Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:56 AM - Re: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders (Ron McGann)
2. 04:47 AM - Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing (John Cox)
3. 05:03 AM - storing componets (Rick Lark)
4. 05:05 AM - Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing (rleffler)
5. 05:06 AM - Re: OSH camping (Perry, Phil)
6. 05:35 AM - Re: storing componets (rv10flyer)
7. 06:13 AM - Re: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing (Danny Riggs)
8. 06:52 AM - Re: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing (Bob Leffler)
9. 07:19 AM - Re: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders (Pascal)
10. 07:57 AM - Re: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders (Tim Olson)
11. 08:09 AM - Re: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders (Jim Combs)
12. 08:26 AM - Re: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing (Danny Riggs)
13. 08:34 AM - Re: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders (Linn Walters)
14. 08:34 AM - Re: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing (Danny Riggs)
15. 08:46 AM - Re: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing (Pascal)
16. 08:54 AM - Re: Re: New Door Latch Video S.B. replacement (James Stribling)
17. 08:58 AM - RV10 Transition Training (zackrv8)
18. 09:01 AM - Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing (Billy & Tami Britton)
19. 09:08 AM - Re: Re: New Door Latch Video S.B. replacement (Billy & Tami Britton)
20. 09:49 AM - Re: Re: New Door Latch Video S.B. replacement (Tim Olson)
21. 09:49 AM - Re: New Door Latch Video S.B. replacement (Strasnuts)
22. 10:36 AM - Re: OSH camping (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
23. 10:37 AM - Re: OSH camping (gary)
24. 10:38 AM - Re: Windshield fairing (Dave Saylor)
25. 10:54 AM - Re: Windshield fairing (Jim Berry)
26. 10:59 AM - Re: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders (John Cox)
27. 10:59 AM - Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing (Bob Leffler)
28. 10:59 AM - Re: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders (Jim Combs)
29. 11:15 AM - fiberglass tips (Russell Shavitz)
30. 11:22 AM - Re: Windshield fairing (johngoodman)
31. 12:11 PM - Re: fiberglass tips (John Cox)
32. 12:30 PM - Re: fiberglass tips (Dave Saylor)
33. 12:48 PM - Re: Windshield fairing (Pascal)
34. 01:16 PM - Re: OSH camping (John Cumins)
35. 01:32 PM - Re: Windshield fairing (orchidman)
36. 01:48 PM - Re: Windshield fairing (Dave Saylor)
37. 02:16 PM - Re: Windshield fairing (gary)
38. 02:47 PM - Re: Windshield fairing (Richard Barnes)
39. 02:50 PM - Re: OSH camping (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
40. 02:51 PM - Re: Windshield fairing (John Gonzalez)
41. 02:51 PM - Re: Windshield fairing (Pascal)
42. 03:15 PM - Re: OSH camping (Perry, Phil)
43. 03:15 PM - Re: Windshield fairing (Dave Saylor)
44. 03:26 PM - Re: fiberglass tips (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
45. 03:47 PM - Re: RV10 Transition Training (Don McDonald)
46. 04:23 PM - Installing main gear leg fairings first (Rob Kochman)
47. 05:35 PM - Re: wiring (Ron B.)
48. 05:59 PM - Re: Installing main gear leg fairings first (jkreidler)
49. 06:26 PM - Re: Re: storing componets (Rick Lark)
50. 06:37 PM - Re: Installing main gear leg fairings first (John Gonzalez)
51. 06:48 PM - Re: Installing main gear leg fairings first (Jim Berry)
52. 06:50 PM - Re: Re: Installing main gear leg fairings first (David Maib)
53. 06:58 PM - Re: Installing main gear leg fairings first (Pascal)
54. 07:03 PM - Re: Re: storing componets (ricksked@cox.net)
55. 07:16 PM - Re: fiberglass tips (Kelly McMullen)
56. 07:30 PM - Re: RV10 Transition Training (zackrv8)
57. 08:10 PM - Re: Installing main gear leg fairings first (Lew Gallagher)
58. 08:12 PM - Re: Re: wiring (Larry Rosen)
59. 08:31 PM - Re: fiberglass tips (Larry Rosen)
60. 08:38 PM - Re: fiberglass tips (greghale)
61. 08:43 PM - Re: Re: Installing main gear leg fairings first (Pascal)
62. 08:58 PM - Re: Installing main gear leg fairings first (Jim Berry)
63. 09:01 PM - Re: fiberglass tips (Dave Saylor)
64. 09:33 PM - Re: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing (Tim Olson)
65. 09:50 PM - Re: fiberglass tips (David Shelton)
66. 10:56 PM - Re: fiberglass tips (Larry Rosen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders |
Sorry for not being specific - as I said, I'm not an engine guru.
When I say 'hot' both CHT and EGT on #2 are higher when running ROP. On
takeoff in particular, #2 CHT redlines unless I drop the nose to increase
airspeed and airflow into the engine. I also trimmed the air dam in front
of #2 to half its original height with zero effect. The problem is not
unmanageable. I simply monitor the CHT and keep it within limits by
adjusting throttle, mixture and airspeed. But it is annoying when there is
so much difference between #2 and the rest (which are all pretty close
together).
I understand Kelly's point below. I will remove the #2 injector and
inspect/clean. I assume I can replace the existing restrictor with a larger
one.
Cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, 8 February 2010 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders
Unrestricted flow without injectors is NOT meaningful. There would be
way more flow than you would ever get through the injectors. You need
to redo the test with injectors after ensuring the offending injector
is truly clean. Then consult with AFS or GAMI as to revision needed.
On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 6:33 PM, McGann, Ron <Ron.McGann@ausawd.com> wrote:
>
> Thx guys - keep the responses coming. I should point out that I did the
fuel flow test with the fuel lines disconnected from the injectors, so this
is raw flow from the spider down the fuel line only. I don't see how adding
inserts/restrictors is going to help my case.
>
> Cheers,
> Ron
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Monday, 8 February 2010 8:15 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders
>
>
> Not all Bendix injectors are two piece, so you couldn't put inserts in the
older one piece. And the inserts would not be legal in a certified engine.
But if AFP system should be no issue.
>
> On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 10:47 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>>
>> By this, BTW, I mean that the injectors are the same. They're just
>> injectors. You can buy AFP inserts for your Precision/Bendix
>> injectors. As far as I know, the AFP difference is in the servo and
>> spider.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Precision/bendix is the same thing, so this isn't unique to AFP.
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Feb 7, 2010, at 8:55 AM, Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> --> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>>>>
>>>> I'm not positive, but I think they're only for experimental
>>>> aircraft. The really neat thing about AF injectors is that they
>>>> change an insert instead of the whole injector body ..... making it
>>>> much easier to change the injector orifice on a hot engine.
>>>> Linn
>>>>
>>>> Jim Combs wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Ron,
>>>>> Airflow Performance has injectors with inserts. Various inserts
>>>>> have different diameters and will adjust fuel flow. They have a
>>>>> procedure for checking and adjusting the fuel flows for balance.
>>>>> You should check them out.
>>>>> There is no adjustment in the spider.
>>>>> Jim Combs (N312F)
>>>>> On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 3:33 AM, Ron McGann
>>>>> <ronrvbuilder@bigpond.com <mailto:ronrvbuilder@bigpond.com>> wrote:
>>>>> G'day all,
>>>>> Since first flight, I have noticed that my #2 cylinder is
>>>>> consistently hotter than the rest in all modes of flight except
>>>>> cruise lean of peak. At peak, and lean of peak, #2 is
>>>>> consistently
>>>>> cooler than the rest. I concluded that the fuel flow rate to
>>>>> cylinder 2 was less the rest for some reason. At the suggestion
>>>>> of
>>>>> one of our listers, I popped the top cowl and ran the 'coke
>>>>> bottle
>>>>> test'. This confirmed that fuel delivery to cylinder 2 was
>>>>> indeed
>>>>> about 80% of that to the other cylinders. So, what to
>>>>> do? I removed the fuel line, cleaned it and could not
>>>>> find any obvious obstruction. Since the flow test confirmed the
>>>>> flow out of the line was less than the others, I can only
>>>>> conclude
>>>>> that there is a problem with the spider. Are there any
>>>>> adjustments
>>>>> that can be made? Sorry if this is a really lame question, but
>>>>> engines are still a black art to me.
>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>> Ron
>>>>> VH-XRM, flying in Oz *
>>>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>> *
>>>>> *
>>>>> *
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | RV-10 Cutaway Drawing |
Bob, I am amazed you found Tom and his fine work all the way out here. I h
ave a numbered and autographed version of Delmar Benjamin's one of a kind B
ee Gee Racer. For those reading this post, it is unbelievable. I consider
it a true investment.
I have already sent my response to Tom, would be glad to put him in touch w
ith a number of the RV-10 builders in this area. I will provide a round tr
ip ticket to get him down to see Deems N519PJ and he might just appreciate
getting away from the soggy Pacific NorthWe. for the more temperate Arizona
this time of year. He is worth the investment. Count me on board for the
full meal 24 x 36" deal. How many do we need to move this project along?
The rest of you and those in Wisconsin who have little wooden painted model
s on their desk might consider such a great offer.
John Cox
From: Bob Leffler
Sent: Sun 2/7/2010 11:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
I don't know how many folks have followed the Cutaway RV Drawing thread on
VAF. (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=38927) I h
ave taken an interest and wanted to share with the RV-10 community to gathe
r more interest.
Here is an example of the RV-7A Slider:
To get a RV-10 version commissioned and started, Tom needs a demonstrated i
nterest from the RV-10 community. I'm interested in getting one and I tho
ught I would post here to encourage others that may be interested to order
as well.
To order, just send an email to tjtechart@comcast.net and let Tom know whic
h model you want and whether you want a limited edition or an open edition
print. If you want an open edition, let us know if you want an 18x24 or 24x
36. No money is collected until the project starts.
The following is an overview of what's involved in the project and the diff
erent types of prints available.
Research (approximately 50 hours including travel)
Access to engineering plans and actual RV's. I have already contacted Vans'
Aircraft who have given me a thumbs up "go", and they are willing to provi
de access to plans. I'm confident there are enough RVs in the Portland area
for final close-up access to a finished plane(s).
Hand created draft (about 200 hours)
Pencil the detailed draft. This is the phase that makes my art unique. I do
this phase by hand because it adds a unique perspective and fine art quali
ty-like Leonardo DaVinci. Also because it's more like building the real pla
ne, which is essentially what I must do to create these images.
Final details and painting (about 100 hours)
Load the draft into the computer for completion and painting.
Send to the Printer.
Tom will bill the retainer through PayPal once the required number of order
s is reached.
Once all retainers (50%) have been received, I will schedule in the projec
t, which will take approximately 8 weeks to complete.
Available prints and pricing:
18" X 24" on archival paper............................................. ..
.$45.00 +S/H**
24" X 36" on archival paper............................................. ..
.$65.00 +S/H**
Fine-art 24" X 36" limited edition of 100 *giclee prints..........$200.00 +
S/H**
Custom prints: an exclusive cutaway of your personal aircraft with your pai
nt scheme and specific details. By quote only, the price will be determined
by the complexity of paint scheme and level of detail desired. A 50% depos
it will be required on these special projects to secure a position in the q
ueue. They will be scheduled in the order received after completion. Custom
cutaways generally range between $500 - $1500. I have done some of these w
orks for Pitts Model 12 customers and they have been extremely pleased with
the final result.
