Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:01 AM - Re: The joy's of being a Grandpa and having an RV10 (Lew Gallagher)
2. 06:44 AM - Vans conduit again (Billy & Tami Britton)
3. 07:09 AM - Re: Vans conduit again (tsts4)
4. 07:40 AM - Contactor question (johngoodman)
5. 07:48 AM - Re: Vans conduit again (Bob Leffler)
6. 07:57 AM - Re: Vans conduit again (Fred Williams, M.D.)
7. 09:54 AM - looking for partnership (Sean Garrison)
8. 09:54 AM - Re: Vans conduit again (Marcus Cooper)
9. 10:18 AM - Re: Contactor question (Bob Turner)
10. 10:49 AM - Silver Hawk O-ring (Sheldon Olesen)
11. 12:08 PM - Re: Vans conduit again (Michael Kraus)
12. 12:55 PM - Re: Vans conduit again (Linn Walters)
13. 01:54 PM - Re: Vans conduit again (Billy & Tami Britton)
14. 01:59 PM - Silver Hawk O-ring (Sheldon Olesen)
15. 02:00 PM - Re: Silver Hawk O-ring (Kelly McMullen)
16. 02:00 PM - Re: The joy's of being a Grandpa and having an RV10 (Jeff Carpenter)
17. 04:04 PM - Re: Silver Hawk O-ring (Rhonda Bewley)
18. 04:04 PM - Re: Vans conduit again (Linn Walters)
19. 05:04 PM - Re: Vans conduit again (ricksked@cox.net)
20. 06:01 PM - Re: Silver Hawk O-ring (Rick)
21. 07:22 PM - Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Robin Marks)
22. 07:30 PM - Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Seano)
23. 07:30 PM - Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (johngoodman)
24. 07:44 PM - Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Tim Olson)
25. 08:20 PM - Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (DLM)
26. 08:42 PM - Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Don McDonald)
27. 09:38 PM - Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Linn Walters)
28. 09:42 PM - Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Rob Kochman)
29. 10:07 PM - Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Robin Marks)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: The joy's of being a Grandpa and having an RV10 |
Hey Deems,
The softer side of pounding rivets ... I love it!
Gotta be a therapist in your family somewhere!
Later, - Lew "therapist for 35 yrs." Gallagher
do not archive
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284695#284695
Message 2
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| Subject: | Vans conduit again |
After following the discussion in the last couple weeks on the Vans
conduit I decided to go that route and ordered some. I do have a couple
quick questions though. (By the way, I'm not sure how to search
archives so if these have been answered previously I apologize).
First, where did you run it in the wing. I assume the place to put it
is in the holes that were drilled to 5/8" for the snap bushings. If so,
these holes need drilled to 3/4" for the conduit, correct? Do we need
snap bushings or what keeps the conduit from chafing on the ribs ( maybe
it fits tight enough that that's not an issue??)?
Finally, I've already got my ribs riveted to front and rear spars. Any
quick suggestions how to drill the #2, 3 ribs to 3/4"? If you recall
the inside 4 ribs are pretty close so there's not much room to get a
step drill bit in there on a conventional drill.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Vans conduit again |
Bill,
No grommet is required as the corrugations will hold the conduit in-place, sort
of like the whole thing was one really long grommet. Some place a little dab
of RTV or proseal at the conduit/rib interface to insure it doesn't move around.
As for enlarging the tooling hole in those 2 inboard ribs, one solution would be
to draw a 3/4 inch diameter circle around the tooling hole. Then using a angle
drill adapter, drill around the inner circumference at as many locations as
you can, then use a file or nibbler to "connect the dots".
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284716#284716
Message 4
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| Subject: | Contactor question |
I've got a couple of continuous duty contactors from Spruce that have the single
small post. When I installed them in a tight place, it was recommended that
the cap side be placed down, which makes it look upside down to me. Anyway, I'm
stumped by which side should have the hot wire. I believe it's the one closest
to the small post. If power is on the other side, what happens? Will the contactor
still close? Is reverse flow a bad thing?
John
--------
#40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284721#284721
Message 5
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| Subject: | Vans conduit again |
Yes, I just opened the 5/8=94 holes up to =BE=94 and the conduit fits
pretty
tight. I also added a dab of rtv to ensure it doesn=92t move.
I drilled my holes before I assembled the wing, so the clearances
weren=92t an
issue to me.
Two options that may work:
1. Get an extension that can accommodate your unibit. Run it
straight through all the ribs in the wing walk area.
