Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:00 AM - Wheel Pants Query (Les Kearney)
2. 07:14 AM - Re: Dimple die (Russell Shavitz)
3. 07:35 AM - Re: Wheel Pants Query (John Gonzalez)
4. 08:13 AM - Re: Wheel Pants Query (g.combs)
5. 08:39 AM - Re: vibration in mains on roll out (Don McDonald)
6. 08:55 AM - Re: Vans conduit again (Kelly McMullen)
7. 09:50 AM - Re: Vans conduit again (AirMike)
8. 09:50 AM - gap needed for forward face of cowl from Spinner (Pascal)
9. 09:50 AM - Re: Wheel Pants Query (Miller John)
10. 10:12 AM - Re: Vans conduit again (Billy & Tami Britton)
11. 10:41 AM - QB Fuse & Wings For Sale PRICE REDUCTION (ehm6006)
12. 10:56 AM - Re: Vans conduit again (Perry, Phil)
13. 11:33 AM - Re: Vans conduit again (Perry, Phil)
14. 12:13 PM - Re: gap needed for forward face of cowl from Spinner (g.combs)
15. 12:24 PM - Re: gap needed for forward face of cowl from Spinner (Lew Gallagher)
16. 01:34 PM - Re: Wheel Pants Query (Dave Saylor)
17. 01:52 PM - Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
18. 06:14 PM - Re: Wheel Pants Query (David Maib)
19. 06:28 PM - Re: Wheel Pants Query (John Cox)
20. 07:52 PM - Baggage Door Seal Channel (Perry, Phil)
21. 08:02 PM - Re: Baggage Door Seal Channel (Seano)
22. 08:11 PM - Re: Baggage Door Seal Channel (Perry, Phil)
23. 08:28 PM - Re: Baggage Door Seal Channel (Seano)
24. 09:23 PM - Re: Baggage Door Seal Channel (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Wheel Pants Query |
Hi
As I install my nose wheel pant, a thought occurred to me. The plans have
nut plates (plate nuts?) installed to attach the mounting bracket. Given
that access to the interior is great, wouldn't glassing the attach brackets
in place be a better solution? Is there any need to remove this brackets
after assembly?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les
#40643
Message 2
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Rick
That is just for the tail I have not started the wing
-----Original Message-----
>From: Rick Lark <jrlark@bmts.com>
>Sent: Feb 20, 2010 6:02 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dimple die
>
>
>Great, Thx Russell. I'm assuming that total is for all the tip fairings,
>and not things like the wheel and wing-fuselage fairings?I had a good talk
>and demonstration with one of their people at Airventure last year. Neat
>product.
>
>Linn, I hadn't even thought of using a hinge. Guess I'm so used to type
>certified aircraft I never considered it. I will probably now wait until I
>have another look at OSH this year to decide (I'm only working on the HS at
>present). Thx for making me think. (actually kinda hurts) ;-)
> Rick
>#40956
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Russell Shavitz" <rashvac@earthlink.net>
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 2:19 PM
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dimple die
>
>
>>
>> Rick
>>
>> I count 110 holes for Click Bond 06P nut plates
>>
>> Linn
>>
>> The Flight Shop sent me samples and these are very simple to install,
>> drill the holes with
>> no.28, clean the glass, glue the nut plate, pull the nut plate through the
>> hole with the rubber
>> install fixture.
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>>From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>>>Sent: Feb 20, 2010 10:57 AM
>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dimple die
>>>
>>>
>>>This thread is interesting. I'm leaning toward the hinge mount method.
>>> I've dealt with screws in cowlings and tips before and never cared for
>>>them. If you entertained the thought of using hinges and ruled them
>>>out, I'd be interested in knowing.
>>>Linn
>>>
>>>Rick Lark wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hey Russell
>>>>
>>>> I'd like to use the click bonds as well. Any idea how many you will use
>>>> for all the tips???
>>>>
>>>> With regards to the dimple dies, I ground off an edge on one dimple die
>>>> set to use for tight spots (made a big difference). I bought a few
>>>> extra sets when I initially bought my building tools (never can have
>>>> enough tools).