*a giclee is digital print that is the highest quality reproduction availab
le. These are fine-art prints produced on museum quality acid-free paper us
ing non-fading special inks. When framed properly, these prints have non-fa
ding life expectancy of 100 years. These must be printed one at a time at u
ltra-high resolution for maximum detail. They take about 1 hour each to pri
nt and are dazzling.
**Shipping and handling includes actual shipping charge and packing tube. W
ithin the US this is $15.00. Overseas rates vary. (Inquire for rates)
Artwork is always copyrighted with all rights retained by TJTechArt, Inc.
Message 3
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| Subject: | storing componets |
Hi guys
I'm planning to store my VS, rudder etc in the walk up attic of my house
which is subject to outside temps and humidity. Should I remove the
blue plastic prior to placing them up there??
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing |
John,
I've been told that Tom looks for about 60 of the giclee prints or several hundred
of the standard prints. As I understand, he has about ten orders for the
RV-10.
Tom was cc'd on my email, plus I let him know that I was posting to the forum.
Hopefully, he'll drop by and add some comments.
bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Fuselage
RV-10 #40684
mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285321#285321
Message 5
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|
We picked up a cabin in Sleepy Hollow Farms a few weeks ago... They
still had plenty available for those who are interested...
And it's located on the field - just behind the outdoor movie theater.
Phil
From: DLM [mailto:dlm46007@cox.net]
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 10:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH camping
is anyone taking reservations for camping this year? we haven't decided
on hotel or tent. Expect to arrive Sunday and leave Wednesday. Probably
can tent camp with the spam cans. Probably be better to camp in Scholer
in RV10 village.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: storing componets |
Goodmorning Rick. Yes, I would recommend removing it. It will be more difficult
to remove the longer it stays on. I removed blue vinyl from all parts of my complete
kit except skins. Actually my kids did most of them. You may want to
ensure there is good air circulation around the pieces with nothing to trap condensation
with temp changes in the spring. Working on tailcone myself. Have fun!
--------
Wayne Gillispie
A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Grayson, KY
Bldr# 40983
Ordered complete kit 8/24/09
DB Schenker delivered 11/20/09
Starting empennage 12/01/09
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285327#285327
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing |
Wow! Where do you sign up for one of these?? Dan
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
> From: rv@thelefflers.com
> Date: Mon=2C 8 Feb 2010 05:04:56 -0800
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> John=2C
>
> I've been told that Tom looks for about 60 of the giclee prints or severa
l hundred of the standard prints. As I understand=2C he has about ten ord
ers for the RV-10.
>
> Tom was cc'd on my email=2C plus I let him know that I was posting to th
e forum. Hopefully=2C he'll drop by and add some comments.
>
> bob
>
> --------
> Bob Leffler
> N410BL - Fuselage
> RV-10 #40684
> mykitlog.com/rleffler
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285321#285321
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing |
To order, just send an email to tjtechart@comcast.net Let Tom know which
model you want and whether you want a limited edition or an open edition
print. If you want an open edition, let us know if you want an 18x24 or
24x36. No money is collected until the project starts.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 9:11 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
Wow! Where do you sign up for one of these?? Dan
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
> From: rv@thelefflers.com
> Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 05:04:56 -0800
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> John,
>
> I've been told that Tom looks for about 60 of the giclee prints or several
hundred of the standard prints. As I understand, he has about ten orders for
the RV-10.
>
> Tom was cc'd on my email, plus I let him know that I was posting to the
forum. Hopefully, he'll drop by and add some comments.
>
> bob
>
> --------
> Bob Leffler
> N410BL - Fuselage
> RV-10 #40684
> mykitlog.com/rleffler
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285321#285321
>
>
>
>
_____
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. Sign up
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders |
I know zilch about this at this point, but I would take the recommendation
of swapping the #2 injector with a different injector from the engine and
see if there is a difference. If you still see the same results send your
info to AFP or GAMI and let them figure this out, another option.. do you
have a new Lycoming from Vans? maybe a call to Lycoming or who ever makes
your spider ask if they have any ideas..
I was with a completed builder this weekend and I noticed he had no dam on
one side, he mentioned that he never modified the injectors as the removed
dam took care of his issue.. Not sure what the specific issue was but sounds
like a the symptoms you appear to have.. swap out injectors and find a local
builder A/P that might be able to help.
Best of success!
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Ron McGann" <ronrvbuilder@bigpond.com>
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 12:00 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders
>
> Sorry for not being specific - as I said, I'm not an engine guru.
>
> When I say 'hot' both CHT and EGT on #2 are higher when running ROP. On
> takeoff in particular, #2 CHT redlines unless I drop the nose to increase
> airspeed and airflow into the engine. I also trimmed the air dam in front
> of #2 to half its original height with zero effect. The problem is not
> unmanageable. I simply monitor the CHT and keep it within limits by
> adjusting throttle, mixture and airspeed. But it is annoying when there
> is
> so much difference between #2 and the rest (which are all pretty close
> together).
>
> I understand Kelly's point below. I will remove the #2 injector and
> inspect/clean. I assume I can replace the existing restrictor with a
> larger
> one.
>
> Cheers,
> Ron
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Monday, 8 February 2010 1:18 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders
>
>
> Unrestricted flow without injectors is NOT meaningful. There would be
> way more flow than you would ever get through the injectors. You need
> to redo the test with injectors after ensuring the offending injector
> is truly clean. Then consult with AFS or GAMI as to revision needed.
>
> On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 6:33 PM, McGann, Ron <Ron.McGann@ausawd.com> wrote:
>>
>> Thx guys - keep the responses coming. I should point out that I did the
> fuel flow test with the fuel lines disconnected from the injectors, so
> this
> is raw flow from the spider down the fuel line only. I don't see how
> adding
> inserts/restrictors is going to help my case.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Ron
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
>> Sent: Monday, 8 February 2010 8:15 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders
>>
>>
>> Not all Bendix injectors are two piece, so you couldn't put inserts in
>> the
> older one piece. And the inserts would not be legal in a certified engine.
> But if AFP system should be no issue.
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 10:47 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> By this, BTW, I mean that the injectors are the same. They're just
>>> injectors. You can buy AFP inserts for your Precision/Bendix
>>> injectors. As far as I know, the AFP difference is in the servo and
>>> spider.
>>>
>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>> Tim Olson wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Precision/bendix is the same thing, so this isn't unique to AFP.
>>>> Tim
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Feb 7, 2010, at 8:55 AM, Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> --> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm not positive, but I think they're only for experimental
>>>>> aircraft. The really neat thing about AF injectors is that they
>>>>> change an insert instead of the whole injector body ..... making it
>>>>> much easier to change the injector orifice on a hot engine.
>>>>> Linn
>>>>>
>>>>> Jim Combs wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Ron,
>>>>>> Airflow Performance has injectors with inserts. Various inserts
>>>>>> have different diameters and will adjust fuel flow. They have a
>>>>>> procedure for checking and adjusting the fuel flows for balance.
>>>>>> You should check them out.
>>>>>> There is no adjustment in the spider.
>>>>>> Jim Combs (N312F)
>>>>>> On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 3:33 AM, Ron McGann
>>>>>> <ronrvbuilder@bigpond.com <mailto:ronrvbuilder@bigpond.com>> wrote:
>>>>>> G'day all,
>>>>>> Since first flight, I have noticed that my #2 cylinder is
>>>>>> consistently hotter than the rest in all modes of flight except
>>>>>> cruise lean of peak. At peak, and lean of peak, #2 is
>>>>>> consistently
>>>>>> cooler than the rest. I concluded that the fuel flow rate to
>>>>>> cylinder 2 was less the rest for some reason. At the suggestion
>>>>>> of
>>>>>> one of our listers, I popped the top cowl and ran the 'coke
>>>>>> bottle
>>>>>> test'. This confirmed that fuel delivery to cylinder 2 was
>>>>>> indeed
>>>>>> about 80% of that to the other cylinders. So, what to
>>>>>> do? I removed the fuel line, cleaned it and could not
>>>>>> find any obvious obstruction. Since the flow test confirmed the
>>>>>> flow out of the line was less than the others, I can only
>>>>>> conclude
>>>>>> that there is a problem with the spider. Are there any
>>>>>> adjustments
>>>>>> that can be made? Sorry if this is a really lame question, but
>>>>>> engines are still a black art to me.
>>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>>> Ron
>>>>>> VH-XRM, flying in Oz *
>>>>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>>>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>>> *
>>>>>> *
>>>>>> *
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders |
A word or warning on the GAMI and AFP side of things....you will very
quickly make yourself a pest by bringing them your little issues
without hard data....taken to their specs. These companies are
justifyably NOT in the "free engine tech support" business. AFP will
be happy to help you swap inserts if you collect proper data, and if
you're a customer, they'd probably answer a couple quick
questions....probably same with GAMI however it's much less likely
that a lycoming RV10 owner will have much to offer them in the area of
becoming a paying customer. Just dropping a problem on these
companies will quickly make you a pest because their business isn't
fixing your engine problems other than helping you either fix issues
with THEIR products, or pick proper injector inserts.
So your proper first contact is probably your engine builder....or if
you just bought some used engine on eBay, then maybe a forum list.
Also, even though we're experimental, A&P's aren't obsolete....I've
paid my old A&P to assist me in fixing things too. Throw them a little
business and you can turn your local A&P from being irritated with you
because you don't bring him annual business, to happy because you're
willing to pay him for some help.
Just pointing out that these vendor/A&P relationships are important to
manage right so you don't turn them off from helping you. Don't just
drop problems on their plate....you'll just tick them off.
Tim
On Feb 8, 2010, at 9:15 AM, "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> I know zilch about this at this point, but I would take the
> recommendation of swapping the #2 injector with a different injector
> from the engine and see if there is a difference. If you still see
> the same results send your info to AFP or GAMI and let them figure
> this out, another option.. do you have a new Lycoming from Vans?
> maybe a call to Lycoming or who ever makes your spider ask if they
> have any ideas..
> I was with a completed builder this weekend and I noticed he had no
> dam on one side, he mentioned that he never modified the injectors
> as the removed dam took care of his issue.. Not sure what the
> specific issue was but sounds like a the symptoms you appear to
> have.. swap out injectors and find a local builder A/P that might be
> able to help.
> Best of success!
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Ron McGann" <ronrvbuilder@bigpond.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 12:00 AM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders
>
>> >
>>
>> Sorry for not being specific - as I said, I'm not an engine guru.
>>
>> When I say 'hot' both CHT and EGT on #2 are higher when running
>> ROP. On
>> takeoff in particular, #2 CHT redlines unless I drop the nose to
>> increase
>> airspeed and airflow into the engine. I also trimmed the air dam
>> in front
>> of #2 to half its original height with zero effect. The problem is
>> not
>> unmanageable. I simply monitor the CHT and keep it within limits by
>> adjusting throttle, mixture and airspeed. But it is annoying when
>> there is
>> so much difference between #2 and the rest (which are all pretty
>> close
>> together).
