Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:12 AM - 3d Model (jason.kreidler@regalbeloit.com)
2. 07:02 AM - Fuel Valve (Kelly McMullen)
3. 07:31 AM - Re: Fuel Valve (Kelly McMullen)
4. 07:40 AM - Re: Fuel Valve (Perry, Phil)
5. 07:42 AM - Re: Aileron trim servo (Linn Walters)
6. 08:23 AM - Re: trimming cabin cover door openings (Rob Kochman)
7. 08:42 AM - Re: Re: Door Flex (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
8. 09:14 AM - Re: trimming cabin cover door openings (Rob Kochman)
9. 01:00 PM - Re: trimming cabin cover door openings (Roxanne and Mike Lefever)
10. 01:07 PM - Re: Re: Door Flex (Roxanne and Mike Lefever)
11. 01:33 PM - Re: trimming cabin cover door openings (Rob Kochman)
12. 02:18 PM - Re: RV8 Kit for sale (rucky)
13. 02:47 PM - Re: Re: RV8 Kit for sale (DLM)
14. 05:46 PM - Bogi-Bar (Les Kearney)
15. 05:54 PM - Re: Bogi-Bar (ricksked@cox.net)
16. 06:05 PM - Re: Bogi-Bar (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
17. 06:21 PM - Re: Bogi-Bar (Les Kearney)
18. 06:28 PM - Re: trimming cabin cover door openings (johngoodman)
19. 06:34 PM - Re: Bogi-Bar (Les Kearney)
20. 06:36 PM - Re: Re: trimming cabin cover door openings (Roxanne and Mike Lefever)
21. 06:45 PM - Re: trimming cabin cover door openings (johngoodman)
22. 10:19 PM - Re: Bogi-Bar (ricksked@cox.net)
23. 11:02 PM - heat scat tube and fuel valve (rvdave)
24. 11:11 PM - Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve (Bob Turner)
Message 1
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Has anyone taken the time to create a 3D model of the RV-10? I would like
something to use to help in paint scheme design. I tried the aircraft
painter that is available on the web, works OK, but it doesn't allow very
much precision (control) in how lines transition from one surface to
another.
Van's will not give me a model.....
Thanks, Jason
N44YH - Flying
Sheboygan Falls, WI
4 Partner Build
Message 2
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Is the Andair still considered the best setup? I understand that Van's
supplied valve is significantly improved from original. Cost vs better
function? Anyone flying with Van's improved valve? Just trying to
asses how many "improvements" I want to do vs time and cost to do
them.
Kelly
40866
QB fuse
Message 3
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Disregard...after reviewing archives, it appears that even the newer
valve isn't good for much more than 300 hrs.
On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 8:01 AM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Is the Andair still considered the best setup? I understand that Van's
> supplied valve is significantly improved from original. Cost vs better
> function? Anyone flying with Van's improved valve? Just trying to
> asses how many "improvements" I want to do vs time and cost to do
> them.
> Kelly
> 40866
> QB fuse
>
>
Message 4
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Thanks for the research, Kelly..
I'll dig a little deeper into my wallet now.
Good thing it's payday.
If you get a minute, do you mind sharing those previous threads? I'd
like to take a walk through them.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 9:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Valve
Disregard...after reviewing archives, it appears that even the newer
valve isn't good for much more than 300 hrs.
On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 8:01 AM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
> Is the Andair still considered the best setup? I understand that Van's
> supplied valve is significantly improved from original. Cost vs better
> function? Anyone flying with Van's improved valve? Just trying to
> asses how many "improvements" I want to do vs time and cost to do
> them.
> Kelly
> 40866
> QB fuse
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron trim servo |
ricksked@cox.net wrote:
>
> True dat Linn but you are reinventing the wheel, and in my ignorance
> I thought the servos were pulse code modulation?? Same thing??
Well, no. 'Code' implies information sent in a string of bits .... like
serial data. The Trio 'gold standard' servos use a serial link to send
positioning data.
> and you hit the nail on the head...Why do you need a proportional servo
> for trim?
Because you can control it's exact position by sending pulses of a known
width .... as in centering the trim, and you can control the speed
(rate)the servo moves by changing the pulse width just a little and
changing the time between pulses.
