you had to build them up. I've been
trying to figure out how to grind much of my edges down to 3/16" to fit
the A311.
So, I think I'm going to get 30' of the A411. Given the added thickness
of the headliner abric that will be underneath it, I think that will be
easier to work with.
Thanks
Bill
Geoff Combs wrote:
> This is what I used Danny. I used the 1/4" edge. I built all my edges
> up with fiberglass to put some strength back in the door frame area
> and it made the
> edge trim fit much better. It was a ton of work as Michael said but
> good results.
>
> 11 1120A411
> <http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=1120A411&sesnextrep=859151940559946&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist>
> 50 Ft. Edge-grip Rubber Seal, Bulb Opposite Grabber, 1/4" Edge, 3/8"
> Bulb Width
>
>
> Geoff
>
Message 2
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Hey John - I'd like to see the photos...
neal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 1:25 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Brake fluid
I found a great solution from an RV8 builder, while attending the
invaluable Airflow Performance Fuel Injector Training School in
November. It had a mounted fill tube, AN fitting and two Adel clamps to
store the tube when needed. Picture available on individual requests
posted Offline. Choices of distribution lines and cylinders makes a big
difference in potential leaks. I am an advocate for alternative fluid
to H-5606 and use of Bonaco lines.
John Cox
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 10:59 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Brake fluid
All of the replies are helpful but I would also add that you should fill
up the brake lines early in the game before you install the panel. Plus
test them for proper operation. I had two leaks (the Matco Brakes and at
the pedals) that were real bears to get fixed and VERY VERY messy. Brake
fluid is very messy stuff. Working upside down with the wrenches was a
nasty side line to the build.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281187#281187
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Plans Page 23-5 Step 3 |
just cut it in half, the dimensions of the whole thing are on the next page
or so. you do not have to be very exact as yhere is plenty of play when you
put it all together
On Mon, Jan 18, 2010 at 11:44 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>wrote:
>
> I have the correct tube identified, but don't see where it says to cut in
> half or any other dimension.
>
>
> John Kirkland wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm at the same spot, cut it exactly in half.
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 #40333
>> N540XP (reserved)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282180#282180
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Left exhaust hanger |
Don,
Do you remember where you found those red rubber washers that you used
to isolate the upper cable end from the bracket? Are they heat resistant
or anything special?
Thank you,
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McDonald<mailto:building_partner@yahoo.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Left exhaust hanger
I am assuming you are using the stock Vetterman.... that being
said, I tossed the original brackets aside, and built my own out of
stainless. (I know several of you out there, just said, "of course he
did").... It seemed to me that to be properly positioned the bracket
needed to be bent, and the original bracket had lot's of mounting holes
in it, which would have made it even weaker. The attached pics should
help. Just zoom in on the first one to the actual bracket. I made a
couple of extra if you're interested.
100+ hours and no problems whatsoever.
Don McDonald
--- On Mon, 1/18/10, Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
wrote:
From: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Left exhaust hanger
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Date: Monday, January 18, 2010, 9:08 AM
<jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com<http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to
=jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>>
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/A9mT9HXyj7yKkkz3NrP4kQ?authkey=Gv1
sRgCI7088GZlYCc2AE&feat=directlink<http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo
/A9mT9HXyj7yKkkz3NrP4kQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7088GZlYCc2AE&feat=directlink
>
I am looking to get some ideas of doing the left exhaust
hangar mount. Does anyone have any photos of what they did? It seems a
bit rube goldberg as there is a lot of interference points: the air
cooler, the heat scat, tubes, etc. Any-->
http://www.mat====================
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Conduit abrasion |
This morning I shot a quick video describing some of my questions
regarding abrasion protection of conduit.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saRUrF2vtMI
In 1990, we used text and thought it was great. In 2000, it was the
cherry on top if you could send digital photos. Now it's 2010 and video
is where we are. On a side note, what's 2020?
Phil
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: doors & insulation |
Hey Bill,
I don't know if the pink canopy is any better in the edges, they are very
inconsistent but then again I am using an aftermarket seal. I have been
building the "gutter" up with thin strips of fiberglass until it is flat on
the outside. When it got close I filled it flat with epoxy and milled
glass. You have to use something like glass strips because it has to be
structural, you end up trimming so much down on the other side. I was lost
for a while and finally started seeing the light at the end of the tunnel
when taking off the door a million times and touching up each spot that
looked too close or filling anything with a gap too wide. I'm sure a lot of
people are much faster at this. I know if I had to do another RV-10 I would
do the same seal and it would go a lot faster knowing what I know now.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 3:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: doors & insulation
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> Interesting. Someone else had mentioned using 1120A311 which I purchased.
