Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:01 AM - Flat Front Tyre (Geoff Bryant)
2. 07:09 AM - Re: wiring (rv10flyer)
3. 08:21 AM - Windshield install (Dave Leikam)
4. 09:10 AM - Re: Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
5. 09:47 AM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Jim Berry)
6. 09:48 AM - Re: wiring (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
7. 11:36 AM - Re: wiring (Linn Walters)
8. 11:51 AM - Re: wiring (Linn Walters)
9. 11:56 AM - Re: Flat Front Tyre (Miller John)
10. 03:07 PM - Re: Windshield install (Jeff Carpenter)
11. 04:57 PM - Re: Fake powder coat - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
12. 05:22 PM - Log book recommendations (Jim Berry)
13. 05:36 PM - Re: Windshield install (Dave Leikam)
14. 05:47 PM - Re: Log book recommendations (Bob Turner)
15. 07:57 PM - Re: Another flying 10 (nukeflyboy)
16. 08:05 PM - Re: Windshield install (Jeff Carpenter)
17. 09:44 PM - more about the door SB (Ben Westfall)
Message 1
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I recently took off with a fully inflated front tyre and minutes later
landed on a dead flat one and ground the spat on the tarmac but thankfully
no more drastic damage. Though I had come from a grass strip, at
the postmortem I found no thorn but a tube tear near the valve stem. I am
wondering whether the valve stem clipped the nose fork and caused the
problem. I had fitted the new axle mod a month earlier and did not have the
valve cap on. Interested in Grumpy's and any other experience.
Geoff Bryant VH-XVR 170+ hrs and 12+ months to date Adelaide South Australia
>
>
Message 2
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Thanks for sharing the information Linn. I have a few months but plan on doing
it all myself.
--------
Wayne Gillispie
A&P 5/93', PP 10/08'
Grayson, KY
Bldr# 40983
Ordered complete kit 8/24/09
DB Schenker delivered 11/20/09
Starting empennage 11/24/09
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283210#283210
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| Subject: | Windshield install |
I want to post my experience with installing my front window yesterday
afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on. The window turned
out as good as I would have hoped. I started by getting the window to
fit very well to the flange and did the usual due diligence in tapping
off the inside edge and prepping the mating surfaces. Then mixed the
weld-on and while my son held, scooped it into a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4
inch opening off the end of the bag and ran a 1/4 inch bead of glue onto
the flange right at the aft edge. Do not over apply the glue. We set
the window in place and gently pushed till the weld-on flowed across the
flange. Then we ran straps across the window connected to the wing spar
to hold everything in place. I put blocks of foam and two rolled up
leather gloves under the straps at specific points to ensure a tight fit
but not along the glue joints. No crazing anywhere. I believe crazing
comes from too much pressure at a point while the glue cures. It really
makes some heat as it does. Using a squeeze bag to apply the product is
also the way to go without question. It almost eliminates the strings
and puts on a very uniform bead. After squeezing the bead, placing the
window, adjusting the straps and checking the fit, I could still easily
have squeezed more free flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of time
to work with this way. Also, by putting the bead of glue at the aft or
outer edge of the flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the
inside tape after about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack in all my
windows from using fingers to hold in a back window during gluing. I
would recommend weld-on and try to minimize any point pressure to the
glue joints for good results. Just thought you might like to know.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
>> 6. There are a few rivets in the upper firewall to forward fuselage
>> ribs that are very difficult to access with the engine in place. You
>> will want 2 sets of very small, but highly trained hands to help with
>> this step.
I forgot about those rivets - really perverse.
>>
>> Have fun.
> Fun??? Well, I am enjoying the journey. This is far more complex
> than building my Pitts ...... but the fun will come in the flying. My
> brain keeps the tune 'I'm a traveling man, made a lot of stop, all
> over the world ...... I want to see a lot more of my country before I
> croak!!!
Went to see "Up in the Air" last night (Clooney). A moving little movie
human connections and such, but the great aerial shots scattered
throughout had me longing for some flight... and not the airline style
of slumming around. It's ironic that we've done less flying during the
last 3 years of rolling our own, than we did in the previous 20. It's
been some of the most interesting aviation play ever but sure am missing
the clouds, and the places, and the people at those places. It's hard
to buck up for a 400 mile slog in the Maule when dreaming of '10! But
flying is flying - need a vacation.
