Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:13 AM - Re: Bubbles in windshield fairing (DLIUDVINAITIS@aol.com)
2. 10:23 AM - Re: Re: Drilled hole in wrong place (Perry, Phil)
3. 10:23 AM - Re: Drilled hole in wrong place (Billy & Tami Britton)
4. 01:03 PM - > Re: Grand Rapids Training (Barry Marz)
5. 01:09 PM - Re: Drilled hole in wrong place (Tim Olson)
6. 01:10 PM - Re: Drilled hole in wrong place (Don McDonald)
7. 01:42 PM - Power wiring (Eric_Kallio)
8. 06:05 PM - Re: Drilled hole in wrong place (Billy & Tami Britton)
9. 06:44 PM - Rivet Source (Bill and Tami Britton)
10. 06:44 PM - Hole drilled in wrong place (Bill and Tami Britton)
11. 06:44 PM - Re: Drilled hole in wrong place (Billy & Tami Britton)
12. 07:35 PM - Re: Drilled hole in wrong place (Jack Phillips)
13. 07:35 PM - Re: Drilled hole in wrong place (Kelly McMullen)
14. 07:38 PM - Re: Power wiring (Bill Watson)
15. 07:38 PM - Re: Drilled hole in wrong place (Tim Olson)
16. 07:55 PM - Re: Drilled hole in wrong place (ricksked@cox.net)
17. 07:57 PM - Re: Drilled hole in wrong place (Tom Koelzer)
18. 08:05 PM - Re: Rivet Source (Marcus Cooper)
19. 08:12 PM - Re: Rivet Source (Ben Westfall)
20. 08:42 PM - Re: Bubbles in windshield fairing (David Shelton)
21. 08:57 PM - Re: Drilled hole in wrong place (Billy & Tami Britton)
22. 08:58 PM - Re: problems with new factory (David Shelton)
23. 09:09 PM - Re: Air Access on Wheel Farings (David Shelton)
24. 10:54 PM - Re: Drilled hole in wrong place (Don McDonald)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Bubbles in windshield fairing |
HEY ROB
PROBLEM YOU MIGHT BE HAVING IS IF YOU ARE LETTING LAY UPS CURE.
LAY-UP OVER THIS THIS CURED EPOXY HAS A AMINE BLUSH AFTER CURING THIS AMINE
BLUSH IS REMOVED WITH WATER ONLY THEN SANDED THIS WILL MAKE A SECONDARY BOND
BETTER. I USED WEST SYSTEM ALSO HAD EXCELENT RESULTS WITH WINDSHIELD
FAIRING. ALSO GET FRON YOUR EXPOXY DEALER THE MANUAL FOR WEST SYSTEM. (ITS FREE)
DAVE
NJ #40466, FINISHING,WIRING ,ENGIN
In a message dated 2/15/2010 8:52:56 P.M. Central Standard Time,
rv10rob@gmail.com writes:
Clearly I still have no idea what I'm doing with fiberglass. In the
attached picture you can see numerous bubbles in the layup of our windshield
fairing. Is this anything to be concerned about?
Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
_http://kochman.net/N819K_ (http://kochman.net/N819K)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Drilled hole in wrong place |
Put one in the other wing too.. Then if anyone asks you about the
larger rivet, you can just look at them with a straight face and say,
"Didn't you get the service bulletin? You need to go read it."
:)
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Turner [mailto:bobturner@alum.rpi.edu]
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 11:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Drilled hole in wrong place
Well, if it were me, I'd put an AN426-5 or -6 (depending on the exact
hole size) rivet into these "mistakes", call it a "feature", and move
on.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286621#286621
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Drilled hole in wrong place |
Does anybody have maybe 4 or 5 each of AN426AD5's and AD6's you could
send me (I will pay for them)? I will order some from Vans but
sometimes their shipping is kinda slow and I'm at the point that I need
the rivets NOW. If so you can e-mail me off list at william@gbta.net.
Anyway, thanks for the help. Better pay a little more attention from
now on.
Bill
From: Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 11:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilled hole in wrong place
This is a common mistake, mentioned by many. You can slightly
countersink the back side of your mistake, then squeeze an AN426AD5-3 or
3.5 in there to fill the hole. Then just drill through center of rivet
for correct hole size, file shop head to almost flush and you are good
to go. A bit less kosher method would be to fill the hole with JB weld
epoxy. Or you can do as you propose drilling a new hole in the fairing.