>>
>> I understand Kelly's point below. I will remove the #2 injector and
>> inspect/clean. I assume I can replace the existing restrictor with
>> a larger
>> one.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Ron
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
>> McMullen
>> Sent: Monday, 8 February 2010 1:18 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders
>>
>>
>> Unrestricted flow without injectors is NOT meaningful. There would be
>> way more flow than you would ever get through the injectors. You need
>> to redo the test with injectors after ensuring the offending injector
>> is truly clean. Then consult with AFS or GAMI as to revision needed.
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 6:33 PM, McGann, Ron <Ron.McGann@ausawd.com>
>> wrote:
>>> >
>>>
>>> Thx guys - keep the responses coming. I should point out that I
>>> did the
>> fuel flow test with the fuel lines disconnected from the injectors,
>> so this
>> is raw flow from the spider down the fuel line only. I don't see
>> how adding
>> inserts/restrictors is going to help my case.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Ron
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
>> McMullen
>>> Sent: Monday, 8 February 2010 8:15 AM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders
>>>
>>>
>>> Not all Bendix injectors are two piece, so you couldn't put
>>> inserts in the
>> older one piece. And the inserts would not be legal in a certified
>> engine.
>> But if AFP system should be no issue.
>>>
>>> On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 10:47 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> By this, BTW, I mean that the injectors are the same. They're just
>>>> injectors. You can buy AFP inserts for your Precision/Bendix
>>>> injectors. As far as I know, the AFP difference is in the servo and
>>>> spider.
>>>>
>>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>>> do not archive
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Tim Olson wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Precision/bendix is the same thing, so this isn't unique to AFP.
>>>>> Tim
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Feb 7, 2010, at 8:55 AM, Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net
>>>>> >
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> --> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'm not positive, but I think they're only for experimental
>>>>>> aircraft. The really neat thing about AF injectors is that they
>>>>>> change an insert instead of the whole injector body .....
>>>>>> making it
>>>>>> much easier to change the injector orifice on a hot engine.
>>>>>> Linn
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Jim Combs wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Ron,
>>>>>>> Airflow Performance has injectors with inserts. Various inserts
>>>>>>> have different diameters and will adjust fuel flow. They have a
>>>>>>> procedure for checking and adjusting the fuel flows for balance.
>>>>>>> You should check them out.
>>>>>>> There is no adjustment in the spider.
>>>>>>> Jim Combs (N312F)
>>>>>>> On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 3:33 AM, Ron McGann
>>>>>>> <ronrvbuilder@bigpond.com <mailto:ronrvbuilder@bigpond.com>>
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>> G'day all,
>>>>>>> Since first flight, I have noticed that my #2 cylinder is
>>>>>>> consistently hotter than the rest in all modes of flight except
>>>>>>> cruise lean of peak. At peak, and lean of peak, #2 is
>>>>>>> consistently
>>>>>>> cooler than the rest. I concluded that the fuel flow rate to
>>>>>>> cylinder 2 was less the rest for some reason. At the
>>>>>>> suggestion
>>>>>>> of
>>>>>>> one of our listers, I popped the top cowl and ran the 'coke
>>>>>>> bottle
>>>>>>> test'. This confirmed that fuel delivery to cylinder 2 was
>>>>>>> indeed
>>>>>>> about 80% of that to the other cylinders. So, what to
>>>>>>> do? I removed the fuel line, cleaned it and could not
>>>>>>> find any obvious obstruction. Since the flow test confirmed
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> flow out of the line was less than the others, I can only
>>>>>>> conclude
>>>>>>> that there is a problem with the spider. Are there any
>>>>>>> adjustments
>>>>>>> that can be made? Sorry if this is a really lame question, but
>>>>>>> engines are still a black art to me.
>>>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>>>> Ron
>>>>>>> VH-XRM, flying in Oz *
>>>>>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>>>>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>>>> *
>>>>>>> *
>>>>>>> *
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders |
Sir Ron,
The injectors can regulate the flow even if the individual injector is
getting a slightly different pressure from the flow divider. Thats the
reason for the different sizes. Its not that one can control all the
variables in the distribution system (Flow divider, fuel lines, etc). The
injector becomes the one point where fuel can be controlled for each
individual cylinder.
The baby jar test is only testing the fuel delivery system assuming no flow
restriction at all due to the injectors. You are in effect measuring the
flow resistance for full fuel flow (Not the normal operating mode of the
fuel system). You really need to do the lean of peak test as described by
AFP and then you can see what the injector change is needed to compensate.
That is where you will be running the engine for the majority of its life
(Assuming cruise at altitude is the "Norm").
The AFP injectors and the process they suggest is the way to go. (My
opinion)
Jim Combs (N312F)
Do Not Archive
On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 8:33 PM, McGann, Ron <Ron.McGann@ausawd.com> wrote:
>
> Thx guys - keep the responses coming. I should point out that I did the
> fuel flow test with the fuel lines disconnected from the injectors, so this
> is raw flow from the spider down the fuel line only. I don't see how adding
> inserts/restrictors is going to help my case.
>
> Cheers,
> Ron
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Monday, 8 February 2010 8:15 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders
>
>
> Not all Bendix injectors are two piece, so you couldn't put inserts in the
> older one piece. And the inserts would not be legal in a certified engine.
> But if AFP system should be no issue.
>
> On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 10:47 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
> >
> > By this, BTW, I mean that the injectors are the same. They're just
> > injectors. You can buy AFP inserts for your Precision/Bendix
> > injectors. As far as I know, the AFP difference is in the servo and
> > spider.
> >
> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> > Tim Olson wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> Precision/bendix is the same thing, so this isn't unique to AFP.
> >> Tim
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Feb 7, 2010, at 8:55 AM, Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>> --> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
> >>>
> >>> I'm not positive, but I think they're only for experimental
> >>> aircraft. The really neat thing about AF injectors is that they
> >>> change an insert instead of the whole injector body ..... making it
> >>> much easier to change the injector orifice on a hot engine.
> >>> Linn
> >>>
> >>> Jim Combs wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Ron,
> >>>> Airflow Performance has injectors with inserts. Various inserts
> >>>> have different diameters and will adjust fuel flow. They have a
> >>>> procedure for checking and adjusting the fuel flows for balance.
> >>>> You should check them out.
> >>>> There is no adjustment in the spider.
> >>>> Jim Combs (N312F)
> >>>> On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 3:33 AM, Ron McGann
> >>>> <ronrvbuilder@bigpond.com <mailto:ronrvbuilder@bigpond.com>> wrote:
> >>>> G'day all,
> >>>> Since first flight, I have noticed that my #2 cylinder is
> >>>> consistently hotter than the rest in all modes of flight except
> >>>> cruise lean of peak. At peak, and lean of peak, #2 is
> >>>> consistently
> >>>> cooler than the rest. I concluded that the fuel flow rate to
> >>>> cylinder 2 was less the rest for some reason. At the suggestion
> >>>> of
> >>>> one of our listers, I popped the top cowl and ran the 'coke
> >>>> bottle
> >>>> test'. This confirmed that fuel delivery to cylinder 2 was
> >>>> indeed
> >>>> about 80% of that to the other cylinders. So, what to
> >>>> do? I removed the fuel line, cleaned it and could not
> >>>> find any obvious obstruction. Since the flow test confirmed the
> >>>> flow out of the line was less than the others, I can only
> >>>> conclude
> >>>> that there is a problem with the spider. Are there any
> >>>> adjustments
> >>>> that can be made? Sorry if this is a really lame question, but
> >>>> engines are still a black art to me.
> >>>> Cheers,
> >>>> Ron
> >>>> VH-XRM, flying in Oz *
> >>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> >>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
> >>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> >>>> *
> >>>> *
> >>>> *
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing |
What does he typically charge?
From: rv@thelefflers.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
To order=2C just send an
email to tjtechart@comcast.net Let Tom know which model you want and wheth
er
you want a limited edition or an open edition print. If you want an open
edition=2C let us know if you want an 18x24 or 24x36. No money is collected
until
the project starts.
From:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Monday=2C February 08=2C 2010 9:11 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
Wow! Where do you sign up for one of
these?? Dan
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
> From: rv@thelefflers.com
> Date: Mon=2C 8 Feb 2010 05:04:56 -0800
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> John=2C
>
> I've been told that Tom looks for about 60 of the giclee prints or severa
l
hundred of the standard prints. As I understand=2C he has about ten orders
for
the RV-10.
>
> Tom was cc'd on my email=2C plus I let him know that I was posting to the
forum. Hopefully=2C he'll drop by and add some comments.
>
> bob
>
> --------
> Bob Leffler
> N410BL - Fuselage
> RV-10 #40684
> mykitlog.com/rleffler
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285321#285321
>
>
>
>
Your
E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. Sign up
now.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders |
I'll second Tim's comments. Your local A/P may have a hard time
wrapping his head around an experimental category 'lack of standards'.
I know, we do have standards, but they're a whole lot different the
certifieds. I have an A/P IA that I use for my annuals on my certified
stuff ..... he's never done work on an experimental until recently.
I've given him guidance and education on more than one occasion, and he
greatly appreciated it. The Lancair that he was working on was a
nightmare, and if he'd taken his first direction, it would be cut up and
in the dump. He was really skeptical of the things we do when
constructing our experimentals, but he finally came around. Your local
A/P would appreciate the experience, I'm sure, and when you need his
help, he won't raid your bank account ..... as bad.
Linn
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> A word or warning on the GAMI and AFP side of things....you will very
> quickly make yourself a pest by bringing them your little issues without
> hard data....taken to their specs. These companies are justifyably NOT
> in the "free engine tech support" business. AFP will be happy to help
> you swap inserts if you collect proper data, and if you're a customer,
> they'd probably answer a couple quick questions....probably same with
> GAMI however it's much less likely that a lycoming RV10 owner will have
> much to offer them in the area of becoming a paying customer. Just
> dropping a problem on these companies will quickly make you a pest
> because their business isn't fixing your engine problems other than
> helping you either fix issues with THEIR products, or pick proper
> injector inserts.
> So your proper first contact is probably your engine builder....or if
> you just bought some used engine on eBay, then maybe a forum list.
> Also, even though we're experimental, A&P's aren't obsolete....I've paid
> my old A&P to assist me in fixing things too. Throw them a little
> business and you can turn your local A&P from being irritated with you
> because you don't bring him annual business, to happy because you're
> willing to pay him for some help.
> Just pointing out that these vendor/A&P relationships are important to
> manage right so you don't turn them off from helping you. Don't just
> drop problems on their plate....you'll just tick them off.
> Tim
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing |
OK. Ordered one possilbly two depending on the price. Dan
From: rv@thelefflers.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
To order=2C just send an
email to tjtechart@comcast.net Let Tom know which model you want and wheth
er
you want a limited edition or an open edition print. If you want an open
edition=2C let us know if you want an 18x24 or 24x36. No money is collected
until
the project starts.
From:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Monday=2C February 08=2C 2010 9:11 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
Wow! Where do you sign up for one of
these?? Dan
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
> From: rv@thelefflers.com
> Date: Mon=2C 8 Feb 2010 05:04:56 -0800
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> John=2C
>
> I've been told that Tom looks for about 60 of the giclee prints or severa
l
hundred of the standard prints. As I understand=2C he has about ten orders
for
the RV-10.