> I have the older green top and find that most of the edges are 1/4" or
> better. The only section that is consistently less than 1/4" is the
> bottom sill.
>
> I'm guessing that the newer pink top is a bit thinner and more consistent
> in edge thickness if you had to build them up. I've been trying to figure
> out how to grind much of my edges down to 3/16" to fit the A311.
>
> So, I think I'm going to get 30' of the A411. Given the added thickness
> of the headliner abric that will be underneath it, I think that will be
> easier to work with.
>
> Thanks
> Bill
>
> Geoff Combs wrote:
>> This is what I used Danny. I used the 1/4" edge. I built all my edges up
>> with fiberglass to put some strength back in the door frame area and it
>> made the
>> edge trim fit much better. It was a ton of work as Michael said but good
>> results.
>> 11 1120A411
>> <http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=1120A411&sesnextrep=859151940559946&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist>
>> 50 Ft. Edge-grip Rubber Seal, Bulb Opposite Grabber, 1/4" Edge, 3/8" Bulb
>> Width
>>
>> Geoff
>>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Conduit abrasion |
Here are some pics of mine. I did a similar setup but used two on each side instead
of three. I cut my holes close tolerance under the seats and wrapped caterpillar
grommets around them. The exiting holes are so tight they can't move.
I stuffed two lines in one hole wrapped again with the grommet.
Maybe I will abrasion tape around the step where they contact the conduit like
you stated.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282254#282254
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05540_151.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05541_923.jpg
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Left exhaust hanger |
All during my build I wandered through my brothers shop and confiscated eve
rything that I thought that I might be able to use during my build.- Amon
g those were several sections of rubber left over from military/govt projec
ts from the past.- Then I just make the washers out of that.- I can sen
d you some if you'd like.... got lots.... sent some to Pascal last week.
Don McDonald
--- On Tue, 1/19/10, Roger Standley <taildragon@msn.com> wrote:
From: Roger Standley <taildragon@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Left exhaust hanger
Don,
-
Do you remember where you found those red rubber washers that you used to i
solate the upper cable end from the bracket? Are they heat resistant or any
thing special?
-
Thank you,
-
Roger
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McDonald
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Left exhaust hanger
I am assuming you are using the stock Vetterman....- that being said, I t
ossed the original brackets aside, and built my own out of stainless.- (I
know several of you out there, just said, "of course he did").... It seeme
d to me that to be properly positioned the bracket needed to be bent, and t
he original bracket had lot's of mounting holes in it, which would have mad
e it even weaker.- The attached pics should help.- Just zoom in on the
first one to the actual bracket.- I made a couple of extra if you're inte
rested.-
100+ hours and no problems whatsoever.-
Don McDonald
--- On Mon, 1/18/10, Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com> wrote:
From: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Left exhaust hanger
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/A9mT9HXyj7yKkkz3NrP4kQ?authkey=Gv1sR
gCI7088GZlYCc2AE&feat=directlink
I am looking to get some ideas of doing the left exhaust hangar mount. Does
anyone have any photos of what they did? It seems a bit rube goldberg as t
here is a lot of interference points: the air cooler, the heat scat, tubes,
etc. Any--> http://www.mat================
====
=0A=0A=0A
Message 9
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| Subject: | Left exhaust hanger |
For those that want to purchase Vans exhaust hanger kit. I could pick
it up at Van's, cut the tube into two pieces and provide two new beads
at no cost. The rubber hoses "work harden" over time, they swell and
will slip off many prepared tubes. YMMV. The errant aircraft was a ten
year old RV-6A built by a repeat offender, tech advisor and RV-10
builder. Five separate fixed brackets would all break after a year or
two(Stainless, Titanium, Aluminum... it just did not matter), where
attached at the lower side of the right rear cylinder. Vans advice was
their flex hose (properly installed) route. First year of installation
and the hose slipped right off without proper prep. Scott's method
should slow the slipping process. The unfortunate thing was the hot
exhaust stack resting on the resin of the fiberglass lower cowl once the
connection was freed.