The rivet the hole shut method will be the least detectable, most
durable.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: > Re: Grand Rapids Training |
A good place to start is to print out the Set Up Doc. from GRT and
make sure the boxes are configured the way you want. Who installed
the boxes and did they keep a record of how it was set up? I came
from a glass background, so reading the OPS manual and going out to
play with it worked for me. Try to find someone with glass time and
they should be able to get ya going on the basics.
Barry Marz
18735 Baseleg AVE.
FT. Myers, Fl 33917
239-567-2271
blalmarz@embarqmail.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Drilled hole in wrong place |
If this rivet hole is in the wingwalk wing-root fairing area,
I did the same thing....it was supposed to be a single-ear
nutplate instead of double, or something like that. Drilling
it wrong isn't good, because the fairing is already pre-drilled,
so then you'd have 2 holes next to eachother. The way I fixed
it was fill the mis-drilled hole with JB weld for cosmetic
purposes and then re-drill and countersink the proper hole.
If the wing root fairing wasn't pre-drilled, I would have just
left it, but since the fairing is, you should just fix the hole.
I doubt there's a strength issue to having 2 holes drilled
and countersunk...but you just want the nutplate to hold.
After filling with JB weld I think I still riveted it properly.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> As I was getting ready to start riveting on my top wing skins today I
> found a mistake I made when drilling out my top inboard wing skin
> nutplate holes on the inboard side. On page 16-2 step 3 we are to drill
> out to #19 screw holes on the inboard edge of the W-1002 inboard wing
> skin. I somehow missed one of the holes by one. It is the hole
> directly below (aft) of the center rivet line on the skin ( rivet line
> where the W-1028 wing box J-stiffeners are riveted to). The enlarged
> hole is supposed to be the hole directly aft of that center rivet line.
> As you can see from the picture I messed up and drilled the second hole
> aft and countersunk it for a #8 screw dimple.
>
> Are these nutplates for the wing root fairings? If so,can I use a
> K-1000-08 nutplate here also and modify the wing root fairing? If not
> are there any other suggestions? Looks to me like If I start over I'll
> probably have to buy new skins (made the same mistake on both wings),
> and ribs (since the #8 dimple countersink went into the rib).
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions? I'll try Vans tomorrow but they are closed
> today for Presidents day.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Drilled hole in wrong place |
Bill, you got a phone number?- Should have listed it..... Need to know wh
at length.- Call me 916-801-8402.
Don McDonald
--- On Tue, 2/16/10, Billy & Tami Britton <william@gbta.net> wrote:
From: Billy & Tami Britton <william@gbta.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilled hole in wrong place
Does anybody have maybe 4 or 5 each of AN426AD5's and AD6's you could send
me (I will pay for them)?- I will order some from Vans but sometimes thei
r shipping is kinda slow and I'm at the point that I need the rivets NOW.
- If so you can e-mail me off list at william@gbta.net.
-
Anyway, thanks for the help.- Better pay a little more attention from now
on.
-
Bill
-
From: Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 11:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilled hole in wrong place
This is a common mistake, mentioned by many. You can slightly countersink t
he back side of your mistake, then squeeze an AN426AD5-3 or 3.5 in there to
fill the hole. Then just drill through center of rivet for correct hole si
ze, file shop head to almost flush and you are good to go. A bit less koshe
r method would be to fill the hole with JB weld epoxy.- Or you can do as
you propose drilling a new hole in the fairing. The rivet the hole shut met
hod will be the least detectable, most durable.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
=0A=0A=0A
Message 7
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Anybody have a pic or a good description of their routing of the alternator and
starter wire around the engine. I am getting to the FWF wiring point and rather
than reinvent the wheel I would like to see what others have done and see what
works best for me. Really any FWF pics of wire runs would be nice but I don't
want to be greedy. If you don't want to post or they are too big you can email
them to scout019(at)msn.com. Thanks.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286692#286692
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Drilled hole in wrong place |
This is exactly what I'm talking about. The plans call for a single ear
nutplate instead of a double. When I was drilling them out I automatically
drilled the center of the three holes on all the locations. Well, in this
one location the forward hole was to be drilled out--not the center.