>
> Tom was cc'd on my email=2C plus I let him know that I was posting to the
forum. Hopefully=2C he'll drop by and add some comments.
>
> bob
>
> --------
> Bob Leffler
> N410BL - Fuselage
> RV-10 #40684
> mykitlog.com/rleffler
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285321#285321
>
>
>
>
Your
E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. Sign up
now.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution
_________________________________________________________________
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Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing |
If one looks at Bob's initial e-mail don't forget there is lots of
information as one scrolls down.
Available prints and pricing:
18" X 24" on archival paper.............................................
...$45.00 +S/H**
24" X 36" on archival paper.............................................
...$65.00 +S/H**
Fine-art 24" X 36" limited edition of 100 *giclee
prints..........$200.00 + S/H**
Custom prints: an exclusive cutaway of your personal aircraft with your
paint scheme and specific details. By quote only, the price will be
determined by the complexity of paint scheme and level of detail
desired. A 50% deposit will be required on these special projects to
secure a position in the queue. They will be scheduled in the order
received after completion. Custom cutaways generally range between $500
- $1500. I have done some of these works for Pitts Model 12 customers
and they have been extremely pleased with the final result.
*a giclee is digital print that is the highest quality reproduction
available. These are fine-art prints produced on museum quality
acid-free paper using non-fading special inks. When framed properly,
these prints have non-fading life expectancy of 100 years. These must be
printed one at a time at ultra-high resolution for maximum detail. They
take about 1 hour each to print and are dazzling.
**Shipping and handling includes actual shipping charge and packing
tube. Within the US this is $15.00. Overseas rates vary. (Inquire for
rates)
From: Danny Riggs
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 8:24 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
What does he typically charge?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
From: rv@thelefflers.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
To order, just send an email to tjtechart@comcast.net Let Tom know
which model you want and whether you want a limited edition or an open
edition print. If you want an open edition, let us know if you want an
18x24 or 24x36. No money is collected until the project starts.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 9:11 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
Wow! Where do you sign up for one of these?? Dan
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
> From: rv@thelefflers.com
> Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 05:04:56 -0800
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> John,
>
> I've been told that Tom looks for about 60 of the giclee prints or
several hundred of the standard prints. As I understand, he has about
ten orders for the RV-10.
>
> Tom was cc'd on my email, plus I let him know that I was posting to
the forum. Hopefully, he'll drop by and add some comments.
>
> bob
>
> --------
> Bob Leffler
> N410BL - Fuselage
> RV-10 #40684
> mykitlog.com/rleffler
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285321#285321
>
>
>
>
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-------
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tp://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigatwww.matronics.com/contribution">http://ww
w.matronics.com/contribution
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Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: New Door Latch Video S.B. replacement |
Please put me on your list.
James Stribling
40140
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Thyssen
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 9:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: New Door Latch Video S.B. replacement
I would be very interested in getting one. Let us know what the cost is.
Patrick Thyssen
n15pt
40257
--- On Sat, 2/6/10, Strasnuts <sean@braunandco.com> wrote:
From: Strasnuts <sean@braunandco.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: New Door Latch Video S.B. replacement
Thanks Robert.
It could be retro-fitted. The only new holes are four screw holes, a 5/16
hole to tighten a screw and an opening in the bottom of the door to slide in
the mechanism which is about 2-1/8 inches x 3/4 which could be filled in
with a fiberglass piece.
I'm thinking about making a bunch of these and having the builders install
them.
Haven't thought about cost.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285102#285102
--> ht= <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
"http://forums.matronics.com" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.;
- List Contribution Web Site -
p; &nref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" ======
Message 17
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| Subject: | RV10 Transition Training |
Fellow RV10 builders.....
If you are in need of RV10 Transition Training on the East Coast, I can help you out. I use Van's Aircraft N220RV that is based at St Mary's airport (2W6) in Maryland. For more information, check out my website at http://www.zackair.com/.
Thanks
Joe Czachorowski
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285378#285378
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing |
Are these a "one time only" offer? I'm considering 3 prints (one of
each, including the limited edition) but would like to see what I'm
getting before committing to that much money.
Bill
From: Bob Leffler
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 1:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
I don't know how many folks have followed the Cutaway RV Drawing thread
on VAF. (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=38927)
I have taken an interest and wanted to share with the RV-10 community
to gather more interest.
Here is an example of the RV-7A Slider:
To get a RV-10 version commissioned and started, Tom needs a
demonstrated interest from the RV-10 community. I'm interested in
getting one and I thought I would post here to encourage others that
may be interested to order as well.
To order, just send an email to tjtechart@comcast.net and let Tom know
which model you want and whether you want a limited edition or an open
edition print. If you want an open edition, let us know if you want an
18x24 or 24x36. No money is collected until the project starts.
The following is an overview of what's involved in the project and the
different types of prints available.
Research (approximately 50 hours including travel)
Access to engineering plans and actual RV's. I have already contacted
Vans' Aircraft who have given me a thumbs up "go", and they are willing
to provide access to plans. I'm confident there are enough RVs in the
Portland area for final close-up access to a finished plane(s).
Hand created draft (about 200 hours)
Pencil the detailed draft. This is the phase that makes my art unique. I
do this phase by hand because it adds a unique perspective and fine art
quality-like Leonardo DaVinci. Also because it's more like building the
real plane, which is essentially what I must do to create these images.
Final details and painting (about 100 hours)
Load the draft into the computer for completion and painting.
Send to the Printer.
Tom will bill the retainer through PayPal once the required number of
orders is reached.
Once all retainers (50%) have been received, I will schedule in the
project, which will take approximately 8 weeks to complete.
Available prints and pricing:
18" X 24" on archival paper.............................................
...$45.00 +S/H**
24" X 36" on archival paper.............................................
...$65.00 +S/H**
Fine-art 24" X 36" limited edition of 100 *giclee
prints..........$200.00 + S/H**
Custom prints: an exclusive cutaway of your personal aircraft with your
paint scheme and specific details. By quote only, the price will be
determined by the complexity of paint scheme and level of detail
desired. A 50% deposit will be required on these special projects to
secure a position in the queue. They will be scheduled in the order
received after completion. Custom cutaways generally range between $500
- $1500. I have done some of these works for Pitts Model 12 customers
and they have been extremely pleased with the final result.
*a giclee is digital print that is the highest quality reproduction
available. These are fine-art prints produced on museum quality
acid-free paper using non-fading special inks. When framed properly,
these prints have non-fading life expectancy of 100 years. These must be
printed one at a time at ultra-high resolution for maximum detail. They
take about 1 hour each to print and are dazzling.
**Shipping and handling includes actual shipping charge and packing
tube. Within the US this is $15.00. Overseas rates vary. (Inquire for
rates)
Artwork is always copyrighted with all rights retained by TJTechArt,
Inc.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: New Door Latch Video S.B. replacement |
Add me to your list also. Would like to know a ballpark price before
committing but this looks like the best solution I've seen so far.
Bill Britton
40137
From: James Stribling
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 10:52 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: New Door Latch Video S.B. replacement
Please put me on your list.
James Stribling
40140
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick
Thyssen
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 9:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: New Door Latch Video S.B. replacement
I would be very interested in getting one. Let us know what the
cost is.
Patrick Thyssen
n15pt
40257
--- On Sat, 2/6/10, Strasnuts <sean@braunandco.com> wrote:
From: Strasnuts <sean@braunandco.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: New Door Latch Video S.B. replacement
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Date: Saturday, February 6, 2010, 2:33 PM
Thanks Robert.
It could be retro-fitted. The only new holes are four screw
holes, a 5/16 hole to tighten a screw and an opening in the bottom of
the door to slide in the mechanism which is about 2-1/8 inches x 3/4
which could be filled in with a fiberglass piece.
I'm thinking about making a bunch of these and having the builders
install them.
Haven't thought about cost.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285102#285102
--> ht="http://forums.matronics.com"
target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.; - List Contribution
Web Site -
p;
&nref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" ======
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: New Door Latch Video S.B. replacement |
Guys, the "add me to your list" thing isn't what they want....
they want you to EMAIL THEM directly.
Refer to Bob's post:
"To order, just send an email to tjtechart@comcast.net Let Tom know
which model you want and whether you want a limited edition or an open
edition print. If you want an open edition, let us know if you want an
18x24 or 24x36. No money is collected until the project starts."
Tim
Billy & Tami Britton wrote:
> Add me to your list also. Would like to know a ballpark price before
> committing but this looks like the best solution I've seen so far.
>
> Bill Britton
> 40137
>
> *From:* James Stribling <mailto:jlstrib@comcast.net>
> *Sent:* Monday, February 08, 2010 10:52 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: New Door Latch Video S.B. replacement
>
> Please put me on your list.
>
>
>
> James Stribling
>
> 40140
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick Thyssen
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 07, 2010 9:22 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: New Door Latch Video S.B. replacement
>
>
>
> I would be very interested in getting one. Let us know what the cost is.
> Patrick Thyssen
> n15pt
> 40257
>
> --- On *Sat, 2/6/10, Strasnuts /<sean@braunandco.com>/* wrote:
>
>
> From: Strasnuts <sean@braunandco.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: New Door Latch Video S.B. replacement
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, February 6, 2010, 2:33 PM
>
> </mc/compose?to=sean@braunandco.com>>
>
> Thanks Robert.
> It could be retro-fitted. The only new holes are four screw holes, a
> 5/16 hole to tighten a screw and an opening in the bottom of the door to
> slide in the mechanism which is about 2-1/8 inches x 3/4 which could be
> filled in with a fiberglass piece.
> I'm thinking about making a bunch of these and having the builders
> install them.
> Haven't thought about cost.
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285102#285102
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --> ht="http://forums.matronics.com"
> target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.; - List Contribution
> Web Site -
> p; &nref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" ======
>
>
>
>
> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
>
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> * *
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: New Door Latch Video S.B. replacement |
I'm excited from all the interest and I am getting the ball rolling for production.
I outfitted my second door and it works great.
__________________
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285388#285388
Message 22
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It's a little early, I usually wait until at least May for that. There's n
o advantage to getting started this early, I just need money in hand before
staking the sites which in the past has been about a week (within a day or
two) before OSH starts. Feel free to contact me offline if any questions
but I don't expect the details to be too much different from prior years -
just do a search through the archives and you'll find all the info.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 10:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH camping
is anyone taking reservations for camping this year? we haven't decided on
hotel or tent. Expect to arrive Sunday and leave Wednesday. Probably can te
nt camp with the spam cans. Probably be better to camp in Scholer in RV10 v
illage.
Message 23
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I have not talked to Bob Condry yet, but in any case it is quite early.
After we have a chance to get out ducks in a row Bob or I will post the
details again on the list. Stay tuned.