>>>>
>>>> Rick Lark
>>>> #40956
>>>> Southampton, Ont
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Russell Shavitz"
>>>> <rashvac@earthlink.net>
>>>> To: "RV10-List Digest Server" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>> Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 10:19 AM
>>>> Subject: RV10-List: Dimple die
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> <rashvac@earthlink.net>
>>>>>
>>>>> I have decided to install Click Bond nut plates in all my fiberglass
>>>>> tips. When dimpled my skins on the rudder the inner rib interferes
>>>>> with the dimpling process and leaves a line. Does anyone know if I
>>>>> can modify the process or the dimple die?
>>>>>
>>>>> Russell Shavitz
>>>>> Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
>>>>> 4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
>>>>> office: 847-678-1000
>>>>> cell: 847-417-6622
>>>>> www.shavitz.com
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> Russell Shavitz
>> Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
>> 4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
>> office: 847-678-1000
>> cell: 847-417-6622
>> www.shavitz.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Russell Shavitz
Shavitz Heating & Air Conditioning
4849 Main Street, Skokie, IL 60077
office: 847-678-1000
cell: 847-417-6622
www.shavitz.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Wheel Pants Query |
If you crush that faring or suffer damage to it=2C it would be a lot easier
to repair if the bracket were removable.
From: kearney@shaw.ca
Subject: RV10-List: Wheel Pants Query
Hi
As I install my nose
wheel pant=2C a thought occurred to me. The plans have nut plates (plate
nuts?) installed to attach the mounting bracket. Given that
access to the interior is great=2C wouldn't glassing the attach brackets in
place
be a better solution? Is there any need to remove this brackets after
assembly?
Inquiring
minds need to know.
Les
#40643
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pants Query |
Do not glass in the bracket. What if the bracket
Cracks or fiber glass gets crunched? You will
Be wishing you followed the plans
Geoff
N829GW
Sent from my iPhone Geoff
On Feb 21, 2010, at 9:58 AM, "Les Kearney" <kearney@shaw.ca> wrote:
> Hi
>
> As I install my nose wheel pant, a thought occurred to me. The plans
> have nut plates (plate nuts?) installed to attach the mounting
> bracket. Given that access to the interior is great, wouldn't
> glassing the attach brackets in place be a better solution? Is there
> any need to remove this brackets after assembly?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know.
>
> Les
> #40643
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | vibration in mains on roll out |
Just like the a lot of you, I ended up with a vibration that only showed it
self around 40mph... takeoff or landing.=C2- This last week I installed a
ir stop type tubes and Goodyear FC3's on the mains... but only after balanc
ing them.=C2- First flight was UNBELIEVABLE,,, not a bit a movement... so
much nicer.... but the friend flying with me, says "but what about the lan
ding".=C2- Well the landing was also perfect.... Can't tell you how much
nicer that is.... So anyway, that worked for me.... hope it continues as th
e tires age.
Don McDonald
=C2-
Rick and Deems, see ya soon, we're leaving in the morning.
--- On Mon, 2/15/10, Rick <ricksked@cox.net> wrote:
From: Rick <ricksked@cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: vibration in mains on roll out
Mine came on progressively, hold the nose up till the tail stops flying, ro
ll out about 20 mph and hit the brakesBRBRBRBRBRBRBRBrele
ase the brakes.stops instantly. I=99m leaning towards possib
le brake chatter/grab now, the intensity is never the same but the speed wh
ere I apply the brakes is usually pretty closeAnyone consider the
brake pads may be the problem? It seems more annoying than anything else bu
t with vibration comes wear at some part of the airframe. It only does it l
anding, I=99ve never had it that fast in a taxi to make it vibrate.
=C2-
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: vibration in mains on roll out
=C2-
Mine have shaked since day one and I have done quite a few things to try an
d fix it.=C2-
Here is my list of items I have tried.
1. Balance tires with wheel weights
2. New Flight Custom III tires
3. Tighten the wheel nut
4. Balanced wheel pants
5. Remove the wheel nuts and use the beads you put in the tubes that dynami
cally balance the tire
6. Remove Flight Custom III put a more rounded re-tread tire on
7. Made sure both wheels had toe-in between 0 and 1 degree.=C2- I had to
drill out the left main with a larger bolt (after talking with Van's) to ge
t .4 degrees of toe-in.
