Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:35 AM - Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve (johngoodman)
2. 07:33 AM - aft wing spar (Chris Hukill)
3. 07:36 AM - Re: Bogi-Bar (Jae Chang)
4. 07:43 AM - Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve (rvdave)
5. 07:50 AM - Re: Re: trimming cabin cover door openings (Roxanne and Mike Lefever)
6. 07:56 AM - Re: Bogi-Bar (Marcus Cooper)
7. 08:01 AM - Re: aft wing spar (ricksked@cox.net)
8. 08:06 AM - Re: Door Flex (orchidman)
9. 08:10 AM - Re: countersunk too deep (JHearnsberger)
10. 08:31 AM - Re: Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve (Tim Olson)
11. 08:44 AM - Re: 3d Model (Lenny Iszak)
12. 08:53 AM - Spider foam, door flex issue. (John Gonzalez)
13. 08:54 AM - Re: Re: 3d Model (Jack Phillips)
14. 09:05 AM - Alternate static--was Door Flex (Dave Saylor)
15. 09:18 AM - Re: Alternate static--was Door Flex (Tim Olson)
16. 09:22 AM - Re: Re: Door Flex (incoming air exhaust) (Marcus Cooper)
17. 12:52 PM - Re: Fuel Valve (Perry, Phil)
18. 01:47 PM - Re: Fuel Valve (Bob Leffler)
19. 02:54 PM - Re: Fuel Valve (Michael Kraus)
20. 03:51 PM - Re: Re: Flap motor rod travel (Chris)
21. 04:36 PM - Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve (rvdave)
22. 05:11 PM - Re: Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve (Tim Olson)
23. 05:33 PM - Re: Alternate static--was Door Flex (orchidman)
24. 06:20 PM - Baffle paint? (John Gonzalez)
25. 06:55 PM - Re: Baffle paint? (Linn Walters)
26. 07:01 PM - Three Blade MT Propeller (Roxanne and Mike Lefever)
27. 07:48 PM - Re: Re: Alternate static--was Door Flex (Tim Olson)
28. 07:50 PM - Re: Three Blade MT Propeller (ricksked@cox.net)
29. 08:28 PM - Re: Baffle paint? (Carl Froehlich)
30. 09:05 PM - Re: Three Blade MT Propeller (Michael Kraus)
31. 11:04 PM - Re: Three Blade MT Propeller (Don McDonald)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve |
I mentally struggled with that for a long time. Then I bought an Andair, placed
it a little more forward, used Bonaco steel braided hoses, and there was plenty
of room.
John
--------
#40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284032#284032
Message 2
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I have tried and tried to find mention in the plans for the procedure
for countersinking or dimpling the aft spar flange for the lower skin. I
called Vans and was told to do it using standard procedures which was to
dimple, then countersink to get the required amount of depth to accept
the skins. I was also told that the plans don't specify that procedure
for the QB, because back in the plans where the other skins are attached
in the Philippines, that procedure is specified, and I am supposed to
review all that previous work, step by step, as I'm the manufacturer,
not some QB'er. I humbly agreed, and went back AGAIN to review the wing
plans step by step, and still couldn't find it (it's probably there, I
just couldn't find it). Anyway, I don't remember ever using that
procedure, dimple then countersink, on this project or the RV8 I built.
Reviewing chapter 5, we're told to dimple up to a certain thickness,
then beyond that , countersink, just as I remember. Screw it, I'll drill
out a QB installed rivet on the inboard skin, and see what they did.
Viola, it's countersunk, just as what I'd expect. So that's what I plan
on doing to the rest of this .060 spar flange, countersink it. Anyone
have any info on this, that I can't find.
Chris Hukill
Frustrated, but at least not covered in fiberglass dust.
Message 3
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http://picasaweb.google.com/jchang10/Sec48GearLegAndWheelFairings?feat=directlink
There is a picture of mine and a little mod that was necessary for me to
do. While on the ground, I couldn't hold everything in alignment to fit
the bolt thru, otherwise.