Gary Specketer
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 11:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH camping
is anyone taking reservations for camping this year? we haven't decided on
hotel or tent. Expect to arrive Sunday and leave Wednesday. Probably can
tent camp with the spam cans. Probably be better to camp in Scholer in RV10
village.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield fairing |
Couple things:
If you stagger the initial, narrower, strips as they begin to spread out on
the flatter, vertical sides of the fuse, you'll avoid a lump in the middle
of the lay-up. You'll see that if you follow the same technique as shown in
the plans all the way from the middle of the windshield to the door frame,
you end up with a LOT of fiberglass all concentrated at the center of the
strip. That's not necessary. Spread the layers out so they go one above,
one below, etc. Even staggering the layers, you'll end up with a high spot
near the door frame, but it's manageable.
And, if you cut all those strips on a 45* angle to the edge of your cloth,
it'll be a lot easier to manage them when you start working them into the
layup.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 8:53 PM, Dave Leikam <daveleikam@wi.rr.com> wrote:
> I am about to make my windshield fairing. Are there any tips or pointers
> anyone would like to share before I begin?
> I am using black dye in the epoxy.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA
> Muskego, WI
> do not archive
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield fairing |
To eliminate the high spot near the door frame that Dave mentioned I cut the first
4 layers full length, then shortened each additional layer by 1" at each end.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285405#285405
Message 26
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| Subject: | Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders |
Curious how many other builders are graduates of AFP training? Training
is worth both the time, money and contact relationships built. (Looking
forward to the day that the Air Group flies to OZ so I can meet with
Ron.)
As Tim mentions the process is multi stepped. #1 correctly collect the
data points. #2 make the initial restrictor sizing changes. #3 Retest
for adjusted data.... as one is restricted, the others will change in
relation to the first. #4 Resize a second or third time. #5 Retest.
#6 They are in the business of making a profit... use their time wisely.
Tim, this is a great time to post on your site the procedure to
correctly collect the data points.
John Cox
graduate - "Class of November, 2009"
A&P with IA who will travel within reason within 100 miles of any
airport served by Alaska Air to assist in restrictor resizing of
Precision (Bendix) RSA5 or 10 and AFP Fuel delivery systems.
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders
A word or warning on the GAMI and AFP side of things....you will very
quickly make yourself a pest by bringing them your little issues
without hard data....taken to their specs. These companies are
justifiably NOT in the "free engine tech support" business. AFP will
be happy to help you swap inserts if you collect proper data, and if
you're a customer, they'd probably answer a couple quick
questions....probably same with GAMI however it's much less likely
that a Lycoming RV10 owner will have much to offer them in the area of
becoming a paying customer. Just dropping a problem on these
companies will quickly make you a pest because their business isn't
fixing your engine problems other than helping you either fix issues
with THEIR products, or pick proper injector inserts.
So your proper first contact is probably your engine builder....or if
you just bought some used engine on eBay, then maybe a forum list.
Also, even though we're experimental, A&P's aren't obsolete....I've
paid my old A&P to assist me in fixing things too. Throw them a little
business and you can turn your local A&P from being irritated with you
because you don't bring him annual business, to happy because you're
willing to pay him for some help.
Just pointing out that these vendor/A&P relationships are important to
manage right so you don't turn them off from helping you. Don't just
drop problems on their plate....you'll just tick them off.
Tim
Message 27
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| Subject: | RV-10 Cutaway Drawing |
Bill,
I suggest you contact Tom directly as well as reading the existing thread on
VAF that I included in the original posting. Tom has already delivered
multiple RV drawings to date. He's been very forthright about the process
and the cost. I have no doubt that if Tom starts the RV-10, it will be of
similar quality as his previous offerings.
The giclee prints are indeed limited to the first one hundred. The others
are available as prints as long as Tom wants to sell them.
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami
Britton
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
Are these a "one time only" offer? I'm considering 3 prints (one of each,
including the limited edition) but would like to see what I'm getting before
committing to that much money.
Bill
From: Bob Leffler <mailto:rv@thelefflers.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 1:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
I don't know how many folks have followed the Cutaway RV Drawing thread on
VAF. (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=38927) I have
taken an interest and wanted to share with the RV-10 community to gather
more interest.
Here is an example of the RV-7A Slider:
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/9931/rv7aflatsliderfinale.jpg
To get a RV-10 version commissioned and started, Tom needs a demonstrated
interest from the RV-10 community. I'm interested in getting one and I
thought I would post here to encourage others that may be interested to
order as well.
To order, just send an email to tjtechart@comcast.net and let Tom know which
model you want and whether you want a limited edition or an open edition
print. If you want an open edition, let us know if you want an 18x24 or
24x36. No money is collected until the project starts.
The following is an overview of what's involved in the project and the
different types of prints available.
Research (approximately 50 hours including travel)
Access to engineering plans and actual RV's. I have already contacted Vans'
Aircraft who have given me a thumbs up "go", and they are willing to provide
access to plans. I'm confident there are enough RVs in the Portland area for
final close-up access to a finished plane(s).
Hand created draft (about 200 hours)
Pencil the detailed draft. This is the phase that makes my art unique. I do
this phase by hand because it adds a unique perspective and fine art
quality-like Leonardo DaVinci. Also because it's more like building the real
plane, which is essentially what I must do to create these images.
Final details and painting (about 100 hours)
Load the draft into the computer for completion and painting.
Send to the Printer.
Tom will bill the retainer through PayPal once the required number of orders
is reached.
Once all retainers (50%) have been received, I will schedule in the
project, which will take approximately 8 weeks to complete.
Available prints and pricing:
18" X 24" on archival paper.............................................
...$45.00 +S/H**
24" X 36" on archival paper.............................................
...$65.00 +S/H**
Fine-art 24" X 36" limited edition of 100 *giclee prints..........$200.00 +
S/H**
Custom prints: an exclusive cutaway of your personal aircraft with your
paint scheme and specific details. By quote only, the price will be
determined by the complexity of paint scheme and level of detail desired. A
50% deposit will be required on these special projects to secure a position
in the queue. They will be scheduled in the order received after completion.
Custom cutaways generally range between $500 - $1500. I have done some of
these works for Pitts Model 12 customers and they have been extremely
pleased with the final result.
*a giclee is digital print that is the highest quality reproduction
available. These are fine-art prints produced on museum quality acid-free
paper using non-fading special inks. When framed properly, these prints have
non-fading life expectancy of 100 years. These must be printed one at a time
at ultra-high resolution for maximum detail. They take about 1 hour each to
print and are dazzling.
**Shipping and handling includes actual shipping charge and packing tube.
Within the US this is $15.00. Overseas rates vary. (Inquire for rates)
Artwork is always copyrighted with all rights retained by TJTechArt, Inc.
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Adjusting fuel flow to cylinders |
Along the same line as Tim's comments. I had AFP overhaul my Bendix servo
(And the entire fuel system on the engine). I now am running with their
flow divider and injectors. Yes I paid for the injector nozzles ($25 Each)
when I balanced my injectors. I am their customer and am very happy with
their service. I didn't expect it to be free.
I have a local A/P that allows me to borrow special tools every now and
then. I don't make a habit of it and offer to pay him for his time and
services. He is wanting a ride in the -10 and as soon as we get the chance,
it will happen. He stays busy.
Jim C (N312F - Flying 145 Hours)
Do Not Archive
On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 11:27 AM, Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>wrote:
>
> I'll second Tim's comments. Your local A/P may have a hard time wrapping
> his head around an experimental category 'lack of standards'. I know, we do
> have standards, but they're a whole lot different the certifieds. I have an
> A/P IA that I use for my annuals on my certified stuff ..... he's never done
> work on an experimental until recently. I've given him guidance and
> education on more than one occasion, and he greatly appreciated it. The
> Lancair that he was working on was a nightmare, and if he'd taken his first
> direction, it would be cut up and in the dump. He was really skeptical of
> the things we do when constructing our experimentals, but he finally came
> around. Your local A/P would appreciate the experience, I'm sure, and when
> you need his help, he won't raid your bank account ..... as bad.
> Linn
>
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> A word or warning on the GAMI and AFP side of things....you will very
>> quickly make yourself a pest by bringing them your little issues without
>> hard data....taken to their specs. These companies are justifyably NOT in
>> the "free engine tech support" business. AFP will be happy to help you swap
>> inserts if you collect proper data, and if you're a customer, they'd
>> probably answer a couple quick questions....probably same with GAMI however
>> it's much less likely that a lycoming RV10 owner will have much to offer
>> them in the area of becoming a paying customer. Just dropping a problem on
>> these companies will quickly make you a pest because their business isn't
>> fixing your engine problems other than helping you either fix issues with
>> THEIR products, or pick proper injector inserts.
>> So your proper first contact is probably your engine builder....or if you
>> just bought some used engine on eBay, then maybe a forum list. Also, even
>> though we're experimental, A&P's aren't obsolete....I've paid my old A&P to
>> assist me in fixing things too. Throw them a little business and you can
>> turn your local A&P from being irritated with you because you don't bring
>> him annual business, to happy because you're willing to pay him for some
>> help.
>> Just pointing out that these vendor/A&P relationships are important to
>> manage right so you don't turn them off from helping you. Don't just drop
>> problems on their plate....you'll just tick them off.
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 29
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Is there a need to have the fiberglass tips removable and is it a good idea to
reinforce the 1/2 inch edge with carbon fiber to hold the fasteners
Russell Shavitz
Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
office: 847-678-1000
cell: 847-417-6622
www.shavitz.com
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield fairing |
I went with the aluminum fairing from M.L.Skunkworks. Worked out great.
John
--------
#40572 QB. Engine on, wing attach coming soon. Panel delivery soon.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285422#285422
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/picture_1_397.png
Message 31
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Carbon fiber, unlike fiberglass cloth promotes corrosion of some fasteners. All
decisions contain trade-offs.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Shavitz
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 11:07 AM
Subject: RV10-List: fiberglass tips
Is there a need to have the fiberglass tips removable and is it a good idea to
reinforce the 1/2 inch edge with carbon fiber to hold the fasteners
Russell Shavitz
Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
office: 847-678-1000
cell: 847-417-6622
www.shavitz.com
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: fiberglass tips |
I've had mine off many times. Mine have landing lights, strobes, nav
lights, two antennas, and a magnetometer in them. The OAT probes and AOA
ports are just inboard. Plus you get a really nice view inside the wing for
inspections.
I used the standard construction without any reinforcement and they're
holding up very well.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 11:07 AM, Russell Shavitz <rashvac@earthlink.net>wrote:
>
> Is there a need to have the fiberglass tips removable and is it a good
> idea to reinforce the 1/2 inch edge with carbon fiber to hold the fasteners
>
> Russell Shavitz
> Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
> 4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
> office: 847-678-1000
> cell: 847-417-6622
> www.shavitz.com
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield fairing |
You need to do another fiberglass video on EAA homebuilders site on how
to do this technique correctly!!
Thanks for that info.
Pascal
From: Dave Saylor
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield fairing
Couple things:
If you stagger the initial, narrower, strips as they begin to spread out
on the flatter, vertical sides of the fuse, you'll avoid a lump in the
middle of the lay-up. You'll see that if you follow the same technique
as shown in the plans all the way from the middle of the windshield to
the door frame, you end up with a LOT of fiberglass all concentrated at
the center of the strip. That's not necessary. Spread the layers out
so they go one above, one below, etc. Even staggering the layers,
you'll end up with a high spot near the door frame, but it's manageable.