Naturally it is countersunk for a #8 screw DIMPLE so it's a rather large
hole there in the wrong place. My initial intentions were to just use a
regular K-1000-08 nutplate and forget about it until talking to Scott at
Vans. He informed me that the wing root fairings come pre-punched so the
hole really needed to be moved to the correct location.
Anyhow, sounds like JB weld should be a rather quick and easy fix.
To those of you who offered to send me rivets---Thanks a million but looks
like for now I won't be needing them.
Tim, if you read this I might drop you an e-mail for some specific details
if you can remember that far back.
Thanks,
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@myrv10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 1:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilled hole in wrong place
>
> If this rivet hole is in the wingwalk wing-root fairing area,
> I did the same thing....it was supposed to be a single-ear
> nutplate instead of double, or something like that. Drilling
> it wrong isn't good, because the fairing is already pre-drilled,
> so then you'd have 2 holes next to eachother. The way I fixed
> it was fill the mis-drilled hole with JB weld for cosmetic
> purposes and then re-drill and countersink the proper hole.
> If the wing root fairing wasn't pre-drilled, I would have just
> left it, but since the fairing is, you should just fix the hole.
> I doubt there's a strength issue to having 2 holes drilled
> and countersunk...but you just want the nutplate to hold.
> After filling with JB weld I think I still riveted it properly.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>> As I was getting ready to start riveting on my top wing skins today I
>> found a mistake I made when drilling out my top inboard wing skin
>> nutplate holes on the inboard side. On page 16-2 step 3 we are to drill
>> out to #19 screw holes on the inboard edge of the W-1002 inboard wing
>> skin. I somehow missed one of the holes by one. It is the hole directly
>> below (aft) of the center rivet line on the skin ( rivet line where the
>> W-1028 wing box J-stiffeners are riveted to). The enlarged hole is
>> supposed to be the hole directly aft of that center rivet line. As you
>> can see from the picture I messed up and drilled the second hole aft and
>> countersunk it for a #8 screw dimple. Are these nutplates for the wing
>> root fairings? If so,can I use a K-1000-08 nutplate here also and modify
>> the wing root fairing? If not are there any other suggestions? Looks to
>> me like If I start over I'll probably have to buy new skins (made the
>> same mistake on both wings), and ribs (since the #8 dimple countersink
>> went into the rib). Any thoughts or suggestions? I'll try Vans tomorrow
>> but they are closed today for Presidents day.
>> Thanks,
>> Bill
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>
>
>
Message 9
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Need a source for AN426AD5 and AD6 rivets. Anybody know where to get
them? Vans does not carry them.
As a side note: for some reason it's taking my posts to the forums a
couple hours to post. Am I doing something wrong or is it just the
"system"?
Thanks
Bill
Message 10
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| Subject: | Hole drilled in wrong place |
As I was getting ready to start riveting on my top wing skins today I
found a mistake I made when drilling out my top inboard wing skin
nutplate holes on the inboard side. On page 16-2 step 3 we are to drill
out to #19 screw holes on the inboard edge of the W-1002 inboard wing
skin. I somehow missed one of the holes by one. It is the hole
directly below (aft) of the center rivet line on the skin ( rivet line
where the W-1028 wing box J-stiffeners are riveted to). The enlarged
hole is supposed to be the hole directly aft of that center rivet line.
As you can see from the picture I messed up and drilled the second hole
aft and countersunk it for a #8 screw dimple.
Are these nutplates for the wing root fairings? If so,can I use a
K-1000-08 nutplate here also and modify the wing root fairing? If not
are there any other suggestions? Looks to me like If I start over I'll
probably have to buy new skins (made the same mistake on both wings),
and ribs (since the #8 dimple countersink went into the rib).
Any thoughts or suggestions? I'll try Vans tomorrow but they are closed
today for Presidents day.
Thanks,
Bill
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Drilled hole in wrong place |
Talked to Vans about it and his suggestion was to use this route (the
enlarged rivet mentioned below). It looks like if I move the hole to
the correct location that the new countersink is going to overlap the
incorrect countersink in the skin. I'm afraid this might leave a fairly
large "loose" section on the skin. I'd like to hear from others who
have made this mistake and see how it worked out for you.
Also, I need a source for AN426AD5 and AD6 rivets.