2. Use a knockout punch. Home Depot and Lowes have them, but
they
aren=92t cheap. Harbor Freight has a set
(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91201
),
which I picked on sale for $10. You=92ll have to hand center and
tighten
since your hole is already greater than =BC=94.
This subject will come up again on the fuselage depending on where you
locate your wiring. You=92ll most likely will need to cut holes in the
ribs
under the back seat as well.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami
Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 9:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Vans conduit again
After following the discussion in the last couple weeks on the Vans
conduit
I decided to go that route and ordered some. I do have a couple quick
questions though. (By the way, I'm not sure how to search archives so
if
these have been answered previously I apologize).
First, where did you run it in the wing. I assume the place to put it
is
in the holes that were drilled to 5/8" for the snap bushings. If so,
these
holes need drilled to 3/4" for the conduit, correct? Do we need snap
bushings or what keeps the conduit from chafing on the ribs ( maybe it
fits
tight enough that that's not an issue??)?
Finally, I've already got my ribs riveted to front and rear spars. Any
quick suggestions how to drill the #2, 3 ribs to 3/4"? If you recall
the
inside 4 ribs are pretty close so there's not much room to get a step
drill
bit in there on a conventional drill.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Vans conduit again |
If I remember correctly, I got an extension from home depot and drilled
thru each hole. Had to remove the step bit each time, but it worked
ok. Then deburr the holes.
Dr Fred.
Billy & Tami Britton wrote:
> After following the discussion in the last couple weeks on the Vans
> conduit I decided to go that route and ordered some. I do have a
> couple quick questions though. (By the way, I'm not sure how to
> search archives so if these have been answered previously I apologize).
>
> First, where did you run it in the wing. I assume the place to put
> it is in the holes that were drilled to 5/8" for the snap bushings.
> If so, these holes need drilled to 3/4" for the conduit, correct? Do
> we need snap bushings or what keeps the conduit from chafing on the
> ribs ( maybe it fits tight enough that that's not an issue??)?
>
> Finally, I've already got my ribs riveted to front and rear spars.
> Any quick suggestions how to drill the #2, 3 ribs to 3/4"? If you
> recall the inside 4 ribs are pretty close so there's not much room to
> get a step drill bit in there on a conventional drill.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Bill
>
> do not archive
> *
>
>
> *
Message 7
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| Subject: | looking for partnership |
If anyone has a RV10 that is looking for a partner near
KFPR-KSUA-KVRB-F45-X26. Please email me back. I wanted to build but I am
finding that I will not have the time required to complete a project.
Sean Garrison
772-618-0468
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
Database version: 6.14270
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
Message 8
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| Subject: | Vans conduit again |
Bill,
On all 3 of my RV projects I opted for PVC pipe, but the installation
method would work for you as well. I just suspended it in the large factory
holes in the ribs with safety wire attached to the rib above and below the
pipe. I would get it started in one small hole, twist to about the middle
and wrap the wire around the pipe then continue the twist and tie off at a
small hole on the other side of the rib opening (hope that makes sense).
Might be a more elegant method to attach it, but it was cheap and easy and
has worked great so far.
Marcus
40286
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami
Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 9:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Vans conduit again
After following the discussion in the last couple weeks on the Vans conduit
I decided to go that route and ordered some. I do have a couple quick
questions though. (By the way, I'm not sure how to search archives so if
these have been answered previously I apologize).
First, where did you run it in the wing. I assume the place to put it is
in the holes that were drilled to 5/8" for the snap bushings. If so, these
holes need drilled to 3/4" for the conduit, correct? Do we need snap
bushings or what keeps the conduit from chafing on the ribs ( maybe it fits
tight enough that that's not an issue??)?
Finally, I've already got my ribs riveted to front and rear spars. Any
quick suggestions how to drill the #2, 3 ribs to 3/4"? If you recall the
inside 4 ribs are pretty close so there's not much room to get a step drill
bit in there on a conventional drill.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Contactor question |
The relay coil is internally wired to the Battery connection (the small post is
grounded to complete the circuit) so it will only work one way. (No harm in reverse
flow of the main current, that happens during battery charge; but the relay
won't work if it's backwards.
Put an ohmmeter on the small post; the resistance to the battery terminal will
be finite (maybe a few hundred ohms), the resistance to the other terminal will
be infinite.
