Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:55 AM - Re: Wing Wiring and Conduit (Kent Ogden)
2. 08:30 AM - Re: Wing Wiring and Conduit (Kelly McMullen)
3. 08:50 AM - Re: Wing Wiring and Conduit (Rene Felker)
4. 09:57 AM - Re: Windshield install (Dave Leikam)
5. 10:14 AM - Re: Log book recommendations (Dave Saylor)
6. 10:15 AM - Re: Fake powder coat - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Jae Chang)
7. 10:53 AM - Re: Windshield install (Michael Kraus)
8. 11:06 AM - Another wing build question--wing walk doublers (Billy & Tami Britton)
9. 11:21 AM - Re: Another wing build question--wing walk doublers (John Kirkland)
10. 11:40 AM - Re: Windshield install (Pascal)
11. 11:41 AM - Re: Another wing build question--wing walk doublers (Bob Leffler)
12. 01:27 PM - All dressed up (aerosport1)
13. 01:47 PM - Re: Windshield install (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
14. 01:52 PM - Re: All dressed up (Jeff Carpenter)
15. 06:37 PM - Re: Fake powder coat - Re: Windscreen install before panel? (Dave Leikam)
16. 07:40 PM - Re: All dressed up (John Gonzalez)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Wiring and Conduit |
Thanks for the replies. I decided to go ahead and order all of the
accessories I will put in the wings (lights, servos, AOA etc.) so there will
be no surprises down the road. It's surprising how much extra you can spend
on accessories :). I have been mulling the Safeair tip tanks as well, but
at this point the budget won't bear it. Also, after reading all the great
trip reports and thinking about the reality of sitting in the plane for that
long, I don't think I will really need them.
Kent
#40710 Wings
>>> "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com> 1/21/2010 1:11 PM
>>>
<drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
Kent Ogden wrote:
Kent;
Few things to think about;
AOA. I ran my plastic tubing lines thru the same conduit. Plastic one
worked well. As mentioned, Make sure you have an extra pull string.
Other things to think about:
Wingtip lighting (position /strobe/led/whelen)
Will your pitot tube have a heating element for ice? Will need power
and indicator lights.
VOR /marker beacon antennae? Some people put theirs in the wingtip.
Temp probe? I put mine in an accessible area inboard of the innermost
inspection plate.
Do you want a landing light (like duckworks) or go with the wing tip
landing lights?
Start getting a spread sheet of what you want in the wings before you
rivet up the lower skin.
Dr Fred
515FW
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Wiring and Conduit |
I don't know if that makes sense. The market of available items keeps
changing. I don't plan to rivet the bottom skin on until I am just
about ready to mount the wings to the fuselage. Pitot selection
depends on EFIS selection, as does AOA. Servos depend on autopilot
selection..True track and Dyon are supposed to physically interchange,
but not electronically. I don't think the market is mature on LED
lights, nor HID lights. Given that from the wings completion to wing
mounting is at least 6 months or more work, I want at least 1 more OSH
to go by before I finalize any of that.
Kelly
40866
Wings about complete, except for wiring and accessories.
On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 8:30 AM, Kent Ogden <OgdenK@upstate.edu> wrote:
> Thanks for the replies. I decided to go ahead and order all of the
> accessories I will put in the wings (lights, servos, AOA etc.) so there will
> be no surprises down the road. It's surprising how much extra you can spend
> on accessories :). I have been mulling the Safeair tip tanks as well, but
> at this point the budget won't bear it. Also, after reading all the great
> trip reports and thinking about the reality of sitting in the plane for that
> long, I don't think I will really need them.
>
> Kent
> #40710 Wings
>
>>>> "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com> 1/21/2010 1:11 PM >>>
> <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
>
> Kent Ogden wrote:
> Kent;
>
> Few things to think about;
>
> AOA. I ran my plastic tubing lines thru the same conduit. Plastic one
> worked well. As mentioned, Make sure you have an extra pull string.
>
> Other things to think about:
> Wingtip lighting (position /strobe/led/whelen)
> Will your pitot tube have a heating element for ice? Will need power
> and indicator lights.
> VOR /marker beacon antennae? Some people put theirs in the wingtip.
