Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:44 AM - Re: Re: Door SB (David Maib)
2. 08:54 AM - Another flying 10 (John Cram)
3. 09:23 AM - Re: Another flying 10 (Don McDonald)
4. 09:29 AM - Fake powder coat - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Jae Chang)
5. 09:32 AM - Re: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass (Perry, Phil)
6. 09:33 AM - Re: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass (Albert Gardner)
7. 09:37 AM - Re: Another flying 10 (Albert Gardner)
8. 09:50 AM - Re: Door SB (Jim Berry)
9. 10:01 AM - Re: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass (Linn Walters)
10. 02:31 PM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Larry Rosen)
11. 03:02 PM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Pascal)
12. 03:46 PM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Seano)
13. 04:08 PM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Jim Berry)
14. 04:24 PM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Strasnuts)
15. 04:25 PM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Linn Walters)
16. 07:05 PM - top engine case bolts (John Gonzalez)
17. 07:55 PM - Re: Another flying 10 (Lenny Iszak)
18. 08:01 PM - Re: top engine case bolts (Kelly McMullen)
19. 08:18 PM - Re: top engine case bolts (John Gonzalez)
20. 08:26 PM - Re: top engine case bolts (n801bh@netzero.com)
21. 08:28 PM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Jim Berry)
22. 08:49 PM - Re: top engine case bolts (Kelly McMullen)
23. 08:57 PM - Re: Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Linn Walters)
24. 08:58 PM - Re: top engine case bolts (John Gonzalez)
25. 09:12 PM - Re: top engine case bolts (n801bh@netzero.com)
26. 09:24 PM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Pascal)
27. 09:24 PM - wiring (Linn Walters)
28. 09:40 PM - Re: top engine case bolts (John Gonzalez)
29. 09:43 PM - Re: top engine case bolts (John Gonzalez)
30. 10:13 PM - Re: top engine case bolts (Tim Olson)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Michael,
I have been flying with the same door handle setup you have. I don't
have the SB kit yet, but I imagine the sequence to open the door will
be to push the forward unlock button and rotate the flush handle to
open. (two handed operation) At that point, the SB latch will still
be holding the door in the closed position, but the pins will be
retracted. Then you will release the SB latch and pull the door open.
Shouldn't be a three handed job. I am curious if it looks like the SB
latch is going to interfere with any of the internal flush handle
mechanism?
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Jan 23, 2010, at 2:36 AM, Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
<rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Now that I installed the flush door handles in rear part of the door
and the unlock button is in the front I'd need a third hand to
release the door latch in the middle of the door.
I guess I really have to rethink if my setup is still feasible with
the new SB.
Not happy with the entire door locking mechanism
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283045#283045
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Another flying 10 |
At approximately 1:30pm Thursday N569JC lifted off at KLVJ=2C Pearland=2CTX
and flew straight and fast. The Nafsinger/Cram built 10 was completed in a
little over 3 yrs with most all of the work done by my build partner and f
riend Nick Nafsinger. She was a QB but with many mods all designed by Nick.
IO-540 by Lyc Thunderbolt=2C Dual AFS 4500's=2C sl-30=2C 327=2C 430W=2C an
d Dynon D-6 backup. overhead panel w/dropdown screen in back and all aircra
ft lighting switches. The electric cowl flaps work flawlessly. Doors have 3
point locking system operated by the one handle. I could go on and on but
I will spare everyone. Great airplane=2C I will miss the building process b
ut not the $$$ part.
John Cram
was: 40569
now: N569JC- flying 1.9 hrs
http://picasaweb.google.com/N569JC/20100121N569JC#
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Another flying 10 |
Another 10 added to our family.- Congrats and welcome aboard!- You are
so right about missing the building process.... but I keep tinkering anyway
... seems there's always one more little mod to do.
Well off to the airport to find an excuse to go somewhere.
We're considering a move to Texas... Granbury... not too far away.
Don McDonald
--- On Sat, 1/23/10, John Cram <johncram@msn.com> wrote:
From: John Cram <johncram@msn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Another flying 10
At approximately 1:30pm Thursday N569JC lifted off at KLVJ, Pearland,TX and
flew straight and fast. The Nafsinger/Cram built 10 was completed in a lit
tle over 3 yrs with most all of the work done by my build partner and frien
d Nick Nafsinger. She was a QB but with many mods all designed by Nick. IO-
540 by Lyc Thunderbolt, Dual AFS 4500's, sl-30, 327, 430W, and Dynon D-6 ba
ckup. overhead panel w/dropdown screen in back and all aircraft lighting sw
itches. The electric cowl flaps work flawlessly. Doors have 3 point locking
system operated by the one handle. I could go on and on but I will spare e
veryone. Great airplane, I will miss the building process but not the $$$ p
art.
-
John Cram
was: 40569
now: N569JC- flying 1.9 hrs
-
http://picasaweb.google.com/N569JC/20100121N569JC#
=0A=0A=0A
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
I was just told about using truck bedliner paint trick, too. I was told
it gives a texture similar to powder coating, if you paint over it with
color. Not sure if that is true or not, as i have yet to test it myself.
I am regretting not painting the baffling pieces white earlier.
Considering the above for the baffling pieces.
