RV10-List Digest Archive

Fri 01/22/10


Total Messages Posted: 17



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 02:07 AM - Garmin G3X EIS & Auto Pilot (Robin Marks)
     2. 05:03 AM - Re: Wing Wiring and Conduit (johngoodman)
     3. 07:48 AM - Re: Garmin G3X EIS & Auto Pilot (Seano)
     4. 09:55 AM - Windscreen install before panel? (jayb)
     5. 10:34 AM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Jim Berry)
     6. 10:55 AM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Rob Kochman)
     7. 11:54 AM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Pascal)
     8. 12:32 PM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (jayb)
     9. 02:07 PM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
    10. 03:05 PM - Re: Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Pascal)
    11. 05:00 PM - New product introduction: TCW Technologies (Bob-tcw)
    12. 05:03 PM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Linn Walters)
    13. 07:15 PM - Wheels, chocks and fiberglass (Miller John)
    14. 07:39 PM - Re: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass (ricksked@cox.net)
    15. 08:28 PM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Dave Leikam)
    16. 09:19 PM - Re: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
    17. 11:37 PM - Re: Door SB (Michael Wellenzohn)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 02:07:38 AM PST US
    Subject: Garmin G3X EIS & Auto Pilot
    From: "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
    As a heads up on the 20th Garmin announced the EIS component of the G3X including sensors would be available in February. They further announced an integrated Autopilot interface when mated to the TruTrak GX (not on TruTrak's website that I can find). As Garmin says: TruTrak GX Pilot autopilot has been designed to integrate seamlessly with the G3X, will enjoy advanced autopilot features that can be operated right from the PFD. Using controls and status indications derived from Garmin's certified GFC 700, the G3X autopilot interface implements sophisticated flight control modes including altitude preselect and capture, heading hold, GPS navigation with turn anticipation, and coupled VNAV descents. When used in conjunction with a GNS 430W or 530W, the G3X can also fly coupled holding patterns, procedure turns, and WAAS approaches. Cool! More basic info: The basic G3X system is available at a starting street price of $9,995 and includes a GDU 370 glass display, GSU 73 ADAHRS and engine interface unit, GMU 44 magnetometer and GTP 59 air temperature probe. The G3X engine sensor kits for Lycoming, Continental, Rotax and Jabiru engines are sold separately. A software update that adds EIS and autopilot features is expected to be available for free from www.garmin.com in February 2010. Someone on the list was concerned that Garmin may not offer their ADS-b package for the G3X. Garmin stated in their press release Wednesday: "Regardless of the type of aircraft a customer operates, they should never have to sacrifice features or services that enhance situational awareness, improve safety of flight" Ok, marketing 101 but as I always thought why would they turn down $9,000 by not making the new ADS-b available on the G3X? Robin BTW, I guess I feel compelled to say I have no ties to Garmin other than my G900x, 396, Nuvi 200 & 205, Golf GPS and a Garmin T-Shirt I occasionally use when changing my Aeroshell.


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:03:16 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wing Wiring and Conduit
    From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
    Kent, I used Vans conduit through 3/4" holes like the others have mentioned. For the AoA, I enlarged the tooling hole near the pitot line hole for the second plastic tube. John -------- #40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon. N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282861#282861


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:48:15 AM PST US
    From: Seano <sean@braunandco.com>
    Subject: Re: Garmin G3X EIS & Auto Pilot
    Thanks Robin, I've been too busy on the doors to keep up with the latest. I feel pretty good about my recent purchase. Sent from my iPhone On Jan 22, 2010, at 2:14, "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com> wrote: > As a heads up on the 20th Garmin announced the EIS component of the > G3X including sensors would be available in February. They further > announced an integrated Autopilot interface when mated to the > TruTrak GX (not on TruTrak=99s website that I can find). As Garmin say > s: > > > TruTrak GX Pilot autopilot has been designed to integrate seamlessly > with the G3X, will enjoy advanced autopilot features that can be > operated right from the PFD. Using controls and status indications > derived from Garmin=99s certified GFC 700, the G3X autopilot interface > implements sophisticated flight control modes including altitude pr > eselect and capture, heading hold, GPS navigation with turn anticipa > tion, and coupled VNAV descents. When used in conjunction with a GNS > 430W or 530W, the G3X can also fly coupled holding patterns, proced > ure turns, and WAAS approaches. > > > Cool! > > > More basic info: > > The basic G3X system is available at a starting street price of > $9,995 and includes a GDU 370 glass display, GSU 73 ADAHRS and > engine interface unit, GMU 44 magnetometer and GTP 59 air > temperature probe. The G3X engine sensor kits for Lycoming, > Continental, Rotax and Jabiru engines are sold separately. A > software update that adds EIS and autopilot features is expected to > be available for free from www.garmin.com in February 2010. > > > Someone on the list was concerned that Garmin may not offer their > ADS-b package for the G3X. Garmin stated in their press release > Wednesday: > > > =9CRegardless of the type of aircraft a customer operates, they should > never have to sacrifice features or services that enhance situation > al awareness, improve safety of flight=9D > > > Ok, marketing 101 but as I always thought why would they turn down > $9,000 by not making the new ADS-b available on the G3X? > > > Robin > > > BTW, I guess I feel compelled to say I have no ties to Garmin other > than my G900x, 396, Nuvi 200 & 205, Golf GPS and a Garmin T-Shirt I > occasionally use when changing my Aeroshell. > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 09:55:21 AM PST US
    Subject: Windscreen install before panel?
    From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
    Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I can't think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will get warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around. Cheers, Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907