8. ??????
I have posted this before, but Van says that the wood on the gear has worke
d with RV-4's and 6's in the past but that seems like a weird fix.=C2- Th
e problem is the gear design.=C2- The round gear is the worst design but
was designed that way for cost.=C2-
I have thought about ordering a new set of gear legs but I really want some
one out there to make a titanium set with the proper shape.=C2- You could
add 50 more lbs to you useful load if we had titanium gear legs.
Not sure what I will try next, but I no longer worry about it and just let
them shake when I land.=C2- I am switching out my brake lines for a braid
ed line.
I will keep trying stuff and let you know when I find a fix.
=C2-
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
=C2-
=C2-
From: Wyatt Prunty <wprunty@sewanee.edu>
Sent: Tue, February 9, 2010 10:53:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: vibration in mains on roll out
I have written about this once before and have talked with the factory seve
ral times.=C2- I have rebalanced the tires, changed to new and better tir
es (Customs) and dynamically balanced those plus checked for true roundness
.=C2- I=C2-have balanced the wheel covers, have installed a new axel fo
r the nose, a new nose strut (which brought the nose up and did help), and
have installed a washer under the doenuts to raise the nose a bit more.=C2
- I also installed new doenuts at 300 hours, have gone back to flying wit
h 60lbs in the back if only one or two people are in the plane.=C2-=C2-
I=C2-land with full flaps, flare with a little power in and=C2-stick al
l the way back, (on final, the plane feels like a balloon, or the hand of G
od sustaining you), but after touch-down and just as the speed goes under 4
0mph on roll out the mains shutter.=C2- They shutter a lot if you apply t
he brakes, especially if you are rolling down hill when you apply the brake
s.=C2- They shutter none or very
little (now, after doing the above) if the day is calm enough for a full f
alp landing and you just hold the stick back and roll out.=C2- This seems
the be an issue with the angle from which=C2-weight rests on the mains,
and the change in that angle as the plane slows, also perhaps a loss of pre
ssure on the elevator, letting the nose sink a little more.=C2- (I have c
hecked the brakes repeatedly for wear and/or sticking and seen no signs of
that.) =C2-The whole thing reminds me=C2-of being on a train when the b
rakes are applied and your chest and head=C2-are thrown forward, minus=C2
-a few obvious differences . . . . Usually the train doesn't vibrate.
=C2-
I still have a second washer that I could install to get a little more up a
ttitude for the nose, which should retard dip in the nose, such dip seeming
to coincide with=C2-the onset of vibration.=C2- Otherwise I=C2-am ou
t of ideas, so write you guys.
=C2-
Question:=C2- Anyone else had vibration in the mains upon roll out and/or
braking?=C2-=C2-Given everything already done to address this vibratio
n, is raising the nose a bit more=C2-in fact=C2-the next step?=C2- Wi
sdoms welcomed.
=C2-
In all fairness I=C2-should add that this is the nicest flying plane I ha
ve encountered, though the RV 6-A=C2-is a complete=C2-angel too, and th
e=C2-6 I have flown has no vibration on roll out.=C2- Both planes, of c
ourse, have round, tube-like struts similar to what I have seen on some Ces
snas,=C2-dancing like Fred Astaire chasing Ginger Rogers down the runway.
=C2-
=C2-
Wyatt N814BW=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2-http://www.matronics.c
om/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution =C2-
=0A=0A=0A
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Vans conduit again |
After spending sometime yesterday trying to wrestle the Van's conduit
through 3/4" holes in side of fuselage over the carrythrough spar and
under the baggage floor, I think I might just like your suggested
method. Unless of course someone has a slick suggestion to feed the
conduit through the 3/4" holes without a LOT of wrestling. I'm getting
a bit old to enjoy wrestling.