> Motor, gear box done....the R/C servo adds an additional
> fail point in the form of a potentiometer right?
Oh, it gets worse than that! What Lew and I are talking about is a
little computer-on-a-chip. It has 16 I/O pins and uses a little basic
program that most anyone can write with a little practice. I've used
them in other applications.
> You've succeeded in
> reinventing the trim system and since were friends I totally know why
> you're doing it...cause you can and you're retired and it's what ya
> do!!!
Well, that's pretty much it .... I think it boils down to trim by
sledgehammer or mind-meld. My friends liken it to polishing a horse
turd .... what you get is a shiny turd. Prettier, but still the same.
Boils down to finess. Like the door SB. Sorry, couldn't resist!
Linn
>
> Rick Do not archive Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Linn Walters
> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2010 23:48:08 To:
> <rv10-list@matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron trim servo
>
> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>
> ricksked@cox.net wrote:
>>
>> Having quite a bit of R/C servo experience and Ray Allen being one
>> of the first servo manufac. of servos for heavy duty use I can't
>> see adapting some of the high speed/torq coreless bb servos for
>> full scale use.
> The Ray Allen servo's are just a motor with gear train, needing to
> run the motor forward and backwards. It has no 'positioning'
> capability other than when you let your finger off the switch. The
> model airplane servos are pulse width modulated (PWM) and seek a
> position based on the pulse width.
>> In the large scale and ducted fan/turbine R/C aircraft the precise
>> high torq BB servos really do fit the bill. For trim tabs you might
>> as well buy a sail winch servo..
> ? didn't understand that one. All I'm moving is a short length of
> hinge.
>> R/C servos as far as I know always draw current to hold position.
>> For a long flight your asking that servo to maintain position and
>> work constantly leading to early failure and not designed for that
>> kind of extended use like the Ray Allen trim servo which is geared
>> to hold position all the time regardless if it has power...just
>> something to think about...
> The MA servos seem to last a whole lot longer than the MAs do! <GR>
> Once the MA servo gets to it's commanded position .... nothing moves
> until the pulse width changes. True, it consumes a little power,
> but it's miniscule.
>
> I'm using the Ray Allen servo for the elevator trim only because it
> was part of the kit when I bought it. I'd much rather have a smart
> servo that moves in small increments independent of how quick I am on
> the switch handle.
>
> The only downside to using the MA servo is having to create the pulse
> width. Linn
>
>> Rick Sked ------Original Message------ From: Lew Gallagher Sender:
>> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> ReplyTo: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Jan 28, 2010 6:22 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Aileron trim servo
>>
>> <lewgall@charter.net>
>>
>> Hey Guys,
>>
>> I'm following up on Linn's advice to teach myself about the
>> Parallax micro controllers and servos for aileron/rudder trim ...
>> not for this project, but for the next one down the road.
>>
>> It looks like there are MANY small hobby servos out there (Futaba)
>> but with many different torque capacities. Can somebody who's been
>> this path before give me a model number that works? These are
>> durable and powerful enough? Probably not a good idea to put them
>> under the cowl to control air flow to oil cooler, etc.?
>>
>> I haven't gotten into it yet, but I'm also wondering how you get
>> the power supply down to 9v for the Stamp board?
>>
>> I know it's easier to just order Van's, etc. but I really like the
>> challenge and learning opportunity.
>>
>> Later, - Lew
>>
>> -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER
>> #40549 Painting done! On with wiring and avionics.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283871#283871
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
Just to close the loop on this, now that I'm in the final stages of fitting
my doors, I'm having to build up the lower edge of the door frame to narrow
the gap between it and the door when it's closed. The sides are pretty good
as-is, and I'm needing to trim a little more off the top.
In short, for anyone who hasn't started working on their canpoy yet, cut
plenty (probably 3/8") outside the scribe lines on the bottom of the cabin
frame.
-Rob
On Fri, May 29, 2009 at 8:43 PM, Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thank you all for the tips. Sounds like I should be reasonably
> conservative for now and expect to cut more later, but not worry about it
> too much. I will now have to go find something else to worry about.
>
> Thanks again..
