---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 01/24/10: 17 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:01 AM - Flat Front Tyre (Geoff Bryant) 2. 07:09 AM - Re: wiring (rv10flyer) 3. 08:21 AM - Windshield install (Dave Leikam) 4. 09:10 AM - Re: Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Bill Mauledriver Watson) 5. 09:47 AM - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Jim Berry) 6. 09:48 AM - Re: wiring (Bill Mauledriver Watson) 7. 11:36 AM - Re: wiring (Linn Walters) 8. 11:51 AM - Re: wiring (Linn Walters) 9. 11:56 AM - Re: Flat Front Tyre (Miller John) 10. 03:07 PM - Re: Windshield install (Jeff Carpenter) 11. 04:57 PM - Re: Fake powder coat - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen)) 12. 05:22 PM - Log book recommendations (Jim Berry) 13. 05:36 PM - Re: Windshield install (Dave Leikam) 14. 05:47 PM - Re: Log book recommendations (Bob Turner) 15. 07:57 PM - Re: Another flying 10 (nukeflyboy) 16. 08:05 PM - Re: Windshield install (Jeff Carpenter) 17. 09:44 PM - more about the door SB (Ben Westfall) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:01:56 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Flat Front Tyre From: Geoff Bryant I recently took off with a fully inflated front tyre and minutes later landed on a dead flat one and ground the spat on the tarmac but thankfully no more drastic damage. Though I had come from a grass strip, at the postmortem I found no thorn but a tube tear near the valve stem. I am wondering whether the valve stem clipped the nose fork and caused the problem. I had fitted the new axle mod a month earlier and did not have the valve cap on. Interested in Grumpy's and any other experience. Geoff Bryant VH-XVR 170+ hrs and 12+ months to date Adelaide South Australia > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:09:24 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: wiring From: "rv10flyer" Thanks for sharing the information Linn. I have a few months but plan on doing it all myself. -------- Wayne Gillispie A&P 5/93', PP 10/08' Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983 Ordered complete kit 8/24/09 DB Schenker delivered 11/20/09 Starting empennage 11/24/09 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283210#283210 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 08:21:32 AM PST US From: "Dave Leikam" Subject: RV10-List: Windshield install I want to post my experience with installing my front window yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on. The window turned out as good as I would have hoped. I started by getting the window to fit very well to the flange and did the usual due diligence in tapping off the inside edge and prepping the mating surfaces. Then mixed the weld-on and while my son held, scooped it into a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off the end of the bag and ran a 1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange right at the aft edge. Do not over apply the glue. We set the window in place and gently pushed till the weld-on flowed across the flange. Then we ran straps across the window connected to the wing spar to hold everything in place. I put blocks of foam and two rolled up leather gloves under the straps at specific points to ensure a tight fit but not along the glue joints. No crazing anywhere. I believe crazing comes from too much pressure at a point while the glue cures. It really makes some heat as it does. Using a squeeze bag to apply the product is also the way to go without question. It almost eliminates the strings and puts on a very uniform bead. After squeezing the bead, placing the window, adjusting the straps and checking the fit, I could still easily have squeezed more free flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of time to work with this way. Also, by putting the bead of glue at the aft or outer edge of the flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the inside tape after about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack in all my windows from using fingers to hold in a back window during gluing. I would recommend weld-on and try to minimize any point pressure to the glue joints for good results. Just thought you might like to know. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA Muskego, WI ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 09:10:56 AM PST US From: Bill Mauledriver Watson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Windscreen install before panel? >> 6. There are a few rivets in the upper firewall to forward fuselage >> ribs that are very difficult to access with the engine in place. You >> will want 2 sets of very small, but highly trained hands to help with >> this step. I forgot about those rivets - really perverse. >> >> Have fun. > Fun??? Well, I am enjoying the journey. This is far more complex > than building my Pitts ...... but the fun will come in the flying. My > brain keeps the tune 'I'm a traveling man, made a lot of stop, all > over the world ...... I want to see a lot more of my country before I > croak!!! Went to see "Up in the Air" last night (Clooney). A moving little movie human connections and such, but the great aerial shots scattered throughout had me longing for some flight... and not the airline style of slumming around. It's ironic that we've done less flying during the last 3 years of rolling our own, than we did in the previous 20. It's been some of the most interesting aviation play ever but sure am missing the clouds, and the places, and the people at those places. It's hard to buck up for a 400 mile slog in the Maule when dreaming of '10! But flying is flying - need a vacation. Bill "flying the '10 in 10" Watson ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 09:47:45 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Windscreen install before panel? From: "Jim Berry" Linn, Sorry for the misattribution on your list. You