Bill "flying the '10 in 10" Watson
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
Linn,
Sorry for the misattribution on your list. You are right about the Pitts being
much simpler. I did a plans built Pitts S1S about 30 years ago. While building
all those ribs and stitching was repetitious, it was a stone simple airplane.
Also, access was great. There wasn't anything that you couldn't get both hands
on. The -10 wont be nearly as much fun, but my wife is looking forward to something
she can enjoy flying. She did one take off and landing in the Pitts, and
said never again.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283236#283236
Message 6
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Thanks for that. I've managed to avoid working with the multi-conductor
shielded stuff so far but know there's some ahead.
I just finished mounting my front seat headphone jacks. Though my panel
is a DIY effort, I used FastStack for a custom wiring harness including
the jacks for the PS audio unit. I had them wire both regular jacks and
Bose power jacks for the front seat. The problem was where to mount
them all. Didn't want to put it on the panel so ended up installing
them on the sidewalls just ahead of the seats. Came up with a little
bracket that should work with or without my Flightline interior. Just
posted here:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=0&log'458&row=1
Bill "does the wiring ever end" Watson
Linn Walters wrote:
>
> Since I'm deep into wiring, there's some things I do to make life
> easier. I thought I'd share them. Wiring up my intercom I used some 4
> wire shielded for each position. Stripping the insulation off the
> braided ground is tough. My 'hint' is to use a razor blade just pressed
> on the insulation .... don't 'saw' .... and bend the wire to break the
> insulation all the way around. Keeps the braid intact.
>
> The next 'hint' is to use an insulator from a full-size alligator clip
> to capture the insulation and pull it off. You might have to flex the
> insulation to break it loose from the braid.
>
> There's also a nice EAA video on dealing with shielded wire.
>
> Linn
Message 7
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I already had the pilot/co-pilot jacks mounted and wired .... and
changed my mind. I have a PS 3000 intercom going in ..... and decided
that hanging the headsets on my overhead console .... would drape the
headset wires across the cabin and I didn't want that. So, the headset
jacks will be mounted in the center console covers between the seat
backs to keep the cord yanking down to a minimum.. Goof plugs will fill
the old jack holes in the panel. I wish I had looked closer and taken
more pictures of flying 10s ..... but Sun-n-Fun is on the horizon. I'm
constantly amazed at the neat ideas that builders come up with.
I received my door latch SB kit yesterday. So sad that all the time and
expense of making up the SB kit just for CYA. The quality of the kit is
excellent .... the reason sucks.
Linn
Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> Thanks for that. I've managed to avoid working with the multi-conductor
> shielded stuff so far but know there's some ahead.
>
> I just finished mounting my front seat headphone jacks. Though my panel
> is a DIY effort, I used FastStack for a custom wiring harness including
> the jacks for the PS audio unit. I had them wire both regular jacks and
> Bose power jacks for the front seat. The problem was where to mount
> them all. Didn't want to put it on the panel so ended up installing
> them on the sidewalls just ahead of the seats. Came up with a little
> bracket that should work with or without my Flightline interior. Just
> posted here:
> http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=0&log'458&row=1
>
>
> Bill "does the wiring ever end" Watson
>
> Linn Walters wrote:
>>
>> Since I'm deep into wiring, there's some things I do to make life
>> easier. I thought I'd share them. Wiring up my intercom I used some 4
>> wire shielded for each position. Stripping the insulation off the
>> braided ground is tough. My 'hint' is to use a razor blade just pressed
>> on the insulation .... don't 'saw' .... and bend the wire to break the
>> insulation all the way around. Keeps the braid intact.
>>
>> The next 'hint' is to use an insulator from a full-size alligator clip
>> to capture the insulation and pull it off. You might have to flex the
>> insulation to break it loose from the braid.
>>
>> There's also a nice EAA video on dealing with shielded wire.
>>
>> Linn
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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One other tidbit .... if you plan ahead real good (sometimes I did) you
can use short pieces of heat shrink in place of lacing cord or ty-raps.
Makes pulling bundles easier. Just make the shrinking part the last
thing!!!