Jae
40533
Hung the exhaust and now it's beautiful! :)
do not archive
Dave Leikam wrote:
>
> I am putting windscreen on first. I don't see any difference if you
> already riveted on the forward fuse top. Two more cents - I used
> rattle can, spray on, truck bed liner from the local auto parts store
> to paint the forward fuse top. Textured, flat black and very tough.
> Scuff and prime first.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA
> Muskego, WI
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass |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Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Wheels, chocks and fiberglass |
I had a main flat once and found that I couldn't jack the plane until I took
the pant off but couldn't get the pant off because the lowest screws were
Phillips and resting almost on the ground. Had to locate a wing jack to
change the tire. After that I used short hex head screws in those locations
so I could remove them.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
> ------Original Message------
> Subject: RV10-List: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass
> Just a note to the list, for whatever it's worth.
> Found my nose wheel flat today at the hangar (not sure why yet).
> I use the small, aluminum chocks with litening holes you can get from
> Srpuce and other supply houses.
> As the tire slowly deflated, the wheel pants settled down onto the
> chock.
> The top of the chock did a good job crushing the bottom of the front
> part of the nose fairing as the chock is wider than the tire.
> Now I have to do fiberglass repair and cut the chocks down so that
> they are no wider than the tire itself.
> You might check your chocks out to avoid similar headache in the
> future.....and remember this when you are parked on a transient ramp
> somewhere (I take my chocks with me).
> grumpy
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Another flying 10 |
Congratulations on your move from buying parts to buying 100LL.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cram
Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2010 9:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Another flying 10
At approximately 1:30pm Thursday N569JC lifted off at KLVJ, Pearland,TX and
flew straight and fast. The Nafsinger/Cram built 10 was completed in a
little over 3 yrs with most all of the work done by my build partner and
friend Nick Nafsinger. She was a QB but with many mods all designed by Nick.
IO-540 by Lyc Thunderbolt, Dual AFS 4500's, sl-30, 327, 430W, and Dynon D-6
backup. overhead panel w/dropdown screen in back and all aircraft lighting
switches. The electric cowl flaps work flawlessly. Doors have 3 point
locking system operated by the one handle. I could go on and on but I will
spare everyone. Great airplane, I will miss the building process but not the
$$$ part.
John Cram
was: 40569
now: N569JC- flying 1.9 hrs
http://picasaweb.google.com/N569JC/20100121N569JC#
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
David,
You are correct. Opening the door is a 2 step sequence, but it does not require
3 hands. Rotating the handle allows the bottom of the door to move outward 1/2
to 3/4 of an inch. Lift the new latch about 3/4 inch to open the door fully.
The new latch also makes a convenient pull point to bring the door completely
in for closing. I had been thinking of adding a strap of some type, as others
have done, but probably will not now.
I don't know how this will work out with other door handle systems, but the upper
surface of the latch is 1/2 inch below the aft door pin rod and 11 1/2 inches
aft of the stock door handle shaft.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283104#283104
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass |
Perry, Phil wrote:
> Putting pants on is over rated!
Pervert!!! This is as family list!!!
<GR> .... all in good fun
Linn
>
> Great tip though. :)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Fri Jan 22 21:15:42 2010
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass
>
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> Oh please Grumpy, can we get a picture?
>
> "Looking like a fool with your pants on the ground"
>
> Too FF
>
> ricksked@cox.net wrote:
> >
> > Great tip Grumpy....not normally a concern for folks used to retracts
> > Once you get pants you need to worry bout "PANTS ON THE GROUND" lol.....
> > ------Original Message------
> > From: Miller John
> > Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > ReplyTo: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Sent: Jan 22, 2010 7:09 PM
> > Subject: RV10-List: Wheels, chocks and fiberglass
> >
> >
> > Just a note to the list, for whatever it's worth.
> >
> > Found my nose wheel flat today at the hangar (not sure why yet).
> >
> > I use the small, aluminum chocks with litening holes you can get from
> > Srpuce and other supply houses.
> >
> > As the tire slowly deflated, the wheel pants settled down onto the
> > chock.
> >
> > The top of the chock did a good job crushing the bottom of the front
> > part of the nose fairing as the chock is wider than the tire.
> >
> > Now I have to do fiberglass repair and cut the chocks down so that
> > they are no wider than the tire itself.
> >
> > You might check your chocks out to avoid similar headache in the
> > future.....and remember this when you are parked on a transient ramp
> > somewhere (I take my chocks with me).
> >
> > grumpy
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ~,gM4Gqz.'8E]t.+-fZ+`axr^jzZ(j|n)b'!j'+ry'C
> {
> ,x(ZP!jrrj|-&j',r5hum
> 'ojj+E]t.+-08IaT1
> jgrz{Zi^&lZ+ky+k&j',r+k&j',rhB{ky.+jY^.+-i0fr((nbxm-&j',rr&*''k{w/tml
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
Would there be any issues with completing the tasks listed below prior
to riveting the forward upper fuselage in place
Fit the upper cabin top brace
Install the engine
Fit the upper and lower cowls
Install the cowl baffles
Fit the windscreen
Larry Rosen
Starting building after a year away
Linn Walters wrote:
>
> My two pennies: for me, the last two items that get riveted on are
> the forward upper fuselage and the cabin top. Almost all the wiring
> will be done prior to attaching the forward upper fuselage. Before
> you are ready to attach the windshield, fit the windshield and then
> use a sharpie to mark the outside edge on the fuselage top. Paint the
> forward fuselage top with a flat black paint .... look for 'textured'
> black in rattle can.
