RV10-List Digest Archive

Fri 03/12/10


Total Messages Posted: 11



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:13 AM - Re: How much primer do I need to buy? (Kelly McMullen)
     2. 05:42 AM - Re: RV-10 QB Fuse & Wings For Sale - Ohio (Lew Gallagher)
     3. 06:51 AM - Re: Elevator tip angle (IMPORTANT) (rv10flyer)
     4. 07:04 AM - Re: Re: RV-10 QB Fuse & Wings For Sale - Ohio (Les Kearney)
     5. 07:33 AM - Re: Re: RV-10 QB Fuse & Wings For Sale - Ohio (Geoff Combs)
     6. 09:45 AM - Re: Re: Elevator tip angle (IMPORTANT) (John Gonzalez)
     7. 09:47 AM - Door Latch Pictures - Sean's Design (Scott Schmidt)
     8. 02:05 PM - Re: Door Latch Pictures - Sean's Design (John Cox)
     9. 04:48 PM - Section 42 - REAR SEAT BACKS WITH 60/40 SPLIT SEATS (Patrick Pulis)
    10. 05:00 PM - Re: Section 42 - REAR SEAT BACKS WITH 60/40 SPLIT SEATS (Pascal)
    11. 09:56 PM - Re: Section 42 - REAR SEAT BACKS WITH 60/40 SPLIT SEATS (Pascal)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:13:04 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: How much primer do I need to buy?
    From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>
    As Pascal mentioned there are many factors in deciding whether to prime or not, which primer assuming you do, and how much to prime. Since I live in the desert of AZ, I took a middle road. I want to avoid potential for galvanic corrosion, while having few worries about salt laden humidity of the coasts. I only sprayed the areas where metal joins together..the rivet lines....except for the bottom of tail cone which got full coverage. Because I bought a QB kit, which these days appears to have full primer application, my volume needs were not great, so I went with the ease of self etching rattle cans. I think I might have used 10 by now, and won't need much more. So consider whether you are doing the slow build or quick build in your quantity decision. On Thu, Mar 11, 2010 at 11:55 PM, Chris Colohan <rv10@colohan.com> wrote: > Note how I carefully didn't ask "what primer?" or "should I use primer?". I > just am asking about amounts others have used. :-) > I have my first pieces ready to rivet in my vertical stabilizer, and so > wanted to figure out what I was going to do before riveting them together. > (So, by "interior" I meant "things which are not the exterior". Apparently > I used the wrong word. Oops.) Sounds like 2 gallons will do me -- which is > good, since the stuff is expensive! > Thanks so much for your help! > Chris > Some photos of my work so far: > http://picasaweb.google.com/colohan/TailSection?authkey=Gv1sRgCK-Q2JfUgc73bw# > On Thu, Mar 11, 2010 at 9:59 PM, Pascal <rv10builder@verizon.net> wrote: >> >> Primer war.. oh boy. The good news is you decided to prime, there is more >> than just the interior, personally if given the choice I would do everything >> outside of the interior, specifically, the tailcone the inside of the wings, >> rudder, tail HS, etc.. so that means the bulk of the things you'll be doing >> are at the beginning and half way mark so unless it takes you a while,in my >> case a little over 2 years to complete all the kits and start the finish >> kit, which hasn't taken much, if any primer. I have 1/4 left of the 2nd >> gallon. So in my case, single coat complete parts mentioned above I used >> less than 2 gallons. >> A word of caution, be sure the primer wont cause more harm than none at >> all, I did it because I live on the coast and thought the salt air might be >> an issue and my work skills caused a whole bunch of scratches so it was an >> extra step, but in order for primer to grip you need to rough up the >> aluminum, which already has a protective layer. >> Call the Paint store and ask what the shelf life is for the primer, I >> think it was 1 year for the wash primer. My house paint primer has lasted 10 >> years without an issue when I repaint and do touch ups. Another option is go >> to the website and pull the MSDS, or product description it will tell you >> the lifeonce it has been opened. >> Best of success with the build. >> >> Pascal >> From: Chris Colohan >> Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 8:37 PM >> To: rv10-list@matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: How much primer do I need to buy? >> This weekend I plan on driving up to the closest store which carries >> P60G2, and they are quite a distance away from where I live. So I want to >> know how much I should buy, so I don't have to repeat the trip. >> So, two questions: >> a) how much primer have others used to prime the interior of their plane >> as they assembled it? More than 1 gallon? More than 5? >> b) if I try to stock up on enough primer to finish the plane -- how long >> does paint typically last before it goes bad? Is this a foolish strategy if >> I expect it will take me several years to finish? >> Thanks! >> Chris >> >> >> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c >> >> >> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> tp://forums.matronics.com >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:42:10 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: RV-10 QB Fuse & Wings For Sale - Ohio
    From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>
    Does anyone know the facts on whether the wings have to be matched from Van's to the main wing spar of the fuse, or will any wings fit any fuse? At one point, I understood that they had to be ordered together, but then maybe not. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Avionics in, engine started! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290099#290099


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:51:13 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Elevator tip angle (IMPORTANT)
    From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com>
    John, I am doing mine right now. I am glad you gave us some more details on the extra bonding surface area. Sometimes it is hard to tell with picture only. They look great. I just didn't want someone else to bond only to thin edge and foam. That is what this forum is all about. Safety first. Thanks for the nice reply. -------- Wayne Gillispie A&amp;P 5/93, PPC 10/08 Grayson, KY 40983 Ord complete kit 8/24/09 DB Schenker del 11/20/09 Started emp 12/01/09 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290103#290103