Linn
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Flat Front Tyre |
Appears my flat was from the valve core. I had aired it up 2 days
prior before flying, so it was a fairly slow leak (appeared fine 1 hr
later after flying).
Had trouble getting the chuck to depress the valve core to allow air
into the tube, so my suspicion is the valve core got out of whack.
Replaced valve core and so far it is holding pressure. Had trouble
again getting the valve core depressed enough to allow air in.
Appears to me that the valve core recesses too far into the nose tube
(90 degree valve stem).
Gonna call Desser on Monday and ask about different valve core.
Going to look at all my pants during annual next month, and maybe
shave a little off the bottom of each one so that bottom of the pants
are slightly above the wheel rim.
grumpy
N184JM
On Jan 24, 2010, at 3:55 AM, Geoff Bryant wrote:
>
> I recently took off with a fully inflated front tyre and minutes
> later landed on a dead flat one and ground the spat on the tarmac
> but thankfully no more drastic damage. Though I had come from a
> grass strip, at the postmortem I found no thorn but a tube tear
> near the valve stem. I am wondering whether the valve stem clipped
> the nose fork and caused the problem. I had fitted the new axle mod
> a month earlier and did not have the valve cap on. Interested in
> Grumpy's and any other experience.
> Geoff Bryant VH-XVR 170+ hrs and 12+ months to date Adelaide South
> Australia
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield install |
Hi Dave,
What was your shop temperature during the installation?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Dave Leikam wrote:
> I want to post my experience with installing my front window
> yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on. The
> window turned out as good as I would have hoped. I started by
> getting the window to fit very well to the flange and did the usual
> due diligence in tapping off the inside edge and prepping the mating
> surfaces. Then mixed the weld-on and while my son held, scooped it
> into a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off the end of the bag
> and ran a 1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange right at the aft
> edge. Do not over apply the glue. We set the window in place and
> gently pushed till the weld-on flowed across the flange. Then we
> ran straps across the window connected to the wing spar to hold
> everything in place. I put blocks of foam and two rolled up leather
> gloves under the straps at specific points to ensure a tight fit but
> not along the glue joints. No crazing anywhere. I believe crazing
> comes from too much pressure at a point while the glue cures. It
> really makes some heat as it does. Using a squeeze bag to apply the
> product is also the way to go without question. It almost
> eliminates the strings and puts on a very uniform bead. After
> squeezing the bead, placing the window, adjusting the straps and
> checking the fit, I could still easily have squeezed more free
> flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of time to work with this
> way. Also, by putting the bead of glue at the aft or outer edge of
> the flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the inside
> tape after about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack in all my
> windows from using fingers to hold in a back window during gluing.
> I would recommend weld-on and try to minimize any point pressure to
> the glue joints for good results. Just thought you might like to
> know.
>
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA
> Muskego, WI
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
Sounds like you are a fan of the Powerblock. ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jae Chang
Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2010 11:27 AM
Subject: Fake powder coat - Re: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel?
I was just told about using truck bedliner paint trick, too. I was told
it gives a texture similar to powder coating, if you paint over it with
color. Not sure if that is true or not, as i have yet to test it myself.
I am regretting not painting the baffling pieces white earlier.
Considering the above for the baffling pieces.
Jae
40533
Hung the exhaust and now it's beautiful! :)
do not archive
Dave Leikam wrote:
>
> I am putting windscreen on first. I don't see any difference if you
> already riveted on the forward fuse top. Two more cents - I used
> rattle can, spray on, truck bed liner from the local auto parts store
> to paint the forward fuse top. Textured, flat black and very tough.
> Scuff and prime first.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA
> Muskego, WI
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Log book recommendations |
Does anyone have recommendations for airframe and engine log books; either paper
or software versions? I am also down to the last page in my pilots log; any
suggestions there? Thanks.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283294#283294
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield install |
68.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
Hi Dave,
What was your shop temperature during the installation?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Dave Leikam wrote:
I want to post my experience with installing my front window
yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on. The
window turned out as good as I would have hoped. I started by getting
the window to fit very well to the flange and did the usual due
diligence in tapping off the inside edge and prepping the mating
surfaces. Then mixed the weld-on and while my son held, scooped it into
a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off the end of the bag and ran a
1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange right at the aft edge. Do not
over apply the glue. We set the window in place and gently pushed till
the weld-on flowed across the flange. Then we ran straps across the
window connected to the wing spar to hold everything in place. I put
blocks of foam and two rolled up leather gloves under the straps at
specific points to ensure a tight fit but not along the glue joints. No
crazing anywhere. I believe crazing comes from too much pressure at a
point while the glue cures. It really makes some heat as it does.
