Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:54 AM - Re: Power wiring (Michael Kraus)
2. 04:57 AM - Re: Power wiring (Eric_Kallio)
3. 08:26 AM - Re: Re: Bubbles in windshield fairing (Pascal)
4. 10:13 AM - Re: Re: Bubbles in windshield fairing (Dave Saylor)
5. 12:36 PM - Re: RV-10 QB Fuse & Wings For Sale - Ohio (Ed Mueller)
6. 06:11 PM - Re: Bubbles in windshield fairing (Ron B.)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Power wiring |
I routed my alternator wire down below the #1,3,5 cylinders along the
slpit line of the case and oil pan. I used some adel clamps and stand-
offs as required. I did the same thing for the starter wires on the
other side. I can send pictures tonight if you'd like them...
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 16, 2010, at 4:41 PM, "Eric_Kallio" <scout019@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Anybody have a pic or a good description of their routing of the
> alternator and starter wire around the engine. I am getting to the
> FWF wiring point and rather than reinvent the wheel I would like to
> see what others have done and see what works best for me. Really any
> FWF pics of wire runs would be nice but I don't want to be greedy.
> If you don't want to post or they are too big you can email them to
> scout019(at)msn.com. Thanks.
>
> Eric Kallio
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286692#286692
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Power wiring |
I have to OP-37 directions as well, but often folks find a better mousetrap, and
with the uniqueness of each airplane comes a different way to things. Just trying
to see what else has worked for builders out there,
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286771#286771
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Bubbles in windshield fairing |
Don MacDonald gave me some advice a few months back.. use a work light. the
500w one sold at HF put out a fair amount of heat. I just completed my
plenum using the light and everything cured well, and more quickly.. In a
cold environment just set the lamp a few feet away from the work area and it
will produce the added heat. I set a thermometer over the work area to keep
the glass at 80-85 degrees.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "David Shelton" <SBaircraft@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 8:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Bubbles in windshield fairing
>
> Rob,
>
> You mentioned that it was cold there. Many resins get more viscous at
> lower temperatures, making it more difficult to wet out the cloth. Make
> sure you are working at the recommended temperature for your resin and
> work out the bubbles with a stippling action of the brush.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286745#286745
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Bubbles in windshield fairing |
Be really careful with a heat lamp or work light near the plexiglass. Ask
me how I know! For sure use the thermometer you talked about, but keep in
mind the temp will climb if it's not regulated. We've been using some
electric blankets for temp control lately that work really well. If you
pushed one down inside the base of the windshield that should keep the
aluminum and the plex warm but not too hot.
I agree with the other comments regarding the bubbles. Small specks like
that aren't going to have much effect one the layup. A little more
resin/working time/warmth might have helped but from the picture I saw I
wouldn't redo it.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Wed, Feb 17, 2010 at 8:24 AM, Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Don MacDonald gave me some advice a few months back.. use a work light. the
> 500w one sold at HF put out a fair amount of heat. I just completed my
> plenum using the light and everything cured well, and more quickly.. In a
> cold environment just set the lamp a few feet away from the work area and it
> will produce the added heat. I set a thermometer over the work area to keep
> the glass at 80-85 degrees.
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "David Shelton" <SBaircraft@yahoo.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 8:41 PM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Bubbles in windshield fairing
>
>
>>
>> Rob,
>>
>> You mentioned that it was cold there. Many resins get more viscous at
>> lower temperatures, making it more difficult to wet out the cloth. Make sure
>> you are working at the recommended temperature for your resin and work out
>> the bubbles with a stippling action of the brush.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286745#286745
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 QB Fuse & Wings For Sale - Ohio |
Hi,
I've been having problems (intermittent - the worst kind) with my phone
line. If trying to call, here is my cell phone number: 440-864-6097.
Ed Mueller
On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:21 PM, ehm6006 wrote:
>
> Finances force sale of RV10 Quickbuild wings and fuselage.
>
> $31,000.00. Delivery immediate.
>
> Like NEW from factory. Inventory done, NO work has been done on
> these. These were built in the original factory, not the new one
> that has seen some problems. Were originally shipped by Partain
> Trucking.
>
> Located in Grafton, Ohio (~25 miles southwest of Cleveland).
>
> Save at least $5,000.00.
>
> Vans Price: $36,135.00 + Crating($1,000.00) + Freight. Delivery 3-4
> months.
>
>
> Ed Mueller
> Grafton, OH
> 440-458-6006
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286298#286298
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Bubbles in windshield fairing |
If your working in cooler environments, keep your resin warm before you mix it.
I find this helps alot.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286879#286879
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