Jae
40533
ricksked@cox.net wrote:
> =EF=BB Lol....triangle with a flat spot on the 90 degree
> side....its plenty strong to tow the plane....everyone knows the
> trapazoid is used in the big top to swing
> on!!!i0fr((nbxm-&j',rr&*''k{w/tml
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve |
I can fit the scat tubing under the valve and between the fuel lines, I've got
to believe others have done that with earlier kits, could or would there be a
condition for vapor lock, is that the issue?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284041#284041
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: trimming cabin cover door openings |
Got it. Thanks John
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: trimming cabin cover door openings
> From: johngoodman@earthlink.net
> Date: Fri=2C 29 Jan 2010 18:44:58 -0800
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
>
>
> > I was thinking it might be an option to build up=EF=BDthe door thres
hold rather than the door................I have some conern that=EF=BDbu
ilding up=EF=BDthe flange on the door might be easy to chip or break off
=EF=BDlater...........it sounds like=EF=BDothers are having luck buil
ding up the door flange so I=EF=BDguess I will go that route for now....
.....ugh
>
>
> I think we were always talking about the canopy flange=2C not the door.
>
> --------
> #40572 QB. Engine on=2C wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284005#284005
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 6
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Jae, great idea to keep things together, I usually spend way too much time with
those parts. Looks like something for the to-do list on the next annual.
One lesson learned with the tow bars. While flying without wheel pants I let a
lineboy move the airplane. He put the tow bar through one of the aft holes in
the fork successfully shearing the valve stem as he moved the airplane. I don't
let anyone touch it anymore, even with the wheel pants on.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jae Chang
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 10:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bogi-Bar
http://picasaweb.google.com/jchang10/Sec48GearLegAndWheelFairings?feat=directlink
There is a picture of mine and a little mod that was necessary for me to
do. While on the ground, I couldn't hold everything in alignment to fit
the bolt thru, otherwise.
Jae
40533
ricksked@cox.net wrote:
> =EF=BB Lol....triangle with a flat spot on the 90 degree
> side....its plenty strong to tow the plane....everyone knows the
> trapazoid is used in the big top to swing
> on!!!i0fr((nbxm
&j',rr&*''k{w/tml
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: aft wing spar |
YOU'RE not covered in YOUR fiberglass dust....I'm covered i
n YOUR fiberglass dust!!! :)
Rick Sked
N246RS
Do not archive
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: aft wing spar
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Message 8
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msausen wrote:
> Hmm, makes me wonder if it would make sense to put an "exhaust" vent in the rear
bulkhead to allow the pressure to equalize like they do with cars.
> Michael
> --
I have also wondered about just how in-coming air is exhausted. I can think of
many routes for the air to get out but now at least on my AC, I now know they
are not as effective as 2 of Steins big vents. And I guess I should note that
I didn't open up the 4 little ones in the overhead console. It was cold enough
just opening up the 2 big front ones for a couple minutes.
This brings up another point. For those who have alternate static ports inside
the cabin, have you tested them and under what conditions? Looks like you will
need to note the conditions and results with your tests.
Is all of this opening a can of worms or what [Mr. Green]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284046#284046
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: countersunk too deep |
thank you
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284047#284047
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve |
Yes, keep that line away from fuel lines. That SCAT
tube gets hot enough that the seat frame around it
gets hot enough to burn your skin if you touch it.
If you use rear seat heat, you will definitely have
hot metal in the area. I have insulated my SCAT
tubing further to prevent that heat from getting
out anywhere but the exit vent as much as possible.
There is a LOT of heat there.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
rvdave wrote:
>
> I can fit the scat tubing under the valve and between the fuel lines, I've got
to believe others have done that with earlier kits, could or would there be
a condition for vapor lock, is that the issue?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284041#284041
>
>
Message 11
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BTW, would someone be able to run a CFD plot on a 3D model of the RV-10?
