Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:35 AM - Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Tim Olson)
2. 07:54 AM - Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Miller John)
3. 07:58 AM - drilling 3/4 inch holes in inboard ribs (Chris Hukill)
4. 08:32 AM - Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Scott Schmidt)
5. 08:58 AM - door handle (velo)
6. 09:20 AM - Starter contactor wiring B11 (Jae Chang)
7. 09:39 AM - Re: door handle (Dave Saylor)
8. 09:43 AM - Re: door handle (Les Kearney)
9. 10:04 AM - Re: OT - I want one - Apple iPad (Jae Chang)
10. 10:13 AM - Re: Silver Hawk O-ring (jayb)
11. 11:02 AM - Re: Starter contactor wiring B11 (Jim Berry)
12. 11:41 AM - Re: Re: Starter contactor wiring B11 (Jae Chang)
13. 06:33 PM - Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Robin Marks)
14. 06:55 PM - Re: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Linn Walters)
15. 07:14 PM - Re: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Rick)
16. 07:27 PM - Re: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Linn Walters)
17. 08:10 PM - Re: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (ricksked@cox.net)
18. 11:54 PM - Re: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Robin Marks)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
It gets better after the first 2 or 3 re-torques over 200-300
hrs...it's a break-in process from the feel of it.
Definitely right on the landings....the plane makes you look good.
Tim
On Feb 4, 2010, at 12:06 AM, "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
wrote:
>
> Thanks all. I think I have a little Goldilocks syndrome. First too
> loose, then too tight that eventually became too lose. I never felt
> comfortable with accurately measuring the break out force and the lack
> to refining the nut cotter hole location just adds to the issue. The
> only RV I have ever owned that didn't some form of shimmy was my -4.
> It
> would be nice to have a consistent landings and decelerations with no
> vibration.
> BTW for those that have yet to land their -10 it's pure Vans. I
> regularly touch N110EE down where the only sensation is the spinning
> of
> the mains followed by a comfortable wheelie till all authority is
> lost.
> I'm not that good, credit Vans design.
>
> Robin
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
My problem with the Matco Axle is getting the Matco parts tight
enough. Their instructions say to tighten until the seal doesn't
rotate, which I haven't been able to do by hand, then back off just
enough to get the set screw in place.
Anyone got an idea on how to tighten these parts without using large
channel locks and scarring up the finish?
grumpy
On Feb 3, 2010, at 9:40 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I think with that Matco Axle installed it should be pretty
> straightforward. For the nut that holds the forks on,
> you torque it until it has over 22? lb-ft of breakout force
> to get it to swivel....In practice I'd shoot for 25-35 and
> be on the high side because it WILL loosen up over the first
> couple hundred hours or 2 or 3 years.
>
> Then for the axle, you'd tighten that matco axle into the
> bearing about as tight as you can by hand, and then that sets
> the preload. After that you could tighten the axle bolt nuts
> to standard torque for that size nut if you wish, because
> the matco axle is going to keep it from over tightening.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> Robin Marks wrote:
>> Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly
>> tighten and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?
>> I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive
>> searches but when I tried the results were mediocre.
>> (Note: Matco Axel Installed)
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Robin
>> *
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | drilling 3/4 inch holes in inboard ribs |
I just completed the task of up-drilling those 5/8 holes to 3/4, not for
conduit, but for larger bushings. Go to Harbor freight and buy a 3/4
inch max step drill for $7.00 and install it into a drillbit extender. I
already had a quarter inch one, and had to drill out the female end a
tad to accept the 1/4 inch HEX on the step drill. If you don't already
own a drill bit extension, buy one a HF, you'll use it countless times
during your build.
With the 3/4 inch step drill/ extension rig, just up-drill the inboard
rib, thru that to number 2 rib, thru that to number 3 rib, etc.
De-bur the holes, and your done.
Chris Hukill
Wiring the wings
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork |
Make sure you balance the front wheel. After I balanced mine, which took about
1.5 oz. of lead, I had no more shimmy in my front wheel.