Pictures of Deems shows a system which should work just as well.
Those with auto or motorcycle experience will know what is meant by a
"bead installed" on the hose end of the tubing prior to clamping.
The nice thing about Experimental is that everything is Okay cause you
the builder set the standard. The bad thing about certificated aircraft
is someone defines a single method of compliance and others become
liable.
John
do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Left exhaust hanger
John, I roughed mine up with very coarse sand paper and it has not
slipped in 650 hours.
-Scott
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 18, 2010, at 10:17 PM, "John Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> wrote:
Using Vans metal tubing with rubber hose stock and dual clamps,
I found that with time the clamps will allow the hose to slide down from
the initial position. The exhaust stack made contact with the
fiberglass lower cowl.
A beading tool allowed a quick ridge to be formed on the metal
tube stock to capture the hose and clamp. Looks like it will be a
longer term fix.
Some of you might find the similar change over time.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 12:20 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Left exhaust hanger
I am assuming you are using the stock Vetterman.... that being said, I
tossed the original brackets aside, and built my own out of stainless.
(I know several of you out there, just said, "of course he did").... It
seemed to me that to be properly positioned the bracket needed to be
bent, and the original bracket had lot's of mounting holes in it, which
would have made it even weaker. The attached pics should help. Just
zoom in on the first one to the actual bracket. I made a couple of
extra if you're interested.
100+ hours and no problems whatsoever.
Don McDonald
--- On Mon, 1/18/10, Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com> wrote:
From: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Left exhaust hanger
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Date: Monday, January 18, 2010, 9:08 AM
<jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/A9mT9HXyj7yKkkz3NrP4kQ?authkey=Gv1
s
RgCI7088GZlYCc2AE&feat=directlink
I am looking to get some ideas of doing the left exhaust hangar
mount. Does anyone have any photos of what they did? It seems a bit rube
goldberg as there is a lot of interference points: the air cooler, the
heat scat, tubes, etc. Any-->
http://www.mat====================
Message 10
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| Subject: | 2020 was Conduit abrasion |
Phil,
I cannot begin to tell you what we will be doing in 2020 but
I know in 2011 we will start filming in 3D as 2010 CES was all about 3D
TV's and CES 2011 is already slated for HEAVY 3D video cameras. I
suspect in just a few years we will all have OLED tablets or "scrolls"
as computers. If you have not seen OLED displays check this out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbTO5VM6s-
Small OLED's started showing up in buttons where the small
face of the button is a OLED display showing the status of the button
"On" with green background, "off" with red background. Now the buttons
have animations and small video loops and one can easily imagine a
series of buttons on the panel that when you select for example a
Landing Procedure all the appropriate buttons turn a specific color or
display or give flashing visual warnings when they are not selected for
that specific phase of flight and one button is dedicated to a check
list etc...
Another really cool item I saw at CES 2010 was a Microsoft
Table Top called Surface Touch with full touch to control capabilities.
Check it out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kr1O917o4jI
So for 2020 I expect the entire panel to be one large OLED multi touch
display where I can reconfigure my panel any way I wish at home and then
load the new configuration into the display by just resting my phone on
the surface. When I choose the IFR procedure a large 3D IFR plate is geo
referenced on the displayed along with any/all relevant information. Now
if I could only get it to perform a perfect hot start.
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 8:37 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Conduit abrasion
This morning I shot a quick video describing some of my questions
regarding abrasion protection of conduit.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saRUrF2vtMI
In 1990, we used text and thought it was great. In 2000, it was the
cherry on top if you could send digital photos. Now it's 2010 and video
is where we are. On a side note, what's 2020?
Phil
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01/18/10 16:56:00
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: 2020 was Conduit abrasion |
Robin,
Your youtube link is invalid. Thanks.
Jim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282265#282265
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Left exhaust hanger |
Thanks Robin. I think this new setup might work well. Just mocked up now
and not final fitted yet. Robin used a clamp around the mount against
the firewall, which i had not considered. It actually looks like the
better spot for a clamp. There is much more clearance you can easily see
in the pics. It is a tight fit for the clamp but you can see the wedge
used to give a bit of room.
before:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/A9mT9HXyj7yKkkz3NrP4kQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7088GZlYCc2AE&feat=directlink
after:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-ictyfdhx9QfrQrIAIFkvQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7088GZlYCc2AE&feat=directlink
The right side is much easier. The left side is more crowded because the
2 4 6 cylinders push the exhaust further aft. However, too far aft, then
the oil cooler starts interfering. The sweet spot is definitely smaller
on the left side.