> Temp probe? I put mine in an accessible area inboard of the innermost
> inspection plate.
> Do you want a landing light (like duckworks) or go with the wing tip
> landing lights?
>
> Start getting a spread sheet of what you want in the wings before you
> rivet up the lower skin.
>
>
> Dr Fred
> 515FW
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Wing Wiring and Conduit |
My view on the tip tanks=85=85
Wife and kids don=92t fly legs more than 2.5hr legs=85
Weight. I have my airplane at 2800 and with people in the back seats I
hit
the limit.
60 gallons at reasonable fuel burn rates (12.2 rich of peak, 10.5 lean
of
peak (or better)), always provides for at least 4 hours of flight
time=85..
So for me it does not really work out to be a good deal. Just think of
how
many flights you will have where you will need the fuel=85=85=85=85.
Rene
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Ogden
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 8:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing Wiring and Conduit
Thanks for the replies. I decided to go ahead and order all of the
accessories I will put in the wings (lights, servos, AOA etc.) so there
will
be no surprises down the road. It's surprising how much extra you can
spend
on accessories :). I have been mulling the Safeair tip tanks as well,
but
at this point the budget won't bear it. Also, after reading all the
great
trip reports and thinking about the reality of sitting in the plane for
that
long, I don't think I will really need them.
Kent
#40710 Wings
>>> "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com> 1/21/2010 1:11 PM
>>>
<drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
Kent Ogden wrote:
Kent;
Few things to think about;
AOA. I ran my plastic tubing lines thru the same conduit. Plastic one
worked well. As mentioned, Make sure you have an extra pull string.
Other things to think about:
Wingtip lighting (position /strobe/led/whelen)
Will your pitot tube have a heating element for ice? Will need power
and indicator lights.
VOR /marker beacon antennae? Some people put theirs in the wingtip.
Temp probe? I put mine in an accessible area inboard of the innermost
inspection plate.
Do you want a landing light (like duckworks) or go with the wing tip
landing lights?
Start getting a spread sheet of what you want in the wings before you
rivet up the lower skin.
Dr Fred
515FW
=B7~=89=B2,
_____
g'=D3=D3
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield install |
My point in posting is just that I think the product gets more negative
publicity than it should. Plan to install on a cooler day, and keep the
product refrigerated until just prior to mixing. Using a squeeze bag
makes a huge difference in application time as well. I bet it took me
little more than 60-90 seconds once mixed to get the product in the bag
and apply the bead to the flange including the time to reposition a step
ladder from one side of the fuse to the other and I'm no artist! I did
experimented with other products (3M Scotch Weld 2216 easily pops apart
after 5 days curing) and in the end, I really feel confident with the
strength of the bond using weld-on. That's all I have to say about
that.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
at 98 the Weld-on 10 doesn't work so well
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 24, 2010, at 5:22 PM, "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
wrote:
68.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
Hi Dave,
What was your shop temperature during the installation?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Dave Leikam wrote:
I want to post my experience with installing my front window
yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on. The
window turned out as good as I would have hoped. I started by getting
the window to fit very well to the flange and did the usual due
diligence in tapping off the inside edge and prepping the mating
surfaces. Then mixed the weld-on and while my son held, scooped it into
a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off the end of the bag and ran a
1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange right at the aft edge. Do not
over apply the glue. We set the window in place and gently pushed till
the weld-on flowed across the flange. Then we ran straps across the
window connected to the wing spar to hold everything in place. I put
blocks of foam and two rolled up leather gloves under the straps at
specific points to ensure a tight fit but not along the glue joints. No
crazing anywhere. I believe crazing comes from too much pressure at a
point while the glue cures. It really makes some heat as it does.
Using a squeeze bag to apply the product is also the way to go without
question. It almost eliminates the strings and puts on a very uniform
bead. After squeezing the bead, placing the window, adjusting the straps
and checking the fit, I could still easily have squeezed more free
flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of time to work with this way.
Also, by putting the bead of glue at the aft or outer edge of the
flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the inside tape after
about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack in all my windows from using
fingers to hold in a back window during gluing. I would recommend
weld-on and try to minimize any point pressure to the glue joints for
good results. Just thought you might like to know.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Log book recommendations |
Jim,
I'm glad you asked, I've been meaning to post this. This is about the third
or fourth version. We've been using it for about a year now without any
changes.