> Linn
>
> Pascal wrote:
>>
>> if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the components.
>> no problem if you mean setting up the wiring and layout I would get
>> all that backend stuff done first, get all the wires positioned than
>> close out the upper fusellage and install the windscreen. This will
>> help with where to position your fans in relation to the avionics but
>> more importantly it will allow you to get easy access to move/route
>> wires around if they don't fit in a certain place.
>> Pascal
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
>> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>>
>>>
>>> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I
>>> can't think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin
>>> will get warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Jay
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
no issues. I did everything except the windscreen. I'll rivet the upper
fusellage than do the windscreen as it makes little sense for me to move the
windscreen, fit it and wait to final install until I finally get around to
riveting the front- which will be months.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Larry Rosen" <N205EN@gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2010 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>
> Would there be any issues with completing the tasks listed below prior to
> riveting the forward upper fuselage in place
> Fit the upper cabin top brace
> Install the engine
> Fit the upper and lower cowls
> Install the cowl baffles
> Fit the windscreen
>
> Larry Rosen
> Starting building after a year away
>
>
> Linn Walters wrote:
>>
>> My two pennies: for me, the last two items that get riveted on are the
>> forward upper fuselage and the cabin top. Almost all the wiring will be
>> done prior to attaching the forward upper fuselage. Before you are ready
>> to attach the windshield, fit the windshield and then use a sharpie to
>> mark the outside edge on the fuselage top. Paint the forward fuselage
>> top with a flat black paint .... look for 'textured' black in rattle can.
>> Linn
>>
>> Pascal wrote:
>>>
>>> if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the components. no
>>> problem if you mean setting up the wiring and layout I would get all
>>> that backend stuff done first, get all the wires positioned than close
>>> out the upper fusellage and install the windscreen. This will help with
>>> where to position your fans in relation to the avionics but more
>>> importantly it will allow you to get easy access to move/route wires
>>> around if they don't fit in a certain place.
>>> Pascal
>>>
>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
>>> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM
>>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I
>>>> can't think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will
>>>> get warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>> Jay
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
The only thing you can do is the mounting the engine. You can fit the
brace and drill it but you will have to take it back off. The cowls
can't be done until the fwd top fuse is in place because of the
hinges. Also, you can't do the baffling because the cowls can't be
installed until the hinges. I hope I'm right but that is the way I
had to do it.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 23, 2010, at 15:30, Larry Rosen t<N205EN@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Would there be any issues with completing the tasks listed below
> prior to riveting the forward upper fuselage in place
> Fit the upper cabin top brace
> Install the engine
> Fit the upper and lower cowls
> Install the cowl baffles
> Fit the windscreen
>
> Larry Rosen
> Starting building after a year away
>
>
> Linn Walters wrote:
>> >
>>
>> My two pennies: for me, the last two items that get riveted on are
>> the forward upper fuselage and the cabin top. Almost all the
>> wiring will be done prior to attaching the forward upper fuselage.
>> Before you are ready to attach the windshield, fit the windshield
>> and then use a sharpie to mark the outside edge on the fuselage
>> top. Paint the forward fuselage top with a flat black paint ....
>> look for 'textured' black in rattle can.
>> Linn
>>
>> Pascal wrote:
>>>
>>> if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the
>>> components. no problem if you mean setting up the wiring and
>>> layout I would get all that backend stuff done first, get all the
>>> wires positioned than close out the upper fusellage and install
>>> the windscreen. This will help with where to position your fans in
>>> relation to the avionics but more importantly it will allow you to
>>> get easy access to move/route wires around if they don't fit in a
>>> certain place.
>>> Pascal
>>>
>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
>>> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM
>>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before
>>>> panel? I can't think of any particular reason why not other than
>>>> the cabin will get warmer due to reduced circulation while
>>>> crawling around.
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>> Jay
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
Larry,
All of the items on your list can be accomplished before riveting the forward top
fuselage in place. Just cleco the top skin and proceed with the other steps.
Obviously you will have to remove the cabin top brace after drilling for the
hardware at the upper end, then reinstall it after the forward skin is riveted
in place. There is no problem clecoing the cowl hinges and fitting the cowling,
baffles, etc. without the top skin being riveted.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283146#283146
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
Man do I feel like a ri-tard. I guess I can finish my baffling. Thanks Jim.
I never thought of using clecos. I'm serious.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283149#283149
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
I guess I have 4 pennies in here now!!
I'll bolt on the engine mount so I can mount stuff on the firewall prior
to riveting on the forward upper fuselage. I think I'll put it on the
gear just before mounting the engine. My proposed schedule would be:
1) fit the cabin top brace
2) complete the wiring ..... My panel will be connectorized for easy
removal and the wirng to the fuselage will either be coiled up with the
forward upper fuselage, or attached after it's riveted on.
3) prepare the inside of the cabin top ..... in process now ....
getting ready to lay up the overhead console. Might include painting on
inside.
4) install all the interior trim panels and seats.