Kelly
40866
On Wed, Feb 3, 2010 at 5:43 PM, <ricksked@cox.net> wrote:
>
> Even better, forgo the conduit and install 3/4" snap bushings and fabricate a
wiring harness with heat shrink "keepers" every two foot or so The harness can
be pulled if needed and you can install a few spare wires for peace of mind
for future use. I was helping a friend run his wing wiring the past few days and
I liked this method much better than the conduit that I used. If I would do
it again, which I am, this is much better IMHO.
>
> Rick S.
> N246RS
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Vans conduit again |
Not beautiful, but it works fine. I just drilled a #30 or #40 hole next to the
lightening holes (don't forget to debur) and ran the conduit through the lightening
holes. Then I ran a nylon zip tie to secure the Vans conduit. No opportunity
for chafe as it is well secured and cannot move. If you want to get A/R
you can slip a piece of silicone tape in there. Vans conduit is very tough and
chafe resistant. I had to go back and run an extra piece of conduit at the end
of construction to accommodate the wire that runs from the strobe unit in the
battery area to the right wing. Don't forget this wire. I like the idea of conduit
to prevent chafe. Had a lot of problems in a Piper Cherokee with wire chafe.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287502#287502
Message 8
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| Subject: | gap needed for forward face of cowl from Spinner |
On page 47-5 for the cowling fitting Step#2- mentions "Tape 1/8 inch
thick spacers to the forward face of the top cowl in at least three
locations"
I did this and I have slightly more than 1/8 gap now between my cowl and
the spinner. Does anyone have this gap per the plans? Any issues?
Thanks!
Pascal
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pants Query |
Only like when you damage the pant and have to repair it.....
grumpy
do not archive
On Feb 21, 2010, at 8:58 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi
>
> As I install my nose wheel pant, a thought occurred to me. The plans
> have nut plates (plate nuts?) installed to attach the mounting
> bracket. Given that access to the interior is great, wouldn't
> glassing the attach brackets in place be a better solution? Is there
> any need to remove this brackets after assembly?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know.
>
> Les
> #40643
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Vans conduit again |
I have to agree. I did get the conduit in the wings ran to both wingtips
but had I known before how much of a chore it was to do I would have just
used Ricks idea of the 3/4" snap bushings and heat shrink tubing.
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Vans conduit again
>
> After spending sometime yesterday trying to wrestle the Van's conduit
> through 3/4" holes in side of fuselage over the carrythrough spar and
> under the baggage floor, I think I might just like your suggested
> method. Unless of course someone has a slick suggestion to feed the
> conduit through the 3/4" holes without a LOT of wrestling. I'm getting
> a bit old to enjoy wrestling.
> Kelly
> 40866
>
> On Wed, Feb 3, 2010 at 5:43 PM, <ricksked@cox.net> wrote:
>>
>> Even better, forgo the conduit and install 3/4" snap bushings and
>> fabricate a wiring harness with heat shrink "keepers" every two foot or
>> so The harness can be pulled if needed and you can install a few spare
>> wires for peace of mind for future use. I was helping a friend run his
>> wing wiring the past few days and I liked this method much better than
>> the conduit that I used. If I would do it again, which I am, this is
>> much better IMHO.
>>
>> Rick S.
>> N246RS
>>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | QB Fuse & Wings For Sale PRICE REDUCTION |
Finances force sale of RV10 Quickbuild wings and fuselage.
PRICE REDUCTION:
$28,000.00 or Best Offer.
Delivery immediate.
Like NEW from factory. Inventory done, NO work has been done on these. These were
built in the original factory, not the new one that has seen some problems.
Were originally shipped by Partain Trucking.
Located in Grafton, Ohio (~25 miles southwest of Cleveland).
Save at least $8,000.00.
Vans Price: $36,135.00 + Crating($1,000.00) + Freight. Delivery 3-4 months.
Ed Mueller
Grafton, OH
440-458-6006 Home
440-864-6097 Cell Phone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287513#287513
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Vans conduit again |
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Vans conduit again |
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: gap needed for forward face of cowl from Spinner |
Make the gap a little bigger. 1/4 makes it
Easier to remove and install lower cowl.