Before I did the wheel balancing I tried to tighten and loosen the fork and it
never made a difference.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
________________________________
From: Miller John <gengrumpy@aol.com>
Sent: Thu, February 4, 2010 8:30:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork
My problem with the Matco Axle is getting the Matco parts tight enough. Their
instructions say to tighten until the seal doesn't rotate, which I haven't been
able to do by hand, then back off just enough to get the set screw in place.
Anyone got an idea on how to tighten these parts without using large channel locks
and scarring up the finish?
grumpy
On Feb 3, 2010, at 9:40 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I think with that Matco Axle installed it should be pretty straightforward.
For the nut that holds the forks on,
> you torque it until it has over 22? lb-ft of breakout force
> to get it to swivel....In practice I'd shoot for 25-35 and
> be on the high side because it WILL loosen up over the first
> couple hundred hours or 2 or 3 years.
>
> Then for the axle, you'd tighten that matco axle into the
> bearing about as tight as you can by hand, and then that sets
> the preload. After that you could tighten the axle bolt nuts
> to standard torque for that size nut if you wish, because
> the matco axle is going to keep it from over tightening.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> Robin Marks wrote:
>> Does anyone have a detailed description of the best way to properly tighten
and test the nose wheel fork to minimize shimmy?
>> I have only read about it a dozen times and did some archive searches but when
I tried the results were mediocre.
>> (Note: Matco Axel Installed)
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Robin
>> *
>
>
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I know Rivethead :( made an outside door handle that looked a lot better than
Van's. Does anyone know of another source for a door handle. We want to keep
the standard door mechanism.
Rick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284848#284848
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Starter contactor wiring B11 |
http://picasaweb.google.com/jchang10/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7088GZlYCc2AE#5434438361737026322
Could someone explain what exactly the B11 wire does in Van's wiring
plans? I cropped an image in the link above.
For one, it seems redundant if one were to keep the jumper on the solenoid.
Also, Knuckolls uses the I terminal for an indicator light, but clearly,
that is not how it is being used here.
Jae
40533
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
We just got a set of these for a different type of plane:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/doorlatch.php
Maybe someone else has used them on a 10. They're pretty nice, but the pins
have some up/down travel since they rotate around a circumference, unlike
the stock pins that only move fore/aft. You'd have to compensate for that
somehow but I'm sure it could be done.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Thu, Feb 4, 2010 at 8:55 AM, velo <rickbarnes@highlanddental.com> wrote:
>
> I know Rivethead :( made an outside door handle that looked a lot better
> than Van's. Does anyone know of another source for a door handle. We want
> to keep the standard door mechanism.
>
> Rick
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284848#284848
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Hi
Steve DeNiri's billet handles and door blocks integrate nicely. The
door blocks are a must. The flush billet handles a very nice to have.
Cheers
Les
#40643
Sent from my iPhone
On 2010-02-04, at 9:55 AM, velo <rickbarnes@highlanddental.com> wrote:
> <rickbarnes@highlanddental.com>
>
> I know Rivethead :( made an outside door handle that looked a lot
> better than Van's. Does anyone know of another source for a door
> handle. We want to keep the standard door mechanism.
>
> Rick
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284848#284848
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: OT - I want one - Apple iPad |
http://goodexperience.com/2010/01/what-makes-a-successf.php
Play the video. Clearly, he overlooked the GPS feature! ;)
Jae
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Silver Hawk O-ring |
This brings up a great question... Is there a list of parts that should be replaced,
checked and/or lubed during the annual? Some may be obvious, while others
not so much.
Thanks,
Jay
[quote="Kelly McMullen"]If you are careful, you should not damage the O-ring. It
is a blue
fluorosilicone. Normally changed once a year at annual. Any Mooney
service center should have them, since all the 200hp Mooneys use the
same injection(with Bendix or Precision nameplate)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284856#284856
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Starter contactor wiring B11 |
Jae,
I posed this question some time back to both Van's and Skytec. Skytec said they
wished that the Vans drawing never existed, and insisted that their way was correct
for their starter. The response I got from Van's was that it was complicated.
