Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:22 AM - Dimple die (Russell Shavitz)
2. 07:59 AM - Re: Dimple die (Lew Gallagher)
3. 08:26 AM - Re: Dimple die (Ron B.)
4. 08:32 AM - Re: Dimple die (Rick Lark)
5. 08:57 AM - Re: Dimple die (Linn Walters)
6. 09:05 AM - Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
7. 09:55 AM - Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? (Linn Walters)
8. 11:04 AM - Re: Dimple die (Jim Berry)
9. 11:19 AM - Re: Dimple die (Russell Shavitz)
10. 11:49 AM - Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? (Dave Leikam)
11. 12:13 PM - Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? (Marcus Cooper)
12. 04:03 PM - Re: Dimple die (Rick Lark)
13. 04:39 PM - Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? (John Gonzalez)
14. 05:16 PM - Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? (Lew Gallagher)
15. 06:01 PM - Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? (Jack Phillips)
Message 1
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I have decided to install Click Bond nut plates in all my fiberglass tips. When
dimpled my skins on the rudder the inner rib interferes with the dimpling process
and leaves a line. Does anyone know if I can modify the process or the dimple
die?
Russell Shavitz
Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
office: 847-678-1000
cell: 847-417-6622
www.shavitz.com
Message 2
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Hey Russell,
Whew, building issues!
I'm not sure about your exact application, but we ground a flat on the dimple die
so that it would fit in tight places -- didn't change the dimple at all and
fit much better in tight places.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287351#287351
Message 3
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I did the same.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287357#287357
Message 4
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Hey Russell
I'd like to use the click bonds as well. Any idea how many you will use for
all the tips???
With regards to the dimple dies, I ground off an edge on one dimple die set
to use for tight spots (made a big difference). I bought a few extra sets
when I initially bought my building tools (never can have enough tools).
Rick Lark
#40956
Southampton, Ont
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Shavitz" <rashvac@earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 10:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Dimple die
>
> I have decided to install Click Bond nut plates in all my fiberglass tips.
> When dimpled my skins on the rudder the inner rib interferes with the
> dimpling process and leaves a line. Does anyone know if I can modify the
> process or the dimple die?
>
> Russell Shavitz
> Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
> 4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
> office: 847-678-1000
> cell: 847-417-6622
> www.shavitz.com
>
>
>
Message 5
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This thread is interesting. I'm leaning toward the hinge mount method.
I've dealt with screws in cowlings and tips before and never cared for
them. If you entertained the thought of using hinges and ruled them
out, I'd be interested in knowing.
Linn
Rick Lark wrote:
>
> Hey Russell
>
> I'd like to use the click bonds as well. Any idea how many you will use
> for all the tips???
>
> With regards to the dimple dies, I ground off an edge on one dimple die
> set to use for tight spots (made a big difference). I bought a few
> extra sets when I initially bought my building tools (never can have
> enough tools).
>
> Rick Lark
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Russell Shavitz"
> <rashvac@earthlink.net>
> To: "RV10-List Digest Server" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 10:19 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Dimple die
>
>
>>
>> I have decided to install Click Bond nut plates in all my fiberglass
>> tips. When dimpled my skins on the rudder the inner rib interferes
>> with the dimpling process and leaves a line. Does anyone know if I
>> can modify the process or the dimple die?
>>
>> Russell Shavitz
>> Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
>> 4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
>> office: 847-678-1000
>> cell: 847-417-6622
>> www.shavitz.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? |
I'm planning to glass in the windscreen in the next 48 hours or so. The
top is glued in and I'm laying out the FG work. Have tried to research
the task in the archives and in Kitplanes. Basically planning to follow
the plans with the following ideas:
- Will cut strips on bias versus parallel to the weave so they drape easier
- Planning to use black dye in both the micro and the first layers of glass
- Will fan out the end of the strip to avoid a lump at the corners
- Taping off the edges with 2 layers of electrical tape per the plans
- Will try laying the dry cloth into resin painted on the surface versus
a wet lay-up - but will be prepared to go the other way if it feels better
-Planning to do one extended layup - cool shop, slow hardener. If the
first sections start to set, it shouldn't be a problem
- Will finish with peel ply
This will be a 1 man job just because it feels OK. My rivet
partner/spouse is available but don't see the need for the hands. Ended
up Weld-on-ing the top edge one handed and that went well.
Any thoughts, advice, guidance or criticism welcome.
Thanks to Dave Saylor and others for the freely shared knowledge and
experience.