It would be very interesting to see why the right side door is getting sucked out
more than the pilot side, and also would give a more definite position of side
louvers on the cowling.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284053#284053
Message 12
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| Subject: | Spider foam, door flex issue. |
Message 13
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Does the right side indeed get sucked out more than the left? If so, it is
almost certainly due to the corkscrew nature of the slipstream off the
propeller.
Jack Phillips
# 40610
Wings (Fuel Tanks)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 11:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 3d Model
BTW, would someone be able to run a CFD plot on a 3D model of the RV-10?
It would be very interesting to see why the right side door is getting
sucked out more than the pilot side, and also would give a more definite
position of side louvers on the cowling.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284053#284053
Message 14
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| Subject: | Alternate static--was Door Flex |
I have a story (confession) about alternate static.
I have a "toggle valve" for the alternate static port that just opens the
static system to cabin pressure. I think that's pretty standard.
At some point after test flying, I had the panel apart and managed to put
the toggle in upside down, so "normal" was open to the cabin and "alternate"
was the regular static system.
The result was that everything worked as advertised--airspeed, altimeter,
encoder, all seemed normal enough that I didn't have any reason to suspect
an error. But, when we opened an air vent while using altitude hold, we got
about a 50' climb, then level off and everything normal again. Reverse when
closing the vent. The A/P was seeing higher pressure, equating it to lower
altitude, and correcting.
I was convinced that the vent was upsetting airflow over the elevator trim.
Sometimes I'm really surprised at the lengths my brain will go to in order
to make the pieces of a puzzle fit...
Anyway, the actual problem finally dawned on me, and I turned the toggle
180* to match the normal/alternate labels, and all was well. Duh.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate static--was Door Flex |
I have a toggle too. It's interesting to have the AP engaged and
flip the toggle open-closed-open-closed, and watch the plane
and altimeter/airspeed/vsi.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Dave Saylor wrote:
> I have a story (confession) about alternate static.
>
> I have a "toggle valve" for the alternate static port that just opens
> the static system to cabin pressure. I think that's pretty standard.
>
> At some point after test flying, I had the panel apart and managed to
> put the toggle in upside down, so "normal" was open to the cabin and
> "alternate" was the regular static system.
>
> The result was that everything worked as advertised--airspeed,
> altimeter, encoder, all seemed normal enough that I didn't have any
> reason to suspect an error. But, when we opened an air vent while using
> altitude hold, we got about a 50' climb, then level off and everything
> normal again. Reverse when closing the vent. The A/P was seeing higher
> pressure, equating it to lower altitude, and correcting.
>
> I was convinced that the vent was upsetting airflow over the elevator
> trim. Sometimes I'm really surprised at the lengths my brain will go to
> in order to make the pieces of a puzzle fit...
>
> Anyway, the actual problem finally dawned on me, and I turned the toggle
> 180* to match the normal/alternate labels, and all was well. Duh.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Door Flex (incoming air exhaust) |
I had a thought some time ago about the hot tunnels folks were experiencing
and where I could exhaust some air to help. There's a small opening in the
front of the tunnel cover and I figured I would use that as an inlet and
then I drilled a couple holes in the bottom skin at the back of the tunnel
thinking cockpit air pressurized from the cooling vents would flow through
the tunnel and help a little. Long explanation to get to the point that I
didn't notice any difference. No clue what sort of outside pressure exists
at my exit holes and that could be part of the issue.
On a previous airplane (Q-2) the fuselage was pretty tight so there were a
lot of discussions about the need to create exit holes in the fuselage so
cooling air could actually flow. Seems like there is plenty of air coming
in my cooling vents so I don't think it's much of an issue in the RV-10 (or
perhaps I just built a really leaky airplane).
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 11:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Flex
msausen wrote:
> Hmm, makes me wonder if it would make sense to put an "exhaust" vent in
the rear bulkhead to allow the pressure to equalize like they do with cars.