When I asked them to elaborate, they never responded.
There was also some recent discussion about this on the Aeroelectric list, with
Bob Nuchols offering his interpretation.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284862#284862
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Starter contactor wiring B11 |
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf
Thanks Jim. Well, for now, I will just stick with the skytec
installation
http://skytecair.com/images/Certified%20ST2%20Installation%20Wiring_1100.jpg
From the PDF above, and my own assumptions, it seems like Vans wiring
is very strange. i guess it might work but is sure an odd way to go
about it.
Jae
Jim Berry wrote:
>
> Jae,
>
> I posed this question some time back to both Van's and Skytec. Skytec said they
wished that the Vans drawing never existed, and insisted that their way was
correct for their starter. The response I got from Van's was that it was complicated.
When I asked them to elaborate, they never responded.
>
> There was also some recent discussion about this on the Aeroelectric list, with
Bob Nuchols offering his interpretation.
>
> Jim Berry
> 40482
> N15JB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284862#284862
>
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel |
Fork
Problem found...
After removing the fairings & lifting the plane I discovered the gear
leg moved left & right approximately 3/4". The movement was quite
noticeable when un-weighted. This was a bit of a shock as to why the
gear leg was so loose. We removed both cowls etc... and found that the
pilots side firewall bushing was somewhat loose in the in the engine
mount sleeve. We tried swapping the bushing left & right but the same
pilots side sleeve did not snugly retain the bushing. In fact the
bushing showed some signs of rotational wear as if it was spinning in
the sleeve over time. After close inspection to make sure the sleeve was
not cracked or misshapen we determined that the solution was to mill a
custom bushing to properly fit the sleeve. After that task was complete
we dry fit the assembly to see what play was left and the gear leg was
rock solid left and right. I can't imagine that sleeve enlarged over
time so it must have been like this from the beginning??? I think we
would have noticed that but at this point I can't promise that is the
case. Regardless the issue may be resolved. I took a video of the
bushing at play but left the camera (along with my airport access card)
at the hangar. I will try and post the video tomorrow for those of you
that don't get out much. I did a quick breakout test using my digital
luggage scale and found the tension required was just under 40 Lbs so
tomorrow we will be playing around with that setting as well.
Thanks for everyone's input,
Robin
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel |
Fork
Looking forward to the video!
I'm curious .... how much of the bow is left in the belleville washers
to create 40 lbs of drag??? I looked at the -10 parts list .... I'm not
at the gear install stage yet .... and it lists 2 washers. The Grummans
use 4 or more. Can you still push the nose back and forth to 'park' the
-10 without using a tow bar???
Linn
do not archive
Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Problem found...
> After removing the fairings & lifting the plane I discovered the gear
> leg moved left & right approximately 3/4". The movement was quite
> noticeable when un-weighted. This was a bit of a shock as to why the
> gear leg was so loose. We removed both cowls etc... and found that the
> pilots side firewall bushing was somewhat loose in the in the engine
> mount sleeve. We tried swapping the bushing left & right but the same
> pilots side sleeve did not snugly retain the bushing. In fact the
> bushing showed some signs of rotational wear as if it was spinning in
> the sleeve over time. After close inspection to make sure the sleeve was
> not cracked or misshapen we determined that the solution was to mill a
> custom bushing to properly fit the sleeve. After that task was complete
> we dry fit the assembly to see what play was left and the gear leg was
> rock solid left and right. I can't imagine that sleeve enlarged over
> time so it must have been like this from the beginning??? I think we
> would have noticed that but at this point I can't promise that is the
> case. Regardless the issue may be resolved. I took a video of the
> bushing at play but left the camera (along with my airport access card)
> at the hangar. I will try and post the video tomorrow for those of you
> that don't get out much. I did a quick breakout test using my digital
> luggage scale and found the tension required was just under 40 Lbs so
> tomorrow we will be playing around with that setting as well.