Bill
From: Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 11:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilled hole in wrong place
This is a common mistake, mentioned by many. You can slightly
countersink the back side of your mistake, then squeeze an AN426AD5-3 or
3.5 in there to fill the hole. Then just drill through center of rivet
for correct hole size, file shop head to almost flush and you are good
to go. A bit less kosher method would be to fill the hole with JB weld
epoxy. Or you can do as you propose drilling a new hole in the fairing.
The rivet the hole shut method will be the least detectable, most
durable.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Drilled hole in wrong place |
Order them from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty and they will ship today.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami
Britton
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilled hole in wrong place
Does anybody have maybe 4 or 5 each of AN426AD5's and AD6's you could send
me (I will pay for them)? I will order some from Vans but sometimes their
shipping is kinda slow and I'm at the point that I need the rivets NOW. If
so you can e-mail me off list at william@gbta.net.
Anyway, thanks for the help. Better pay a little more attention from now
on.
Bill
From: Kelly McMullen <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 11:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilled hole in wrong place
This is a common mistake, mentioned by many. You can slightly countersink
the back side of your mistake, then squeeze an AN426AD5-3 or 3.5 in there to
fill the hole. Then just drill through center of rivet for correct hole
size, file shop head to almost flush and you are good to go. A bit less
kosher method would be to fill the hole with JB weld epoxy. Or you can do
as you propose drilling a new hole in the fairing. The rivet the hole shut
method will be the least detectable, most durable.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Drilled hole in wrong place |
Any airline mechanic or shop that works on twins and up. I found AD5
fit perfectly. Formed up nicely with my squeezer set for bare minimum
shop head remaining. It does hold the skins together until you get
around to doing the nutplate. IIRC, I don't think I did the
countersink in new location until after riveting the nutplate in
place.
On Tue, Feb 16, 2010 at 10:45 AM, Billy & Tami Britton <william@gbta.net> wrote:
> Talked to Vans about it and his suggestion was to use this route (the
> enlarged rivet mentioned below). It looks like if I move the hole to the
> correct location that the new countersink is going to overlap the incorrect
> countersink in the skin. I'm afraid this might leave a fairly large "loose"
> section on the skin. I'd like to hear from others who have made this
> mistake and see how it worked out for you.
>
> Also, I need a source for AN426AD5 and AD6 rivets.
>
> Bill
> From: Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 11:10 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilled hole in wrong place
>
> This is a common mistake, mentioned by many. You can slightly countersink
> the back side of your mistake, then squeeze an AN426AD5-3 or 3.5 in there to
> fill the hole. Then just drill through center of rivet for correct hole
> size, file shop head to almost flush and you are good to go. A bit less
> kosher method would be to fill the hole with JB weld epoxy. Or you can do
> as you propose drilling a new hole in the fairing. The rivet the hole shut
> method will be the least detectable, most durable.
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Power wiring |
I followed the examples shown in the Vans wiring kit... But didn't get the
kit. =C2-Very good starting point for all wiring.
-- Sent from my Palm Pre
Eric_Kallio wrote:
Anybody have a pic or a good description of their routing of the alternator
and starter wire around the engine. I am getting to the FWF wiring point
and rather than reinvent the wheel I would like to see what others have do
ne and see what works best for me. Really any FWF pics of wire runs would
be nice but I don't want to be greedy. If you don't want to post or they
are too big you can email them to scout019(at)msn.com. Thanks.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286692#286692
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Drilled hole in wrong place |
Interestingly, this is one of the "gotchas" I have listed on my site:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/gotchas.html
Included is even a picture of the offending location. I put it there
in 2005 or maybe it was 2004. :)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Billy & Tami Britton wrote:
>
> This is exactly what I'm talking about. The plans call for a single ear
> nutplate instead of a double. When I was drilling them out I
> automatically drilled the center of the three holes on all the
> locations. Well, in this one location the forward hole was to be
> drilled out--not the center. Naturally it is countersunk for a #8 screw
> DIMPLE so it's a rather large hole there in the wrong place. My initial
> intentions were to just use a regular K-1000-08 nutplate and forget
> about it until talking to Scott at Vans. He informed me that the wing
> root fairings come pre-punched so the hole really needed to be moved to
> the correct location.
>
> Anyhow, sounds like JB weld should be a rather quick and easy fix.
>
> To those of you who offered to send me rivets---Thanks a million but
> looks like for now I won't be needing them.