Jae
40533
Robin Marks wrote:
> Same as the right for us.
>
> Robin
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: 2020 was Conduit abrasion |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbTO5VM6s-4
How about this...
Thanks,
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Berry
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 9:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 2020 was Conduit abrasion
Robin,
Your youtube link is invalid. Thanks.
Jim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282265#282265
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01/19/10 07:34:00
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: 2020 was Conduit abrasion |
dangit I just ordered two of my G3X screens!
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282274#282274
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: 2020 was Conduit abrasion |
http://cbs5.com/technology/lpd.television.imaging.2.1427833.html
Here's another one for large screens called LPD. They use lasers at
about 10% of the power of lcd and plasma screens.
Message 16
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| Subject: | 2020 was Conduit abrasion |
It's 10% of some Plasma's but probably 40% power usage of LCD. Plasma's
will soon be banned in California due to their high power consumption in
both on & rest mode.
Robin
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jae Chang
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2020 was Conduit abrasion
http://cbs5.com/technology/lpd.television.imaging.2.1427833.html
Here's another one for large screens called LPD. They use lasers at
about 10% of the power of lcd and plasma screens.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01/19/10 07:34:00
Message 17
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| Subject: | Rack on door handle |
Anyone know if you end up using the middle piece of rack gear that the plans tell
you to "trim and save". I would like to use it for something else.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282308#282308
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Conduit abrasion |
Hey Sean,
I'm planning to add the tape to the conduit and not to the step...
As tight as those steps are, I can only imagine how hard it will be to
pull the step and tape through the mount.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Strasnuts [mailto:sean@braunandco.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 11:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Conduit abrasion
Here are some pics of mine. I did a similar setup but used two on each
side instead of three. I cut my holes close tolerance under the seats
and wrapped caterpillar grommets around them. The exiting holes are so
tight they can't move. I stuffed two lines in one hole wrapped again
with the grommet.
Maybe I will abrasion tape around the step where they contact the
conduit like you stated.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282254#282254
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05540_151.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05541_923.jpg
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Conduit abrasion |
Good point. That would kind of take away the reason to make the plate to
make the step removable.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 2:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Conduit abrasion
Hey Sean,
I'm planning to add the tape to the conduit and not to the step...
As tight as those steps are, I can only imagine how hard it will be to
pull the step and tape through the mount.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Strasnuts [mailto:sean@braunandco.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 11:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Conduit abrasion
Here are some pics of mine. I did a similar setup but used two on each
side instead of three. I cut my holes close tolerance under the seats
and wrapped caterpillar grommets around them. The exiting holes are so
tight they can't move. I stuffed two lines in one hole wrapped again
with the grommet.
Maybe I will abrasion tape around the step where they contact the
conduit like you stated.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282254#282254
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05540_151.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05541_923.jpg
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Rack on door handle |
How soon do you need it? I have both of mine ( I think) since I used Hendricks
locks. Ill mail them to you
Rick Sked
------Original Message------
From: Strasnuts
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Jan 19, 2010 12:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rack on door handle
Anyone know if you end up using the middle piece of rack gear that the plans tell
you to "trim and save". I would like to use it for something else.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282308#282308
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Rack on door handle |
Just about finished with the construction and haven't come across a call out for
their use. I would say no.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282326#282326
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| Subject: | Re: Rack on door handle |
Thanks Ron.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron B." <cfxoa@klis.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 4:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rack on door handle
>
> Just about finished with the construction and haven't come across a call
> out for their use. I would say no.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282326#282326
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Rack on door handle |
I have some vague memory of using it as a guide for some aspect of the
door assembly, but its use isn't permanent.
On Jan 19, 2010, at 12:58 PM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> Anyone know if you end up using the middle piece of rack gear that
> the plans tell you to "trim and save". I would like to use it for
> something else.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282308#282308
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Rack on door handle |
Page 45-13 , step 4. Operate the latch mechanism so as to cause the rack trimmings
to extend
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282331#282331
Message 25
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| Subject: | Rack on door handle |
Yes the plans have you use the cutoff shorter pieces to mark the doors where
to hog out fiberglass.