I use a spreadsheet, then print it on card stock. I can go back and enter
the data pretty easily, although it's not as foolproof as I imagined.
I keep several blank pages in the flight manual (binder), and use it as both
a flight log and maintenance logbook. I've worked with a lot of different
logbooks and I like this one best. It puts a lot of information all in one
place. My engine came with a logbook but I keep all the engine and airframe
entries on the cards.
When the pages get full, I file them away so I have a permanent record
outside the plane. The card stock holds up pretty well. I can stick the
transponder sign-offs, etc, right on the page.
While I'm sort of on the subject, I keep track of time with an
old-fashioined Hobbs meter running off of engine oil pressure. I had a
customer who absolutely had to have a Hobbs meter in his plane, because he
swore he'd need to refer to it regularly--he was right. I hate waiting for
all the glass to boot up before I can just jot down the airframe time, then
just turn it all off. The Hobbs is just really convenient, if a bit out of
place.
My two cents,
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Sun, Jan 24, 2010 at 5:19 PM, Jim Berry <jimberry@qwest.net> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have recommendations for airframe and engine log books; either
> paper or software versions? I am also down to the last page in my pilots
> log; any suggestions there? Thanks.
>
> Jim Berry
> 40482
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283294#283294
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
Haha, guilty as charged. I have those shows scheduled on the DVR. Just
goes to show you the power of television. My next build after the -10 is
going to be to a 450 Hemi powered, lifted, monster truck rock crawler
thing with FOOSE wheels! ;)
I did pick up a can of the bedliner. After just 1 day of drying, it
didn't seem exceptionally durable per se. Also, with just 1 coat, I
didn't necessarily see the powder coat illusion. Will keep testing it.
Jay
40533
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> Sounds like you are a fan of the Powerblock. ;-)
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield install |
I am just a bit surprised that you are vocally recommending a product
that did put a small crack in 1 of 5 windows..... I built 1 RV-10
with Weld on, and I personally will not use the product again.
Especially after talking with the windscreen manufacturer in Ohio and
'wishes Vans didn't recommend weld on.'. I have used SikaFlex with
great success and I don't need to worry about point loading as you do
with Weld On. Sure Weld On works if you happen to have parts that fit
perfectly and if you do everything exactly right, but if one of the
windows doesn't fit just right and you need to pull it in place, Weld
On is way less forgiving.
YMMV, That's just my experience.
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 Flying
RV-10 wiring
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 25, 2010, at 9:16 AM, "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam@wi.rr.com> wrote:
> My point in posting is just that I think the product gets more
> negative publicity than it should. Plan to install on a cooler day,
> and keep the product refrigerated until just prior to mixing. Using
> a squeeze bag makes a huge difference in application time as well.
> I bet it took me little more than 60-90 seconds once mixed to get
> the product in the bag and apply the bead to the flange including
> the time to reposition a step ladder from one side of the fuse to
> the other and I'm no artist! I did experimented with other
> products (3M Scotch Weld 2216 easily pops apart after 5 days curing)
> and in the end, I really feel confident with the strength of the
> bond using weld-on. That's all I have to say about that.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA
> Muskego, WI
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jeff Carpenter
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 9:57 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
>
> at 98 the Weld-on 10 doesn't work so well
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 24, 2010, at 5:22 PM, "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
> wrote:
>
>> 68.
>>
>> Dave Leikam
>> RV-10 #40496
>> N89DA
>> Muskego, WI
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Jeff Carpenter
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 3:46 PM
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
>>
>> Hi Dave,
>>
>> What was your shop temperature during the installation?
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>>
>>
>> On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Dave Leikam wrote:
>>
>>> I want to post my experience with installing my front window
>>> yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on.
