Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:07 AM - Garmin G3X EIS & Auto Pilot (Robin Marks)
2. 05:03 AM - Re: Wing Wiring and Conduit (johngoodman)
3. 07:48 AM - Re: Garmin G3X EIS & Auto Pilot (Seano)
4. 09:55 AM - Windscreen install before panel? (jayb)
5. 10:34 AM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Jim Berry)
6. 10:55 AM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Rob Kochman)
7. 11:54 AM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Pascal)
8. 12:32 PM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (jayb)
9. 02:07 PM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
10. 03:05 PM - Re: Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Pascal)
11. 05:00 PM - New product introduction: TCW Technologies (Bob-tcw)
12. 05:03 PM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Linn Walters)
13. 07:15 PM - Wheels, chocks and fiberglass (Miller John)
14. 07:39 PM - Re: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass (ricksked@cox.net)
15. 08:28 PM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Dave Leikam)
16. 09:19 PM - Re: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
17. 11:37 PM - Re: Door SB (Michael Wellenzohn)
Message 1
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Subject: | Garmin G3X EIS & Auto Pilot |
As a heads up on the 20th Garmin announced the EIS component of the G3X
including sensors would be available in February. They further announced
an integrated Autopilot interface when mated to the TruTrak GX (not on
TruTrak's website that I can find). As Garmin says:
TruTrak GX Pilot autopilot has been designed to integrate seamlessly
with the G3X, will enjoy advanced autopilot features that can be
operated right from the PFD. Using controls and status indications
derived from Garmin's certified GFC 700, the G3X autopilot interface
implements sophisticated flight control modes including altitude
preselect and capture, heading hold, GPS navigation with turn
anticipation, and coupled VNAV descents. When used in conjunction with a
GNS 430W or 530W, the G3X can also fly coupled holding patterns,
procedure turns, and WAAS approaches.
Cool!
More basic info:
The basic G3X system is available at a starting street price of $9,995
and includes a GDU 370 glass display, GSU 73 ADAHRS and engine interface
unit, GMU 44 magnetometer and GTP 59 air temperature probe. The G3X
engine sensor kits for Lycoming, Continental, Rotax and Jabiru engines
are sold separately. A software update that adds EIS and autopilot
features is expected to be available for free from www.garmin.com in
February 2010.
Someone on the list was concerned that Garmin may not offer their ADS-b
package for the G3X. Garmin stated in their press release Wednesday:
"Regardless of the type of aircraft a customer operates, they should
never have to sacrifice features or services that enhance situational
awareness, improve safety of flight"
Ok, marketing 101 but as I always thought why would they turn down
$9,000 by not making the new ADS-b available on the G3X?
Robin
BTW, I guess I feel compelled to say I have no ties to Garmin other than
my G900x, 396, Nuvi 200 & 205, Golf GPS and a Garmin T-Shirt I
occasionally use when changing my Aeroshell.
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Wing Wiring and Conduit |
Kent,
I used Vans conduit through 3/4" holes like the others have mentioned. For the
AoA, I enlarged the tooling hole near the pitot line hole for the second plastic
tube.
John
--------
#40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282861#282861
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Garmin G3X EIS & Auto Pilot |
Thanks Robin,
I've been too busy on the doors to keep up with the latest. I feel
pretty good about my recent purchase.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 22, 2010, at 2:14, "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com> wrote:
> As a heads up on the 20th Garmin announced the EIS component of the
> G3X including sensors would be available in February. They further
> announced an integrated Autopilot interface when mated to the
> TruTrak GX (not on TruTrak=99s website that I can find). As
Garmin say
> s:
>
>
> TruTrak GX Pilot autopilot has been designed to integrate seamlessly
> with the G3X, will enjoy advanced autopilot features that can be
> operated right from the PFD. Using controls and status indications
> derived from Garmin=99s certified GFC 700, the G3X autopilot
interface
> implements sophisticated flight control modes including altitude pr
> eselect and capture, heading hold, GPS navigation with turn anticipa
> tion, and coupled VNAV descents. When used in conjunction with a GNS
> 430W or 530W, the G3X can also fly coupled holding patterns, proced
> ure turns, and WAAS approaches.
>
>
> Cool!
>
>
> More basic info:
>
> The basic G3X system is available at a starting street price of
> $9,995 and includes a GDU 370 glass display, GSU 73 ADAHRS and
> engine interface unit, GMU 44 magnetometer and GTP 59 air
> temperature probe. The G3X engine sensor kits for Lycoming,
> Continental, Rotax and Jabiru engines are sold separately. A
> software update that adds EIS and autopilot features is expected to
> be available for free from www.garmin.com in February 2010.