> Michael
> --
I have also wondered about just how in-coming air is exhausted. I can think
of many routes for the air to get out but now at least on my AC, I now know
they are not as effective as 2 of Steins big vents. And I guess I should
note that I didn't open up the 4 little ones in the overhead console. It
was cold enough just opening up the 2 big front ones for a couple minutes.
This brings up another point. For those who have alternate static ports
inside the cabin, have you tested them and under what conditions? Looks
like you will need to note the conditions and results with your tests.
Is all of this opening a can of worms or what [Mr. Green]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284046#284046
Message 17
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To piggy back on Kelly's question...
I know the part number that most people are using for the Andair valve
is fs20x7...
Question: What extension length is required for the tunnel? And can you
trim down the extension if it's too long? I'm planning on Geoff's panel
an console; if that matters.
Finally, what fittings seem to be the standard? Van's fittings are 1/4"
female on the valve. I'm guessing that's what everyone is using too?
Thanks,
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 9:02 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Valve
Is the Andair still considered the best setup? I understand that Van's
supplied valve is significantly improved from original. Cost vs better
function? Anyone flying with Van's improved valve? Just trying to
asses how many "improvements" I want to do vs time and cost to do
them.
Kelly
40866
QB fuse
Message 18
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I used about 3" of the extension. I have the newer valve location which is
lower than the original location. I ordered the FS20x7-T, which have male
AN-6 fittings. The new elbow fittings make installing the fuel valve much
easier. Also, don't cross the fuel lines per the plans. The andair valve
doesn't require that.
You can see some of my photos here:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rleffler&project=260&cate
gory=0&log-897&row=7 and
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rleffler&project=260&cate
gory=0&log=89805&row=51 .
I'm using Geoff's center arm rest console, so there was some additional
creative engineering that had to be done. If you are installing this as
well, I just finished the install manual and posted them to Geoff's site.
It can be found here: http://aerosportproducts.com/doc.htm If you are just
using Geoff's instrument panel, that doesn't impact the fuel valve
installation.
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 3:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Valve
To piggy back on Kelly's question...
I know the part number that most people are using for the Andair valve
is fs20x7...
Question: What extension length is required for the tunnel? And can you
trim down the extension if it's too long? I'm planning on Geoff's panel
an console; if that matters.
Finally, what fittings seem to be the standard? Van's fittings are 1/4"
female on the valve. I'm guessing that's what everyone is using too?
Thanks,
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 9:02 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Valve
Is the Andair still considered the best setup? I understand that Van's
supplied valve is significantly improved from original. Cost vs better
function? Anyone flying with Van's improved valve? Just trying to
asses how many "improvements" I want to do vs time and cost to do
them.
Kelly
40866
QB fuse
Message 19
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|
I purchased the 6" extension and used about 1/2 of it. It is an
extrusion and yes, you cut it to any length you need then install the
end fittings to mate to the valve and selector.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 30, 2010, at 4:49 PM, "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com> wrote:
>
> I used about 3" of the extension. I have the newer valve location
> which is
> lower than the original location. I ordered the FS20x7-T, which
> have male
> AN-6 fittings. The new elbow fittings make installing the fuel
> valve much
> easier. Also, don't cross the fuel lines per the plans. The andair
> valve
> doesn't require that.
>
> You can see some of my photos here:
> http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rleffler&project=260&cate
> gory=0&log-897&row=7 and
> http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rleffler&project=260&cate
> gory=0&log=89805&row=51 .
>
> I'm using Geoff's center arm rest console, so there was some
> additional
> creative engineering that had to be done. If you are installing
> this as
> well, I just finished the install manual and posted them to Geoff's
> site.
> It can be found here: http://aerosportproducts.com/doc.htm If you
> are just
> using Geoff's instrument panel, that doesn't impact the fuel valve
> installation.
>
> bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
> Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 3:51 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Valve
>
>
> To piggy back on Kelly's question...
>
> I know the part number that most people are using for the Andair valve
> is fs20x7...