5) river forward upper fuselage.
6) install cabin top.
7) get on the gear.
8) hang engine.
9) baffling .... make plenum.
10) attach cowl
11) install windows and windscreen.
12) final assembly of wings and tail feathers.
13) final paint ..... wings & tail feathers will be painted after
they're assembled.
If there's a quagmire in the making .... someone let me know!!!
Linn
Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> Would there be any issues with completing the tasks listed below prior
> to riveting the forward upper fuselage in place
> Fit the upper cabin top brace
> Install the engine
> Fit the upper and lower cowls
> Install the cowl baffles
> Fit the windscreen
>
> Larry Rosen
> Starting building after a year away
>
>
> Linn Walters wrote:
>>
>> My two pennies: for me, the last two items that get riveted on are
>> the forward upper fuselage and the cabin top. Almost all the wiring
>> will be done prior to attaching the forward upper fuselage. Before
>> you are ready to attach the windshield, fit the windshield and then
>> use a sharpie to mark the outside edge on the fuselage top. Paint the
>> forward fuselage top with a flat black paint .... look for 'textured'
>> black in rattle can.
>> Linn
>>
>> Pascal wrote:
>>>
>>> if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the components.
>>> no problem if you mean setting up the wiring and layout I would get
>>> all that backend stuff done first, get all the wires positioned than
>>> close out the upper fusellage and install the windscreen. This will
>>> help with where to position your fans in relation to the avionics but
>>> more importantly it will allow you to get easy access to move/route
>>> wires around if they don't fit in a certain place.
>>> Pascal
>>>
>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
>>> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM
>>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I
>>>> can't think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin
>>>> will get warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>> Jay
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | top engine case bolts |
I was attaching the front and aft baffle brackets to the top of the engine
case. These bolts are 7/16 diameter coarse thread.
The question I have is one=2C why are they undersize for the hole which the
y fill=2C second=2C why are they coarse thread=2C lastly=2C what is the tor
que value. I have the lycoming torque value pages that were put on this for
um=2C but I couldn't find the specification for these bolts.
Regular value for a 7/16 is 50 LB/Ft. I snapped the first bolt I tried to t
ighten. I am believing that these bolts are very special and must be design
ed for expansion.
Anyone have the answers and another source or will I need to call Lycoming
to order another bolt and get the torque value from them.
Thanks=2C
JOhn
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Another flying 10 |
Congrats John!
Finally an airplane with a James cowl like mine! Did you have any temp issues?
Did you actually need the cowl flaps? I'm just hoping that normal 260hp engine
will not produce heat problems when using the James cowl unlike those fire breathing
dragons others have used.
So pleeeaaase give me some numbers.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283168#283168
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: top engine case bolts |
Looks like the parts manual calls for LW25 in varying lengths for all
the parting line bolts, which is 1/4" bolt X20 pitch thread. The
manual calls for 75 INCH pounds. Not sure where you are finding 7/16
diameter bolts other than for the alternator mounting.
You can get engine bolts from most parts suppliers.
On Sat, Jan 23, 2010 at 8:02 PM, John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> wrote:
> I was attaching the front and aft baffle brackets to the top of the engine
> case. These bolts are 7/16 diameter coarse thread.
>
> The question I have is one, why are they undersize for the hole which they
> fill, second, why are they coarse thread, lastly, what is the torque value.
> I have thelycoming torque value pages that were puton this forum, but I
> couldn't findthe specification for these bolts.
>
> Regular value for a 7/16 is 50 LB/Ft. I snapped the first bolt I tried to
> tighten. I am believing that these bolts are very special and mustbe
> designed for expansion.
>
> Anyone have the answers and another source or will Ineedtocall Lycoming
> to order another boltand get the torque value from them.
>
> Thanks,
>
> JOhn
>
>
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | top engine case bolts |
Thanks that's about everything I need
Appreciate it.
DO Not archive
> Date: Sat=2C 23 Jan 2010 20:59:13 -0700
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
> From: apilot2@gmail.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Looks like the parts manual calls for LW25 in varying lengths for all
> the parting line bolts=2C which is 1/4" bolt X20 pitch thread. The
> manual calls for 75 INCH pounds. Not sure where you are finding 7/16
> diameter bolts other than for the alternator mounting.
> You can get engine bolts from most parts suppliers.
>
> On Sat=2C Jan 23=2C 2010 at 8:02 PM=2C John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.
com> wrote:
> > I was attaching the front and aft baffle brackets to the top of the eng
ine
> > case. These bolts are 7/16 diameter coarse thread.
> >
> > The question I have is one=2C why are they undersize for the hole which
they
> > fill=2C second=2C why are they coarse thread=2C lastly=2C what is the t
orque value.
> > I have the lycoming torque value pages that were put on this forum=2C b
ut I
> > couldn't find the specification for these bolts.
> >
> > Regular value for a 7/16 is 50 LB/Ft. I snapped the first bolt I tried
to
> > tighten. I am believing that these bolts are very special and must be
> > designed for expansion.
> >
> > Anyone have the answers and another source or will I need to call Lycom
ing
> > to order another bolt and get the torque value from them.