If the contactor is mounted upside down and its spring fails, the unit will be
stuck "on". I think that's the only downside of mounting it inverted. For starter
contactors people likewise worry that a high positive g maneuver might overpower
the spring and energize the starter if it's upside down. I have no idea
how many g's that takes.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284737#284737
Message 10
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| Subject: | Silver Hawk O-ring |
I want to check the inlet filter on my Silver Hawk fuel injector.
Removing the filter involves an o-ring that is supposed to be
replaced. Penn Yann Aero has the o-rings (part # 951789-V) for
$8 plus shipping. It seems kind pricey for an o-ring. Anyone know
of a cheaper source?
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 131 hours
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Vans conduit again |
I used a 3/4" unibit and a combination of 0 to 2 extensions and added
holes after the wings were completed. Took a little doing, but worked
out great.
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 3, 2010, at 10:43 AM, "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com> wrote:
> Yes, I just opened the 5/8=9D holes up to =C2=BE=9D and
the conduit fits
> pretty tight. I also added a dab of rtv to ensure it doesn=99t
move.
>
>
> I drilled my holes before I assembled the wing, so the clearances
> weren=99t an issue to me.
>
>
> Two options that may work:
>
>
> 1. Get an extension that can accommodate your unibit. Run
> it straight through all the ribs in the wing walk area.
>
> 2. Use a knockout punch. Home Depot and Lowes have them, but
> they aren=99t cheap. Harbor Freight has a set
(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=912
> 01), which I picked on sale for $10. You=99ll have to hand
center an
> d tighten since your hole is already greater than =C2=BC=9D.
>
>
> This subject will come up again on the fuselage depending on where
> you locate your wiring. You=99ll most likely will need to cut
holes
> in the ribs under the back seat as well.
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami Britton
> Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 9:25 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Vans conduit again
>
>
> After following the discussion in the last couple weeks on the Vans
> conduit I decided to go that route and ordered some. I do have a
> couple quick questions though. (By the way, I'm not sure how to
> search archives so if these have been answered previously I
> apologize).
>
>
> First, where did you run it in the wing. I assume the place to put
> it is in the holes that were drilled to 5/8" for the snap bushings.
> If so, these holes need drilled to 3/4" for the conduit, correct?
> Do we need snap bushings or what keeps the conduit from chafing on
> the ribs ( maybe it fits tight enough that that's not an issue??)?
>
>
> Finally, I've already got my ribs riveted to front and rear spars.
> Any quick suggestions how to drill the #2, 3 ribs to 3/4"? If you
> recall the inside 4 ribs are pretty close so there's not much room
> to get a step drill bit in there on a conventional drill.
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Vans conduit again |
More elegant are the plastic hangars from Home depot .... in the
plumbing section.
I think the safety wire may eat through the rib over time. But what do
I know?
I got the idea from someone else on a list ......
Linn
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> Bill,
>
> On all 3 of my RV projects I opted for PVC pipe, but the
> installation method would work for you as well. I just suspended it in
> the large factory holes in the ribs with safety wire attached to the rib
> above and below the pipe. I would get it started in one small hole,
> twist to about the middle and wrap the wire around the pipe then
> continue the twist and tie off at a small hole on the other side of the
> rib opening (hope that makes sense). Might be a more elegant method to
> attach it, but it was cheap and easy and has worked great so far.
>
>
>
> Marcus
>
> 40286
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Billy &
> Tami Britton
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 03, 2010 9:25 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Vans conduit again
>
>
>
> After following the discussion in the last couple weeks on the Vans
> conduit I decided to go that route and ordered some. I do have a couple
> quick questions though. (By the way, I'm not sure how to search
> archives so if these have been answered previously I apologize).
>
>
>
> First, where did you run it in the wing. I assume the place to put it
> is in the holes that were drilled to 5/8" for the snap bushings. If so,
> these holes need drilled to 3/4" for the conduit, correct? Do we need
> snap bushings or what keeps the conduit from chafing on the ribs ( maybe
> it fits tight enough that that's not an issue??)?
>
>
>
> Finally, I've already got my ribs riveted to front and rear spars. Any
> quick suggestions how to drill the #2, 3 ribs to 3/4"? If you recall
> the inside 4 ribs are pretty close so there's not much room to get a
> step drill bit in there on a conventional drill.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> do not archive
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Vans conduit again |
Thanks guys. I'll be to town later this week. I'll try to find a drill
bit extension for my unibit. Any particular kind of RTV or will any
kind work --none of it is harmful to the aluminum is it?