>
> Tim, if you read this I might drop you an e-mail for some specific
> details if you can remember that far back.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@myrv10.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 1:25 PM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilled hole in wrong place
>
>>
>> If this rivet hole is in the wingwalk wing-root fairing area,
>> I did the same thing....it was supposed to be a single-ear
>> nutplate instead of double, or something like that. Drilling
>> it wrong isn't good, because the fairing is already pre-drilled,
>> so then you'd have 2 holes next to eachother. The way I fixed
>> it was fill the mis-drilled hole with JB weld for cosmetic
>> purposes and then re-drill and countersink the proper hole.
>> If the wing root fairing wasn't pre-drilled, I would have just
>> left it, but since the fairing is, you should just fix the hole.
>> I doubt there's a strength issue to having 2 holes drilled
>> and countersunk...but you just want the nutplate to hold.
>> After filling with JB weld I think I still riveted it properly.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>>> As I was getting ready to start riveting on my top wing skins today I
>>> found a mistake I made when drilling out my top inboard wing skin
>>> nutplate holes on the inboard side. On page 16-2 step 3 we are to
>>> drill out to #19 screw holes on the inboard edge of the W-1002
>>> inboard wing skin. I somehow missed one of the holes by one. It is
>>> the hole directly below (aft) of the center rivet line on the skin (
>>> rivet line where the W-1028 wing box J-stiffeners are riveted to).
>>> The enlarged hole is supposed to be the hole directly aft of that
>>> center rivet line. As you can see from the picture I messed up and
>>> drilled the second hole aft and countersunk it for a #8 screw dimple.
>>> Are these nutplates for the wing root fairings? If so,can I use a
>>> K-1000-08 nutplate here also and modify the wing root fairing? If
>>> not are there any other suggestions? Looks to me like If I start
>>> over I'll probably have to buy new skins (made the same mistake on
>>> both wings), and ribs (since the #8 dimple countersink went into the
>>> rib). Any thoughts or suggestions? I'll try Vans tomorrow but they
>>> are closed today for Presidents day.
>>> Thanks,
>>> Bill
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Drilled hole in wrong place |
Now Kelly may have a good source but some builders may be far from an A&P hack
shop..So I'm advising off the cuff but check with Wicks or Aircraft. Spruce....you
might have to buy like an 1/8th pound but it will be pretty inexpensive...
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilled hole in wrong place
Any airline mechanic or shop that works on twins and up. I found AD5
fit perfectly. Formed up nicely with my squeezer set for bare minimum
shop head remaining. It does hold the skins together until you get
around to doing the nutplate. IIRC, I don't think I did the
countersink in new location until after riveting the nutplate in
place.
On Tue, Feb 16, 2010 at 10:45 AM, Billy & Tami Britton <william@gbta.net> wrote:
> Talked to Vans about it and his suggestion was to use this route (the
> enlarged rivet mentioned below). It looks like if I move the hole to the
> correct location that the new countersink is going to overlap the incorrect
> countersink in the skin. I'm afraid this might leave a fairly large "loose"
> section on the skin. I'd like to hear from others who have made this
> mistake and see how it worked out for you.
>
> Also, I need a source for AN426AD5 and AD6 rivets.
>
> Bill
> From: Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 11:10 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilled hole in wrong place
>
> This is a common mistake, mentioned by many. You can slightly countersink
> the back side of your mistake, then squeeze an AN426AD5-3 or 3.5 in there to
> fill the hole. Then just drill through center of rivet for correct hole
> size, file shop head to almost flush and you are good to go. A bit less
> kosher method would be to fill the hole with JB weld epoxy. Or you can do
> as you propose drilling a new hole in the fairing. The rivet the hole shut
> method will be the least detectable, most durable.
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Drilled hole in wrong place |
Bill,
I have an assortment of 426AD5s and 6s, way more than I'll ever need so send me
an address at the below email and I'll drop a few in the mail. No charge. I'll
need something some day maybe you can help out.
Tom Koelzer
#40950 Empennage Attach
40950@rv10.net
do not archive
On Feb 16, 2010, at 11:45 AM, Billy & Tami Britton wrote:
> Talked to Vans about it and his suggestion was to use this route (the enlarged
rivet mentioned below). It looks like if I move the hole to the correct location
that the new countersink is going to overlap the incorrect countersink in
the skin. I'm afraid this might leave a fairly large "loose" section on the
skin. I'd like to hear from others who have made this mistake and see how it
worked out for you.
>
> Also, I need a source for AN426AD5 and AD6 rivets.