>
> -Rob
>
> On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 11:56 AM, linn <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>wrote:
>
>> Les, thanks for the note! This morning we glued the pilots door halves
>> together. Attached is picture. You can see the tabs I used to hold the
>> bottom door tight to the fuselage. The door halves fit really well
>> together, and did fit the contour of the fuselage with the exception of the
>> very top where the hinges go. Also, the angle of the two halves was
>> different in the area of the third cleco up where the windshield will be,
>> and I just filled that with epoxy/milled fiber. All in all, the gluing went
>> well, but it was really messy!!!
>>
>> Now comes the trimming/sanding/filling/sanding/contouring .....
>>
>> Passenger door goes together next week!! ... Should be a whole lot easier
>> since I didn't trim the passenger side like the pilot side!!!
>> Linn
>>
>>
>> Les Kearney wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Linn
>>>
>>> I am not sure if I understand your problem about the bottom of the door,
>>> but
>>> if I have got it right there may be a better solution for you.
>>>
>> SNIP!
>>
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Wings
>
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 7
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Hmm, makes me wonder if it would make sense to put an "exhaust" vent in the rear
bulkhead to allow the pressure to equalize like they do with cars.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 9:38 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Flex
Tim Olson wrote:
> I'm intrigued by the reports of "bowing". I've never noticed mine bowing at
all, and they don't flex, either.
I never thought mine bowed either, but last week I took a short flight and took
some pictures of my door.
The pictures are of the door measured at the middle fore-aft about at the back
of your hip. One picture of the door is on the ground. The second is with all
my vents closed flying at 150 KIAS and a 3rd is with all my vents open flying
at 150 KIAS, both at 4500 Ft.
It looks like with the vents closed, I have 1/16 inch bow and at 150 KIAS with
all my vents and freezing my self to death, I have 1/8 inch bow. I have the Rivet
Head Aluminum pins/blocks and it is a tight fit on the ground when closing
the doors.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283878#283878
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/doors150open_314.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/doors150closed_211.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/doorsonground_113.jpg
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
Sorry I wasn't clear... I meant leave about 3/8" extra.
On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 8:34 AM, Jae Chang <jchang@jline.com> wrote:
> Rob... i am a little confused. you say you are having to build up the lower
> edge, but then you say to cut plenty off the lower edge.
>
> Can you explain? I have my doors fitted without seals. I know it's going to
> require more trimming down of the door edge, once i make a decision on the
> type of door seals if any i want. not looking forward to it.
>
> jae
>
> Rob Kochman wrote:
>
>> Just to close the loop on this, now that I'm in the final stages of
>> fitting my doors, I'm having to build up the lower edge of the door frame to
>> narrow the gap between it and the door when it's closed. The sides are
>> pretty good as-is, and I'm needing to trim a little more off the top. In
>> short, for anyone who hasn't started working on their canpoy yet, cut plenty
>> (probably 3/8") outside the scribe lines on the bottom of the cabin frame.
>> -Rob
>>
>> On Fri, May 29, 2009 at 8:43 PM, Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com <mailto:
>> rv10rob@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>> Thank you all for the tips. Sounds like I should be reasonably
>> conservative for now and expect to cut more later, but not worry
>> about it too much. I will now have to go find something else to
>> worry about.
>> Thanks again..
>> -Rob
>>
>> On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 11:56 AM, linn <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net
>> <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>> wrote:
>>
>> Les, thanks for the note! This morning we glued the pilots
>> door halves together. Attached is picture. You can see the
>> tabs I used to hold the bottom door tight to the fuselage.
>> The door halves fit really well together, and did fit the
>> contour of the fuselage with the exception of the very top
>> where the hinges go. Also, the angle of the two halves was
>> different in the area of the third cleco up where the
>> windshield will be, and I just filled that with epoxy/milled
>> fiber. All in all, the gluing went well, but it was really
>> messy!!!
>>
>> Now comes the trimming/sanding/filling/sanding/contouring .....
>>
>> Passenger door goes together next week!! ... Should be a whole
>> lot easier since I didn't trim the passenger side like the
>> pilot side!!!