It pretty much requires the shorter pieces to be able to install the
mechanism and the plans have you install the mechanism to figure out how
much material to remove from the door to be able to install the door handle
with the full length pieces.
If doing it again though I would seriously consider cutting them a bit
longer to have more travel for the door pins like was mentioned in the last
couple days.
-Ben Westfall
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Rack on door handle |
I finally found it in the plans. I read right over it a couple of times. Sorry
I should have taken more time before I asked.
Rick, I still need the extra for my third pin.
Thanks everyone.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282334#282334
Message 27
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| Subject: | Rack on door handle |
I think I would just order a few more and then make them as long as you need
for the travel aspect of it. I am going with the 3rd party door handle and
locks. Vans are way to crude of a design and not the quality I want.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 3:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rack on door handle
Yes the plans have you use the cutoff shorter pieces to mark the doors where
to hog out fiberglass.
It pretty much requires the shorter pieces to be able to install the
mechanism and the plans have you install the mechanism to figure out how
much material to remove from the door to be able to install the door handle
with the full length pieces.
If doing it again though I would seriously consider cutting them a bit
longer to have more travel for the door pins like was mentioned in the last
couple days.
-Ben Westfall
Message 28
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| Subject: | From Van's on the door SB |
FYI. I was hoping for a better understanding on this issue.......
Begin forwarded message:
> From: "Gus Funnell" <gusf@vansaircraft.com>
> Date: January 19, 2010 6:08:59 PM CST
> To: rudi.greyling@accenture.com, rv10builder@verizon.net, ddddsp@juno.com
> , gengrumpy@aol.com, dav1111@suddenlink.net, bob@thelefflers.com, robertbrunk@mac.com
> , bob.condrey@baesystems.com, scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
> Subject: Service Bulletin
>
> Thanks for your email regarding the recent RV-10 SB.
>
> The point of any SB is to benefit both RV builders/pilots AND Van's
> Aircraft with increased safety and reduced costs. Most of the
> complaints we get about SBs list only the builder's personal
> concerns about difficulty/cost of compliance, or their belief that
> there is a "better way".
>
> We always consider those issues, but we also have to balance them
> with broader concerns; to maintain Van's Aircraft as a viable
> company, and to protect it against future liability. There will
> always be potential for some conflict between these two points of
> view, which we hope that our customers will understand.
>
> As with all Service Bulletins in the certified and experimental
> world, it is not mandatory that owner/operators comply with them.
> It is up to the owner to comply or not, at their sole discretion. By
> issuing this service bulletin, Van's is recommending that it be
> complied with.
>
> Fly Safe,
>
> Vans
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
We all got the same response. At least they responded, but I was with
Scott,
Vans response-
As with all Service Bulletins in the certified and experimental world,
it is not mandatory that owner/operators comply with them. It is up to
the owner to comply or not, at their sole discretion. By issuing this
service bulletin, Van's is recommending that it be complied with.
Would have like to see the compliance as being "optional" since what
Vans is giving us really is not the only solution, there are much better
ways to do this, as many of us have already mentioned and their SB is
not opening that option with their verbiage.
Pasca;
From: Miller John
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 6:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: From Van's on the door SB
FYI. I was hoping for a better understanding on this issue.......
Begin forwarded message:
From: "Gus Funnell" <gusf@vansaircraft.com>
Date: January 19, 2010 6:08:59 PM CST
To: rudi.greyling@accenture.com, rv10builder@verizon.net,
ddddsp@juno.com, gengrumpy@aol.com, dav1111@suddenlink.net,
bob@thelefflers.com, robertbrunk@mac.com, bob.condrey@baesystems.com,
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
Subject: Service Bulletin
Thanks for your email regarding the recent RV-10 SB.
The point of any SB is to benefit both RV builders/pilots AND Van's
Aircraft with increased safety and reduced costs. Most of the complaints
we get about SBs list only the builder's personal concerns about
difficulty/cost of compliance, or their belief that there is a "better
way".
We always consider those issues, but we also have to balance them with
broader concerns; to maintain Van's Aircraft as a viable company, and to
protect it against future liability. There will always be potential for
some conflict between these two points of view, which we hope that our
customers will understand.
