Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:11 AM - Re: Nose wheel breakout force (gary)
2. 07:28 AM - Re: Nose wheel breakout force (Robin Marks)
3. 07:40 AM - Re: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Linn Walters)
4. 07:45 AM - Re: Nose wheel breakout force (Rick)
5. 08:47 AM - Re: Re: Starter contactor wiring B11 (Jae Chang)
6. 12:43 PM - Torque Wrench (Luis)
7. 02:08 PM - Re: Torque Wrench (Jeff Carpenter)
8. 03:07 PM - New G900 Carbon Fiber panel (aerosport1)
9. 04:06 PM - Re: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Robin Marks)
10. 04:23 PM - Re: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Linn Walters)
11. 04:53 PM - Rubbing issue (Ed Godfrey)
12. 04:55 PM - Re: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel (Jim Berry)
13. 06:23 PM - Re: Torque Wrench (Bob Turner)
14. 09:23 PM - Re: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel Fork (Rick)
15. 09:30 PM - Re: Rubbing issue (Rick)
16. 09:41 PM - Re: Rubbing issue (Pascal)
Message 1
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| Subject: | : RV10-List:Nose wheel breakout force |
In my many years with castering nose wheels on Grummans, Glasairs, and
Glastars, I have found that the only penalty for getting the nut too tight
on the Bellevue washers is that it is hard to turn while slow taxiing. The
penalty for too loose is to destroy the nose wheel pant and possibly destroy
the nose gear mountings if you get shimmy on take off and landing.
Do not be afraid to get the torque up to the next hole after you have
achieved the required breakout force. The downside is so slight. It is my
opinion if you can turn the nose wheel with the prop, you are either very
strong or have your breakout force too low.
Gary Specketer
Message 2
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| Subject: | : RV10-List:Nose wheel breakout force |
I opt for Very Strong.
Also of note the -10 is a lot heavier than the aircraft you mentioned. A
little nudge while rolling can easily shift the nose wheel in the
desired direction. But again I am exceptionally strong. I mean
freakishly strong. All I have to do is pull back on the control stick
and I can lift the entire plane off the runway.
Robin
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2010 5:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List:Nose wheel breakout force
In my many years with castering nose wheels on Grummans, Glasairs, and
Glastars, I have found that the only penalty for getting the nut too
tight
on the Bellevue washers is that it is hard to turn while slow taxiing.
The
penalty for too loose is to destroy the nose wheel pant and possibly
destroy
the nose gear mountings if you get shimmy on take off and landing.
Do not be afraid to get the torque up to the next hole after you have
achieved the required breakout force. The downside is so slight. It is
my
opinion if you can turn the nose wheel with the prop, you are either
very
strong or have your breakout force too low.
Gary Specketer
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose |
Wheel Fork
Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Linn, I don't know how to access remaining bow. They look like two BV
> washers to me
As long as they look like two BV washers, then they're not compressed
flat. If they were flat, they'd look like plain washers. The BV
washers when installed outside to outside will look like the fork isn't
tightened ....... space between the fork washers and the BV washers.
I've seen them squished flat, all stacked back to belly ..... you name it.
> Rick, I only use my tow bar to get the plane in and out of my tight,
> narrow, rusty walled LA hangar. Yuck. Pushing the plane in and out of my
> larger hangar I use the prop and can easily maneuver the plane. I never
> place force on the spinner.
Someday when the plane is left in the care of an FBO, the lineman WILL
move it and he'll use the spinner. It's best to make it easy for him
(or her) to move it by hand without a towbar.
Linn
> To all re: the video. Be forewarned It's me holding a heavy flashlight
> between my shoulder and chin under the engine while jiggling the bushing
> with one hand and probably holding the video recorder too close for
> proper focus in the other hand. This is more Felini than Kubrick (I just
> watched Clockwork Orange)
>
> Thanks,
> Robin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | : RV10-List:Nose wheel breakout force |
Hopefully you mean while it's going 65 kts and rolling down the
runway?....Funny stuff!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2010 7:22 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List:Nose wheel breakout force
I opt for Very Strong.