Bill "thinking that the last major fab job is the wheel pants followed
by many months of finish work" Watson
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? |
Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I'm planning to glass in the windscreen in the next 48 hours or so. The
> top is glued in and I'm laying out the FG work. Have tried to research
> the task in the archives and in Kitplanes. Basically planning to follow
> the plans with the following ideas:
> - Will cut strips on bias versus parallel to the weave so they drape easier
Good move.
> - Planning to use black dye in both the micro and the first layers of glass
Not necessary. I plan on painting the 'glareshield' black before
putting the windshield on. Contemplating painting a black stripe on the
inside of WS just to make the edge 'disappear'. Maybe I can get some
comments on that.
> - Will fan out the end of the strip to avoid a lump at the corners
You can also shorten the layups to get rid of the bulge.
> - Taping off the edges with 2 layers of electrical tape per the plans.
I haven't got that far, so I guess the tape is the boundary of the
layup? If so, wax the tape too.
> - Will try laying the dry cloth into resin painted on the surface versus
> a wet lay-up - but will be prepared to go the other way if it feels better
It will be better with a wet layup. Sandwich the cloth and the resin
betwen two layers of plastic film, and use a squeegee to move the resin
around in the cloth and squeegee the excess resin out of the cloth. Put
one layer on the airplane and scoop the excess resin to be used in the
next layer. I use the slow hardener too, to give the resin more working
time.
> -Planning to do one extended layup - cool shop, slow hardener. If the
> first sections start to set, it shouldn't be a problem
I agree .... I'd mark the center of the WS and the cloth to make it
easier to align ..... and I wouldn't do it by myself. At least one
other set of hands to help put the layups on the plane and even another
person to do resin mixing and wetting of the next layer.
> - Will finish with peel ply
Excellent choice. Use short pieces precut like the layups since peel
ply doesn't like compound curves. OK to overlap the peel ply .... it'll
leave a small ridge and some fibers will get caught in the resin, but
better than sanding everything the whole thing a lot!
>
> This will be a 1 man job just because it feels OK. My rivet
> partner/spouse is available but don't see the need for the hands. Ended
> up Weld-on-ing the top edge one handed and that went well.
Trust me, you don't want to get started only to find that there's things
you haven't thought of and you don't have the time to take care of them.
I wouldn't do it by myself, and I have a fair amount of FG experience.
>
> Any thoughts, advice, guidance or criticism welcome.
MHO above .... YMMV. Let us know how it turns out .... we can always
learn from those that went before us.
>
> Thanks to Dave Saylor and others for the freely shared knowledge and
> experience.
>
> Bill "thinking that the last major fab job is the wheel pants followed
> by many months of finish work" Watson
I think that's about accurate!!! Time spent now in prepping the
airplane prior to paint is worth 10X that later on.
Linn
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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Avery makes a small diameter female die that works well for confined spaces. If
you have a ridge at the rudder tip, I would just cover the rivet line with a
layer of fiberglass and make it disappear.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287380#287380
Message 9
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Rick
I count 110 holes for Click Bond 06P nut plates
Linn
The Flight Shop sent me samples and these are very simple to install, drill the
holes with
no.28, clean the glass, glue the nut plate, pull the nut plate through the hole
with the rubber
install fixture.
-----Original Message-----
>From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>Sent: Feb 20, 2010 10:57 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dimple die
>
>
>This thread is interesting. I'm leaning toward the hinge mount method.
> I've dealt with screws in cowlings and tips before and never cared for
>them. If you entertained the thought of using hinges and ruled them
>out, I'd be interested in knowing.
>Linn
>
>Rick Lark wrote:
>>
>> Hey Russell
>>
>> I'd like to use the click bonds as well. Any idea how many you will use
>> for all the tips???
>>
>> With regards to the dimple dies, I ground off an edge on one dimple die
>> set to use for tight spots (made a big difference). I bought a few
>> extra sets when I initially bought my building tools (never can have
>> enough tools).
>>
>> Rick Lark
>> #40956
>> Southampton, Ont
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Russell Shavitz"
>> <rashvac@earthlink.net>
>> To: "RV10-List Digest Server" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 10:19 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Dimple die
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I have decided to install Click Bond nut plates in all my fiberglass
>>> tips. When dimpled my skins on the rudder the inner rib interferes
>>> with the dimpling process and leaves a line. Does anyone know if I
>>> can modify the process or the dimple die?
>>>
>>> Russell Shavitz
>>> Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
>>> 4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
>>> office: 847-678-1000
>>> cell: 847-417-6622
>>> www.shavitz.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Russell Shavitz
Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
office: 847-678-1000
cell: 847-417-6622
www.shavitz.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? |
I just did this almost exactly as your plan. My shop was 60-65 F. I did it
by myself with no problem. I wet the first couple strips in a dish. I then
laid the rest of the glass strips on the surface then worked the resin in.