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:04:33 AM PST US
    From: "Les Kearney" <kearney@shaw.ca>
    Subject: Re: RV-10 QB Fuse & Wings For Sale - Ohio
    Hi Lew When I built my fuse (slo-build), I had to get the center sections as well. Given that I assembled all of this and then ordered QB wings a 18 months later, I can't see how they could have been matched before hand. The center section comes in two fuse wide sections that are bolted together when the front and back of the fuse are joined (see sct 28 of the plans). Cheers Les #40643 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: March-12-10 6:41 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 QB Fuse & Wings For Sale - Ohio Does anyone know the facts on whether the wings have to be matched from Van's to the main wing spar of the fuse, or will any wings fit any fuse? At one point, I understood that they had to be ordered together, but then maybe not. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Avionics in, engine started! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290099#290099


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:33:16 AM PST US
    From: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
    Subject: Re: RV-10 QB Fuse & Wings For Sale - Ohio
    The RV-10 QB wings and fuse do not need to be matched. They should all fit from one to the other. Geoff Geoff Combs President Aerosport Modeling & Design 8090 Howe Industrial Parkway Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110 614-834-5227p 614-834-5230f www.aerosportmodeling.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 9:22 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 QB Fuse & Wings For Sale - Ohio Hi Lew When I built my fuse (slo-build), I had to get the center sections as well. Given that I assembled all of this and then ordered QB wings a 18 months later, I can't see how they could have been matched before hand. The center section comes in two fuse wide sections that are bolted together when the front and back of the fuse are joined (see sct 28 of the plans). Cheers Les #40643 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: March-12-10 6:41 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 QB Fuse & Wings For Sale - Ohio Does anyone know the facts on whether the wings have to be matched from Van's to the main wing spar of the fuse, or will any wings fit any fuse? At one point, I understood that they had to be ordered together, but then maybe not. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Avionics in, engine started! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290099#290099


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:45:19 AM PST US
    From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: Elevator tip angle (IMPORTANT)
    Thank you for pointing that out=2C good job. > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Elevator tip angle (IMPORTANT) > From: wayne.gillispie@yahoo.com > Date: Fri=2C 12 Mar 2010 06:49:36 -0800 > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > > > John=2C > > I am doing mine right now. I am glad you gave us some more details on the extra bonding surface area. Sometimes it is hard to tell with picture only . They look great. I just didn't want someone else to bond only to thin edg e and foam. That is what this forum is all about. Safety first. Thanks for the nice reply. > > -------- > Wayne Gillispie > A&amp=3BP 5/93=2C PPC 10/08 > Grayson=2C KY > 40983 > Ord complete kit 8/24/09 > DB Schenker del 11/20/09 > Started emp 12/01/09 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290103#290103 > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 09:47:44 AM PST US
    From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Door Latch Pictures - Sean's Design
    I posted the pictures I had so far on VAF. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=55429 Scott Schmidt scottmschmidt@yahoo.com


    Message 8


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    Time: 02:05:27 PM PST US
    Subject: Door Latch Pictures - Sean's Design
    From: "John Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
    Your pictures are always an inspiration. John Cox From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 9:45 AM Subject: RV10-List: Door Latch Pictures - Sean's Design I posted the pictures I had so far on VAF. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=55429 Scott Schmidt scottmschmidt@yahoo.com


    Message 9


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    Time: 04:48:16 PM PST US
    From: Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly@yahoo.com.au>
    Subject: Section 42 - REAR SEAT BACKS WITH 60/40 SPLIT SEATS
    Could anyone who has installed the 60/40 split rear seats (e.g - from Custo m Aero, Flightline, etc) please tell me if they modified (i.e - cut the fla nge of the aluminium angle so that the seats sit flush onto the F-637A Seat back) F-637B-L &-R angles?=0A-=0AI don't think that the seats will seat f lush up against the F-637A Seatbacks unless the flanges of the angles are c ut?=0A-=0AYour feedback and thoughts would be appreciated please.=0A- =0AKind regards.=0A-=0APatrick Pulis=0ARV-10 #40299=0AAdelaide, South Aus tralia=0A=0A=0A


    Message 10


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    Time: 05:00:04 PM PST US
    From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Section 42 - REAR SEAT BACKS WITH 60/40 SPLIT SEATS
    From: Patrick Pulis Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 4:28 PM Subject: RV10-List: Section 42 - REAR SEAT BACKS WITH 60/40 SPLIT SEATS Could anyone who has installed the 60/40 split rear seats (e.g - from Custom Aero, Flightline, etc) please tell me if they modified (i.e - cut the flange of the aluminium angle so that the seats sit flush onto the F-637A Seatback) F-637B-L &-R angles? I don't think that the seats will seat flush up against the F-637A Seatbacks unless the flanges of the angles are cut? Your feedback and thoughts would be appreciated please. Kind regards. Patrick Pulis RV-10 #40299 Adelaide, South Australia


    Message 11


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    Time: 09:56:11 PM PST US
    From: "Pascal" <rv10builder@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Section 42 - REAR SEAT BACKS WITH 60/40 SPLIT SEATS
    I think Robin Marks had his done for him. I don't see why it wouldn't work. I built it myself and all it is an extension to what is already there , in my case a piece of .032 aluminum and angle. Fits as good as Vans designed it for the regular two seats aka flush onto the seatback.. Pascal From: Patrick Pulis Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 4:28 PM Subject: RV10-List: Section 42 - REAR SEAT BACKS WITH 60/40 SPLIT SEATS Could anyone who has installed the 60/40 split rear seats (e.g - from Custom Aero, Flightline, etc) please tell me if they modified (i.e - cut the flange of the aluminium angle so that the seats sit flush onto the F-637A Seatback) F-637B-L &-R angles? I don't think that the seats will seat flush up against the F-637A Seatbacks unless the flanges of the angles are cut? Your feedback and thoughts would be appreciated please. Kind regards. Patrick Pulis RV-10 #40299 Adelaide, South Australia




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