Also of note the -10 is a lot heavier than the aircraft you mentioned. A
little nudge while rolling can easily shift the nose wheel in the
desired direction. But again I am exceptionally strong. I mean
freakishly strong. All I have to do is pull back on the control stick
and I can lift the entire plane off the runway.
Robin
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2010 5:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List:Nose wheel breakout force
In my many years with castering nose wheels on Grummans, Glasairs, and
Glastars, I have found that the only penalty for getting the nut too
tight
on the Bellevue washers is that it is hard to turn while slow taxiing.
The
penalty for too loose is to destroy the nose wheel pant and possibly
destroy
the nose gear mountings if you get shimmy on take off and landing.
Do not be afraid to get the torque up to the next hole after you have
achieved the required breakout force. The downside is so slight. It is
my
opinion if you can turn the nose wheel with the prop, you are either
very
strong or have your breakout force too low.
Gary Specketer
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Starter contactor wiring B11 |
http://www.skytecair.com/Wiring_Diag.htm
As a final follow-up, the above link actually gives detailed
instructions specifically for RV-10 builders at the bottom of the page.
I had not scrolled down far enough initially. I haven't verified all the
model numbers, but I am assuming everyone has the NL starters as
indicated on that page.
Jae
40533
Message 6
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How soon is the torque wrench needed and what size is needed?
thanks
Luis
On Jan 31, 2010, at 12:03 AM, Michael Kraus wrote:
> I have a MT, but not flying yet. Bought it because it is
> smoooooth..... Wish I hadn't because it makes taking the lower cowl
> off a biotch..... Since the blended airfoil Hartzell is faster and
> makes the cowl infinitely easier to get off, I wish I'd have
> purchased it....
>
> That is just my opinion.....
> -Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 30, 2010, at 9:54 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com
> > wrote:
>
>> Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is
>> the opinion of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about
>> 50%more expensive?
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrench |
Hi Luis,
You'll need to torque the counter balance weight on the rudder, but
that can be done later... you get in to much more significant use of
the wrench on the wings/fuel tanks and a painful amount when joining
the fuselage halves.
A ratchet style wrench, 1/4" or 1/2" drive measuring in inch lbs from
Craftsman suffers a little bit for accuracy, but you'll have to monkey
around quite a bit with the more accurate beam style wrench to access
the nuts when joining the spar pass-throughs. I'm sure Snap-On has
the perfect tool. I'm also sure I can't afford it.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Feb 5, 2010, at 12:42 PM, Luis wrote:
> How soon is the torque wrench needed and what size is needed?
>
>
> thanks
>
> Luis
>
>
> On Jan 31, 2010, at 12:03 AM, Michael Kraus wrote:
>
>> I have a MT, but not flying yet. Bought it because it is
>> smoooooth..... Wish I hadn't because it makes taking the lower
>> cowl off a biotch..... Since the blended airfoil Hartzell is
>> faster and makes the cowl infinitely easier to get off, I wish I'd
>> have purchased it....
>>
>> That is just my opinion.....
>> -Mike
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jan 30, 2010, at 9:54 PM, Roxanne and Mike Lefever <roxianmike@msn.com
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> Anyone on the list purchase the three blade MT and if so what is
>>> the opinion of this set up versus the Hartzell which is about
>>> 50%more expensive?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | New G900 Carbon Fiber panel |
The picture attached is the first carbon panel out of the mold. The panel was designed
specifically for the Garmin G900 avionics. They will be available Thru
http://www.aerosportproducts.com
These panels will use all the same lower console pieces as our standard panel.
It will also fit with the carbon center armrest console as well as the throttle
quadrant kit.
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying
40033
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285007#285007
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/1g900_panel_190.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rv_10_g900_panel1_129.jpg
Message 9
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| Subject: | Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose |
Wheel Fork
Here is the video I promised:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EmT38rDenwA
Robin
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose |
Wheel Fork
Thanks Robin!