>
> Question: What extension length is required for the tunnel? And can
> you
> trim down the extension if it's too long? I'm planning on Geoff's
> panel
> an console; if that matters.
>
>
> Finally, what fittings seem to be the standard? Van's fittings are
> 1/4"
> female on the valve. I'm guessing that's what everyone is using too?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:apilot2@gmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 9:02 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Valve
>
>
> Is the Andair still considered the best setup? I understand that Van's
> supplied valve is significantly improved from original. Cost vs better
> function? Anyone flying with Van's improved valve? Just trying to
> asses how many "improvements" I want to do vs time and cost to do
> them.
> Kelly
> 40866
> QB fuse
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Flap motor rod travel |
Been out of email touch thanks for the replies on this. I pretty much
have
the scheme down it was the movement of the motor from full flaps to
reflex
which I didn=92t know since the wings are not on. Jim says 5 inches so
I=92ll
play with that.
Thanks
Chris
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ricksked@cox.net
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 11:41 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Flap motor rod travel
The sensor IIRC only gets about an inch and a quarter or so of travel
from
stop to stop. By using a horn about 1.5 inches in height you can dial
down
the throw to what you need. The hose clamp makes adjusting the up or
down
full range easy...just need to get the height of the pushrod attachment
to
the horn set to provide the needed travel required of the sensor
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
_____
From: Jim Combs <jiminlexky@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Flap motor rod travel
FYI, The flap motor travels 5 inches for the complete flap
deployment.- <
br>
Jim Combs (N312F)
On Thu, Jan 28, = 2010 at 10:15 AM, Lew Gallagher
<lewgall@charter.net>
wrote:
--> RV10-List = message posted by: "Lew Gallagher"
<lewgall@charter.net>
Hey Chris,
I don't know if this is what you are trying to address, but I've be=
en
meaning to post these pictures in case they help.
The Show Planes positioner places the flaps at preset 3 degrees up,
even, h
alf down and all the way down. -The owner/pilot I'm helping wanted
to= be
able to "see" the position of the flaps on his AFS monitor at= night,
so he
got the slide resistor sensor that feeds into that (I'll = get that
info for
you if you want it, don't have it with me, I think it= is also by Show
Planes).
The trick is to mount it in such a position that it gets full range of
the
flap without exceeding the limits of the sensor -- about 1.25 inches.
-I
kept fiddling with it until I got it close, then made the little
"arm&
quot; you see attached almost to the bottom of the horn. -This way,
the a
rm pivots on the screw so that it increases/decreases the radius of arch
--
hence increases/decreases the fine adjustment of the throw on the
sensor.
-I made the connecting rod out of hobby shop servo connecting rod.
-Dou
ble sided tape is a good idea for getting the sensor at the right height
an
d angle -- I just fiddled with ours.
It was very difficult to drill that hole on the horn while it is
installed
because of the position and it is hardened -- broke more than one bit.
-I
f that is what you are dealing with before you install it, I think that
is
a smart thing to do! - That pivot hole is as low as I could go and
still
get a nut on the backside where the flange comes into the hub.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D283763#283763<= /a>
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/flap_sensor1_medium_68= 0.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/flap_sensor2_medium_19= 6.jpg
arget=3D"_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
=3D"_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=B7~=89=B2,
_____
g'=D3=D3
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve |
Thanks Tim, what did you do with your scat tube and fuel valve since you had an
earlier kit?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284101#284101
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: heat scat tube and fuel valve |
I used a lowered and extended Andair....the most common fix.
Tim
On Jan 30, 2010, at 6:32 PM, "rvdave" <davidbf@centurytel.net> wrote:
>
> Thanks Tim, what did you do with your scat tube and fuel valve since
> you had an earlier kit?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284101#284101
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate static--was Door Flex |
Tim Olson wrote:
> I have a toggle too. It's interesting to have the AP engaged and
> flip the toggle open-closed-open-closed, and watch the plane
> and altimeter/airspeed/vsi.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
I am curious, what happens when you open/close the vents. From my experiences,
it does look like we are getting a fair amount of cabin pressurization when opening
our vents.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284105#284105
Message 24
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Are builders painting their baffles. Is so=2C is a special primer/ paint ne
eded to withstand the high temperatures or can a normal PPG DP 50 primer wo
rk? The paint that is on the lycoming sure comes off easily.