>>> The window turned out as good as I would have hoped. I started by
>>> getting the window to fit very well to the flange and did the
>>> usual due diligence in tapping off the inside edge and prepping
>>> the mating surfaces. Then mixed the weld-on and while my son
>>> held, scooped it into a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off
>>> the end of the bag and ran a 1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange
>>> right at the aft edge. Do not over apply the glue. We set the
>>> window in place and gently pushed till the weld-on flowed across
>>> the flange. Then we ran straps across the window connected to the
>>> wing spar to hold everything in place. I put blocks of foam and
>>> two rolled up leather gloves under the straps at specific points
>>> to ensure a tight fit but not along the glue joints. No crazing
>>> anywhere. I believe crazing comes from too much pressure at a
>>> point while the glue cures. It really makes some heat as it
>>> does. Using a squeeze bag to apply the product is also the way to
>>> go without question. It almost eliminates the strings and puts on
>>> a very uniform bead. After squeezing the bead, placing the window,
>>> adjusting the straps and checking the fit, I could still easily
>>> have squeezed more free flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of
>>> time to work with this way. Also, by putting the bead of glue at
>>> the aft or outer edge of the flange, cleanup on the inside was
>>> minimal. Remove the inside tape after about 30 minutes. I have
>>> one minor crack in all my windows from using fingers to hold in a
>>> back window during gluing. I would recommend weld-on and try to
>>> minimize any point pressure to the glue joints for good results.
>>> Just thought you might like to know.
>>>
>>>
>>> Dave Leikam
>>> RV-10 #40496
>>> N89DA
>>> Muskego, WI
>>>
>>>
>>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Another wing build question--wing walk doublers |
On page 16-2 step 3. The second part of this step has us dimple the aft
most screw hole for a #8 flush head screw. Easy enough. Next it asks
us to machine countersink the rest of the screw holes for a #8 flush
head screw dimple. Do we countersink the skin- or- the wing walk
doublers underneath of the skin and just dimple the skin?
Next question is the last part of the step. We are asked to machine
countersink all the rivet holes that correspond to the W-1027A and
W-1027B wing walk doublers for the head of an AN426AD3 rivet. Again, do
we countersink the skin or just countersink the doublers and dimple the
skin?
Thanks in advance,
Bill
RV-10 wings
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Another wing build question--wing walk doublers |
Countersink the skin and doubler, nothing gets dimpled. Use a piece of scrap with
a #8 dimple as a test piece to judge how much to countersink. The test dimple
needs to fit in the countersink, just like the fairing will when you have the
wings mounted. Otherwise, the fairing that covers the gap between wing and
fuselage will sit high.
--------
RV-10 #40333
N540XP (reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283401#283401
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield install |
Thanks Dave! I have had no issues with Weld-on, windows fit fine and
I'll probably go this route for the windscreen so your feedback is
appreciated.
Pascal
From: Dave Leikam
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 6:16 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
My point in posting is just that I think the product gets more negative
publicity than it should. Plan to install on a cooler day, and keep the
product refrigerated until just prior to mixing. Using a squeeze bag
makes a huge difference in application time as well. I bet it took me
little more than 60-90 seconds once mixed to get the product in the bag
and apply the bead to the flange including the time to reposition a step
ladder from one side of the fuse to the other and I'm no artist! I did
experimented with other products (3M Scotch Weld 2216 easily pops apart
after 5 days curing) and in the end, I really feel confident with the
strength of the bond using weld-on. That's all I have to say about
that.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
at 98 the Weld-on 10 doesn't work so well
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 24, 2010, at 5:22 PM, "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
wrote:
68.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
Hi Dave,
What was your shop temperature during the installation?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Dave Leikam wrote:
I want to post my experience with installing my front window
yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using weld-on. The
window turned out as good as I would have hoped. I started by getting
the window to fit very well to the flange and did the usual due
diligence in tapping off the inside edge and prepping the mating
surfaces. Then mixed the weld-on and while my son held, scooped it into
a squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off the end of the bag and ran a
1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange right at the aft edge. Do not
over apply the glue. We set the window in place and gently pushed till
the weld-on flowed across the flange. Then we ran straps across the
window connected to the wing spar to hold everything in place. I put
blocks of foam and two rolled up leather gloves under the straps at
specific points to ensure a tight fit but not along the glue joints. No
crazing anywhere. I believe crazing comes from too much pressure at a
point while the glue cures. It really makes some heat as it does.