>> Linn
>>
>>
>> Les Kearney wrote:
>>
>> <kearney@shaw.ca <mailto:kearney@shaw.ca>>
>>
>>
>> Linn
>>
>> I am not sure if I understand your problem about the
>> bottom of the door, but
>> if I have got it right there may be a better solution for
>> you.
>>
>> SNIP!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- Rob Kochman
>> RV-10 Wings
>>
>> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
>> http://kochman.net/N819K
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Rob Kochman
>> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
>> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
>> http://kochman.net/N819K
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 9
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| Subject: | trimming cabin cover door openings |
I'm with you..............I used the scribe line as a guide and ended up wi
th less flange on the bottom of the door than desired. Still trying to det
ermine the best way to solve.
Subject: Re: RV10-List: trimming cabin cover door openings
From: rv10rob@gmail.com
Just to close the loop on this=2C now that I'm in the final stages of fitti
ng my doors=2C I'm having to build up the lower edge of the door frame to n
arrow the gap between it and the door when it's closed. The sides are pret
ty good as-is=2C and I'm needing to trim a little more off the top.
In short=2C for anyone who hasn't started working on their canpoy yet=2C cu
t plenty (probably 3/8") outside the scribe lines on the bottom of the cabi
n frame.
-Rob
On Fri=2C May 29=2C 2009 at 8:43 PM=2C Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com> wrot
e:
Thank you all for the tips. Sounds like I should be reasonably conservativ
e for now and expect to cut more later=2C but not worry about it too much.
I will now have to go find something else to worry about.
Thanks again..
-Rob
On Thu=2C May 28=2C 2009 at 11:56 AM=2C linn <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wr
ote:
Les=2C thanks for the note! This morning we glued the pilots door halves t
ogether. Attached is picture. You can see the tabs I used to hold the bott
om door tight to the fuselage. The door halves fit really well together=2C
and did fit the contour of the fuselage with the exception of the very top
where the hinges go. Also=2C the angle of the two halves was different in
the area of the third cleco up where the windshield will be=2C and I just
filled that with epoxy/milled fiber. All in all=2C the gluing went well=2C
but it was really messy!!!
Now comes the trimming/sanding/filling/sanding/contouring .....
Passenger door goes together next week!! ... Should be a whole lot easier s
ince I didn't trim the passenger side like the pilot side!!!
Linn
Les Kearney wrote:
Linn
I am not sure if I understand your problem about the bottom of the door=2C
but
if I have got it right there may be a better solution for you.
SNIP!
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville=2C WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville=2C WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 10
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John I like the idea of adding some substance to the door in there but forg
ive me but what is a spider foam block?
From: indigoonlatigo@msn.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Door Flex
Now that is good science...Good work.
Thats why I put a spider foam block laminated between the door halves in th
e area shown. It acts like a shear web between the skins. There is a lot of
open air space in that location of the door.
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Flex
> From: gary@wingscc.com
> Date: Thu=2C 28 Jan 2010 19:38:06 -0800
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>> I'm intrigued by the reports of "bowing". I've never noticed mine bowing
at all=2C and they don't flex=2C either.
>
> I never thought mine bowed either=2C but last week I took a short flight
and took some pictures of my door.
> The pictures are of the door measured at the middle fore-aft about at the
back of your hip. One picture of the door is on the ground. The second is
with all my vents closed flying at 150 KIAS and a 3rd is with all my vents
open flying at 150 KIAS=2C both at 4500 Ft.
> It looks like with the vents closed=2C I have 1/16 inch bow and at 150 KI
AS with all my vents and freezing my self to death=2C I have 1/8 inch bow.
I have the Rivet Head Aluminum pins/blocks and it is a tight fit on the gro
und when closing the doors.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> (N2GB Flying)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283878#283878
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/doors150open_314.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/doors150closed_211.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/doorsonground_113.jpg
>
>
> <= Archive Search & Download=2C 7-Day Browse=2C Chat=2C FAQ=2C
> ===================
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
I'm building mine up with epoxy/flox. It's going to take a lot of sanding
and filling to get it to look right. In retrospect, I should have at least
saved the trimmings when I did the initial cut.