Using a squeeze bag to apply the product is also the way to go without
question. It almost eliminates the strings and puts on a very uniform
bead. After squeezing the bead, placing the window, adjusting the straps
and checking the fit, I could still easily have squeezed more free
flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of time to work with this way.
Also, by putting the bead of glue at the aft or outer edge of the
flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the inside tape after
about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack in all my windows from using
fingers to hold in a back window during gluing. I would recommend
weld-on and try to minimize any point pressure to the glue joints for
good results. Just thought you might like to know.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Log book recommendations |
For pilot's log I use the nice one from Sporty's (not even sure if they still sell
it). I also transcribe it onto an Excel spreadsheet - makes it easier every
year, at insurance renewal, to add up total, in type, night, last year, last
90 days, etc.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283306#283306
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| Subject: | Re: Another flying 10 |
Congratulations John from a fellow TX RV'er. Maybe in another decade my 10 will
be flying.
If you are in our part of the state stop by sometime (0TX1 - Pecan Plantation).
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283317#283317
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield install |
at 98 the Weld-on 10 doesn't work so well
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 24, 2010, at 5:22 PM, "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam@wi.rr.com> wrote:
> 68.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA
> Muskego, WI
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jeff Carpenter
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 3:46 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
>
> Hi Dave,
>
> What was your shop temperature during the installation?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
> On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Dave Leikam wrote:
>
>> I want to post my experience with installing my front window
>> yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on. The
>> window turned out as good as I would have hoped. I started by
>> getting the window to fit very well to the flange and did the usual
>> due diligence in tapping off the inside edge and prepping the
>> mating surfaces. Then mixed the weld-on and while my son held,
>> scooped it into a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off the end
>> of the bag and ran a 1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange right at
>> the aft edge. Do not over apply the glue. We set the window in
>> place and gently pushed till the weld-on flowed across the flange.
>> Then we ran straps across the window connected to the wing spar to
>> hold everything in place. I put blocks of foam and two rolled up
>> leather gloves under the straps at specific points to ensure a
>> tight fit but not along the glue joints. No crazing anywhere. I
>> believe crazing comes from too much pressure at a point while the
>> glue cures. It really makes some heat as it does. Using a squeeze
>> bag to apply the product is also the way to go without question.
>> It almost eliminates the strings and puts on a very uniform bead.
>> After squeezing the bead, placing the window, adjusting the straps
>> and checking the fit, I could still easily have squeezed more free
>> flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of time to work with this
>> way. Also, by putting the bead of glue at the aft or outer edge of
>> the flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the inside
>> tape after about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack in all my
>> windows from using fingers to hold in a back window during gluing.
>> I would recommend weld-on and try to minimize any point pressure to
>> the glue joints for good results. Just thought you might like to
>> know.
>>
>>
>> Dave Leikam
>> RV-10 #40496
>> N89DA
>> Muskego, WI
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | more about the door SB |
I saw this on the door SB thread on VAF tonight. I don't recall seeing it
cross posted to this venue (sorry if it already was) so I thought I'd cross
post it here for those that might not read the VAF forums.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=53151
What caught my interest though was post #19 on page 2 by John Trollinger
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=53151
<http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=53151&page=2>
&page=2
http://rv10.trollingers.com/vans_images/Drawing1.jpg
I don't recall anyone mentioning his approach on the matronics list of a way
to operate the SB latch without the exterior protrusion using the stock
Van's door mechanism. It seems pretty clever. One would have to cut a big
enough access hole in the door to make enough room to attach the piece.
Riveting might be a bit too permanent if you had to remove the door rods but
I think the idea has some legs to it. I wonder if it would flex the tube up
rather than lift the latch?
-Ben Westfall
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