>
>
> Someone on the list was concerned that Garmin may not offer their
> ADS-b package for the G3X. Garmin stated in their press release
> Wednesday:
>
>
> =9CRegardless of the type of aircraft a customer operates, they
should
> never have to sacrifice features or services that enhance situation
> al awareness, improve safety of flight=9D
>
>
> Ok, marketing 101 but as I always thought why would they turn down
> $9,000 by not making the new ADS-b available on the G3X?
>
>
> Robin
>
>
> BTW, I guess I feel compelled to say I have no ties to Garmin other
> than my G900x, 396, Nuvi 200 & 205, Golf GPS and a Garmin T-Shirt I
> occasionally use when changing my Aeroshell.
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Windscreen install before panel? |
Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I can't think
of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will get warmer due to
reduced circulation while crawling around.
Cheers,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
Jay,
I installed my windscreen before the panel, and would do it that way again. I would
suggest installing any defrost fans you may want before doing the windscreen.
I also painted the lower 2-3" of the inside of the windscreen to hide the
fiberglass fairing you will create on the outside. That area is very difficult
to work in once the windscreen is in place.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282919#282919
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
I did all my panel, subpanel, and wiring work with the top forward fuselage
on a work bench. Made it much easier than crawling around the fuselage.
http://kochman.net/N819K/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/img_0624.jpg
That's what I'd recommend, if you haven't riveted that part on yet. If you
have, it probably doesn't matter whether the windscreen is done before or
after.
-Rob
On Fri, Jan 22, 2010 at 9:53 AM, jayb <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I can't
> think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will get warmer
> due to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the components. no
problem if you mean setting up the wiring and layout I would get all that
backend stuff done first, get all the wires positioned than close out the
upper fusellage and install the windscreen. This will help with where to
position your fans in relation to the avionics but more importantly it will
allow you to get easy access to move/route wires around if they don't fit in
a certain place.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>
> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I can't
> think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will get
> warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
To clarify... The forward fuse is riveted on and the engine is hung. The fans are
in place.
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282950#282950
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
I did most of my panel work with the forward fuselage section upside
down on the bench. I would wait as long as possible before riveting
that whole section in place. The engine can go on, landing gear, the
top fitted - you just can't final attach the top.
Then I riveted it in place and continued to finish the panel. I
attached the top, fitted the doors, glued the windows... everything
short of the windsheild.
I'm still tinkering around inside and trying to hold off on the
windsheild until the last possible moment. I find everything easier to
do with the windsheild off. It's been cut and fitted but it is in
storage until I have to put it on.
Bill
jayb wrote:
>
> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I can't think
of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will get warmer due
to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
makes no difference than, however do not install the avionics until after
the windscreen.. between fitting the plexi and resin you don't want to worry
about it going near the avionics.
This is what I am doing not what I did.I don't have the upper fusellage
riveted yet so doing all my wiring was easy enough.
Have fun..
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 12:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Windscreen install before panel?
>
> To clarify... The forward fuse is riveted on and the engine is hung. The
> fans are in place.
>
> Jay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282950#282950
>
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | New product introduction: TCW Technologies |
Fellow RV builders,
TCW Technologies, is pleased to introduce our newest product, Integrated
Back-up Battery System (IBBS).
IBBS is a complete back-up battery solution for powering critical
electronics such as EFIS, GPS, Autopilots and Engine monitors. The IBBS
product combines a rechargeable ni-mh battery, a smart charger circuit
and the transfer switch in a single enclosure that is easy to install
and only 1/2 the weight of a comparable lead acid battery.
The IBBS provides about 1 hour of back-up endurance for typical EFIS and
GPS systems; additionally, it includes surge suppression and allows
systems to operational before and during engine cranking.
The IBBS system is very easy to install and eliminates other field
installed components such as transfer contactors and diodes.
The IBBS product has been tested by Garmin for use with their G3x series
of products.
For all the details please visit our web site: www.tcwtech.com
Thanks,
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC.
rv-10 40176
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
My two pennies: for me, the last two items that get riveted on are the
forward upper fuselage and the cabin top. Almost all the wiring will be
done prior to attaching the forward upper fuselage. Before you are
ready to attach the windshield, fit the windshield and then use a
sharpie to mark the outside edge on the fuselage top. Paint the forward
fuselage top with a flat black paint .... look for 'textured' black in
rattle can.