are right about the Pitts being much simpler. I did a plans built Pitts S1S about 30 years ago. While building all those ribs and stitching was repetitious, it was a stone simple airplane. Also, access was great. There wasn't anything that you couldn't get both hands on. The -10 wont be nearly as much fun, but my wife is looking forward to something she can enjoy flying. She did one take off and landing in the Pitts, and said never again. Jim Berry 40482 N15JB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283236#283236 ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 09:48:14 AM PST US From: Bill Mauledriver Watson Subject: Re: RV10-List: wiring Thanks for that. I've managed to avoid working with the multi-conductor shielded stuff so far but know there's some ahead. I just finished mounting my front seat headphone jacks. Though my panel is a DIY effort, I used FastStack for a custom wiring harness including the jacks for the PS audio unit. I had them wire both regular jacks and Bose power jacks for the front seat. The problem was where to mount them all. Didn't want to put it on the panel so ended up installing them on the sidewalls just ahead of the seats. Came up with a little bracket that should work with or without my Flightline interior. Just posted here: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=0&log'458&row=1 Bill "does the wiring ever end" Watson Linn Walters wrote: > > Since I'm deep into wiring, there's some things I do to make life > easier. I thought I'd share them. Wiring up my intercom I used some 4 > wire shielded for each position. Stripping the insulation off the > braided ground is tough. My 'hint' is to use a razor blade just pressed > on the insulation .... don't 'saw' .... and bend the wire to break the > insulation all the way around. Keeps the braid intact. > > The next 'hint' is to use an insulator from a full-size alligator clip > to capture the insulation and pull it off. You might have to flex the > insulation to break it loose from the braid. > > There's also a nice EAA video on dealing with shielded wire. > > Linn ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 11:36:06 AM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: wiring I already had the pilot/co-pilot jacks mounted and wired .... and changed my mind. I have a PS 3000 intercom going in ..... and decided that hanging the headsets on my overhead console .... would drape the headset wires across the cabin and I didn't want that. So, the headset jacks will be mounted in the center console covers between the seat backs to keep the cord yanking down to a minimum.. Goof plugs will fill the old jack holes in the panel. I wish I had looked closer and taken more pictures of flying 10s ..... but Sun-n-Fun is on the horizon. I'm constantly amazed at the neat ideas that builders come up with. I received my door latch SB kit yesterday. So sad that all the time and expense of making up the SB kit just for CYA. The quality of the kit is excellent .... the reason sucks. Linn Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote: > > > Thanks for that. I've managed to avoid working with the multi-conductor > shielded stuff so far but know there's some ahead. > > I just finished mounting my front seat headphone jacks. Though my panel > is a DIY effort, I used FastStack for a custom wiring harness including > the jacks for the PS audio unit. I had them wire both regular jacks and > Bose power jacks for the front seat. The problem was where to mount > them all. Didn't want to put it on the panel so ended up installing > them on the sidewalls just ahead of the seats. Came up with a little > bracket that should work with or without my Flightline interior. Just > posted here: > http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=0&log'458&row=1 > > > Bill "does the wiring ever end" Watson > > Linn Walters wrote: >> >> Since I'm deep into wiring, there's some things I do to make life >> easier. I thought I'd share them. Wiring up my intercom I used some 4 >> wire shielded for each position. Stripping the insulation off the >> braided ground is tough. My 'hint' is to use a razor blade just pressed >> on the insulation .... don't 'saw' .... and bend the wire to break the >> insulation all the way around. Keeps the braid intact. >> >> The next 'hint' is to use an insulator from a full-size alligator clip >> to capture the insulation and pull it off. You might have to flex the >> insulation to break it loose from the braid. >> >> There's also a nice EAA video on dealing with shielded wire. >> >> Linn > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:51:44 AM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: wiring One other tidbit .... if you plan ahead real good (sometimes I did) you can use short pieces of heat shrink in place of lacing cord or ty-raps. Makes pulling bundles easier. Just make the shrinking part the last thing!!! Linn ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 11:56:35 AM PST US From: Miller John Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flat Front Tyre Appears my flat was from the valve core. I had aired it up 2 days prior before flying, so it was a fairly slow leak (appeared fine 1 hr later after flying). Had trouble getting the chuck to depress the valve core to allow air into the tube, so my suspicion is the valve core got out of whack. Replaced valve core and so far it is holding pressure. Had trouble again getting the valve core depressed enough to allow air in. Appears to me that the valve core recesses too far into the nose tube (90 degree valve stem). Gonna call Desser on Monday and ask about different valve core. Going to look at all my pants during annual next month, and maybe shave a little off the bottom of each one so that bottom of the pants are slightly above the wheel rim. grumpy N184JM On Jan 24, 2010, at 3:55 AM, Geoff Bryant wrote: > > I recently took off