Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:24 AM - Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? (Walt Fuller)
2. 04:54 AM - Re: Re: Static Discharge Wicks (Jesse Saint)
3. 05:31 AM - Re: Re: Static Discharge Wicks (Carl Froehlich)
4. 05:54 AM - Re: Re: Static Discharge Wicks (Linn Walters)
5. 06:55 AM - Re: Re: Static Discharge Wicks (Tim Olson)
6. 09:14 AM - Air traffic animation showing flights across the U.S. (Robin Marks)
7. 10:04 AM - How did you set these rivets (Bill and Tami Britton)
8. 10:23 AM - Re: How did you set these rivets (tsts4)
9. 10:47 AM - Re: Re: How did you set these rivets (Perry, Phil)
10. 11:05 AM - Re: How did you set these rivets (John Cox)
11. 11:05 AM - Re: Re: How did you set these rivets (Jeff Carpenter)
12. 11:23 AM - Re: How did you set these rivets (Steve Stella)
13. 03:54 PM - Re: Re: How did you set these rivets (Billy & Tami Britton)
14. 04:01 PM - Re: Re: How did you set these rivets (Bill and Tami Britton)
15. 04:45 PM - Re: Re: How did you set these rivets (Linn Walters)
16. 05:15 PM - Re: Re: How did you set these rivets (John Cumins)
17. 05:37 PM - pulled rivets (Rick Lark)
18. 06:04 PM - Re: Re: How did you set these rivets (Jeff Carpenter)
19. 06:04 PM - Re: Re: How did you set these rivets (Michael Kraus)
20. 06:14 PM - Re: Re: How did you set these rivets (Billy & Tami Britton)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Doing the windscreen - any last minutes tips? |
Get the wife to brush the strips as you're putting them on. Took us about an hour
and a half to do the layups. We put em on wet and hand smoothed. We too kept
the shop at around 60-65 degrees and did get some dripping along the vertical
sides. A little extra sanding for that. For sanding the final filler I cut a
wood block to a 7 inch radius which helped to maintain a nice smooth profile.
Good luck with the project!
Walt Fuller
#40584
finishing up the baffling
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287940#287940
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Static Discharge Wicks |
If I was selling wicks, I would recommend at least twice that many for
the -10!
Actually, I have never installed any and haven't noticed a great
amount of static in radios. Has anybody started without them &
noticed a change when they added them?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse@saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 24, 2010, at 12:41 AM, "mouser" <mouser@mouser.org> wrote:
>
> I am installing static wicks as I go. The Dayton-Granger people
> have published a document showing where they recommend installing
> wicks for the RV-10. Here is a copy: http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/dayton-granger-rv10.png
>
> They recommend two on each elevator, two on the rudder, and three on
> each wing. I bought one of the cheap wicks from skygeek but wasn't
> impressed with the quality, and went instead with the considerably
> more expensive (and very impressive build quality) DG16165 wicks
> (also from skygeek, $42 each, cheaper than spruce).
>
> Cheers,
> -Mouser
>
> RV-10 #40988 (tail cone)
> http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287936#287936
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Static Discharge Wicks |
For what it's worth, I don't have an wicks on my 8A and will not put any on
my 10. I've never had static noise. If you are experiencing noise in your
radio audio, especially a modern radio like an SL-30, recommend looking
elsewhere for the noise source. Some areas to look:
1. Verify connections. Mechanical vibration tends to be the root of many
electrical problems.
2. If you have two communications antennas, see if the problem exists on
both. If not, then look at the one with the problem. For example you can
wiggle the antenna BNC connector to see if you create noise. BNCs are an
easy fix.
3. If you are using an audio panel, turn it off (default mode) and see if
the noise goes away.
4. If you have two communication radio and the noise is in one only, then
look toward the antenna, antenna line, or even radio rack connectors.
4. Change headsets.
Just some quick thoughts.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 7:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static Discharge Wicks
If I was selling wicks, I would recommend at least twice that many for
the -10!