Worked fine. This is a pretty straight forward operation but a bit messy.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 11:03 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I'm planning to glass in the windscreen in the next 48 hours or so. The
> top is glued in and I'm laying out the FG work. Have tried to research
> the task in the archives and in Kitplanes. Basically planning to follow
> the plans with the following ideas:
> - Will cut strips on bias versus parallel to the weave so they drape
> easier
> - Planning to use black dye in both the micro and the first layers of
> glass
> - Will fan out the end of the strip to avoid a lump at the corners
> - Taping off the edges with 2 layers of electrical tape per the plans
> - Will try laying the dry cloth into resin painted on the surface versus a
> wet lay-up - but will be prepared to go the other way if it feels better
> -Planning to do one extended layup - cool shop, slow hardener. If the
> first sections start to set, it shouldn't be a problem
> - Will finish with peel ply
>
> This will be a 1 man job just because it feels OK. My rivet
> partner/spouse is available but don't see the need for the hands. Ended
> up Weld-on-ing the top edge one handed and that went well.
>
> Any thoughts, advice, guidance or criticism welcome.
>
> Thanks to Dave Saylor and others for the freely shared knowledge and
> experience.
>
> Bill "thinking that the last major fab job is the wheel pants followed by
> many months of finish work" Watson
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? |
Very similar to the process I used some time ago. I agree with dying the
resin black, painting/covering the panel cover is good too, but tinting the
glass makes it look a lot nicer from inside the windshield.
Recommend you see how well the dry layup options works for you and be
prepared to go with all wet layups. You don't want the layups in place to
be too wet or it will get messy and to get the new layer saturated with
resin without bubbles might take more work that you expect. Give it a shot
though, as you might have more control of the cloth going on. I also did
the whole thing in one sitting which makes it easier.
Peel ply is a great idea, I learned about that from my Q-2 long ago and it's
a real life saver.
Make sure you trim the edges along the electrical tape before it sets too
hard. Cuts pretty easy while setting up but I'd hate to take a grinder to
the fiberglass that close to the windshield which is probably what it would
take after curing.
Good luck, this is probably one of the last real challenges before
completion (last challenge, not necessarily last in time spent to go
unfortunately).
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?
Do not archive
I just did this almost exactly as your plan. My shop was 60-65 F. I did it
by myself with no problem. I wet the first couple strips in a dish. I then
laid the rest of the glass strips on the surface then worked the resin in.
Worked fine. This is a pretty straight forward operation but a bit messy.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 11:03 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I'm planning to glass in the windscreen in the next 48 hours or so. The
> top is glued in and I'm laying out the FG work. Have tried to research
> the task in the archives and in Kitplanes. Basically planning to follow
> the plans with the following ideas:
> - Will cut strips on bias versus parallel to the weave so they drape
> easier
> - Planning to use black dye in both the micro and the first layers of
> glass
> - Will fan out the end of the strip to avoid a lump at the corners
> - Taping off the edges with 2 layers of electrical tape per the plans
> - Will try laying the dry cloth into resin painted on the surface versus a
> wet lay-up - but will be prepared to go the other way if it feels better
> -Planning to do one extended layup - cool shop, slow hardener. If the
> first sections start to set, it shouldn't be a problem
> - Will finish with peel ply
>
> This will be a 1 man job just because it feels OK. My rivet
> partner/spouse is available but don't see the need for the hands. Ended
> up Weld-on-ing the top edge one handed and that went well.
>
> Any thoughts, advice, guidance or criticism welcome.
>
> Thanks to Dave Saylor and others for the freely shared knowledge and
> experience.
>
> Bill "thinking that the last major fab job is the wheel pants followed by
> many months of finish work" Watson
>
>
>
Message 12
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Great, Thx Russell. I'm assuming that total is for all the tip fairings,
and not things like the wheel and wing-fuselage fairings?I had a good talk
and demonstration with one of their people at Airventure last year. Neat
product.
Linn, I hadn't even thought of using a hinge. Guess I'm so used to type
certified aircraft I never considered it. I will probably now wait until I
have another look at OSH this year to decide (I'm only working on the HS at
present). Thx for making me think. (actually kinda hurts) ;-)
Rick
#40956
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Shavitz" <rashvac@earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 2:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dimple die
>
> Rick
>
> I count 110 holes for Click Bond 06P nut plates
>
> Linn
>
> The Flight Shop sent me samples and these are very simple to install,
> drill the holes with
> no.28, clean the glass, glue the nut plate, pull the nut plate through the
> hole with the rubber
> install fixture.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>>Sent: Feb 20, 2010 10:57 AM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dimple die
>>
>>
>>This thread is interesting. I'm leaning toward the hinge mount method.