with a fully inflated front tyre and minutes > later landed on a dead flat one and ground the spat on the tarmac > but thankfully no more drastic damage. Though I had come from a > grass strip, at the postmortem I found no thorn but a tube tear > near the valve stem. I am wondering whether the valve stem clipped > the nose fork and caused the problem. I had fitted the new axle mod > a month earlier and did not have the valve cap on. Interested in > Grumpy's and any other experience. > Geoff Bryant VH-XVR 170+ hrs and 12+ months to date Adelaide South > Australia > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 03:07:36 PM PST US From: Jeff Carpenter Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install Hi Dave, What was your shop temperature during the installation? Jeff Carpenter 40304 On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Dave Leikam wrote: > I want to post my experience with installing my front window > yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on. The > window turned out as good as I would have hoped. I started by > getting the window to fit very well to the flange and did the usual > due diligence in tapping off the inside edge and prepping the mating > surfaces. Then mixed the weld-on and while my son held, scooped it > into a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off the end of the bag > and ran a 1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange right at the aft > edge. Do not over apply the glue. We set the window in place and > gently pushed till the weld-on flowed across the flange. Then we > ran straps across the window connected to the wing spar to hold > everything in place. I put blocks of foam and two rolled up leather > gloves under the straps at specific points to ensure a tight fit but > not along the glue joints. No crazing anywhere. I believe crazing > comes from too much pressure at a point while the glue cures. It > really makes some heat as it does. Using a squeeze bag to apply the > product is also the way to go without question. It almost > eliminates the strings and puts on a very uniform bead. After > squeezing the bead, placing the window, adjusting the straps and > checking the fit, I could still easily have squeezed more free > flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of time to work with this > way. Also, by putting the bead of glue at the aft or outer edge of > the flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the inside > tape after about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack in all my > windows from using fingers to hold in a back window during gluing. > I would recommend weld-on and try to minimize any point pressure to > the glue joints for good results. Just thought you might like to > know. > > > Dave Leikam > RV-10 #40496 > N89DA > Muskego, WI > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 04:57:23 PM PST US From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" Subject: RE: Fake powder coat - Re: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel? Sounds like you are a fan of the Powerblock. ;-) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jae Chang Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2010 11:27 AM Subject: Fake powder coat - Re: RV10-List: Windscreen install before panel? I was just told about using truck bedliner paint trick, too. I was told it gives a texture similar to powder coating, if you paint over it with color. Not sure if that is true or not, as i have yet to test it myself. I am regretting not painting the baffling pieces white earlier. Considering the above for the baffling pieces. Jae 40533 Hung the exhaust and now it's beautiful! :) do not archive Dave Leikam wrote: > > I am putting windscreen on first. I don't see any difference if you > already riveted on the forward fuse top. Two more cents - I used > rattle can, spray on, truck bed liner from the local auto parts store > to paint the forward fuse top. Textured, flat black and very tough. > Scuff and prime first. > > Dave Leikam > RV-10 #40496 > N89DA > Muskego, WI > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 05:22:26 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Log book recommendations From: "Jim Berry" Does anyone have recommendations for airframe and engine log books; either paper or software versions? I am also down to the last page in my pilots log; any suggestions there? Thanks. Jim Berry 40482 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283294#283294 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 05:36:17 PM PST US From: "Dave Leikam" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install 68. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeff Carpenter To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 3:46 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install Hi Dave, What was your shop temperature during the installation? Jeff Carpenter 40304 On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Dave Leikam wrote: I want to post my experience with installing my front window yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on. The window turned out as good as I would have hoped. I started by getting the window to fit very well to the flange and did the usual due diligence in tapping off the inside edge and prepping the mating surfaces. Then mixed the weld-on and while my son held, scooped it into a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off the end of the bag and ran a 1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange right at the aft edge. Do not over apply the glue. We set the window in place and gently pushed till the weld-on flowed across the flange. Then we ran straps across the window connected to the wing spar to hold everything in place. I put blocks of foam and two rolled up leather gloves under the straps at specific points to ensure a tight fit but not along the glue joints. No