Bill
Do Not Archive
From: Michael Kraus
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Vans conduit again
I used a 3/4" unibit and a combination of 0 to 2 extensions and added
holes after the wings were completed. Took a little doing, but worked
out great.
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 3, 2010, at 10:43 AM, "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com> wrote:
Yes, I just opened the 5/8=9D holes up to =C2=BE=9D and
the conduit fits pretty tight. I also added a dab of rtv to ensure it
doesn=99t move.
I drilled my holes before I assembled the wing, so the clearances
weren=99t an issue to me.
Two options that may work:
1. Get an extension that can accommodate your unibit. Run it
straight through all the ribs in the wing walk area.
2. Use a knockout punch. Home Depot and Lowes have them, but
they aren=99t cheap. Harbor Freight has a set
(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91201
), which I picked on sale for $10. You=99ll have to hand center
and tighten since your hole is already greater than =C2=BC=9D.
This subject will come up again on the fuselage depending on where you
locate your wiring. You=99ll most likely will need to cut holes
in the ribs under the back seat as well.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami
Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 9:25 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Vans conduit again
After following the discussion in the last couple weeks on the Vans
conduit I decided to go that route and ordered some. I do have a couple
quick questions though. (By the way, I'm not sure how to search
archives so if these have been answered previously I apologize).
First, where did you run it in the wing. I assume the place to put
it is in the holes that were drilled to 5/8" for the snap bushings. If
so, these holes need drilled to 3/4" for the conduit, correct? Do we
need snap bushings or what keeps the conduit from chafing on the ribs (
maybe it fits tight enough that that's not an issue??)?
Finally, I've already got my ribs riveted to front and rear spars.
Any quick suggestions how to drill the #2, 3 ribs to 3/4"? If you
recall the inside 4 ribs are pretty close so there's not much room to
get a step drill bit in there on a conventional drill.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
do not archive
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
Message 14
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| Subject: | Silver Hawk O-ring |
I want to check the inlet filter on my Silver Hawk fuel injector.
Removing the filter involves an o-ring that is supposed to be
replaced. Penn Yann Aero has the o-rings (part # 951789-V) for
$8 plus shipping. It seems kind pricey for an o-ring. Anyone know
of a cheaper source?
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 131 hours
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Silver Hawk O-ring |
If you are careful, you should not damage the O-ring. It is a blue
fluorosilicone. Normally changed once a year at annual. Any Mooney
service center should have them, since all the 200hp Mooneys use the
same injection(with Bendix or Precision nameplate)
On Wed, Feb 3, 2010 at 11:29 AM, Sheldon Olesen <saolesen@sirentel.net> wrote:
>
> I want to check the inlet filter on my Silver Hawk fuel injector. Removing
> the filter involves an o-ring that is supposed to be replaced. Penn Yann
> Aero has the o-rings (part # 951789-V) for $8 plus shipping. It seems
> kind pricey for an o-ring. Anyone know of a cheaper source?
>
> Sheldon Olesen
> N475PV 131 hours
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: The joy's of being a Grandpa and having an RV10 |
I'm hoping for the same kind or reaction from my wife and kids...
What a joy!
On Feb 2, 2010, at 4:45 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
> When I started out to build my plane, it was all about me, and
> pursuing a lifelong dream. A funny thing happened on the way to the
> forum......
> I saw this today posted on my daughters Blog. http://ttryons.blogspot.com/
> (read Christmas Review - Airplane Ride)
>
> Yup, I'm a happy pappy!
>
> Deems Davis
> N519PJ
> www.deemsrv10.com
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Silver Hawk O-ring |
I think that Precision Airmotive will provide you one free of charge,
plus freight if you give them a call. It would certainly be worth the
phone call to see.
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sheldon
Olesen
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 12:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Silver Hawk O-ring
I want to check the inlet filter on my Silver Hawk fuel injector.
Removing the filter involves an o-ring that is supposed to be
replaced. Penn Yann Aero has the o-rings (part # 951789-V) for
$8 plus shipping. It seems kind pricey for an o-ring. Anyone know
of a cheaper source?
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 131 hours
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Vans conduit again |
Well, some is. Smell it. If it has a strong odor like vinegar, it has
acetic acid in it. You might take a look at this email
http://yarchive.net/electr/silicone_sealant_corrosiveness.html
for a discussion ..... Google found it under 'silicone acetic acid'.