>> I've dealt with screws in cowlings and tips before and never cared for
>>them. If you entertained the thought of using hinges and ruled them
>>out, I'd be interested in knowing.
>>Linn
>>
>>Rick Lark wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey Russell
>>>
>>> I'd like to use the click bonds as well. Any idea how many you will use
>>> for all the tips???
>>>
>>> With regards to the dimple dies, I ground off an edge on one dimple die
>>> set to use for tight spots (made a big difference). I bought a few
>>> extra sets when I initially bought my building tools (never can have
>>> enough tools).
>>>
>>> Rick Lark
>>> #40956
>>> Southampton, Ont
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Russell Shavitz"
>>> <rashvac@earthlink.net>
>>> To: "RV10-List Digest Server" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 10:19 AM
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Dimple die
>>>
>>>
>>>> <rashvac@earthlink.net>
>>>>
>>>> I have decided to install Click Bond nut plates in all my fiberglass
>>>> tips. When dimpled my skins on the rudder the inner rib interferes
>>>> with the dimpling process and leaves a line. Does anyone know if I
>>>> can modify the process or the dimple die?
>>>>
>>>> Russell Shavitz
>>>> Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
>>>> 4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
>>>> office: 847-678-1000
>>>> cell: 847-417-6622
>>>> www.shavitz.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Russell Shavitz
> Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
> 4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
> office: 847-678-1000
> cell: 847-417-6622
> www.shavitz.com
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? |
Good luck=2C this is probably one of the last real challenges before
completion (last challenge=2C not necessarily last in time spent to go
unfortunately).
Wishful thinking!
> From: coop85@verizon.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?
> Date: Sat=2C 20 Feb 2010 15:12:27 -0500
>
>
> Very similar to the process I used some time ago. I agree with dying the
> resin black=2C painting/covering the panel cover is good too=2C but tinti
ng the
> glass makes it look a lot nicer from inside the windshield.
>
> Recommend you see how well the dry layup options works for you and be
> prepared to go with all wet layups. You don't want the layups in place to
> be too wet or it will get messy and to get the new layer saturated with
> resin without bubbles might take more work that you expect. Give it a sho
t
> though=2C as you might have more control of the cloth going on. I also di
d
> the whole thing in one sitting which makes it easier.
>
> Peel ply is a great idea=2C I learned about that from my Q-2 long ago and
it's
> a real life saver.
>
> Make sure you trim the edges along the electrical tape before it sets too
> hard. Cuts pretty easy while setting up but I'd hate to take a grinder to
> the fiberglass that close to the windshield which is probably what it wou
ld
> take after curing.
>
> Good luck=2C this is probably one of the last real challenges before
> completion (last challenge=2C not necessarily last in time spent to go
> unfortunately).
>
> Marcus
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
> Sent: Saturday=2C February 20=2C 2010 2:49 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?
> Do not archive
>
> I just did this almost exactly as your plan. My shop was 60-65 F. I did i
t
>
> by myself with no problem. I wet the first couple strips in a dish. I the
n
>
> laid the rest of the glass strips on the surface then worked the resin in
.
> Worked fine. This is a pretty straight forward operation but a bit messy.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA
> Muskego=2C WI
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday=2C February 20=2C 2010 11:03 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?
>
>
> > <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> >
> > I'm planning to glass in the windscreen in the next 48 hours or so. The
> > top is glued in and I'm laying out the FG work. Have tried to research
> > the task in the archives and in Kitplanes. Basically planning to follow
> > the plans with the following ideas:
> > - Will cut strips on bias versus parallel to the weave so they drape
> > easier
> > - Planning to use black dye in both the micro and the first layers of
> > glass
> > - Will fan out the end of the strip to avoid a lump at the corners
> > - Taping off the edges with 2 layers of electrical tape per the plans
> > - Will try laying the dry cloth into resin painted on the surface versu
s a
>
> > wet lay-up - but will be prepared to go the other way if it feels bette
r
> > -Planning to do one extended layup - cool shop=2C slow hardener. If the
> > first sections start to set=2C it shouldn't be a problem
> > - Will finish with peel ply
> >
> > This will be a 1 man job just because it feels OK. My rivet
> > partner/spouse is available but don't see the need for the hands. Ended
> > up Weld-on-ing the top edge one handed and that went well.