Geoff
Sent from my iPhone Geoff
On Feb 21, 2010, at 12:47 PM, "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote:
> On page 47-5 for the cowling fitting Step#2- mentions "Tape 1/8 inch
> thick spacers to the forward face of the top cowl in at least three
> locations"
>
> I did this and I have slightly more than 1/8 gap now between my cowl
> and the spinner. Does anyone have this gap per the plans? Any issues?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Pascal
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: gap needed for forward face of cowl from Spinner |
Hey Pascal,
I just revisited this. I had the gap near perfect, cut and fit the cowling, etc.
Then read on this list about as the motor mounts age a bit, the engine sags
-- keep that in mind. I.e. a slightly bigger gap at bottom than top, would
be good.
Also, before we started it for the first time this week, the mechanic guy at the
hangar looked at the 1/8 gap between the spinner and cowl, and said it was almost
guaranteed that with the shaking of the engine on shut down the spinner
would probably eat into the cowl. It's way too late to try to move the cowl back
(already painted, fitting, moving camloc's, etc.) so instead, I used a cut
off wheel to trim the aft side of the spinner and mount to give me a full 1/4
gap -- much better, no worries about touching. I'll do a full 1/4 next time.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287531#287531
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pants Query |
We've replaced that bracket on a plane that had a nose wheel shimmy. It's a
pretty easy job to just unscrew it.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Sun, Feb 21, 2010 at 6:58 AM, Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca> wrote:
> Hi
>
> As I install my nose wheel pant, a thought occurred to me. The plans have
> nut plates (plate nuts?) installed to attach the mounting bracket. Given
> that access to the interior is great, wouldn't glassing the attach brackets
> in place be a better solution? Is there any need to remove this brackets
> after assembly?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know.
>
> Les
> #40643
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? |
Thanks Jack, with the Pro-seal left on your fingers I probably won't
need the black dye.
I'm still circling the shop enjoying the view (and the weather) and
haven't really commited to the lay up yet... if I had you come over I'd
probably get the job done so fast I wouldn't be able to enjoy the
procrastination.
But Thanks!
Bill
Jack Phillips wrote:
>
> Bill, if you need an extra set of hands, let me know. I'd be happy to work
> on something besides what I'm doing right now (pro-sealing the fuel tanks).
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610 Wings (fuel tanks)
> Raleigh, NC
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pants Query |
I had an FBO do some damage to my nose wheel pant and the brackets
needed to come off to repair the fiberglass. It is true that you
don't need to take the brackets off for normal removal and
installation of the nose wheel pant, but it was nice to be able to
disassemble it when needed.
David Maib
'40559
Flying
On Feb 21, 2010, at 9:58 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
Hi
As I install my nose wheel pant, a thought occurred to me. The plans
have nut plates (plate nuts?) installed to attach the mounting
bracket. Given that access to the interior is great, wouldn't
glassing the attach brackets in place be a better solution? Is there
any need to remove this brackets after assembly?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les
#40643
Message 19
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| Subject: | Wheel Pants Query |
Finished a Conditional Inspection on a 10 year old RV-6A two weeks ago.
3 hours of flying later, the owner/operator found a soft spot in a grass
runway/taxiway. The issue is not if it will crack, it will be WHEN it
cracks. The owner would never admit to deviation from the correct
taxiway/runway surface. It was just a fluke of nature - blame in on the
Wet Pacific Northwest and all the Canadian Winter Olympic weather
finding its way south to Callifornia.
The dual piece nose bowl impacted the nose strut fairing and the ground.
Over the last few years the accumulation of contaminates (drool) from
the lower engine cowl absorbed into the inside of the strut fairing
glass which led to premature failure of the glass/resin reinforcement
between the MS hinge and fairing. Few if any builders are sealing the
glass (with epoxy topcoat) from such a similar occurrence. The nose
bowl was repairable. The point of contact was the trailing edge of the
nose fairing which hit when the tire went into the pothole. So think
about a ground contact with your T.E. as you consider the mounting
system. The replacement parts kit was only $73 US. It took out
everything below the lower engine cowl. The owner will be helping
finance my RV-10 with the cost to build it better the second time, paint
to match it the first, and I will be sure it is post-modified (for
future contact between the nose wheel fairing and the strut fairing) for
that second sneaky pothole that jumps out at you along the aircraft's
future life. Another friend was taxiing a brand new PC-12 for demo
flight in the fog and rain. A distant cousin of the same pothole
family, different taxiway, different airport. Damn they can jump out at
you.