Linn
do not archive
Billy & Tami Britton wrote:
> Thanks guys. I'll be to town later this week. I'll try to find a drill
> bit extension for my unibit. Any particular kind of RTV or will any
> kind work --none of it is harmful to the aluminum is it?
>
> Bill
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> *From:* Michael Kraus <mailto:n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 03, 2010 12:21 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Vans conduit again
>
> I used a 3/4" unibit and a combination of 0 to 2 extensions and added
> holes after the wings were completed. Took a little doing, but worked
> out great.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 3, 2010, at 10:43 AM, "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com
> <mailto:rv@thelefflers.com>> wrote:
>
>> Yes, I just opened the 5/8 holes up to and the conduit fits pretty
>> tight. I also added a dab of rtv to ensure it doesnt move.
>>
>>
>>
>> I drilled my holes before I assembled the wing, so the clearances
>> werent an issue to me.
>>
>>
>>
>> Two options that may work:
>>
>>
>>
>> 1. Get an extension that can accommodate your unibit. Run it
>> straight through all the ribs in the wing walk area.
>>
>> 2. Use a knockout punch. Home Depot and Lowes have them, but
>> they arent cheap. Harbor Freight has a set (
>> <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91201>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91201),
>> which I picked on sale for $10. Youll have to hand center and
>> tighten since your hole is already greater than .
>>
>>
>>
>> This subject will come up again on the fuselage depending on where you
>> locate your wiring. Youll most likely will need to cut holes in the
>> ribs under the back seat as well.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Billy &
>> Tami Britton
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 03, 2010 9:25 AM
>> *To:* <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>rv10-list@matronics.com
>> <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Vans conduit again
>>
>>
>>
>> After following the discussion in the last couple weeks on the Vans
>> conduit I decided to go that route and ordered some. I do have a
>> couple quick questions though. (By the way, I'm not sure how to
>> search archives so if these have been answered previously I apologize).
>>
>>
>>
>> First, where did you run it in the wing. I assume the place to put
>> it is in the holes that were drilled to 5/8" for the snap bushings.
>> If so, these holes need drilled to 3/4" for the conduit, correct? Do
>> we need snap bushings or what keeps the conduit from chafing on the
>> ribs ( maybe it fits tight enough that that's not an issue??)?
>>
>>
>>
>> Finally, I've already got my ribs riveted to front and rear spars.
>> Any quick suggestions how to drill the #2, 3 ribs to 3/4"? If you
>> recall the inside 4 ribs are pretty close so there's not much room to
>> get a step drill bit in there on a conventional drill.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>> * *
>> * *
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>> **
>> * *
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
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Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Vans conduit again |
Even better, forgo the conduit and install 3/4" snap bushings and fabricate a wiring
harness with heat shrink "keepers" every two foot or so The harness can
be pulled if needed and you can install a few spare wires for peace of mind for
future use. I was helping a friend run his wing wiring the past few days and
I liked this method much better than the conduit that I used. If I would do
it again, which I am, this is much better IMHO.
Rick S.
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Vans conduit again
Well, some is. Smell it. If it has a strong odor like vinegar, it has
acetic acid in it. You might take a look at this email
http://yarchive.net/electr/silicone_sealant_corrosiveness.html
for a discussion ..... Google found it under 'silicone acetic acid'.
Linn
do not archive
Billy & Tami Britton wrote:
> Thanks guys. I'll be to town later this week. I'll try to find a drill
> bit extension for my unibit. Any particular kind of RTV or will any
> kind work --none of it is harmful to the aluminum is it?
>
> Bill
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> *From:* Michael Kraus <mailto:n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 03, 2010 12:21 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Vans conduit again
>
> I used a 3/4" unibit and a combination of 0 to 2 extensions and added
> holes after the wings were completed. Took a little doing, but worked
> out great.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 3, 2010, at 10:43 AM, "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com
> <mailto:rv@thelefflers.com>> wrote:
>
>> Yes, I just opened the 5/8 holes up to and the conduit fits pretty
>> tight. I also added a dab of rtv to ensure it doesnt move.
>>
>>
>>
>> I drilled my holes before I assembled the wing, so the clearances
>> werent an issue to me.
>>
>>
>>
>> Two options that may work:
>>
>>
>>
>> 1. Get an extension that can accommodate your unibit. Run it
>> straight through all the ribs in the wing walk area.