Using a squeeze bag to apply the product is also the way to go without
question. It almost eliminates the strings and puts on a very uniform
bead. After squeezing the bead, placing the window, adjusting the straps
and checking the fit, I could still easily have squeezed more free
flowing weld-on from that bag. Plenty of time to work with this way.
Also, by putting the bead of glue at the aft or outer edge of the
flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the inside tape after
about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack in all my windows from using
fingers to hold in a back window during gluing. I would recommend
weld-on and try to minimize any point pressure to the glue joints for
good results. Just thought you might like to know.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Another wing build question--wing walk doublers |
Bill,
Just countersink the skin. The doublers should be in place. If the
countersink bit has to cut any of the doubler to get the proper depth, it
will. As you know, with a countersink, the bottom of the wing skin will be
flush, so there is no need to dimple or countersink the doubler directly.
Same procedure for both operations.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami
Britton
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 2:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Another wing build question--wing walk doublers
On page 16-2 step 3. The second part of this step has us dimple the aft
most screw hole for a #8 flush head screw. Easy enough. Next it asks us to
machine countersink the rest of the screw holes for a #8 flush head screw
dimple. Do we countersink the skin- or- the wing walk doublers underneath
of the skin and just dimple the skin?
Next question is the last part of the step. We are asked to machine
countersink all the rivet holes that correspond to the W-1027A and W-1027B
wing walk doublers for the head of an AN426AD3 rivet. Again, do we
countersink the skin or just countersink the doublers and dimple the skin?
Thanks in advance,
Bill
RV-10 wings
Message 12
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Finally after 3 months since my first flight I got my gear legs and wheel pants
painted and installed. I thought I would share these photos and help
inspire everyone still banging rivets or working on the fiberglass that it is worth
every hour. Also included a picture of my panel with my
AFS 4500 SV's.
More photos available at http://combsfamily.phanpare.com
Geoff
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283424#283424
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0337_283.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0325_153.jpg
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield install |
I feel the same way. It does form a very strong bond based on some test
pieces I bashed around. Seems like all the alternatives may be a bit
easier to work with. The strenght of the alternatives may or may not be
all there but it may not be needed.
Clearly there are some challenges and warnings with Weld-on's use.
This list seems to have identified them along with work arounds and that
makes a big difference. Thanks all!
So, I used the tongues and clecos for the 4 windows, takes 15mins or
less to do the job, removed everything in about an hour - no cracks,
nice bonds, only spread some mess around on one of them when I didn't
use the bag.
Plan to do the windsheild and expect no problems.
Bill
> Thanks Dave! I have had no issues with Weld-on, windows fit fine and
> I'll probably go this route for the windscreen so your feedback is
> appreciated.
>
> Pascal
> *From:* Dave Leikam <mailto:daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, January 25, 2010 6:16 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
>
> My point in posting is just that I think the product gets more
> negative publicity than it should. Plan to install on a cooler day,
> and keep the product refrigerated until just prior to mixing. Using a
> squeeze bag makes a huge difference in application time as well. I
> bet it took me little more than 60-90 seconds once mixed to get the
> product in the bag and apply the bead to the flange including the time
> to reposition a step ladder from one side of the fuse to the other and
> I'm no artist! I did experimented with other products (3M Scotch
> Weld 2216 easily pops apart after 5 days curing) and in the end, I
> really feel confident with the strength of the bond using weld-on.
> That's all I have to say about that.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA
> Muskego, WI
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Jeff Carpenter <mailto:jeff@westcottpress.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 24, 2010 9:57 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
>
> at 98 the Weld-on 10 doesn't work so well
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 24, 2010, at 5:22 PM, "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam@wi.rr.com
> <mailto:daveleikam@wi.rr.com>> wrote:
>
>> 68.
>>
>> Dave Leikam
>> RV-10 #40496
>> N89DA
>> Muskego, WI
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* Jeff Carpenter <mailto:jeff@westcottpress.com>
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> *Sent:* Sunday, January 24, 2010 3:46 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Windshield install
>>
>> Hi Dave,
>>
>> What was your shop temperature during the installation?