I'll have to keep an eye on that ..... when I get that far!!! <GR>
Linn
do not archive
Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Here is the video I promised:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EmT38rDenwA
>
> Robin
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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Listers,
I am at the point where I am adjusting the aileron pushrods for
proper length, before I finish with the wing. It seems when I move the
aileron to the down position, I get a rubbing between the W1018 Aileron
Pushrod and the W1013 Inboard Aileron Hing Bracket. This happens on both
ailerons. I talked to Joe at Van's and asked him how much travel the
aileron does, since I might be exceeding the travel when the rubbing
starts. He said that I should have between 15 and 17 down travel. I
measured it and I have about 9 down travel when the rubbing starts. Has
anyone else run into this issue? I have checked to see if I might have
had an extra washer that is moving the pushrod over, but there is only
the one washer and the spacer on the outboard side and 1 washer on the
inboard side
Ed Godfrey
40717
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose Wheel |
Robin,
That is a really bad shake in your hand. They have good medicine for that sort
of thing. [Laughing]
Do not archive
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285015#285015
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrench |
Smaller is better. A foot-lb wrench is nearly useless. AN3 bolts only go to 25
inch pounds. I suggest a 1/4" drive, inch pound one. It is easy enough to check
their calibration.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285026#285026
Message 14
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| Subject: | Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose |
Wheel Fork
That's quite a bit of slop, any idea what may have caused that wear on the
bushing or the inner portion of the mount? IIRC it was a nice snug fit when
originally installed. Do you think may a side load condition? I would think
the wheel would caster to prevent that. Got me thinking. Gotta jack it up
and see now...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2010 4:05 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Loose Bushing - Was Proper Technique to Tighten Nose
Wheel Fork
Here is the video I promised:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EmT38rDenwA
Robin
Message 15
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Ed,
Make sure you have all the aileron spacers washers etc on first. Also make
sure the out board rib bracket is aligned perpendicular to the rear spar.
If I read your post correctly it's not rubbing on the opening on the rear
spar but on the hinge bracket itself? Is it the pushrod or the rivets? You
may have to re clock the push rod so the manufac. Head is next to the
bracket/hinge. At full travel I know the pushrod gets close to touching but
not quite. 9 degrees is not much down, and granted there is not that much
down aileron due to the differential throw. Are you using the metal angle
template to establish neutral or do you have the flap installed to compare
it? Double check your pushrod length and remember the stop for the down
throw is on the opposite aileron and only comes into play when the wings are
attached and the aircraft is rigged correctly. Just some thoughts.
Rick S.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Godfrey
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2010 4:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rubbing issue
Listers,
I am at the point where I am adjusting the aileron pushrods for
proper length, before I finish with the wing. It seems when I move the
aileron to the down position, I get a rubbing between the W1018 Aileron
Pushrod and the W1013 Inboard Aileron Hing Bracket. This happens on both
ailerons. I talked to Joe at Van's and asked him how much travel the
aileron does, since I might be exceeding the travel when the rubbing
starts. He said that I should have between 15 and 17 down travel. I
measured it and I have about 9 down travel when the rubbing starts. Has
anyone else run into this issue? I have checked to see if I might have
had an extra washer that is moving the pushrod over, but there is only
the one washer and the spacer on the outboard side and 1 washer on the
inboard side
Ed Godfrey
40717
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Rubbing issue |
yep, I had the same problem.
This is actually common, here is a response from a while back when this came
up.
Many times answered before....when both wings are on the aileron stop does
not allow the aileron to deflect far enough to hit the bracket...really,
trust us...this question always comes up when someone reaches the point in
the wings where they test the aileron actuation for the first time....don't
feel bad, your not the first..I think I was, and you won't be the last.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Ed Godfrey" <egodfrey@ameritech.net>
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2010 4:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rubbing issue
>
> Listers,
> I am at the point where I am adjusting the aileron pushrods for proper
> length, before I finish with the wing. It seems when I move the aileron to
> the down position, I get a rubbing between the W1018 Aileron Pushrod and
> the W1013 Inboard Aileron Hing Bracket. This happens on both ailerons. I
> talked to Joe at Van's and asked him how much travel the aileron does,
> since I might be exceeding the travel when the rubbing starts. He said
> that I should have between 15 and 17 down travel. I measured it and I
> have about 9 down travel when the rubbing starts. Has anyone else run
> into this issue? I have checked to see if I might have had an extra washer
> that is moving the pushrod over, but there is only the one washer and the
> spacer on the outboard side and 1 washer on the inboard side
>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717
>
>
>
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