>>
>> 2. Use a knockout punch. Home Depot and Lowes have them, but
>> they arent cheap. Harbor Freight has a set (
>> <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91201>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91201),
>> which I picked on sale for $10. Youll have to hand center and
>> tighten since your hole is already greater than .
>>
>>
>>
>> This subject will come up again on the fuselage depending on where you
>> locate your wiring. Youll most likely will need to cut holes in the
>> ribs under the back seat as well.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Billy &
>> Tami Britton
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 03, 2010 9:25 AM
>> *To:* <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>rv10-list@matronics.com
>> <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Vans conduit again
>>
>>
>>
>> After following the discussion in the last couple weeks on the Vans
>> conduit I decided to go that route and ordered some. I do have a
>> couple quick questions though. (By the way, I'm not sure how to
>> search archives so if these have been answered previously I apologize).
>>
>>
>>
>> First, where did you run it in the wing. I assume the place to put
>> it is in the holes that were drilled to 5/8" for the snap bushings.
>> If so, these holes need drilled to 3/4" for the conduit, correct? Do
>> we need snap bushings or what keeps the conduit from chafing on the
>> ribs ( maybe it fits tight enough that that's not an issue??)?
>>
>>
>>
>> Finally, I've already got my ribs riveted to front and rear spars.
>> Any quick suggestions how to drill the #2, 3 ribs to 3/4"? If you
>> recall the inside 4 ribs are pretty close so there's not much room to
>> get a step drill bit in there on a conventional drill.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>> * *
>> * *
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>> **
>> * *
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 20
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| Subject: | Silver Hawk O-ring |
$8 pricey??? Gimme a break!! What's your medical insurance copay? Sorry just
pissy I guess...bitching about 8 bucks...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sheldon Olesen
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 10:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Silver Hawk O-ring
I want to check the inlet filter on my Silver Hawk fuel injector.
Removing the filter involves an o-ring that is supposed to be
replaced. Penn Yann Aero has the o-rings (part # 951789-V) for
$8 plus shipping. It seems kind pricey for an o-ring. Anyone know
of a cheaper source?
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 131 hours
Message 21
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| Subject: | Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly
tighten and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?
I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive searches
but when I tried the results were mediocre.
(Note: Matco Axel Installed)
Thanks in advance,
Robin
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
I would speak up but you said "proper"
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 3, 2010, at 20:18, "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com> wrote:
> Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly
> tighten and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?
>
> I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive
> searches but when I tried the results were mediocre.
>
> (Note: Matco Axel Installed)
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Robin
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
Robin,
The problem is the castle nut. It's either too tight, or too loose. I've been advised
to get it as close to the 25 pounds as possible on the tight side- it will
loosen up, I hope.
John
--------
#40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284793#284793
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
I think with that Matco Axle installed it should be pretty
straightforward. For the nut that holds the forks on,
you torque it until it has over 22? lb-ft of breakout force
to get it to swivel....In practice I'd shoot for 25-35 and
be on the high side because it WILL loosen up over the first
couple hundred hours or 2 or 3 years.
Then for the axle, you'd tighten that matco axle into the
bearing about as tight as you can by hand, and then that sets
the preload. After that you could tighten the axle bolt nuts
to standard torque for that size nut if you wish, because
the matco axle is going to keep it from over tightening.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Robin Marks wrote:
> Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly
> tighten and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?
>
> I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive searches
> but when I tried the results were mediocre.
>
> (Note: Matco Axel Installed)
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Robin
>
> *
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
Just be certain that the locking bolt that goes through the fork and spacer
and into the axle clears the wheel pant mounting bracket. I pointed the
potential problem to a buddy who was about to drill the locking hole where
the bracket must go.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork
I think with that Matco Axle installed it should be pretty straightforward.
For the nut that holds the forks on, you torque it until it has over 22?
lb-ft of breakout force to get it to swivel....In practice I'd shoot for
25-35 and be on the high side because it WILL loosen up over the first
couple hundred hours or 2 or 3 years.
Then for the axle, you'd tighten that matco axle into the bearing about as
tight as you can by hand, and then that sets the preload. After that you
could tighten the axle bolt nuts to standard torque for that size nut if you
wish, because the matco axle is going to keep it from over tightening.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Robin Marks wrote:
> Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly
> tighten and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?
>
> I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive searches
> but when I tried the results were mediocre.