>
> Bill
>
> From: Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 11:10 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilled hole in wrong place
>
>
> This is a common mistake, mentioned by many. You can slightly countersink the
back side of your mistake, then squeeze an AN426AD5-3 or 3.5 in there to fill
the hole. Then just drill through center of rivet for correct hole size, file
shop head to almost flush and you are good to go. A bit less kosher method would
be to fill the hole with JB weld epoxy. Or you can do as you propose drilling
a new hole in the fairing. The rivet the hole shut method will be the least
detectable, most durable.
>
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
Message 18
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Aircraft Spruce, Wicks, etc should have them.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/solidalumrivets.php might be a
good start. I think you have to order at least 1/8 lb (more than enough).
I also had some luck going to the local maintenance folks when I just needed
a few rivets, a lot cheaper and faster that way.
Probably just the system on the posting issue.
Marcus
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 12:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rivet Source
Need a source for AN426AD5 and AD6 rivets. Anybody know where to get them?
Vans does not carry them.
As a side note: for some reason it's taking my posts to the forums a couple
hours to post. Am I doing something wrong or is it just the "system"?
Thanks
Bill
Message 19
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Columbia Airmotive is a small, family owned aircraft parts company in
Portland that I'm sure would sell you a small handful of these. They have a
webpage with an online parts catalog that lists them in qty but if you call
I'm sure they will package up a small handful of a few sizes. The shipping
will cost considerably more than the rivets. Give them a call. Really nice
guys.
http://www.columbiaairmotive.com <http://www.columbiaairmotive.com/>
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 9:28 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rivet Source
Need a source for AN426AD5 and AD6 rivets. Anybody know where to get them?
Vans does not carry them.
As a side note: for some reason it's taking my posts to the forums a couple
hours to post. Am I doing something wrong or is it just the "system"?
Thanks
Bill
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Bubbles in windshield fairing |
Rob,
You mentioned that it was cold there. Many resins get more viscous at lower temperatures,
making it more difficult to wet out the cloth. Make sure you are working
at the recommended temperature for your resin and work out the bubbles with
a stippling action of the brush.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286745#286745
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Drilled hole in wrong place |
Thanks Tim. I'll definitely be checking out your "gotchas" a little closer
now. Thanks for the e-mail also. Now that the excitement and worry about
my latest mistake is gone I can get back to building. I do have to say
that it makes me feel a little better that "the man" made the same mistake I
did. LOL!!!!! Just kidding Tim!!
Thanks again to everybody who replied. I usually only monitor this list
but it really comes in handy when you need it.
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@myrv10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilled hole in wrong place
>
> Interestingly, this is one of the "gotchas" I have listed on my site:
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/gotchas.html
> Included is even a picture of the offending location. I put it there
> in 2005 or maybe it was 2004. :)
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> Billy & Tami Britton wrote:
>> <william@gbta.net>
>>
>> This is exactly what I'm talking about. The plans call for a single ear
>> nutplate instead of a double. When I was drilling them out I
>> automatically drilled the center of the three holes on all the locations.
>> Well, in this one location the forward hole was to be drilled out--not
>> the center. Naturally it is countersunk for a #8 screw DIMPLE so it's a
>> rather large hole there in the wrong place. My initial intentions were
>> to just use a regular K-1000-08 nutplate and forget about it until
>> talking to Scott at Vans. He informed me that the wing root fairings
>> come pre-punched so the hole really needed to be moved to the correct
>> location.
>>
>> Anyhow, sounds like JB weld should be a rather quick and easy fix.
>>
>> To those of you who offered to send me rivets---Thanks a million but
>> looks like for now I won't be needing them.
>>
>> Tim, if you read this I might drop you an e-mail for some specific
>> details if you can remember that far back.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bill
>>
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@myrv10.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 1:25 PM
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilled hole in wrong place
>>
>>>
>>> If this rivet hole is in the wingwalk wing-root fairing area,
>>> I did the same thing....it was supposed to be a single-ear
>>> nutplate instead of double, or something like that. Drilling
>>> it wrong isn't good, because the fairing is already pre-drilled,
>>> so then you'd have 2 holes next to eachother. The way I fixed
>>> it was fill the mis-drilled hole with JB weld for cosmetic
>>> purposes and then re-drill and countersink the proper hole.