Seems like just alodining will mean re application as getting these pieces
on and off without scratching is nearly imposible.
Thanks
JOhn
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Baffle paint? |
Urethane with a properly prepped aluminum should work just fine.
Linn
John Gonzalez wrote:
> Are builders painting their baffles. Is so, is a special primer/ paint
> needed to withstand the high temperatures or can a normal PPG DP 50
> primer work? The paint that is on the lycoming sure comes off easily.
>
> Seems like just alodining will mean re application as getting these
> pieces on and off without scratching is nearly imposible.
>
> Thanks
>
> JOhn
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 26
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| Subject: | Three Blade MT Propeller |
Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is the opinio
n of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about 50%more expensive?
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate static--was Door Flex |
I'll let you know this summer when I open my vents. ;). Got up to 14F
today.
Tim
On Jan 30, 2010, at 7:29 PM, "orchidman" <gary@wingscc.com> wrote:
>
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>> I have a toggle too. It's interesting to have the AP engaged and
>> flip the toggle open-closed-open-closed, and watch the plane
>> and altimeter/airspeed/vsi.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>
>
> I am curious, what happens when you open/close the vents. From my
> experiences, it does look like we are getting a fair amount of cabin
> pressurization when opening our vents.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> (N2GB Flying)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284105#284105
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Three Blade MT Propeller |
Little slower, looks very cool and as smooth as Deem's
bottom!
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if
so what is the opinion of this set up versus the H
artzell which is about 50%more expensive?
Message 29
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I used PPG DP-40LF and a single stage top coat on my 8A. The baffles look
just like the day I painted them 8 years ago. I'll do the same on the 10.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 9:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Baffle paint?
Are builders painting their baffles. Is so, is a special primer/ paint
needed to withstand the high temperatures or can a normal PPG DP 50 primer
work? The paint that is on the lycoming sure comes off easily.
Seems like just alodining will mean re application as getting these pieces
on and off without scratching is nearly imposible.
Thanks
JOhn
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Three Blade MT Propeller |
I have a MT, but not flying yet. Bought it because it is
smoooooth..... Wish I hadn't because it makes taking the lower cowl
off a biotch..... Since the blended airfoil Hartzell is faster and
makes the cowl infinitely easier to get off, I wish I'd have purchased
it....
That is just my opinion.....
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 30, 2010, at 9:54 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com
> wrote:
> Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is the
> opinion of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about 50%more
> expensive?
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Three Blade MT Propeller |
Now I'm concerned.... wondering how Rick knows about Deem's bottom.... then
why Deem's would get involved in any thing like that....=C2- Oh crap, I'
m flying down to Vegas in Feb and am staying in Ricks hangar while we atten
d the NASCAR race "together", and then we're flying down to visit Deems....
. this simply does not sound good!!!!!!!!!!!!
=C2-
On a serious note.... I love my MT... very smooth, and certainly fast.=C2
- Climbout the other day=C2-with 2 big boys on board was over 2,140 fpm
, and most of the time we cruise between 170 and 184 knots, at between 9.5
and 10.2 gph.=C2- Ran with a Cirrus the other day; we were both=C2-at 4
500' at 25sq, 200mph.
=C2-
But what the hell do I know.
=C2-
Don McDonald=C2-
--- On Sat, 1/30/10, ricksked@cox.net <ricksked@cox.net> wrote:
From: ricksked@cox.net <ricksked@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Little slower, looks very cool and as smooth as Deem's bottom!
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
From: Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Three Blade MT Propeller
Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is the opinio
= n of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about 50%more expensive?
= =
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