> >
> > Thanks=2C
> >
> > JOhn
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: top engine case bolts |
Ya know. I think he is assuming the head size of the bolt, 7/16" is the
bolt size. A 1/4" bolt has a socket/wrench size of 7/16..... No wonder i
t broke at 50 ft lbs.
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
Looks like the parts manual calls for LW25 in varying lengths for all
the parting line bolts, which is 1/4" bolt X20 pitch thread. The
manual calls for 75 INCH pounds. Not sure where you are finding 7/16
diameter bolts other than for the alternator mounting.
You can get engine bolts from most parts suppliers.
On Sat, Jan 23, 2010 at 8:02 PM, John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
wrote:
> I was attaching the front and aft baffle brackets to the top of the en
gine
> case. These bolts are 7/16 diameter coarse thread.
>
> The question I have is one, why are they undersize for the hole which
they
> fill, second, why are they coarse thread, lastly, what is the torque v
alue.
> I have the lycoming torque value pages that were put on this forum, bu
t I
> couldn't find the specification for these bolts.
>
> Regular value for a 7/16 is 50 LB/Ft. I snapped the first bolt I tried
to
> tighten. I am believing that these bolts are very special and must be
> designed for expansion.
>
> Anyone have the answers and another source or will I need to call Lyco
ming
> to order another bolt and get the torque value from them.
>
> Thanks,
>
> JOhn
>
>
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
____________________________________________________________
Home Improvement Projects
Click here to find experienced pros to help with your home improvement p
roject.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/c?cp=wxGXoqqqRn9It2bQAO2Qr
AAAJ1E315TiJGQRTntSFamdGWtMAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASh
AAAAAA
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
Larry,
I don't foresee any quagmires, but I do have a few questions and suggestions. I
am not sure if your list is just the stuff that needs to be done, or a proposed
work sequence.
1. If by interior trim panels you mean the sheet metal, there is really not much
point in putting it in yet. It looks kind of cool to see it in, but it is going
to need to come back out for final inspection. Even if you are compulsive
about planning your fuselage wiring & plumbing, I can almost guarantee there will
be something that needs to be changed.
2. There is no need to rivet the forward fuselage before you final install the
cabin top. You can slide the forward fuselage on and off with the cabin top in
place. I would put off riveting the forward fuselage as long as possible, which
means everything on your list except the windscreen and wings.
3. Make absolutely sure you have made any/all modifications to your subpanel before
you rivet the forward fuselage. Having to cut access for long avionics or
mount components on the subpanel after it is installed is an absolute pita.
4. I don't see doors. You are going to love doing those.
5. Baffling will have to come after fitting the cowl. I am not sure about the plenum
since I don't have one.
6. There are a few rivets in the upper firewall to forward fuselage ribs that are
very difficult to access with the engine in place. You will want 2 sets of
very small, but highly trained hands to help with this step.
Have fun.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283172#283172
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: top engine case bolts |
If you haven't already, I suggest downloading the parts and overhaul
manual from Tim's site.
The bolts are on page 1-13 for the case parting line.
On Sat, Jan 23, 2010 at 9:16 PM, John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> wrote:
> Thanksthat'sabout everything I need
>
> Appreciate it.
>
> DO Not archive
>
>> Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 20:59:13 -0700
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
>> From: apilot2@gmail.com
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>
>>
>> Looks like the parts manual calls for LW25 in varying lengths for all
>> the parting line bolts, which is 1/4" bolt X20 pitch thread. The
>> manual calls for 75 INCH pounds. Not sure where you are finding 7/16
>> diameter bolts other than for the alternator mounting.
>> You can get engine bolts from most parts suppliers.
>>
>> On Sat, Jan 23, 2010 at 8:02 PM, John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>> wrote:
>> > I was attaching the front and aft baffle brackets to the top of the
>> > engine
>> > case. These bolts are 7/16 diameter coarse thread.
>> >
>> > The question I have is one, why are they undersize for the hole which
>> > they
>> > fill, second, why are they coarse thread, lastly, what is the torque
>> > value.
>> > I have thelycoming torque value pages that were puton this forum, but
>> > I
>> > couldn't findthe specification for these bolts.
>> >
>> > Regular value for a 7/16 is 50 LB/Ft. I snapped the first bolt I tried
>> > to
>> > tighten. I am believing that these bolts are very special and mustbe
>> > designed for expansion.
>> >
>> > Anyone have the answers and another source or will Ineedtocall
>> > Lycoming
>> > to order another boltand get the torque value from them.
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> >
>> > JOhn
>> >
>> >
>> >
> >==================
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
Larry posed the question .... the list is mine!
Jim Berry wrote:
>
> Larry,
>
> I don't foresee any quagmires, but I do have a few questions and
> suggestions. I am not sure if your list is just the stuff that needs
> to be done, or a proposed work sequence.
Both.
>
> 1. If by interior trim panels you mean the sheet metal, there is
> really not much point in putting it in yet. It looks kind of cool to
> see it in, but it is going to need to come back out for final
> inspection. Even if you are compulsive about planning your fuselage
> wiring & plumbing, I can almost guarantee there will be something
> that needs to be changed.
I ran sufficient conduit so adding wires shouldn't be a problem. I also
have a wire run down the center console without conduit so those covers
might pose a problem.