crazing anywhere. I believe crazing comes from too much pressure at a point while the glue cures. It really makes some heat as it does. Using a squeeze bag to apply the product is also the way to go without question. It almost eliminates the strings and puts on a very uniform bead. After squeezing the bead, placing the window, adjusting the straps and checking the fit, I could still easily have squeezed more free flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of time to work with this way. Also, by putting the bead of glue at the aft or outer edge of the flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the inside tape after about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack in all my windows from using fingers to hold in a back window during gluing. I would recommend weld-on and try to minimize any point pressure to the glue joints for good results. Just thought you might like to know. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA Muskego, WI href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ontribution ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 05:47:55 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Log book recommendations From: "Bob Turner" For pilot's log I use the nice one from Sporty's (not even sure if they still sell it). I also transcribe it onto an Excel spreadsheet - makes it easier every year, at insurance renewal, to add up total, in type, night, last year, last 90 days, etc. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283306#283306 ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 07:57:39 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Another flying 10 From: "nukeflyboy" Congratulations John from a fellow TX RV'er. Maybe in another decade my 10 will be flying. If you are in our part of the state stop by sometime (0TX1 - Pecan Plantation). -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV-10 QB - FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283317#283317 ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 08:05:14 PM PST US From: Jeff Carpenter Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install at 98 the Weld-on 10 doesn't work so well Sent from my iPhone On Jan 24, 2010, at 5:22 PM, "Dave Leikam" wrote: > 68. > > Dave Leikam > RV-10 #40496 > N89DA > Muskego, WI > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeff Carpenter > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 3:46 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install > > Hi Dave, > > What was your shop temperature during the installation? > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > > On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Dave Leikam wrote: > >> I want to post my experience with installing my front window >> yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on. The >> window turned out as good as I would have hoped. I started by >> getting the window to fit very well to the flange and did the usual >> due diligence in tapping off the inside edge and prepping the >> mating surfaces. Then mixed the weld-on and while my son held, >> scooped it into a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off the end >> of the bag and ran a 1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange right at >> the aft edge. Do not over apply the glue. We set the window in >> place and gently pushed till the weld-on flowed across the flange. >> Then we ran straps across the window connected to the wing spar to >> hold everything in place. I put blocks of foam and two rolled up >> leather gloves under the straps at specific points to ensure a >> tight fit but not along the glue joints. No crazing anywhere. I >> believe crazing comes from too much pressure at a point while the >> glue cures. It really makes some heat as it does. Using a squeeze >> bag to apply the product is also the way to go without question. >> It almost eliminates the strings and puts on a very uniform bead. >> After squeezing the bead, placing the window, adjusting the straps >> and checking the fit, I could still easily have squeezed more free >> flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of time to work with this >> way. Also, by putting the bead of glue at the aft or outer edge of >> the flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the inside >> tape after about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack in all my >> windows from using fingers to hold in a back window during gluing. >> I would recommend weld-on and try to minimize any point pressure to >> the glue joints for good results. Just thought you might like to >> know. >> >> >> Dave Leikam >> RV-10 #40496 >> N89DA >> Muskego, WI >> >> >> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http:// > www.matronics.com/c > > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 09:44:02 PM PST US From: "Ben Westfall" Subject: RV10-List: more about the door SB I saw this on the door SB thread on VAF tonight. I don't recall seeing it cross posted to this venue (sorry if it already was) so I thought I'd cross post it here for those that might not read the VAF forums. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=53151 What caught my interest though was post #19 on page 2 by John Trollinger http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=53151 &page=2 http://rv10.trollingers.com/vans_images/Drawing1.jpg I don't recall anyone mentioning his approach on the matronics list of a way to operate the SB latch without the exterior protrusion using the stock Van's door mechanism. It seems pretty clever. One would have to cut a big enough access hole in the door to make enough room to attach the piece. Riveting might be a bit too permanent if you had to remove the door rods but I think the idea has some legs to it. I wonder if it would flex the tube up rather than lift the latch? -Ben Westfall ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.