>
> Thanks for everyone's input,
> Robin
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel |
Fork
I use my tow bar, never tried to do it without because the nose wheel wants
to turn where I don't want it! Looking forward to Robins video, I only
recently picked up the dreaded shimmy, I might add it crept in, not all the
sudden...going to follow Scott's recommendation and balance the nose wheel
this weekend. I really don't like shoving on my spinner cowl to align the
aircraft while putting it in the hangar...that's why I have the tow bar..
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 6:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose
Wheel Fork
Looking forward to the video!
I'm curious .... how much of the bow is left in the belleville washers
to create 40 lbs of drag??? I looked at the -10 parts list .... I'm not
at the gear install stage yet .... and it lists 2 washers. The Grummans
use 4 or more. Can you still push the nose back and forth to 'park' the
-10 without using a tow bar???
Linn
do not archive
Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Problem found...
> After removing the fairings & lifting the plane I discovered the gear
> leg moved left & right approximately 3/4". The movement was quite
> noticeable when un-weighted. This was a bit of a shock as to why the
> gear leg was so loose. We removed both cowls etc... and found that the
> pilots side firewall bushing was somewhat loose in the in the engine
> mount sleeve. We tried swapping the bushing left & right but the same
> pilots side sleeve did not snugly retain the bushing. In fact the
> bushing showed some signs of rotational wear as if it was spinning in
> the sleeve over time. After close inspection to make sure the sleeve was
> not cracked or misshapen we determined that the solution was to mill a
> custom bushing to properly fit the sleeve. After that task was complete
> we dry fit the assembly to see what play was left and the gear leg was
> rock solid left and right. I can't imagine that sleeve enlarged over
> time so it must have been like this from the beginning??? I think we
> would have noticed that but at this point I can't promise that is the
> case. Regardless the issue may be resolved. I took a video of the
> bushing at play but left the camera (along with my airport access card)
> at the hangar. I will try and post the video tomorrow for those of you
> that don't get out much. I did a quick breakout test using my digital
> luggage scale and found the tension required was just under 40 Lbs so
> tomorrow we will be playing around with that setting as well.
>
> Thanks for everyone's input,
> Robin
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose |
Wheel Fork
As long as you have the nose up ..... measure the side breakout force at
the wheel axle. I'm guessing that the 'break-in wear' has loosened up
your original setting.
Linn
Rick wrote:
>
> I use my tow bar, never tried to do it without because the nose wheel wants
> to turn where I don't want it! Looking forward to Robins video, I only
> recently picked up the dreaded shimmy, I might add it crept in, not all the
> sudden...going to follow Scott's recommendation and balance the nose wheel
> this weekend. I really don't like shoving on my spinner cowl to align the
> aircraft while putting it in the hangar...that's why I have the tow bar..
>
> Rick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
> Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 6:52 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose
> Wheel Fork
>
>
> Looking forward to the video!
> I'm curious .... how much of the bow is left in the belleville washers
> to create 40 lbs of drag??? I looked at the -10 parts list .... I'm not
> at the gear install stage yet .... and it lists 2 washers. The Grummans
> use 4 or more. Can you still push the nose back and forth to 'park' the
> -10 without using a tow bar???
>
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> Robin Marks wrote:
>>
>> Problem found...