And, if you cut all those strips on a 45* angle to the edge of your
cloth, it'll be a lot easier to manage them when you start working them
into the layup.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 8:53 PM, Dave Leikam <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
wrote:
I am about to make my windshield fairing. Are there any tips or
pointers anyone would like to share before I begin?
I am using black dye in the epoxy.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
do not archive
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 34
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Phill
Can you send me the contact info for those cabins trying to get reservations
confirmed now for this summer.
You can send them to me off list if you like
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider40864 emp primering
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 4:48 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OSH camping
We picked up a cabin in Sleepy Hollow Farms a few weeks ago. They still had
plenty available for those who are interested.
And it's located on the field - just behind the outdoor movie theater.
Phil
From: DLM [mailto:dlm46007@cox.net]
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 10:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH camping
is anyone taking reservations for camping this year? we haven't decided on
hotel or tent. Expect to arrive Sunday and leave Wednesday. Probably can
tent camp with the spam cans. Probably be better to camp in Scholer in RV10
village.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield fairing |
rv10builder(at)verizon.ne wrote:
> You need to do another fiberglass video on EAA homebuilders site on how to do
this technique correctly!!
> Thanks for that info.
> Pascal
>
Better yet, go to one of Daves classes. Sure saved me DAYS of work and did it
right the first time.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285455#285455
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield fairing |
Sure, that would be great. Let EAA know you want to see more and maybe we
can arrange a complete video. We did that while we were at AirVenture.
They had a professional studio set up in a workshop and they were making
several videos every day.
The technique with the plastic shown in the video would work fine on the
windscreen. It makes things a lot neater. There's no reason you couldn't
do a couple layers at a time in one sandwich. Or, if it's fairly cool in
the shop, say, 60 or below, you could make a large section of sandwich and
then cut your strips out of the sandwich. But it has to be pretty cool cuz
it's a lot of resin to have laid out at one time. If it's too warm it might
start to set up. The windscreen fairing takes several hours, and it's good
to have some extra hands available. The strips are pretty long and can get
kind of unruly. But the plastic makes it much easier.
(video on sandwich method here: http://tinyurl.com/yhe4upe)
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 12:30 PM, Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
> You need to do another fiberglass video on EAA homebuilders site on how
> to do this technique correctly!!
> Thanks for that info.
> Pascal
>
> *From:* Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, February 08, 2010 10:32 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Windshield fairing
>
> Couple things:
>
> If you stagger the initial, narrower, strips as they begin to spread out on
> the flatter, vertical sides of the fuse, you'll avoid a lump in the middle
> of the lay-up. You'll see that if you follow the same technique as shown in
> the plans all the way from the middle of the windshield to the door frame,
> you end up with a LOT of fiberglass all concentrated at the center of the
> strip. That's not necessary. Spread the layers out so they go one above,
> one below, etc. Even staggering the layers, you'll end up with a high spot
> near the door frame, but it's manageable.
>
> And, if you cut all those strips on a 45* angle to the edge of your cloth,
> it'll be a lot easier to manage them when you start working them into the
> layup.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 8:53 PM, Dave Leikam <daveleikam@wi.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> I am about to make my windshield fairing. Are there any tips or
>> pointers anyone would like to share before I begin?
>> I am using black dye in the epoxy.
>>
>> Dave Leikam
>> RV-10 #40496
>> N89DA
>> Muskego, WI
>> do not archive
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Windshield fairing |
The downside of doing the poly method on a bench and then transferring it to
the plane is that the whole layup can kick off on you if you move too slowly
or the temp is too high. That is why laying up on the plane is preferable
in my mind. It also allows you to adjust ply length to suit the area you
are working in, such as Dave describes for staggering the layers along the
door frame. Mix your resin in small batches and make sure they don't kick
off on you. However it is quite acceptable to have the lower layers of a
layup start to cure while you are working on the upper layers. In a Glasair
III for example the motor mount attach area has a layup of 25 ply. You
start at the bottom and work continuously upward mixing the resin in small
batches as you go.
Gary Specketer
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 4:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield fairing
Sure, that would be great. Let EAA know you want to see more and maybe we
can arrange a complete video. We did that while we were at AirVenture.
They had a professional studio set up in a workshop and they were making
several videos every day.
The technique with the plastic shown in the video would work fine on the
windscreen. It makes things a lot neater. There's no reason you couldn't
do a couple layers at a time in one sandwich. Or, if it's fairly cool in
the shop, say, 60 or below, you could make a large section of sandwich and
then cut your strips out of the sandwich. But it has to be pretty cool cuz
it's a lot of resin to have laid out at one time. If it's too warm it might
start to set up. The windscreen fairing takes several hours, and it's good
to have some extra hands available. The strips are pretty long and can get
kind of unruly. But the plastic makes it much easier.
(video on sandwich method here: http://tinyurl.com/yhe4upe)
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 12:30 PM, Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
You need to do another fiberglass video on EAA homebuilders site on how to
do this technique correctly!!
Thanks for that info.
Pascal
From: Dave Saylor <mailto:dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield fairing
Couple things:
If you stagger the initial, narrower, strips as they begin to spread out on
the flatter, vertical sides of the fuse, you'll avoid a lump in the middle
of the lay-up. You'll see that if you follow the same technique as shown in
the plans all the way from the middle of the windshield to the door frame,
you end up with a LOT of fiberglass all concentrated at the center of the
strip. That's not necessary. Spread the layers out so they go one above,
one below, etc. Even staggering the layers, you'll end up with a high spot
near the door frame, but it's manageable.
And, if you cut all those strips on a 45* angle to the edge of your cloth,
it'll be a lot easier to manage them when you start working them into the
layup.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 8:53 PM, Dave Leikam <daveleikam@wi.rr.com> wrote:
I am about to make my windshield fairing. Are there any tips or pointers
anyone would like to share before I begin?
I am using black dye in the epoxy.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
do not archive
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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| Subject: | Windshield fairing |
Dave,
Thanks for the help. We too are about to start on the windscreen. What
exactly is the "plastic".
Thanks,
Rick
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield fairing
Sure, that would be great. Let EAA know you want to see more and maybe we
can arrange a complete video. We did that while we were at AirVenture.
They had a professional studio set up in a workshop and they were making
several videos every day.
The technique with the plastic shown in the video would work fine on the
windscreen. It makes things a lot neater. There's no reason you couldn't
do a couple layers at a time in one sandwich. Or, if it's fairly cool in
the shop, say, 60 or below, you could make a large section of sandwich and
then cut your strips out of the sandwich. But it has to be pretty cool cuz
it's a lot of resin to have laid out at one time. If it's too warm it might
start to set up. The windscreen fairing takes several hours, and it's good
to have some extra hands available. The strips are pretty long and can get
kind of unruly. But the plastic makes it much easier.
(video on sandwich method here: http://tinyurl.com/yhe4upe)
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 12:30 PM, Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
You need to do another fiberglass video on EAA homebuilders site on how to
do this technique correctly!!
Thanks for that info.
Pascal
From: Dave Saylor <mailto:dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield fairing
Couple things:
If you stagger the initial, narrower, strips as they begin to spread out on
the flatter, vertical sides of the fuse, you'll avoid a lump in the middle
of the lay-up. You'll see that if you follow the same technique as shown in
the plans all the way from the middle of the windshield to the door frame,
you end up with a LOT of fiberglass all concentrated at the center of the
strip. That's not necessary. Spread the layers out so they go one above,
one below, etc. Even staggering the layers, you'll end up with a high spot
near the door frame, but it's manageable.
And, if you cut all those strips on a 45* angle to the edge of your cloth,
it'll be a lot easier to manage them when you start working them into the
layup.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 8:53 PM, Dave Leikam <daveleikam@wi.rr.com> wrote:
I am about to make my windshield fairing. Are there any tips or pointers
anyone would like to share before I begin?
I am using black dye in the epoxy.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
do not archive
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 39
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Google's your friend :)........
http://www.sleepyhollowfarm.com/
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 3:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OSH camping
Phill
Can you send me the contact info for those cabins trying to get reservation
s confirmed now for this summer.
You can send them to me off list if you like
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider40864 emp primering
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 4:48 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OSH camping
We picked up a cabin in Sleepy Hollow Farms a few weeks ago... They still
had plenty available for those who are interested...
And it's located on the field - just behind the outdoor movie theater.
Phil
From: DLM [mailto:dlm46007@cox.net]
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 10:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH camping
is anyone taking reservations for camping this year? we haven't decided on
hotel or tent. Expect to arrive Sunday and leave Wednesday. Probably can te
nt camp with the spam cans. Probably be better to camp in Scholer in RV10 v
illage.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
&nbssp; - The RV10-List Email Forum utilities such as List Photoshare,
and much much --> http://www.matronic===========
======<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
<nbsp; -MATRONICSWEBFORUMSviatheWeb --><http://www.matronics.com/Naviga
tor?RV10-List>http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web ge
nerous nbsp; -Matt Dralle, List href="http://www.m
atronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 40
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| Subject: | Windshield fairing |
This may be too obvious=2C but make sure you etch your aluminum. It makes a
huge difference in the adhesion strength. Score it with the sandpaper=2C c
lean it with the solvent=2C then etch and wash.
From: daveleikam@wi.rr.com
Subject: RV10-List: Windshield fairing
I am about to make my windshield fairing. Are there any tips or pointers a
nyone would like to share before I begin?
I am using black dye in the epoxy.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego=2C WI
do not archive
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield fairing |
I really do think having those videos are a great reference, I liked
your presentation and based on the feedback I heard from a couple
builders who came to your class it shows you do an excellent job
explaining how to do these things.
As a reference for many I use those hotel cards, the ones one gets for
the doors, and use them for spreading out the resin over the cloth the
good thing about this is once they get dirty, which shouldn't be too
often if one uses plastic to sandwich the cloth/resin, it can be tossed.
I also so a whole lot of the spreaders at HF for a few dollars so
certainly a great suggestion Dave makes about using them.
Thanks Dave!
Pascal
From: Dave Saylor
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield fairing
Sure, that would be great. Let EAA know you want to see more and maybe
we can arrange a complete video. We did that while we were at
AirVenture. They had a professional studio set up in a workshop and
they were making several videos every day.
The technique with the plastic shown in the video would work fine on the
windscreen. It makes things a lot neater. There's no reason you
couldn't do a couple layers at a time in one sandwich. Or, if it's
fairly cool in the shop, say, 60 or below, you could make a large
section of sandwich and then cut your strips out of the sandwich. But
it has to be pretty cool cuz it's a lot of resin to have laid out at one
time. If it's too warm it might start to set up. The windscreen
fairing takes several hours, and it's good to have some extra hands
available. The strips are pretty long and can get kind of unruly. But
the plastic makes it much easier.
(video on sandwich method here: http://tinyurl.com/yhe4upe)
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 12:30 PM, Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
You need to do another fiberglass video on EAA homebuilders site on
how to do this technique correctly!!
Thanks for that info.
Pascal
From: Dave Saylor
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 10:32 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield fairing
Couple things:
If you stagger the initial, narrower, strips as they begin to spread
out on the flatter, vertical sides of the fuse, you'll avoid a lump in
the middle of the lay-up. You'll see that if you follow the same
technique as shown in the plans all the way from the middle of the
windshield to the door frame, you end up with a LOT of fiberglass all
concentrated at the center of the strip. That's not necessary. Spread
the layers out so they go one above, one below, etc. Even staggering
the layers, you'll end up with a high spot near the door frame, but it's
manageable.