Actually, I have never installed any and haven't noticed a great
amount of static in radios. Has anybody started without them &
noticed a change when they added them?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse@saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
Sent from my iPhone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 9:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Static Discharge Wicks
I have been noticing some static in my radio (SL30) lately and I wonder if
the lack of any static wicks (I had several on my C182) on the RV10 might
contribute to radio interference. I would like to know if anyone on this
blog has installed static wicks? If you put them on - where were they
installed and how many? What their experience has been and which ones they
purchased. Spruce wants $52, but an outfit called Sky Geeks wants only
$13-15 for similar static wicks?
Since I am getting close to paint time - I'd appreciate input.
--------
OSH '10 or Bust
Q/B - testing phase 1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287913#287913
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Static Discharge Wicks |
You forgot headset jacks grounded to the airframe. They should be
isolated from the airframe and have their own dedicated ground back to
the intercom or audio panel.
Linn
Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> For what it's worth, I don't have an wicks on my 8A and will not put any on
> my 10. I've never had static noise. If you are experiencing noise in your
> radio audio, especially a modern radio like an SL-30, recommend looking
> elsewhere for the noise source. Some areas to look:
> 1. Verify connections. Mechanical vibration tends to be the root of many
> electrical problems.
> 2. If you have two communications antennas, see if the problem exists on
> both. If not, then look at the one with the problem. For example you can
> wiggle the antenna BNC connector to see if you create noise. BNCs are an
> easy fix.
> 3. If you are using an audio panel, turn it off (default mode) and see if
> the noise goes away.
> 4. If you have two communication radio and the noise is in one only, then
> look toward the antenna, antenna line, or even radio rack connectors.
> 4. Change headsets.
>
> Just some quick thoughts.
>
>
> Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 7:53 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static Discharge Wicks
>
>
> If I was selling wicks, I would recommend at least twice that many for
> the -10!
>
> Actually, I have never installed any and haven't noticed a great
> amount of static in radios. Has anybody started without them &
> noticed a change when they added them?
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> 352-427-0285
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
> Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 9:34 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Static Discharge Wicks
>
>
> I have been noticing some static in my radio (SL30) lately and I wonder if
> the lack of any static wicks (I had several on my C182) on the RV10 might
> contribute to radio interference. I would like to know if anyone on this
> blog has installed static wicks? If you put them on - where were they
> installed and how many? What their experience has been and which ones they
> purchased. Spruce wants $52, but an outfit called Sky Geeks wants only
> $13-15 for similar static wicks?
>
> Since I am getting close to paint time - I'd appreciate input.
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287913#287913
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Static Discharge Wicks |
I've picked up what I am pretty sure was P-static on a couple of
IFR flights in IMC. It's only been a couple flights that I
noticed it, but both times I was in the clouds. It came across
as a kind of a rushing water sound on the radios.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> If I was selling wicks, I would recommend at least twice that many for
> the -10!
>
> Actually, I have never installed any and haven't noticed a great amount
> of static in radios. Has anybody started without them & noticed a
> change when they added them?
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> 352-427-0285
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 24, 2010, at 12:41 AM, "mouser" <mouser@mouser.org> wrote:
>
>>
>> I am installing static wicks as I go. The Dayton-Granger people have
>> published a document showing where they recommend installing wicks for
>> the RV-10. Here is a copy:
>> http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/dayton-granger-rv10.png
>>
>> They recommend two on each elevator, two on the rudder, and three on
>> each wing. I bought one of the cheap wicks from skygeek but wasn't
>> impressed with the quality, and went instead with the considerably
>> more expensive (and very impressive build quality) DG16165 wicks (also
>> from skygeek, $42 each, cheaper than spruce).
>>
>> Cheers,
>> -Mouser
>>
>> RV-10 #40988 (tail cone)
>> http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287936#287936
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Air traffic animation showing flights across the U.S. |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9r3H4iHFZk&feature=popt02us0d
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9r3H4iHFZk&feature=popt02us0d>
Message 7
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| Subject: | How did you set these rivets |
These are on the top wing skin (section 16). Riveting the skin to the
rear spar flange on the inboard edge (where the rear spar reinforcement
fork and doubler plate are). As you can see, mine turned out less than
stellar. I'll drill them out and try again but thought I'd see if
anybody has any secrets. There isn't much room between the tail of the
rivet and the doubler plate to get a bucking bar on it square and I
don't have a squeezer head deep enough to reach over the skin edge.