>> After removing the fairings & lifting the plane I discovered the gear
>> leg moved left & right approximately 3/4". The movement was quite
>> noticeable when un-weighted. This was a bit of a shock as to why the
>> gear leg was so loose. We removed both cowls etc... and found that the
>> pilots side firewall bushing was somewhat loose in the in the engine
>> mount sleeve. We tried swapping the bushing left & right but the same
>> pilots side sleeve did not snugly retain the bushing. In fact the
>> bushing showed some signs of rotational wear as if it was spinning in
>> the sleeve over time. After close inspection to make sure the sleeve was
>> not cracked or misshapen we determined that the solution was to mill a
>> custom bushing to properly fit the sleeve. After that task was complete
>> we dry fit the assembly to see what play was left and the gear leg was
>> rock solid left and right. I can't imagine that sleeve enlarged over
>> time so it must have been like this from the beginning??? I think we
>> would have noticed that but at this point I can't promise that is the
>> case. Regardless the issue may be resolved. I took a video of the
>> bushing at play but left the camera (along with my airport access card)
>> at the hangar. I will try and post the video tomorrow for those of you
>> that don't get out much. I did a quick breakout test using my digital
>> luggage scale and found the tension required was just under 40 Lbs so
>> tomorrow we will be playing around with that setting as well.
>>
>> Thanks for everyone's input,
>> Robin
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose |
Wheel Fork
I've adjusted it three times...even relocated the cotter pin hole one flat over...it
stays close but with the added hole it hits right at 25 lbs
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose
Wheel Fork
As long as you have the nose up ..... measure the side breakout force at
the wheel axle. I'm guessing that the 'break-in wear' has loosened up
your original setting.
Linn
Rick wrote:
>
> I use my tow bar, never tried to do it without because the nose wheel wants
> to turn where I don't want it! Looking forward to Robins video, I only
> recently picked up the dreaded shimmy, I might add it crept in, not all the
> sudden...going to follow Scott's recommendation and balance the nose wheel
> this weekend. I really don't like shoving on my spinner cowl to align the
> aircraft while putting it in the hangar...that's why I have the tow bar..
>
> Rick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
> Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 6:52 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose
> Wheel Fork
>
>
> Looking forward to the video!
> I'm curious .... how much of the bow is left in the belleville washers
> to create 40 lbs of drag??? I looked at the -10 parts list .... I'm not
> at the gear install stage yet .... and it lists 2 washers. The Grummans
> use 4 or more. Can you still push the nose back and forth to 'park' the
> -10 without using a tow bar???
>
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> Robin Marks wrote:
>>
>> Problem found...
>> After removing the fairings & lifting the plane I discovered the gear
>> leg moved left & right approximately 3/4". The movement was quite
>> noticeable when un-weighted. This was a bit of a shock as to why the
>> gear leg was so loose. We removed both cowls etc... and found that the
>> pilots side firewall bushing was somewhat loose in the in the engine
>> mount sleeve. We tried swapping the bushing left & right but the same
>> pilots side sleeve did not snugly retain the bushing. In fact the
>> bushing showed some signs of rotational wear as if it was spinning in
>> the sleeve over time. After close inspection to make sure the sleeve was
>> not cracked or misshapen we determined that the solution was to mill a
>> custom bushing to properly fit the sleeve. After that task was complete
>> we dry fit the assembly to see what play was left and the gear leg was
>> rock solid left and right. I can't imagine that sleeve enlarged over
>> time so it must have been like this from the beginning??? I think we
>> would have noticed that but at this point I can't promise that is the
>> case. Regardless the issue may be resolved. I took a video of the
>> bushing at play but left the camera (along with my airport access card)
>> at the hangar. I will try and post the video tomorrow for those of you
>> that don't get out much. I did a quick breakout test using my digital
>> luggage scale and found the tension required was just under 40 Lbs so
>> tomorrow we will be playing around with that setting as well.
>>
>> Thanks for everyone's input,
>> Robin
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel |
Fork
Linn, I don't know how to access remaining bow. They look like two BV
washers to me.
Rick, I only use my tow bar to get the plane in and out of my tight,
narrow, rusty walled LA hangar. Yuck. Pushing the plane in and out of my
larger hangar I use the prop and can easily maneuver the plane. I never
place force on the spinner.
To all re: the video. Be forewarned It's me holding a heavy flashlight
between my shoulder and chin under the engine while jiggling the bushing
with one hand and probably holding the video recorder too close for
proper focus in the other hand. This is more Felini than Kubrick (I just
watched Clockwork Orange)
Thanks,
Robin
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|