Linn
Pascal wrote:
>
> if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the components. no
> problem if you mean setting up the wiring and layout I would get all
> that backend stuff done first, get all the wires positioned than close
> out the upper fusellage and install the windscreen. This will help with
> where to position your fans in relation to the avionics but more
> importantly it will allow you to get easy access to move/route wires
> around if they don't fit in a certain place.
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>
>>
>> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I
>> can't think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will
>> get warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Jay
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Wheels, chocks and fiberglass |
Just a note to the list, for whatever it's worth.
Found my nose wheel flat today at the hangar (not sure why yet).
I use the small, aluminum chocks with litening holes you can get from
Srpuce and other supply houses.
As the tire slowly deflated, the wheel pants settled down onto the
chock.
The top of the chock did a good job crushing the bottom of the front
part of the nose fairing as the chock is wider than the tire.
Now I have to do fiberglass repair and cut the chocks down so that
they are no wider than the tire itself.
You might check your chocks out to avoid similar headache in the
future.....and remember this when you are parked on a transient ramp
somewhere (I take my chocks with me).
grumpy
N184JM
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass |
Great tip Grumpy....not normally a concern for folks used to retracts
Once you get pants you need to worry bout "PANTS ON THE GROUND" lol.....
------Original Message------
From: Miller John
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Jan 22, 2010 7:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass
Just a note to the list, for whatever it's worth.
Found my nose wheel flat today at the hangar (not sure why yet).
I use the small, aluminum chocks with litening holes you can get from
Srpuce and other supply houses.
As the tire slowly deflated, the wheel pants settled down onto the
chock.
The top of the chock did a good job crushing the bottom of the front
part of the nose fairing as the chock is wider than the tire.
Now I have to do fiberglass repair and cut the chocks down so that
they are no wider than the tire itself.
You might check your chocks out to avoid similar headache in the
future.....and remember this when you are parked on a transient ramp
somewhere (I take my chocks with me).
grumpy
N184JM
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
I am putting windscreen on first. I don't see any difference if you already
riveted on the forward fuse top. Two more cents - I used rattle can, spray
on, truck bed liner from the local auto parts store to paint the forward
fuse top. Textured, flat black and very tough. Scuff and prime first.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>
> My two pennies: for me, the last two items that get riveted on are the
> forward upper fuselage and the cabin top. Almost all the wiring will be
> done prior to attaching the forward upper fuselage. Before you are ready
> to attach the windshield, fit the windshield and then use a sharpie to
> mark the outside edge on the fuselage top. Paint the forward fuselage top
> with a flat black paint .... look for 'textured' black in rattle can.
> Linn
>
> Pascal wrote:
>>
>> if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the components. no
>> problem if you mean setting up the wiring and layout I would get all that
>> backend stuff done first, get all the wires positioned than close out the
>> upper fusellage and install the windscreen. This will help with where to
>> position your fans in relation to the avionics but more importantly it
>> will allow you to get easy access to move/route wires around if they
>> don't fit in a certain place.
>> Pascal
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
>> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>>
>>>
>>> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I
>>> can't think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will
>>> get warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Jay
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass |
Oh please Grumpy, can we get a picture?
"Looking like a fool with your pants on the ground"
Too FF
ricksked@cox.net wrote:
>
> Great tip Grumpy....not normally a concern for folks used to retracts
> Once you get pants you need to worry bout "PANTS ON THE GROUND" lol.....
> ------Original Message------
> From: Miller John
> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> ReplyTo: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Jan 22, 2010 7:09 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass
>
>
> Just a note to the list, for whatever it's worth.
>
> Found my nose wheel flat today at the hangar (not sure why yet).
>
> I use the small, aluminum chocks with litening holes you can get from
> Srpuce and other supply houses.
>
> As the tire slowly deflated, the wheel pants settled down onto the
> chock.
>
> The top of the chock did a good job crushing the bottom of the front
> part of the nose fairing as the chock is wider than the tire.
>
> Now I have to do fiberglass repair and cut the chocks down so that
> they are no wider than the tire itself.
>
> You might check your chocks out to avoid similar headache in the
> future.....and remember this when you are parked on a transient ramp
> somewhere (I take my chocks with me).
>
> grumpy
>
>
Message 17
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Now that I installed the flush door handles in rear part of the door and the unlock
button is in the front I'd need a third hand to release the door latch in
the middle of the door.
I guess I really have to rethink if my setup is still feasible with the new SB.
Not happy with the entire door locking mechanism
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283045#283045
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