Thanks in advance
Bill
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: How did you set these rivets |
Bill,
What shape is your bucking bar? There's no problem with resting the bar on the
heads of the 470s in order to keep it square. It also might help to use a partner
so that the bucker can focus 100% on keeping the bar square to the rivet.
While you're at it you might want to check your pressure as all of those rivets
look over-driven. 35-38psi is all you need for a 3-3 to 3-5 rivet. Also try
shortening your shooting duration to say just over a second, stop and see how
the rivet's setting. Better to under set and hit it again with a quick blurp
then to blast away. Don't worry about work hardening these small rivets.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287987#287987
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: How did you set these rivets |
Disclaimer - I haven't built my wings....
But you might be able to drill out the interfering rivets, then reset
them after the other one's are bucked??
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: tsts4 [mailto:tsts4@verizon.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 12:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: How did you set these rivets
Bill,
What shape is your bucking bar? There's no problem with resting the bar
on the heads of the 470s in order to keep it square. It also might help
to use a partner so that the bucker can focus 100% on keeping the bar
square to the rivet.
While you're at it you might want to check your pressure as all of those
rivets look over-driven. 35-38psi is all you need for a 3-3 to 3-5
rivet. Also try shortening your shooting duration to say just over a
second, stop and see how the rivet's setting. Better to under set and
hit it again with a quick blurp then to blast away. Don't worry about
work hardening these small rivets.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287987#287987
Message 10
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| Subject: | How did you set these rivets |
3M prop tape (Impact Tape) or in a pinch cheap electrician tape placed
on the side of the bucking bar which is resting on the 470 heads should
work nicely.
I would redrill and reset the toenailed bucked heads as you recommend.
Often, it is the bucking bar skipping off the rivet that causes the
imperfection shown in your picture. Use of a 2X instead of a 3X gun or
lower line pressure can help the outcome. Having a teaser trigger helps
with the rhythm as well.
Paul Grimstad #40450, found a 0.0625" foam with adhesive used by
journeyman electricians inside junction boxes which is the cat's meow.
He had a bigger sheet of it and it had little tabs which could be placed
on several sides of a bucking bar. The foam also damned some of the
vibration into the assistant's hand. Prop tape last a little longer.
Electricians tape has poor quality adhesive but they all provide a
cushion on those 470 heads.
John Cox
#40600
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Wed 2/24/2010 8:07 AM
Subject: RV10-List: How did you set these rivets
These are on the top wing skin (section 16). Riveting the skin to the
rear spar flange on the inboard edge (where the rear spar reinforcement
fork and doubler plate are). As you can see, mine turned out less than
stellar. I'll drill them out and try again but thought I'd see if
anybody has any secrets. There isn't much room between the tail of the
rivet and the doubler plate to get a bucking bar on it square and I
don't have a squeezer head deep enough to reach over the skin edge.
Thanks in advance
Bill
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: How did you set these rivets |
you can also run a piece of wide masking tape over the heads of the
470's up to the corner to keep the bucking bar that's resting on them
from mucking anything up.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
on the cusp of final install of the cabin top
On Feb 24, 2010, at 10:21 AM, tsts4 wrote:
>
> Bill,
> What shape is your bucking bar? There's no problem with resting the
> bar on the heads of the 470s in order to keep it square. It also
> might help to use a partner so that the bucker can focus 100% on
> keeping the bar square to the rivet.
>
> While you're at it you might want to check your pressure as all of
> those rivets look over-driven. 35-38psi is all you need for a 3-3
> to 3-5 rivet. Also try shortening your shooting duration to say
> just over a second, stop and see how the rivet's setting. Better to
> under set and hit it again with a quick blurp then to blast away.
> Don't worry about work hardening these small rivets.
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> 728TT (reserved)
> RV-10 Empacone, Wings
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287987#287987
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | How did you set these rivets |
I just laid the square shaped bucking bar on the 470's and that kept it
square to the rivet and the duct tape on the bucking bar protected the
rivets.
Steve Stella
#40654 Wings
N521RV reserved
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 11:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: How did you set these rivets
These are on the top wing skin (section 16). Riveting the skin to the rear
spar flange on the inboard edge (where the rear spar reinforcement fork and
doubler plate are). As you can see, mine turned out less than stellar.