>
> 2. There is no need to rivet the forward fuselage before you final
> install the cabin top. You can slide the forward fuselage on and off
> with the cabin top in place. I would put off riveting the forward
> fuselage as long as possible, which means everything on your list
> except the windscreen and wings.
Good point. The cabin top and the forward upper fuse are my final
'close out' items since I really don't want them in the way.
>
> 3. Make absolutely sure you have made any/all modifications to your
> subpanel before you rivet the forward fuselage. Having to cut access
> for long avionics or mount components on the subpanel after it is
> installed is an absolute pita.
I'm there now. My transponder is the only deep item. such a shame to
do so much work stiffening the hole for a couple of inches.
>
> 4. I don't see doors. You are going to love doing those.
My doors are hung .... going through the process to add the
McMaster-Carr seals. Lots of grinding/filling on the door jambs.
>
> 5. Baffling will have to come after fitting the cowl. I am not sure
> about the plenum since I don't have one.
I think you're right. Good call.
>
> 6. There are a few rivets in the upper firewall to forward fuselage
> ribs that are very difficult to access with the engine in place. You
> will want 2 sets of very small, but highly trained hands to help with
> this step.
Only the engine mount will be installed prior to attachment of the upper
fuselage. I have stuff to mount on the engine side of the firewall so
need clearance and maintenance room.
>
> Have fun.
Fun??? Well, I am enjoying the journey. This is far more complex than
building my Pitts ...... but the fun will come in the flying. My brain
keeps the tune 'I'm a traveling man, made a lot of stop, all over the
world ...... I want to see a lot more of my country before I croak!!!
Thanks for the guidance!!!
Linn
>
> Jim Berry 40482 N15JB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283172#283172
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | top engine case bolts |
I was about to make that admission=2C what was I thinking
From: n801bh@netzero.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
Ya know. I think he is assuming the head size of the bolt=2C 7/16" is the b
olt size. A 1/4" bolt has a socket/wrench size of 7/16..... No wonder it br
oke at 50 ft lbs.
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
Looks like the parts manual calls for LW25 in varying lengths for all
the parting line bolts=2C which is 1/4" bolt X20 pitch thread. The
manual calls for 75 INCH pounds. Not sure where you are finding 7/16
diameter bolts other than for the alternator mounting.
You can get engine bolts from most parts suppliers.
On Sat=2C Jan 23=2C 2010 at 8:02 PM=2C John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.co
m> wrote:
> I was attaching the front and aft baffle brackets to the top of the engin
e
> case. These bolts are 7/16 diameter coarse thread.
>
> The question I have is one=2C why are they undersize for the hole which t
hey
> fill=2C second=2C why are they coarse thread=2C lastly=2C what is the tor
que value.
> I have the lycoming torque value pages that were put on this forum=2C but
I
> couldn't find the specification for these bolts.
>
> Regular value for a 7/16 is 50 LB/Ft. I snapped the first bolt I tried to
> tighten. I am believing that these bolts are very special and must be
> designed for expansion.
>
> Anyone have the answers and another source or will I need to call Lycomin
g
> to order another bolt and get the torque value from them.
>
> Thanks=2C
>
> JOhn
>
>
____________________________________________________________
Home Improvement Projects
Click here to find experienced pros to help with your home improvement proj
ect.
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | top engine case bolts |
For penance you need to say 2 our fathers, 3 hail mary's and log 2.4 PIC
in the next two weeks. By doing that you will stay out purgatory... Or
filling out FAA form 75747, which is alot worse then hell. <GG>
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
I was about to make that admission, what was I thinking
From: n801bh@netzero.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
Ya know. I think he is assuming the head size of the bolt, 7/16" is the
bolt size. A 1/4" bolt has a socket/wrench size of 7/16..... No wonder i
t broke at 50 ft lbs.
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
Looks like the parts manual calls for LW25 in varying lengths for all
the parting line bolts, which is 1/4" bolt X20 pitch thread. The
manual calls for 75 INCH pounds. Not sure where you are finding 7/16
diameter bolts other than for the alternator mounting.
You can get engine bolts from most parts suppliers.
On Sat, Jan 23, 2010 at 8:02 PM, John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
wrote:
> I was attaching the front and aft baffle brackets to the top of the en
gine
> case. These bolts are 7/16 diameter coarse thread.
>
> The question I have is one, why are they undersize for the hole which
they
> fill, second, why are they coarse thread, lastly, what is the torque v
alue.
> I have the lycoming torque value pages that were put on this forum, bu
t I
> couldn't find the specification for these bolts.
>
> Regular value for a 7/16 is 50 LB/Ft. I snapped the first bolt I tried
to
> tighten. I am believing that these bolts are very special and must be
> designed for expansion.
>
> Anyone have the answers and another source or will I need to call Lyco
ming
> to order another bolt and get the torque value from them.
>
> Thanks,
>
> JOhn
>
>
____________________________________________________________
Home Improvement Projects
Click here to find experienced pros to help with your home improvement p
roject.