>
> (Note: Matco Axel Installed)
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Robin
>
> *
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
Robin, to properly do this you're probably going to need to drill and addit
ional hole in the shaft for the cotter pin.- With only one hole, to align
the cotter pin, each alignment point is 60 degrees apart.- Drill another
hole, making sure it's in between the 2 opennings on the hex nut,-which
will give you the proper alignment every 30 drgrees.- Then follow Tim's p
rocedure.
See ya in a couple of months.
Don McDonald
--- On Wed, 2/3/10, Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com> wrote:
From: Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork
Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly tighten
and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?
I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive searches but w
hen I tried the results were mediocre.
(Note: Matco Axel Installed)
-
Thanks in advance,
Robin
=0A=0A=0A
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
I doubt that drilling a new hole would be very successful unless you had
someway to get the nose strut clamped on your drill press. Proper use
of the belleville washers will eliminate the shimmy .... the back and
forth motion of the nose fork. My experience comes from the Grumman
line which has a similar swiveling nose gear.
There are more than one way of stacking the washers that work. the
'best' stack seems to be two nested washers facing two nested washers
face to face (outside edges to outside edges). You can add motr
bellevelle washers or another flat washer or both .... this is the
experimental part.
Proper tension is 25-35 lbs pull on the wheel axle to make it move sideways.
There's a fine balance between being able to easily drag the plane
around the ramp (or push it back) by the prop and having shimmy problems.
This is all based on the nose fork bushing being vertical and the
rotation plane of the nose fork parallel to the ground.
Hope this helps. Someday I will have to address the same issue, I'm sure.
Linn
Don McDonald wrote:
> Robin, to properly do this you're probably going to need to drill and
> additional hole in the shaft for the cotter pin. With only one hole, to
> align the cotter pin, each alignment point is 60 degrees apart. Drill
> another hole, making sure it's in between the 2 opennings on the hex
> nut, which will give you the proper alignment every 30 drgrees. Then
> follow Tim's procedure.
> See ya in a couple of months.
> Don McDonald
>
> --- On *Wed, 2/3/10, Robin Marks /<robin1@mrmoisture.com>/* wrote:
>
>
> From: Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, February 3, 2010, 7:18 PM
>
> Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly
> tighten and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?
>
> I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive
> searches but when I tried the results were mediocre.
>
> (Note: Matco Axel Installed)
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Robin
>
> *
>
> get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> =nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
> blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
D'oh! Wish I'd read this before I drilled my hole, 2 days ago. I just
checked and will need to cut the bracket back a little, but shouldn't be a
big deal.
For archive purposes, for those installing the Matco axle before the wheel
pants, read ahead to Page 48-17 Step 2 to ensure the U-1013C bracket will
clear the hole you drill.
-Rob
On Wed, Feb 3, 2010 at 8:17 PM, DLM <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
>
>
> Just be certain that the locking bolt that goes through the fork and spacer
> and into the axle clears the wheel pant mounting bracket. I pointed the
> potential problem to a buddy who was about to drill the locking hole where
> the bracket must go.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 8:41 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork
>
>
> I think with that Matco Axle installed it should be pretty straightforward.
> For the nut that holds the forks on, you torque it until it has over 22?
> lb-ft of breakout force to get it to swivel....In practice I'd shoot for
> 25-35 and be on the high side because it WILL loosen up over the first
> couple hundred hours or 2 or 3 years.
>
> Then for the axle, you'd tighten that matco axle into the bearing about as
> tight as you can by hand, and then that sets the preload. After that you
> could tighten the axle bolt nuts to standard torque for that size nut if
> you
> wish, because the matco axle is going to keep it from over tightening.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> Robin Marks wrote:
> > Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly
> > tighten and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?
> >
> > I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive searches
> > but when I tried the results were mediocre.
> >
> > (Note: Matco Axel Installed)
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > Robin
> >
> > *
> >
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 29
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| Subject: | Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
Thanks all. I think I have a little Goldilocks syndrome. First too
loose, then too tight that eventually became too lose. I never felt
comfortable with accurately measuring the break out force and the lack
to refining the nut cotter hole location just adds to the issue. The
only RV I have ever owned that didn't some form of shimmy was my -4. It
would be nice to have a consistent landings and decelerations with no
vibration.
BTW for those that have yet to land their -10 it's pure Vans. I
regularly touch N110EE down where the only sensation is the spinning of
the mains followed by a comfortable wheelie till all authority is lost.
I'm not that good, credit Vans design.
Robin
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