I'll drill them out and try again but thought I'd see if anybody has any
secrets. There isn't much room between the tail of the rivet and the
doubler plate to get a bucking bar on it square and I don't have a squeezer
head deep enough to reach over the skin edge.
Thanks in advance
Bill
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: How did you set these rivets |
I guess I didn't get my point across in the original e-mail. The 470's
aren't the problem. The problem is that the tails of the AN426AD3's when
not driven are nearly below the surface of that doubler so they are about
impossible to get at. Compound that with the fact that they ARE NOT
perpendicular to the doubler plate (the flange on that rear spar is at an
angle to the doubler) makes them pretty tough to get at. Laying a bucking
bar flat on the 470's and driving the AD3's in the flange will just lay them
over.
Clear as mud?? I'll try to get a pic to explain.
Thanks,
Bill
--------------------------------------------------
From: "tsts4" <tsts4@verizon.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 12:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: How did you set these rivets
>
> Bill,
> What shape is your bucking bar? There's no problem with resting the bar
> on the heads of the 470s in order to keep it square. It also might help
> to use a partner so that the bucker can focus 100% on keeping the bar
> square to the rivet.
>
> While you're at it you might want to check your pressure as all of those
> rivets look over-driven. 35-38psi is all you need for a 3-3 to 3-5 rivet.
> Also try shortening your shooting duration to say just over a second, stop
> and see how the rivet's setting. Better to under set and hit it again
> with a quick blurp then to blast away. Don't worry about work hardening
> these small rivets.
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> 728TT (reserved)
> RV-10 Empacone, Wings
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287987#287987
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: How did you set these rivets |
The 470's weren't the problem. Problem is very little room to get to the
tails to buck the AD3's. Setting the bucking bar directly on the 470's
isn't the best way either because there is actually some angle to the AD3's.
See the attached pictures for a better description.
BTW: Sorry for the huge pictures I sent earlier. Reset the megs on my
camera to it's lowest setting. Maybe these won't take up as much space.
Do not archive
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Carpenter" <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: How did you set these rivets
>
> you can also run a piece of wide masking tape over the heads of the 470's
> up to the corner to keep the bucking bar that's resting on them from
> mucking anything up.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> on the cusp of final install of the cabin top
>
>
> On Feb 24, 2010, at 10:21 AM, tsts4 wrote:
>
>>
>> Bill,
>> What shape is your bucking bar? There's no problem with resting the bar
>> on the heads of the 470s in order to keep it square. It also might help
>> to use a partner so that the bucker can focus 100% on keeping the bar
>> square to the rivet.
>>
>> While you're at it you might want to check your pressure as all of those
>> rivets look over-driven. 35-38psi is all you need for a 3-3 to 3-5
>> rivet. Also try shortening your shooting duration to say just over a
>> second, stop and see how the rivet's setting. Better to under set and
>> hit it again with a quick blurp then to blast away. Don't worry about
>> work hardening these small rivets.
>>
>> --------
>> Todd Stovall
>> 728TT (reserved)
>> RV-10 Empacone, Wings
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287987#287987
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: How did you set these rivets |
I have a bucking bar just made for your application .... picture a soap
bar with a 'ledge' protruding from one of teh short edges.
Linn
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> The 470's weren't the problem. Problem is very little room to get to
> the tails to buck the AD3's. Setting the bucking bar directly on the
> 470's isn't the best way either because there is actually some angle to
> the AD3's. See the attached pictures for a better description.
>
> BTW: Sorry for the huge pictures I sent earlier. Reset the megs on my
> camera to it's lowest setting. Maybe these won't take up as much space.
>
> Do not archive
>
> Bill
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Carpenter"
> <jeff@westcottpress.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 1:02 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: How did you set these rivets
>
>
>>
>> you can also run a piece of wide masking tape over the heads of the
>> 470's up to the corner to keep the bucking bar that's resting on them
>> from mucking anything up.
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>> on the cusp of final install of the cabin top
>>
>>
>> On Feb 24, 2010, at 10:21 AM, tsts4 wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Bill,
>>> What shape is your bucking bar? There's no problem with resting the
>>> bar on the heads of the 470s in order to keep it square. It also
>>> might help to use a partner so that the bucker can focus 100% on
>>> keeping the bar square to the rivet.