As with all Service Bulletins in the certified and experimental world,
it is not mandatory that owner/operators comply with them. It is up to
the owner to comply or not, at their sole discretion. By issuing this
service bulletin, Van's is recommending that it be complied with.
Fly Safe,
Vans
=
Message 30
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| Subject: | Floating Skybolts |
I just realized the SkyBolts I ordered for the firewall are the floating type.
I'm using hinges on the cowl split line.
Would the floating type allow the cowling to move away from the firewall creating
a bigger gap than what i've been crafting so carefully? Or should I just order
the fixed receptacles?
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282374#282374
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: 1" Scotchbrite Wheels |
Well, I can now tell you what you get:
- I got my package today, after ordering on the 14th. Fast!
- A big bag of scotch brite wheels. 49 of them, actually. (One short! Oh
well.)
- They are of the type GP-5AF. Compare this to Avery's CP-7A. (Nope, don't
know how to decode these numbers.)
- Avery's are gray, hard, and can take a corner off of a piece of aluminum
no problem. These are reddish, slightly squishy, and barely seem to scuff
aluminum when you rub it on it. If you run them for a while over a rough
edge you might convince yourself that it polished the burr to make it
sharper.
In short? A great deal, if you need these wheels. I'm not sure what I'm
going to do with them. :-) If anyone wants one (or 5) and would like to
pick them up from me, you are more than welcome to take them.
Chris
On Thu, Jan 14, 2010 at 4:37 PM, Chris Colohan <rv10@colohan.com> wrote:
> Ooooh. Great price. But some bad reviews in a Google search for this
> vendor. But they have been around for quite some time...
>
> I took a risk and ordered a package. I'll let you know if it turns out
> poorly.
>
> Chris
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 14, 2010 at 1:55 PM, <dogsbark@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> I found this on someone's website recently. Looks like a great deal. I'm
>> not sure if it's the exact composition as the product from Avery, etc., but
>> the price is incredible.
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.surplussales.com/Tools-Accessories/T-Aabrasives.html
>>
>>
>>
>> Sean Blair
>>
>> COS
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Floating Skybolts |
Lenny,
I did a large oil door similar to Dave Saylor's and used the floating Skybolt fasteners
at the firewall. There is no discernible change in the firewall to cowling
gap.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282376#282376
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: From Van's on the door SB |
So we now have it from the horses mouth.
This is CYA !
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
On 1/19/2010 7:22 PM, Miller John wrote:
> FYI. I was hoping for a better understanding on this issue.......
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
>> *From: *"Gus Funnell" <gusf@vansaircraft.com
>> <mailto:gusf@vansaircraft.com>>
>> *Date: *January 19, 2010 6:08:59 PM CST
>> *To: *rudi.greyling@accenture.com
>> <mailto:rudi.greyling@accenture.com>, rv10builder@verizon.net
>> <mailto:rv10builder@verizon.net>, ddddsp@juno.com
>> <mailto:ddddsp@juno.com>, gengrumpy@aol.com
>> <mailto:gengrumpy@aol.com>, dav1111@suddenlink.net
>> <mailto:dav1111@suddenlink.net>, bob@thelefflers.com
>> <mailto:bob@thelefflers.com>, robertbrunk@mac.com
>> <mailto:robertbrunk@mac.com>, bob.condrey@baesystems.com
>> <mailto:bob.condrey@baesystems.com>, scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
>> <mailto:scottmschmidt@yahoo.com>
>> *Subject: **Service Bulletin*
>>
>> Thanks for your email regarding the recent RV-10 SB.
>>
>> The point of any SB is to benefit both RV builders/pilots AND Van's
>> Aircraft with increased safety and reduced costs. Most of the
>> complaints we get about SBs list only the builder's personal concerns
>> about difficulty/cost of compliance, or their belief that there is a
>> "better way".
>>
>> We always consider those issues, but we also have to balance them
>> with broader concerns; to maintain Van's Aircraft as a viable
>> company, and to protect it against future liability. There will
>> always be potential for some conflict between these two points of
>> view, which we hope that our customers will understand.
>>
>> As with all Service Bulletins in the certified and experimental
>> world, it is not mandatory that owner/operators comply with them. It
>> is up to the owner to comply or not, at their sole discretion. By
>> issuing this service bulletin, Van's is recommending that it be
>> complied with.
>>
>> Fly Safe,
>>
>> Vans
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
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