And, if you cut all those strips on a 45* angle to the edge of your
cloth, it'll be a lot easier to manage them when you start working them
into the layup.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 8:53 PM, Dave Leikam <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
wrote:
I am about to make my windshield fairing. Are there any tips or
pointers anyone would like to share before I begin?
I am using black dye in the epoxy.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
do not archive
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 42
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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PQ0KDQoNCg=
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield fairing |
We use a very thin painter's plastic:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1279480
That's a big box and it would last a LONG time. Just about any kind of
plastic drop cloth would work. The plastic in the video was much thicker
than what we normally use, and it was still easy to work with.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 2:29 PM, Richard Barnes <
rickbarnes@highlanddental.com> wrote:
> Dave,
>
>
> Thanks for the help. We too are about to start on the windscreen. What
> exactly is the =93plastic=94.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Rick
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave Saylor
> *Sent:* Monday, February 08, 2010 2:44 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Windshield fairing
>
>
> Sure, that would be great. Let EAA know you want to see more and maybe w
e
> can arrange a complete video. We did that while we were at AirVenture.
> They had a professional studio set up in a workshop and they were making
> several videos every day.
>
> The technique with the plastic shown in the video would work fine on the
> windscreen. It makes things a lot neater. There's no reason you couldn'
t
> do a couple layers at a time in one sandwich. Or, if it's fairly cool in
> the shop, say, 60 or below, you could make a large section of sandwich an
d
> then cut your strips out of the sandwich. But it has to be pretty cool c
uz
> it's a lot of resin to have laid out at one time. If it's too warm it mi
ght
> start to set up. The windscreen fairing takes several hours, and it's go
od
> to have some extra hands available. The strips are pretty long and can g
et
> kind of unruly. But the plastic makes it much easier.
>
> (video on sandwich method here: http://tinyurl.com/yhe4upe)
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
> On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 12:30 PM, Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> You need to do another fiberglass video on EAA homebuilders site on how t
o
> do this technique correctly!!
>
> Thanks for that info.
>
> Pascal
>
>
> *From:* Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
>
> *Sent:* Monday, February 08, 2010 10:32 AM
>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Windshield fairing
>
>
> Couple things:
>
> If you stagger the initial, narrower, strips as they begin to spread out
on
> the flatter, vertical sides of the fuse, you'll avoid a lump in the middl
e
> of the lay-up. You'll see that if you follow the same technique as shown
in
> the plans all the way from the middle of the windshield to the door frame
,
> you end up with a LOT of fiberglass all concentrated at the center of the
> strip. That's not necessary. Spread the layers out so they go one above
,
> one below, etc. Even staggering the layers, you'll end up with a high sp
ot
> near the door frame, but it's manageable.
>
> And, if you cut all those strips on a 45* angle to the edge of your cloth
,
> it'll be a lot easier to manage them when you start working them into the
> layup.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
> On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 8:53 PM, Dave Leikam <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
> wrote:
>
> I am about to make my windshield fairing. Are there any tips or
> pointers anyone would like to share before I begin?
>
> I am using black dye in the epoxy.
>
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA
> Muskego, WI
>
> do not archive
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
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>
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>
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>
> * *
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
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cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> *href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/
c*
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> *tp://forums.matronics.com*
>
> *_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
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>
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>
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Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: fiberglass tips |
I drew the trim line on my tips and used a Fein to cut it off. I then had a nice
1" wide strip of trimmed off material that I sanded the jell coat side rough,
sanded the inside of the tip rough, then floxed the strip in as a doubler and
clamped it every 2" with spring clamps. After cure I cleaned up the squeeze
out and squared up the edge again with a file and fitted the tip. Drilled and
clecoed as I went along , then final drilled the screw holes, removed the tip
and installed the nutplates in a nice double thick lip. I would have liked a 5/8-3/4"
recess for the tip instead of the 1/2" Vans provides, so I feel much better
with the edge doubled up on thickness. I used the factory wing tip landing
lights and left enough service loop in the wiring that I should be able to
do all light maintenance with the tip still on working through the landing light
cutout.
David Clifford
RV-10 In Progress
Empennage Done
Engine Overhauled & Pickled
Closing up The Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Saylor" <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, February 8, 2010 3:20:07 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fiberglass tips
I've had mine off many times. Mine have landing lights, strobes, nav lights, two
antennas, and a magnetometer in them. The OAT probes and AOA ports are just
inboard. Plus you get a really nice view inside the wing for inspections.
I used the standard construction without any reinforcement and they're holding
up very well.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 11:07 AM, Russell Shavitz < rashvac@earthlink.net > wrote:
Is there a need to have the fiberglass tips removable and is it a good idea to
reinforce the 1/2 inch edge with carbon fiber to hold the fasteners
Russell Shavitz
Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
office: 847-678-1000
cell: 847-417-6622
www.shavitz.com
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Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Transition Training |
Little different subject... but I have a flying RV10.... but I also have a
42' Catamarran.... anyway, we have sailed and stayed in the bay at St. Mary
's college several times.... wish we would have known you were there.- Ho
w far is the airport from the college?- Anyway, welcome aboard.... took m
y transition training from Alex a year ago.
Don McDonald
based in Calif, but considering a move to Texas.
--- On Mon, 2/8/10, zackrv8 <zackrv8@verizon.net> wrote:
From: zackrv8 <zackrv8@verizon.net>
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 Transition Training
Fellow RV10 builders.....
- - - If you are in need of RV10 Transition Training on the East Coas
t, I can help you out.- I use Van's Aircraft N220RV that is based at St M
ary's airport (2W6) in Maryland.- For more information, check out my webs
ite at- http://www.zackair.com/.
Thanks
Joe Czachorowski
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285378#285378
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 46
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| Subject: | Installing main gear leg fairings first |
Hi, all... I'm planning on doing my landing gear fairings after I'm flying.
That said, while I have the fuselage raised for installing the gear legs,
I'd like to do the main gear leg fairings only, so I don't have to jack it
up again later. How feasible do you think it'd be to do the main gear
fairings before doing the main gear pants? From looking at the plans, it
seems that If I attach the upper intersection (leg-to-fuselage) fairing,
it'll fix the gear leg fairing in the correct alignment. Only thing I can
see being a problem is not knowing if the fairing needs to slide up or down
the leg, since the pant is not installed. Anyone think this would work?
Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 47
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Exactly where I am now. I have an 18 ga, three wire shielded cable for strobes.
Two wire 16 ga (I think) for tail light . Five wire non shielded 26 ga rudder
trim servo. They all have to exit the fuselage and enter the rudder. I have a
1/4" hole that passes through the alum extrusion that the tie down eye bolt screws
into. It's in between the two top mount bolts. I would like to enlarge the
hole to accommodate the above mentioned wires but that's pushing things. What
would you recommend?
Thanks Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285519#285519
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: Installing main gear leg fairings first |
Do yourself a huge favor and install the wheel pants, gear leg fairings, and both
upper and lower intersection fairings before you put the wings on. We are
just finishing reworking the lower fairings because we took the 'after flying'
approach. Long story short we had to build new intersection fairings to get
an acceptable fit. Needless to say this was no fun with the wings in the way.
Not sure if just the upper will provide total alignment for you or not.
I can say without a doubt, doing all of the fairings before the wings go on is
a lesson learned, I really wish we had done it that way.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285523#285523
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: storing componets |
Thx Wayne. Yes I am having a lot of fun. I've been a woodworker the last
30 years or so, so this is quite different. I do enjoy building things,
anything, doesn't matter.
My attic is spacious, about 1200sq ft, with a floor to ridge height of 11',
so there is lots of circulation.
I just started the HS, so I have a long way to go, and just ordered the
standard wing kit Jan 25th. Looks like you've ordered the whole kit at
once? I considerd that but decided I didn't know enough about building to
commit to it all.
Thx for your advise.
Regards, Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 8:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: storing componets
>
> Goodmorning Rick. Yes, I would recommend removing it. It will be more
> difficult to remove the longer it stays on. I removed blue vinyl from all
> parts of my complete kit except skins. Actually my kids did most of them.
> You may want to ensure there is good air circulation around the pieces
> with nothing to trap condensation with temp changes in the spring. Working
> on tailcone myself. Have fun!
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie
> A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
> Grayson, KY
> Bldr# 40983
> Ordered complete kit 8/24/09
> DB Schenker delivered 11/20/09
> Starting empennage 12/01/09
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285327#285327
>
>
>
Message 50
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| Subject: | Installing main gear leg fairings first |
I do not think installing the fairings from top to bottom is a good idea at
all. Spend the time now while the plane is blocked up and do everything yo
u can even is you don't make the first flights with the fairings. Obviously
as others suggested=2C without the wings in the way=2C much easier to do t
hem now..
The fairings are pretty challenging and deserve a lot of effort and are wor
th that effort if the result is a good. Practice your geometry and get a la
ser.
Subject: RV10-List: Installing main gear leg fairings first
From: rv10rob@gmail.com
Hi=2C all... I'm planning on doing my landing gear fairings after I'm flyin
g. That said=2C while I have the fuselage raised for installing the gear l
egs=2C I'd like to do the main gear leg fairings only=2C so I don't have to
jack it up again later. How feasible do you think it'd be to do the main
gear fairings before doing the main gear pants? From looking at the plans
=2C it seems that If I attach the upper intersection (leg-to-fuselage) fair
ing=2C it'll fix the gear leg fairing in the correct alignment. Only thing
I can see being a problem is not knowing if the fairing needs to slide up
or down the leg=2C since the pant is not installed. Anyone think this woul
d work?
Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville=2C WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
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| Subject: | Re: Installing main gear leg fairings first |
I agree with Jason that you should do all the gear fairings before you mount the
wings. Even more important is to do them after you hang the engine. The weight
of the engine will change the position of the gear legs. Also, the upper intersection
fairings should be the last to go on. Establish the position of your
wheel pants, then the main gear fairings, then the upper fairings.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
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| Subject: | Re: Installing main gear leg fairings first |
Jason has it exactly right. You will be glad you have all of the
fairings and wheel pants fit before you put the wings on. You don't
need to have them installed for initial flying, but you will be might
glad they are completed. Crawling around under the wings to try and
fit everything will be no fun.
David Maib
40559
flying
On Feb 8, 2010, at 8:58 PM, jkreidler wrote:
<jason.kreidler@regalbeloit.com>
Do yourself a huge favor and install the wheel pants, gear leg
fairings, and both upper and lower intersection fairings before you
put the wings on. We are just finishing reworking the lower fairings
because we took the 'after flying' approach. Long story short we had
to build new intersection fairings to get an acceptable fit.
Needless to say this was no fun with the wings in the way. Not sure
if just the upper will provide total alignment for you or not.
I can say without a doubt, doing all of the fairings before the wings
go on is a lesson learned, I really wish we had done it that way.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
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| Subject: | Re: Installing main gear leg fairings first |
Do yourself a favor, do them all NOW. When your flying.. fly don't go
back and build again, believe me you'll be spending a fair amount of
time on the fairings. and it's better to do now than when everything is
installed.