>>>
>>> While you're at it you might want to check your pressure as all of
>>> those rivets look over-driven. 35-38psi is all you need for a 3-3
>>> to 3-5 rivet. Also try shortening your shooting duration to say
>>> just over a second, stop and see how the rivet's setting. Better to
>>> under set and hit it again with a quick blurp then to blast away.
>>> Don't worry about work hardening these small rivets.
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Todd Stovall
>>> 728TT (reserved)
>>> RV-10 Empacone, Wings
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287987#287987
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: How did you set these rivets |
They make a bar that will fit in their real nice. My tungsten bad has a end
that has a edge with a lip that will allow the bar to be canted at the angle
of the spar and skin what will fit between the rivet and the existing 470
rivet.
This bar makes riveting so simple just don't drop it or it will ding your
skins in a heartbeat. I am getting in the practice to lay carpet down on
all material being bucked so if I do drop it no damage is done.
John 40864
Emp assembly (finally done primering)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: How did you set these rivets
The 470's weren't the problem. Problem is very little room to get to the
tails to buck the AD3's. Setting the bucking bar directly on the 470's
isn't the best way either because there is actually some angle to the AD3's.
See the attached pictures for a better description.
BTW: Sorry for the huge pictures I sent earlier. Reset the megs on my
camera to it's lowest setting. Maybe these won't take up as much space.
Do not archive
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Carpenter" <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: How did you set these rivets
>
> you can also run a piece of wide masking tape over the heads of the 470's
> up to the corner to keep the bucking bar that's resting on them from
> mucking anything up.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> on the cusp of final install of the cabin top
>
>
> On Feb 24, 2010, at 10:21 AM, tsts4 wrote:
>
>>
>> Bill,
>> What shape is your bucking bar? There's no problem with resting the bar
>> on the heads of the 470s in order to keep it square. It also might help
>> to use a partner so that the bucker can focus 100% on keeping the bar
>> square to the rivet.
>>
>> While you're at it you might want to check your pressure as all of those
>> rivets look over-driven. 35-38psi is all you need for a 3-3 to 3-5
>> rivet. Also try shortening your shooting duration to say just over a
>> second, stop and see how the rivet's setting. Better to under set and
>> hit it again with a quick blurp then to blast away. Don't worry about
>> work hardening these small rivets.
>>
>> --------
>> Todd Stovall
>> 728TT (reserved)
>> RV-10 Empacone, Wings
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287987#287987
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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Hi all
I've been looking for a d=E9finitive description of the properties of
all the
various types of pull rivets. I've scoured the Standard Aircraft
Handbook,
Advisory Circular AC43.13, Vans builders guide and catalogue, ACS
catalogue
and even googled pull rivets. I can find descriptions of the various
types
but not the specific use of rivets that Vans lists on page 5-16 of the
builders guide.
Can anyone point me in the right direction??
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton,. Ont
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: How did you set these rivets |
You should be able to "free hand" an angled face bucking bar in that
spot without much of a problem. Use your thumb and forefinger to
square up the face to the surface... and tape off the bar where it
might bounce in to something you don't want to scratch.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Feb 24, 2010, at 3:54 PM, Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> The 470's weren't the problem. Problem is very little room to get
> to the tails to buck the AD3's. Setting the bucking bar directly on
> the 470's isn't the best way either because there is actually some
> angle to the AD3's. See the attached pictures for a better
> description.
>
> BTW: Sorry for the huge pictures I sent earlier. Reset the megs on
> my camera to it's lowest setting. Maybe these won't take up as much
> space.
>
> Do not archive
>
> Bill
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Carpenter" <jeff@westcottpress.com
> >
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 1:02 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: How did you set these rivets
>
>
>> >
>>
>> you can also run a piece of wide masking tape over the heads of
>> the 470's up to the corner to keep the bucking bar that's resting
>> on them from mucking anything up.
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>> on the cusp of final install of the cabin top
>>
>>
>> On Feb 24, 2010, at 10:21 AM, tsts4 wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Bill,
>>> What shape is your bucking bar? There's no problem with resting
>>> the bar on the heads of the 470s in order to keep it square. It
>>> also might help to use a partner so that the bucker can focus
>>> 100% on keeping the bar square to the rivet.