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listronics.comww.matronics.com/co
========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
============
____________________________________________________________
Nutrition
Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/c?cp=HVOuKtWjWVtFoCj3ffx5C
AAAJ1E315TiJGQRTntSFamdGWtMAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQ
wAAAAA
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
Linn;
All looks like what I did/am doing. I might suggest you do the cowl before
the baffles, I noticed that it was easier to fit/adjust the baffles to the
correct cowl mating than it would be to make the cowls line up and fit
around the baffles. I had a heck of a time with my cowls they were warped
and took loads of work just to align so I am glad I did my cowls before the
baffles.
I really would hold off on riveting the upper forward fusellage until after
step #10. The engine can be mounted without concern of the piece being
riveted on, I have had it this way for months .
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2010 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>
> I guess I have 4 pennies in here now!!
> I'll bolt on the engine mount so I can mount stuff on the firewall prior
> to riveting on the forward upper fuselage. I think I'll put it on the gear
> just before mounting the engine. My proposed schedule would be:
> 1) fit the cabin top brace
> 2) complete the wiring ..... My panel will be connectorized for easy
> removal and the wirng to the fuselage will either be coiled up with the
> forward upper fuselage, or attached after it's riveted on.
> 3) prepare the inside of the cabin top ..... in process now .... getting
> ready to lay up the overhead console. Might include painting on inside.
> 4) install all the interior trim panels and seats.
> 5) river forward upper fuselage.
> 6) install cabin top.
> 7) get on the gear.
> 8) hang engine.
> 9) baffling .... make plenum.
> 10) attach cowl
> 11) install windows and windscreen.
> 12) final assembly of wings and tail feathers.
> 13) final paint ..... wings & tail feathers will be painted after they're
> assembled.
>
> If there's a quagmire in the making .... someone let me know!!!
> Linn
>
>
> Larry Rosen wrote:
>>
>> Would there be any issues with completing the tasks listed below prior to
>> riveting the forward upper fuselage in place
>> Fit the upper cabin top brace
>> Install the engine
>> Fit the upper and lower cowls
>> Install the cowl baffles
>> Fit the windscreen
>>
>> Larry Rosen
>> Starting building after a year away
>>
>>
>> Linn Walters wrote:
>>> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>>>
>>> My two pennies: for me, the last two items that get riveted on are the
>>> forward upper fuselage and the cabin top. Almost all the wiring will be
>>> done prior to attaching the forward upper fuselage. Before you are
>>> ready to attach the windshield, fit the windshield and then use a
>>> sharpie to mark the outside edge on the fuselage top. Paint the forward
>>> fuselage top with a flat black paint .... look for 'textured' black in
>>> rattle can.
>>> Linn
>>>
>>> Pascal wrote:
>>>>
>>>> if you mean the actual front of the panel, installing the components.
>>>> no problem if you mean setting up the wiring and layout I would get all
>>>> that backend stuff done first, get all the wires positioned than close
>>>> out the upper fusellage and install the windscreen. This will help with
>>>> where to position your fans in relation to the avionics but more
>>>> importantly it will allow you to get easy access to move/route wires
>>>> around if they don't fit in a certain place.
>>>> Pascal
>>>>
>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
>>>> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 9:53 AM
>>>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Thoughts on whether or not to install the windscreen before panel? I
>>>>> can't think of any particular reason why not other than the cabin will
>>>>> get warmer due to reduced circulation while crawling around.
>>>>>
>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>> Jay
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282907#282907
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Since I'm deep into wiring, there's some things I do to make life
easier. I thought I'd share them. Wiring up my intercom I used some 4
wire shielded for each position. Stripping the insulation off the
braided ground is tough. My 'hint' is to use a razor blade just pressed
on the insulation .... don't 'saw' .... and bend the wire to break the
insulation all the way around. Keeps the braid intact.
The next 'hint' is to use an insulator from a full-size alligator clip
to capture the insulation and pull it off. You might have to flex the
insulation to break it loose from the braid.
There's also a nice EAA video on dealing with shielded wire.
Linn
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | top engine case bolts |
Actually what is better is to retrace the thought process which led me down
that path so that it doesn't happen again.
The repetitive nature of constructing the baffles lulled me into stupidity.
Without plans to callout the size of the bolt=2C as is done with the build
ing plans=2C my mind went into dumb mode.
From: n801bh@netzero.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
For penance you need to say 2 our fathers=2C 3 hail mary's and log 2.4 PIC
in the next two weeks. By doing that you will stay out purgatory... Or fill
ing out FAA form 75747=2C which is alot worse then hell. <GG>
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
I was about to make that admission=2C what was I thinking
From: n801bh@netzero.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
Ya know. I think he is assuming the head size of the bolt=2C 7/16" is the b
olt size. A 1/4" bolt has a socket/wrench size of 7/16..... No wonder it br
oke at 50 ft lbs.
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
Looks like the parts manual calls for LW25 in varying lengths for all
the parting line bolts=2C which is 1/4" bolt X20 pitch thread. The
manual calls for 75 INCH pounds. Not sure where you are finding 7/16
diameter bolts other than for the alternator mounting.
You can get engine bolts from most parts suppliers.
On Sat=2C Jan 23=2C 2010 at 8:02 PM=2C John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.co
m> wrote:
> I was attaching the front and aft baffle brackets to the top of the engin
e
> case. These bolts are 7/16 diameter coarse thread.
>
> The question I have is one=2C why are they undersize for the hole which t
hey
> fill=2C second=2C why are they coarse thread=2C lastly=2C what is the tor
que value.