> >
> > Any thoughts=2C advice=2C guidance or criticism welcome.
> >
> > Thanks to Dave Saylor and others for the freely shared knowledge and
> > experience.
> >
> > Bill "thinking that the last major fab job is the wheel pants followed
by
> > many months of finish work" Watson
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? |
Hey Bill "way overthinking but doing it right" Watson,
I just cut the strips, did the toner/black thing on the first layer, soaked them
one at a time, and laid them up. Really no big deal -- you did the weld-on,
go for it!
I didn't brush the bubbles out, just wore disposable nitril gloves and hand smoothed
the layers out, patted them in place, whatever. You are going to have to
sand, then skim with resin/microbeads using a bondo spatula a few times to get
it perfect later anyway, so don't spend too much time obsessing over getting
the layers themselves perfect. Even the "humps" at the corners are easily ground
off and skimmed.
One thought, with the lower temps and slow hardener, you will probably get runs
down the outside vertical edges (where others have suggested you taper off the
layers so as to not get a hump). So tape, mask, etc. It is much easier to
keep the resin off than to get it off later. Also lay out drop cloths or newspaper
on the floor for the same reason. I scuffed the whole plane prior to priming,
so it was only a bit more sanding to get those couple of drips off --
but the next one, I'll know better.
Let me know when you get to the wheel pants -- I really like the way ours turned
out, splitting and glassing the lower fairing to the pants themselves.
Later, - Lew "started the engine for the first time Tues." Gallagher
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287418#287418
Message 15
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| Subject: | Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? |
Bill, if you need an extra set of hands, let me know. I'd be happy to work
on something besides what I'm doing right now (pro-sealing the fuel tanks).
Jack Phillips
#40610 Wings (fuel tanks)
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 12:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips?
Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> I'm planning to glass in the windscreen in the next 48 hours or so. The
> top is glued in and I'm laying out the FG work. Have tried to research
> the task in the archives and in Kitplanes. Basically planning to follow
> the plans with the following ideas:
> - Will cut strips on bias versus parallel to the weave so they drape
easier
Good move.
> - Planning to use black dye in both the micro and the first layers of
glass
Not necessary. I plan on painting the 'glareshield' black before
putting the windshield on. Contemplating painting a black stripe on the
inside of WS just to make the edge 'disappear'. Maybe I can get some
comments on that.
> - Will fan out the end of the strip to avoid a lump at the corners
You can also shorten the layups to get rid of the bulge.
> - Taping off the edges with 2 layers of electrical tape per the plans.
I haven't got that far, so I guess the tape is the boundary of the
layup? If so, wax the tape too.
> - Will try laying the dry cloth into resin painted on the surface versus
> a wet lay-up - but will be prepared to go the other way if it feels better
It will be better with a wet layup. Sandwich the cloth and the resin
betwen two layers of plastic film, and use a squeegee to move the resin
around in the cloth and squeegee the excess resin out of the cloth. Put
one layer on the airplane and scoop the excess resin to be used in the
next layer. I use the slow hardener too, to give the resin more working
time.
> -Planning to do one extended layup - cool shop, slow hardener. If the
> first sections start to set, it shouldn't be a problem
I agree .... I'd mark the center of the WS and the cloth to make it
easier to align ..... and I wouldn't do it by myself. At least one
other set of hands to help put the layups on the plane and even another
person to do resin mixing and wetting of the next layer.
> - Will finish with peel ply
Excellent choice. Use short pieces precut like the layups since peel
ply doesn't like compound curves. OK to overlap the peel ply .... it'll
leave a small ridge and some fibers will get caught in the resin, but
better than sanding everything the whole thing a lot!
>
> This will be a 1 man job just because it feels OK. My rivet
> partner/spouse is available but don't see the need for the hands. Ended
> up Weld-on-ing the top edge one handed and that went well.
Trust me, you don't want to get started only to find that there's things
you haven't thought of and you don't have the time to take care of them.
I wouldn't do it by myself, and I have a fair amount of FG experience.
>
> Any thoughts, advice, guidance or criticism welcome.
MHO above .... YMMV. Let us know how it turns out .... we can always
learn from those that went before us.
>
> Thanks to Dave Saylor and others for the freely shared knowledge and
> experience.
>
> Bill "thinking that the last major fab job is the wheel pants followed
> by many months of finish work" Watson
I think that's about accurate!!! Time spent now in prepping the
airplane prior to paint is worth 10X that later on.
Linn
>
>
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