>>>
>>> While you're at it you might want to check your pressure as all
>>> of those rivets look over-driven. 35-38psi is all you need for a
>>> 3-3 to 3-5 rivet. Also try shortening your shooting duration to
>>> say just over a second, stop and see how the rivet's setting.
>>> Better to under set and hit it again with a quick blurp then to
>>> blast away. Don't worry about work hardening these small rivets.
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Todd Stovall
>>> 728TT (reserved)
>>> RV-10 Empacone, Wings
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287987#287987
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> <100_3841.JPG><100_3842.JPG>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: How did you set these rivets |
Can't you use a bucking bar with an angled face? Then you don't touch
the 470's and can adjust for the angle difference...
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 24, 2010, at 6:31 PM, "Billy & Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
wrote:
> >
>
> I guess I didn't get my point across in the original e-mail. The
> 470's aren't the problem. The problem is that the tails of the
> AN426AD3's when not driven are nearly below the surface of that
> doubler so they are about impossible to get at. Compound that with
> the fact that they ARE NOT perpendicular to the doubler plate (the
> flange on that rear spar is at an angle to the doubler) makes them
> pretty tough to get at. Laying a bucking bar flat on the 470's and
> driving the AD3's in the flange will just lay them over.
>
> Clear as mud?? I'll try to get a pic to explain.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "tsts4" <tsts4@verizon.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 12:21 PM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: How did you set these rivets
>
>>
>> Bill,
>> What shape is your bucking bar? There's no problem with resting
>> the bar on the heads of the 470s in order to keep it square. It
>> also might help to use a partner so that the bucker can focus 100%
>> on keeping the bar square to the rivet.
>>
>> While you're at it you might want to check your pressure as all of
>> those rivets look over-driven. 35-38psi is all you need for a 3-3
>> to 3-5 rivet. Also try shortening your shooting duration to say
>> just over a second, stop and see how the rivet's setting. Better
>> to under set and hit it again with a quick blurp then to blast
>> away. Don't worry about work hardening these small rivets.
>>
>> --------
>> Todd Stovall
>> 728TT (reserved)
>> RV-10 Empacone, Wings
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287987#287987
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: How did you set these rivets |
That looks exactly like what I need. Looks like I need to expand my
bucking bar selection.
Thanks guys.
Bill--Trying to get wings done between all the mistakes and
questions--Britton
RV-10
From: John Cumins
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 7:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: How did you set these rivets
They make a bar that will fit in their real nice. My tungsten bad has a
end that has a edge with a lip that will allow the bar to be canted at
the angle of the spar and skin what will fit between the rivet and the
existing 470 rivet.
This bar makes riveting so simple just don't drop it or it will ding
your skins in a heartbeat. I am getting in the practice to lay carpet
down on all material being bucked so if I do drop it no damage is done.
John 40864
Emp assembly (finally done primering)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: How did you set these rivets
The 470's weren't the problem. Problem is very little room to get to
the tails to buck the AD3's. Setting the bucking bar directly on the
470's isn't the best way either because there is actually some angle to
the AD3's.
See the attached pictures for a better description.
BTW: Sorry for the huge pictures I sent earlier. Reset the megs on my
camera to it's lowest setting. Maybe these won't take up as much space.
Do not archive
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Carpenter" <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: How did you set these rivets
<jeff@westcottpress.com>
>
> you can also run a piece of wide masking tape over the heads of the
470's
> up to the corner to keep the bucking bar that's resting on them from
> mucking anything up.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> on the cusp of final install of the cabin top
>
>
> On Feb 24, 2010, at 10:21 AM, tsts4 wrote:
>
>>
>> Bill,
>> What shape is your bucking bar? There's no problem with resting the
bar
>> on the heads of the 470s in order to keep it square. It also might
help
>> to use a partner so that the bucker can focus 100% on keeping the
bar
>> square to the rivet.
>>
>> While you're at it you might want to check your pressure as all of
those
>> rivets look over-driven. 35-38psi is all you need for a 3-3 to 3-5
>> rivet. Also try shortening your shooting duration to say just over
a
>> second, stop and see how the rivet's setting. Better to under set
and
>> hit it again with a quick blurp then to blast away. Don't worry
about
>> work hardening these small rivets.
>>
>> --------
>> Todd Stovall
>> 728TT (reserved)
>> RV-10 Empacone, Wings
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287987#287987
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
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