> I have the lycoming torque value pages that were put on this forum=2C but
I
> couldn't find the specification for these bolts.
>
> Regular value for a 7/16 is 50 LB/Ft. I snapped the first bolt I tried to
> tighten. I am believing that these bolts are very special and must be
> designed for expansion.
>
> Anyone have the answers and another source or will I need to call Lycomin
g
> to order another bolt and get the torque value from them.
>
> Thanks=2C
>
> JOhn
>
>
____________________________________________________________
Home Improvement Projects
Click here to find experienced pros to help with your home improvement proj
ect.
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tronics.com
www.matronics.com/contribution
____________________________________________________________
Nutrition
Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | top engine case bolts |
Where is it?
That good stuff used to be in the builders only section. I can't find that
section anymore
Thanks
JOhn
> Date: Sat=2C 23 Jan 2010 21:46:52 -0700
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
> From: apilot2@gmail.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> If you haven't already=2C I suggest downloading the parts and overhaul
> manual from Tim's site.
> The bolts are on page 1-13 for the case parting line.
>
> On Sat=2C Jan 23=2C 2010 at 9:16 PM=2C John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.
com> wrote:
> > Thanks that's about everything I need
> >
> > Appreciate it.
> >
> > DO Not archive
> >
> >> Date: Sat=2C 23 Jan 2010 20:59:13 -0700
> >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
> >> From: apilot2@gmail.com
> >> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >>
> >>
> >> Looks like the parts manual calls for LW25 in varying lengths for all
> >> the parting line bolts=2C which is 1/4" bolt X20 pitch thread. The
> >> manual calls for 75 INCH pounds. Not sure where you are finding 7/16
> >> diameter bolts other than for the alternator mounting.
> >> You can get engine bolts from most parts suppliers.
> >>
> >> On Sat=2C Jan 23=2C 2010 at 8:02 PM=2C John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@m
sn.com>
> >> wrote:
> >> > I was attaching the front and aft baffle brackets to the top of the
> >> > engine
> >> > case. These bolts are 7/16 diameter coarse thread.
> >> >
> >> > The question I have is one=2C why are they undersize for the hole wh
ich
> >> > they
> >> > fill=2C second=2C why are they coarse thread=2C lastly=2C what is th
e torque
> >> > value.
> >> > I have the lycoming torque value pages that were put on this forum
=2C but
> >> > I
> >> > couldn't find the specification for these bolts.
> >> >
> >> > Regular value for a 7/16 is 50 LB/Ft. I snapped the first bolt I tri
ed
> >> > to
> >> > tighten. I am believing that these bolts are very special and must b
e
> >> > designed for expansion.
> >> >
> >> > Anyone have the answers and another source or will I need to call
> >> > Lycoming
> >> > to order another bolt and get the torque value from them.
> >> >
> >> > Thanks=2C
> >> >
> >> > JOhn
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> > >==================
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: top engine case bolts |
I replied offline.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
John Gonzalez wrote:
> Where is it?
>
> That good stuff used to be in the builders only section. I can't find
> that section anymore
>
> Thanks
>
> JOhn
>
> > Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 21:46:52 -0700
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
> > From: apilot2@gmail.com
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >
> >
> > If you haven't already, I suggest downloading the parts and overhaul
> > manual from Tim's site.
> > The bolts are on page 1-13 for the case parting line.
> >
> > On Sat, Jan 23, 2010 at 9:16 PM, John Gonzalez
> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com> wrote:
> > > Thanks that's about everything I need
> > >
> > > Appreciate it.
> > >
> > > DO Not archive
> > >
> > >> Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 20:59:13 -0700
> > >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: top engine case bolts
> > >> From: apilot2@gmail.com
> > >> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Looks like the parts manual calls for LW25 in varying lengths for all
> > >> the parting line bolts, which is 1/4" bolt X20 pitch thread. The
> > >> manual calls for 75 INCH pounds. Not sure where you are finding 7/16
> > >> diameter bolts other than for the alternator mounting.
> > >> You can get engine bolts from most parts suppliers.
> > >>
> > >> On Sat, Jan 23, 2010 at 8:02 PM, John Gonzalez
> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
> > >> wrote:
> > >> > I was attaching the front and aft baffle brackets to the top of the
> > >> > engine
> > >> > case. These bolts are 7/16 diameter coarse thread.
> > >> >
> > >> > The question I have is one, why are they undersize for the hole
> which
> > >> > they
> > >> > fill, second, why are they coarse thread, lastly, what is the torque
> > >> > value.
> > >> > I have the lycoming torque value pages that were put on this
> forum, but
> > >> > I
> > >> > couldn't find the specification for these bolts.
> > >> >
> > >> > Regular value for a 7/16 is 50 LB/Ft. I snapped the first bolt I
> tried
> > >> > to
> > >> > tighten. I am believing that these bolts are very special and
> must be
> > >> > designed for expansion.
> > >> >
> > >> > Anyone have the answers and another source or will I need to call
> > >> > Lycoming
> > >> > to order another bolt and get the torque value from them.
> > >> >
> > >> > Thanks,
> > >> >
> > >> > JOhn
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > > >==================
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >=============
> >
> >
> >
>
> *
>
>
> *
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|