-Rob
On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 12:59 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever <
roxianmike@msn.com> wrote:
> I'm with you..............I used the scribe line as a guide and ended
> up with less flange on the bottom of the door than desired. Still trying to
> determine the best way to solve.
>
> ------------------------------
> Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2010 08:22:20 -0800
>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: trimming cabin cover door openings
> From: rv10rob@gmail.com
>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
> Just to close the loop on this, now that I'm in the final stages of
> fitting my doors, I'm having to build up the lower edge of the door frame to
> narrow the gap between it and the door when it's closed. The sides are
> pretty good as-is, and I'm needing to trim a little more off the top.
>
> In short, for anyone who hasn't started working on their canpoy yet, cut
> plenty (probably 3/8") outside the scribe lines on the bottom of the cabin
> frame.
>
> -Rob
>
> On Fri, May 29, 2009 at 8:43 PM, Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Thank you all for the tips. Sounds like I should be reasonably
> conservative for now and expect to cut more later, but not worry about it
> too much. I will now have to go find something else to worry about.
>
> Thanks again..
>
> -Rob
>
> On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 11:56 AM, linn <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>wrote:
>
> Les, thanks for the note! This morning we glued the pilots door halves
> together. Attached is picture. You can see the tabs I used to hold the
> bottom door tight to the fuselage. The door halves fit really well
> together, and did fit the contour of the fuselage with the exception of the
> very top where the hinges go. Also, the angle of the two halves was
> different in the area of the third cleco up where the windshield will be,
> and I just filled that with epoxy/milled fiber. All in all, the gluing went
> well, but it was really messy!!!
>
> Now comes the trimming/sanding/filling/sanding/contouring .....
>
> Passenger door goes together next week!! ... Should be a whole lot easier
> since I didn't trim the passenger side like the pilot side!!!
> Linn
>
>
> Les Kearney wrote:
>
>
> Linn
>
> I am not sure if I understand your problem about the bottom of the door,
> but
> if I have got it right there may be a better solution for you.
>
> SNIP!
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Wings
>
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> *
>
> ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listronics.comww.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV8 Kit for sale |
Bill
Has this project been sold.
if not is there any photos to view.
Cheers Geoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283976#283976
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RV8 Kit for sale |
sold
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rucky
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 3:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV8 Kit for sale
Bill
Has this project been sold.
if not is there any photos to view.
Cheers Geoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283976#283976
Message 14
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Hi
I just got a Bogie-Bar from ACS. I assume that it fits over either end of
the nose gear axle bolt. Is this correct? If so, it seems that the Bogie-Bar
spread is about 1/2" too wide to allow it to seat on the bolt. Am I missing
something here?
Inquiring minds need to know
Cheers
Les
#40643
Message 15
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It fits over the nose wheel fork aluminum block hex bolts that hold the blocks
to the fork
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney@shaw.ca>
Subject: RV10-List: Bogi-Bar
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Message 16
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SXQgZml0cyBvdmVyIHRoZSBib2x0cyB0aGF0IGhvbGQgdGhlIHRyYXBhem9pZCBzaGFwZWQgYWx1
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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT0NCg0KDQo
Message 17
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Rick
Thanks for the info. I looked at the plans but didn't think that would
do as
an attach point. I haven't installed these yet but will soon.
Cheers
Les
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ricksked@cox.net
Sent: January-29-10 6:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bogi-Bar
It fits over the nose wheel fork aluminum block hex bolts that hold the
blocks to the fork
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
_____
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney@shaw.ca>
Subject: RV10-List: Bogi-Bar
Hi
I just = got a Bogie-Bar from ACS. I assume that it fits over
either end
of the nose = gear axle bolt. Is this correct? If so, it seems
that the
Bogie-Bar spread is = about 1/2" too wide to allow it to seat on
the
bolt. Am I missing something here?
Inquiring minds need to know
Cheers
Les
#40643
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=B7~=89=B2,=03g'=D3=D3
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
I did the same thing. Cutting to the scribe line on everything except the bottom
works fine. I'll need to build it back up - but not too much. Dave Saylor gave
me the best advice. Build it back up with flox and use dacron peel ply.
The real question is why we are building an Aluminum airplane and doing so much
plastic work?