>From the mud, left on the nose fairing, I cannot guess what might have
happened with harder ground.
"Build it once, Fly it often, think of what it takes to maintain or
repair frequently".... be glad it's not a Certificated production
aircraft. MOT is as bad as our FAA.
That is our stories and we three are all sticking to them!
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 6:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Wheel Pants Query
Hi
As I install my nose wheel pant, a thought occurred to me. The plans
have nut plates (plate nuts?) installed to attach the mounting bracket.
Given that access to the interior is great, wouldn't glassing the attach
brackets in place be a better solution? Is there any need to remove this
brackets after assembly?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les
#40643
Message 20
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| Subject: | Baggage Door Seal Channel |
I'm riveting the nutplates to the F-1031 Baggage Door Seal Channel..
The part is .025 and calls for countersinking for flush AN426-AD3
rivets. This obviously blows out the hole and I have to think Vans is
aware of that since it's .025?
I obviously enlarged those holes to get flush rivet heads. Has anyone
else who's followed "the plans" experienced problems with the mfg heads
working through the material?
Also, any tricks to drive those rivets on the inside of the channel?
Thanks,
Phil
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Seal Channel |
I believe tim olsens site addressed this
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 21, 2010, at 20:51, "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com> wrote:
> I=99m riveting the nutplates to the F-1031 Baggage Door Seal
Channel..
>
>
> The part is .025 and calls for countersinking for flush AN426-AD3
> rivets. This obviously blows out the hole and I have to think Vans
> is aware of that since it=99s .025?
>
>
> I obviously enlarged those holes to get flush rivet heads. Has
> anyone else who=99s followed =9Cthe plans=9D
experienced problems
> with the mfg heads working through the material?
>
>
> Also, any tricks to drive those rivets on the inside of the channel?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Phil
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Seal Channel |
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Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Seal Channel |
It's amazing how quick you forget these steps. I thought I just did
this but can't remember how I did it. I ask friends of mine who built
rv-10's and when they say,"I can't remember" makes me think what the
hell? But know I realize how they feel.
Here? third of the way down on the right side picture??
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Perry, Phil
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 9:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Seal Channel
I checked over there but didn't see anything. I might have been
looking in the wrong sections though.
Phil
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: Seano <sean@braunandco.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com <rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sun Feb 21 20:01:32 2010
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Seal Channel
I believe tim olsens site addressed this
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 21, 2010, at 20:51, "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
wrote:
I=99m riveting the nutplates to the F-1031 Baggage Door Seal
Channel..
The part is .025 and calls for countersinking for flush AN426-AD3
rivets. This obviously blows out the hole and I have to think Vans is
aware of that since it=99s .025?
I obviously enlarged those holes to get flush rivet heads. Has
anyone else who=99s followed =9Cthe plans=9D
experienced problems with the mfg heads working through the material?
Also, any tricks to drive those rivets on the inside of the channel?
Thanks,
Phil
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD,=03g=EF=BD=EF=BD
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Seal Channel |
Could you point out where? I don't see it in the tips, nor where he
did the baggage door. It does seem strange to be countersinking skin
that thin.
On Sun, Feb 21, 2010 at 9:01 PM, Seano <sean@braunandco.com> wrote:
> I believe tim olsens site addressed this
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 21, 2010, at 20:51, "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com> wrote:
>
> Im riveting the nutplates to the F-1031 Baggage Door Seal Channel..
>
>
> The part is .025 and calls for countersinking for flush AN426-AD3 rivets.
> This obviously blows out the hole and I have to think Vans is aware of that
> since its .025?
>
>
> I obviously enlarged those holes to get flush rivet heads. Has anyone else
> whos followed the plans experienced problems with the mfg heads working
> through the material?
>
>
> Also, any tricks to drive those rivets on the inside of the channel?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Phil
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
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