    Message 5


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    Time: 10:34:52 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Windscreen install before panel?
    From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net>
    Jay, I installed my windscreen before the panel, and would do it that way again. I would suggest installing any defrost fans you may want before doing the windscreen. I also painted the lower 2-3" of the inside of the windscreen to hide the fiberglass fairing you will create on the outside. That area is very difficult to work in once the windscreen is in place. Jim Berry 40482 N15JB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282919#282919


    Message 6


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    Time: 10:55:52 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Windscreen install before panel?
    From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com>
    I did all my panel, subpanel, and wiring work with the top forward fuselage on a work bench. Made it much easier than crawling around the fuselage. http://kochman.net/N819K/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/img_0624.jpg That's what I'd recommend, if you haven't riveted that part on yet. If you have, it probably doesn't matter whether the windscreen is done before or after. -Rob On Fri, Jan 22, 2010 at 9:53 AM, jayb <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com> wrote: > > Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I can't > think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will get warmer > due to reduced circulation while crawling around. > > Cheers, > Jay > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907 > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K


    Message 7


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    Time: 11:54:28 AM PST US
    From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Windscreen install before panel?
    if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the components. no problem if you mean setting up the wiring and layout I would get all that backend stuff done first, get all the wires positioned than close out the upper fusellage and install the windscreen. This will help with where to position your fans in relation to the avionics but more importantly it will allow you to get easy access to move/route wires around if they don't fit in a certain place. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel? > > Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I can't > think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will get > warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around. > > Cheers, > Jay > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907 > > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 12:32:04 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Windscreen install before panel?
    From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
    To clarify... The forward fuse is riveted on and the engine is hung. The fans are in place. Jay Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282950#282950


    Message 9


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    Time: 02:07:03 PM PST US
    From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Windscreen install before panel?
    I did most of my panel work with the forward fuselage section upside down on the bench. I would wait as long as possible before riveting that whole section in place. The engine can go on, landing gear, the top fitted - you just can't final attach the top. Then I riveted it in place and continued to finish the panel. I attached the top, fitted the doors, glued the windows... everything short of the windsheild. I'm still tinkering around inside and trying to hold off on the windsheild until the last possible moment. I find everything easier to do with the windsheild off. It's been cut and fitted but it is in storage until I have to put it on. Bill jayb wrote: > > Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I can't think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will get warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around. > > Cheers, > Jay > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 03:05:49 PM PST US
    From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Windscreen install before panel?
    makes no difference than, however do not install the avionics until after the windscreen.. between fitting the plexi and resin you don't want to worry about it going near the avionics. This is what I am doing not what I did.I don't have the upper fusellage riveted yet so doing all my wiring was easy enough. Have fun.. Pascal -------------------------------------------------- From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 12:30 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Windscreen install before panel? > > To clarify... The forward fuse is riveted on and the engine is hung. The > fans are in place. > > Jay > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282950#282950 > > >


    Message 11


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    Time: 05:00:09 PM PST US
    From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman@tcwtech.com>
    Subject: New product introduction: TCW Technologies
    Fellow RV builders, TCW Technologies, is pleased to introduce our newest product, Integrated Back-up Battery System (IBBS). IBBS is a complete back-up battery solution for powering critical electronics such as EFIS, GPS, Autopilots and Engine monitors. The IBBS product combines a rechargeable ni-mh battery, a smart charger circuit and the transfer switch in a single enclosure that is easy to install and only 1/2 the weight of a comparable lead acid battery. The IBBS provides about 1 hour of back-up endurance for typical EFIS and GPS systems; additionally, it includes surge suppression and allows systems to operational before and during engine cranking. The IBBS system is very easy to install and eliminates other field installed components such as transfer contactors and diodes. The IBBS product has been tested by Garmin for use with their G3x series of products. For all the details please visit our web site: www.tcwtech.com Thanks, Bob Newman TCW Technologies, LLC. rv-10 40176