Pascal
From: Rob Kochman
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 4:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Installing main gear leg fairings first
Hi, all... I'm planning on doing my landing gear fairings after I'm
flying. That said, while I have the fuselage raised for installing the
gear legs, I'd like to do the main gear leg fairings only, so I don't
have to jack it up again later. How feasible do you think it'd be to do
the main gear fairings before doing the main gear pants? From looking
at the plans, it seems that If I attach the upper intersection
(leg-to-fuselage) fairing, it'll fix the gear leg fairing in the correct
alignment. Only thing I can see being a problem is not knowing if the
fairing needs to slide up or down the leg, since the pant is not
installed. Anyone think this would work?
Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
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| Subject: | Re: storing componets |
Rick,
Cover up the lighting holes with tape before storing or you may get bee nests or
other creatures making their home in your parts...Ask me how I know...
Rick Sked
N246RS
Flyin
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Rick Lark" <jrlark@bmts.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: storing componets
Thx Wayne. Yes I am having a lot of fun. I've been a woodworker the last
30 years or so, so this is quite different. I do enjoy building things,
anything, doesn't matter.
My attic is spacious, about 1200sq ft, with a floor to ridge height of 11',
so there is lots of circulation.
I just started the HS, so I have a long way to go, and just ordered the
standard wing kit Jan 25th. Looks like you've ordered the whole kit at
once? I considerd that but decided I didn't know enough about building to
commit to it all.
Thx for your advise.
Regards, Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 8:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: storing componets
>
> Goodmorning Rick. Yes, I would recommend removing it. It will be more
> difficult to remove the longer it stays on. I removed blue vinyl from all
> parts of my complete kit except skins. Actually my kids did most of them.
> You may want to ensure there is good air circulation around the pieces
> with nothing to trap condensation with temp changes in the spring. Working
> on tailcone myself. Have fun!
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie
> A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
> Grayson, KY
> Bldr# 40983
> Ordered complete kit 8/24/09
> DB Schenker delivered 11/20/09
> Starting empennage 12/01/09
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285327#285327
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: fiberglass tips |
What are your thoughts of using clickbond nutplates to avoid having
all the rivet holes in the fiberglass?
On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 1:20 PM, Dave Saylor
<dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com> wrote:
> I've had mine off many times. Mine have landing lights, strobes, nav
> lights, two antennas, and a magnetometer in them. The OAT probes and AOA
> ports are just inboard. Plus you get a really nice view inside the wing for
> inspections.
>
> I used the standard construction without any reinforcement and they're
> holding up very well.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Transition Training |
Don,
Not sure how far it is from the college to the airport. But I do know that Patuxent
Naval Airbase is close by. If anyone is prior military, they could probably
use the Q's for a room overnight.
Joe
[quote="partner14"]Little different subject... but I have a flying RV10.... but
I also have a 42' Catamarran.... anyway, we have sailed and stayed in the bay
at St. Mary's college several times.... wish we would have known you were there.
How far is the airport from the college? Anyway, welcome aboard.... took
my transition training from Alex a year ago.
Don McDonald
based in Calif, but considering a move to Texas.
--- On Mon, 2/8/10, zackrv8 wrote:
>
> From: zackrv8
> Subject: RV10 Transition Training
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Date: Monday, February 8, 2010, 8:57 AM
>
>
> Fellow RV10 builders.....
>
> If you are in need of RV10 Transition Training on the East Coast, I can help you out. I use Van's Aircraft N220RV that is based at St Mary's airport (2W6) in Maryland. For more information, check out my website at http://www.zackair.com/ (http://www.zackair.com/).
>
> Thanks
> Joe Czachorowski
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285378#285378 (http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285378#285378)
>
>
>
>
> r?RV10-List" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://www.matronics.com/contr===============
>
>
>
>
>
> [b]
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285536#285536
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| Subject: | Re: Installing main gear leg fairings first |
Hey Jim,
It's been quite a while back, but I thought I remember the instructions saying
to align wheel and strut pants with the plane suspended -- no weight on the wheels
(as it will be in the air) -- if so, then the engine being mounted or not
shouldn't be a factor ... ?
At any rate, I can't imagine getting everything level, centerline parallel to wheel
lines, strings to the steps, etc. with the wings on.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285543#285543
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The optional wire harness plans call out a 3/16" hole, 11/16" inboard
from the top left bolt that goes into the extrusion that the eye bolt
screws into. I have not yet drilled the hole, but it is off center and
I would assume that it misses the center of the extrusion where the eye
bolt goes into. There is also a note that a snap bushing is not
required, just shrink wrap the wires for protection.
Larry
Ron B. wrote:
>
> Exactly where I am now. I have an 18 ga, three wire shielded cable for strobes.
Two wire 16 ga (I think) for tail light . Five wire non shielded 26 ga rudder
trim servo. They all have to exit the fuselage and enter the rudder. I have
a 1/4" hole that passes through the alum extrusion that the tie down eye bolt
screws into. It's in between the two top mount bolts. I would like to enlarge
the hole to accommodate the above mentioned wires but that's pushing things.
What would you recommend?
> Thanks Ron
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285519#285519
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: fiberglass tips |
Perfect application for the click bond nut plates. Just an expensive
way to go.
Larry
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> What are your thoughts of using clickbond nutplates to avoid having
> all the rivet holes in the fiberglass?
>
> On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 1:20 PM, Dave Saylor
> <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I've had mine off many times. Mine have landing lights, strobes, nav
>> lights, two antennas, and a magnetometer in them. The OAT probes and AOA
>> ports are just inboard. Plus you get a really nice view inside the wing for
>> inspections.
>>
>> I used the standard construction without any reinforcement and they're
>> holding up very well.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters LLC
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: fiberglass tips |
I have used the clickbond nutplates and fasteners throughout my project. The nutplates
are great in areas where you can't rivet like the bulkhead behind the
instrument panel. They are a little more expensive, but they should work fine
on the tips.
Greg Hale
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285550#285550
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| Subject: | Re: Installing main gear leg fairings first |
you are correct. It is supposed to be level, I think more of the flying
config than ground config. It is actually easier to do it without the engine
weight and certainly before the prop, at least in my small garage it was
anyway.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 8:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Installing main gear leg fairings first
>
> Hey Jim,
>
> It's been quite a while back, but I thought I remember the instructions
> saying to align wheel and strut pants with the plane suspended -- no
> weight on the wheels (as it will be in the air) -- if so, then the engine
> being mounted or not shouldn't be a factor ... ?
>
> At any rate, I can't imagine getting everything level, centerline parallel
> to wheel lines, strings to the steps, etc. with the wings on.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Painting done!
> On with wiring and avionics.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285543#285543
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Installing main gear leg fairings first |
Lew,
You are absolutely correct. I don't know how I could have forgotten all the fun
I had getting the plane off off the gear and level. Sorry 'bout that.
Jim Berry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285553#285553
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| Subject: | Re: fiberglass tips |
What Larry said--they're great time savers and they install very nicely.
Pretty expensive, though. A hand squeezer is the right tool for riveting
the nutplates onto the tips, not a rivet gun, and just be gentle with it.
It doesn't take much to set those tiny rivets. You don't need to back it up
with aluminum strip like the cabin top uses. The nut plate takes care of
that.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 8:26 PM, Larry Rosen <N205EN@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Perfect application for the click bond nut plates. Just an expensive way
> to go.
>
> Larry
>
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>>
>> What are your thoughts of using clickbond nutplates to avoid having
>> all the rivet holes in the fiberglass?
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 1:20 PM, Dave Saylor
>> <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> I've had mine off many times. Mine have landing lights, strobes, nav
>>> lights, two antennas, and a magnetometer in them. The OAT probes and AOA
>>> ports are just inboard. Plus you get a really nice view inside the wing
>>> for
>>> inspections.
>>>
>>> I used the standard construction without any reinforcement and they're
>>> holding up very well.
>>>
>>> Dave Saylor
>>> AirCrafters LLC
>>> 140 Aviation Way
>>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing |
FWIW, I just got an email from these people and apparently
they changed their pricing. If I read their email the price
is now $100 for the 24x36 print.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Bob Leffler wrote:
> <mailto:tjtechart@comcast.net> Let Tom know which model you want and
> whether you want a limited edition or an open edition print. If you want
> an open edition, let us know if you want an 18x24 or 24x36. No money is
> collected until the project starts.|
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Danny Riggs
> *Sent:* Monday, February 08, 2010 9:11 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
>
>
>
> Wow! Where do you sign up for one of these?? Dan
>
>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Cutaway Drawing
>> From: rv@thelefflers.com
>> Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 05:04:56 -0800
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>
>>
>> John,
>>
>> I've been told that Tom looks for about 60 of the giclee prints or
> several hundred of the standard prints. As I understand, he has about
> ten orders for the RV-10.
>>
>> Tom was cc'd on my email, plus I let him know that I was posting to
> the forum. Hopefully, he'll drop by and add some comments.
>>
>> bob
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Leffler
>> N410BL - Fuselage
>> RV-10 #40684
>> mykitlog.com/rleffler
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285321#285321
>>
>
>>
>>
>>
>
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>
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| Subject: | Re: fiberglass tips |
Hi Russell, I'm from your neck of the woods. We're thinking about having an RV-10
gathering at Poplar Grove. I'll send you an E-mail after we do some more planning.
I think everyone said it already... the stock arrangement is just fine and Click-Bond
is great but expensive. You shouldn't need any reinforcements as the wingtips
feel very solid.
David Shelton
MotoPOD@gmail.com
www.MotorcyclePilot.com
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285564#285564
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| Subject: | Re: fiberglass tips |
To quantify expensive...
The Flight Shop <www.theflightshop.com> is a good supplier of all of the
click bond products. They have an RV "Wing Tip Rapid Installation Kit"
that includes 100 nutplates, adhesive, adhesive dispenser, solvent
wipes, abrasive pads, etc. A complete kit. It is $295.00 However, you
could install all the nut plates in less than an hour.
Larry
Dave Saylor wrote:
> What Larry said--they're great time savers and they install very
> nicely. Pretty expensive, though. A hand squeezer is the right tool
> for riveting the nutplates onto the tips, not a rivet gun, and just be
> gentle with it. It doesn't take much to set those tiny rivets. You
> don't need to back it up with aluminum strip like the cabin top uses.
> The nut plate takes care of that.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 8:26 PM, Larry Rosen <N205EN@gmail.com
> <mailto:N205EN@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> <mailto:N205EN@gmail.com>>
>
> Perfect application for the click bond nut plates. Just an
> expensive way to go.
>
> Larry
>
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> <apilot2@gmail.com <mailto:apilot2@gmail.com>>
>
> What are your thoughts of using clickbond nutplates to avoid
> having
> all the rivet holes in the fiberglass?
>
> On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 1:20 PM, Dave Saylor
> <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com
> <mailto:dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>
> I've had mine off many times. Mine have landing lights,
> strobes, nav
> lights, two antennas, and a magnetometer in them. The OAT
> probes and AOA
> ports are just inboard. Plus you get a really nice view
> inside the wing for
> inspections.
>
> I used the standard construction without any reinforcement
> and they're
> holding up very well.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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