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>>
>>
>> On Jan 24, 2010, at 8:18 AM, Dave Leikam wrote:
>>
>>> I want to post my experience with installing my front window
>>> yesterday afternoon. I had no problems at all using
>>> weld-on. The window turned out as good as I would have
>>> hoped. I started by getting the window to fit very well to
>>> the flange and did the usual due diligence in tapping off
>>> the inside edge and prepping the mating surfaces. Then
>>> mixed the weld-on and while my son held, scooped it into a
>>> squeeze bag. Cut a 1/4 inch opening off the end of the bag
>>> and ran a 1/4 inch bead of glue onto the flange right at the
>>> aft edge. Do not over apply the glue. We set the window in
>>> place and gently pushed till the weld-on flowed across the
>>> flange. Then we ran straps across the window connected to
>>> the wing spar to hold everything in place. I put blocks of
>>> foam and two rolled up leather gloves under the straps at
>>> specific points to ensure a tight fit but not along the glue
>>> joints. No crazing anywhere. I believe crazing comes from
>>> too much pressure at a point while the glue cures. It
>>> really makes some heat as it does. Using a squeeze bag to
>>> apply the product is also the way to go without question.
>>> It almost eliminates the strings and puts on a very uniform
>>> bead. After squeezing the bead, placing the window,
>>> adjusting the straps and checking the fit, I could still
>>> easily have squeezed more free flowing weld-on from that
>>> bag. Plenty of time to work with this way. Also, by
>>> putting the bead of glue at the aft or outer edge of the
>>> flange, cleanup on the inside was minimal. Remove the
>>> inside tape after about 30 minutes. I have one minor crack
>>> in all my windows from using fingers to hold in a back
>>> window during gluing. I would recommend weld-on and try to
>>> minimize any point pressure to the glue joints for good
>>> results. Just thought you might like to know.
>>>
>>>
>>> Dave Leikam
>>> RV-10 #40496
>>> N89DA
>>> Muskego, WI
>>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: All dressed up |
absolutely beautiful
On Jan 25, 2010, at 1:21 PM, aerosport1 wrote:
> >
>
> Finally after 3 months since my first flight I got my gear legs and
> wheel pants painted and installed. I thought I would share these
> photos and help
> inspire everyone still banging rivets or working on the fiberglass
> that it is worth every hour. Also included a picture of my panel
> with my
> AFS 4500 SV's.
>
> More photos available at http://combsfamily.phanpare.com
>
> Geoff
>
> --------
> Geoff Combs
> RV-10 QB N829GW
> Flying
> 40033
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283424#283424
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0337_283.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0325_153.jpg
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Windscreen install before panel? |
I used an entire can on my forward fuse. As many coats as I could get on
until the can was empty. The stuff I used dried very fast so I sprayed all
the coats in a short time. I also primed first with self etching primer.
In testing, I found without the primer, the coating did not stick as well.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jae Chang" <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2010 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: Fake powder coat - Re: RV10-List: Windscreen install before
panel?
>
> Haha, guilty as charged. I have those shows scheduled on the DVR. Just
> goes to show you the power of television. My next build after the -10 is
> going to be to a 450 Hemi powered, lifted, monster truck rock crawler
> thing with FOOSE wheels! ;)
>
> I did pick up a can of the bedliner. After just 1 day of drying, it didn't
> seem exceptionally durable per se. Also, with just 1 coat, I didn't
> necessarily see the powder coat illusion. Will keep testing it.
>
> Jay
> 40533
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>>
>> Sounds like you are a fan of the Powerblock. ;-)
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 16
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Beautiful job and great design.
Do Not Arhcive
> Subject: RV10-List: All dressed up
> From: g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com
> Date: Mon=2C 25 Jan 2010 13:21:43 -0800
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
com>
>
> Finally after 3 months since my first flight I got my gear legs and wheel
pants painted and installed. I thought I would share these photos and help
> inspire everyone still banging rivets or working on the fiberglass that i
t is worth every hour. Also included a picture of my panel with my
> AFS 4500 SV's.
>
> More photos available at http://combsfamily.phanpare.com
>
> Geoff
>
> --------
> Geoff Combs
> RV-10 QB N829GW
> Flying
> 40033
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283424#283424
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0337_283.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0325_153.jpg
>
>
>
>
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===========
===========
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>
>
>
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