John
--------
#40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284000#284000
Message 19
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Hmmmm
Trapazoid. Damn, I wish I paid more attention in geometry class. That's
a 12 sided whatzit isn't it....
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: January-29-10 7:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bogi-Bar
It fits over the bolts that hold the trapazoid shaped aluminum spacers
in. These thread into the sides of the nosewheel fork.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
Sent: Fri Jan 29 17:45:48 2010
Subject: RV10-List: Bogi-Bar
Hi
I just got a Bogie-Bar from ACS. I assume that it fits over either end
of the nose gear axle bolt. Is this correct? If so, it seems that the
Bogie-Bar spread is about 1/2" too wide to allow it to seat on the bolt.
Am I missing something here?
Inquiring minds need to know
Cheers
Les
#40643
=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD,=03g=EF=BD=EF=BD
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
I was thinking it might be an option to build up the door threshold rather
than the door................I have some conern that building up the flange
on the door might be easy to chip or break off later...........it sounds l
ike others are having luck building up the door flange so I guess I will go
that route for now.........ugh
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: trimming cabin cover door openings
> From: johngoodman@earthlink.net
> Date: Fri=2C 29 Jan 2010 18:27:36 -0800
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
>
> I did the same thing. Cutting to the scribe line on everything except the
bottom works fine. I'll need to build it back up - but not too much. Dave
Saylor gave me the best advice. Build it back up with flox and use dacron p
eel ply.
> The real question is why we are building an Aluminum airplane and doing s
o much plastic work?
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB. Engine on=2C wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284000#284000
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
> I was thinking it might be an option to build upthe door threshold rather than
the door................I have some conern thatbuilding upthe flange on the
door might be easy to chip or break offlater...........it sounds likeothers are
having luck building up the door flange so Iguess I will go that route for now.........ugh
I think we were always talking about the canopy flange, not the door.
--------
#40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284005#284005
Message 22
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TG9sLi4uLnRyaWFuZ2xlIHdpdGggYSBmbGF0IHNwb3Qgb24gdGhlIDkwIGRlZ3JlZSBzaWRlLi4u
Lml0cyBwbGVudHkgc3Ryb25nIHRvIHRvdyB0aGUgcGxhbmUuLi4uZXZlcnlvbmUga25vd3MgdGhl
IHRyYXBhem9pZCBpcyB1c2VkIGluIHRoZSBiaWcgdG9wIHRvIHN3aW5nIG9uISEhDQpTZW50IHZp
YSBCbGFja0JlcnJ5IGJ5IEFUJlQNCg0KLS0tLS1PcmlnaW5hbCBNZXNzYWdlLS0tLS0NCkZyb206
ICJMZXMgS2Vhcm5leSIgPGtlYXJuZXlAc2hhdy5jYT4NCkRhdGU6IEZyaSwgMjkgSmFuIDIwMTAg
MTk6MzQ6MzIgDQpUbzogPHJ2MTAtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tPg0KU3ViamVjdDogUkU6IFJW
MTAtTGlzdDogQm9naS1CYXINCg0KVGhpcyBpcyBhIG11bHRpLXBhcnQgbWVzc2FnZSBpbiBNSU1F
IGZvcm1hdC4NCg0K
Message 23
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| Subject: | heat scat tube and fuel valve |
Apparently there are differences in the quick build kits regarding fuel valve bracket
height and scat tube traveling past the valve. If the scat tube is suppose
to go above the valve there is not enough room for mine. Is the scat tube
suppose to go under the fuel valve or does the bracket need to be moved down?
What are others doing?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284020#284020
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve |
If you have an earlier version (fuselage sent before about March 2008) the valve
is relatively high, and does not have an extension shaft. Kits and QB's sent
after that time have the fuel valve mounted lower, rotated 180 degrees, and have
an extension shaft. In either case, the heat SCAT goes above the valve. For
the earlier kits it is necessary to squash the scat somewhat to fit thru. Some
have made fiberglass tubes to channel the air thru this area. I think one of
the reasons for moving the valve lower was to allow more room for the scat.
(Other reasons are to avoid the cross over in tubing, and to allow for a positive
detent in the various positions.)
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284021#284021
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