>>> If the wing root fairing wasn't pre-drilled, I would have just
>>> left it, but since the fairing is, you should just fix the hole.
>>> I doubt there's a strength issue to having 2 holes drilled
>>> and countersunk...but you just want the nutplate to hold.
>>> After filling with JB weld I think I still riveted it properly.
>>>
>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>>>> As I was getting ready to start riveting on my top wing skins today I
>>>> found a mistake I made when drilling out my top inboard wing skin
>>>> nutplate holes on the inboard side. On page 16-2 step 3 we are to
>>>> drill out to #19 screw holes on the inboard edge of the W-1002 inboard
>>>> wing skin. I somehow missed one of the holes by one. It is the hole
>>>> directly below (aft) of the center rivet line on the skin ( rivet line
>>>> where the W-1028 wing box J-stiffeners are riveted to). The enlarged
>>>> hole is supposed to be the hole directly aft of that center rivet line.
>>>> As you can see from the picture I messed up and drilled the second hole
>>>> aft and countersunk it for a #8 screw dimple. Are these nutplates for
>>>> the wing root fairings? If so,can I use a K-1000-08 nutplate here also
>>>> and modify the wing root fairing? If not are there any other
>>>> suggestions? Looks to me like If I start over I'll probably have to
>>>> buy new skins (made the same mistake on both wings), and ribs (since
>>>> the #8 dimple countersink went into the rib). Any thoughts or
>>>> suggestions? I'll try Vans tomorrow but they are closed today for
>>>> Presidents day.
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Bill
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: problems with new factory |
Setting up production of an airplane kit in another country is a very challenging
task. I would imagine Vans will continue to improve the quality but it sure
sounds like a good deal... even if there are a few mistakes. The very worst kit
from Vans is better quality than most other kits on the market.
Are folks generally finding the same problems or are they all different?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286749#286749
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Air Access on Wheel Farings |
Hey Grumpy, thanks for the tip on the remote pressure sensors. What is the range
on them?
I would imagine the castoring nose-wheel makes a flat or blown tire very serious.
On a typical Cessna, you might be able to keep it on the runway, but I would
imagine the RV-10 would take you for a ride. I like to keep a close eye on my
tires and pressure. Anything that makes them easier to check will probably mean
I'll check them more frequently.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286752#286752
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Drilled hole in wrong place |
Just so you guys know..... I have most of the sizes of rivets... 1 each, 10
0 each, 426's or 470... 3's 4's 5's 6's.... so if it comes down to ordering
a pound or 5 pounds, send me an email.
Don McDonald
--- On Tue, 2/16/10, ricksked@cox.net <ricksked@cox.net> wrote:
From: ricksked@cox.net <ricksked@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilled hole in wrong place
Now Kelly may have a good source but some builders may be far from an A&P h
ack shop..So- I'm advising off the cuff but check with Wicks or Aircraft.
Spruce....you might have to buy like an 1/8th pound but it will be pretty
inexpensive...
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilled hole in wrong place
Any airline mechanic or shop that works on twins and up. I found AD5
fit perfectly. Formed up nicely with my squeezer set for bare minimum
shop head remaining. It does hold the skins together until you get
around to doing the nutplate. IIRC, I don't think I did the
countersink in new location until after riveting the nutplate in
place.
On Tue, Feb 16, 2010 at 10:45 AM, Billy & Tami Britton <william@gbta.net> w
rote:
> Talked to Vans about it and his suggestion was to use this route (the
> enlarged rivet mentioned below).- It looks like if I move the hole to t
he
> correct location that the new countersink is going to overlap the incorre
ct
> countersink in the skin.- I'm afraid this might leave a fairly large "l
oose"
> section on the skin.- I'd like to hear from others who have made this
> mistake and see how it worked out for you.
>
> Also, I need a source for AN426AD5 and AD6 rivets.
>
> Bill
> From: Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 11:10 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Drilled hole in wrong place
>
> This is a common mistake, mentioned by many. You can slightly countersink
> the back side of your mistake, then squeeze an AN426AD5-3 or 3.5 in there
to
> fill the hole. Then just drill through center of rivet for correct hole
> size, file shop head to almost flush and you are good to go. A bit less
> kosher method would be to fill the hole with JB weld epoxy.- Or you can
do
> as you propose drilling a new hole in the fairing. The rivet the hole shu
t
> method will be the least detectable, most durable.
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
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