    Message 12


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    Time: 05:03:37 PM PST US
    From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Windscreen install before panel?
    My two pennies: for me, the last two items that get riveted on are the forward upper fuselage and the cabin top. Almost all the wiring will be done prior to attaching the forward upper fuselage. Before you are ready to attach the windshield, fit the windshield and then use a sharpie to mark the outside edge on the fuselage top. Paint the forward fuselage top with a flat black paint .... look for 'textured' black in rattle can. Linn Pascal wrote: > > if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the components. no > problem if you mean setting up the wiring and layout I would get all > that backend stuff done first, get all the wires positioned than close > out the upper fusellage and install the windscreen. This will help with > where to position your fans in relation to the avionics but more > importantly it will allow you to get easy access to move/route wires > around if they don't fit in a certain place. > Pascal > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com> > Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> > Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel? > >> >> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I >> can't think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will >> get warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around. >> >> Cheers, >> Jay >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 07:15:07 PM PST US
    From: Miller John <gengrumpy@aol.com>
    Subject: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass
    Just a note to the list, for whatever it's worth. Found my nose wheel flat today at the hangar (not sure why yet). I use the small, aluminum chocks with litening holes you can get from Srpuce and other supply houses. As the tire slowly deflated, the wheel pants settled down onto the chock. The top of the chock did a good job crushing the bottom of the front part of the nose fairing as the chock is wider than the tire. Now I have to do fiberglass repair and cut the chocks down so that they are no wider than the tire itself. You might check your chocks out to avoid similar headache in the future.....and remember this when you are parked on a transient ramp somewhere (I take my chocks with me). grumpy N184JM


    Message 14


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    Time: 07:39:03 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass
    From: ricksked@cox.net
    Great tip Grumpy....not normally a concern for folks used to retracts Once you get pants you need to worry bout "PANTS ON THE GROUND" lol..... ------Original Message------ From: Miller John Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com ReplyTo: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Jan 22, 2010 7:09 PM Subject: RV10-List: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass Just a note to the list, for whatever it's worth. Found my nose wheel flat today at the hangar (not sure why yet). I use the small, aluminum chocks with litening holes you can get from Srpuce and other supply houses. As the tire slowly deflated, the wheel pants settled down onto the chock. The top of the chock did a good job crushing the bottom of the front part of the nose fairing as the chock is wider than the tire. Now I have to do fiberglass repair and cut the chocks down so that they are no wider than the tire itself. You might check your chocks out to avoid similar headache in the future.....and remember this when you are parked on a transient ramp somewhere (I take my chocks with me). grumpy N184JM Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T


    Message 15


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    Time: 08:28:53 PM PST US
    From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Windscreen install before panel?
    I am putting windscreen on first. I don't see any difference if you already riveted on the forward fuse top. Two more cents - I used rattle can, spray on, truck bed liner from the local auto parts store to paint the forward fuse top. Textured, flat black and very tough. Scuff and prime first. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 5:15 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel? > > My two pennies: for me, the last two items that get riveted on are the > forward upper fuselage and the cabin top. Almost all the wiring will be > done prior to attaching the forward upper fuselage. Before you are ready > to attach the windshield, fit the windshield and then use a sharpie to > mark the outside edge on the fuselage top. Paint the forward fuselage top > with a flat black paint .... look for 'textured' black in rattle can. > Linn > > Pascal wrote: >> >> if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the components. no >> problem if you mean setting up the wiring and layout I would get all that >> backend stuff done first, get all the wires positioned than close out the >> upper fusellage and install the windscreen. This will help with where to >> position your fans in relation to the avionics but more importantly it >> will allow you to get easy access to move/route wires around if they >> don't fit in a certain place. >> Pascal >> >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com> >> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM >> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com> >> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel? >> >>> >>> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I >>> can't think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will >>> get warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around. >>> >>> Cheers, >>> Jay >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > >


    Message 16


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    Time: 09:19:19 PM PST US
    From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass
    Oh please Grumpy, can we get a picture? "Looking like a fool with your pants on the ground" Too FF ricksked@cox.net wrote: > > Great tip Grumpy....not normally a concern for folks used to retracts > Once you get pants you need to worry bout "PANTS ON THE GROUND" lol..... > ------Original Message------ > From: Miller John > Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > ReplyTo: rv10-list@matronics.com > Sent: Jan 22, 2010 7:09 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass > > > Just a note to the list, for whatever it's worth. > > Found my nose wheel flat today at the hangar (not sure why yet). > > I use the small, aluminum chocks with litening holes you can get from > Srpuce and other supply houses. > > As the tire slowly deflated, the wheel pants settled down onto the > chock. > > The top of the chock did a good job crushing the bottom of the front > part of the nose fairing as the chock is wider than the tire. > > Now I have to do fiberglass repair and cut the chocks down so that > they are no wider than the tire itself. > > You might check your chocks out to avoid similar headache in the > future.....and remember this when you are parked on a transient ramp > somewhere (I take my chocks with me). > > grumpy > >


    Message 17


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    Time: 11:37:01 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Door SB
    From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
    Now that I installed the flush door handles in rear part of the door and the unlock button is in the front I'd need a third hand to release the door latch in the middle of the door. I guess I really have to rethink if my setup is still feasible with the new SB. Not happy with the entire door locking mechanism Michael -------- RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283045#283045




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